Installation of the pump in the heating system: analysis of the basic installation rules and tricks

Having an efficient heating system is essential for keeping our homes warm and comfortable, especially during the colder months. The pump is one element that is essential to making sure our heating systems function at their best. The performance and energy efficiency of your heating system can be greatly increased by installing a pump. To ensure everything goes smoothly, though, getting it right calls for knowing the fundamental installation guidelines as well as a few astute shortcuts.

Although installing a pump in a heating system can seem like a difficult undertaking, it can actually be rather simple if you have the appropriate information and assistance. Placing the pump in the right location within the system is one of the basic guidelines to follow. The pump should normally be mounted on the return pipe, preferably in close proximity to the boiler. The pump can effectively circulate hot water from the boiler to the radiators or underfloor heating systems throughout the house thanks to this placement.

Making sure the pump is the right size is another crucial factor to take into account during installation. A pump that is too tiny for the system will have trouble moving water around efficiently, which could result in uneven heating and increased energy costs. On the other hand, an excessively large pump might use more energy than is necessary and result in unneeded system wear and tear. As a result, it’s critical to determine the appropriate pump size using variables like the heating system’s size and the pipework’s resistance.

Effective pump operation also depends on proper pipework layout. Ensuring smooth water flow and minimizing bends or restrictions in the pipework installation process minimizes the strain on the pump. Bypass valves are another feature that can help control water pressure and stop problems like pump cavitation, which over time can harm the pump.

Although following these fundamental installation guidelines is crucial, there are a few other astute tips that can help your heating system pump function even better. Insulating the pipes around the pump, for example, can reduce heat loss and increase energy efficiency. By modifying pump speed in accordance with the heating demand, smart controls or variable-speed pumps can also help optimize energy consumption.

In conclusion, if done properly, adding a pump to your heating system can significantly increase its performance and efficiency. Through adherence to fundamental installation guidelines like appropriate positioning, dimensions, and pipework arrangement, in addition to incorporating astute tactics like intelligent controls and insulation, you can guarantee your heating system functions seamlessly, providing year-round warmth and comfort for your house.

Basic Installation Rules Tricks
Ensure Proper Sizing Use a magnetic filter to catch debris and prevent blockages.
Positioning Install the pump on the return pipe for optimal efficiency.
Check Compatibility Ensure the pump matches the system"s flow and pressure requirements.
Electrical Connection Securely wire the pump following safety guidelines.

On the installation of additional units

One circulation pump will usually suffice in a closed or open radiator heating system where the boiler acts as the only source of heat. Additional units—possibly two or more—are used to pump water in more intricate schemes. Under these circumstances:

  • when more than one boiler plant is involved in the heating of a private house;
  • if a buffer container is involved in the strapping scheme;
  • The heating system has several branches serving various consumers – batteries, warm floors and an indirect heating boiler;
  • The same, using a hydraulic separator (hydraulic shotus);
  • to organize water circulation in the contours of warm floors.

Each boiler operating on a different fuel type needs to have its own pump unit for proper strapping, as demonstrated by the joint connection of the electric and TT-cats. We explain how it works in our other article.

The TT-boiler and electric

Because the circuit with the buffer capacity involves at least two circulation circuits—the boiler and the heating system—an additional pump is installed in it.

The system is divided into two contours by the buffer container, though there are actually more

A separate story is a multi-branch, complex heating scheme used in large cottages with two to four stories. Here, three to eight pumping devices—or more—can be used to supply coolant to various heating sources and stamping operations. Below is an example of a scheme of this kind.

When heating the house with heated floors, the second circulation pump is installed last. It works in tandem with the mixing node to prepare a coolant that ranges in temperature from 35 to 45 °C. This material provides an explanation of the scheme’s operating principle.

Due to the pump unit, coolant is forced to circulate over the warm floors’ contours.

Remind yourself. Pumping devices don’t always need to be installed on heating systems. The majority of wall-type electric and gas heat generators come with internal pumping units integrated into their design.

Where to put

Installing a circulation pump on the supply or reverse pipeline is advised, regardless of whether it is placed before the first branch or after the boiler. The materials used to make modern units can typically withstand temperatures between 100 and 115 °C. A more "comfortable" temperature is unachievable because few heating systems operate with a hotter coolant; however, if it makes you feel more at ease, make the return.

It can be positioned before the first branch or in front of the boiler, either in the direct or reverse pipeline.

There is a pump in the supply or reverse branch, and the hydraulics of the boiler and the remainder of the system are identical. What counts are the proper strapping installation and the rotor’s proper orientation in relation to space.

