Installation of copper pipes with their own hands 2 popular technologies

The selection of pipe material is essential for effective and long-lasting performance when it comes to insulation and heating in your home. Copper pipes are a standout choice due to their exceptional thermal conductivity, longevity, and dependability among the available options. Upgrading your heating system can be a do-it-yourself project for homeowners who install copper pipes. We’ll look at two common technologies in this post so you can install copper pipes yourself and be well-informed when it comes to the heating system in your house.

The soldering technique, sometimes referred to as brazing or sweating, comes first. Using a torch, solder, and flux, copper pipes are joined using this method. When implemented correctly, this tried-and-true method offers a secure and leak-free connection. Cleaning the pipe ends and applying flux—a chemical solution that eliminates oxidation and encourages solder adhesion—are the first steps in the process. After that, a torch is used to heat the pipes to the solder’s melting point. The solder is then applied to the joint and cooled to form a solid bond. Although soldering calls for some expertise and experience, it provides a reliable and high-end method of joining copper pipes.

The push-fit or compression fitting technique is another widely used technology for do-it-yourself copper pipe installation. Because it doesn’t require soldering or torches, this method is more accessible to inexperienced do-it-yourselfers. When the pipe is pushed into a push-fit fitting, a rubber O-ring or gasket seals the fitting to produce a watertight closure. Contrarily, compression fittings compress the pipe against a fitting to form a secure connection using a threaded nut and ring. These fittings are perfect for projects where flexibility and convenience are top priorities because they are simple to install and disassemble.

A successful copper pipe installation requires careful planning and attention to detail, regardless of whether you choose to solder or use push-fit/compression fittings. Make sure you have the required equipment and supplies on hand before starting any work, such as pipe cutters, deburring tools, flux, solder, fittings, and a torch (if soldering). To reduce waste and guarantee correct fit, carefully measure and plan your pipe layout. Additionally, to guarantee safety and compliance during the installation process, always adhere to local building codes and manufacturer guidelines.

Interesting facts

Finally, a few interesting facts regarding copper tubes.

During the summer, the HTW water supply system collects a lot of condensate because copper has the highest thermal conductivity. Thermal insulation or the use of a pipe with a polyethylene jacket solve the issue.

Copper encased in a protective layer.

Thermal insulation will lessen non-targeted heat loss on the surface of risers and heating leads as well as slow the plumbing system’s hot water cooling down.

Copper plumbing pipes are all seamless. A rolling mill, tube-hair mill, casting machine, and melting furnace are among the production equipment.

Copper is an extremely low electrical resistance conductor. You could find yourself in a very unpleasant situation if you discover that one of your neighbors grounded household appliances using a water pipe.

The experience is very clearly demonstrated by copper’s low electrical resistance, and it calls for a copper pipe and a magnet (ideally a neodymium magnet). Any heavy object thrown into the vertical tube will descend to the floor in perfect compliance with the laws of free fall. When a neodymium magnet is placed inside a copper pipe and rotated on its own axis, it will descend for approximately ten seconds.

Try this out using a copper ring conductor and a magnet.

The truth is that eddy currents are created in a circular conductor with low resistance when a magnetic field passes through it. They produce a secondary magnetic field in response. The magnetic levitation effect seen in this experiment is caused by the interaction between the magnet’s own field and the induced field in the copper conductor.

The magnet’s own field interacts with the induced field.

Capillary soldering method

Before beginning to lay water pipes, copper pipes must be cut to the proper size.

This technique relies on the capillary effect, which promotes a consistent solder distribution throughout the entire cross-section regardless of the pipe’s location. Special fittings are used, the diameters of which must deviate from the pipe diameters by a strictly defined value in order to produce a capillary effect. It is advised to leave a 0.1-0.15 mm gap when soldering near open flames.

Capillary soldering connections are made with special fluxes and solders, which are thin wires composed of metal alloys with low melting points, typically tin with trace amounts of copper and silver. When it is not possible to visually inspect the integrity of the joints, apply solder joints when the water supply is installed manually in the walls or floors.

Soldering can be done in two ways: at high and low temperatures.

When high temperatures are present during copper pipeline operation, high-temperature soldering, also referred to as hard soldering, is employed. Hard solders and specialized fluxes are used in this type of soldering. This kind of soldering is essentially never used when installing pipelines by hand.

For pipelines that carry liquid and gaseous media and have an operating temperature of no more than 110ºC, low-temperature, or soft soldering, is utilized. The joints are heated to approximately 300ºC using low-temperature soldering, which is done by hand.

