Mounting of penoplex on the wall

Penoplex wall mounting is a well-liked way to improve your home’s thermal insulation. There has never been a more important time to find efficient ways to keep our homes cool in the summer and warm in the winter as energy costs rise and environmental concerns increase. Penoplex is a kind of extruded polystyrene foam that provides a reasonably easy-to-install, robust, and lightweight solution.

It’s important to comprehend why penoplex makes such an excellent insulator before beginning the installation process. Tiny air bubbles in its structure effectively trap heat. This translates to long-term savings on your energy bills in addition to improved indoor temperature control. Penoplex also has a resistance to moisture and decay, which adds to its durability and insulating efficacy.

Penoplex wall mounting is a simple process with a few easy steps that can be completed on your own or with expert assistance. The most important steps are properly preparing the surface, cutting the insulation to fit, and fastening it in place. This method guarantees that there are no openings or thermal bridges that could allow heat to escape. A thorough understanding of these procedures will enable homeowners to get the most out of their insulation projects.

Installing a penoplex is, all things considered, a sensible option for homeowners wishing to increase the energy efficiency of their house. We will examine each stage of the installation procedure in the ensuing sections and provide advice on how to simplify and expedite the process. Whether you’re a novice or an experienced do-it-yourselfer, knowing how to install penoplex correctly can have a big impact on the comfort and cost of energy in your house.

Step	Description
Prepare the Wall	Clean the surface of the wall from dirt and debris to ensure strong adhesion of the penoplex.
Apply Adhesive	Apply a special adhesive for foam boards in dots or strips across the back of each penoplex panel.
Attach Penoplex	Press the penoplex panels firmly against the wall, starting from one corner and working your way across to ensure even coverage and alignment.
Check for Gaps	Ensure there are no gaps between the panels. If gaps exist, fill them with foam or additional pieces of penoplex.
Seal the Joints	Use a sealing tape or apply a layer of plaster over the joints between the panels to prevent air and moisture ingress.

Features of the use of penoplex for insulation of walls

The most well-known brand of extruded polystyrene foam on the home market for heat-insulating materials is Penoplex with adhesive. In terms of price to thermal insulation qualities, Penoplex is the best choice for wall insulation.

Foamlex insulation for the house’s facade

This post will discuss the material’s technical properties, analyze its advantages and disadvantages, and explain the best way to adhere Penoplex to brick and concrete walls.

1 Technical characteristics

For thermal insulation of walls, there are two types of foam available: "Penoplex Comfort," which is installed on the walls from the inside of the house, and "Penoplex Facade," which is installed outside the house. Let’s examine these materials’ technical properties in more detail.

Both types of foamlex insulation for walls have the same standard dimensions. They come in slab form, measuring 120 cm in length and 60 cm in width. Simultaneously, the product’s thickness varies significantly; it can be 20, 30, 40, 50, 50, 60, 80, 100, 120, and 150 millimeters.

2 Strengths and weaknesses

Given the reasonable cost of penoplex and the cost of using polyurethane foam insulation to insulate the facade, it is accurate to describe the technical properties of this material as exceptional.

It outperforms most plate and roll insulation in terms of thermal insulation as well as other crucial functional aspects that will be covered in this section of the article.

Insulation of the house’s interior walls using Penoplex

The primary attribute of any insulation material is its ability to provide thermal insulation. This metric shows that Penoplex outperforms the majority of materials in its price range and is nearly on par with premium basalt wool, which is much more expensive.

Penoplex has a thermal conductivity of 0.03 W/m-s. For instance, this indicator is 0.4 W/m-s for glass wool, 0.042 W/m-s for foam plastic, and 0.29 W/m-s for basalt wool. Insulation using Penoplex Comfort turns out to be far more advantageous.

The capacity of any insulation to absorb liquids is one of its key properties, which has a direct impact on the material’s longevity. One drawback of mineral wool insulators is their hydrophobicity; penoplex has this property without a doubt.

Research has been done wherein the Penoplex wall insulation was fully submerged in water for 30 days.

This experiment has demonstrated that only the first 10 days see a slight moisture absorption. The amount of water absorbed was 0.5% of the material’s total mass; this amount is so small that it can be disregarded in all computations.

