One -pipe heating system of a private house with your own hands

Organizing your home’s heating system is a crucial issue during construction, renovation, overhaul, and other related processes.P. Careful attention to this matter is warranted even in the case of purchasing a completed suburban building. And in order to do this, you must be aware of the various kinds of heating systems that are currently in use, as well as their benefits and drawbacks.

Installing a manual one-pipe heating system in a private home

Water is still the most popular heating medium overall, with pipes transferring heated liquid coolant from the boiler to warm floor circuits, convectors, and radiators. The amount of work required to create a true alternative, given the bulk of such a system, can only be evaluated in accordance with the collaborative criteria "price availability – efficiency – efficiency" until none exists. Well, one-pipe systems are already the most straightforward to operate of all the water systems. This publication will cover the planning and installation of a single-pipe heating system for a private home by hand.

Which distinguishes a single -pipe heating system

One can probably infer the primary characteristic of a one-pipe heating system just by looking at the name.

Here, the coolant circulation is arranged around a single trunk pipe that forms a ring and starts and ends at a heating boiler. This pipe serves as the sequential or parallel path for all heating radiators.

An illustration of a standard single-pipe heating system

It’s easy to tell the difference between an externally visible single-pipe and two-pipe system by simply observing the heating radiator.

This is a single-pipe system despite the variations in how the radiators are connected.

All of this is applicable to single-pipe wiring, even though the figure shows a variety of batteries connected. The radiators are arranged in options "A" and "B" in a sequential manner, with the pipe appearing to go through each one. The batteries in options "B" and "G" are positioned parallel to the pipe. However, every radiator "rest" has an entrance and an exit on a single shared highway.

To facilitate comprehension and provide clarity, we provide a two-pipe scheme:

Examples of battery connections to two-pipe systems

Any battery insert scheme must always have the feed line as its entrance and the "Retail" pipe as its output.

See a special article on our portal to learn more about what a two-story house’s two-pipe heating system is.

Even someone with no prior experience designing heating systems will probably be able to understand the primary disadvantage of a single-pipe scheme right away. After warming up in the boiler and moving through the designated radiators one after the other, the coolant cools down and drops in temperature in each succeeding battery. If you compare the first heat transfer point in the "chain" that is closest to the boiler room with the very last one, you will notice a particularly noticeable difference.

This disadvantage can be somewhat mitigated by using some techniques, which are detailed below.

The advantages of a single -pipe system

Nevertheless, the heating system’s single-pipe scheme is very well-liked because of these benefits:

• Such wiring requires a minimum amount of material – (you can safely talk about about 30 – 40% saving on pipes).
• Based on the first paragraph – the scale of the installation work ongoing work is significantly smaller.
• The wiring scheme is simple, and therefore most owners who have certain skills in plumbing work will be able to cope with the task of independent installation.
• The one -pipe system is extremely reliable – once correctly mounted and debugged, it will not demand interference in her work for many years. In this case, no complex adjusting units or equipment are required.
• Such a system is quite universal, and if desired, it can be mounted both in a one -story house and at several levels, of course, somewhat changing the required equipment and adapting the connection scheme.

There is just one pipe that runs across the floor; it is not particularly eye-catching and is simple to embellish.

• The main pipe always runs along the floor (with the exception of options with risers that will be considered below). Such a location makes it possible to decorate the pipe without any special costs, for example, closing it, after appropriate thermal insulation, finish flooring. Yes, and, in the end, one low pipe is not so striking, and hiding it is always easier than two.

Disadvantages of a single -pipe heating scheme

Industrial buildings, both public and residential, were actively constructed using single-pipe heating systems. The ease of installation and economical material consumption were highly valued by builders, so the system’s shortcomings were largely overlooked. However, the "disadvantages" of the one-pipe system are something you will need to be aware of and consider when building privately, as they are fairly important.

• The main thing has already been mentioned – in the most simplified form of wiring it is impossible to achieve equality of the temperature of the coolant in all batteries of the circuit. One of the outputs is to gradually increase the number of sections from the room to the room as they move away from the boiler in order to achieve equal heat transfer by increasing the area of active heat transfer. But at the same time, of course, it will be difficult to talk about saving on materials – radiators can cost much more than pipes.