Installation of copper pipes for water supply

Prior to beginning construction, you must sketch out the layout of the future sanitary construction and determine how many rolled pipes and connectors—such as press couplings, tees, bends, and adapters—will be needed.

Necessary tools and materials

In order to install rolled copper alloy pipes, you must get ready a set of tools that includes:

• metal hacksaw or pipe cutter;
• pliers;
• hand calibrator;
• wrenches or a gas torch (for heating the pipe section when joining parts by soldering);
• file.

Depending on the jointing technique selected, the pipe sections must be joined using the following materials:

• fittings;
• FUM – tape for sealing the joints of split fittings;
• solder and flux (in case of soldering products).

Precautions

Copper products must be soldered at high temperatures, so wearing protective gear and using a fire shield is required while working with them.

The parts that are going to be joined in the contact zone should have their rubber or plastic braids removed. To prevent the sealing rings from melting, the valve must be unscrewed at the taps before being installed. All shut-off valves in an existing pipe system should be opened when brazing copper products to prevent the pressure inside the pipes from rising above allowable limits because of partial heating.

Work progress

The following order is followed when jointing pipe sections with fittings:

• cut pipe sections of the required size;
• If the water supply system is made of copper pipes with PVC insulation, this layer should be removed at the ends of the pipes;
• clean the cut line from burrs with a file;
• remove the chamfer;
• put on the prepared part alternately the union nut and the crimp ring;
• Connect the fitting with the nut and tighten the thread first by hand and then with a wrench;
• In places where the installation of the transition fitting from copper pipe to steel pipe, the tightness of the joints provide the use of FUM – tape.

When joining pipes by soldering with your own hands, you need to observe the precautions described above, and have certain skills. The preparation process and soldering itself includes the following actions: . cutting the necessary pipe sections with a pipe cutter or metal hacksaw;
removal of the thermal insulation layer (if any) and burrs on their ends;
removal of the oxide film in the brazing area with fine abrasive sandpaper;
sanding of the fitting;
flux lubrication of the outer surface of the parts;
inserting the end of the pipe into the fitting so that a gap of no more than 0.4 mm remains between the parts;
heating the contact area of the elements of the gas burner (on the photo below);

• Cutting the necessary pipe sections with a pipe cutter or metal hacksaw;
• removal of the thermal insulation layer (if any) and burrs on their ends;
• removing the oxide film in the soldering area with fine abrasive sandpaper;
• sanding of the fitting;
• fluxing of the external surface of the parts;
• inserting the pipe end into the fitting so that there is a gap of no more than 0.4 mm between the parts;
• heating of the contact zone of the elements with a gas burner (on the photo below);

• inserting solder into the gap between the fitting and the end of the copper pipe;
• soldering the seam;
• flushing the system from flux particles.

The following video shows the brazing procedure for copper rolled copper pipe:

Testing of pipelines

It is important to test the system right away after installation in order to get rid of any flux residues on the joint’s inner surface. It is necessary to perform a technological flush of the system to get rid of any flux residues that might have gotten inside.

If the test is delayed due to time constraints, technological flushing takes place right away following system assembly. Flushing solutions containing up to 200 mg/l of free chlorine can be used without any problems. Such flushing should be done no later than two to three months following the completion of installation when utilizing contemporary water-soluble fluxes.

Water supply systems must be flushed with water after installation is complete in order to remove mechanical suspended solids for the duration of time indicated in the technical documentation. When the water exits the system and meets hygienic standards, the flushing of the drinking water supply system is deemed finished.

The relevant normative documents provide the modes and sequence of hydrostatic (hydraulic) or gauge (pneumatic) tests of pipelines. Hydraulic testing is required for internal sanitary systems with copper pipes when the surrounding temperature is positive.

Internal sanitary engineering systems are accepted into operation in compliance with the relevant regulations. Simultaneously, a preliminary visual inspection should be conducted to verify that all installed pipelines and their individual components comply with the requirements of this document, the project, and the current regulatory and technical documentation.

Before grouting, pipelines embedded in building structures should undergo hydraulic testing. After installation, water supply systems need to be flushed with water until they run clear of mechanical suspended solids for the duration of the technical documentation. When the water level in drinking water supply systems satisfies hygienic standards, the flushing process is deemed to be complete.