Penoplex’s closed cell structure and the fact that only the damaged cells are able to absorb moisture during the production cutting of the material slabs account for its good hydrophobic qualities.

Because foamplex is resistant to water, it is possible to add extra thermal insulation to the exterior of the walls, which will shield the home’s walls from wind, rain, and freezing temperatures.

Foamplex insulation for hollow brick walls

Vapor permeability properties determine whether or not the insulation material is suitable for use indoors.

Installing insulation material on the inner surface of walls without a good vapor barrier carries a risk because condensation can form on the material’s surface from the heat difference between the warm air from the inside of the house and the cold wall.

The ongoing presence of condensate adds to the home’s excessively damp air, which can lead to the growth of mold on the walls’ surface and the degradation of the insulation’s own qualities from moisture absorption.

When internal wall insulation is done by hand using Penoplex, you can avoid these issues because the closed cells of extruded polystyrene prevent steam from passing through.

Experience has shown that installing a two-centimeter layer of penoplex to soundproof walls and increase the effectiveness of vapor barrier is similar to applying one layer of roofing felt to a wall from the interior of the home.

2.4 Strength in mechanics

The foamlex wall cells range in size from 0.05 to 0.12 mm. The uniform arrangement of these cells contributes to the walls’ maximum strength characteristics.

This is particularly crucial for insulating walls that will be subjected to external loads, like building facades. Penoplex has a density of 35 kg/m².

Expanded polystyrene installation on a metal surface

2.5 The content’s drawbacks

The limitations of extruded polystyrene foam in general, and foamlex for walls in particular, include a limited temperature range that prevents foamlex from being installed inside industrial buildings and prevents it from being used to insulate bathroom walls.

Penoplex for walls is categorized as G3, which covers materials that can catch fire. This insulation can withstand temperatures between -50 and +75 degrees Celsius.

Additionally, mice love to chew on penoplex and conventional foam made of extruded polystyrene foam. For this reason, it’s important to remove any small rodents from the area before applying penoplex.

2.6 How should the foam be attached to the wall?

There are two methods you can use to mount foam on the wall with your hands: using adhesives with specific compositions or using umbrella-shaped dowels.

The following companies’ products are recommended by the manufacturer of this insulator, which doubles as mounting dowels: Hilti, Koelner, Termoclip, Biyskiy plant fiberglass products, and Galen.

Any organic solvents should be excluded from the glue used to attach foam to the walls because they cause extruded polystyrene to break down very quickly.

Kerosene, acetone, gasoline, white spirit, and toluene are among the materials that are forbidden. Using cement, acrylic, or polyurethane-based adhesive is advised.

Thermal insulation scheme utilizing panel insulators

The following are some of the tried-and-true formulas for adhering foamlex to various surfaces:

• Glims "KF" glue from GLIMS Production;
• Ceresit CT-85 glue from the company "Ceresit";
• Kreps-PPS glue from the company "PP Kreps";
• Glue Stopter K-20 from the company "Atlas";
• Stairofix glue from Terraco;
• RUSEXP-PS glue from "Rusexp" company
• Isolemfi glue from Emfi Company
• Glue Zenit-36 from the company "Emphy";
• Birs-51 glue from "Birs" company.

A cement base is present in nearly all of the aforementioned mixtures for foamed polystyrene glue. Having a lower cost than acrylic and polymer compositions is a nice feature of these adhesives.

The technical properties of cement adhesive compositions are ideal for foam plexus applications. With the use of adhesive compositions, installing insulation by hand is fairly easy, and the fastening quality is adequate.

2.8 Product Evaluations

We present you with the testimonials of those who have used Penoplex to insulate walls from the interior of the house so you can have a complete understanding of the practicality of doing so.

Our recent acquisition was a rural plot with a small brick house that had been completely dilapidated for many years. The walls are in generally good condition, but the thermal insulation was abhorrent.

I had to insulate this house from the inside because my wife and I had decided to use it as a summer cottage.

Made the decision to use Penoplex after receiving consistent positive feedback from friends who had used the material in the past and advice from a consultant who was inclined toward Penoplex.

