Kuznetsov Bake: Apart, Drawings, DIY Projects

Many of us are always searching for effective and affordable solutions when it comes to heating our homes. The Kuznetsov Bake is one such solution that has grown in favor in recent years. In addition to providing warmth, this antique Russian stove also makes a lovely focal point in any house. Its distinctive design makes it possible to burn wood efficiently, making it a heating option that is kind to the environment.

Comprehending the subtleties of the Kuznetsov Bake can yield fascinating and fulfilling results. Every component, from its unique design to its detailed illustrations, conveys a tale of artistry and practicality. The stove’s design makes use of a number of channels and chambers to optimize heat retention, keeping your house warm for extended periods of time while using less fuel.

As an ardent DIYer, you may find building your own Kuznetsov Bake to be a rewarding project. You can build a stove that fulfills your heating requirements and gives your living area a hint of rustic charm with the correct supplies and advice. DIY projects give you the freedom to alter the stove to suit your needs, whether that means adding bespoke drawings or changing the size to match your house.

Discovering the history and design of the Kuznetsov Bake or being excited to take on a do-it-yourself project, investigating this age-old heating method can lead to a multitude of opportunities. The Kuznetsov Bake is still a popular choice for eco-conscious homeowners looking for a chic and fashionable way to keep their houses warm throughout the winter because of its unique combination of functionality and style.

Kuznetsov Bake	A traditional Russian stove known for its efficiency and heat retention.
Apart	A description of its components and how they work together to produce heat.
Drawings	Illustrations and schematics to help visualize the construction and design.
DIY Projects	Guides and tips for building your own Kuznetsov Bake at home.

How caps of capture heating devices work?

When firewood or other fuel is exposed to high temperatures, it undergoes pyrolysis, or thermal decomposition. The pyrolysis gases combine with air and burn, producing hot smoke gases.

After exiting the furnace, this gas mixture fills the first cap, providing some thermal energy and heating the walls. It then goes into the second cap, providing additional thermal energy and cooling to a temperature between 100 and 250 degrees.

When the fuel door is opened, cold air enters the furnace and travels along the bottom of the first cap instead of rising, which causes the gas backbone effect to be activated without cooling the cap’s walls.

The cold chimney fractions either go straight into the pipe or first pass through the bottom of the second cap, depending on the design. By reducing the effects of cold air on fire and increasing furnace efficiency, secondary air is supplied above the combustion zone to improve the efficiency of fuel combustion and pyrolysis gases in terms of "forging."

With the aid of valves The stoker modifies the furnace’s operating mode by directing smoke gases in different directions. The house is heated internally from the hot walls of the furnace for several hours after the fire ends.

Required styling skills

You will require the following abilities and skills if you choose to fold such a heating device yourself:

• Correct brick properly, including chamotis;
• Fasten the doors and valves so that they provide tightness, do not destroy the masonry due to temperature heating and look beautiful;
• Drink and grind the brick, giving it the necessary, including complex, shape;
• use the level and system of plumb line;
• lay out arched arches;
• prepare a masonry solution, selecting the correct proportions of clay and other components.

What to do if you do not have any skill?

If you discover that you lack any aptitude, don’t give up; instead, learn everything you can about the subject, both theoretically and practically, by watching videos that have been uploaded online.

Once you’ve determined what, how, and why something is being done, start by practicing on a basic task. You will "fill" your hand in one to three weeks, and these abilities will be sufficient to install Kuznetsov’s basic stove.

Necessary tools

You’ll need the following instruments to build the furnace, including Kuznetsovka:

1. Drill or punch with nozzle to knead the solution.
2. Containers for kneading the solution and soaking brick.
3. Bulgarian with discs on stone and metal.
4. Sutual shovel.
5. Celma or trowel.
6. Level and plumb line.
7. Passatigi.
8. Roulette.
9. Hammers – ordinary and rubber or wooden (kiyanka).

Foundation and chimney requirements

Any furnace’s foundation is its base; if it is constructed unevenly or lacks adequate bearing capacity, the bake will not endure very long. For this reason, it is best to build the heating device’s foundation at the same time as the house foundation and to the same standard.

If you purchased a home without a stove, keep in mind that the deeper you need to dig the foundation, the softer the soil and the larger the recommended foundation area. Build the upper portion of the bay’s foundation columnar, with the stove filled at the top, or monolithic using the same reinforced concrete as the lower portion.

