Procedure of boiler disassembly for cleaning and repair

To keep your home comfortable and save energy costs, it’s imperative to maintain the longevity and efficiency of your heating system. Regular boiler cleaning and repair is a crucial component of this upkeep. Boilers can develop mineral deposits, dirt, and debris buildup over time. If ignored, this can cause malfunctions and even worsen the boiler’s performance. We’ll take you step-by-step through the process of disassembling your boiler in this guide so you can clean and repair it thoroughly.

It’s crucial to stress the value of safety precautions before beginning the disassembly process. Boiler maintenance involves handling steam, hot water, and possibly dangerous parts. Prior to beginning any maintenance, make sure the boiler has cooled down completely. To avoid mishaps, remember to turn off the boiler’s power supply as well as any connected systems. It’s also strongly advised to wear the proper personal protection equipment, such as gloves and eye protection.

Being familiar with the boiler’s parts and layout is the first step in disassembling it. The design and configuration of boilers can vary, so it can be useful to refer to the manufacturer’s handbook or get advice from an experienced expert. Determine which parts of the boiler are essential, such as the heat exchanger, combustion chamber, burner assembly, and any pipes or valves that go with them.

You can start disassembling the boiler once you are comfortable with its parts. First, turn off the boiler’s water supply and empty the system of any leftover water. Usually, this entails finding the drain valve on the boiler and turning it open to let the water out. The internal components of the boiler may require removal of panels or access covers, depending on its design.

Now that the boiler is accessible and empty, you can begin disassembling the parts for cleaning and inspection. To start, take out the burner assembly. This part of the boiler is what makes the heat. This frequently entails removing the screws or bolts holding the burner in place and cutting the gas or oil supply lines. After removing the burner assembly, give it a thorough cleaning to guarantee optimum performance and look for any wear or damage, such as rust or corrosion.

The main control systems of flow water heaters

You should be familiar with the flow water heater’s construction and working principle before attempting any manual repairs. An efficient water heater’s primary components are:

• Heating element – heating element.
• Pressure switch.
• Temperature sensor.

The circuit must also include a button to turn on the device and change the water’s temperature (in more expensive models), as well as wires with distinct markings. Water heater manufacturers frequently incorporate new components into the standard control scheme.

Two control schemes for water heaters

The schematics for the various flow water heater models are shown above. It is evident that these water heaters have heating elements, to which electricity is supplied via the pressure switch, switch, and temperature control relay. In the scheme, both relays have a protective function that disconnects the network if any parameters are not within the acceptable range. The device’s operating power can be changed via the switch.

In addition, the device is controlled by an electronic board installed in the lower scheme. A safety disconnect device is included in both schemes.

There is a ground connection in addition to the phase and neutral conductors. With a screwdriver, you can wire the straightforward circuit by figuring out the incoming phase and zero.

Thermex control system for water heaters

There is essentially no distinction between the previous scheme and the one above. elements are arranged slightly differently, but the functionality is the same. Two heating elements enable the liquid to be heated more or less. Their operation is facilitated by a relay, to which the previously installed thermostat provides a signal.

A reading sensor that is linked to the relay is an extra component of this design. The heating elements may be turned on automatically.

How to disassemble a Thermex water heater

In Europe, Thermex is the top manufacturer of water heaters exclusively. Although this company’s water heaters break rarely, it is necessary to know how to disassemble them in order to repair and prevent future breakdowns.

It is essential to turn off the water supply and unplug the heater from the main supply before disassembling the boiler.

This company’s water heater should be disassembled in the following manner:

1. Cut off the water supply to the boiler. If the water heater is properly installed, a tap should be installed at the bottom of the water heater body to shut off the water supply.
2. Disconnecting the heater from the mains.
3. Carefully remove the protective cover with a straight screwdriver. If the lid is seated very tightly, it is necessary to pick up the edges of the lid in a circle. When removing the lid, it is important not to damage the enamel.
4. After removing the cover, check all contacts with an indicator or special equipment. On the device or indicator should not show that there is voltage.
5. Drain all the water from the drum. Note that in some situations it may be necessary to remove the heater from the wall.
6. Before disconnecting the wires from their contacts, it is necessary to fix the location of the wires on the phone. This is necessary for easy connection.
7. Unscrew the nuts that hold the thermostat and the thermostat one at a time. This unscrewing is necessary so that the residual water drains out gradually. After taking out the tenon and the thermostat they should be wiped with a dry cloth. And check the gaskets for wear.

The disassembly is now finished, and you can move on to the following stages. It is feasible to disassemble, clean, or repair, and then reassemble in the opposite order.

Features of water heaters

Prior to delving deeper into this matter, it is imperative to acquire comprehensive knowledge about the various types of water heaters, as each has unique characteristics pertaining to disassembly.

The following types can be applied to all heaters:

• water heater with a thermostat;
• economy water heater;
• medium-class boiler;
• flat tank water heaters.

You will require the following instruments and supplies in order to disassemble the boiler:

• wrench;
• bucket;
• rubber hose
• handle;
• magnesium anode.

The first step in disassembling any water heater is to drain the water. The hot and cold water valves must be closed in order to empty the tank of water.

After positioning a bucket beneath the boiler, unscrew the cold water supply hose and the check valve.

Electric water heater schematic diagram.

After removing the unscrewed hose, replace it with a rubber hose, the end of which is lowered into a bucket.

Subsequently, turn on the kitchen faucet and the water heater’s control valve. And so the water starts to drain. The plug that stops the water from leaving the hose must be removed by blowing into it in order to determine whether all of the water has drained.

The thermostat and electrical component are then disconnected, and the wires are labeled with paper so that it will be simple to identify what goes where when the assembly is taking place. The boiler is placed beneath a container, and any leftover water is drained out by carefully unscrewing the screws on the heater’s metal cover.

It is very important to clean the inner surface of the tank and determine the presence of a magnesium anode inside the heater, outwardly resembling an electrode for welding. . After determining the thread diameter, you should purchase it from a specialized store if there is no such element or if it is less than 15 cm.

It is imperative to thoroughly clean the interior of the tank and ascertain whether a magnesium anode—which externally resembles a welding electrode—is present within the heater.

In the event that the element is either nonexistent or smaller than 15 cm, it needs to be acquired from a specialized retailer after the thread diameter has been established. After the magnesium anode is properly positioned, the boiler can be put together.

