Kuznetsova oven: step -by -step instructions for manufacturing

The secret to heating our homes is to find economical and effective solutions. The Kuznetsova oven is one age-old technique that continues to function well. This kind of stove, which originated in Russia, has been used for many generations to keep warm and cozy during the harsh winters. The Kuznetsova oven is a well-liked option for individuals who wish to heat their homes without exclusively depending on contemporary heating systems because of its unique combination of simplicity and effectiveness.

Although building your own Kuznetsova oven may seem difficult, with the correct advice, it can be a fun and fulfilling project. We’ll provide you detailed instructions in this article on how to make your own Kuznetsova oven. We have everything you need, whether you’re a novice wanting to try your hand at stove building or an experienced do-it-yourselfer.

The Kuznetsova oven’s ability to be built from easily accessible, basic materials is one of its many wonderful features. You won’t need much to get started, just bricks and clay, metal pipes, and stove doors. Because of its accessibility, it’s a desirable choice for those on a tight budget or for those who want to build with sustainable, natural materials.

It’s critical to comprehend the fundamental ideas underlying the operation of the Kuznetsova oven before beginning construction. The Kuznetsova oven uses a different kind of heating than traditional wood stoves, which depend on a chimney to pull smoke out of the home. The stove optimizes heat distribution and retention by forcing hot air through a network of channels, keeping your house toasty and comfortable for extended periods of time.

Materials needed	Tools required
Bricks, cement, fireclay, stovepipe, metal grate	Trowel, level, measuring tape, saw

The use of Kuznetsov oven

After many years of creative work and. About 150 furnace models were created by IN. Kuznetsov with the intention of being used in every aspect of human life where heat generation is necessary. According to "Kuznetsovka’s" type of specialization, there are:

• heating;
• hobs;
• heating-welding;
• bath
• street, barbecue and grill dishes designed for smoking products;
• fireplaces with an open firebox that allows you to admire the flame.

Examples of how the Kuznetsov oven is used

Advantages and disadvantages

Due to Kuznetsov’s immense popularity and deep respect, those who are knowledgeable about the stove have a variety of benefits.

1. The KPD "Kuznetsovka" exceeds 80%, and in some models it can reach 95%.
2. The stoves work in high -temperature mode, but at the same time do without materials and technologies available only in factory conditions.
3. High -temperature regime allows you to heat the stove even the most broken and low -quality fuel.
4. Again, due to the high combustion temperature, the fuel is oxidized almost in full, so the soot is formed in minimal amounts. The stove may not require cleaning for several years.
5. The design of the furnace provides a very uniform heat transfer between the tops, while it takes less material than during construction according to traditional technology.
6. In the furnaces equipped with a heat exchanger, the heat for heating water is selected from flue gases, and not from the furnace, so the “forging” can easily perform the function of the boiler without deterioration of characteristics.
7. The principle of action of the furnace provides good traction, so there is no need to build a high chimney.
8. "Kuznetsovka" is very plastic both in the sense of design and in the sense of design. That is, it can easily be adjusted to any room without damage to performance and economy.
9. The furnace is arranged in such a way that after the furnace its chimney does not need to be blocked with a bit. Carbon monoxide poisoning is completely excluded.
10. The design involves the uniform distribution of heat in the body of the furnace, so cracks from local deformations do not develop in the masonry.

What is to be said for the flaws? Even though they aren’t technically there, something still needs to be considered. Huge walls would have rendered Kuznetsov’s stove useless and negated many of its benefits. However, it also experiences fairly high thermal loads concurrently. As a result, this unit needs to be meticulously measured, validated, and constructed while adhering strictly to all technological specifications during the development phase. Even the smallest departures from the technical specifications will result in a very short lifespan for "Kuznetsovka."

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Design and principle of action

The innovator and IN. Kuznetsov, renowned for its economy, took a cap.

This is the appearance of the Kuznetsov model’s cap.