There are additional techniques for aligning temperature; these will be discussed below.

• If a heating system with natural circulation is planned, then you can encounter difficulties in planning to comply with the mandatory required slope of the pipes. With a single -pipe system, the highway is located along the floor, and if the room is quite spacious, or the perim of the health has a greater length, then it is sometimes simply impossible to cope with such a task.

In conclusion, only small buildings that are small in terms of building area are appropriate for a single pipe system with natural circulation. If not, installing the circulation pump will become required. However, many contemporary heating boilers already have an integrated circulation unit, so install the pump now and hug whenever possible.

• A single -pipe system completely eliminates the insertion into it, in addition to heating radiators, the contours of the “warm floors”. If in the future the owners suggest in any of the premises to organize water heating of the floor, then it is better to immediately mount a two-pipe system.

See more about O in this portal’s special article:

Wiring schemes of a single -pipe heating system

A single-pipe system’s overall shape typically runs parallel to the floor and along the outside walls of the building (or with the necessary slope). However, the circuitry included in this design of heating radiators might differ. Think about your options, ranging from the most straightforward to the most sophisticated and successful.

The general numbering of the nodes will remain from figure to figure, indicating only the newly emerging elements, since the basic scheme of wiring pipes and general equipment does not change.

Details regarding the operation of the heating system’s hydraulic arrow might be of interest to you.

The simplest schemes

A. The most basic single-pipe system wiring:

The simplest and least ideal choice

Here are the numbers displayed in the diagram:

1. A boiler for heating. The main feed pipe ascends from the boiler (poses. 2). An expansion tank is installed at the top of the wiring because the scheme allows for the option of an open-type single-pipe heating system (pos. 3).

Costs associated with various kinds of heating boilers

Heating boilers

In the event that the system operates on the basis of natural circulation, the "Accelerated collector," or starting area, is necessary for single-pipe wiring (pos. 4). He adds another pulse to the fluid circulation through the pipes to keep the coolant from stagnating in the system. This accelerated manifold is at least 1.5 meters high above the first radiator (h 1).

In the most basic layout, the heating radiators themselves (pos. 5) are arranged in a sequential manner starting from the lower connection of the entrance and exit on the opposing sides. It is evident that a slope is followed when installing a pipe to guarantee natural circulation (brown arrows indicate this). Additionally, it is important to note the excess of the final radiator in the chain above the heating boiler (h 2). Boiler houses are typically installed in basements or on artificial flooring at the location of the device because the larger this value, the better. The ideal range for H is between two and three meters.

Installing a pump unit will prevent all of these issues (pos. 6). It consists of the pump itself (pos. 7), a bypass (jumper), and a crane system (pos. 8), which enable the conversion, if required, from forced circulation to natural circulation (for instance, in a construction site where power supply outages are frequent).

It is advised to bind a circulation pump.

One more thing that must be included is the option to remove air plugs that may build up at the top of the radiators. The batteries are put on the batteries in order to accomplish this (pos. 9).

Mayevsky’s crane is on the left. Correct: an automated air vent

They might be Maevsky’s cranes, which would occasionally unscrew to release air. Automatic air vents that operate without human assistance are an older option.

Maevsky crane costs

Maevsky crane 1/2

This type of radiator connection diagram is the simplest because it addresses every drawback of a single-pipe system to the fullest. There’s an inherent difference in temperature between the circuit’s first and last radiators.

B. The only improvement in this scheme is that the radiators are connected by diagonals, as indicated by the purple arrows.

Radiators’ heat transfer is increased by diagonal connections.

The coolant’s passage through the battery helps to maximize thermal energy return and improve the uniformity of all sections’ heating. However, it goes without saying that there will be a greater temperature difference between the first and last radiators. Additionally, with a battery insert scheme like this, the chances of the coolant naturally circulating are greatly reduced, and in most cases, it becomes impossible with a long general circuit. Therefore, it will be impossible to function without a circulation unit.

