Open-type expansion tank with your own hands

Having an effective heating system is essential for maintaining a warm and cozy home. The expansion tank is one part of these systems that is frequently disregarded. This small gadget is essential to keeping your heating system operating smoothly, avoiding damage, and maintaining the right pressure levels.

Although there are many different kinds of expansion tanks, open-type expansion tanks are a simple and affordable option. With the correct instructions and supplies, you can make your own open-type expansion tank that is customized to meet the needs of your particular heating system.

The key to understanding the significance of an open-type expansion tank is knowing how it operates. In essence, these tanks let the water in the heating system expand and contract as it heats and cools. In the absence of appropriate expansion control, the system’s pressure can fluctuate greatly, which could harm valves, pipes, and other parts.

In addition to providing you more control over your heating system, building your own open-type expansion tank also makes you feel proud of yourself. You can build a dependable expansion tank that will improve the efficiency and lifespan of your heating setup by following a few easy steps and using easily found materials.

Materials Needed	Instructions
Steel Tank	Obtain a steel tank suitable for holding water pressure.
Pressure Gauge	Install a pressure gauge at the top of the tank to monitor pressure.
Air Valve	Attach an air valve to allow air to escape as the tank fills with water.
Pipe Fittings	Secure pipe fittings for connecting the tank to the heating system.
Mounting Bracket	Construct or purchase a sturdy mounting bracket to hold the tank securely.
Drain Valve	Add a drain valve at the bottom of the tank for easy maintenance.
Pressure Relief Valve	Include a pressure relief valve to prevent excessive pressure buildup.
Fill Valve	Attach a fill valve to allow for easy refilling of the tank as needed.

How to make an expansion heating tank with your own hands

• Open-type expansion tank
• Open cistern design
• Expansion tank of the closed type
• How to make a tank with your own hands
• List of tools and materials
• Technology of installation of the tank in the system

The majority of homes and apartments nowadays have a water heating system of their own. It is the owners’ responsibility to install and use this design correctly. Some individuals who did well in physics classes in school are aware that water has the ability to expand in volume when heated. Using expansion tanks is essential to lowering the water load on the pipes and the system as a whole. They are required to hold and remove surplus water. Every heating system, particularly closed systems, has a reserve capacity of its own.

You can construct an expansion tank on your own to heat the house. It is not necessary to place or operate this design properly.

When this reserve reaches its limit, it raises the hydraulic pressure and can cause the entire structure and equipment to collapse. It is imperative to delve deeper into the definition of an expansion tank, its primary classifications, and the membrane heating expansion tank’s operational principle.

A component of the water heating system is the expansion tank. It’s a vessel that can hold hot water that gets hotter. The apparatus is crucial. The main idea is that, for every degree Celsius that the water in the boiler is heated, the volume of the heated liquid increases by an average of 0.3%. After the water reaches 100°C, its volume ought to rise by roughly 3%.

Diagram showing the radiator, pipe, and expansion tank in an open heating system.

The principle of its operation is not complicated. So, the expansion tank performs such functions as: removal of excess water during heating in the drain, collection of water vapor and air, which are released in the boiler during its operation, replenishing the volume of water in case of its leakage or other emergencies, maintaining the necessary level of hydrostatic pressure. Scientists have proved that in a heating system with a water carrier there is a certain amount of air, on average 40 mg per 1 liter of liquid. But when heated, its solubility sharply decreases, and it can be released into the environment in the form of bubbles in the volume of about 90% of the original figures.

Open-type expansion tank

Prior to attaching an expansion tank. You must be aware of the various varieties, as well as their primary benefits and drawbacks. Tanks come in two varieties: open and closed. Installing the first one at the top of the riser pipe—that is, the pipe that goes straight to a building’s attic—is advised. Such an expansion tank can have a variety of shapes, including round, rectangular, and cylindrical. A thick sheet steel construction and an inspection-only lid on the upper portion are necessary for this type of cistern.