The way smoke gases move in these furnaces accounts for their high efficiency. If they extend into the chimney in channel furnaces, frequently failing to heat a large brick structure, then they swirl under the cap’s vault in caps for an extended period of time until they cool. They don’t descend to the output until after that, at which point they fall into the chimney. Simultaneously, the gas-filled cap serves as a bit: water cannot fill the inverted diving bell, nor can cold air from the chimney pass through it. The term "gas at the gas" refers to this effect.

The inventor used a more complex model of this type of furnace that had two caps.

Scheme of a two -cape model

Diagram of a furnace with two caps

As you can see, the caps are connected in a sequential manner, meaning that a two-stage scheme is used to select the heat gases. They were reluctant to build furnaces with this kind of design before it was done, in part due to its complexity as well as a few unfavorable aspects. Thus, the effect of the "gas backstage" is negated, for example, when the thrust in the second cap easily tears off the gas cork in the first.

The master handled this disadvantage in the following way. The furnace was outfitted with the so-called grassroots channels, which were installed to avoid the array’s heated areas. In normal mode, the convective flow created by the firebox’s flames provides traction while the flame is burning. Оогда топливо будет израсходовано и конвекция прекратится, тяга сама собой перераспределится таким образом, что холодный воздушный поток будет следовать через низовые каналы, а не черезретое тело печи.

This choice proved to be more dependable in addition to compensating for the gas’s instability at the gas: in the Kuznetsov furnace, traction is always diverted away from a hot array, whereas the cork formed by gases can withstand a strong wind impulse. Furthermore, the room’s ventilation does not need to be set up because of the bottom channels.

How does it work

The procedures that take place in the Kuznetsov oven go in this order:

1. Due to the applicant through the blowing (pos. 1) air in the furnace (pos. 2) the fuel is burning, the mixture of smoke and pyrolysis gases forms in the lower cap. 3). Under his arch (pos. 4) pyrolysis gas finally breaks up into combustible components, which are burned here. This design provides the effect of self -regulation: with severe burning of the flame, the gas cork increases and blocks the thrust; Due to the weakening of the thrust, burning in the furnace also weakens, the gas cork, cooling, decreases and the thrust resumes.
2. Conditionally cold gases from the lower cap enter the upper (pos. 5). If the furnace is round (this is an ideal shape for a two -cape scheme), then its body plays the role of the upper cap. In its upper part (pos. 6) there is a peroxidation of carbon monoxide and nitrogen oxide, so that entering the chimney (pos. 7) the exhaust mainly consists of carbon dioxide and water vapor. The gases entering the second cap are no longer super -native – the temperature is from 200 to 400 degrees – and chemically aggressive, so here you can install a water heat exchanger from conventional structural steel. The selection of heat for water does not change the stove operating mode, since the high -temperature part – the firebox + lower cap – is insulated with a brick -shaped grid.

The shamose furnace in Kuznetsov’s furnaces needs to be made insulated from the main array, or floating, as the term goes, because of the high combustion temperature. It is important to avoid introducing any elements into ceramic brick masonry as this could cause the bricks to tear even with temperature seams during the furnace due to differences in their coefficients of thermal expansion.

The so-called dry seam ought to encircle the firebox. This is the seam between the ceramic and chamotnese bricks; instead of a clay solution, it is filled with cardboard covered in asbestos or basalt.

Between the firebox and the lower cap, there are two ring gaps: one (L1) and another (L2). The gas vyushka will be more stable if L2’s width is greater than L1’s.

We go over the effective and economical way to build a Kuznetsova oven in our guide to heating and insulating your house. With its traditional Russian stove, you can maximize the distribution of warmth throughout your home and reduce energy use while still maintaining a sustainable heating solution. You can easily construct your own Kuznetsova oven by following our detailed instructions, which cover every step from assembling and setting it up to using it properly. You can build a warm and sustainable heating system for your house with this do-it-yourself project, assuring long-term comfort and financial savings.