All of the material installation was done by him. The outcome has completely satisfied me; in the winter, the house’s temperature hovers between 20 and 22 degrees Celsius.

About two years ago, I used Foamplex to insulate the house’s walls. I debated for a while before deciding to insulate inside or outside, but in the end I went with interior insulation, and I’m glad I did.

Foamlex has very little vapor conductivity, so there are no condensate issues. The temperature is also three to four degrees higher than in the uninsulated house.

I used Ceresit CT-85 to glue the Styrofoam, and I have nothing but good things to say about it: it holds perfectly and is simple and quick to fix.

Penoplex for walls – relevance of application. benefits and drawbacks of wall-mounted foamlex.

Insulation of walls from outside and inside with foam plex

It is possible to install foamlex insulation on walls without the assistance of a professional by using your own hands.

Penoplex, sometimes referred to as extruded polystyrene foam, is used in a variety of thermal insulation applications. Because of its low thermal conductivity, water resistance, and fire resistance, it is ideal for lining foundations, floors, and walls. Its price is also quite reasonable. If you use the right installation techniques, foamlex insulation for walls will work to its maximum potential.

• preparatory work;
• Installation of the basement profile;
• Installation of foamlex boards;
• Fixing the sheets;
• surface decoration.

Preparation

The walls are cleared of dust, other impurities, and any final finishes during the preparatory phase. You can use construction tools or your own hands to remove paint and varnish coatings completely. A unique composition is used to eradicate mold and other fungal infestations. It is advised to impregnate the coating with sanitizing agents having bactericidal qualities after cleaning.

The surface must be nearly flat to ensure that all imperfections are smoothed out before insulation can be applied. Additionally, their priming can be done if needed.

Installation of the basement profile

Styrofoam insulation is used on the outside and inside of walls.

Installing unique basement profiles is the first step in installing thermal insulation. They are required for the boards to glue evenly. Furthermore, the profile aids in shielding the polystyrene foam from other outside factors.

Particular dowel nails are used to secure the profiles. The profile needs to press close to the substrate. For this, lining washers can be employed.

Crucial! The width of the extruded polystyrene foam board and the basement profile should match.

Utilizing specialized jointing plates, adjacent profiles are joined together. However, you must leave a 2-3 mm space between each element.

Installing foam plex

The material is centered and surrounded with a layer of glue before being positioned on the base profile.

You can use your hands to adjust the sheet’s alignment by rotating it both horizontally and vertically while applying light pressure to the base. Using a construction level, the installation’s accuracy is verified. Remove any leftover glue from the spaces between the boards. Make sure to use small wedges made of pieces of material to fill in the gaps that appeared during the sheet installation process. Assembly foam should not be used to fill in gaps as this could cause cracks.

Advice: It is advised to lubricate the entire surface of the foam plex with glue for optimal fixing.

Wall mounting is completed in a staggered order, working from top to bottom. Once every board is in place, polyurethane assembly foam is inserted into the space created by the basement profile and the material’s base.

Crucial! Openings for doors and windows are insulated from complete sheets, not from fragments.

Technology of fixing the boards

An illustration of foam plex wall insulation within the space.

After the glue has dried completely, which should take about three days, the lining can be worked on further. Dowels are used to secure the penoplex, which has a large, flat plastic cap. The dowel is positioned so that it joins two vertically positioned boards and two adjacent sheets. The center of the material as well as its four edges are fixed with dowels.

Both the outside and the inside of the room can be used for insulation.

Building cladding from the outside

External cladding technology is the most widely used. When a house is being built or an existing building is being rebuilt, thermal insulation work is done. One benefit of operating from the outside is that the lining has no effect whatsoever on the room’s usable area.

Plaster facades or ventilated facades can be used for external thermal insulation. A design approach is not possible with ventilated facades because of their uniform appearance. However, compared to plaster ones, they have more effective vapor permeability.

The finish layer of the "wet" facade technology is unstable and needs to be repaired often. Insulation needs to be positioned sufficiently tightly as a result.

Polystyrene foam sheets that range in thickness from 80 to 100 m are used to finish exterior walls.

