Options for preparing the bases for a warm floor: dry and half -dry screed, on the ground, a staunch method and in a concrete base

There is nothing that compares to the appeal of a warm floor when it comes to keeping our homes nice and comfortable. Any room can be made to feel completely different with a heated floor, regardless of the season. However, you must make sure the foundation is properly laid before you can enjoy the cozy warmth beneath your feet. This article will discuss several approaches to warm floor base preparation, including concrete bases, ground-based techniques, and both dry and half-dry screeds.

Dry or semi-dry screed installation is a widely used technique for creating a warm floor. Using these methods, a sturdy screed base—usually made of cement and sand—must be laid before the heating components can be installed. Because they don’t need as long of a drying period as wet methods do, dry screeds can be installed more quickly. While still enabling effective heat transfer, half-dry screeds provide a more stable base by striking a balance between wet and dry.

There are various choices available for those who want to install a warm floor right on the ground. A typical method involves placing insulating boards directly on the ground to create a barrier between the earth below and the heating components. On the other hand, some choose a more substantial approach, like the staunch method, which entails digging a hole, installing insulation, and then filling it with concrete to form a sturdy foundation for the heating system.

Integrating with a concrete base is another common method for getting ready for the warm floor base. By encasing the heating components inside a concrete slab, this technique offers effective heat distribution in addition to structural support. Many homeowners looking for a long-term solution for their warm floor needs choose concrete bases because of their strength and longevity.

It’s important to consider your options when preparing the base for a warm floor installation before moving forward with the project. Every method has pros and cons, whether you choose concrete bases, ground-based methods, staunch techniques, or dry or half-dry screeds. You can make sure your warm floor offers years of comfort, efficiency, and longevity by being aware of the subtleties of each technique.

Preparation of the base for water warm floor

When setting up a heating system, preparing the base prior to installing a water floor is crucial because it affects the system’s heating efficiency. It is important that the black base be uniformly strong and well-isolated to prevent the loss of thermal energy.

The surface is cleared of trash and examined for evenness once the project is drawn up. It is not necessary to have an absolutely level surface; what matters is that there shouldn’t be any significant variations because uneven pipework will result in uneven heating.

Heat and waterproofing come next, and then the heating element is installed.

Polystyrene slabs with bosses can be used as pipe clamps when used as heaters.

When it comes to heating and insulating your home, choosing the right foundation for a warm floor is crucial. There are several options available, each with its own benefits and considerations. Dry and half-dry screeds offer a relatively quick and cost-effective solution, while installing directly onto the ground provides direct heat transfer but requires careful insulation to prevent heat loss. The staunch method involves laying insulation boards before pouring a screed layer, ensuring efficient heat distribution. Alternatively, embedding heating elements within a concrete base offers durability and stability, albeit with a longer installation process. Understanding these options allows homeowners to select the best method suited to their needs, ensuring a cozy and energy-efficient home.

Types of bases

Water heating systems can be installed using a variety of technologies, but they are typically installed on concrete floors or on cement-sand pillows. In private homes, floor heating can also be installed on the ground.

Concrete screed

It’s common practice to pour concrete solution onto the floor since it creates a sturdy foundation. The concrete base is a separate component that has no bearing on the room’s exterior walls or foundation. On a surface like this, laying the pipeline is simple.

Benefits of this approach:

• the creation of a high -quality thermal insulation layer, which significantly reduces heat loss;
• obtaining the maximum flat surface that can withstand strong mechanical influences;
• Uniform heat distribution.

For the production of a high-quality warm-water floor base, concrete M150 is suggested. Concrete of brand M 300 and higher should be used when pouring the base in a large room.

Warm floor on the ground

When pouring a concrete base, the Earth’s plot must be ready if the warm floor is to be installed on the ground. First, you must ascertain the groundwater level. Installing the drainage system is preferable since it will handle water drainage.

The following guidelines should be adhered to when preparing the base:

1. Make a bed layer 4 – 5 cm thick, it will serve as a loading layer. To do this, it is necessary to pour crushed stone with a cement-sand mixture. In this case, it is recommended to use concrete of brand B10. So that the solution does not spread, it is necessary to overlap the flooded surface with rails, thereby creating a box in which a concrete screed is located. The mixture needs constant moisture until the surface dries completely.
2. Place the waterproofing layer at the lower level – be sure to. Thick polyethylene is used, which needs to be laid out. You can replace a polyethylene film with a polymer-bitum membrane.
3. Lay the insulation – it will save from heat losses. High -quality thermal insulation can protect up to 20% heat. Good thermal insulation material should have low thermal conductivity, high strength, maintain its properties at high humidity and low temperatures. The best material is a polystyrene foam.

Half -smoked screed

In comparison to a "wet" solution, a semi-dry solution has less water in it. When the mixture is squeezed in the hand, water should escape, but the mixture shouldn’t spread. This is how the mixture’s quality is assessed.

The semi-dry look’s primary benefits are as follows:

• not high price;
• ease of use;
• good thermal insulation;
• there is no shrinkage when dried;
• The process of preparing the mixture takes less time.