IN. An open or closed system with forced circulation is better suited for this kind of wiring. An alternative with a sealed expansion tank is depicted in the diagram below.

The most straightforward plan, but with forced circulation in a closed system

In this instance, the pump is cut straight into the trunk pipe, though it is still possible to preserve the wound of the indicated scheme of its binding. The membrane type expansion tank (pos. 10), which is typically placed on a "return" close to the boiler (there is no regulation here; the best location is chosen based on layout and ease of use) is the primary distinction. The "security group" (pos.11), which consists of an automatic air vent, a manometer for visual control, and a safety valve intended for a specific system limit pressure value, is the second required component.

Gathered in a single "Security Group" building.

In the future, only a closed system with forced circulation will be displayed when examining the schemes. This is only done to keep the drawings from becoming overly cluttered with lines. However, the option to have an open or closed expansion tank with forced, natural, or combined circulation is always available to the home’s owner.

All three of the presented schemes share a single, significant drawback. It consists of the system’s temporary total inactivation upon the failure and emergency disassembly of any of the radiators, as the outline is ripped.

Thus, if the decision has already been made to install a single-pipe heating system, the "Leningradka," which gives you more adjustment options and helps you avoid many typical drawbacks, should be considered.

A modernized version of a one -pipe heating system – Leningradka

Where did this well-known name, "Leningrad," originate? Maybe it was in the capital up north where the experts at the Research Institute devised the technical specifications for this kind of heating system. It’s possible that some Leningrad construction companies were the first to "go on stream" with such a plan at the outset of the nation’s massive residential construction boom. Nevertheless, Leningradka was created for mass construction, both high-rise and low-rise. Its design, which is simple to install and economical in material consumption, makes it possible to use thermal energy for large-scale heating contour extensions quite successfully.

The primary distinction between "Leningradka" is that each radiator’s entrance and exit are connected via a bypas jumper. Alternatively, taps can be made to the entrance and exit of each battery from the trunk pipe.

Get around the costs

Bypass

The figure depicts the schematic diagram of Leningradka.

"Leningradka" is the fundamental diagram of a single-pipe system.

To varying degrees, radiators that are farther away from the heating boiler can have their heat distributed more evenly thanks to the bypass (pos. 12). The system will remain effective even if the coolant current is cut off through any battery (for instance, due to a blockage or the formation of an air cork).

The proposed plan depicts Leningradka in its most basic form, devoid of any adjustable features. Because it was frequently used in the past, skilled artisans were already aware of the approximate bypass diameter needed on a given battery to maximize temperature throughout. Therefore, you can lower the total number of batteries in the boiler room remote from the boiler room by just slightly increasing the number of pipes.

You might be curious to know more about the operation of the bypass line.

The identical choice, but with batteries inserted diagonally to enhance overall heat transfer:

The same, but with the batteries connected diagonally

That’s not all, though. First off, it’s really challenging to determine the diameter of the jumper for every battery on your own. Furthermore, this particular scheme does not currently allow for the disassembly of any individual radiator without going against the isolation of the entire contour. As a result, it is recommended to use the updated Leningradka version:

A contemporary circuit featuring taps and adjustable valves

In this version, cranes surround each radiator on both sides (pos. 13). You can "cut off" the battery from a common pipe at any time. For instance, you could do so if you need to disassemble or replace the battery or if the room is temporarily without heat. There is no breach of the system’s operation.

An illustration of how to connect a radiator using ball valves that shut off

Generally speaking, these taps can also be used to change the radiator’s temperature by raising or lowering the coolant current.

However, installing ball valves here would make more sense. These valves are primarily made to function in two states: "open" and "closed." Additionally, a needle balancing valve installed on a bypass will be used for adjustment (pos. 14).

The identical plan has a diagonal link:

Installing radiators is possible, so

But the picture shows such a connection:

"Leningradka" is connected to the radiator.

• Blue arrows – shut -off ball valves at the entrance and at the output of the radiator.
• Green Strelka – Balancing valve.

