Plastering over mineral wool: how to plaster mineral wool on the facade – description of the process

Adequate insulation is essential for maintaining a warm and energy-efficient home. Mineral wool is a common technique for insulating a house’s exterior. Mineral wool is a versatile option for homeowners because it not only offers superior thermal insulation but also soundproofing and fire resistance.

But installing mineral wool alone isn’t always sufficient. It’s crucial to correctly plaster over the mineral wool for optimum effectiveness and durability. This procedure not only improves the exterior appearance of your home but also shields the insulation from weathering and damage.

Although plastering over mineral wool may appear difficult, it is possible to complete the task successfully with the appropriate tools and methods. This post will walk you through the process of plastering mineral wool on your home’s facade step-by-step so you can take advantage of better insulation and an eye-catching exterior.

The advantages of mineral wool insulation should be understood before beginning the plastering process. Mineral wool is an environmentally friendly alternative to traditional insulation materials like fiberglass because it is made from recycled slag or natural stone. Its air-tight fibrous structure acts as a barrier to prevent heat gain in the summer and loss in the winter.

Furthermore, mineral wool has a low maintenance requirement and a long lifespan due to its resistance to mold, moisture, and pests. In addition to increasing mineral wool’s durability, correct plastering increases your home’s overall comfort and energy efficiency.

Features of insulation with mineral wool under the plaster

Mineral wool is a common material used for building and structure insulation. Placing glass wool underneath the plaster mortar is advised by experts. Its exceptional thermal insulation values, strength reserve, and high flexibility set it apart.

Rolls and mats are used as forms of insulation. Minwool helps to keep the heat in the space and shields the facade from the effects of condensation.

From the instruments needed for the task at hand:

• hammer;
• dowels and self-tapping screws;
• a set of trowels;
• adhesive mortar or liquid nails;
• guides;
• primer;
• drill and screwdriver;
• scissors.

The first step in the insulation process is surface preparation. It is cleaned to get rid of dirt, old coating, and fastener components. Mortar is used to fill in fractures. The primer has been applied to the surface.

Insulation is installed in multiple stages.

Dowel nails are used to secure the material once the glue has fully dried. The cap is slightly receded as they are hammered into each corner of the sheet.

Technical characteristics of the insulation

Mineral wool insulation of exterior facades maintains a specific microclimate in addition to retaining heat within the space. The qualities of the designated material supply all of this. The most significant characteristics consist of:

• soundproofing;
• level of thermal conductivity;
• environmental friendliness, due to the use of natural materials;
• vapor permeability;
• Maintaining the temperature regime;
• fire resistance, which is applicable for premises with high fire safety requirements;
• service life.

Minwata’s composition allows it to withstand temperature fluctuations without any problems. By using this kind of material to insulate the building’s facade from the outside, comfortable accommodations are ensured.

Types of mineral wool

Modern, high-quality insulation for home facades is mineral wool. When used, plaster allows for the best possible moisture escape without creating an ice crust. By shielding the facade from condensate’s effects, minwata helps to keep the heat in the space.

There are multiple types of content. The decision is made in accordance with the functional goal. Therefore, it is essential to ascertain the insulator’s operating characteristics prior to beginning construction work.

• Stone. The insulating material is made of rocks. The layer of stone wool material is fireproof, vapor permeable, soundproof. It withstands high loads and is fireproof. Possesses vapor permeability.
• Basalt. Variety of stone wool. It is made on the basis of basalt. It is singled out as a separate category due to its fire-resistant properties. Under the influence of open fire does not burn, but begins to melt. Other characteristics include low moisture absorption.
• Slag. Budget version of insulation. The main disadvantage is hygroscopicity and high thermal conductivity. The material is demanding to the thickness of the layer. It is laid 2-3 times thicker than analogues. The acidity of the material should also be noted. As a result of contact with insulation, metal surfaces oxidize.
• Glass wool. It has elasticity, high strength, low hygroscopicity. It has a small thermal conductivity. It is the best option for insulating the facade of a building. From the disadvantages stand out the requirement for safety during laying. The material contains small glass fibers, which can cause harm to respiratory and visual organs.

Rocks are used to make stone insulation.

The best material for insulating the building’s facade is glass wool.