How the boiler works

Water heaters of the storage and flow types are different from one another. The first ones are made up of a big container with a heating element inside of it. The apparatus allows water to enter and is kept inside at a specific temperature.

The thermostat works with a temperature sensor to keep the temperature at the desired level. An insulating layer is placed over the storage tank’s body to stop heat energy losses.

To avoid malfunctions, it is essential to examine the water heater’s mechanism, technical specifications, and operating guidelines prior to using it.

Flow-through models operate in a distinct way. They don’t contain any water storage, but they do have a housing and a heating element. The instant water begins to flow through the appliance’s casing, it is turned on. The necessary temperature is swiftly reached by heating the liquid. Compared to storage models, these devices are more powerful and require more electricity. However, they are slightly simpler to install and are smaller in size.

Nevertheless, the accumulation model of the water heater is used in homes more frequently. Device malfunctions are similar across all kinds and are fixed in essentially the same ways.

Use a thermoregulator to program the water heater to run automatically. A temperature sensor provides information about the current state to this element. In response to incoming data, it turns the heating element on and off. This enables you to save energy in addition to assisting in maintaining the heater’s ideal temperature.

Additionally, the device keeps the water from overheating dangerously, which could result in a major mishap.

Re-sealing the connections is required if the boiler leaks near the water pipe connection, which is most likely the result of incorrect device installation.

Cold streams from the water mains gradually replace the hot water that has been drained from the tank. The heating element is typically turned on at this point. The boiler’s hot water may become chilly if it isn’t used for an extended period of time. Additionally, a temperature that is too low signals the heating element to turn on.

Types of heaters on the used heating element

Boilers with "dry" and "wet" heating elements are available. The heating element is in direct contact with water in the second variant, while it is housed in a special bulb in the first. Each model has some benefits. When it comes to boiler repair, the "dry" TEN is thought to be much simpler to replace than the "wet" one because all that needs to be done is take it out of the bulb and replace it with a new element.

If you have a wet heating element, you need to empty the tank of water completely before refilling it. Since "dry" heating elements are typically less effective than "wet" ones, boilers typically have two of these types of heating elements installed.

Although "dry" TEN is not as productive as "wet," replacing it is a little simpler because the water in the tank does not need to be drained.

Models with "wet" heating elements are more common because of the peculiarities of their operation, which cause "dry" heating elements to burn out more frequently and require replacement. It should be mentioned that while very dependable "dry" heating elements from the newest generation can be found in some modern boilers, the price of these units might be prohibitive.

However, the type of heating element has no effect on the amount of limescale formed during operation. However, while the scale settles directly on the surface in the "wet" element, it builds up on the protective bulb in the "dry" heating element.

Tools for disassembling and assembling water heaters

There are a few tools needed to disassemble the device, and since most people already have them at home, there won’t be any further expenses.

All of the tools should be ready and laid out in front of you before you begin disassembling the water heater. This way, you won’t be sidetracked by having to find a screwdriver when you need one.

List of required instruments:

• Indicator screwdriver.
• Phillips or flathead screwdriver (depending on the screws used to attach the parts).
• Allen wrench.
• Set of ring wrenches.
• Knife and scissors.
• Wadding.
• Microfiber cloth to wipe the insides and parts.

Disconnecting from the mains

Disconnecting the water heater from the electrical grid is a crucial and primary step in its disassembly. This must be done for the safety of everyone around the boiler dismantler as well as for everyone else, as there will be severe consequences in the event of an explosion.

Draining the water can short the wires and ignite a fire, so it’s crucial to use an indicator screwdriver to check for current in the wires even when the appliance is unplugged from the mains.

If you follow the detailed instructions included in a special book, disassembling, cleaning, and repairing the water heater won’t be difficult. In the event that the boiler’s documentation is lost, the disassembly algorithm can be found online in a number of formats, including written and demonstrative. Don’t forget, though, that some boiler models have internal systems that are too complicated for the average person to understand and can only be accessed by a specialist.

Cleaning and adjustment of the gas heater

The following procedures should be followed in order to clean a heater that uses gas to heat water:

1. Remove the water intake unit by unscrewing the screws and opening the tank.
2. Wash the filter of the equipment in cold tap water.
3. Check the membrane for flatness and smoothness.
4. Replace the diaphragm, if it is damaged. When disassembling it is necessary to memorize how the membrane is located
5. Put the spare parts in their places.
6. Close the equipment with the lid and tighten the screws.

When cleaning the filter, the gas and water supplies should be turned off. You can use any cleaning solution to get rid of the scale on this element.

It is advised to remove any scale buildup from the heat exchanger in addition to cleaning the filter. The following steps are taken to complete the operation:

1. Unwind the pipes at the inlet and outlet.
2. Remove the appliance from its mountings and place it upside down. The heat exchanger can be washed with a special cleaning agent
3. Half a liter of table vinegar is poured into a rubber bulb and poured into the heat exchanger.
4. After a couple of hours after exposure to vinegar, which dissolves all scale, the heat exchanger is rinsed and mounted in place.
5. Turn on the column by placing a container underneath it where the descaling will flow.
6. Open the faucet to drain the water from the column and close it only when the liquid becomes transparent.
7. Connect all remaining pipes to the equipment, replacing the gaskets and applying grease to the threads of the nuts.

Video: cleaning the gas heater

Resetting the gas and water supplies to their lowest values is part of adjusting the gas heater. Following this procedure, all electrical connections to the column can be made. After that, the apparatus is meant to be turned on:

1. Open the hot water faucet and measure the outlet temperature.
2. If the temperature is not higher than the temperature at the inlet of the heater by 25-26 degrees, then the gas knob should be turned to such a state to get the necessary result.
3. Adjust the hot water knob (the higher the liquid pressure, the lower the temperature will be). The gas consumption for heating water should be optimal

The majority of boiler malfunctions, which calls for cleaning and part replacement. In some extreme cases, the water heater might not be able to be repaired.

Repairing a boiler in case of a leak

Finding the source of the leak’s water supply is essential to identifying its cause. The tank has corroded if there is leakage from the side seam, under the top cover, or from the control board. It is required to remove the bottom cover if water starts to seep out of it. The gasket or the heating element is the source of the leak if it is close to the flange. If not, the tank is corroding.

If the heating element is cracked or the gasket is old, the black arrows point to potential leak locations. Red denotes an internal tank leak.