With such an updated Leningradka system, it is possible to mount the system using the designated sections, or branches, rather than a single looped contour, if needed. You can arrange wiring, for instance, in a two-story building or a home with side additions or "wings."

"Leningradka," along with an extra branch diagram

In this instance, the insert into the reverse pipe (pos. 17) and the main pipe (pos. 16), which leads to an additional heating circuit, are layered together. Additionally, it is advised to install a second needle adjusting valve (pos. 18) on the "return" of an additional contour (pos. 15). This will allow you to balance the joint work of both branches.

A two-story building can also have a different option. It will make sense to implement the vertical riser system if the general layout of the premises matches.

System of vertical risers

Inter-story ceiling: 19.

20 – the boiler pipe.

21 – "Retail" Pipe.

22. Riser systems, which comprise Leningradka-style radiators with movable bypas.

There is one noteworthy instance, though, right here. The idea of a single-pipe system governs how each runoff is arranged (highlighted in green). However, when we look at the system as a whole, we can see that the risers are already part of the two-pipe system because they are all connected in parallel to the return and the feed pipe (highlighted in brown). The benefits of both systems are thus harmoniously combined.

Video: Heating system "Leningradka"

Here is some information about bimetallic heating radiators that might be of interest to you.

Planning of the heating system

Any heating system’s initial planning must consider a number of subtle factors that have a direct impact on the system’s effectiveness. Making the right selections regarding the primary components—the boiler, radiators, contouring pipes, expansion tank, and circulation pump—is crucial. A similar calculation should ideally be left to the experts. However, being able to navigate through such situations and grasp the fundamentals will always be helpful.

What a boiler is required ?

The boiler’s primary need is that it have enough thermal power to completely guarantee the heating system’s efficiency, which includes maintaining the necessary temperature in every heated room and making up for any inevitable heat loss.

Types of heating boilers will not be covered in detail in this publication. Every homeowner makes a different choice depending on a variety of factors, including the cost and availability of energy, whether or not a boiler room can be equipped, the storage of fuel, and their ability to pay for a specific piece of equipment.

However, the boiler’s power is the fundamental factor that is required to build a sensible and efficient heating system.

The MASU guidelines for the most basic self-esteem of the necessary power are available. It is generally advised to start at a ratio of 100 watts per square meter of living space. But this method only provides an approximation of the value. Agree that neither the unique characteristics of the premises nor the variations in the local climate are taken into consideration here. As a result, we suggest employing a more precise methodology.

Its main function is to figure out how much thermal energy each room needs. After shaking the outcome, you can then determine the boiler power minimum needed to heat the entire house.

Create a small table first, listing all of your home’s properties along with their specifications. Each owner undoubtedly has a building plan, and given his knowledge of his "possessions," he will undoubtedly take some time to complete it. Here’s an illustration:

room	Square, apt. m	outer or balcony door	external walls, the amount where they look	windows, quantity and type	The size of the windows	required for heating, kW
Total:	18.7 kW
hallway	6	1	1, p	–	–	2.01
kitchen	eleven	–	1, c	2, double -glazed window	120 × 90 cm	1.44
living room	18	1	2, yu.H	2, double -glazed window	150 × 100 cm	3.35
Sleeping	12	–	1, c	1, double -glazed window	120 × 90 cm	1.4
Children"s	14	–	1, s	1, double -glazed window	120 × 90 cm	1.49
so on all rooms	..

Once the data is ready, use the calculator below to determine how much thermal energy each room will require. It’s very easy to enter the data into the table. The only thing left to do is create all of the values.

Calculation calculator of the required thermal power

The least amount received will dictate which of the model series that is offered for sale is selected. It is recommended to allocate approximately 10 · 15% of the power reserve.

Type and number of heating radiators

A person lacking experience in these matters can concentrate on a modern wide range of radiators. How should the issue of selecting heat transfer devices be approached, and how many will be needed?