Calculation of the Kuznetsov furnace

The "Kuznetsovka" is an extremely intricate heating device, and attempting to calculate and design it on your own will not yield positive results. The author of your developments does not withhold anything from you; all you have to do is select the one that best suits your needs. If the features of the model you like do not indicate the heat transfer power, it can be roughly calculated as follows: a furnace that receives twice daily heating produces roughly 500 watts of heat per kV m of surface area.

The OVIK-9 furnace, whose manufacturing process we shall examine, measures 1015 x 630 x 2100 mm and has a 3.6 kW heat transfer power.

General view of model OVIK-9

Preparatory work

Prior to anything else, you must decide where the furnace will be built. The simplest way to accomplish this is to design the oven and the building together so that three or at least two rooms are heated before the house is constructed. It’s more difficult to build a ready-made home. Since introducing the stove into the bearing wall would necessitate intricate calculations and risky labor-intensive work (part of the wall will have to be disassembled, holding the load from the overlap with a system of jumpers and columns), they are attempting to integrate the stove into the interior partition in this instance.

Of course, you could just use a wall option, but that would only heat one room.

You must construct a reinforced concrete foundation in the location of your choice. Its measurements must be at least 100 mm larger on each side than the furnace’s. Combining the foundations of the furnace and the building is not permitted because the two structures provide different sediments and one will pull on the other, skewing the structure.

Under the oven, a reinforced concrete foundation is a must.

The bearing capacity of the soil, the depth at which it freezes, and the building’s operation mode (regular/constant) all affect the foundation’s depth. In most cases, the foundation of a year-round habitation building situated on stable soil is 400–600 mm below the surface. A sand pillow and crushed stone should be placed at the bottom of the recess to provide reinforcement.

Moreover, formwork is installed, the reinforcing cage is fixed, and concrete is poured using conventional technology. Only after the concrete has completely matured and solidified to a sufficient strength should you begin building the furnace; this typically takes one to two months.

It is essential to install waterproofing made of two layers of roofing material, or toly, on top of the foundation before installing the first row. Chalk is used to draw the contours of the future furnace, making it easier to navigate.

Materials and tools

For the task at hand, you will require:

• trowel;
• level;
• Kiyanka and other construction tools.

You will need a grinder with a diamond circle and a brown hammer to split the bricks.

For work, such a set of tools will be required.

Two kinds of bricks will be used to build the furnace: a standard ceramic brand, M150 (250x120x65 mm), and a fake brand, SB-8 (250x123x65 mm) or Sh-5 (230x114x40 mm). Bricks made of chamotum will be used to construct the furnace’s walls.

When purchasing a shamic brick, exercise extreme caution. Scammers may provide an acid-resistant brick for it that may seem to be resistant to high temperatures on the outside. So, requesting the presentation of a certificate won’t be unnecessary.

Brick for the furnace’s laying

It’s commonly advised to go with chamotum brick; the darker the better. Such a rule, however, is not always effective. The properties of light brick might be superior to those of dark brick if clay from distinct deposits was used. It is more accurate to assess chamotis brick quality using the following standards:

• The structure should be homogeneous and fine -grained – without the pores and inclusions visible to the naked eye;
• when tapping a metal object (a light hammer or a wrench), a brick should make a clear, jerky and sonorous sound;
• When falling, it should be split into large pieces (low -quality scatters into small fragments up to sand).

A design measuring 1015 x 630 x 2100 mm will require 22 chamotis and 430 ceramic bricks (not including the chimney).

How to prepare a solution

Clay is the used solution. Organic impurities in the sand and clay used in its preparation can cause seams to break. The presence of these impurities in the clay is identified by a strong, sometimes even pleasant smell; normally, the clay is hardly detectable.

Sand that is either mountainous or created by grinding bricks should be used; in these types, organic impurities are either entirely absent or present in very small amounts. Although brick sand is typically less expensive than mountain sand, it is not inferior to it. Just be aware of the following situation: sand from ceramic brick is required for a ceramic masonry solution, and chamot from chamot is required for chamotnaya.

Consider the gravity of clay. White kaolin or chamotum marl should be the foundation for the preparation of the chamotis masonry solution. For ceramic laying, any clay with refractory qualities works well, such as gray or blue Cambrian clay or gray kaolin.