Because of its properties, Styrofoam can be used for exterior as well as interior cladding. As a result, walls made of foamlex have better insulation than walls made of comparable materials.

Penoplex wall mounting is an easy and affordable way to improve your home’s insulation, which will lower heating costs and increase comfort. Rigid foam insulation of the Penoplex variety is renowned for its superior moisture- and heat-resistant qualities. During installation, the panels are fastened to the wall firmly, frequently with the use of mechanical fasteners and special glue. All joints and edges are then sealed to minimize the effect of insulation and prevent heat bridges. For homeowners wishing to increase comfort and energy efficiency without taking on a large renovation project, penoplex is a great option.

Insulating walls with foam plex with your own hands

Applying foamplex boards to the walls is the easiest and most efficient method of insulating a home. The three steps of the process are wall preparation, insulation installation, and final finishing. The end product will be more high-quality if each step is completed with greater diligence. The task can be completed with common tools and no special equipment; you can insulate walls with foam plex on your own. You must first research installation techniques and make an informed decision regarding the type of insulation to use, as external and internal insulation differ from one another.

Applying foam plex insulation to walls by hand

Technology of external thermal insulation

Interior space is conserved when walls are insulated from the exterior of the building, which is crucial for small structures. Surface preparation needs special attention because it affects the thermal insulation layer’s strength and longevity.

The following materials are needed for the walls’ exterior insulation:

• Penoplex density of 32 kg/m 3;
• adhesive composition;
• priming mixture with antiseptic effect;
• basement profile;
• dowels;
• cement-sand mortar.

It is best to buy the glue and foam from the same manufacturer since they should match the type of insulation. Because of its excessively low absorbency, this material may peel off the wall surface if the wrong kind of glue is used.

Without tools, installation cannot be completed, so the following steps must be taken in advance:

• tape measure and level;
• metal brush;
• pick hammer;
• construction mixer;
• metal scissors;
• a knife with a long blade or a fine-toothed hacksaw;
• 2 trowels – ordinary and toothed;
• stainless steel trowel;
• perforator;
• screwdriver with attachments;
• sanding block;
• paint brushes.

Step1: Level and clean the walls

If any sections are delaminating, then remove the previous coating. Paint and plaster are stripped to a solid base, mastic and oil stains are removed from the walls, and mortar residue is hammered off. Grease or mold-covered areas are mechanically cleaned before being coated with one or two coats of antiseptic primer.

Walls should be cleaned and leveled.

A rule is used to check the smooth surface for imperfections, and mortar is used to seal deep crevices. Foam is blown into wall cracks and around window openings, and any protruding areas are then cut off. An anti-corrosion compound should be applied to any metal structures on the wall that will be covered by the insulation. Exterior walls of homes constructed with unplastered, gas-silicate or aerated concrete blocks must always be treated with a fixing priming compound. As a result, the substrate’s absorption qualities will be lessened, enabling the insulation to adhere more firmly.

A rule is used to look for any irregularities on the clean surface.

The installation of brackets for fastening suspended structures completes the preparation process. It is not recommended to install window grilles, satellite dishes, air conditioners, or drainage devices straight onto the thermal insulation layer. Any holes, including those for fixings, lessen the insulation’s effectiveness and tightness.

Step 2: The basement profile is installed.

The plinth profile makes sure that the boards are glued together uniformly and supports the foam core. Additionally, it shields the insulation’s lower edge from outside influences. The thickness of the foam plates and the profile’s width must always match.

Setting up the basement profile

The corner is where fixing is done:

• draw a horizontal line along the wall 20 cm above ground level;
• The basement profile is applied to the marking and fixed every 30 cm with special dowels;
• Check the tightness of the surfaces and, if necessary, use cushion washers;
• at the ends, the profiles are joined with connecting elements, leaving a gap of 2 mm between the edges;
• Install corner profiles at the corners of the building.

In the absence of a corner profile, cut the standard one at a ninety-degree angle, bend the cut edges, and secure them with connecting elements. Avoid allowing elements to distort when installing the basement profile, and fasten adjacent sections over one another.