Slag wool is an inexpensive insulation choice.

Wool made of basalt rock is resistant to fire.

Density is an important indicator for mineral wool. It forms during the material’s production phase. The layer needed will need to be thinner the higher the density. The range of 130 to 160 kg/m3 is the advised parameter for facade finishing. For a ventilated facade, the range is 80–130 kg/m3.

The market receives the insulation in the form of boards and rolls. The thickness of the final type varies. Permitted range is between 5 and 15 centimeters. Select slabs of material for facades. Installing it is more convenient. Among the producers, "Tekhnonikol," Isover, Knauf, and Rockwool have made a name for themselves. The market may receive insulation in the form of rolls.

Technology and main stages of insulation

Minwool insulation should be applied in phases, and it should be sealed with plaster afterward.

Three such fundamental stages are identified:

1. Installation of thermal insulation.
2. Reinforcement.
3. Carrying out decorative finishing.

Diagram of the insulation pie with the mineral wool installed

Installing a basement profile or strip in the wall is first required. This will guide the first row of insulation material and control the space between the bottom row of minwool and the wall. It will also prevent rodents and other pests from penetrating the minwool. Furthermore, it’s critical that the profiles securely attach the plaster to the expansion joints and shield the plaster layer from mechanical deformation.

Insulation for the facade is 140 kg/m² of minwool. Dowels or specialized glue are used to secure the minwool to the facade’s load-bearing walls.

Subsequently, affix a 25–35 cm wide strip of reinforcing mesh directly onto the wool beneath the profile. The lower edge of this mesh can be wrapped around the profile once the reinforcement has been glued to the mineral wool. This will completely insulate and create a monolithic layer of insulation. Using adhesive plaster, the reinforcement mesh is affixed to the wool.

The wool doesn’t collapse because of the reinforcing mesh.

Decorative plaster on silicate, mineral, acrylic, or silicone base can be used to decorate the minwool boards. Any color that complements the facade’s overall color scheme can be painted over the plaster once it has dried.

It is imperative that every material utilized for the task be identical in every way. For instance, plaster and thermal insulation should be mixed according to the thermal expansion parameter, have the same thermal conductivity coefficient, and roughly equal levels of hygroscopicity. The plaster will crumble and break very quickly if the rules governing the combinability of materials are disregarded, and the insulation’s effectiveness will be diminished.

You can purchase a prefabricated facade insulation system to protect yourself from material combination issues. Roockwool, Knauf, Atlas, and Ceresit are the most well-known manufacturers on the market. However, it is important to keep in mind that using prefabricated facade thermal insulation does not absolve one from adhering to the system installation’s safety guidelines and principles. If not, you’ll merely be throwing money into thin air.

Fixing with dowels

If someone considers fixing foam insulation with umbrella plugs to be just a reinsurance, this cannot be said for mineral wool. Its weight is at least twice the weight of foam, which means that additional fixation is simply necessary. However, note that fixing with these elements should not be done immediately, but at least after 24 hours (24 hours)!) after gluing. When insulating the facade of the house, carefully follow the instructions to the building materials. Dowels can be attached at least 24 hours after the board has shrunk on the glue. How many dowels are needed? For Styrofoam is considered acceptable 4-5, for minwool from 8 and above. How to fix with dowels? First you need to drill a hole for the anchor. It should be deeper than the dowel itself by 15-20 mm. After that, the fastener itself is inserted and hammered or screwed in. Where to place each dowel? Usually, the center of the board and in places of "dressing" is fixed. That is, a hole is drilled in the place where the vertical joint rests on the top slab. If we do insulation of the facade with minwool under the plaster it is time to move on to the plaster itself. And for this you need a reinforcing mesh.

Types of facade plaster

Minwool is an insulator that is susceptible to the adverse effects of outside influences. For added protection, apply additional finishing techniques, like plaster.

For use with mineral wool, a variety of mixtures are available. Plasticity, surface dispersion ease, and mechanical impact resistance are considered when choosing a material. Vapor permeability and water repellency are not insignificant features.

Experts identify four varieties of facade plaster. Their composition and performance are different.

Mineral

Mineral plaster is created by adding ingredients to cement to improve its degree of adhesion, plasticity, and moisture resistance.