It is a common component of heating systems. The expansion tank has an anticorrosive layer covering it to prevent damage.

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The device of an open-type cistern

The expansion tank’s heating scheme of operation.

Multiple connections should be included in the open tank system for the expansion, overflow, circulation, and control pipes. The water enters the tank through the first one, the excess water is drained through the second, the water enters the heating system through the circulation pipe, and the control tube’s function is to eliminate air and adjust the pipe fill level. In the event that the water discharge needs to be repaired, a spare pipe is accessible. The spigot is a tiny pipe that allows air or water to be released from the main system.

A do-it-yourself expansion tank ought to have enough capacity to store about 4% of the total water volume flowing through pipes and appliances.

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Closed expansion tank

Plan for installing the pump on the heating network’s supply line.

In a heating system, the diaphragm type tank is used more often. It is a tank of cylinder or flat type, which inside is divided into 2 sections by a special membrane. The first is for liquid, the second for air. The principle of operation of the membrane cistern is more complicated. As the volume of incoming water in the system increases, the volume ratio of these two parts of the tank also changes. This is accomplished by the bending of the membrane. In the initial position, the entire tank is filled with air and the diaphragm is pressed down. As the water heats up and enters the pipes, the diaphragm begins to expand and the chamber ratio changes in volume.

The pressure within the air chamber rises. Once it reaches the upper limit of allowable values, the system’s operating plan incorporates a safety valve, which helps eliminate surplus air and lower system pressure. The ideal pressure range is between 3.3 and 4 bar. Filling the expansion tank to no more than 44% of its capacity is crucial for the membrane apparatus to function properly.

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How to make a tank with your own hands

The boiler device’s scheme.

Such a tank for water and air can be made with your own hands. The tank is made of carbon steel. Any container with a volume of 10-12 liters is suitable for this purpose. It should be taken into account that its capacity should be at least 4% of the total volume of water circulating in the system. The capacity of the container can be determined by pouring water into it using a three-liter jar. Metal flasks from paintwork materials can be used for the tank. It is very important that the wall thickness is at least 2.5 mm. Automobile fuel tanks are not quite suitable for this purpose, as their thickness is not very high. If you have available tanks of trucks, they will perfectly cope with the task set for them. The inner surface is covered with water-resistant paints and the outer surface with enamel. You can use a piece of pipe, but only with a large cross-section (20-30 cm). But the best option is a stainless steel tank from a washing machine. The tank can also be welded using a simple steel sheet with a thickness of 2.5-4 mm.

After the container is selected, it is necessary to clean it. If it contains residues of fuel and lubricants, it is necessary to remove them by evaporation with hot water, a brush. The container must dry out. After that it is necessary to weld the fittings. It is desirable to weld the plug on the side at a height of 4-10 cm from the bottom plane. This will contribute to the deposition of small particles, rust.They are needed to connect the tank to the pipes. The tank must be equipped with a bolted lid or a hatch. It is needed to be able to periodically clean the tank. In order to determine the water level in the tank, you can make a dipstick. For this purpose, a small airtight hole should be made in the tank.

Diagram showing the dimensions of the boiler parts for DIY manufacturing.

Next, a socket is made of steel in accordance with the diameter of the hole. If the connector is to be welded into the expansion tank, a screw plug made of brass or bronze will be required. It must necessarily have edges for a wrench. A 4-5 mm thick rubber gasket is put inside the plug. On the dipstick itself, divisions are applied and kept outside the tank. To check the water level, first unscrew the plug, lower the dipstick into the tank (the dipstick should be dry), pull it out and screw the plug back in again. The threads on the connector should be greased with grease or oil so that there are no problems with the opening. If the tank is built in the attic, it will need to be insulated. The outside and inside of the tank is covered with oil paint.

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List of tools and materials

The right set of tools are required to build a homemade tank. A bolgar, a metal file, a welding machine, a cistern container, a set of fittings, bolts, rubber gaskets, electrodes for welding, oil paint, oil, or grease, a brush, hot water, a pipe with a cross-section of 20–30 cm or steel sheets with a thickness of 2.5–4 mm, a brass or bronze plug, thermal insulation materials, a wrench, gloves, and a welding mask are among the items included.