The chimney’s section should match the firebox’s power; generally speaking, a cross-section that is "in half a brick," or a square with a side measurement of 12 cm, is ideal.

If you intend to connect multiple furnaces to a single chimney, then follow the same standard for each heating device: "half a brick," or 140–150 cm 2.

The upper edge of the chimney should rise above the firebox by at least 5 meters, even though the requirements for the thrust of the caps are much lower than those of the channel.

Recall that two-colp stoves cool smoke gases very effectively, so some stovers prefer pre-made sandwich pipes with basalt cotton wool. It is also advisable to warm the chimney pipe to reduce condensation.

The selection of the design of the device, drawings and diagrams

Igor Kuznetsov’s website features numerous projects featuring furnaces with diverse shapes and configurations, along with sketches and estimations related to them.

To select the best fit for your circumstances, ascertain:

• what size of the furnace will be optimal based on the heat loss of the house;
• What configuration of the furnace or furnace you need;
• What additional functions you would like to see from your furnace.

The house’s heat loss is taken into account when choosing the furnace’s power and size. This can be done by hand or with the help of an online calculator. Any brick furnace must adhere to the following rule: every square meter of heating surface exposed to a furnace twice daily releases 0.5 kW/h of thermal energy.

Consequently, a larger stove might be more appropriate for a tiny, poorly insulated home than for a much larger, well-insulated one.

Choose the best configuration for your furnace; it could be a single wood or coal firebox, or it could be multiple furnaces of various kinds, such as a Russian or a fireplace. While having more furnaces won’t increase the bake’s power, you will be able to control it more comfortably. For instance, you can put coal into it during extremely cold temperatures, and sitting in front of the fireplace during rainy weather is nice.

Decide what extra features you’ll require as well. For instance, you would like a bread chamber that doubles as a dryer integrated into the stove or a lie to the stove to adjust the stove.

For five-stands, stoves will be the most efficient since they help cook food in addition to heating the house; if the oven is integrated into the heating device, pies can be made with it.

Some blacksmiths have devices called "calorieces," which heat the air that passes through them. These stoves are helpful for air conditioning homes because all that is needed is to install an air duct in each room, and the warm air will naturally find its way there.

After deciding on the heating device’s configuration, search the author’s website for the furnace that best suits your needs.

Is it possible to simplify the structure without loss of effectiveness?

If you require the most basic, yet efficient stove possible, go with the heating devices created by Grum-Himailo and podgorodnik, from whom you have taken many ideas, rather than Kuznetsov and his students. Kuznetsov, IN. This is where the book "Domestic stoves of two -colp" comes in handy. Furthermore, the book "Fiery Stoves" by Professor Grum-Himailo will be helpful to you. It is available for purchase or free download on a number of websites.

Recall that Kuznetsov stoves have very strict requirements for the quality of their masonry and brickwork. As a result, only bricks that vary in size by no more than 1-2 mm in any direction can be used in their construction.

A larger size will not only make the item less aesthetically pleasing, but it also increases the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning in areas with the thickest seams.

This is the reason it’s best to peel these stoves, which means to go over steel tin, for instance:

• roofing iron;
• stainless sheet;
• galvanized sheet.

DIY oven construction

Because the general operations of all structures are the same and the configuration is the only difference, all the information you find in this section will assist you in laying brick furnaces. Regretfully, most "forging" involves only weapons and plans; many subtleties that are crucial to the final design’s quality and the furnace’s efficacy and safety are left out.

Formation of the material

Once the type and configuration of the furnace have been determined, determine the quantity and type of material required. When using a pre-made masonry mixture, make sure to buy it according to the quantity of bricks you plan to use. A bag containing a dry mixture will indicate how many bricks one bag will hold.

If you plan to make a clay solution, keep in mind that the precise ratios of sand to clay won’t be known until after the tests. When laying the furnace, avoid using any cement-based solutions as the masonry will break quickly due to the furnace’s temperature expansion being different from the brick parameter.

To form the nucleus of a chamotum Utilize prepared or DIY solutions. They will require a lot less than the masonry solution, based on chamotte clay. Recall that you should add 10–30% more pantry space if you use bricks whose sizes vary more than 1-2 mm on any side.