Following installation, the heating system should undergo a visual inspection and a tightness test at a pressure that is higher than the working pressure 1.5 times, but not lower than 0.6 MPa at a steady water temperature. Before the hydraulic tests, the following must be done as part of the preparatory work:

• Disconnect safety valves, control valves, sensors and other, if the permissible pressure of the specified fittings
• less than the test pressure;
• disconnected elements should be replaced with plugs or shut-off valves, the permissible pressure for which is higher than the test pressure;
• Connect a pressure gauge with a measuring accuracy of 0.1 MPa to the system.

To avoid air locks, the system should be gradually filled with water while the bleeders are left open. Two stages of hydraulic testing should be performed at a steady temperature: Step 1: Raise the pressure twice in thirty minutes to the computed value every ten minutes. Second stage: within the next two hours, the pressure drop in the system (from the pressure reached at the first stage) should not surpass 0.2 MPa. The system’s pressure drop should not exceed 0.6 MPa during the next thirty minutes. As per SNiP 3.01.04, the tested piping system must be put into service.

How to make water supply wiring with your own hands

Certain aspects of system installation, like channel organization in the screed and drilling, are also non-building in nature. The latter must be positioned between the furniture and the wall at a distance of no less than 200 mm. All plumbing fixtures must be taken out prior to making the distribution, or prior to beginning the pipe laying.

Installation of the arcs, which are plastic strips with MRV angles for faucets, should come first. Self-tapping screws are used to fasten them to the capital wall’s dowels. The thickness of any finish, such as plaster, tiles, or other decoration, must be considered when fastening. Without enough construction experience, it can be challenging to make sure the outlet spigots are flush with the wall.

The most effective option is to have them slightly protrude above the finish half the width of the mixer’s decorative cap edge. If the caps are not adjustable, this can be accomplished manually with an emery board or an emery wheel.

Assembling the pipeline sections is the next step. The easiest way to do this is to lay everything out on the table and then place it in the grooves. However, passing the pipes through the walls presents a challenge. If the structure is made of soldered pipes, there are two ways to lay the pipes through the walls. In the case of metal-plastic pipes, the issue shouldn’t occur because the entire structure is on split fittings:

1. By means of MRN/MRV adapters and metal-plastic inserts. For apartments, this is a fairly reliable option. Special removable hatches can be made in the corners above the grooves, which will serve for repair and revision of threaded connections.
2. Local installation of the pipeline. Here to the rescue will come to the rescue compact soldering iron. This method is somewhat more expensive, and the work should be performed with cotton gloves to prevent accidental burns.

The cutting of pipes comes next. Sawing is strictly forbidden because it can negatively impact the dependability of connections, particularly if the pipes are composed of metal and plastic. A pipe cutter should be used for cutting, and keep in mind that this instrument is entirely different for plastic and metal-plastic pipes.

The soldering step is the fourth. A single soldering process requires 15 mm of pipe. That is, 1030 mm must be cut if the distance between the two fittings is precisely 1 m; if it is between 0.6-2 630 mm and t.д.

The bending of metal-plastic pipes is the fifth point. Five times the pipe’s outside diameter should be the minimum allowable bending radius. Some "experts" suggest inserting a spring or filling it with sand so that it can bend at an angle. The spring can be removed and the sand can be removed using a wire hook.

Never disregard these recommendations; if you do, the pipe’s coating will deteriorate, leaving residual stresses far higher than permitted, and the metal-plastic pipe will start to take on the appearance of a very low-quality, rusted steel pipe.

The direct installation of the apartment’s water pipeline is now complete. There is a precise order in which the piping is changed. Work done "by eye" and "on the fly" without proper training frequently results in leaks:

1. After the water is shut off, the old riser is dismantled and a shut-off valve is installed in its place. This is done in order to open the water to the neighbors and continue the installation of your own plumbing.
2. To improve water quality it is recommended to install a special filter.
3. Next, a water meter is installed. Installation should be done very carefully so that the manufacturer"s seal is not accidentally torn off. If the seal is broken, the water meter will be considered invalid.
4. Next is the performance of work on the installation of the water manifold and ball valves at the outlets.
5. The final stage is the connection of plumbing fixtures and check the system operation.

You are now capable of creating your own plumbing. While not very difficult, it is important to note that this work must be done precisely and with care.

In the world of home heating and insulation, installing copper pipes yourself is a task that many DIY enthusiasts take on. With two popular technologies to choose from, it"s essential to understand the basics. The first method involves soldering, where joints are heated and solder is melted to create a tight seal. It"s a traditional approach but requires careful handling of the torch and soldering materials. The second method is compression fitting, which doesn"t require any heat. Instead, fittings are tightened onto the pipes, creating a secure connection. While easier for beginners, it"s crucial to ensure proper sizing and alignment. Both techniques have their pros and cons, but with the right tools and know-how, DIY installation of copper pipes can be a rewarding project for any homeowner looking to improve their home"s heating system.

