Instructions for replacing heating pipes

Although replacing your home’s heating pipes may seem difficult, doing so is essential to ensuring the safe and effective operation of your heating system. Pipes may deteriorate, corrode, or lose efficiency as a result of sediment accumulation over time. Taking care of these problems not only makes your house more comfortable, but it also saves energy and lowers heating expenses.

Knowing what’s involved in replacing your heating pipes is crucial before you start the process. With the help of this guide, you should be able to handle the process step-by-step and be prepared to either take on the task yourself or, in the event that you choose to hire professionals, know what to expect. We can handle everything, from evaluating the condition of your pipes right now to doing last-minute inspections after installation.

Recall that each home has a different heating system, so there can be significant variations in the particulars of pipe replacement. The fundamentals are still the same, though. With an emphasis on the important factors you should take into account when replacing your residential heating system, this article will offer broad advice that is applicable to the majority of these systems. These tips will assist you in completing regular maintenance or handling an older home that needs to be updated successfully.

Step	Instruction
1	Turn off the heating system and water supply.
2	Drain existing water from the pipes.
3	Remove old pipes by cutting or unscrewing them.
4	Measure and cut new pipes to fit.
5	Install new pipes using fittings and clamps.
6	Seal connections with appropriate jointing material.
7	Test for leaks by turning the water on slightly.
8	Reinsulate the new pipes, if necessary.
9	Restore water supply and heating system.
10	Check system functionality.

Why do you need to change the pipes

The conventional heating system consisting of cast-iron radiators and steel pipes is no longer viable, not just ethically.

These systems’ primary drawbacks are:

• The tendency of steel and cast iron to corrosion – after many years of operation, can occur from the pipeline;
• “Overgrowing” calcium salts and a significantly small efficiency, the vitition of radiators with rust;
• the inability to lower the air from the batteries in the apartment.

The room is cold because the old wiring was either not done by the project or was not well thought out. The cold radiators and noisy risers that result from air in the coolant are additional annoyances.

When to replace pipes better

Summer is a good time to replace your heating. In an apartment building, there are no coolants in the system, and the neighbors won’t be upset. There is time to purchase supplies, consider all options, work methodically and thoughtfully, and not rush the task.

However, there is nowhere to go if there is a leak and the apartment’s heating pipes cannot be fixed or are not effective (there are too many rusty spots to close), as we change every year.

It is ideal to replace heating pipes in the summer.

Criteria for choosing material

The following inquiries should be considered when selecting heating pipes:

1. Inner diameter of the pipes that determines the water pass.
2. The strength of the heating boiler and the type of energy used, the size of the heated room.
3. Type of heating (closed or open). The characteristics depend on this.
4. The method of laying the contours. That is, a regular system is installed or hidden in the walls or in the floor. And this applies not only to the warm floor system. Fighting wiring is done by many owners when using ordinary convectors and radiators.
5. Methods of moving the heating used in the system: forced or natural. This is reflected in the size of the cross -sectional of the highways.
6. The maximum heating temperature of the coolant, the pressure created in the heating system.
7. Methods of installation of pipes.

Once all of the questions regarding the conditions of choice have been answered, you must choose the best pipe material.

Manufacturers carry pipes made of the following materials in specialty stores:

• Metal is steel, stainless steel or copper;
• Polymers – PP (polypropylene), PEX and PERT (stitched polyethylene);
• metal -plast – aluminum and plastic are used for manufacture.

You must consider their primary characteristics when selecting pipes for the heating system to avoid making a mistake. Conclusions regarding their suitability for the anticipated operating conditions can then be made more easily.

The cost of replacing the apartment’s heating pipes is separate.

Stages of installation and replacement

Necessary tools and materials

It is ideal to have a big piece of pipe in addition to the necessary abilities and presence when handling a welding machine.

In addition to the mirror, hermetic seam welding expertise is required. Under challenging circumstances, gas welding is easier.

In the event that welding is involved, radiators, shut-off valves, and privars with both long and short threads are required.

Furthermore, you require:

• 3 counter -hawks one at a radiator;
• 3 drives – one at a jumper and eyeliner;
• 3 valves DU20.

Valves can be set to either direct all of the water into the heating device or overlap the water flow through a jumper in different positions. Or use an open jumper to restrict the battery’s passage.