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Technology of installing the tank in the system

Schematic illustration of the waste heat boiler’s parts.

To install a membrane or simple cistern, you will need to know the basic steps of its installation. First, you need to buy a container (tank) of the required volume, for example, 12-liter. With the help of a pump all the air is pumped out of it. After that, pump it again with air up to 1.1 kPa. It is very important that the pressure in the system is higher than in the tank, about 0,1-0,2 kPa. Then turn off the boiler from the network, close all the taps for water supply, drain the water from the batteries. To connect the tank to the pipes, you will need a soldering machine, couplings and fittings (devices for joining parts). The fitting consists of 2 parts: one is screwed to the thread on the tank, and the second is soldered to the pipe itself. It is recommended to place the tank where the pressure is minimal.

The pipe that carries water from the radiator to the gas boiler is suitable for this purpose. Then cut the pipe in the place of installation of the tank, solder to this part of the tee, and to it weld the pipe and stopcock (it is necessary for repair without draining the water). The corners are needed for soldering and so that the tank can be attached to it. After that connect the cistern by screwing on the second part of the fitting. It can be placed in the corner of the room. Next, unscrew and wash the water purification filter. Then open the taps and fill the radiators to a pressure of 1.2-1.3 kPa. Remove excess air, turn on the boiler for heating. The heating system is ready.

An important part of home insulation and heating systems that is sometimes disregarded is the open-type expansion tank. This tank, which you crafted by hand, is an essential component of keeping a well-balanced and effective heating system. It keeps pressure buildup at bay and ensures the longevity and safety of your heating system by permitting the expansion and contraction of water within the system. In addition to saving money, this do-it-yourself project helps homeowners better understand and care for their heating systems. Assuring better performance and peace of mind for years to come, building an open-type expansion tank at home becomes an accessible and satisfying project with simple-to-follow instructions and easily accessible materials.

Expansion tank for heating – types and installation

Any heating system should have components that can guard against hydrostroke, keep the coolant at the proper pressure, and adjust for variations in volume. This is the function of the expansion tank.

Why do you need an expansion tank for heating?

For normal functioning of the heating system and stable circulation of coolant through all its elements, a stable pressure is necessary. Its sudden jumps lead to disruption of the hydraulic regime and malfunction of individual components. To avoid this, an expansion tank is used in the system. Its task is to compensate for changes in the volume of the coolant (water or antifreeze) caused by changes in its temperature, to reduce the possibility of water hammer. The change in the volume of the thermal fluid is also influenced by its composition and therefore by the temperature coefficient. When using water, the value of this coefficient is on average 4%, in case of antifreeze, e.g. ethylene glycol – from 4.4 to 4.8% (depending on the concentration of glycol in antifreeze). The expansion tank is the tank where the excess coolant is discharged to maintain the required pressure in the network.

Different expansion tanks are used for different types of heating systems, whether they are closed or open. It should be mentioned right away that the open system, also known as a self-flowing system with natural circulation, is primarily found in older buildings and is not frequently utilized in new construction.

Tank in an open type heating system

In such a system, the coolant – simple water – moves naturally according to the laws of physics due to the different densities of cold and hot water. This is also facilitated by the slope of the pipes. Heat carrier, heated to a high temperature, at the outlet of the boiler tends upward, pushed out by cold water coming from the return pipe from below. This is how natural circulation occurs, which results in the heating of the radiators. In a self-flow system it is problematic to use antifreeze due to the fact that in the expansion tank the coolant is in an open state and evaporates quickly, therefore only water is used as a signaling agent. As it heats up, it increases in volume and the excess water flows into the tank and returns to the system when it cools down. The tank is located at the highest point of the circuit, usually in the attic. To prevent the water in it from freezing, it is insulated with insulation materials and connected to a return pipe to avoid boiling over. In case of overfilling the tank, the water is discharged into the sewer system.