How to fix a boiler with a leaking gasket without assistance won’t present any issues. All that needs to be done is take out the heating element and replace it.

It is impossible to fix a boiler with an internal tank leak. Locating the documents on it and verifying the device’s warranty duration are essential. And you’ll need to buy a new water heater or get in touch with a service center. There are very few instances of tanks being successfully welded, and the device does not last very long after that.

Replacing the heating element

There are numerous indications that the heating element needs to be changed. For instance, the boiler might begin to painfully shock or stop heating the water. Draining the water and disassembling the boiler are the first steps in replacing the heating element. Next, remove the heating element’s cover and use a multimeter or tester to measure the heater’s resistance, which should range from 40 to 70 ohms, depending on the model. The heating element can be changed if the meter indicates a break.

If there is a squeak, you need to replace your heating element. Set the multimeter to the sound test mode and align its contacts with the heating element according to the diagram.

The insulation resistance between the boiler’s contacts and body (one probe on the body, one on one of the contacts) must be checked if the boiler struggles to operate on electricity. The measuring device should display an infinitely high resistance when in megohmmeter mode. A breakdown is indicated if it is in the tens or hundreds of ohms. The heating elements simply need to be replaced because they are beyond repair. Purchase a comparable model and install it in the boiler to accomplish this.

The thermostat may be the source of the issue if there is either extreme overheating or no heating at all. A multimeter should be used to check it and observe how it responds to heat. Press the control button and use a soldering iron or lighter to heat the thermostat if the boiler has a mechanical thermostat with a bimetallic plate. If the button returns to its original position after heating, the thermostat is functional. Simultaneously, an ordinary multimeter must be used to verify the integrity of its contacts.

Repairing leaks

Your boiler is probably leaking if you notice rust or water droplets on the heating block.

The most frequent malfunction is a leak. Water heater tanks eventually start to leak, even though they are coated to prevent corrosion. Because the seals on stainless steel tanks deteriorate over time, leaks are also a possibility. You can fix leaks at home, but you must first identify what causes them.

Disassembling the water heater is the first step in performing manual repair on your own. However, you must first use the procedures outlined on our website. The boiler needs to be emptied, disassembled, and inspected after that. Soldering with specialized fluxes and solders (available in hardware stores) for soldering steel will be required if the tank leaks in odd places or on welds. In order to accomplish this, sandpaper and a degreasing agent are used to clean the damaged area. You can then begin soldering.

It is highly likely that your boiler is gradually approaching the end of its useful life if the tank has begun to leak. Leaks are evidence that the tank’s metal has already deteriorated. Thus, if leaks resurface later, don’t be alarmed. If this is the case, we advise getting a new boiler instead of putting up with the problems with your old one.

Leaks may appear directly at the flanges. This indicates that the sealing gaskets need to be changed. Some service centers have them for sale, or you can order them online. Leaks are eliminated once the gasket is replaced. Nevertheless, it is advised that you take the tank out completely and check its integrity because it might be exhibiting other damage.

The control panel or board

Failure of the electronic panel or touch panel is also possible. The control panel or board is the source of the issue if diagnostics reveal that other components are operating as they should.

Crucial! These components require specific electronic knowledge, so you cannot repair them yourself. Additionally, only specialized service centers sell new boards.

Take the failed parts with you so that you can purchase the correct boiler parts. Due to the wide range of component varieties, purchasing the incorrect part is a possibility.

Disconnecting from the mains

How to Begin Dismantling an Ariston Water Heater

Electrical appliances must first be de-energized before any repairs are made.

The water heater is connected through a two-pole circuit breaker and needs to be turned off if it is powered by a different cable than the electric meter.

It is easy to remove the heater’s plug from an ordinary outlet if it is plugged in.

You can then proceed to safely disassemble the Ariston water heater:

1. First, the cover is unscrewed – it is secured with several screws.
2. Further, if there is a danger that during the subsequent assembly of something can be confused, it is desirable to photograph the existing position of the parts from several angles.
3. Next step: disconnection of 3 electric cables, 1 – phase, 2 – zero, 3 – ground. It is easy to do with a screwdriver.Since we have disconnected the first two wires from the thermostat and freed it, we can now pull it out of the tube with a little effort.
4. This is the end of all electrical procedures. You can start draining the water.

Electric flow water heaters

The arrangement of electric flow water heaters differs from that of storage water heaters. Because of the small tank and copper reservoir, there is no need for a magnesium anode, which saves even more space. A flow heater is protected to a minimum of two degrees:

1. A traditional thermostat controlling the water temperature.
2. A flow sensor that protects against switching on when there is no flow.

There are two stages that are identical to one another. If the thermostat probe is not in contact with the coil when you turn on an empty storage water heater, the unit will burn. Nevertheless, since the water intake is from above, this circumstance does not arise there.

The flow sensor keeps the coil from turning on when the head is low, so the appliance doesn’t heat the water.

Aspects of water heaters with flow:

1. In flow water heaters, ceramic spirals are used. When a part of the coating peels off, the differential circuit breaker is triggered.
2. The use of ceramic spirals in flow water heaters is economically advantageous: the efficiency is 98.5%, scale is formed in negligible quantities. Water heaters with ceramic coils are made non-disassembling.
3. Not all models are equipped with a removable heating element. Fixing a non-removable heating element involves opening the copper sheath, which is then rewelded or soldered back together.

Even though circuit breakers are used to connect electric flow water heaters, when the water supply is cut off, the fuse does not instantly cut off the heating. The load is held for a few minutes by a piece of wire, which lowers the current draw.

Center nut at 55

You can quickly dismantle a water heater tank that has a big hex nut at the bottom of the heating element, like the one in the picture below.

Disconnect the boiler from the water supply and mains first. Remember to turn off the cold water supply before unscrewing the flexible hoses. The water heater tank needs to be emptied after disconnecting, which is simple to accomplish with the help of this video instruction:

Appropriate water drainage

This is https://youtu.be/6IrIM1KH8RA After draining the water, you must remove the water heater housing’s bottom cover, which is typically secured with two self-tapping screws. This big nut and the thermostat, which must also be removed by unplugging its fitting terminals, are located beneath the cover. Now that the nut is free to be removed, use a hub wrench for number 55 or a #2 gas wrench, both of which are visible in the picture:

Turn the self-repairing heating element of the heater counterclockwise. Remove the storage boiler from the wall and flip it over so that it is easier to dismantle completely with your hands. Carefully remove the heating element by gently rocking it from side to side after the nut has been unscrewed.