Ball-only valves only. It is preferable to disregard the topic of screw valves.

One of the carts may have a thermal tower or Drussel installed as an option. Very reliable, trouble -free and comfortable design. You will need to buy a cutting steel circle, a turbine, and a dick with a latch if you plan to assemble it by hand. All of the threaded straight sections will be ready to go. You’ll need every detail mentioned below: Two couplings and two tees (cast iron or brass). Using a vice, cut the threads.

To replace pipes, a few specific tools are needed.

Reset of risers

Households with lower outlets typically use risers in pairs. Will need to ascertain the precise nature of the riser’s interest. Visiting the apartment on the top floor and examining the jumper is an easy way to find out. Because of the upper roslin, one valve in the basement and attic will need to be blocked.

Finding valves is easy if you concentrate on the porches, which are always visible in the basement of the stairs. Once the intended entry has been located, determining the valve’s position is an easy task. After all valves have overlapped, either the plugs are twisted or the dischargers open.

To ensure that the reinforcement is fully functional, wait until the water is completely out of the system. It will be simpler to start and reset if reset valves are used in place of plugs.

It is only feasible to disconnect the riser during the heating season if an upper apartment pass is present.

You won’t be able to turn on the heating and lower the air conditioning if no one resides there.

A simple way to disassemble heating devices is to trim their eyeliner with a turbine. Then, from the radiator plug, the counter -hacks and the segment of the eyeliner are unscrewed. Two factors depend on the cutting of the riser: relations with neighbors from below and from above. Risers make sense to change through block. The most quickly corrosion ruins the pipe precisely inside the ceiling. You need to cut the pipe in the place where you can weld the finished or cut the thread on it. Preferably not close to the wall and to the floor. It is convenient to remove the chamfers and cut off the riser before cutting the threads with a grinder.

You must first remove the risers.

Cutting threads

However, it might be challenging to cut the thread for the first time.

Points to consider:

1. The pipe is removed with a turbine or file – a chamfer is removed – the entrance is made for the dick.
2. The holder with the dick is installed on the pipe with a long side. This is necessary so that the dick finds strictly perpendicular to its axis.
3. Short threads are cut on the riser – no more than 5 threads.
4. Когда плашка находит трубу, сжать держатель нужно с максимально доступной силой.
5. The riser itself, after the first chopped thread, is necessarily kept by the key. Strength is directed to such a direction to compensate for the rotation of the dick at the moment. The situation of tearing the thread from the radiator is quite real below or higher by the riser.
6. Threads are cut clockwise. The force directed to the key goes to the opposite direction.

The convector that is installed for welding is the exception. The pipe that is welded to the convector won’t break. Holding the riser while cutting the thread is not required.

Long threads are removed from the drive in the jumper and the eyeliner to the radiator (they will need to drive off the counter-hags and radiator plugs). The pipe is clamped in a vice during cutting to prevent melting and ruining the threads that have already been cut.

Cutting the threads in the heating pipes is the next step.

Assembly of risers and connecting radiators

Pipes that have been cut with threads on both ends are inserted through the overlaps and secured with couplings on the riser.

Flax twisted with either red thread or silicone sealant. Excellent outcomes from the polymer thread. Although winding is much more expensive, you can purchase it for a single task.

Len gives it a tightness. Silicone guards against deterioration and burnout. Tees are then coiled onto threads. The spacing between the threads aimed at the heating apparatus is precisely 0.5 meters along their axes.

Long drives are twisted into the cutting valves of the radiator – nozzles with a long thread at one end and a short length on the other. They need to drive out the emphasis of the radiator plug and counter right away. The following are twisted into the valves of the valve: with Mom-Mam"s threads with small nozzles or dad-mama.

The jumper is installed in the standard manner.

Next, the radiator is attached. In order for the thread’s axis and the axes to coincide, he hangs on the brackets. Moreover, it is driven into by pre-wiped traffic jams. with countrings as well.

You can get by using a minimal number of threads if welding is available.

The radiator pipes should be connected once the thread has been cut.

Crimping and first launch

There is still some work to be done: you must turn on the riser and test the design by applying pressure and resuming movement.