The viscosity, fat content, and adhesive properties of clay from different deposits of the same variety can vary significantly. As a result, the best proportion of sand to clay in the solution should be determined experimentally. When it comes to using brick sand, this is carried out as follows:

1. A portion of clay weighing 1 kg should be poured to the top with water and left for a day.
2. After that, the fragmented clay is kneaded with the addition of water until it looks like plasticine or a thick dough and stops sticking to the hands.

Additionally, a specific quantity of sand is added to each of the five equal portions of clay that have been divided:

• in the first – 10% of the volume of clay;
• in the 2nd-25%;
• in the 3rd-50%;
• in the 4th-75%;
• in the 5th-100%.

Each portion needs to be well mixed, smoothed out, and allowed to dry for four hours. Remember to indicate the amount of sand that is contained.

Following the rolling of this portion of the solution, a cylinder shape measuring 30 cm in length and 1–1.5 cm in diameter must be achieved. They all revolve around a circular blank that is roughly 5 cm in diameter. Test samples must now be dried for two weeks at room temperature without the presence of drafts.

The next step is to assess each of the options:

1. If there are no cracks on the cylinder or they are available in the form of a very small mesh, such a solution can be used for any part of the furnace.
2. If the depth of cracks reaches 1-2 mm, the solution will be able to withstand the temperature up to 300 degrees. Such a mixture can be used for laying a country fireplace or barbecue.
3. In the presence of deep cracks or ruptures, the solution is recognized as unsuitable for use – the fraction of sand available in it is an excess.

For every 500 bricks, 0.2 cubic meters of clay and sand mixture are typically used in masonry.

Note: If extra expenses are not a source of shame, you can buy a pre-made mixture for making a stove solution at a specialty store.

After figuring out the ideal ratio of sand to clay, they start preparing the solution:

• The required amount of clay (approximately 40 kg per 100 bricks) is again soaked during the day, knead to the consistency of the dough, but after that it is still wiped through a sieve with a cell of 3×3 mm;
• Then, according to the recipe selected by experimentally, sand is added;
• Gradually adding water, the solution is stirred to a cream -shaped state;
• Assess how the solution is moistened with the cell, and if necessary, it is adjusted by its composition by adding a small amount of clay or sand.

What else is required

1. Topic door, for example, dt-3 brands, with a opening size of 250×210 mm.
2. Puncture door, for example, DPK brands, with a opening of 250×140 mm.
3. Grate grate in size 250×252 mm.
4. Cooking plate of cast iron into two burners, size – 586×336 mm.
5. Doors in size 510×340 mm in the amount of 2 pcs. – For the hob.
6. Gaps with a passing cross section 130×130 mm in the amount of 2 pcs. – for the hob and for switching between summer and winter operating modes.
7. Gap with a lumen 250×130 mm – for a chimney.
8. Segments of the equalized corner 36×4 600 mm long (4 pcs.).
9. A segment of a steel strip 40×4 mm long 600 mm.
10. Steel sheet 3 mm thick in size 600×550 mm.
11. A steel sheet 3 mm thick in size 500×700 mm to protect the floor before the firebox.

Replace steel flooring with any other non-combustible material, like ceramic tiles.

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Masonry: guessing and step -by -step instructions

The order of the tasks is as follows:

Twenty bricks make up the first row, which is arranged to resemble a perfect rectangle with a purely horizontal surface.

The first row’s layout

Diagonals are measured to verify "rectangularity"; they must be equal. When there is no prior experience, a row needs to be set up without a solution first. After everything has been adjusted and confirmed, the solution can then be applied. The seams should have a thickness of 5 mm.

Suggestions. Replace the stove’s corners with bricks that have been rounded to improve its appearance. These blocks are sold already finished, so you don’t need to cut them yourself.

The first (lower) cap and a blowing camera origin are located in the second row. Bricks are laid in two parts, slightly advanced and without a solution. These bricks will need to be taken out once the masonry is finished in order to free the base of the cap from brick fragments and solution spray. The halves are eventually placed on the solution after being cleaned.