It’s advised to place a bucket underneath the boiler during disassembly so that any leftover water, which may remain in the tank after it’s been drained, drains into the bucket rather than the floor. One more piece of advice: try using a hard, non-metallic object to clean the hole and the heating element itself slightly if the limescale is impeding your ability to remove the element.

Cleaning the heating element

Use crude tools, such as a metal brush or knife, to remove scale from the water heater’s TEN.

Have you noticed that your boiler now sounds like an electric kettle? Is it continuously using kilowatts of electricity to heat water improperly? All of it is the result of scale building up on the heating element’s surface. Because of its low thermal conductivity, heat is essentially not transferred from the heater to the water. Regarding the sound, it is the sound of the water within the scale’s thickness. That means we have to get rid of all the limescale here. Before beginning any boiler repair, we drain the water, take the water heater out of the wall, take out the TEN, and begin cleaning the boiler.

Multiple methods exist for cleaning the TEN from scale. The primary layer of scale is manually removed using a mechanical method while it is still wet. The remaining lime deposits are then carefully removed from the heating element using sandpaper in our hands. Consequently, we ought to receive a gleaming, spotless heating element.

The mechanical method calls for caution; in order to avoid creating needless holes in the heating element, it should be cleaned as thoroughly as possible. It is not required to bang the heating element up against objects because it can shatter into pieces.

Scale-softening or scale-dispersing special reagents are used in the chemical method. Hardware stores sell them, but before making your purchase, make sure you read customer reviews. Strong acids should be avoided as they have the potential to harm the heater’s metal.

Classification of faults

Let’s try to understand what specifically can go wrong with a water heater and how serious these breakdowns are before we talk about fixing this or that breakdown or fixing water heaters ourselves. It is possible to conditionally split all potential breakdowns into two groups.

Not critical

These are components that malfunction infrequently or whose failure has no impact on the water heater’s ability to function:

• Thermoregulator – a device that shows the temperature of water in the tank. Of course, a serviceable thermostat is a great help to the user, but if it fails, the device continues to function.
• Thermal insulation. Reduces heat loss. In addition, thermal insulation materials do not allow the water heater to expend energy to heat the air in the room.

Crucial! Thermal insulation is virtually impervious to failure, so there’s no reason to be concerned.

• Water supply pipes for cold and hot water. If necessary – they can be replaced without much difficulty.
• Outer shell. If it is not damaged intentionally, it will serve long enough. Most often the outer sheath is damaged during repair or installation if the appliance is accidentally dropped.
• Internal tank. Its working life directly depends on how regularly you change the magnesium anode, which protects metal parts from corrosion.

Critical

The water heater’s functionality is at risk due to these malfunctions. If malfunctioning signs are found, repair work needs to be initiated right away:

• TEN – it is this part that is responsible for heating water, so with a defective heating element the operation of the device is impossible in principle. Worn out heating element – the most common cause of poor water heating.
• Magnesium anode. If the thermostat is replaced regularly, the operating life of the boiler will be significantly extended.
• Thermostat. This part is responsible for heating the water to the set temperature value and making sure that the water heater shuts off in time.

Crucial! Different types of thermostats exist, including capillary, electronic, and rod models. Despite their dissimilar arrangements, they all serve the same purpose of measuring the water’s temperature and, if required, turning on or off the thermorelay. A thermostat is necessary for operation; therefore, if it breaks, it needs to be replaced right away.

• Gaskets for insulation. The gaskets must be replaced every time the boiler is serviced.

The main components of the boiler and the reasons why they may fail

Corrosion usually leads to the failure of the inner tank, whose walls can be as thick as 2 mm. The tank will last for many years if you have a high-quality Ariston and you replace the magnesium electrode when it’s time for preventive maintenance.

External protection:

• Thermal insulation – as a rule, there are no problems with it.
• Tubes, which are responsible for the arrival of cold water, as well as the output of hot water, usually do not need to be repaired.
• The outer shell of the tank, either plastic or metal, only fails when the boiler is dropped.

Thermoelements

The water heater element keeps working if the thermostatic regulating device or sensor malfunctions, but it is still impossible to pinpoint the precise temperature at which the water is heated.

The heating element, or TEN, needs to be replaced when it fails because of accumulated scale on the housing and contact surfaces. This raises the question of how to disassemble the "Ariston" water heater.

Crucial! It is sufficient to adhere to our guidelines and recommendations for routinely descale your water heater in order to avoid heater malfunctions.

Thermostats come in three different forms and are used to heat water on their own.

• Rod.
• Electronic.
• Capillary.

The relay that connects the heating element to the electrical circuitry is turned on or off by sensors in response to changes in the water’s temperature.

Internal protection

Magnesium electrode that resists corrosion: this component is incredibly close to the heating component. It serves to safeguard the body of the water heater. It doesn’t have any issues when it is periodically replaced. Usually, the device breaks down because different types of deposits build up on the contacts, which need to be changed.

The insulating gasket is an additional component of the Ariston water heater that offers both electrical and sealant protection. This gasket is situated where the tank’s body and the water heater directly touch the flange, which is reinforced with TEN, magnesium anode, and well.

Crucial! This gasket needs to be replaced on a regular basis because it may shrink otherwise, causing the boiler to leak.

Certain "Ariston" water heater models require an electronic control and control circuitry component in order for the unit to turn on.

The preventive work can begin once you have determined exactly what to watch out for. For this reason, and let’s learn how to manually disassemble the "Ariston" boiler.

Crucial! Find out which water heater is better if yours is beyond repair and you intend to purchase a new one.

How to disassemble a water heater with a heating element

Electric flow heater scheme.

This kind of boiler, which has a heating element fastened to the nuts, is reasonably priced. Typically, this unit lacks an external control gasket. Its unique feature is the hexagonal flange, which can be unscrewed using a standard gas wrench or a wrench for 55.

Thermostat-equipped water heater disassembly algorithm:

• disconnect the appliance from the mains, drain the water and remove the non-return valve, which will only hinder operation;
• The boiler cover is removed, which is screwed closer to the spigots;
• The thermostat is dismantled;
• under the water heater put a container into which will be drained the remains of dirt, water and scale;
• unscrew the flange counterclockwise (existing dirt and scale can complicate the work, so they are carefully scraped off with a wooden or plastic knife; as soon as the thread ends, the flange is carefully removed);
• in order to remove the heating element, remove the scale in the bends of the heating element and, carefully rocking left and right, pull out the lower part of the element.