Although they are less flexible, cement mortars are strong. They are difficult to use and not advised for facade finishing because of the possibility of significant mechanical impact.

Cement is the base for making mineral plaster, which is then combined with ingredients to increase its plasticity.

Acrylic

Mineral components are added to acrylic resin-based materials to create acrylic compounds. The solution is flexible, strong, and immune to changes in temperature.

• moisture resistance;
• high degree of adhesion with the base;
• ease of use;
• high speed of setting and drying.

There are several color options for acrylic plasters. Mineral components are added to an acrylic resin-based material called an acrylic mixture.

Silicate

Acrylic resins are mixed with potassium silicate to create silicate plaster. The resultant coating is robust, long-lasting, and impact-resistant due to this combination. The ideal plaster to use when finishing minwool is silicate plaster.

One of the material’s drawbacks is that it requires laying and has a limited shelf life. The resolution solidifies rapidly.

Silicate mixtures are sold on the market in a variety of volumetric containers and are ready to use. Potassium silicate is used to make silicate plaster, along with acrylic resins.

Silicone

Silicate mortars offer the benefits of other plaster types. They are resistant to the growth of fungi, plastic, and vapor permeable. The degree of adhesion of the material is high. The completed coating resists dirt attraction and has an antistatic effect. safe for the environment.

Among the drawbacks are the mixture’s high cost and the need to adhere to work-related technology.

The plaster needs to be covered with silicone primer. Resistant to fungal growth, vapor permeable, and malleable are the qualities of silicone mortars.

How to insulate the facade with mineral wool with your own hands

Salutations, cherished readers! The technology of using mineral wool for facade insulation is the subject of today’s article. Without exaggeration, mineral wool can be described as an insulator, or as "a long liver."

It first appeared in the 1970s and is still frequently used to insulate commercial and residential structures.

What is this heat insulator’s secret? What kind of insulation for facades uses mineral wool underneath plaster? How can you manually insulate facades using mineral wool? I’ll explain in the article.

Minwool: characteristics, types, scope of application

An inorganic insulator with a distinct structure is mineral wool. There are differences between the following types:

• glass wool with the addition of fused glass fibers;
• Mineral wool, which is based on particles of sedimentary rocks;
• Slag wool, which includes blast furnace slag.

Although the last variety of mineral wool is the least expensive, it is not advised to use it to insulate residential buildings because it is not a green material. Stone and glass wool are environmentally friendly insulators that can be utilized in residential construction (for example, to insulate a house’s facade) without posing a health risk. Despite the fact that mineral wool made of fiberglass and sedimentary rocks will cost significantly more.

The two primary features of mineral wool are its high moisture absorption capacity and high thermal conductivity (0,035-0,040 W / m ° C). Because of this characteristic, mineral wool that has been exposed to high humidity levels for three years can lose up to fifty percent of its ability to retain heat.

It’s crucial! Mineral wool insulation shouldn’t be used to insulate spaces with high humidity levels due to its high absorption capacity.

Utility rooms and residential spaces with typical humidity levels can be insulated with this insulator. Additionally, floors, attics, lofts, fireplaces, stoves, and fireplaces can all be successfully insulated with this insulator.

The following can be linked to mineral wool’s benefits:

• non-combustibility, self-extinguishing in fire;
• convenient form of release (plates or rolls);
• environmental safety;
• good sound and acoustic insulation;
• budgetary.

Necessary materials and tools

How can mineral wool be used to insulate the house’s facade? The first step in insulating a mine facade is figuring out how much construction supplies are needed, such as reinforcement grid, glue for tiles or facades, primer for wall treatment, and sheets or rolls of mineral wool. Take into consideration the materials separately for the last layer of decoration.

The following instruments are required to complete exterior insulation:

• Perforator or pneumatic hammer – for leveling the surface;
• Wide brushes or roller – for applying primer;
• whisk, mixer, special nozzle for a perforator – for kneading the adhesive composition;
• trowels of different sizes;
• a wallpaper knife to cut the reinforcing mesh.

Tools are also required to complete the decorative layer. You’ll need rollers, trowels, scrapers, and trowels for the plaster.

Step by step instructions for insulation

To put it simply, you need a manual if you want to know exactly what needs to be done and in what order in order to insulate the facade with mineral wool using your hands. This will be given to you below.