Preparation of the masonry solution

Use a cement mortar or concrete that has a 1:3 ratio of M500 brand cement to sand to build the foundation. If using concrete, add 3–9 parts plasticizer and crushed stone. The strength after solidification will be lowered if you omit the plasticizer and have to add more water.

The furnace should be laid using a clay-sand mixture. Make multiple solutions and adjust the ratio of sand to clay from 1:5 to 1:1. The density of the materials should be such that you can blind a ball with a diameter of 2–5 cm in order to find the ideal proportions of the components. After the balls are finished, let them dry for three to five days in the shade.

Too little sand was present in the balls that cracked during the drying process, causing the remaining balls to rise to the top of their height and fall to the hard floor or ground. There is not enough clay in the ball if it has dispersed. For the clay you have on hand, the same mixture—a ball that did not break or crumble—is ideal.

Use a cement-sand mixture in a 1: 3 ratio with the addition of a plasticizer to raise the chimney above the level of the roof. This will strengthen the mixture and produce more comfortable brickwork.

Use a mixture based on chamotis clay to lay a chamotary nucleus, choosing the proportions in the same manner as for a traditional masonry solution.

Keep in mind that concrete or cement mortar only lasts for about an hour and a half before it starts to grab and loses strength due to mixing after solidification. The clay solution has an infinite lifespan that is solely dependent on the volume of liquid. Even with a small press, you can squeeze the ideal liquid clay solution out of brick.

Creating the foundation

Avoid placing the stove too close to the wall as this will cut off at least one heating side and lower efficiency. The stove heats from all sides. In order to prevent a significant decrease in efficiency, if you still choose to place a heating appliance in the room’s corner, make sure there is a gap of 10 to 30 centimeters between the furnace’s walls and the room.

Place the foundation in the direction of the chimney. If the chimney is built into the wall, mark the stove so that it is perpendicular to the wall; if not, mark the spot where the chimney will be drilled if it must pass through the floors.

Because of this Mark the matching-sized square hole in the ceiling, fasten the plumb line to one of its corners, and then mark the matching point on the floor. Then, drawing the shape of the furnace and the foundation’s size should be done while keeping your focus on this mark.

Cut the hole in the floor covering in accordance with this drawing, reinforce the lag, and get the soil ready for the foundation installation. The kind of soil determines the preparation technique.

Depending on the type of soil, the foundation’s dimensions should be 10–40 cm larger in each direction than the furnace’s size. Underneath the foundation, place waterproofing, crushed stone, and sand pillows, making sure to fully compact each layer. Apply waterproofing to the foundation’s upper portion.

Don’t overlook reinforcement; it will strengthen the foundation and distribute pressure evenly across the ground, thereby decreasing the chance of subsidence. Let the concrete pillow to stand for at least two to three months (ideally six months), so that the solution has enough strength to withstand the weight of the furnace.

Keep in mind that all of Kuznetsov’s furnaces have lower heating, so it is necessary for fire safety that there be at least 20 centimeters between the furnace’s first row and any wood or other combustible material on the floor.

Laying waterproofing and first row

Liquid glass works well for waterproofing the area between the foundation and the furnace’s first row because, when applied to the foundation’s surface, it absorbs into the concrete or brick to form a waterproof layer. Additionally, a solution of liquid glass mixed with water and cement works well.

Bitumen and materials derived from it, such as roofing material, are not well suited because of the decreased heating required to produce a waterproofing layer. Any bitumen materials will rise if you install a stove without lower heating, that is, if the furnace and chimney’s output channel have four to six rows of bricks.

Fix the plumb line on the ceiling, using one of the stove’s corners or the angle of the hole beneath the chimney, to ensure that the first row is laid correctly.

Should there be any doubts about the wall’s levelness, place a few plumb lines in various corners to ensure that the heating device’s location is attached to the chimney opening rather than the wall.

Apply to the plumb line tied to the foundation marking and, if at all possible, secure the plumb line to prevent accidental movement. In the event that this isn’t feasible, use laser levels, making sure to align their rays precisely with the outer lines. After the furnace has been positioned correctly, waterproof the area with a thin layer of masonry solution and carefully lay the first row of bricks in the prescribed order.