How to dismantle a water heater (boiler) of the economy class Because the flange on economy-class water heaters is oval in shape, there are some unique aspects to the disassembly process of these units.

Steps involved in dismantling a water heater of low cost:

• the device is disconnected from the power supply, drain the water and, if necessary, unscrew the check valve;
• There are two screws near the drain and fill connections, which should be unscrewed and remove the cover of the water heater;
• a sharp downward movement removes the thermostat and gives access to the flange, which is attached to the body by a nut through a bar; once the nut is loosened, the flange can be removed.

How to take apart a mid-sized water heater The cost range for medium water heaters is medium. The appliance comes with flanges that are fastened straight to the neck with six bolts.

The steps involved in taking apart this water heater are as follows:

• disconnect the power supply to the device, drain the water and dismantle the check valve;
• to remove the cover, find the screws and unscrew them (the location of the screws may be different);
• The thermostat must be removed (depending on whether it is connected to the thermostat by a wire or inserted into it);
• Unscrew any necessary screws or nuts.

How to connect a flow water heater

When installing a water heater—or any other electrical appliance, for that matter—what is the first thing an electrician should look out for? Regarding the power consumption, that is correct. Any appliance will typically have this information on the back:.

Water heater flow rate Termex_back view

Greater, so that the qualities are visible to all:

Features of a Thermex flow water heater

Six kilowatts of electricity! The current is 27 amps, or 6000 W / 220 V. What does it signify? This device cannot be plugged into a socket; no other options are available.

It is common knowledge that a standard socket outlet has a maximum short-term theoretical capacity of 16 amps. This power is 16*220= 3.5 kW. And twice as much here.

A separate line that can supply a minimum of 6 kW of power is required for such an electric heating device; this is in accordance with the consumption of the entire house. As a result, in order to connect a flow heater, a separate cable and circuit breaker are needed. We require a cable with a four-square cross-section; my article contains more information on selecting a cross-section. A 2.5-square wire will heat up quickly.

Usually, a standard socket is used to connect storage heaters. Ultimately, their power usage seldom exceeds 3 kW.

The nominal value of the circuit breaker is also present; it is selected between the heater’s current and the wire’s current. In this instance, 32 amps is the ideal.

Establishing a trustworthy foundation is crucial. All appliances with metal components or those that come into contact with water are required by law to do this.

The ground wire’s cross-sectional area ought to match the phase supply wire’s, or slightly exceed it.

Generally speaking, it is ideal to connect the water heater via an RCD (differential automatic device). The RCD will cut off the electricity and prevent a tragedy from happening if there are any insulation issues or if live parts are accidentally touched.

Ariston water heater disassembly process

1. Disconnect the water heater from the mains.
2. Drain all the water from the tank through the drain cock and also the valve on the hot water connection.
3. Unscrew the thermostat from the terminals, then pull it out.
4. Remove the heating element heater – to do this, unscrew the bracket holding it, take the heater out of the socket, and do not forget to put a bucket to drain all the residual water.
5. For further and more comfortable disassembly of the boiler, remove it from its mountings and carefully lower it to the floor with the heater upside down.
6. Unscrew the flange and remove the gasket.
7. Clean the tank from accumulated scale – in most cases it accumulates at the bottom. This process is done manually, and after cleaning, the tank is rinsed out.
8. Inspect the magnesium electrode – if it is OK, proceed to check the heating element. Remove scale from it, as well as rust, of course, if it is present.
9. Check the integrity of the coil with a special tester. If it is damaged, purchase a new heating element and install it during the assembly of the water heater.
10. Inspect the gasket and, if it is dry, replace it with a new one.
11. If during the inspection of the flange you found any damage or noticed that it has rusted, then buy a new one in the store and then install it.

Crucial! Put the gadget together in the opposite order. Before turning on the unit, remember to make sure all fasteners and connections are secure to prevent leaks and other major issues.

Draining the water from the storage tank

Schematic for the heating element’s circuitry.

A shut-off valve is used to cut off the apartment’s cold water supply. It should be utilized if the boiler has a local valve that only cuts off the required portion of the apartment’s water supply.

Both the boiler’s hot water intake valve and the cold water supply check valve are closed.

The hot water extraction hose is not disconnected; instead, use an adjustable wrench to disconnect the cold water supply hose from the heater.

The boiler check valve has a rubber hose connected to it. The rubber hose’s other end is pointed toward the bathtub, Jacuzzi, and sink. It will be drained through with boiler water.

Both the hot water extraction valve and the boiler check valve are open. Open all of the hot water taps in the kitchen and bathroom that are attached to the heater.

Water is forced out of the boiler through the non-return valve as atmospheric pressure builds up in the storage tank. When the pressure in the tank rises, the water normally comes out of the boiler in multiple sections.

By blowing into the rubber hose on the return valve, you can determine if all of the water has been drained. There will be a distinctive gurgling sound if the tank is still filled with water.

It is possible that the water supply system’s pressure is insufficient to push all of the water out of the boiler. In this instance, the hot water extraction hose is taken off, and a compressor is used to increase the tank’s pressure via the hot water extraction tube.

Take note! The storage tank’s cold water supply pipe is positioned higher than the bottom wall. As a result, some water will still be in the heater and will only escape through the mounting hole of the panel that holds the heating element.

When disassembling the water heater further, this factor should be considered.

Return to the contents table

Cleaning and maintenance

By following the manufacturer’s instructions, the owner of the boiler can avoid a lot of issues. For instance, routine boiler maintenance, which includes an external inspection and cleaning procedure, is typically advised by the instructions. Generally speaking, the kind of heating element and how it operates determine the recommended maintenance intervals.

Cleaning "wet" heating elements once a year is advised, and cleaning "dry" ones at least twice a year. Irrespective of the kind of heating element, the device should have maintenance every six months if it is used under higher loads, like in a production or public setting.

Scale and debris build up within the boiler during operation; therefore, the apparatus needs to be cleaned on a regular basis to get rid of these impurities.

The warranty service may be impacted by maintenance procedures. Occasionally, the manufacturer notes in the documentation that the process should be completed by trained professionals rather than the device’s owner. It is preferable to adhere to the manufacturer’s instructions in this situation.