The heating system is called "open" because the expansion tank is not covered by a lid. To prevent air plugs in the pipeline, which would cause the radiators to operate inefficiently, the water level in the tank needs to be kept an eye on. An expansion nozzle connects the tank to the network, and a circulation nozzle makes sure that water moves. The water enters the signal socket, which is installed, as the system fills up.

Pour some water. Water expansion is managed by the overflow spigot. It is in charge of allowing the air inside the tank to circulate freely. The volume of water in the system must be known in order to compute the volume of an open tank.

The tank in a closed system

A closed loop system is a self-contained heating system where a circulation pump powers the coolant. Its complete tightness and lack of coolant-environment contact are its peculiarities. Additionally, the expansion tank is sealed, preventing the heat transfer medium from coming into contact with the air.

Expansion tank design

The expansion tank is made of carbon steel with a powder-coated red, gray, or white exterior and an internal rubber diaphragm that resembles a balloon. Large tanks use the second, and small tanks use the first. Factory tanks may have a safety valve installed to prevent the system from building up pressure above what is allowed. The valve opens and the extra water is released if this occurs. It is best to ensure that your product has one and to be over-insured. You can purchase one and install it next to the tank if you don’t already have one.

Expansion tank with diaphragm type diaphragm. This device is more like a barrel, divided in two by a movable rubber partition. At the factory, air is pumped into the top of the tank to create initial pressure. After the tank is connected, coolant from the network begins to flow into its lower chamber. At the moment when the elastic diaphragm becomes in zero, calm position and as if lies on the surface of the coolant, the heating system is considered to be completely filled and ready for start-up. When the temperature of the coolant increases, its volume increases, and the excess is discharged into the expansion tank. Due to air compression, the diaphragm is pushed back into the air chamber, which makes the internal space of the tank larger and allows the excess coolant to flow into it. As soon as the heat transfer medium cools down and returns to its original volume, the effect on the diaphragm stops and the air in the upper chamber, without resistance, brings the diaphragm back to its original, calm position, thus automatically regulating the pressure in the system.

Tanks with cylinder-type diaphragm.

In this instance, the rubber coolant chamber is surrounded by the air chamber, which is situated around the outside of the entire tank. The latter begins to swell upon its arrival, akin to an inflated balloon. It is feasible to more precisely regulate the system pressure because of this tank device.

Note that diaphragm diaphragms cannot be replaced; however, balloon diaphragms can be changed out when they wear out. It is crucial to consider the material used to make the membrane. It should be extremely flexible and resistant to heat. It is important to be aware of the membrane’s durability, operating temperature, water resistance, and compliance with sanitary and hygienic standards when selecting a tank.

An illustration of the expansion tank schematic

How to calculate the volume of an expansion tank?

The expansion tank’s design does not call for any complicated technical solutions, but a mistake in the volume calculation could result in equipment failure and the heating system failing altogether. A tank that is too big would not be able to generate enough pressure in the network, while a tank that is too small would not be able to hold all of the excess coolant.

Finding the total volume of the heating network is essential for accurate calculation. Add the volume of the boiler, the total volume of the system’s pipes, and the volume of any additional heating devices to achieve this.

Formula for calculating the volume of the expansion tank:

KE stands for the overall heating system volume. Based on the equation that I kW of heating equipment capacity equals 15 liters of coolant volume, this indicator is computed. The entire volume of the system will be KE = 15 x 40 = 600 liters if the boiler output is 40 kW;

Z is the coolant’s temperature coefficient value. As previously stated, it ranges from 4.4 to 4.8% for water and from 4% to 4.8% for antifreeze at various concentrations, such as 10–20% ethylene glycol;

N is the membrane tank’s efficiency value, which is determined by the system’s starting and maximum pressures as well as the chamber’s initial air pressure. Usually, the manufacturer specifies this parameter, but if not, you can calculate it on your own using the following formula:

DV is the maximum pressure that the network is allowed to have. It typically equals the safety valve’s permissible pressure range and seldom rises above 2.5–3 atm for traditional residential heating systems;

DS is the membrane tank’s initial charging pressure, measured in millibars (atm) per kilometer of the heating system’s length.