Use two planes to check each brick, being careful not to find any irregularities larger than half a millimeter. Place the extreme bricks by marking or by following the laser level lines. Gather the extra solution after all the bricks have been laid, then beat all the cracks for them.

Masonry to the bottom of the furnace and installation of workers

Bricks should be strictly ordered. Make an effort to guarantee that the seam thickness is consistent throughout, ranging from 3 to 5 mm. Once a layer has been laid, gather the entire solution, seal any gaps, and remove the remaining material into a container along with the completed solution.

Install extinguished bricks if you don’t have lovely treatment doors. Regular bricks will work just fine, but they should stick out of the masonry so you can see where the channel is and which bricks need to be removed to clean it.

Installing an extinguished brick in a quarter is acceptable where the channel is composed of shelter because, being far away from the hot smoke stream, the thermal load on it will be significantly lower, preventing it from overheating.

Topka laying and installation of a furnace door

If you decide to use Kuznetsov’s oven after it is completed, carefully read the description to determine what kind of fuel it is meant for. Recall that working with coal in a firebox meant for firewood is not a good idea, and vice versa. The stove will break quickly if the rows of bricks made of different materials are bandaged when laying out the furnace and creating a chamotary core.

If you built the stove yourself, keep in mind that unlined furnaces can be dangerous and unreliable, so don’t skimp on the lining. Red brick is also appropriate for lining if your stove can only run on firewood. If there’s a chance that your stove will run on coal, at the very least, use only chamotis brick for the kernel.

Once the grater is installed, make sure the bottom of the furnace is flush with the gindrd rogue after it has been laid by cutting through the bricks. To prevent the stove from being torn by the grater that expands due to heat, leave a 5 to 10 mm thermal compensation gap on each side.

Sand or any other heat-resistant seal, like basalt wool, should be placed inside the grater’s slots after it has been laid. There are some stovers who fail to fill voids, but they do not suffer any consequences.

Place a layer of 0.5–1 cm thick basalt wool between the furnace’s walls and the chamotum nucleus to prevent the heating device from overheating and cracking from a sharp temperature difference.

Remember that you can’t depend on a brick to close the row above the door, so place bricks in a lock or a poke. To install the lock, cut the edges at a 45-degree angle and use a full brick to create a lock by cutting its edges similarly. Make a jumper if the door is too big and it doesn’t work out this way.

Overlapping of the firebox, caps and channels

A cast-iron slab is used to cover the firebox in heating hobs because it can withstand the heat produced by coal or wood easily. The final row of bricks must be felled, making a groove in them to accommodate the stove, to prevent a smoke leak from forming between the stove and the stove.

For this:

1. Fold the last row of the firebox on dry, that is, without solution, then lay the plate on top and circle its outline, adding one centimeter on each side, pencil or marker.
2. Convince the stove, remove the bricks and, putting the disk on the stone on the grinder, select a groove, the depth of which is 5 mm more than the thickness of the stove.
3. Fold the upper row of the furnace on the solution.
4. Put the basalt wool in the groove, 1 cm thick, then lay the plate on top.
5. If there is no such seal, then pour into the groove the even layer of sand 1 cm thick, then lay down and move the stove a little so that its surface is flush with the surface of the bricks, and pour the cracks between the stove and bricks.

For firewood and coal in heating furnaces without a slab, construct overlapping red bricks and use chamotte. Keep in mind that you cannot use metal to overlap masonry above the firebox due to temperature expansion, which will completely destroy the masonry above it.

If you intend to construct an arched vault, build a wooden or plywood support first, which you remove once the bricks are laid. One brick laid in a quarter will cover the channels or cap; if the length of one brick is insufficient, the block into the lock will only create an angle of 70.

Conducting a chimney through ceilings and roof

If there isn’t a chimney in the home where the oven is located and you have to do it yourself, carefully read through section 6.6, "Stove heating," of SNiP 41-01-2003 (SP 60.13330.2010), under "Heating, ventilation and air conditioning." There are specifications for chimneys that cover how they must function through both combustible and non-combustible ceilings. If a pipe is drawn through the roof, it should be sealed off from the flow using otter or some other method.

It is also advised that we closely examine topical discussion boards where members debate matters pertaining to chimney design and how they behave through roofs and ceilings.

