Doing projects ourselves can save money and time when it comes to home improvement and maintenance. One project that a lot of homeowners might think about is putting in plastic pipe sewerage systems. Although it may seem difficult, DIY enthusiasts can lay and fix sewerage pipes if they have the proper assistance and knowledge of the procedure. We’ll go over the fundamental guidelines and procedures for installing sewerage from plastic pipes in this post, giving homeowners the confidence to tackle this project.
Plastic pipes are becoming more and more common for sewage systems because of their affordability, ease of installation, and durability. Plastic pipes are the perfect material for modern plumbing projects because they are lightweight, resistant to corrosion, and unaffected by chemicals, unlike more conventional materials like metal or clay. Furthermore, plastic pipes are adaptable and simple to cut and join, enabling flexible layouts to accommodate a range of needs and home designs.
It’s important to become familiar with the fundamental parts of a sewerage system before beginning the installation process. Pipes, fittings, and connectors work together in a typical system to transfer wastewater from the home to the septic tank or main sewage line. Comprehending the roles and connections among all components is imperative for an effective installation.
Thorough planning and preparation must be done before starting any work. This entails planning out the sewer system’s layout, placing pipes in the best possible locations to guarantee effective drainage, and, if needed, obtaining the required permits and approvals from local authorities. Homeowners should also spend money on premium plastic pipes and fittings that adhere to local sewer installation codes and standards.
The sewerage pipes need to be laid and fixed after the planning phase is finished and all materials are gathered. Usually, the procedure entails creating trenches big enough for the pipes, making sure the drainage system slopes properly for gravity-based drainage, and firmly attaching the pipes with the right supports and brackets. To avoid obstructions and guarantee a smooth wastewater flow, great attention should be given to the alignment and elevation of the pipes.
- Transportation
- Rules of installation of plastic pipes for water supply
- Replacing cast iron sewer pipes with plastic pipes
- Installation of sewerage from PVC pieces
- Rules for laying sewerage pipes indoors
- Prevent clogs in PVC pipes
- Installation with minimum clogging
- The subtleties of installing plastic pipes with your own hands
- Pipe diameter selection and design
- Planning and preparation of works
- How to determine the optimal depth of laying?
- Plastic pipes: step-by-step installation
- What to do after purchasing materials
- Laying the sewerage system in a private house
- Features of the internal construction
- Selection of materials for the sewerage system
- Concealed method
- Preparatory work
- Prefabricated well
- Types of wells
- Assembly of the external system
- Peculiarities of internal wiring
- Video on the topic
- Installation of plastic sewer pipes
- Installation of sewer pipes in the house with their own hands
- ERRORS IN PLUMBING! | How not to do sewer installation with your own hands
- " Installation of PIPES / 7 Tips / CHANNELIZATION IN A QUARTIER / HOUSE.
Transportation
Polypropylene pipes and fittings should be transported, loaded, and unloaded at a temperature no lower than minus 10°Ρ. Lower temperature transportation is only permitted when specific devices are used to guarantee pipe fixation and extra safety measures are taken during loading and unloading.
Polypropylene pipes and fittings need to be shielded from mechanical stresses and shocks, as well as scratches on their surface. Pipes should be placed on the flat surfaces of vehicles during transportation to shield them from the platform’s ribs and sharp metal corners.
Rules of installation of plastic pipes for water supply
Only when the installation guidelines are followed can a private home’s system function qualitatively:
- Take into account the properties of the material at the mixing points. To connect corrugated pipes, a different technology is used than when working with smooth-walled elements.
- The sockets are directed against the flow. Then inside the surface will have minimal resistance to drains.
- Plastic parts of the same cross-section are used to connect with metal pipes of the old sewerage system.
- Horizontal sections and the riser are fixed on the wall after 1 m. If the sections are small, near each socket.
- Fan ventilation in the scheme gets rid of odors penetrating from the septic tank or well. It also prevents the suction of hydraulic traps from traps when discharging a large volume of water.