Thus, at a boiler output of 40 kW, you can calculate the expansion tank’s volume using the data that was obtained:

600 x 0.04 / 0.57 equals 42.1 liters (K).

It is advised to use a 50-liter tank with an initial pressure of 0.5 atm. because the totals for the final product selection ought to be marginally higher than the totals that were computed. A small amount of extra tank capacity is preferable to a small amount of tank capacity. Additionally, experts recommend selecting a tank 50% larger than the calculated one when using antifreeze in the system.

Installation of the expansion tank

The expansion tank is situated on the return line next to the boiler for convenience of maintenance. It is frequently installed with the water spigot (inlet valve) facing downward. This allows the coolant to be drained even in the event of a membrane failure. Another viewpoint holds that the coolant ought to enter the tank from above. which is more accurate because it prevents air from entering the tank’s liquid-filled compartment.

It is preferable for the tank to be placed in front of the circulation pump to prevent head surges. It is attached to a return pipe to keep it from "boiling over," and installing a pressure gauge and a manual pressure adjustment valve is advised. Following installation, it’s important to make sure the device’s working pressure matches the required one. If not, you will need to pump the tank and bleed the air until the diaphragm’s pressure is acceptable.

The following are some of the most typical errors made when installing the expansion tank for heating:

• use of sealing materials not intended for this purpose. For example, a cheap PVC window sealant, designed for a completely different temperature regime. Initially the joints may have quite an attractive appearance, but at the start of the heating system such a seal will not withstand high temperatures. At the very least, you will then have to repair the leaks;
• Unfortunate installation location, when the tank is difficult to access;
• Incorrect calculation of the volume of the expansion tank or selecting it by eye.

When to use antifreeze

It’s not always a good idea to add antifreeze, which is simply water mixed with ethylene glycol, to the heating system.

Water that has been prepared correctly has a higher thermal conductivity than this.

However, there are some circumstances where using non-freezing liquid is required, such as when there’s a chance the heating pipes will be exposed to below-freezing temperatures.

This can happen if the mains are run outside (from the house to the garage, for example) or if the system is left inactive for an extended amount of time during the winter. Heaters and pipes will undoubtedly burst when water turns from a liquid to a solid state.

Pressure fluctuations in the heating system

Pressure surges are a sign of a faulty or malfunctioning heating system. If the pressure drops. In this case, check the static pressure behavior by stopping the pump. If it does not drop, it means that the circulation pumps are malfunctioning and for some reason cannot create water pressure. If the static pressure also decreases, there is most likely a leak somewhere in the pipelines of the house or in the heat exchanger of the boiler (which happens quite often). This can be found by disconnecting different sections and monitoring the pressure in the system. If at the next cutoff the situation normalizes, therefore, on this section of the network and water leakage occurs. If the pressure rises. There can be several reasons for this.

1. The disruption or lack of coolant flow through the circuit is one of the common causes. This may occur when the house heating regulator shuts off the boiler house’s coolant supply to lower the network temperature. In this situation, the regulator’s inertia will increase, so it is necessary to check and adjust the settings to prevent it from giving the order to fully close the valves. However, such situations will not always occur.

2. The system might be constantly recharging itself is another explanation. A straightforward calculation demonstrates that the pressure increases with the amount of heat transfer medium in a given volume. In this instance, simply cutting the supply line and adjusting the automatics will suffice.

3. The improper pipe diameter selection may also be the cause. At the boiler outlet pipe, it should be at its highest point.

4. The circulation pump’s increased capacity or operational issues could be the root of the issue.

5. It’s possible that a gate valve or valve is blocked somewhere along the heating medium’s flow if there are no issues with the control devices or if the heating system doesn’t turn them on at all.