3. Using a saw to cut the foam boards

Each board should be positioned against the wall at the point of attachment before glue is applied, and the cutting lines should be marked if needed. Only complete boards—fragments cut to the proper size—should be installed at the corners of door and window openings. The next row should be staggered, so keep that in mind when cutting the material.

Keep the seams between the boards from overlapping. A knife works better for selecting tiny holes than a hacksaw, which is better suited for cutting entire pieces.

Step 4: Get the adhesive ready

The adhesive composition must be ready after the boards are cut. The manufacturer must have stated the water-to-dry matter ratio on the package. Combining components in an arbitrary ratio is not permitted. Clean, cold water is required. Add the dry adhesive to the water and use a construction mixer to gently mix for approximately five minutes, or until the mixture is homogenous.

After allowing the prepared mass to swell for ten minutes, mix it once more for five minutes using a mixer. The mortar must be used within two to four hours, and it can only be worked in temperatures higher than five degrees Celsius. Never combine a fresh solution with one that has already been prepared, nor add water to the glue that is ready. There is an order in which the composition needs to be applied to the foam boards.

Gluing the Foam-Penoplex boards together

Installing the boards in step five

Sandpaper should be used to smooth boards without factory milling. The glue is applied in uniform 10-cm strips around the sheet’s perimeter if the walls are not too even. Make two to three thick strokes in the middle of the board to create tiny puddles of glue. At least 40% of the surface should be covered by the solution. A toothed trowel is used to apply mortar if the walls are perfectly flat. In this instance, the adhesive has completely covered the board.

In order to ensure that it does not extend past the house’s corner and the profile’s edge, the first sheet of insulation is positioned on the basement profile from the corner. There is not enough adhesive on the surface if the material does not stick to the edge too firmly. It is essential to verify the evenness of the mounted section adhesion after adhering the second sheet. The insulation is applied with a long flat lath or a construction level so that both sheets overlap. Pressing the material up against the wall allows for alignment. Any leftover glue is quickly removed with a cloth.

How to adhere foam plex

Although the glue should not come in contact with the joints, the boards should be glued very firmly. If there are any gaps at the joints, wedges made from leftover insulation material are used to plug them. To make joints easier, corner plates are first fixed with protrusions. Any excess should then be chopped off with a hacksaw. Above the first row, the second row of insulation is fixed in a staggered order.

When covering window and door apertures, the boards are adhered to the frame with a 2 centimeter overlap. If the openings are in a recess, the insulation is adhered to the wall plane with a thin overlap, and the slopes are covered with board pieces that have been cut to the appropriate size. After the edges are joined, the extra material is chopped off. The insulation is installed in close proximity to the openings once the flush profile is screwed onto the door and window frames. Since the sill there will cover the thermal insulation, the profile is not attached to the lower portion of the window frame.

Step 6: Using dowels to secure the thermal insulation layer

Dowel with a mushroom-shaped thermal head

The insulation is glued, and then additional dowel fixation is done after 72 hours. Approximately six fasteners are used for every square meter. The dowel spacer length is 45 mm for concrete walls, at least 80 mm for hollow brick walls, and 70 mm for solid brick walls. Every board has its corners and center fixed. Dowels are driven along vertical and horizontal joints between boards at a distance of 20 cm from the sheet’s edge, around openings and at corners.

"Termozit" dowels are facade dowels used to fasten thermal insulation.

Drill a hole that is 10 mm deeper than the dowel spacer portion first. To ensure that the head of the plastic fastener is flush with the insulation, hammer it into the opening. After that, carefully hammer the core into the dowel’s hole so as not to harm the plastic head. If this persists, a polyurethane sealant is applied on top after the core is hammered to the end. Assembly foam is blown out to fill the gap between the basement profile and the earth following the repair of the foam plex.

Step 7: Wall completion

You can apply the final coating after the thermal insulation layer has been fixed. After covering the insulation with adhesive, add reinforcement mesh. Try to evenly distribute the composition by rubbing the mesh into the adhesive with a trowel. To get rid of any imperfections, the surface is sanded with sandpaper after a day. After applying a leveling layer, the wall is primed and covered in ornamental plaster. Install a timber purlin over the insulation if siding is going to be used to cover it.