As few joints as possible should be done because there could be a leak. A high number of turns raises the possibility of system clogging.
Replacing cast iron sewer pipes with plastic pipes
Cast iron pipes were used in the restroom and bathroom of older homes. wish to swap them out for a contemporary analog. In order to prevent accidents, it is important to reach a consensus with neighbors regarding the riser. Copes easily. Now let’s get going:
- Saw out the old riser: leave 10 cm from the top, 40 cm – from the bottom. To make it easier, several notches are made with a small jumper, then knocked out with a sledgehammer. The main thing is not to damage the rest.
- The places of connection with plastic are cleaned.
- Fixings for the new riser pipe are prepared.
- Plastic is installed with sockets upwards, the work should start from the bottom.
- After preliminary fitting, the plastic is installed and secured with clamps with rubber gaskets.
You now understand how to install water supply, heating, and sewage systems using contemporary materials. Additionally, the home handyman is capable of doing anything.
Installation of sewerage from PVC pieces
It is advised to assemble the sewer system moving from the riser to the plumbing fixtures in order to prevent leaks and inconsistencies.
Guidelines for installing sewage using plastic pipes:
- Mark the axes of pipelines, places of fastenings to walls and other surfaces.
- Assemble the fixture assemblies from pipes, spigots and fittings with the help of sealed rubber bands. Insert the parts into each other as far as they will go. Make sure that the surfaces to be bonded are clean. Dirt will compromise the tightness of the connection. This leads to leaks and unpleasant odor due to condensation of moisture (at joints, from sinks, bathtubs and the sewer itself).
- Join the parts of the structure, check the horizontal and vertical alignment to ensure that the fasteners are level and secure.
- Fasten the products in clamps, lay horizontal structures to traps and outlets of sanitary ware.
Expert advice: lubricate the ends of the sections with glycerin-based lubricants, auto sealants, soap solutions, or non-acidic sealants to improve tightness.
Rules for laying sewerage pipes indoors
Reduce as many joints and turns as possible; one-piece communication is more dependable and long-lasting. Every bonding point has the potential to leak in the future, and bends make clogging more likely.
To achieve a high-quality outcome, adhere to these guidelines when installing sewer pipes:
- When working with plumbing, take into account the peculiarities of the material, for each mixing unit – its own technology.
- When calculating the diameter of the products, take into account the angle of slope and the number of appliances to be connected. Use a diameter of 100-150 mm at the riser connection site.
- Use a diameter of 100-150 mm at the riser pipe and horizontal sections to face the sewage flow.
- If before laying new communications was carried out dismantling of sewer pipes in the apartment or house, use plastic parts of the same diameter as the old one.
- For horizontal layouts it is allowed to use a diameter of 100 mm, as in the case of the toilet riser, for the rest of the single fixtures is sufficient 50 mm.
- The slope of the system should be 4-7 cm per 1 m.
- To prevent the sewer system from sagging, attach sections to the walls every 100 cm.
- Be sure to include the fan ventilation in the drawing. This will help regulate the pressure in the drain compartments and get rid of unpleasant odors.
Prevent clogs in PVC pipes
Even though it’s simpler to remove PVC pipes than cast-iron sewer pipes in the event of a break, this is still an inconvenient and expensive event. Provide "cleanouts" with plugs in order to prevent the need to remove or replace installed communications in the event of a blockage. Adding extra vertical bends to air check valves is another preventive measure (a diameter of 50 mm is sufficient).
Every 15 meters, install revisions with detachable covers when installing pipes for outdoor sewerage. at the point where the riser pipe and horizontal sections meet for internal systems. If the sewer gets clogged, cleaning it will be simpler after taking this step.
Installation with minimum clogging
- When the pipe is laid with a bend, it is better to create two bends at once, the radii of which should be equal to 45 degrees. This prevents blockages and reduces the noise level when draining water.
- Sewer clogging can occur due to roughness on the inner surface of the product. For this reason, deposits accumulate, which over time turn into a large clog. It is important that the joints are free of burrs and other irregularities. The smooth internal surface can be spoiled by untreated pipe ends.