Diaphragm types for expansion tanks

The type of rubber used in the construction of the expansion tank diaphragm directly affects its lifespan. The most widely used type of rubber worldwide is SBR. To mention shoe soles and car wheel chambers would be sufficient. Its mechanical properties are good, and it has an 800% stretch capacity. Range of resistance to temperature: -50 to 100 "C. This rubber is only used for the expansion tanks of the heating network because it is unsuitable for use in systems that contain drinking water. The material ages, becomes less elastic, and degrades quickly at temperatures higher than 100 degrees Celsius.

Rubber MR (BUTILE)

With an operating temperature range of -40 to 130 °C, this type of rubber exhibits increased resistance to high temperatures. Drinking water may come into contact with the substance. For hydraulic accumulators, use this.

Rubber EPDM It has a strong resistance to aging and degradation, making it appropriate for systems that contain drinking water. Temperature range for operation: -50 to 130 "C. Since this is a fairly costly product that satisfies all hygienic and sanitary requirements, top manufacturers use this kind of rubber to make the diaphragms for their expansion tanks.

An enhanced form of EPDM rubber is called NBR (NITRILE) rubber.

It can function at temperatures as high as 100 "C and is also employed in the membrane-making process. resistant to oils, vegetable fats, butane, propane, gasoline, and antifreeze.

Pressure in the heating system

Mains pressure results from several factors. It characterizes the impact of the coolant on the walls of the system elements. Before filling with water, the pressure in the pipes is 1 atm. However, as soon as the process of filling the coolant begins, this indicator changes. Even when the heat transfer medium is cold, there is pressure in the pipeline. The reason for this is the different location of the elements of the system – with an increase in height by 1 m adds 0.1 atm. This type of influence is called static, and this parameter is used when designing heating networks with natural circulation. In a closed heating system, the coolant expands during heating and overpressure builds up in the pipes. Depending on the design of the main line, it can vary in different sections, and if at the design stage do not provide stabilizing devices, there is a risk of system failure.

There are no pressure standards for autonomous heating systems. Its value is calculated depending on the parameters of the equipment, the characteristics of the pipes, also take into account the floor of the house. It is necessary to follow the rule that the value of pressure in the network should correspond to its minimum value in the weakest link of the system. It is also necessary to remember about the obligatory difference of 0.3-0,5 atm. between the pressure in the direct and return pipes of the boiler, which is one of the mechanisms for maintaining normal circulation of the coolant. Taking all this into account, the pressure should be between i .5 to 2.5 atm. To control the pressure at different points in the network, pressure gauges are installed, which record the low and excessive values. In the event that the meter should not only serve for visual control, but also work with the automation system, use electric contact or other types of sensors.

1. The density of heated water is less than that of cold water. The difference in these values leads to the creation of hydrostatic pressure, pushing hot water to the radiators
2. The most informative values for expansion tanks are the maximum allowable temperature and pressure values.
3. According to manufacturers, in modern tanks, the temperature of the coolant can reach 120 "C, and the operating pressure up to 4 atm. at peak values of up to 10 bar

Expansion tank with their own hands (homemade) – video

DIY expansion tank

How to make an expansion tank for heating with your own hands?

A skillfully installed heating system allows households to enjoy warmth and comfort in their homes during the chilly winter months when there is frost outside the windows. The heating scheme provides a set of interconnected elements that are what give the system stability and dependability. Among these are heating system expansion tanks, which are crucial to the lifespan and uninterrupted operation of the circuit.

Why you need an expansion tank?

People who are not even close to the ideas of heat engineering and hydraulics from school desks are aware of the change in liquid volume during heating or cooling. The water heating scheme should include an expansion tank for easy DIY heating, allowing the owner to avoid spending money on a ready-made tank and prevent leaks and pressure surges caused by heating the coolant in the circuit.

• thermal expansion compensation;
• stabilization of pressure gauge readings;
• prevention of water hammer and sudden pressure surges;
• venting of air from the circuit;
• protection of heating devices against leaks and tightness failure due to high pressures.