The second row’s scheme

Оогда 2-ѹ ряд будет выложен (потребуется 14 кирпичей), на него устанавливают дверцу поддувала, подперев её несколькими кирпичами. Asbestos cord needs to be wrapped around the door frame to serve as both a temperature seam and a seal. Wire is inserted into the seams of the brickwork to secure it.

It is advised to use the wire to reinforce the furnace’s walls by inserting it into the seams of every other row.

They start laying the fourth row after having laid out in accordance with the third row scheme, which calls for the bricks that make up the structure to be firmly fixed for the blowing door. Here, chamotnaya is used in addition to ceramic bricks, and we start to lay out the furnace’s side and back walls.

The third row’s layout

The blowing door has bumpy chamotis on the inside and rubbed ceramic bricks on the outside that overlap to face either way. There should be a 5 mm heat gap between them. It can be set up as follows: a gasket made of packaging corrugated cardboard is placed between the bricks; it just has the right thickness; when the cardboard burns out during trapping, the gap forms on its own. Everywhere that chamotis brick is next to ceramic, there needs to be a temperature differential.

The fourth row’s layout

The chamotte bricks that make up the firebox’s side walls in row No. 5 are slightly shifted so that the bricks from the fourth row beneath them create a shelf that is 10–15 mm wide for the grate. Bricks should be extended to allow for a 5 mm space between them and the grille, which is required to allow the heated metal to expand freely.

Scheme of the fifth row

Cut off a brick that forms the front wall.

The development of a vertical channel joining the two caps starts in the same row.

After the row is laid out, the grate should be installed and sand should be poured into the space between it and the bricks.

Installing and repairing the top door must be done concurrently with the sixth row’s styling. Its frame cannot come into direct contact with brick; asbestos cord must be laid as a gasket instead. Wire can be used to fix the door frame from below, but since it will burn out quickly, a more sturdy component is needed above. Rather, a steel strip is employed.

Furnace door installation in the sixth row

There is a 20–30 mm wide break left when row No. 7 is laid on the brick that makes up the furnace’s back wall. This marks the start of a dry seam.

Seventh row scheme

They post a series No. 8 in accordance with the plan, and then they start laying the ninth row. At this point, a channel has formed that joins the lower cap and the furnace. Bricks in the furnace’s side walls are marked with lilac color; their upper edges should be 10 mm below the row’s plane. On the left wall, an asbestos strip that is 10 mm thick must be installed so that it is flush with the row’s plane.

The eighth row’s scheme

Observe how the furnace door is blocked—the masonry "into the castle" is created by trimming off bricks.

The ninth row’s scheme

When arranging the tenth row, keep in mind that ceramic bricks must be placed without solution on asbestos lining, which covers the chamotis bricks in the firebox wall.

The order’s tenth row

An under-the-hob cutout must be made in the ceramic bricks surrounding the furnace. Bricks must be cut by roughly 10 mm in order for the plate’s dimensions to allow for a 5 mm temperature gap to remain around it. Additionally, a 10 mm space must be left between the hob and the chamotum brick in the contact zone. These bricks, broken off, are to the right and in front (shown in orange).

In the event that the plate has rigid ribs underneath, additional groove cutting will be required in the brick to accommodate them, ensuring the stove is supported by the brick throughout the area. After laying a row, install it right away on an asbestos cord that has been infused with clay solution. Sand fills the spaces between the bricks and the stove.

Around number 11, the hob’s walls start. Additionally, a door is placed here; however, asbestos cord must be wrapped around the door’s frame. You can use wire once again for fixation.

The eleventh row’s layout

Simply arrange the rows in the correct order; rows 12, 13, and 14 in the comments are not necessary.

Following the 15th row of bricks being laid out, a 3 mm thick steel sheet 600 x 550 mm in size, with a neckline beneath an exhaust channel, blocks the hob. Four corner segments and a steel strip reinforce the sheet on top. Steel overlap keeps different types of small trash out of the food that could be poured into it from brickwork.