Dry screed

Dry screed is a thick, unique mixture that adheres to the waterproofing substance.

Benefits of this approach:

• ease of installation;
• possibly construction in several stages;
• does not require drying, so you can immediately continue work;
• excellent thermal insulation properties, especially if expanded clay is used;
• It is easy to hide communications under the backfill.

1. Insects often start in the composition;
2. In the case of the heat carrier leakage, the water easily leaks through the mixture, and will lead to the formation of mold;
3. Has a bad bearing ability.

Warm floor without concrete screed

Chipboard or wooden planks serve as a base when installing a warm floor without filling the concrete. Using products with a minimum thickness of 20 mm is advised. We refer to this technique as the flooring.

A warming system uses this option if:

• the height of the room is limited;
• non -strong floors that may not withstand a large load;
• For one reason or another, it is not possible to pour concrete solution.

Types of insulation

Thermal insulation materials are crucial when laying the foundation for a heated floor. The characteristics of the premises and the kind of base are considered when selecting it.

Although the thickness of the insulation should be chosen separately, the insulation’s overall thermal conductivity is the same.

Think about the most popular kinds of insulation that blocks heat.

Foam polystyrene and polystyrene

The process of creating polystyrene insulation foam involves creating tubules in the material’s texture to allow for airflow. Large mechanical loads are easily withstood by the robust products. Foam insulation passes water vapors better, is easier to install, and "breathes" well.

Penoplex comes in three distinct sizes: 90 x 500 cm, 50 x 130 cm, and 120 x 240 cm. The densities of these products are different: foam is 125 kg/m³, and polystyrene is 150 kg/m³. Because the foam is less dense, physical forces cause it to deform, which lessens its ability to insulate against heat. As a result, it is more frequently employed when laying in between lags.

Cork

Because it is a natural material and oak bark is the primary raw material used in production, the product is pricey. produced in rolls and sheets, with the thickness being the only variation in the features.

Laying camping is:

• low thermal conductivity;
• water resistance;
• elasticity;
• light resistance;
• fire safety;
• resistance to temperature drops;
• Chemical impact resistance.

This substrate is the best choice if money is available because it conserves the heat resource.

Under mechanical influences, the material does not deform and is not seated. It doesn’t draw insects, nor does it grow mold on the traffic. The room’s height being stolen is the only drawback.

Mineral wool

A well-known kind of insulation that has improved fire protection. conveniently produced as plates, which makes installation easier. Even when installing on the ground, the beneficial coefficient of mineral wool increases several times in the presence of an aluminum substrate.

Because of its robust structure, the material is shielded from chemicals. It also effectively retains heat and muffles noise.

Notwithstanding the many benefits, there are drawbacks as well:

• Contains toxins and carcinogens;
• Mineral fibers are hygroscopic, require protection against humidity.

Foamed polyethylene

Foam is still widely used today for thermal insulation. The product is between 3 and 10 mm thick, and its surface is made of foil that has reflective qualities. You can do away with the waterproofing material thanks to this layer.

Polyethylene foam can:

• with one layer of foil – brand A;
• with two – in;
• self -adhesive (on one side of the foil, on the other, a self -adhesive base) – C;
• Combined (on top of foil, below a special film) – "Alp".

These insulation models are all excellent for setting up the foundation for a water-heated floor. It should be noted that the moisture absorption of this material results in a reduction of its thermal insulation qualities.

The process of building a base for warm floor

The warm floor fits on a different base, as was previously mentioned.

The features of the room must be considered when choosing the base type.

The most important thing to keep in mind when using screed is that, regardless of type, the thickness of the screed should be the same at the base and above the heated floor to avoid uneven surface warming.

Installation of the warm floor on the concrete base

A classic version of the water flooring diagram is shown in the cement-steering solution.

• Surface purification – after the concrete dries completely, the floor is cleaned of dust and treated with a primer.

• Installation of hydraulic and thermal insulation material. Thick polyethylene is suitable as waterproofing material. There can be any of the above materials with insulation. It is ideal to use polypropylene slabs with bobes, a heating element will be attached between them. If thermal insulation without a foil layer, then the reflective film is laid on top.

• Sticker of the damping tape – the entire perimeter of the room is glued to it. Its purpose is to prevent concrete cracking when heated. Deformation can lead to pipe damage, and failure of the system.

• The base for a heating device is ready, you can proceed to laying the pipeline. The heating element should be laid out according to the pre -prepared plan. Laying scheme can be a "snake" or "snail".

Following system testing and connection, a 5–10 cm thick concrete-cement mixture is poured into pipes. The flooring is mounted after the solution has dried.

The device is a half -dry screed

The heating element is then fixed to the creeping polyethylene film and insulation.

The installation of a semi-dry screed composition can now be done. Installing the beacons made from this solution in the shape of tiny piles the necessary height will accomplish this. All eyes are on these beacons, and the base is crowded. The mixture should rise three centimeters above the pipes at the same time.