What information about heating radiators is crucial to know? Only these issues are covered in a special publication that is posted on the shem portal and illuminates a number of subtleties. Furthermore, the article’s calculator will make it simpler to quickly and precisely calculate how many heating batteries are required for each room.

Pipes for the heating system

Here, there are additional options available. Metal, plastic, or metal-plastic pipes can be used to create heating. Every option has benefits and drawbacks of its own. Presenting this in tabular form will make it easiest to compare and make the best decision.

Illustration	The advantages of pipes	Flaws
Ordinary "black" steel pipes VGP
	High strength to external mechanical influences	Require external anti -corrosion protection
	The ability to withstand high values of the coolant pressure	For the same reason, corrosion vulnerability – demanding on the purity of the coolant
	relatively small linear thermal expansion	Complex installation – welding, thread cut, bending, etc.P.
	High temperature resistance	Large mass, complicating both delivery and installation
	High price compared to polymer pipes
Stainless steel pipes
	Retain all the positive qualities of steel pipes	The cost of pipes and shaped parts to them is very high
	Not subject to corrosion, much more durable	Due to the features of the metal, processing and installation is much more complicated and more expensive than that of ordinary steel
	Outwardly look much more aesthetic.
Copper pipes
	The highest resistance to temperature differences (from negative to extremely high, up to 500 ° C) and pressure, to hydraulic lines	The most expensive of all options – both in the pipes themselves and in components
	The life of the operation with a competently carried out installation is practically not limited
	Original, aesthetic appearance
	Installation – much easier than with any steel pipes
Metal -plastic pipes
	Aesthetic appearance	Afraid of freezing
	Smooth surface of the inner channel	The period of guaranteed service is small – usually not more than 10 ÷ 15 years
	Corrosion resistance, quite acceptable thermal resistance for heating systems	With a low cost of pipes themselves – a fairly large price for fittings and other components
	Simplicity of installation – you can do with a standard home set of tools	The likelihood of wall strata is not excluded, especially with impaired installation technology.
	Small linear thermal expansion
	The possibility of bending in compliance with precautions
Polypropylene pipes
	Material – the easiest of the heating systems used for systems	High linear expansion coefficient
	The service life is large enough: 25 or more years	Inconsistency to ultraviolet rays
	Smooth inner surface	At temperatures above 90 °, deformation and destructive of the material may begin
	Destability to freeze	The impossibility of giving curved forms – it is always necessary to install an additional curly element
	Installation – is completely simple, can be mastered by any master in a matter of hours	Violations of welding technology often lead to narrowing the diameter of the passage in the places of joints
	Outwardly look very aesthetically pleasing	For installation, a special tool is required – a soldering iron for PP
	The cost of both the pipes themselves and the components to them are low
Pipes made of stitched polyethylene Reh
	High degree of resistance to temperature and pressure drops	The cost of both the pipes themselves and the components to them is quite high
	High density of the material	Installation requires a special professional class tool
	Plasticity – during installation of the pipe, you can give the required configuration	Ultraviolet instability
	Linear expansion coefficient is small
	In the presence of the necessary components and tools, installation is simple.
	Connecting nodes are of the highest reliability

Therefore, any of the pipe types could work with the heating system that is being evaluated. But there are a few subtleties to consider:

• If the planned temperature in the heating circuit is above 70 degrees, then it is better to abandon the use of polymer pipes (this is especially true for polypropylene, to a lesser extent – reh).
• The strapping of a solid fuel boiler is always carried out exclusively by metal pipes.
• If it is decided to carry out wiring according to the scheme with natural circulation and an open expansion tank, then the optimal solution will be the choice of steel pipes with their open location.
• If there is a desire to remove the contour in the walls, then stainless steel, polypropylene (pipe) or reh are used. It is permissible to use metal-plastic, but exclusively with press fots (threaded to clean into the walls or on the floor is prohibited). In any case, when pipe -to -pipe isolation, their isolation from the chemical effects of cement -containing solutions should be provided. In addition, the possibility of linear expansion during temperature fluctuations should be taken into account, and thermal insulation is performed to prevent heat loss to unnecessary heating of the walls of walls or floor.