Setting up the stove

Cutouts are made under the valves in the 16th row of bricks, which frame the exhaust and front vertical channels. These cutouts account for a 5 mm temperature gap.

The sixteenth row’s scheme

The valves are placed in their proper locations after the row is laid out.

The upper cap starts to form after the seventeenth row (18th row). It is also necessary to remove the slightly extended halves of the solution here so that the base of the cap can be cleaned of any debris and solution that may have fallen during the masonry. The removed bricks are cleaned, then given a solution coat before being put back in their original location.

The eighteenth row of the order marks the start of the cap’s formation.

The order determines how the ranks from 19 to 27 are arranged.

The primary chimney valve is situated in the 28th row. Cutouts in bricks should be made beneath it that are 10 mm deep (shown by a lilac color) and wide enough to leave a 5 mm temperature gap surrounding the valve body.

Design of the 28th row

The valve is laid on the solution and needs to be installed right away after the row is laid out.

Putting in a chimney valve

Rows 29 and 30 The furnace overlaps, and a nozzle pipe with a smoke-sized canal starts near No. 31 and ends in a brick (270×140 mm).

The nozzle pipe’s formation

The completed stove has to be thoroughly dried. It is left with all of the doors and valves open for a while in order to accomplish this. If you hang an electric lamp in the firebox with a 200–400 watt capacity, it will go more quickly. Along with heat, it will create a steady convective flow that will quickly evaporate all moisture.

Small amounts of fuel should be used to create the first firebox since the fire must first solidify the furnace walls.

It is not advisable to remove the furnace finish before the first season is completely finished, as shrinkage processes may cause damage to the decorative coating.

Operation in various modes

Kuznetsov’s bake from heating-welding simply becomes a hob when in summer mode. This can be accomplished by simply opening a unique valve, also known as a summer passage gap, which will allow smoke fumes to enter the chimney straight through and avoid the caps. It is only the hob that will be heated, respectively.

The gate that is mounted on the exhaust channel allows you to change the temperature inside the hob. It is simple to convert the camera into an oven by shutting the door and valve. You can fix the shelves for a baking sheet in the walls for convenience of use.

The hob door is open if you need to quickly dry or warm the space. The burners’ temperature is still high enough to cook in this situation.

Video: Building a two -captic furnace with your own hands – Part 1

For people who want to heat their homes effectively and sustainably, building a Kuznetsova oven can be a rewarding project. This article offers a thorough guide that will walk you through building your own Kuznetsova oven, step-by-step. Every stage, from assembling the oven to gathering supplies, has been divided into doable steps, making it accessible to do-it-yourselfers of all experience levels.

The ability of a Kuznetsova oven to distribute heat evenly and consistently throughout the house is one of its main advantages. These ovens can maintain a comfortable temperature without significantly using conventional heating systems by utilizing the principles of radiant heat. This lowers energy use and leaves a less carbon imprint in addition to lowering utility bills.

In addition, building a Kuznetsova oven encourages sustainability because it makes use of easily accessible materials like bricks, sand, and clay. This environmentally friendly method not only lessens the impact that heating your home has on the environment, but it also helps us develop a stronger bond with the surrounding natural resources. Constructing a Kuznetsova oven enables homeowners to actively move toward living in greater harmony with the environment.

A Kuznetsova oven can improve a home’s aesthetic appeal in addition to its environmental advantages. An oven constructed with these instructions can become the center of attention in any living area thanks to its classic style and rustic charm. The cozy glow of a Kuznetsova oven adds character and warmth to any space, whether it’s installed in a contemporary loft or a cozy cabin.

To sum up, building a Kuznetsova oven has many benefits, including sustainability, energy economy, and visual appeal. Homeowners can start a fulfilling journey towards producing their own source of heat and comfort by following the detailed instructions in this article. Constructing a Kuznetsova oven is a useful and rewarding project, regardless of your motivations—reducing your carbon footprint or just adding some charm to your house.

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