The following are detailed steps for building an insulation system made of mineral wool:

1. Preparation of the surface of the facade, which consists of sealing old cracks, removing chips, protrusions. For this purpose, a pneumatic hammer or a perforator is used. And the walls should also be cleaned of debris and dirt. In the presence of corrosion and mold, these deposits must be removed. The wall is primed with a wide brush.
2. Glue preparation. Most compositions are sold as a dry powder, which must be diluted with water and mixed thoroughly. It is necessary to strictly observe the proportions specified on the package by the manufacturer. Stirring of glue is made with a whisk or a special nozzle on a perforator.
3. Glue the boards from the bottom, and the first (bottom) row of boards should be placed on special wooden supports. It is necessary to do this because mineral wool is a heavy material and over time can "slip" from the wall, breaking the whole construction of thermal insulation. It is recommended to use wooden planks as a support.
4. Gluing the panels of insulation is as follows: the glue is distributed around the perimeter of the panel and a strip of width of 5-10 cm in the center; the board is applied to the facade and pressed tightly; fixed with dowels in the corners and two nails in the middle.
5. The sheets are fixed butt-to-butt as tightly as possible. The next higher level is offset from the lower level. Joints are filled with glue.
6. 2-3 mm of glue is applied to the fixed insulation board, in which the reinforcing mesh is "embedded". The excess mesh is cut off with a wallpaper knife.
7. The desired decorative layer is applied on the reinforcing layer.

Artificial and natural stone cladding can be used as the last decorative layer. Painting after applying a layer of plaster is the easiest and least expensive method.

Which mineral wool to choose for wall insulation

Two elements influence the effectiveness and caliber of minwool insulation for exterior walls:

• properly selected insulation;
• compliance with the technology of thermal insulation works.

The selection of insulation appears straightforward at first. However, this is the "homemaker’s" perspective. A specialist will quickly point out that multiple factors simultaneously affect insulation efficiency:

• type of insulation – under the cladding of siding, and other short-lived materials is better to buy glass wool. Here is an ideal combination of price and quality. Under the "wet insulation", cladding of porcelain stoneware, artificial and natural stone, block-house requires material from basalt wool. "Biting" price is justified by a long service life. You can also use glass wool, but this is just the case when "the greedy pays twice";
• the thickness of the mat – one of the most important indicators. It determines, firstly, the efficiency of insulation, and secondly, the location of the "dew point". Both factors are embedded in a special formula, with which many specialists have difficulty coping. For skillful hands, we give two tips on how to do without complicated calculations:

1. Take advantage of the established practice and buy for the middle strip of Russia slabs thickness of 100 mm, northern – 150 mm, southern – 50 mm.
2. Use the online calculator posted here.

• linear dimensions. Modern production produces mineral wool in widths from 20 to 180 cm, lengths from 100 to 600 cm.

The mineral wool insulation for exterior building walls that is most practical for work size is:

1. width – 50-60 cm. At this size, it is easy to nail the purlins, it is easy to mount the insulation inside the cells and fasten to the wall;
2. length – boards should be within 100-120 cm, rolls – any length, because in the process of work they will in any case have to be cut, because with long strips it is difficult to work;
3. density. Thermal insulation properties of the material and rigidity of the board (ability to resist deformation under the influence of mechanical loads) depend on the indicator, which is especially important when applying decorative plaster directly on the insulation ("wet method" of insulation) and insulation of the frame house, when the lower mat is pressed by the weight of the upper boards.

Experts advise investing in dense mineral insulation:

• 50-75 kg/m3 for insulating the walls of the frame house with mineral wool – insulation with a different density will eventually begin to give shrinkage;
• 80-130 kg/m3 for insulation of walls with a ventilated gap;
• 130-160 kg/m3 for decorative plaster;
• 150-175 kg/m3 for facade of concrete structures.

What is the difference between insulation with mineral wool under the plaster from siding or block-huysa

Water vapor escape conditions are considerably worse when siding panels are used as protective cladding on the facade. That is, because of the windproofing and impermeability of the exterior panels, moisture can easily pass through the walls and the mineral wool insulation layer, but it is more difficult for vapor to escape from under the siding. This goes against the fundamental idea of building facade insulation, which states that every outer layer after an inner layer should have a higher vapor permeability.