It is challenging to make recommendations regarding pipe diameters because this parameter primarily depends on the unique features of the heating system. The best course of action in this situation would be to make an appeal to an accomplished master who has personally amassed a number of systems and is well-versed in many subtleties.

Information about setting up a private home’s heating system without gas may be of interest to you.

Circulation pump

The above image illustrates how to tie the circulation. It is now preferable to focus on selecting the appropriate device.

It is obvious that 220 in of power should be applied to the pump. These devices usually have relatively small power supply consumption, which has little effect on the overall cost of electricity. Consequently, in this instance, the power parameter is not a key.

The significance of the other two parameters is far greater.

• Firstly, this is the performance of the pump, that is, its ability to move the required amount of coolant per unit of time. The initial values for calculating are the coefficient of water, the power of the heating boiler and the temperature difference on the feed pipe and in the return at the entrance to the boiler .

We provide the use of a unique calculator to perform calculations:

Calculation calculator of circulation pump

– The boiler’s power has already been determined above.

– Depending on the heat transfer devices being used, the temperature difference may vary (radiators, convectors, warm floors).

– The program has already been updated with the tabular value of water’s heat capacity.

• Secondly, it is very important to know what water column pressure should produce a circulation pump. The pressure created by him should be enough to ensure a stable current of the coolant along the entire length of the created circuit, and to overcome the hydraulic resistance of the pipes and shut-off-regulating reinforcement.

The calculation’s starting points are:

– the overall length of all the heating system’s pipes, including the bypasses, nozzles, feed and return pipes, etc.

– the pipes’ coefficient of hydraulic resistance, which represents the average pressure loss per unit of length in numerical form. In this case, taking an average value of 150 p/m is quite acceptable, since it is assumed that the system will be mounted from new pipes with a smooth, not overgrown inner surface.

– Finally, the resistance of shut-off valves and fittings must be considered. If you take the coefficient 1.3 value, there won’t be a significant error because single-pipe systems are typically not overloaded with thermostatic equipment and regulatory two- or three-way taps. Raising the coefficient to 1.7, though, is preferable if it is installed somewhere because the additional supply of the generated pressure won’t cause a problem.

A calculator that accounts for these indicators can be found below.

Calculation calculator of the required pressure of the circulation pump

Expansion tank

There are numerous options for an expansion tank in the event that an open-type heating system is panoked. Some owners purchase pre-made tanks that have been prepared from sheet metal. Old containers, such as barrels or cups, are used for these functions and are crashed into in order to connect to the system. You can even use an old plastic canister for a large container.

The most important factor is that the factory or makeshift tank’s capacity matches the amount of coolant in the system, which is typically between 10% and 15%. Even though the tank shouldn’t be hermetically sealed, using a lid can help reduce the amount of fluid that escapes into the atmosphere. A sensible fix would be to install a pipe that prevents overflow during system filling or coolant expansion during the initial start; any excess will just be arranged and visible.

The figure depicts a basic extension of the open expansion tank.

Building a tank like this on your own is simple and easy.

1-a detachable lid

2-brackets to be fastened in the designated location.

3-the aperture through which the heating system is inserted.

4-an overflow pipe, to which a hose can be connected to direct extra water to the ground or the sewer.

A membrane-type sealed expansion tank is an additional item. In this case, more careful parameter selection and computation are required.

How should one go about selecting an expansion tank? It makes sense to refer the reader to our portal’s special publication, which goes into great detail on this subject, in order to prevent duplication. In addition, a calculation calculator is installed in an expansion tank for a closed-type heating system.

Features of the installation of a one -pipe heating system

• They begin to work "from the stove" – that is, from the installation of the boiler in a pre -prepared place for it. In the overwhelming number of cases, this work should be performed by a specialist, especially if the equipment is purchased by a new one, and a factory warranty is valid on it.
• The most important stage is marking. Should be in advance to determine the locations of the radiators. Moreover, there is an important feature – in a single -pipe system on one floor, all radiators should be accurately placed at a single height. So, you will have to work either with a laser or water level in order to achieve uniformity in all rooms.
• The closed contour of the pipes connecting radiators is made with a slope. If the natural circulation of the coolant is supposed, then the slope should withstand at least 1% (1 cm per linear meter). With non -appropriate circulation, this value can be reduced – to 0.3 – 0.5%, but it should not be made strictly horizontal – a single -pipe system is already oversaturated with “lying” areas, and normal circulation needs to be helped.