The subtleties of installing plastic pipes with your own hands
For the system to function correctly in the future, the following nuances need to be noted:
- Pipe cutting must be accompanied by deburring of the pipe edges. To make the work easier to perform, it is worth taking a saw with small teeth and a wide blade: the cut will be made at right angles, and the number of scoring will be minimal.
- Before assembling the sewer pipes, it is worth performing a preliminary assembly, during which reference marks are made. The system is then disassembled.
- When laying the pipeline in the wall, metal pipes are most often used, which are connected to the sanitary appliances through plastic pipe sections. Couplings without sockets are used to connect different types of pipes.
- When drilling a hole for a pipe, the standpipe may become loose. The problem can be remedied by using special pads, which restore the original strength of the posts.
Pipe diameter selection and design
It’s critical to choose the PVC pipe material’s diameter precisely to guarantee the sewer system operates smoothly. It is vital to take into account the sanitary equipment’s capacity when solving the issue with the sewer mains.
Selection criteria for the diameter:
- 32-40 mm is suitable for a washbasin or kitchen sink;
- A diameter of at least 50 mm is used to connect a bathtub or shower cabin;
- More than 50 mm is used for a dishwasher or washing machine;
- Diameter not less than 70 mm is used when connecting toilet bowls;
- Three-inch pipes will be required if several types of plumbing equipment are to be installed at once.
It is advised to use products with the same diameter to create the distribution (internal mains) rather than buying pipe material with varying diameters. It is preferable to stop at the largest diameter that is necessary for plumbing system maintenance.
Sewer pipes should be insulated if needed.
It is essential to consider the design quirks prior to assembling the sewer pipeline. It is best if the sections are laid on an inclined surface.
It is advised to connect restrooms in close proximity to the riser, ensuring that the section’s length does not exceed one meter. Reducing the number of pipe joints is advised in order to improve the structure’s dependability.
Planning and preparation of works
The non-pressurized sewer system in a single-family or multi-family home is intended to transport sewage to a communal standpipe. This is accomplished by implementing a specific pipe slope. The efficiency of the work planning, which includes the following, determines the caliber of sewer pipe installation in a private or apartment building:
- Selection of a place for sanitary appliances;
- Preparation or inspection of the existing sewer system;
- determining quantities and types of materials;
- purchasing the necessary parts;
- test assembly and testing of the sewerage system;
- dismantling the old or preparing for the installation of a new system;
- performing the installation of sewer pipes, installing equipment, sealing the system;
- connection and testing of plumbing.
Make sure the sewer pipes are clean, have a sealing collar and chamfer on the end, and are free of burrs before beginning the manual installation process.
Crucial! The seal may be distorted by temperature changes in the sewer system, so silicone grease should be applied to it prior to collar installation.
When installing sewer pipes by hand, even minor mistakes in the planning process can cause major issues with the system’s overall functionality.
Marking the locations of pipes and plumbing fixtures is a prerequisite.
How to determine the optimal depth of laying?
The parameter in question must meet the following requirements:
- The construction should run below the maximum level of soil freezing. If we are talking about the European part of the Russian Federation or the southern part of Ukraine, then a depth of 80 cm will be quite enough.
- The entrance to the pit (in some cases – in the septic tank) is carried out at a depth of 100 cm.
- If the temperature of waste water is at least 15 degrees, the output from the building is carried out at a minimum depth of 50 cm. If it is impossible to locate at the specified depth, it makes sense to think about insulating the structure with moisture-resistant insulation, such as glass wool.
Correct installation of your home’s insulation and heating system is crucial for both comfort and energy economy. Insulation and well-installed heating systems can save energy costs dramatically while keeping your house cool in the summer and warm in the winter. Maintaining a cozy home and reducing energy waste requires careful consideration of every step, from selecting the best insulation to installing effective heating systems. Investing in these areas of your house can save you money in the long run and help the environment, whether it’s upgrading to a more energy-efficient heating system, sealing drafts around windows and doors, or insulating your attic.