Trials are where we begin. An assistant is ideal at this point, who will notify anyone of any leaks with a simple tap on a riser or phone call.

All of the radiator’s valves should be blocked by opening the jumper valve. As a result, we restrict the quantity of threads that experience stress during the initial launch. Tighten the plugs or close the bottom reset. On a fresh riser, we partially open the valve.

The pressure in the riser roslice can be regarded as equal as soon as the water in the open valve calms down. All force is applied to the riser valves, which are located in the attic (for the upper roslice). The next step is a visual inspection. After arriving at the apartment, we carefully check every thread of the leak and slowly open the eyeliner valves, allowing the radiator to fill with water.

When the arrow from the outburst to the apartments is installed, open the screw valve on the risers if there are any. You can rip the valve off the rod by opening the other valve while standing.

All that’s left to do is release the air and initiate the motion.

1. In the houses where the lower outlet is in the apartment on the top floor open the Maevsky crane on the jumper between the risers. When water flows from the tap, do not leave: air bubbles can remain in radiators and be near the airborne delay. Only a heated riser speaks of the precisely beginning movement.
2. The upper rosel does not require active actions: the air cork will go into the expansion tank in the attic. If its volume is small, it is better not to be lazy and open the airborne at the top of the tank.

Identification of the heating system

The cost of the anti-aidist

The pressure testist

Possible errors and problems

The most typical mistakes made when changing the heating

• the use of heating pipes that are not intended for this purpose;
• The diameter of the heating pipes does not coincide with the described in the project;
• heating structure from pipes made of different materials;
• Heating wiring is done incorrectly;
• Installation of an indoor thermostat, which controls the work of the boiler, not where it is necessary;
• lack of the desired supply of height during the installation of warm floors;
• They did not check the system of warm floors for tightness before closing it with the finish flooring;
• They made a screed on a system of plastic pipes, and it was not filled with water;
• not made dilatation gaps or made incorrectly;
• turned on warm floors to heating when the screed has not yet dried up. Explore solid fuel boiler of prolonged burning by link.

The cost of replacing the heating system pipes

The cost of replacing the apartment’s heating pipes is:

1	Installation, waggon of battery		from 3 500 rub.
2	Installation, waggon of the battery (apartment)		from 4,000 rubles.
3	Installation of heating risers up to Ø 40 mm		from 150 rub.
4	Installation of the heating system of the heating system up to Ø 40 mm with insulation, 2 pipes (without earthwork)		from 700 rub.
5	Installation of a heating pump		from 3,000 rub.
6	Installation of RB heating		from 3,000 rub.
7	Installation of cranes, valves, balancing valves		from 600 rub.
8	PRESENTION OF THE PREASE HOUSE heating system		from 3,000 rub.
9	Diagnosis of the heating system, with departure (up to 50 km)		from from 2,000 rubles.
10	Repair, modernization of the heating system		price under a contract

Heating pipe replacement is a challenging but necessary procedure.

In your home, replacing your heating pipes can be a difficult but very worthwhile project. In addition to ensuring effective heating throughout your home, it guards against potential damage caused by corroded and outdated pipes. Whether you choose to hire experts or take on the project yourself, knowing the steps is essential to a successful update.

Through this guide, you’ve learned how to assess the condition of your existing pipes, choose the right materials for replacement, and follow a step-by-step process for installation. Key takeaways include the importance of planning, having the right tools on hand, and ensuring everything is properly fitted and sealed to avoid leaks and maximize the efficiency of your heating system.

In the end, updating your home’s heating pipes raises its comfort and value. You should anticipate reduced utility costs, a more evenly heated space, and the assurance that your system is dependable and up to date with this new configuration. By extending the lifespan of your home’s essential components, regular maintenance and timely updates to your heating system pay off.

One of the most important maintenance tasks for maintaining efficient heating and avoiding potential damage from old, corroded pipes is replacing the heating pipes in your home. Selecting the appropriate tools and supplies for the task is crucial before beginning. Turn off the water supply and empty the existing pipes first. Install the new pipes with the appropriate fittings and seals after carefully removing the old ones and inspecting the surrounding areas and connections for damage. After installation, progressively add more water to the system to check for leaks. This procedure improves your home’s long-term durability and safety in addition to its heating efficiency.

Video on the topic

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