At the installation site there is one important point. If there are two separate branches in the heating system – on the right and left wing of the house or on the first and second floor – it makes sense to put a separate unit on each, and not one general – immediately after the boiler. Moreover, the same rule remains on these branches: immediately after the boiler, to the first branching of this heating circuit. This will make it possible to set the required thermal regime in each of the parts of the house, regardless of the other and also save on heating in two -story houses. How? Due to the fact that the second floor is usually much warmer than on the first and there is much less heat. In the presence of two pumps in the branch that goes up, the speed of the coolant is set much less, and this allows you to burn less fuel, and without prejudice to the comfort of living.

Heating systems come in two varieties: those with forced circulation and those without. Pumps are necessary for forced circulation systems to function; in natural circulation systems, they do function, but heat transfer is reduced. However, since the system is built as a hydraulic (with natural circulation) in places where electricity is frequently turned off, less heat is still preferable to none at all. The pump is then removed from the system. This results in heating that is highly dependable and efficient. It is evident that these systems differ in how a circulation pump is installed.

All forced-warm floor heating systems will not allow the coolant to flow through such big circuits without a pump.

Forced circulation

Installed straight into the supplier or reverse pipe gap (you choose), the forced circulation heating system without a pump is inactive.

Sand and other abrasive particles in the coolant are examples of mechanical impurities that cause the majority of circulation pump issues. They are capable of stopping the motor by jamming the impeller. Consequently, a mesh filter-gryazevik must be placed in front of the device.

Installing a circulation pump in a forced circulation system

Ball valve installation is also advised on two sides. They will enable the device to be fixed or replaced without requiring the system’s coolant to be drained. Lift the unit out by overlapping the taps. The water that was directly in this section of the system only partially merges.

Natural circulation

There is one key distinction in strapping the circulation pump in gravitational systems: a bypass is required. This jumper helps the system function well even when the pump isn’t working. One cutting crane ball, which is permanently closed while the pumping operates, is positioned on the bypass. The system operates in forced mode in this mode.

The circulation pump installation diagram for the naturally circulating system

The system functions like gravity when the electricity goes out or the unit malfunctions, opening the jumper tap and blocking the tap that leads to the pump.

Features of installation

One crucial element needs to be present for the installation of the circulation pump to proceed normally: the rotor needs to be unfolded to point horizontally. The flow’s direction is the second point. The case has an arrow pointing in the direction that the coolant should flow. Thus, unfold the unit such that the coolant is moving "on the arrow."

The pump itself can be installed vertically or horizontally, depending on the model chosen. It is not compatible with either orientation. And one more thing: power (created pressure) decreases by roughly 30% in a vertical location. When selecting a model, this has to be considered.

Competent choice of circulation pump

Purchasing overly strong pumping equipment is useless. He won’t have to labor because a strong pump will produce negative noise interference in addition to operating at maximum capacity. Precise calculations must be performed in order to outfit the heating system with intricate architecture. A rather archaic formula is used by the owner of a country house to choose a pump because the installed unit’s technical specifications must still be 10% higher than the calculated values.

The diameter of the pipeline, the maximum coolant pressure and volume, as well as the water’s density and temperature, all affect the pump’s capacity to meet the needs of the heating circuit.

  • The flow rate of the coolant Q (expressed in l/min) passing through the arbitrary section of the closed circuit is calculated by analogy with the flow of fluid for the boiler. That is, the flow values and power parameters of the boiler (p = q) simply equate the values of the flow. Simplified: if the power of the boiler is 20 kW, then 20 liters of coolant per minute can pass through it.
  • 10 kW batteries will consume 10 l/min water. Given the power of radiators, you need to calculate the water consumption in each of the rings of the heating network.
  • The flow rate of the coolant in the pipes depends on the diameter of the pipeline. The more resistance arises in the way of water movement. With a standard movement speed of pipes of 1.5 m/s, the attached table will help below in the calculations.

Table for figuring out the pipeline’s water flow

The pipeline’s length and the pump’s power are directly correlated. In other words, 0.6 m of pressure from pumping equipment will be needed for every 10 meters of the heating system. Simpler: 6.0 m of pump pressure is required to guarantee the 100-meter ring operates productively.

Two different kinds of pumping devices are used in heating systems to encourage the coolant to move:

  • “Dry” pumps, the rotor of which does not contact the coolant;
  • "Wet" pumps, the working part of which is immersed in the water pumped by them.

Large industrial, retail, and entertainment complexes, as well as multi-story buildings, are the primary applications for equipment featuring Sukhim, a hermetically insulated rotor. Owing to the audible noise pollution resulting from the air turbulence generated during the process, dry pumps are not required in the layout of private structures.

Pumps for circulation with "wet" rotors

The majority of "wet" pumps in brass or bronze housings—which contain ceramic and stainless steel components—are utilized to update the heating of country homes. They also serve as lubricants for the coolant they pump, extending the "life" of the method.