It’s not too hard to perform maintenance yourself. To accomplish this, unplug the boiler’s water and power supplies, and then empty the water from within. The heating element is then removed after the body is opened by loosening the fastening bolts. Scale and dirt are removed from the heater and the tank’s interior.

Both the magnesium anode and the protective gasket are changed. After that, the apparatus is put back together and linked to the water and power supply systems. Electrical corrosion is a common cause of damage to boiler tanks. Leaks result from the accumulator’s surface being gradually destroyed.

Many manufacturers place a magnesium anode next to the heater to avoid this issue. This component is not permanent; it is the responsibility of the device’s owner to promptly replace it with a new component. Regretfully, a few individuals overlook this, which may lead to their boiler becoming entirely ruined.

Depending on the type of heating element, it is advised to replace the magnesium anode every year or two as it progressively wears out.

Remembering the importance of grounding as a protective measure. Its absence increases the risk of injury when using the device and may also cause electrical corrosion.

In the article "Procedure of boiler disassembly for cleaning and repair," we will guide you through the necessary steps to safely and effectively disassemble your boiler for maintenance. Proper maintenance of your boiler is essential for ensuring its longevity and efficiency, as well as for maintaining a comfortable and safe home environment. By following our simple instructions, you"ll be able to clean and repair your boiler with confidence, helping to prevent breakdowns and costly repairs down the line. From shutting off the power to removing and cleaning key components, we"ll walk you through each step, making the process as straightforward as possible. With regular maintenance, you can keep your boiler running smoothly and your home warm and cozy.

Bolts in a circle

Bolting the heating element flange in a circular pattern is a fairly common design seen on heaters manufactured by Termex, Ariston, Polaris, and Combustion. Depending on the model, there may be 4, 5, or 6 of these bolts.

This type of electric boiler requires draining the water and disconnecting the power supply from the mains in order to disassemble, just like in the past. It is then preferable to remove the check valve, which may cause issues. Finding the screws that hold the plastic cover in place is one of the common problems that can arise when completely disassembling the water heater by hand. Tear off the stickers on the cover if you are unable to locate the fasteners. Self-tapping screw caps are occasionally concealed by manufacturers right beneath the "nameplate."

You can begin unscrewing the water heater’s bolts after removing the thermostat and any wires that interfere. The best tool to unscrew them is an appropriate-sized socket wrench.

How do I take out every component correctly so I can clean or fix it? repair of the 15-liter tank

The YouTube video P0yDWUMoLXQ As an aside, Ariston uses nuts instead of bolts in some of its storage boilers with this design. The nuts are screwed onto the studs, as seen in the above photo.

When fully disassembled, more costly models of water heaters reveal a number of wires and two heating elements positioned adjacent to one another. Such a device can be disassembled by following the prior instructions in analogy. However, in order to avoid confusion and hastily reassembling the tank, we advise you to snap a picture of every wire’s correct connection before disconnecting it.

You shouldn’t have any trouble disassembling a device that has a dry heater because the procedures are exactly the same.

That’s all I had to say about disassembling a Polaris, Ariston, or Termex water heater. We hope you were able to understand the disassembly order. Ask questions in the comments section below or in our group’s contact form if you have any!

Appropriate water drainage That is not possible for you to do! How do I take out every component correctly so I can clean or fix it? fixing a fifteen-liter tank The YouTube video P0yDWUMoLXQ

Tank flushing

A large portion of the dirty work is involved in boiler repair. To remove all coarse debris, pour and drain water through the neck multiple times. Next, evaluate the tank’s state of damage and look for signs of deep corrosion.

It is not advisable to clean the tank mechanically, especially if it has glass enamel on it. An extensive variety of mild chemistry is meant for these uses, including alkaline deposit removal and acid etching. The difference is not significant for coated tanks, but high PH products will be preferred for unprotected stainless steel.

A plastic pile brush can be used to expedite the process. Examine the welds’ state visually after flushing the tank to get a general idea of how long the boiler should last. If you don’t remember to clear the neck of all silt and rust, the flange will leak after packing.

How it works

You should familiarize yourself with the appliance’s mechanism and operating principles to reduce malfunctions. In private homes, accumulation models—which let you use electricity more wisely—are typically utilized rather than flowing models. One component of this type of appliance is a heat exchanger tank that houses a heating element that is connected to the power source.

The thermostat is a crucial component of the apparatus. You can keep the water inside the heater at a consistent temperature thanks to this element. Water enters the heat exchanger through the pipes. The thermoregulator sends out a signal to turn on the heating element if the temperature drops too much, which is typically the case.

The necessary temperature is reached by heating the water. Subsequently, the thermoregulator activates once more, cutting off the heating element. The heating process is continuously repeated by removing the hot water from the tank and replacing it with cold water. This is a general schematic of how a traditional storage water heater works.

The storage water heater’s mechanism is not overly intricate. The tank, heating element, thermostat, and gasket are the parts of the appliance that are most susceptible to damage.

Flow-through models have a slightly different structure. They heat a stream of water instead of a static volume. More potent heating components are used, which activate when the water is turned on and shut off when it is turned off. You must thoroughly familiarize yourself with the technical documentation that comes with a specific model in order to gain further insight into its functionality and operation.

A solid stainless steel vessel with a thickness of one or two millimeters makes up the heater tank. Even though this material is resistant to corrosion, these processes still happen on a regular basis and eventually lead to the device leaking water. Electrical corrosion is one of the most frequent causes of these malfunctions.

For the same reasons that storage models do, flow heaters also frequently malfunction. Such devices are diagnosed and repaired using comparable techniques (+)

It can be avoided by doing the following on a regular basis: replacing the magnesium anode that is installed inside the tank once a year. This component’s exact design aims to stop electrical corrosion.

It ages with time, and storage tank owners forget to replace this crucial component.

After serving you well for some time, a tank starts to leak. The heating element’s condition may also be impacted by the magnesium anode’s improper state. To stop heat loss, the exterior of the storage tank is often covered in an insulating shell made of plastic or metal.

Breakdowns are less likely if the magnesium anode is replaced and the water heater’s interior and heating element are routinely cleaned of scale and debris.