Plastic pipes: step-by-step installation
Diagram of the plastic pipe sewerage device.
Begin work on the installation of a new sewer should be started from the topmost point of the entrance. From it the sewage will then go down the slope. On vertical and horizontal sections, the elements should be directed towards the flow of liquid. Sewerage in apartments is gravity-flow, so it is important when installing to observe the slope, so that in the future there is no clogging. To control the slope, which should be 2 cm for every 2 m, use a level. When laying the sewer on top of each pipe install a level and slope it in the desired direction by 2 cm. Connect the pipes so that the socket is always directed upwards.
- Clean the cast iron socket from dirt. Coat the pipe with sealant.
- In the rubber collar, to connect plastic and cast iron, insert a socket.
- Fix a tee in the collar.
- Cut the rest of the pipes to size (see the following table). sketch). Cutting angle 90°. Work can be done with a hacksaw or a special pipe cutter. Chamfer the edge by scraping it with a file at an angle of 15°. The cut should be smooth, without dust and plastic residues. Note: the fittings cannot be cut, they are already made to the required dimensions.
- If necessary, for laying sewerage in the walls, make grooves. In them the elements are fixed with clamps and filled with cement mortar from above.
- Connect the pipes using one of the above methods (glue or welding).
- In horizontal and vertical sections, parts of the plastic sewerage system must necessarily be fixed to the surface (walls or floor) with special brackets. This is necessary, since plastic is a lightweight material and can bend under its own weight.
- Check the tightness of all connections: fittings should sit tightly, there should be no damage to the plastic.
- Install water meters and other elements. Lay the water.
What to do after purchasing materials
The wastewater system uses a gravity flow. A trunk line to the riser should be laid from the drain’s furthest point, and the related drains should then be connected to it.
- The main rule for laying sewer pipes is the slope, which should be 1 cm per 1 meter, but a more precise calculation depends on the diameter. The highest point will be near the farthest source. It is necessary to make a marking and fix the fixing. If you make the angle larger, the water will pass too quickly, the dirt will begin to accumulate, and as a result – a gap.
- Choose the correct diameters for each element of the sewer can be as follows – toilet 11 cm, sink and bath 5 cm, for everything else 3.2 cm. It would seem that it is better to apply everywhere the same cross-section, but if you take less than necessary, you will get overpressure, and if more, there is a lack of water and clogging.
- The change of the sewer main direction is performed with the help of fittings 450, and to make a turn at an angle of 90 degrees, it is necessary to use 2 fittings at once.
- It is not difficult to combine the factory sewer pipes with each other, since they are prepared. If you cut them (you can do with any convenient tool), then the ends will need to be cleaned with a knife, sanded, connect the socket, which is directed toward the drain.
- All gaskets (rubber) must be soft, with the correct shape, without deformation, and those that do not meet the requirements must be replaced. If it is difficult to assemble the elements, a special lubricant with silicone is used. If you neglect this condition, there may be a leak, which will have to be sealed with sealant from above.
- Fasteners are placed 1 piece for each meter of the main line, in the places of connection.
In a country house it is important to connect to the external sewerage system. In multi-storey buildings it is necessary to connect the assembled construction to the main riser pipe. The outlet of the sewer from plastic, which stands in the cottage, should be protected by a galvanized sleeve, thus protecting from damage from the outside. For outdoor sewerage, a cross-section of 11 cm is used, and the corrugation must be strong. In the ground, the main line should be lower than the ground freezing level, 1.5-2 meters. It should be covered with a cushion of a mixture of clay and sand, making the damage smaller. If it is not possible to lay it so deep, it is worthwhile to insulate everything with mineral wool.
Laying the sewerage system in a private house
The walls’ thickness is the primary distinction between water supply and sewerage systems. Because there isn’t much head or pressure surge in the drainage system, thinner walls were chosen. Sewer installation is split into two categories for owners of private homes or cottages: internal and external sewer installation.