The picture below illustrates what happens when moisture builds up between the wall and the lining of the house. The walls become heavily damp, dust accumulates, and creates an environment that is perfect for the growth of pathogenic microflora.

House where the external insulation has been removed

Crucial! Although plaster that has been carefully chosen for the facade usually allows for the best possible water vapor escape, there are occasionally minor issues. The facade’s front surface may have spots with the recognizable "leopard" pattern if the directions for insulating the walls from the outside with mineral wool under the plaster are not followed or the mineral wool was covered in dust.

For no other reason than this, a lot of newly constructed building owners are reluctant to engage with minwool. Making a dependable, nearly indestructible insulation is less expensive and simpler than working with hazardous and poisonous penoplex.

In the quest for energy efficiency and comfortable living spaces, insulating and heating our homes is paramount. When it comes to external insulation, mineral wool stands out as a popular choice due to its effectiveness in retaining heat and soundproofing. However, to maximize its benefits, proper plastering over mineral wool is crucial. This process involves several steps, including preparing the surface, applying a base coat, attaching reinforcing mesh, and finally, applying the finishing coat. Each step requires attention to detail to ensure a seamless and durable finish that not only enhances the aesthetic appeal of the facade but also reinforces the insulation properties of the mineral wool. By understanding and following the process of plastering over mineral wool, homeowners can significantly improve the energy efficiency and overall comfort of their homes while also enhancing their exterior appearance.

Materials and tools to perform the work

Before beginning any building or finishing project, supplies and tools must be ready.

The following finishing supplies will be needed:

• Powdered or ready-to-use compound;
• primer;
• reinforcing mesh;
• dowels with self-tapping screws;
• construction adhesive;
• tape.

What is required from the construction tools is:

• containers for water and solution;
• brushes, roller;
• a set of trowels;
• rule;
• construction mixer;
• industrial shears.

Tools should be arranged so that everything needed to lay mortar is close at hand.Cleanliness is a must for tools. Everything required to lay the mortar is conveniently located thanks to their layout.

Types of minwata for insulating the walls of the house from the outside and comparison with foam plastic – what is the best choice of insulator

The following kinds of wool are available to use beneath plaster:

• basalt;
• slag;
• fiberglass.

The best wool to use before plastering a building’s facade is basalt wool. The material is durable when used outdoors and has a low heat conductivity. Basalt mineral wool has a density of 130–150 kg/m³.

The substance is acknowledged as a traditional facade insulator beneath the plaster covering for wooden buildings. Basalt wool with a density of 90–129 kg/m³ is produced by manufacturers. It is advised to use lightweight composition on low-rise buildings and facade areas with minimal wind load.

Melted staple glass fiber is used to make mineral glass wool. Plastering materials are inexpensive to purchase. It is imperative to consider the product’s low strength and susceptibility to mechanical deformation. The fibers of glass wool are 15–50 mm long and 5–15 microns thick. The substance is resistant to heat and holds its properties at -60…+450 °C. Glass wool has a density of no more than 130 kg/m³.

Slag wool is frost-resistant, chemically stable, and does not shrink significantly. The range for thermal conductivity is 0.038–0.046 W/m^^. This kind of minwool doesn’t smolder or catch fire. The material exhibits high strength, sound absorption capabilities, and frost resistance. Because glass wool fibers can break easily, it’s important to wear protective gear and a respirator when working with it. Compared to the basalt variety, the material has less thermal stability. At temperatures higher than +450 °C, the insulation starts to melt.

Slag from blast furnaces is melted to create slag wool. Minwool is made of a synthetic binder material and is shaped like boards or mats. Cinder block fibers range in thickness from 4 to 12 microns and length up to 16 mm. The product has a density of 75–400 kg/m³. One feature of the material is its low cost. Slag is heat-resistant up to +300 °C.

Slag has a thermal conductivity of 0,46-0,48 W/m.^, which is less than that of basalt board.

The material has a limited service life of 10 to 15 years. Slag wool is not advised for finishing building facades in climates that experience frequent precipitation, high air humidity, and temperature swings.