Temperature compensation

Parts of the pipeline can be constructively moved about to compensate for copper’s thermal expansion without compromising the system’s integrity. To achieve this, loops, bellows, and U- and L-shaped expansion joints are occasionally installed, along with some movable fasteners.

PIPELINE LENGTH (M)	Changing the pipe length (mm)
Temperature difference (°C)
10	20	30	40	50	60	70	80	90
1	0,2	0,3	0,5	0,7	0,8	1,0	1,2	1,3	1,5
5	0,8	1,7	2,5	3,3	4,2	5,0	5,9	6,7	7,6
10	1,7	3,4	5,0	6,7	8,4	10,1	11,8	13,4	15,1
15	2,5	5,0	7,6	10,1	12,6	15,1	17,6	20,2	22,7
20	3,4	6,7	10,1	13,4	16,8	20,2	23,5	26,8	30,2
25	4,2	8,4	12,6	16,8	21,0	25,2	29,4	33,6	37,8
30	5,0	10,1	15,1	20,2	25,2	30,2	35,3	40,3	45,4
40	6,7	13,4	20,2	26,9	33,6	40,3	47,0	53,8	60,5
50	8,4	16,8	25,2	33,6	42,0	50,4	58,8	67,2	75,6

Moveable fasteners can be used in the water supply system to provide temperature compensation for brief periods of time. Installing specialized compensators is required in heating systems to compensate for longitudinal temperature deformations (elongations and shortenings) of pipeline straight sections.

To achieve this, straight sections of the pipeline must have U- and L-shaped compensators, loops, and other compensators. Fixed and movable fasteners, the spacing between which is calculated, must also be arranged correctly. Fixed supports can be made out of pipe holders that are fastened to building structures.

L-shaped compensator calculation

Outer diameter in mm	Pipe elongation
5mm	10mm	15mm	20mm
Minimum length A (mm )
12	475	670	820	950
15	530	750	910	1060
18	580	820	1000	1160
22	640	910	1110	1280
28	725	1025	1250	1450
35	810	1145	1400	1620
42	890	1250	1540	1780
54	1010	1420	1740	2010

U-shaped expansion joint computation

Outer diameter in mm	Pipe elongation
12	25	38	50
Dimension of the U-shaped compensator R ( mm )
12	195	281	347	398
15	218	315	387	445
18	240	350	430	495
22	263	382	468	540
28	299	431	522	609
35	333	479	593	681
42	366	528	647	744
54	414	599	736	845

Soldering assembly of copper piping

Soldering pipes together yields the tightest joints possible. Strict adherence to the suggested safety guidelines is required when doing the task.

Tools

The pipeline must be assembled by brazing, which requires the following supplies and equipment:

• copper pipes, the number and diameter of which is determined according to the diagram;
• pipe cutter (in the absence of a device, an ordinary metal hacksaw can be used);
• pipe bender;
• metal brush for preparing the pipe for brazing;
• Sandpaper (used in addition to a brush);
• pipe expander – a special device for increasing the diameter of one of the pipes to be joined;
• gas burner;
• chamfer remover (deburring device for pipe cutting);
• A flux compound that allows for additional pipe cleaning and promotes more even solder distribution;

Types of fluxes for soldering

• solder – metal alloy, which is used to fill the space between the pipes during the soldering process.

Varieties of solder for various types of soldering

Depending on whether high-temperature or low-temperature soldering is being done, flux and solder should be chosen with as much compatibility as possible.

Soldering process

How can copper pipes be joined using the soldering method? To achieve a robust connection, it is advised to adhere to the subsequent scheme:

1. Cutting the pipe. The length of each section of the pipeline should correspond to the scheme, which indicates the copper piping of the residential premises;

Using a pipe cutter to cut pipes

1. the pipe ends are chamfered. Then the areas to be soldered are scraped until the surface is as flat as possible and cleaned of oxides and other contaminants with a metal brush;

Getting the pipe surface ready for soldering

1. to achieve maximum tightness of the joint, the end of one pipe should be extended by 2 mm – 3 mm;

Expanding the pipe’s diameter

1. the place of future soldering is treated with flux. Since the chemical composition can adversely affect the skin of hands, the work is done in protective gloves. Flux in the form of a paste is most conveniently applied with a small brush;

Applying flux to the pipeline segment

1. The torch is heated to the required working temperature;
2. the flux is slightly melted;
3. the pipes are joined;
4. excess flux is removed with a dry soft cloth;
5. soldering is performed. On the heated section is smoothly applied solder, which, when heated, melts and fills all the free space;

Filling during the soldering process with solder

1. The joint is left stationary for 3 – 5 minutes (until it cools down completely);
2. the next pipe section is connected in the same way.