Installation of indoor sewerage
Features of the internal construction
Use products with small diameters (50, 100, and 110 mm) for interior works. When laying the drain from the toilet to the collector, the widest is utilized. A diameter of 50 mm is adequate for connecting additional sanitary appliances. The following guidelines must be adhered to when setting up the internal system:
- The width of the fan pipe should not be less than the main trunk branch.
- The connection of horizontally adjacent branches should only be made using beveled tees.
- Make a design scheme, work should be carried out where it will be more convenient. The location should take into account the accessibility for repair in case of emergencies. Most often this is the basement.
- The main part of the structure is assembled in the warm part, the final one is taken outside.
- An obligatory requirement is the presence of a protective, outlet valve.
- Turns should be equipped with revisions – this is access to the interior of the structure. It is necessary, since it is in these places that most problematic situations occur.
- Special attention should be paid to the installation of the fan pipe.
- Install the sewer at an angle of 45 degrees.
- The place of exit to the street must be reliably sealed.
Putting in a drain with an outlet beneath the toilet bowl Once you have resolved all the nuances, you can begin to assemble the internal sewage system. To do this, the following equipment needs to be ready:
- hammer, chisel;
- silicone sealant;
- soldering iron for plastic pipes;
- level, marker.
Marking the scheme from the riser tee entrance to every plumbing fixture is the first step in the preparation process. Marks are placed with consideration for the required slope. Sewer pipe clamps are mounted to the walls and ceiling in accordance with the diameter.
The force of gravity is the internal sewer connection’s peculiarity. Physics states that wastewater drains downward due to gravity. As a result, the assembly is done at a 1-1.5 degree slope. The choice of the prefabricated elements’ diameter is another crucial factor:
- For the riser and corrugation under the toilet bowl choose a diameter of 100mm.
- For laying the mains to the bathroom and sink – 50mm.
- Drain from household appliances (washing machine) – 32 mm.
Various diameters of plastic pipes *
Once every component of the structure is fitted, move straight on to the laying phase. The following will be the sequence of events:
- The inner surface is sanded to a light roughness. This will ensure better adhesion of the material.
- The edges of the parts are degreased with methylene chloride.
- The elements are glued together. Use a swab or brush to apply a small layer of glue to the inner part of the socket and a thicker layer to the outer connecting surface.
- The fitting is put on so that the marks correspond to the dimensions of the markings. Then the parts are unfolded according to the marks. They must match each other. Hold in this position for about 30 seconds.
- The joint is sealed with sealant or glue.
Gluing plastic components together This plan calls for the assembly of the entire construction. Plastic pipes can be connected with a soldering iron if you have one, but sealant must be applied to the joints. If all the guidelines are followed, assembling the entire sewer system shouldn’t take longer than three hours. The hand-installed drainage system in the apartment is also covered by this plan.
Selection of materials for the sewerage system
Plastic pipes (polypropylene, polyvinyl chloride, and polyethylene) are used in the installation of sewerage systems in 99 percent of cases. The benefits of communications made of synthetic materials include their durability, resistance to corrosion and hydrothermal loads, light weight, and ease of assembly.
Note: Because the pressure is lower in sewerage constructions than in water supply, plastic parts of much smaller thickness can be used.
The important thing to pay attention to is diameter. Depending on the kind of sanitary equipment, this value will vary. Minimum diameters:
- bidets and sinks – from 32-40 mm;
- Shower cabins and bathtubs – from 50 mm;
- If more than one appliance is supposed to be connected to the pipe – from 70-85 mm;
- main risers – from 100 mm.
Make a thorough plan of the future communication system with consumable calculations before starting the manual installation of sewer pipes. Determine the quantity and measurement of the parts and fittings.
Important: To lessen the possibility of clogging, avoid making right angles when bending. To achieve a smooth turn, use two 45° fittings rather than one 90° connection.
In addition to saving money and room in the room, using a single drain for multiple sanitary appliances will improve the overall aesthetics. Based on the above suggestions, determine the necessary pipe diameter. A sink, bathtub, and washing machine can all be connected to a single pipe that leads to the common riser pipe. The riser pipe and the toilet need to be connected directly and independently.