The fiber structure of minwool varies depending on the production technology and raw materials utilized.

The following subspecies of the material are distinguished based on the type of fiber structure:

• horizontally layered;
• corrugated;
• vertically layered.

Subspecies of mineral insulation are distinguished by labeling:

1. P-75 – wool has density values up to 75 kg/cubic meter. m and is used for insulation of surfaces with a small load.
2. P-125 – density of this grade of mineral wool is 125 kg/cubic meter and is used for insulation of surfaces with low load. м. The product is used for finishing surfaces with low loads, more often horizontal planes. The wool is suitable for finishing walls made of brick, expanded clay or gas concrete.
3. ПЖ-175 – minwool of this marking is used for processing walls made of profiled metal sheets and reinforced concrete slabs.
4. PPZh-200 – this composition is optimal for surfaces made of metal, brick. The product is characterized by increased fire resistance.

The following subspecies of minwool are distinguished based on the mode of release:

1. Slabs with a basalt base are characterized by a low level of density. The products are recommended to be used in places of increased loads, it is optimal to fix the boards on concrete screeds.
2. Rolls and mats of minwool are characterized by a medium level of density, so they are optimal for insulation of structures with low loads.

Minwool exhibits a longer shelf life when compared to foam plastic. Volcanic rocks, which are used to make wool, are unaffected by extremes in temperature or humidity. Mineral wool has properties that make it resistant to fire, whereas foam plastic is a flammable substance. These indications suggest that mineral wool has a benefit and should be used for facade finishing.

When polystyrene foam is not used to insulate wooden buildings, air cannot enter the building. The only insulation for wooden walls is mineral wool. Mineral compositions provide optimal insulation for a variety of frame buildings.

Pros and cons of using minwool for external thermal insulation of the house

The main reasons for the insulator’s popularity are as follows:

• low thermal conductivity of the material, and therefore high thermal insulation characteristics;
• excellent sound insulation;
• a good level of fire safety (because minwata does not support combustion);
• vapor permeability (provides "breathing" of the house, which is especially important if the house is not wooden, but stone);
• resistance to fungi and rodents;
• relative environmental friendliness and safety of the material (harmful substances are released only when heated over 300 ° C);
• simple installation technology.

Minwool thermal insulation of the facade can be completed on its own

As drawbacks, the following should be noted:

• change in the volume of insulation and the appearance of cracks in it (occurs only when there is no reinforcing layer);
• if minwool is not treated with hydrophobic solution, all its thermal insulation characteristics will come to naught, because it almost instantly absorbs moisture.

Advantages and disadvantages

Mineral wool has many benefits in addition to its superior thermal insulation qualities.

• The insulation layer provides a high level of sound insulation.
• Wool is neither flammable nor combustible.
• It is absolutely vapor permeable, which means that the walls of your house will "breathe".
• The material is resistant to biofouling. In other words, you will not have a headache about rodents and insect pests inside the facade.
• Full protection from mold.
• It is possible to insulate the facade of houses with minwool with their own hands, because the material is very simple in terms of installation.

Although they are much fewer, insulation still has the following drawbacks:

• In the absence of a reinforcement frame, cracks may form in the insulation and its volume may change.
• The material requires mandatory treatment with a composition that gives it hydrophobic properties. Otherwise, it will be saturated with moisture and will no longer meet the requirements for insulation.

Strengthening the construction

The first stage of reinforcement is the patches. These are the elements that hold the construction in particularly vulnerable places. Namely: corners of window openings, corners of the building, door openings. In such places, an adhesive solution is applied to the boards, on an area slightly larger than the grid itself. At least 200 by 300 mm. After that, the mesh itself is embedded in the glue. Here we must specify at once. You can not do the opposite: fix the mesh and throw glue on top of it. The mesh must be embedded in the adhesive.
The mesh is placed on the adhesive mortar and embedded in it.
Now, when the weakest elements of the structure are reinforced, we proceed to the installation of the main mesh. Its installation is similar to the installation of "patches", but only larger in size. We apply a layer of adhesive and use a trowel at least 35 cm long to smooth it over the surface of the facade. After that, we gradually sink the mesh into it and cover it so that it is not visible. The following video shows how to work correctly with a trowel at this stage of insulation of the facade with minwool and the technology of glue application.