Internal wall insulation

There are a few minor variations in the internal surface insulation process. The same steps are taken in preparation: paint, whitewash, and plaster are removed; cracks are sealed; and cement-sand mortar is used to level the wall’s plane. After applying an antiseptic primer, the surface is dried. Since the insulation sheets are supported by the floor, there is no need to install a basement profile inside the building.

Wall insulation on the inside

Foamlex’s ability to repel water means that a waterproofing layer need not be present. Furthermore, covering the insulation with vapor barrier film is not required. Plasterboard or decorative plaster sheets are used to cover the insulation’s surface after it has been adhered to and secured with dowels.

Discover how to use foam plex to insulate walls on your own! Detailed instructions, lists of equipment and supplies, pictures, and a video for insulating walls.

Technology of wall insulation with foam plex

Technology of using foam plex plates and their own hands to insulate the house’s walls from the outside.

A new class of superior heat-insulating materials is introduced with Penoplex boards!

They are perfect for handling heat-saving tasks.

– Resistance to deterioration

Technology of wall insulation with the help of foamlex slabs

1) The base must be cleaned of dust, oil, and mastic residue, old mortar traces, and peeling areas of the surfaces before foamlex plates are installed. Only the layers that are unable to support the weight need to be removed.

If there are mold and fungal lesions, use specific compositions to remove them.

– Eliminate any algae and vegetative lesions that are present. For cleaning and initial preventative treatment, apply high performance sanitizing agents with fungicidal and bactericidal properties to areas affected by plant growth, fungi, moss, or algae.

– Use machinery to remove any salt deposits that may have accumulated on the facade.

Satellite dishes, house numbers, etc.

Techniques to even out uneven facades

Before installing the thermal insulation system on standard (uneven) façade surfaces, the surface must be marked and measured. This will allow for the creation of process maps for the removal of current errors as well as a map showing the unevenness.

– Alignment using the proper mortars for plaster;

– Leveling by adjusting the board’s thickness in accordance with the design thickness;

– Using leveling pads to level.

1) Plastering the facade is the most dependable technique, and it has no effect on the foam boards’ strength or quality.

It should be considered when applying this method that additional thermal insulation board installation on plastered surfaces can happen no sooner than 28 days later.

Remember that each situation requires a different choice of plaster mortar based on the kind of substrate.

2) It is only feasible to correct irregularities in the facade by varying the foam board’s thickness after performing additional thermal engineering calculations that account for the removal of the building envelope’s condensation zone.

Mistakes. We classify this approach as extremely dependable. This technique is labor-intensive during the design and installation of foamlex slabs, but when used correctly, it has no effect on the overall facade structure’s quality or durability.

3) Leveling the base with leveling pads is a technologically sophisticated procedure that requires skilled, knowledgeable, and experienced installers. Poor quality results could be obtained if this method is applied by inexperienced specialists, which could have a major negative impact on the system’s overall performance.

Tools needed to install foamlex boards:

Use roulette to measure dimensions such as length, width, and size.

2) Steel angle: used to mark the corners and inspect the surface;

3) A 2-meter level is used to create and check horizontal and vertical surfaces;

4) Plumb-bob: used to measure variations in height;

5) Polyethylene film: to keep splashes away from window and door openings;

6) Painting paper tape: used to mark the surface and adhere protective film to openings;

7) Steel wire brush with multiple uses for surface preparation;

8) A pick hammer, used for dowel installation and surface preparation;

9) Use a construction mixer or mixer attachment to drill in order to prepare mortar and glue for the reinforcing layer;

10) Shears made of metal cutting the basement profile down;

11) Brush: used to prime the surface, wet, and dust the insulating boards;

12) A knife designed to cut thermal insulation boards, with a 25 cm blade length;

13) Fine-toothed universal hacksaw for cutting insulating boards;

14) Stainless steel plastering trowel for use with adhesive and reinforcing compound;

15) Stainless steel toothed trowel, with 8 or 10 mm teeth, for applying the layer of reinforcement to the thermal insulation boards;

16) A trowel made of stainless steel that is used to apply adhesive and reinforce compositions;

17) Perforator: used to drill holes for dowel installation;