Pipe soldering is done at a high temperature. Furthermore, it is not unusual for dangerous materials to be released while working. As a result, soldering pipeline assembly should be done in a space with adequate ventilation and far from anything that could catch fire.

The video goes into great detail about potential copper pipe installation techniques.

Copper pipes are installed in accordance with the previously created scheme following preliminary assembly. Pipeline security can be achieved with clamps, brackets, or other devices. Pipes can also be installed in walls.

← Tips for selecting copper pipes

Pipe laying

The best way to lay copper pipes is to hide them in shafts, furrows, and channels. Access to split connections and fittings should also be made possible by doors and detachable shields, neither of which should have any sharp edges. The locations of collapsible joints and fittings for concealed pipelines should have manholes or detachable shields without any sharp edges. The risers should be positioned in grooves, channels, or niches behind ornamental panels. Sealing them in walls and partitions is an exception.

It is possible to install supply lines and horizontal pipelines for heating equipment behind skirting boards and in floor slabs. Copper pipe laying is permitted outdoors in locations that guard against mechanical damage. It is possible to cover open spaces with ornamental elements. Pipelines made of copper are limited to grouting them within a casing, such as corrugated polyethylene pipes. It is not permitted to use PVC pipes with corrugations.

Prior to caulking the pipelines, an executive scheme for this section’s installation and hydraulic testing must be completed. Pipelines should be hydrotested before grooves or ducts are sealed. There must be cases available for passing through building structures, such as those made of polyethylene pipes.

The case’s inner diameter ought to be five to ten millimeters bigger than the laid pipe’s outer diameter. A pliable, waterproof sealant that permits the pipe to slide along its longitudinal axis should be used to close the opening between it and the casing. There should be at least 20 mm of space between the copper pipe running along the building structure and the structure itself. The cold water supply systems’ pipelines should be placed at least 50 mm above the heating and hot water supply copper pipelines.

Control, shut-off, and distribution manifolds should all have independent fixed fasteners installed. It is advised to use products found in manufacturing plant catalogs to fix copper pipes. When used appropriately, fasteners—such as those used for polymer pipes—can be used.

It is important to consider the temperature change of the pipe length when calculating the minimum distance between the axes of bends and tees and the fixtures. The fasteners and the connecting components should be spaced apart by at least 50 mm.

Manufacture

Seamless copper products are used in the construction of water supply and heating pipelines. Three technologies are used in their production:

• Cold rolling – deformation of a metal billet occurs as it passes between rotating rolls. A through hole is created by piercing. The sleeve is then calibrated to the required dimensions;
• cold drawing – based on pulling the billet through a drawing tool (drag) with a special channel that tapers along its length. In the process of drawing, the metal is crimped to the required geometric parameters and drawn to length;
• hot pressing – obtaining a pipe by extrusion (squeezing) through the outlet hole of the die.

One of these technologies, or a combination of them, may be applied in industrial production. The following steps are always part of the basic manufacturing process, although the equipment composition and process operations may vary:

• preparation of the billet;
• cold rolling or drawing, or hot pressing;
• heat treatment;
• pipe and tool lubrication;
• processing of finished and intermediate products;
• cutting into measured pieces or coiling;
• quality control of the finished product.

Article summary.

Jointing by soldering

Although this method of installing copper pipelines is far more complex than the previous one, its higher reliability has led to its increased use. It calls for adherence to safety regulations and the possession of specific skills.

You need specialized equipment to braze copper pipes.

For copper pipe brazing, you’ll need:

• Pipe cutter or metal hacksaw. Be aware that cutting thin-walled, small diameter pipes with a pipe cutter will give you an even edge and avoid deformation of the product;
• manual calibrator;
• soldering station (burner for copper, hoses, cylinders);
• plumber"s wrench, as well as a set of wrenches;
• pliers, sandpaper or felt, and a file (used to remove burrs).

Copper pipes, the required fittings (specific "soldered" fittings are used), and a variety of bends, tees, couplings, and angles required for installation based on your project are also required. When soldering copper, don’t forget to restock on flux and solder.