Calculation of the physical dimensions of the device

In order for the expansion tank heating system to effectively execute its assigned tasks, the owner needs to ensure that this component matches the calculated parameters. Heating engineers can assist with the tank calculation; they will consider all system operating parameters and make recommendations regarding the type of expansion tank required for heating a specific building. However, the homeowner is able to perform the required calculations by themselves.

The owner must be aware of the following factors in order to determine the type of expansion tank for heating that should be installed in the system:

1. total volume of water in the circuit;
2. nominal pressure;
3. temperature range of the circuit.

The volume that the heated water produces must then be determined. Based on the knowledge that coolant expands by 5% when heated from 20 to 80 degrees, you can proceed. A further five percent is added as a reserve in addition to these five percent.

To account for expansion equal to a tenth of the water volume in the circuit, an expansion tank needs to be installed in the heating system.

The owner can easily ascertain the expansion tank’s physical dimensions if they know how much volume is required for heating.

Nuances of making an open-type cistern on their own

Independent adjustments can be made to open expansion tanks for heating, for which the manufacturer provides instructions at the time of purchase. It should be known that systems with both forced and natural coolant circulation can utilize the heating system’s open expansion tank. If the owner decides to construct an open expansion tank for heating by hand, they will have to decide on the product’s format. Specifically, the tank may be round or rectangular in shape.

Selecting a rectangular tank shape results in a less complicated manufacturing process. Systems with a lot of coolant can use this kind of device because the tank’s design permits you to add more reinforcements to the outside walls.

To complete the task, the owner will require the following inventory:

• tape measure;
• bolgar;
• welding machine;
• consumables (medium-thick stainless steel sheet or other durable metal, as well as spigots);
• schematic representation of the tank with dimensions.

When the owner has all the tools and supplies needed, they can get to work. He must first mark the sheet metal and then cut blanks for the tank out of it using a bolgar and a cutting wheel. At this point, it is worthwhile to proceed methodically and steadily; it is crucial to remember to clean the edges of each workpiece and to complete the task with care.

The preparation of all the blanks makes it possible to begin welding. At this point, the owner can also weld the attachment of the heating expansion tank, which will hold the element in place at the top of the circuit, in addition to joining the five main blanks that make up the walls of the rectangular open cistern.

It is required to drill a hole at the bottom of the prepared tank, the diameter of which should match the internal cross-section of the branch pipe that connects the expansion tank to the heating circuit. Strength and dependability are ensured by the spigot’s ability to be fixed with a flange connection or welded to the tank.

The cistern is typically installed in the attic or within the attic. The expansion tank needs to be insulated in order to prevent water from freezing in the heating system’s unheated installation location. It is advised to use contemporary, non-combustible insulation materials to insulate the tank. You can now consider the process of making the cistern yourself finished.

For your home heating system, building an open-type expansion tank can be a satisfying project that will provide you a sense of accomplishment and financial savings. You can build a tank that perfectly fits into your current setup and meets your unique needs by following the instructions provided in this guide.

The simplicity of an open-type expansion tank is one of its main benefits. An open tank functions on a simple principle: as water heats up and expands, it is released into the tank, preventing pressure buildup in the system. This is in contrast to closed systems, which necessitate intricate pressure-relief valves and maintenance procedures.

Making your own expansion tank also enables you to customize it to meet the specific needs of your house. To guarantee optimum performance, you can modify the size and capacity of the tank, regardless of the size of your property—whether it’s a larger property with several heating zones or a tiny, single-story home.

Moreover, building an open-type expansion tank can be a more affordable option than buying a prefabricated one. You can save costs and still get dependable results by utilizing easily accessible materials and basic construction methods.

In conclusion, building an open-type expansion tank is a useful and satisfying project for your home heating system. You can take advantage of lower maintenance costs, increased efficiency, and cost savings by tailoring a tank to your requirements. With the advice in this article, you’ll be ready to take on this do-it-yourself project with assurance.

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