Links to the most fascinating ones are provided below:

The order of laying rows and drying of the furnace

The order in which you lay the rows remains the same: no more than five rows should be laid in a day (ideally three or four). This applies whether you use a heating device in accordance with the completed project or have created something unique. This is because the clay-sand solution needs to absorb water and become strong enough to hold the weight of the bricks without squeezing them out.

Once the furnace is up and running, clean it outside to remove any remaining solution particles. Then, open all the valves and doors and let it dry for a month. Light up paper in the oven first, followed by small chips and finely chopped wood, to see if the stove has enough traction.

It is normal for the furnace to smoke during the first two to four minutes of operation due to insufficient thrust. However, once the caps, channels, and chimney have warmed up, you can assess the furnace’s actual traction. To prevent the masonry from cracking, even place the weak clan to dry the heating device.

Cocking and stinging

Igor Viktorovich Kuznetsov greatly exaggerated the requirements for the stove master’s qualification by placing both high efficiency and a beautiful appearance in the top spot. Because professionals at this level charge a premium for their services, building a furnace, even one of moderate size, including laying a foundation and building a chimney will cost about the same as gasifying a home and installing outdated water heating. Furthermore, the cost of a stove’s services will account for up to half of this sum.

It is very desirable to coat (plastering) or outlive it if you cannot afford the services of such a specialist and, for whatever reason, you are unable to obtain high-quality brick.

Use a regular pantry for coating, but increase the sand content by 20–40%. A surplus of sand will fill in cracks, and enough clay will form a robust shell because there won’t be any weight to test the plaster.

Any sheet metal (tin), including stainless steel and galvanizing, can be used for skinning; the kind of casing and the way it is attached to the furnace body will depend on your level of tinsmithing proficiency. The best way to fasten it for people without tinsmithing skills is to use a combination of a steel corner with a 20 mm shelf and dowel-bvils, which are 20–30 mm long and have metal dowels.

Okvyadovka Kuznetsov OIK 1

We present to you the OIK-1 stove, which was assembled by the article’s author from firsthand knowledge.

Take note! Although the website offers rough models that illustrate the basic idea of operation, the stove actually needs to be customized for a given set of circumstances.

Sure, here"s the main thesis for the article on "Kuznetsov Bake: Apart, Drawings, DIY Projects" for the "Heating and insulation of the house" site:"Kuznetsov ovens, known for their efficiency and eco-friendliness, offer a traditional yet innovative solution for heating homes. These Russian-style stoves use a simple design to maximize heat retention, making them both cost-effective and environmentally friendly. Whether you"re interested in building one from scratch or exploring DIY projects to enhance its efficiency, understanding the basic principles and designs can help you make the most out of this heating solution. Dive into this article to discover how Kuznetsov ovens work, explore detailed drawings, and find inspiration for your next DIY heating project."

Useful videos

We advise you to look up how to construct a heating cap OIK 14 by hand:

Let’s also take a look at the weapons for the cap in the 3D visualization program using the OVIK 1 hob:

However, how effective is a cap with a fireplace for home heating?

Investigating the world of insulation and heating for your house can frequently result in creative and effective solutions that not only keep your house warm but also give it a distinctive look. The Kuznetsov Bake is a unique option that is becoming more and more well-liked. This classic Russian stove is a compelling option for contemporary homeowners because it blends style and utility.

Regarding Kuznetsov Bake, there are numerous designs and drawings that can be customized to suit various spaces and tastes. There’s probably a design out there that will work for you, no matter how big or small your home is. What’s more, these stoves come with do-it-yourself projects that let you customize the stove to your exact specifications and taste.

Constructing a Kuznetsov Bake can be a fulfilling endeavor, offering not only a dependable source of heat but also a focal point for your house. These stoves can effectively distribute heat throughout the room with the right insulation, lowering energy expenses and their negative effects on the environment. A traditional Russian stove’s distinct charm also gives character to any space, fostering a warm and welcoming ambiance that you and your family can enjoy.

To sum up, the Kuznetsov Bake stands out in the field of home insulation and heating because it combines practicality, design flexibility, and DIY appeal. Discovering the possibilities of this traditional Russian stove can be a worthwhile journey, whether your goal is to add a distinctive feature to the interior of your home or enhance the warmth and comfort of your living space. Using cutting-edge ideas like the Kuznetsov Bake can make your house a stylish, eco-friendly, and cozy retreat.

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