Step-by-step instructions on fixing the insulation board

Mounting and installing the starting profile—the base upon which the insulation will be fixed—is required prior to beginning the process of cladding the exterior of the house with mineral wool for the purpose of plastering and applying bark.

The primary goal of the profile is:

• protect the insulating layer from possible moisture and rodent damage;
• prevention of deformation of the heat insulator;
• will maintain the space between the wall surface and the outermost row of mineral wool.

The profile can be made of wooden, plastic, or metal bars. Despite the material’s attractive price, wood is not frequently used for this purpose due to its relatively low durability. Dowels are used to hold the starter strip in place. Its fixing height should be between 40 and 60 centimeters above the ground.

You can then start the process of directly installing the insulation layer. There are two stages to the process:

Step 1

Gluing. An adhesive that is specifically made for a particular kind of mineral wool and appropriate for use outdoors is chosen. In the event that you choose a dry mixture, you will need to make the adhesive solution by hand. Installing thermal insulation is best done from left to right and from bottom to top.

Apply a thin layer of the prepared glue mixture to the chosen side of the insulation. Next, add five more visually striking glue fragments, four of which should be applied near the board’s corners and one in the middle. The slab then positions itself on the wall. It is best to hold the glued fragment for a few minutes to improve surface adhesion.

The next fragment should be bonded to the preceding one as tightly as possible, butt-to-butt. The effect of heat preservation will be weakened if insulation is installed in two layers, so care should be taken to ensure that the joints between the insulation boards do not line up. It is preferable to follow the bricklaying method, which lays the boards in a staggered pattern with the joints from the prior layer overlapping.

Step 2

Using dowels to fix. Only after the adhesive layer has fully dried can fastening be done. Generally, this process takes one day, but the product label from each manufacturer provides more precise information. Up to eight dowels might be required for the insulation board’s sturdy fixing, depending on its size.

The fixing method is fairly straightforward: one dowel is inserted into each insulation corner, attempting to position it as close to the joints as feasible. Next, a number of fasteners are affixed to the insulator fragment’s central section. Using a perforator, a hole is made for a complete fixing. It ought to extend a few centimeters beyond the dowel by itself. The anchor is then inserted, and depending on the dowel type chosen, its core is either screwed or hammered in.

Strengthening of the structure

There are multiple stages to the structure’s reinforcement. Patching is the first of these methods of reinforcement. In areas where there is a greater chance of damage, such as the corners of window and door openings and the house, they safeguard the structural integrity. Adhesive solution is used to coat vulnerable areas, and then mesh is layered over it. This is an important point: it needs to be completely submerged in the glue. Applying adhesive to the mesh fragment that has been installed is strictly forbidden.

This easy method works well for fixing the unreliability-prone structural elements.

The primary mesh layer can then be installed. The technology was previously explained. Using a long trowel (no less than 35 centimeters), the adhesive is applied and leveled across the facade’s whole surface. Subsequently, the adhesive layer is applied over the mesh sections, making them invisible.

HISTORY When fixing the mesh, leave about 10 centimeters of overlap. The joints created when the pieces are installed butt to butt may cause the plaster to crack.

Final priming

A primer must be used in order for mineral wool to be properly covered with a finishing layer. It is important to choose the priming mixture carefully, without sacrificing quality. Ceresit, the manufacturer previously mentioned, has demonstrated its abilities. A two-layer application can be avoided if the priming coat is applied carefully and slowly. Following that, you can apply the last finishing layer, which will make the work appear completed.

Technology of plastering minwool – steps

Only after the insulation is installed can the facade be plastered. Professionals advise utilizing a reinforcing mesh to ensure the mortar’s adherence. Fiberglass or plastic may be used. Their light weight and simplicity of installation define them.

Plastering the facade involves a number of sequential steps:

• surface preparation;
• reinforcement;
• primer;
• plastering.

Every step is completed with a pause to allow the binding materials to dry. Experts advise utilizing a reinforcing mesh for dependable mortar adhesion.