Damage to the insulation and outer shell of a device is uncommon and typically results from handling the device carelessly. While chips and cracks in the water heater’s casing won’t necessarily stop it from working, they will cause the heat insulator’s qualities to deteriorate and will have a detrimental effect on the device’s overall performance.

If the heater is installed correctly, cold water inlet and hot water outlet pipes typically do not cause any issues. Two thermostats are typically included with the water heater; one is used to regulate the water’s temperature, and the other keeps an eye on the first one’s health.

The household water heater’s electrical diagram will assist in accurately carrying out its repair, which typically entails swapping out the broken components.

To assess whether the heater is in good operating order, a third thermostat is occasionally utilized as well. The malfunctioning thermostat will need to be replaced entirely in any event. Thermostats come in capillary, rod, and electronic varieties. Although they are built differently, they function on a similar principle.

In addition to sealing the joint between the water heater’s components, insulating gaskets are essential for electrical insulation. It is advised that this element be changed on a regular basis when the water heater is being maintained.

The thermostat indicates the precise temperature at which the water inside the apparatus is heated. The water heater will still work if this element is broken, but it won’t be able to collect data on the temperature.

Most common breakdowns and how to fix them

If flow water heaters lack extra electronic control units, they are fairly straightforward. You can simply refer to the list, where they are all listed, in case there is any malfunction. A troubleshooting guide is also included with the list of errors.

Breakdown #1: burned out heating element

The most frequent malfunction occurs when an electric current reaches the heating element but does not pass through it, allowing the household appliance to continue operating even with the signal lamp lit.

Burned-out heating element in a water heater

The heating element should be fixed in the following order:

1. Turn off the water heater’s electricity and remove all of the water.

2. Take out the heating component. In order to accomplish this, it is required to remove multiple bolts that secure it to the water heater’s body.

3. After setting the resistance measurement beforehand, connect the multimeter’s working probes to the two main leads of the TEN. The heating element has an operating resistance of 32–35 ohms. The heating element is damaged if the multimeter displays one.

The element is installed in the opposite order. Remember to include the rubber gasket beneath the heating element as well. The gasket needs to be replaced if it is damaged.

Breakdown #2: clogging of the household appliance

Too little water pressure at the outlet may be the result of a clogged water heater. There’s also an inaudible sound that sounds like big debris moving through the system’s pipes.

It can take a while to identify the issue because after such a breakdown, the electrical circuit’s operational components are still all functional. All that is needed for a clogged water heater is a thorough cleaning; repair is not necessary.

Cleaning the flow water heater in the following order:

1. The device needs to be turned off, and the system needs to be completely empty of water.

2. The phase and zero wires from the heating element must be removed. After that, undock the heating appliance and give it a good wash in hot water. Scale and rust removal should not be done with hard objects as this could harm the element housing.

3. Use low pressure to flush the water intake and discharge pipes. It is permitted to use common household chemicals with a mild action and no active ingredients for the best results.

4. Use the opposite order to install the heating element. After turning the appliance on, make sure it works.

Breakdown #3: The power switch doesn"t work

The majority of boilers made in the most recent generation have multistage power switches installed. This saves energy costs and enables you to precisely control the temperature of the water. Failure of the power regulator has the effect of making the device unresponsive when the knob is rotated to change operating modes. The pressure is still normal even though the liquid output might be a little heated.

Regular power switch

A multimeter can be used to verify that the power switch, which is typically a variable rheostat, is working. Feeler gauges must be connected to the element’s outputs, and the adjustment knob must be smoothly turned. The rheostat needs to be replaced if it does not change in resistance. If it does, it is functioning properly. Marking the wires and connecting them to the correct switch terminals are essential when replacing. Purchasing an original switch is preferable to purchasing a less expensive analog.

Failure #4: external tank is punctured

The water heater’s tank may degrade after a lengthy period of use. The quality of the heated liquid has an impact on the material’s integrity as well; frequently, after several months of use, scale builds up on the heating element’s surface.

The external tank is damaged.

The device’s housing might get covered in liquid drips if there is a puncture, which would cause the liquid pressure at the outlet to drop suddenly. Visual inspection allows for the prompt detection of this malfunction.

A degraded rubber gasket, known as the "flange," beneath the heating element may also be the source of water leaks. It is sufficient to empty the water, unplug the water heater, and take out the heating element in order to replace the gasket. After removing the old gasket, a new one needs to be installed, and the appliance needs to be assembled backwards.

Uninsulated spirals in flow water heaters

Human life is seriously endangered by storage water heater spirals that are not insulated. It is not acceptable to fix a malfunctioning heating element by just winding nichrome wire over the rod.

Compared to a storage water heater, a flow heater has a completely different design. Instead of a tank, the heating element is housed in a copper container that is slightly bigger than the heating element. Two layers of protection are built into the device: a flow sensor that cuts off the heating element when the water supply is cut off, and a thermostat that regulates the water’s temperature.

Water and electricity are vital components of human life and should not be taken lightly. Contrary to what is occasionally written, it is not permitted to install uninsulated nichrome spirals in copper tanks, which are frequently connected by copper tubes.

We refer to this as negligent homicide.

And lastly, a debate with readers! It has a nichrome ceramic coating applied specifically to prevent the growth of scale. There is no better foundation for salt deposition than metal. The fact that it comes with an inert sheath is not accidental.

Thermal protection in a flow water heater

When you close the faucet, the water in this little heating zone will quickly overheat if the flow sensor is damaged and jammed in the on position. This increased pressure can harm the heater itself. Additionally, the heating elements will overheat as a result of the lack of cooling. Temperature control sensors ought to be installed in flow water heaters to avoid this from occurring.

For the KISPEL water heater, the water flow sensor

Despite having different purposes, the T1 and T2 sensors are made as a single element in the model covered in the previous article. Thermal sensor T1 is programmed to interrupt the circuit when the temperature rises above 60oC. T1 goes back to being in the on position after cooling down. In this instance, surpassing the temperature can occur for various reasons unrelated to a water heater malfunction.

The device that combines thermal sensors T1 and T2 is labeled as an overtemperature sensor.