Installing and labeling the main pipe

• If necessary, a vertical riser is made from the heating boiler to an open expansion tank and an accelerated manifold – they have already been described in the article.
• Radiators are hung in marked places. Perhaps they should not completely remove the factory film packaging from them so as not to damage during installation work. According to the placed radiators, marking of the pipes of their inserts into the main pipe is made. After that, temporarily batteries can be removed.
• The layout of pipes in the system under consideration will not represent much difficulty – this is, as a rule, the circuit around the perimeter of the floor. Immediately outlined places of tenders for joining with radiators, the installation site of balancing cranes and locking valves. Usually, for a common line, I use T T RUBU with the internal diameter of DU25, and to connect each radiator – DU 20
• From the entrance to the boiler, the pump unit is installed. The pump itself does not like very high temperatures too much, so the return is the optimal place of its installation. It is advisable to install a “oblique filter” in front of the pump – it will collect the coolant to be cleaned from dirt and solid inclusions, avoiding their hit and the boiler heat exchanger.

At the "return," close to the boiler’s entrance, are the pump node and the expansion tank.

• Here you can mount a closed expansion tank. It is recommended to install a shut -off valve between it and the mainstream of the return – in the case when the tank is necessary, for this it is not necessary to empty the entire system.
• The assembly technology of the circuit of pipes depends on their type. In any case, it is necessary to achieve the complete sealing of all connections.
• If the pipes are supposed to be buried in the thickness of the walls or floor, then they must be isolated. Pipes hidden into stakes are sealed exclusively by gypsum mortar. Firstly, it is not aggressive chemically. And secondly, the thermal insulation qualities of the gypsum are an order of magnitude higher than that of a cement mortar.

Pipes can be hidden into the wall, but high -quality thermal insulation will be required

• After the installation of the pipes, you can re -hang radiators to regular places and finally connect them to the contour. It will be useful to recall once again – it is best to do this through shut -off valves – it will always be the opportunity to turn off and remove a faulty radiator without violating the integrity of the rest of the system.

Balancing valve and underwater ball crane (left)

• Simultaneously with the connection to the contour, the air vents are installed on the radiators in the closed system – automatic or the cranes of the Maevsky.

Radiator connection. The Maevsky crane is already in place.

• When the system is fully assembled, it is advisable to conduct its control tests – crimping (expansion tanks must be temporarily blocked). To do this, it can be pumped up with air or filled with water, and with the help of a special pump, the pressure in it rises to a size of about 1.5 from the calculated . If the leakage or explicit drop in pressure is not detected, then you can fill the system with the standard coolant and conduct a trial launch.

Crimping the completed system to verify it

• It remains only to carry out the exact balancing of the system – so that the heat is distributed in the diet with the highest possible uniformity.

As you can see, installing a one-pipe heating system doesn’t require a lot of complexity. This is frequently the deciding factor when selecting your own home’s water heating system. Long-burning pyrolysis boilers: the link will provide an answer.

You might be curious to know what a solid fuel boiler’s buffer container is.

Video: an example of a single -pipe heating system for a small house

Afanasyev Evgeny, Chief Editor

22.09.2015 is the publication’s author.

Using a one-pipe system can be a wise and economical decision when installing a heating system for your private home. In this configuration, radiators are heated in turn by hot water passing through a single pipe. This straightforward but effective do-it-yourself project can help you save money on installation and upkeep. Your home can be consistently warm while minimizing energy costs if the layout is well thought out and adequate insulation is installed. In addition, you’ll feel more satisfied with the outcome and have more control over the efficiency and comfort of your house.

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Video on the topic

One -pipe system can be done well.