Concealed method
Trees, structures, and other natural features on the homestead plot could provide challenges for excavation efforts. Since it is not feasible to install the sewer in an open manner in this situation, it is essential to contact experts who can install the pipeline without compromising the integrity of the ground.
The puncture method is another name for the covert method of installing the sewer system.
- A special drilling rig is used to make a pilot hole under the ground from the location of the well to the spigot of the home sewerage system.
- Expand the well to a diameter 1.5 times the cross-section of the pipeline.
- The end of the pipeline is attached to the nozzle on the end of the drill and pulled into the borehole.
Be aware that the pipeline’s geometric shape may contain an error due to the hidden method’s minus. The pipeline’s straightness or slope angle may be altered because the drill is operated remotely.
Preparatory work
You will need specialized equipment to lay a channel in floors, walls, and furniture in the necessary configuration before you can install a sewer disposal pipeline.
The following equipment and tools must be used:
- oil or diamond level;
- A perforator with a set of drills, percussion bits and a diamond bit;
- tape measure;
- hammer;
- chisel
- marker;
- silicone grease.
Drawing a horizontal line from the riser’s tee entrance to each water user is the first step in getting ready to install the sewer. Following that, markings are made every 50 cm, which corresponds to the necessary slope. To prevent errors, supports are positioned where the pipes will be installed during assembly. Clamps with the proper pipe diameter are installed in holes drilled in the walls. Ultimately, the bed is cleared, the holes are drilled, and the debris is taken out.
Prefabricated well
The collector or septic tank, a well into which the sewage flows from the pipeline, comes last in the hierarchy of sewage but does not play a part in the sewer system’s functioning. Make sure the well is situated where the drainage system’s lowest point is.
The separation between the well and other nearby and on-site objects is as follows:
non-residential outbuildings | 1 |
residential buildings | 5-7 |
water intake well | 50 |
fence between plots | 2 |
open ponds | 15 |
Types of wells
One of three types of wells can be outfitted for a private residence:
- accumulation well or collector – a sealed container into which sewage enters, when the collector is full, the sewage is pumped out;
- well with additional treatment, septic tank – a tank of several chambers connected in series, in which wastewater is gradually settled, the sludge is processed by bacteria, and partially treated water enters the last of the chambers and from there goes into the soil;
- Deep treatment plant – a well with filters and a bioreactor (a set of substances and bacteria), where wastewater is purified from dangerous microorganisms and safe organics are separated, the purified water goes into the soil and the separated organics can be used as fertilizer.
The first two kinds of wells are capable of being outfitted by hand. For this, prefabricated plastic tanks or rings made of reinforced concrete are utilized. Concrete and bricks are also used to make septic tanks.
Because it takes specialized knowledge, equipping a deep treatment station by hand is challenging. This kind of well can be purchased and installed ready-made in a pit that has been prepared more easily.
Assembly of the external system
Orange-colored pipes are used to install an outdoor gutter system. In this instance, coloring denotes that these products are only used outside of the room.
To make room for the drainage system to be installed, a cushion made of crushed stone and sand is used. Such a blanket has a maximum height of 200 mm. Such a laying is created both on top of and beneath the pipes. Crushed stone is poured after sand. There’s no reason to break the laying order.
Installing outdoor sewage in a private home
Sewerage system laying is done in trenches that have been specially prepared. Insufficient trench height may cause the system to freeze. As a result, it’s essential to understand how deep to bury the plastic sewer pipe. To determine this parameter, the following prerequisites must be met:
- The path of the system should run below the level of soil freezing. This figure will vary depending on the region. In the European part this figure is 80 cm.
- At the entrance to the septic tank or sewage pit, the level is lowered to a mark of 100 cm.
- The depth of the trench at the outlet under the foundation is 50 cm, provided that the temperature of sewage is above 15 degrees Celsius.