The temperature sensor T2 is set to the temperature of 90ºC – we can say – this is the extreme limit of protection. It will trigger in case of breakage of the flow sensor and the T1 temperature sensor. Such a breakdown itself will not be eliminated, so this protective device after triggering it must switch on manually after the water heater has been repaired. On digital water heaters, broken or incorrect sensor readings will be indicated by an error code on the display. An example of eliminating one of the errors is shown in the video below, which also describes the function of thermal fuses and the repair of the electronic unit of one of the models of the Termex water heater:

Varieties of flow water heater control systems

The water heater’s operating control system may be constructed differently based on its model and design. For instance, the water flow is managed to regulate temperature in the THERMEX STREAM model. Special shower or washbasin nozzles included in the delivery set allow the flow to be controlled on its own. Here, a pressure switch and a thermal fuse (temperature sensor) serve as the protective elements.

THERMEX STREAM flow heater disassembled

Because of this, the electrical circuit diagram for this water heater is very different from the wiring diagram above. In this diagram, the phase current flows through the thermal fuse and pressure switch in turn, switching back to the on position when the temperature drops. It is essential to read the manufacturer’s instructions and the wiring diagram before attempting a DIY water heater repair.

THERMEX STREAM flow heater example diagram

The principle of control and protection in these water heater models differs greatly, as demonstrated by the comparison of two schemes from the same manufacturer. The plan will differ for water heaters with entirely different designs, respectively. For instance, the wiring diagram for the "Atmor" water heater is shown below.

Schematic of the 7 kW flow water heater ATMOR

Additionally, certain models might have an electronic interface that is directly linked to the heating element power supply’s power control relays. This indicates that the water heater may stop working if there is a malfunction with the electronic board or if the algorithm fails. Certain flow water heaters have the ability to regulate temperature through the use of electronic circuitry or by flipping the heating elements.

In what cases it is necessary to disassemble the boiler

Pipework layout for a gas boiler.

Periodically replacing the magnesium anode in the boiler is necessary because it acts as a catalyst to prevent corrosion of the tank walls and harmful effects on the heating element.

The quality of the water used in the boiler (a special filter should be installed on the cold water supply pipe), the water’s operating temperature, and the heater’s intensity of operation all affect how long the anode will last.

According to the boiler’s operating instructions, the magnesium anode should normally be used for no more than six months. The magnesium anode can withstand replacement for one to one and a half years if the boiler is used infrequently.

As part of the water heater’s preventive maintenance, the interior of the tank has to be completely cleaned of limescale and the walls must be washed. This is in addition to replacing the anode.

Additionally, the heating element needs to be cleaned with either specialized chemicals or a regular metal dish sponge.

An additional reason to disassemble the water heater could be a malfunction, accident, or the boiler’s response to unusual operating circumstances.

The heating element usually breaks down.

Diagram showing the boiler’s network connection.

A bad smell coming from the boiler and a yellow or brownish color in the water are signs of corrosion and blockage in the tank. This is demonstrated by the fact that the water is heated for an excessive amount of time and by the loud outside noises that emerge when the heating element is operating.

The boiler must be disassembled right away in order to identify and fix the problem. In any case, make sure the heating element and the storage tank walls are clean and give the boiler a thorough flush.

Verify the dependability of the rubber waterproofing gasket if there is a leak in the boiler. The gasket ought to be changed if required.

It is impossible to repair such a breakdown on your own if the leakage resulted from the storage tank’s own depressurization. If this turns out to be a factory defect, warranty coverage will need to replace the boiler.

Sometimes, the walls of the storage tank may corrode due to incorrect boiler use. In this instance, replacing the storage tank could end up costing more money than buying a new water heater.

Returning to the contents table

Step	Description
1	Turn off the boiler and allow it to cool down.
2	Switch off the power supply to the boiler.
3	Close off the water supply to the boiler.
4	Release any built-up pressure in the boiler.
5	Remove the outer casing or cover of the boiler.
6	Identify and disconnect any electrical connections.
7	Disconnect the pipes connected to the boiler.
8	Remove any screws or fasteners holding the boiler components together.
9	Carefully lift out the boiler components for cleaning or repair.
10	Inspect the components for any damage or buildup.
11	Clean the components thoroughly using appropriate cleaning agents.
12	Replace any damaged or worn-out parts.
13	Reassemble the boiler in the reverse order of disassembly.
14	Reconnect all electrical connections and pipes.
15	Turn on the water supply and check for any leaks.
16	Switch on the power supply to the boiler.
17	Restart the boiler and ensure it"s functioning properly.

To guarantee your boiler operates at its best and lasts a long time, regular maintenance is essential. Although disassembling your boiler for cleaning and repairs may seem like a difficult task, it is manageable with the right information and assistance. You can effectively clean and take care of any problems with your boiler by following a methodical procedure, which will ensure that it remains safe and efficient.

First and foremost, it’s important that you become familiar with the parts of your boiler and how they work before attempting to disassemble it. It will be much easier and safer to disassemble your boiler if you know how it works. For information on the specific parts and maintenance procedures of your boiler, consult the manual.

Next, before starting any disassembly work, make sure your boiler is fully powered off and cooled down. The most important thing to remember when using any equipment connected to heating systems is safety. Before continuing, unplug all power sources and let the boiler cool to a safe temperature.

You can start the disassembly procedure after the boiler has been safely turned off and cooled. To access the boiler’s internal components, start by removing the panels or outer casing. To facilitate reassembly later on, be sure to label and arrange any screws or fasteners you remove.

Observe the state of the boiler’s parts closely as you disassemble it. Seek out any indications of damage, accumulation, or corrosion that might be impairing its functionality. By giving these parts a thorough cleaning, you can increase your boiler’s efficiency and avert future problems.

Ultimately, after cleaning and repairs, reassemble your boiler by carefully inspecting all connections and parts to make sure everything is correctly fastened and positioned. Proceed in the opposite direction of the boiler’s manual’s disassembly instructions, making use of any labels or notes you make along the way.

In conclusion, even though disassembling a boiler for cleaning and repair may seem difficult at first, it is a task that can be completed with the correct information and safety measures. You can effectively maintain the performance of your boiler and extend its lifespan by adhering to a methodical approach and placing a high priority on safety. To guarantee your boiler’s continuous dependability and efficiency in heating your house, regular maintenance is essential.

Video on the topic

WATER HEATER DOES NOT HEAT 🤪 REPAIR 🔧

Boiler repair. Boiler does not turn on and does not heat

Repair of Ariston water heater. Part 1- Removing the tenon from the water heater

How to drain a water heater!? The easy way!

How to clean an Atlantic water heater [service technician"s illustrative example]

The life of a boiler tank and how it is affected by anode and regular cleanings