Step 1. Preparing a facade with minwool for plastering

How well the facade is prepared affects how well the mortar sticks to the insulating material’s surface. Consequently, professionals advise doing the following order of action:

1. If the installation of insulation is made with gaps, they are eliminated with small pieces of minwool or glued with foam.
2. The presence of gradients of more than 2-3 millimeters is eliminated by sanding the material with a grater. The quality of the surface is checked with a construction or laser level.
3. If polystyrene foam was chosen as insulation, its surface is treated with a metal brush or a needle roller to give roughness.
4. Minwool surface is primed with deep penetration solution with antiseptic properties. It is recommended to apply 2 layers with an interval of 12-24 hours. It may also be necessary to install a waterproofing layer if the wool is not treated with a hydrophobic compound.
5. Install metal corners at the corners of the building. Places of their attachment are smeared with putty or construction adhesive.

There shouldn’t be any flaws or variations on the prepared surface larger than two to three millimeters. There shouldn’t be any flaws or variations in the surface that is ready for plastering that are larger than 2-3 millimeters.

Step 2. Reinforcement

Reinforcement is the next stage after facade preparation. Its primary responsibility is to strengthen the finishing material so that it adheres to the base more firmly and forms a monolithic layer.

Technology used to make reinforcement includes the following:

Only after the reinforcing layer has dried can the subsequent work be started.

Step 3. Priming

The plaster mortar’s degree of adhesion to the substrate is increased by primer. It guarantees consistent adhesion and the development of a monolithic layer.

For priming, experts advise using a roller. It is rolled up onto the wall after being dipped in mortar. The work is done without pressure, and there is a lot of moisture on the surface.

The type of mix should determine which primer is used (silicone primer works well with silicone mixes, silicate primer works well with silicate mixes). Additionally, universal acrylic compositions can be used.

The layer will take four to twenty-four hours to dry. The primer improves the plaster mortar’s degree of adherence to the substrate.

Step 4. Plaster application

Plastering mineral wool requires the use of vapor-permeable mixtures. This lessens the chance of moisture building up in the insulation and finish delamination. For mineral wool, silicone, silicate, or acrylic plasters work best.

Plastering mineral wool requires the use of vapor-permeable mixtures.

Following priming, the walls are covered with mortar in accordance with the guidelines:

Finishing takes place seven to ten days following plastering. The mortar has time to strengthen and acquire functional qualities during this period.

Step	Description
1	Clean the surface of the mineral wool thoroughly to remove any dust, dirt, or debris.
2	Apply a bonding agent or primer to the mineral wool surface to improve adhesion of the plaster.
3	Mix the plaster according to the manufacturer"s instructions, ensuring the right consistency.
4	Apply the first coat of plaster evenly over the mineral wool using a trowel, making sure to cover the entire surface.
5	Allow the first coat to dry completely before applying the second coat.
6	Apply the second coat of plaster, smoothing it out and ensuring a uniform finish.
7	Once the plaster is fully dry, sand it lightly to remove any imperfections and achieve a smooth surface.
8	Inspect the plastered surface for any missed spots or uneven areas, and touch up as necessary.
9	Finish the plastered surface with paint or other desired finishing materials to protect it from the elements.

Mineral wool plastering can greatly improve the facade of your home’s insulation and aesthetics. You can increase energy efficiency and create a barrier against weather elements by plastering mineral wool correctly. Although there are multiple steps in this process, they can all be completed with careful attention to detail.

First and foremost, make sure the surface is clear of contaminants and debris. For the plaster to stick to the mineral wool, proper preparation is essential. To create an even base for the plaster, any loose particles should be removed and the surface smoothed.

Next, give the mineral wool a coat of an appropriate primer. The primer ensures that the plaster adheres well to the surface and helps to improve adhesion. Before moving on to the next step, let the primer completely dry.

After the primer dries, you can start plastering. Select a premium plaster made especially for outside usage. Using a trowel or spatula, apply the plaster uniformly while working in small sections. Making sure the finish is uniformly smooth should be your primary concern.

To improve the facade’s visual appeal after plastering, you might decide to add texture or decorative accents. Interesting patterns and designs can be made by utilizing a variety of techniques, such as stippling or sponging.

Lastly, follow the manufacturer’s instructions and let the plaster dry completely. Depending on the type of plaster used and the weather, this could take a few days. Your freshly plastered mineral wool facade will look fantastic and give your house better insulation after it dries.

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