Pumps characteristics

Two primary characteristics of all circulation pumps are:

  • N – the magnitude of the pressure, t.e. heights to which the pump can lift the liquid (measured in meters);
  • Q – fluid consumption for a certain time period (measured in cubic meters), which has a direct dependence on the power of the heating boiler and the diameter of the pipes used.

Since the heating system’s pump is essentially never used to raise water, parameter Q serves as the primary indicator. Modern heating boilers frequently come with an integrated pump, negating the need to install a separate pump.

If the heated area has been increased or if a weak boiler is being used, a circulation pump needs to be installed. You must determine the fluid consumption in the circuit before adding a second pump to the heating system. Additionally, the length of the pipeline must be taken into consideration when selecting the pump’s power, as each 10 meters of circuit length requires 0.6 meters of pressure.

Equipment for pumping comes in two primary varieties:

  1. Dry. In such devices, the pumped liquid does not come into contact with the rotor. Tightness is achieved due to the seal located between the pump and its engine. The efficiency of dry pumps is about 80%, which allows you to successfully use them to pump large volumes of liquid. For the arrangement of home heating systems, pumps of this type are not used due to excessive noise level that they produce during operation.
  2. Wet. In this case, the rotor is immersed in the pumped coolant. Engine cooling is carried out due to water. Electricity is supplied to the device through the stator. Of the advantages of such equipment, it is worth noting durability, reliability, compactness, simplicity of maintenance and low noise level. The main disadvantages are low efficiency (no more than 50%), the ability to use such devices only in private houses and apartments, as well as complete unsuitability of wet pumps for pumping drinking water.

Difficulty installation of an additional pump in the heating system

Installation of the pump correctly

After determining whether adding a second pump to the heating system is feasible, the appropriate location must be selected.

The challenge lies not in determining the ideal power, though that is also crucial, but rather in maintaining the device’s consistency with the primary pump.

There are a few choices where installing extra components will be necessary. Installing extra heating in the house holds a special place among them. There are two ways that it can be put into practice:

  • Conducting a separate highway with radiators and all the necessary strapping. This will need an additional boiler;
  • The modernization of the existing system is the arrangement of a new heating circuit connected to the main. Then it will definitely be necessary to install an additional heating radiator or several.

The second choice is the most sensible one because it eliminates the need to purchase growing supplies and equipment. However, a second issue that comes up is the asynchronism of the pumps’ operation. This will result in an uneven water movement in pipes even with the same number of revolutions, which is the primary cause of hydraulic strokes.

Installation of a hydraulic shotus

Pump-equipped Hydrofiger

A completely new installation plan for an extra pump in the heating system is the only way out of this predicament. The hydraulic shot installation is its novel feature.

By making up for pressure drops in a specific system component, this device restores normal heating operation.

The main and reverse pipes’ pressure is brought back to normal by this device. Its installation is not necessary for the additional heating of the apartment because the increase in the circuit may be negligible. Nonetheless, provisions for the restoration of normal circulation and pressure should be made if the amount of water in the system rises by more than 20%. The following guidelines should be followed in order to install a hydraulic compensator and an extra circulation pump in the heating system:

  • Location – as close as possible to the input of the reverse pipe into the boiler;
  • Installation of shut -off valves for each contour of the pumps;
  • Installation of mesh filters.

You can create a basic analog for a hydraulic rifle if proper installation is not possible. In order to accomplish this, a passage to the heating system is made after the location where an additional pump is connected. Its ideal length is between 300 and 400 mm. Potential hydraulic strokes can be partially balanced by this circulation ring.

Double circulation pump

Two pumps

If it is physically impossible to change the configuration of the pipes, is it still possible to install an additional pump for heating? Installing two pumps is a more costly but efficient way to increase circulation.

When a gas boiler has an integrated circulation system, this is the best choice. The combined capacity of the new pumps ought to make up for the main pump’s forced stop. so that you can prevent the heating system from experiencing malfunctions.

The following are the benefits of this modification:

  • No need to change the standard installation scheme for an additional pump in the heating system;
  • The general pipe for connecting guarantees the absence of uneven movement of water in the pipes;
  • The ability to connect to the heating unit – the programmer.

Where to put the pump for the feed or to the return

Even with the wealth of information available on the Internet, it can be challenging for a user to comprehend the correct way to install a heating pump so that the water in his home is forced to circulate. The reason is that there are frequent disagreements on topic forums due to the inconsistent nature of this information. The majority of purported experts assert that the unit is only placed on the reverse pipeline, drawing the following conclusions:

  • The temperature of the coolant at the supply is much higher than in the return, so the pump will not last long;
  • The density of hot water in the supply line is less, so it is more difficult to pump it;
  • static pressure in the reverse pipeline is higher, which facilitates the operation of the pump.

Interesting fact. Occasionally, someone unintentionally walks into the boiler room that supplies the apartments’ central heating and notices the units that are cut into the return. After that, he believes that this is the only reasonable course of action, even though he is unaware that centrifugal pumps in other boiler houses can also be supported by the supply pipe.