If installing the system at this depth is not feasible, heating cable or insulators are used to insulate the pipes. They won’t prevent the liquid from freezing and the formation of ice plugs, but they will aid in retaining heat within the system.
Restricting the house’s drainage system
Install sewer pipes in the following manner:
- The pipe is inserted into a special sleeve in the foundation.
- The grease-treated edges, with a rubber seal installed, are joined together as far as they will go. The entrance of the end of the socket is carried out at 40-45 mm. It is undesirable to use silicone grease in this case to prevent the rubber from separating.
- The drainage system is laid on a level surface without shifting. If it is necessary to change the direction, use branches. A revision is installed at each branch line.
- If the site is flat, but its length is more than 20 meters, the installation of a well is also required.
- The sewerage system is conducted up to a cesspool, septic tank or well. At this point, the treatment plants are connected to obtain service water. It is convenient to use it for hydroponic installation or cleaning of the territory.
- Next, the entire system is checked for leaks and tightness of joints.
- Thermal insulation is laid on the assembled structure and covered with sand.
Drainage exit via the foundation Pipes are connected using the socket method. Assembling the construction using components made of different materials is not permitted. Considering that their coefficients of thermal conductivity differ. Variations in temperature have the potential to deform the system and cause leaks on the main line.
Peculiarities of internal wiring
The force of gravity serves as the foundation for the home sewerage system’s operation, which is one of its peculiarities. Under the influence of gravity, byproducts of vital activity flow through the channels by gravity. All lines must have a slope of between one and three quarters of an inch for the water consumer’s effluent to enter the riser. Therefore, if the line is 200 cm long, there should be a 2-3 cm height difference between the pipe’s exit and outlet in the common drain. An additional 1 cm is added for every turn. Waste will continuously clog the mains if these rules are not followed.
The next subtlety is choosing the appropriate cross-sectional size and main line arrangement.
Selecting plastic sewage pipes with the following diameter is required:
- riser, tee, outlet and corrugation from the toilet – at least 100 mm;
- mains from bathtub, washbasin and kitchen sink – 50 mm;
- drain from washing machines and dishwashers – 32 mm.
The toilet bowl should be the closest point to the riser because it produces the majority of waste. If it becomes necessary to reorient pipes during installation, it is preferable to use 45° bends to avoid clogging caused by steep turns.
See also: What kinds of country homes have for a sewage system?
Installing sewage from plastic pipes can be a doable do-it-yourself project for homeowners who want to upgrade the infrastructure of their houses. You don’t need to hire an expert to lay or fix sewerage pipes if you have the correct equipment, supplies, and instructions.
Appropriate planning is essential when installing sewage from plastic pipes. It’s crucial to plan out the layout of your sewerage system before starting any work, taking into account things like fixture placement, the gradient for appropriate drainage, and any obstructions in the path. You can minimize potential problems during the installation process by carefully planning the layout.
Paying close attention to detail is essential when installing the pipes. For efficient drainage, make sure the pipes are positioned correctly and cut to the appropriate length. This will maintain a constant gradient. In order to make secure joints and stop leaks, make sure you use the right fittings and connectors. An enduring and dependable sewerage system will be facilitated by carefully laying the pipes.
Securing the sewage pipes in their proper locations is a crucial step in the installation procedure. To secure the pipes to walls or floors, use the appropriate supports and brackets, making sure the pipes are securely held in place and shielded from harm. In addition to keeping the pipes from sagging or moving, proper pipe repair will preserve the structural integrity of the entire sewer system.
Safety must always come first during the installation process. When using tools and materials, put on the proper safety gear, such as gloves and eye protection. Additionally, exercise caution to prevent any potential hazards by, for example, using adhesives or solvents in well-ventilated areas. You can finish the installation with peace of mind if you put safety first.
In conclusion, homeowners with a basic understanding of plumbing and DIY abilities can install sewerage from plastic pipes themselves. Sewerage pipe installation and maintenance guidelines can help you build a dependable and effective system that enhances the general comfort and usefulness of your house.