Since it dries out faster in this instance than when pouring a "wet" concrete mixture, you can start using heating after two weeks.

Arrangement of dry screed

1. The perimeter of the room is glued with a ribbon made of foamed polyethylene.
2. A dry mixture is spilled onto the film – more often expanded clay or finished compositions. It serves simultaneously a heat -insulating layer, as it has good heat qualities. It is important that the mixture is absolutely dry.

1. GVL slabs are placed on top, in which the grooves are made for placing metal guides for the heater.

Laying pipes, putting the substrate in place, and installing the flooring are the remaining steps in building the "pie" of the heated floor.

Installation on the ground

It is essential to ascertain the groundwater passage level prior to installing the heating floor on the earth. One cannot move straight on to base preparation and warm floor installation until the groundwater problem has been resolved.

1. A layer of sand is poured, to the desired level, and tamped. When rammed, the sand is wetted.

1. Sewer pipes are laid – for this, marks are placed on the wall, the depth of the pipe falls will be determined on them. Focusing on them, grooves with a slope of 3 cm per 1 meter, in which the sewage system is laid. Trenches are also filled with sand.

1. Granite crushed stone is poured with a layer of 10 cm, it levels the surface and prevent water from entering the insulation. It also needs to be closed.

1. The litter is laid – geotextiles, it will prevent moisture penetration.

1. Wet sand falls asleep over it, it is well tamped and aligned.

1. Hydro and thermal insulation is mounted. Polyethylene in the overlap is creeping on the sand, insulation is put on top. Thermal insulation slabs are laid in a checkerboard pattern, and the joints are glued with tape.

1. Dampfer ribbon is glued – to avoid cracking of concrete.
2. The pipeline is placed – for this, the reinforcement is put on the insulation, to which the pipe will be attached. The heater is laid according to the planned scheme.

1. The final stage is a concrete screed (thickness 7 cm), which pipe pills. After its complete drying, the heating system is ready for work.

Nasty way

• vapor barrier is spread – polyethylene;

• The room is pasted with a damping tape – to protect against expansion when heated;

• Lags are mounted across the boards – the distance between them is at least 60 cm;

• The heat -insulating material between the lags is laid – mineral wool is suitable;

• The second waterproofing layer is spread, it must go through the lags in a stretch;
• The rails are nailed across the lag – the grooves between them depend on the step -by -step step;

• Metal plates are mounted in grooves, they are placed in the pipeline;

• This design is covered with gypsum -accommodation plates or sheets of chipboard, on which finishing material is laid.

Two layers of 10 mm thick GVL sheets and a second layer of polyethylene cover the mats. They already have the finish mounted on them.

What is the basis, what type of warm floor is suitable?

The features of the room should be considered when selecting the warm floor installation technology and base. A concrete screed is the best technique for heating systems (water or cable).

This option works well for installing floors in private homes, but it is not advised for wooden homes with flimsy ceilings because the design might not be able to handle the harshness of the solution.

The best choice for any kind of floor heating in homes or apartments with wooden ceilings is a flooring base. Pie is lighter, and setting up the base and installing the heating are quick and easy processes.

Ground installation is appropriate if you plan to equip warm floors yourself during the construction phase of a house.

Dry Screed	Half-Dry Screed
Placed on Insulation Material	Placed on Insulation Material
Suitable for Wooden Subfloors	Suitable for Wooden Subfloors
Requires Minimal Drying Time	Requires Minimal Drying Time
Good for Retrofitting	Good for Retrofitting
Allows for Easy Access to Underfloor Utilities	Allows for Easy Access to Underfloor Utilities

Selecting the appropriate base for your underfloor heating system is essential to guaranteeing its effectiveness and durability. There are various choices available, each with pros and cons of their own.

Dry and semi-dry screeds are popular options for many homeowners because of their comparatively quick and simple installation process. They can be installed over existing floors and distribute heat well, so less extensive renovation work is required. Nonetheless, to minimize energy loss and stop heat loss, adequate insulation is necessary.

Installing underfloor heating directly into the ground is a viable option for those who are starting from scratch. Using this method, the concrete floor slab is poured after trenches have been dug and heating pipes installed. It can be especially useful for retaining heat in colder climates and does not require additional screeding, but it does require careful planning and excavation.

With the staunch method, the heating pipes are fixed directly to the floor structure, usually with the help of insulating boards to reduce heat loss. Although this method might work well for some retrofitting projects, without the right setup and insulation, it can be difficult to distribute heat evenly throughout the floor surface.

Lastly, the heating system has excellent thermal conductivity and stability when it is embedded in a concrete base. This technique works especially well for newly constructed rooms where a sturdy floor is required. Nonetheless, to guarantee correct positioning and insulation of the heating elements, close attention to detail is necessary during the first stages of construction.

In summary, the budget, the intended amount of insulation, and the current structure all play a role in the warm floor system’s foundation selection. Insulation must come first when choosing a concrete base, staunch method, dry screed, or ground installation in order to maximize energy efficiency and guarantee long-term performance.

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