We respond in paragraphs to the aforementioned statements:

  1. Household circulation pumps are designed for the maximum temperature of the coolant 110 ° C. In the home heating network, it rarely rises above 70 degrees, and the boiler will not heat the water more than 90 ° C.
  2. Water density at 50 degrees is 988 kg/m³, and at 70 ° C – 977.8 kg/m³. For an aggregate that develops a pressure of 4-6 m of the water column and capable of pumping about a ton of the coolant in 1 hour, the difference in the density of the moved medium is 10 kg/m³ (the volume of the ten -liter canister) is simply insignificant.
  3. In practice, the difference in the static pressure of the coolant in the supply and reverse line is equally insignificant.

Thus, the straightforward conclusion is that heating circulation pumps may be installed in a private home’s supply pipeline as well as in the system’s reverse. The efficiency of the building’s heating system or the unit’s performance will not be impacted by this factor.

Vladimir Sukhorukov, our expert, constructed the boiler room. Every piece of equipment, including the pumps, has easy access.

An exception would be low-cost, direct-burning solid fuel boilers without automation. Since burning firewood cannot be put out quickly, the coolant boils into them when they overheat. When the circulation pump is connected to the supply, water and steam from the resultant mixture enter the impeller’s body. The subsequent procedure appears as follows:

  1. The working wheel of the pumping device is not designed to move gases. Therefore, the productivity of the device is sharply reduced, and the speed of the coolant drops.
  2. Less water cooling is entered in the boiler tank, which is why overheating increases, and the steam forms even more.
  3. An increase in the amount of steam and its entering the impeller leads to a complete stop of the movement of the coolant in the system. An emergency situation arises and, as a result of pressure growth, the safety valve is triggered, which throws away steam directly into the room of the boiler room.
  4. If measures to extinguish firewood are not taken, then the valve does not cope with the discharge of pressure and an explosion occurs with the destruction of the boiler shell.

As a point of reference. The safety valve threshold in low-cost thin-metal heat generators is two bars. This threshold is given at the level of 3 bar in better TTs.

Experience demonstrates that no more than five minutes should elapse between the start of the overheating process and the valve being triggered. Steam won’t enter a return pipe fitted with a circulating pump, extending the time until an accident occurs to twenty minutes. In other words, installing the return unit won’t stop an explosion from happening, but it will delay one, giving you more time to fix the issue. This is why it is advised that pumps for boilers that burn coal and wood should be installed on a reverse pipeline.

It makes no difference where the installation is done for a well-automated pellet heater. Our expert’s video will provide you with additional information on the subject:

The efficiency and performance of your heating system can be greatly enhanced by installing a pump. You can guarantee that your pump works at peak efficiency, lowers energy costs, and contributes to a comfortable living environment by learning and adhering to the fundamental installation guidelines.

First and foremost, choosing the appropriate pump for your heating system is essential. Think about things like the size of your house, the kind of heating system you have, and the flow rate needed to efficiently circulate hot water. Selecting a pump with the right specs will increase its longevity and efficacy.

For best results, the pump must be positioned correctly inside the heating system. To guarantee that the pump can effectively circulate hot water throughout the system without running into air pockets or other obstructions, it should be installed on the return side of the system, close to the boiler or heat source.

The arrows on the pump casing indicate the direction of flow, so keep that in mind when installing the pump. Reversing the installation of the pump can cause problems with its operation, including lower flow rates and higher energy usage. During installation, double-checking the pump’s orientation can help avoid costly errors.

It is imperative to make sure the pump is appropriately sized for your heating system in addition to making sure it is positioned and oriented correctly. Ineffective water circulation from a small pump can result in uneven heating and higher energy usage. On the other hand, an oversized pump may result in high flow rates and needless system component wear and tear.

Lastly, remember how crucial it is to give your heating system and pump routine maintenance. The lifespan of the pump can be extended and expensive repairs can be avoided by keeping it clear of debris, inspecting it for wear or damage, and lubricating the moving parts as needed. You can extend the lifespan and optimize the efficiency of your heating system pump and guarantee dependable operation for many years to come by adhering to these simple installation guidelines.

In setting up a heating system, installing a pump is crucial for efficient heat distribution. Understanding the basics is key: ensure the pump is correctly sized for your system, matching the flow rate and head requirements. Placement matters; install it on the return pipe to push heated water back into the system effectively. Proper insulation around the pump prevents heat loss and maintains efficiency. Pay attention to the direction of flow and the pump"s rotation, ensuring it aligns with the system"s design. Regular maintenance, like lubricating bearings and checking for leaks, keeps the pump running smoothly. With attention to these installation rules and tricks, your heating system can operate optimally, keeping your home warm and comfortable while saving on energy costs.

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