18) Drill-drill with a diameter of 6–10 mm to create holes for dowel installation (length based on thickness of thermal insulation system);

19) A screwdriver or drill to insert the dowel cores;

20) Depending on the kind of dowels being used, screwdriver attachments for inserting the dowel cores;

21) Sanding block: used to smooth out insulation board joints;

22) Hand scissors: used to cut the reinforcing mesh made of plaster;

23) The aluminum rule, which levels the layer of reinforcement;

24) A stainless steel trowel for external corners, which is used to smooth the layer of reinforcement there;

25) An internal corner stainless steel trowel for leveling the layer of reinforcement;

26) Wide facade trowel made of stainless steel, used to level the layer of reinforcement;

27) Brushes and rollers: for layer painting and priming;

28) A plastic grater that is at least 3 mm thick, used to level and shape the decorative layer.

Foamlex board mounting on the facade walls

Installing the basement profile is the first step.

Figs. 1 and 2 show the basement profile installation scheme.

When the base is made of full-body bricks or heavy concrete, the spacer portion of the dowel entering the wall must be at least 40 mm long.

– The depth of fixing in slotted brick foundations needs to be at least 60 mm.

For gas-silicate block substrates or foam, an embedment depth of greater than 100 mm must be used for fixing.

In addition, a technological gap of 2-3 mm must be left between adjacent profiles when installing the base/plinth profile without the use of connecting elements in order to account for temperature deformations.

– A typical basement profile with a technological cutout at a 90° angle is permitted. The basement profile is bent, and then a unique connecting element is used to join the cut edges.

– Standard base/plinth profiles may be used for processing the building’s internal and external corners. Afterwards, 45° oblique cuts must be made on the edges of these profiles to facilitate further joining. The technological cuts will be connected in the future by unique connecting components.

It is necessary to cut out the process only along the cut line, leaving the remaining solid slab intact (see "Cutting out of the slab"). within the phase titled "Installation of perimeter joints around windows and doors."

The installation of insulation boards on the plane requires that vertical joints, such as brickwork, be offset by at least 200 mm when cutting. The boards’ vertical joints cannot be situated on the same line.

The adhesive material’s composition guarantees dependable reinforcement of the insulating surfaces as well as strong and long-lasting adhesion of the boards to the mineral substrate.

Generally speaking, 6 liters of water are needed to prepare glue from dry mineral adhesive composition "Teplokley" on a bag containing 25 kg of mixture.

– The solution’s working phase, or "life," lasts between two and four hours, depending on the weather. It should be considered that the adhesive composition takes longer to dry in colder climates and high humidity levels.

– WARNING! Re-adding water to the aged and set adhesive mixture is prohibited.

– WARNING! Cement is a component of mineral adhesive composition. It’s important to shield your skin and eyes from the adhesive composition while working.

Step 4: Cover the boards with adhesive.

The adhesive composition’s height, which ranges from 1.5 to 2.5 cm, is determined by the surface irregularities. Depending on how uneven the substrate is, different amounts of glue are applied to ensure that at least 40% of the board surface is covered in glue.

Penoplex wall mounting is a very efficient way to improve the insulation in your house. This methodology not only facilitates the preservation of a pleasant indoor climate but also yields noteworthy energy conservation benefits. Homeowners can lower the amount of heat that escapes during the winter and maintain a cooler interior during the summer by installing penoplex. For year-round comfort, penoplex is a flexible option thanks to these two advantages.

Because penoplex is easy to install, a lot of people find it to be a popular do-it-yourself project. For the panels to have the greatest insulating effect, they must be fitted firmly and sealed correctly. By taking the time to install penoplex correctly, you can avoid common problems that can reduce the effectiveness of insulation, such as air leaks and thermal bridges. When installation is done with precision, energy efficiency can increase and savings on heating and cooling costs can become more apparent.

Lastly, it’s important to consider how using penoplex will affect the environment. Penoplex assists in lowering a building’s overall energy consumption, which in turn lowers carbon emissions, by increasing thermal efficiency. Moreover, penoplex is a sustainable option that reduces the need for frequent replacements given its longevity and durability. Choosing penoplex has several advantages for the environment in addition to making your living area more comfortable.

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