Using premium flux and carefully chosen solder will make the work easier to complete.

Depending on the type of soldering, there are various types of solder. Generally, low-temperature soldering is utilized when installing water pipes. This kind of connection can withstand boiling water temperatures with ease and is executed at temperatures as high as 250 degrees Celsius. In this instance, regular tin-lead solder will work just fine.

Use solders that melt at 650 degrees Celsius or higher when applying high-temperature soldering to structures with more responsible purposes. Copper-phosphorus is most frequently used; copper-silver is less frequently. The latter is employed in the most urgent situations and is far more costly.

The following order is used when soldering copper joints:

• cut the pipe to the required length;
• chamfer with a chamfer remover, file to remove burrs;
• Grinding sandpaper or felt to clean the soldering place, additionally treat the used fitting;
• wipe the pipe edge with a clean, dry rag to remove any dust left after sanding;
• Apply flux to the surface prepared for soldering;
• a fitting is installed on the pipe. Its diameter is selected so that the gap in the connection is no more than 0.4mm;
• further fix the pipe and fitting so as to ensure their immobility during the brazing work;
• ignite a gas torch and moving it along the seam, achieve uniform heating of the entire section. When the joint is sufficiently heated, the solder should melt when it touches the metal;
• gradually draw the solder along the entire seam line, heating the soldering area with a torch at all times;
• If the pipe and fitting are heated correctly, the solder will flow into the gap between them under the action of capillary tension forces (not for nothing this type of soldering is called "capillary");
• the correct seam has an even shiny surface, it should not be rough, with the presence of heterogeneously filled areas.

Soldering copper water pipes(video)

Avoid overheating the pipe as this will cause it to anneal more quickly, which will definitely impact subsequent operations.

In addition to lowering the quantity of joints, a pipe bender will enhance the system’s overall aesthetic.

It is possible to bend heated copper pipes during installation; this will enhance the mounted plumbing system’s appearance and minimize the number of solder joints. You will need a set of unique springs that are installed on the bend in order to perform this kind of work. They keep the pipe from flattening and maintain its size and shape. Copper pipes do not need to be heated in order to be bent when using a specialized pipe bender. Even bends at a variety of angles can be achieved with this tool.

There is a long history of installing copper pressure pipelines for hot or cold water supplies. These plumbing systems have more benefits than just dependability, usability, and durability. The system, which is made of copper pipes of various sizes, is a decoration in and of itself for any home. Its elegant appearance betrays the owners’ high standards for aesthetics.

Advantages and disadvantages

First things first, let’s talk about the drawbacks of copper plumbing.

1. High cost. Compared to similar materials, copper will cost a lot more.
2. Complicated installation process. Pipes are connected using special fittings with crimp rings, as in the case of metal-plastic products, however, a little more effort is required. If the pipes are connected by poyka, it is necessary to prepare the necessary equipment, materials, as well as to have certain experience, skills and knowledge.
3. Electrical conductivity. Copper pipes can be dangerous, as the washing machine can break, or the grounding is incorrectly performed, resulting in the danger of getting a discharge of current. To avoid this, electrical appliances should never be grounded to the water system.
4. In the places of connection with steel or aluminum, a so-called galvanic pair is formed (see "Electroconductivity of copper water pipes"). ) . As a result, a small current can flow through the plumbing, leading to unpleasant consequences.

However, not everything is negative because copper has a lot of benefits.

1. Copper pipes never rust.
2. Due to the plastic properties of the material, the water pipe can be fixed at a certain angle, and if necessary, bend it slightly.
3. Pipes made of copper do not crack, are not subject to deformation, are resistant to negative natural effects.
4. Copper plumbing can be used at a temperature of -100-+250 degrees, which is an undeniable advantage compared to other materials.

As a result, it is essential to weigh all the benefits and drawbacks of the copper product when making a decision. You can compare copper water pipes and polypropylene water pipes to reach a final decision.

Items composed of these materials are not prone to rust. Polypropylene is not as flexible as copper, but with the aid of connection fittings, the water pipe can be removed at any angle. This process doesn’t take a long time. Furthermore, the fitting makes it possible to bend it precisely, something that is not possible with copper because it deforms only when subjected to a strong force.

Any material will begin to form ice at -100 degrees, which will cause the product to simply disintegrate. However, temperatures up to +400 degrees can occur in the water system, which copper pipes cannot withstand. As a result, areas with below-freezing temperatures should install such a water supply; in other situations, it is preferable to use alternative alternatives. Naturally, each individual has to make his own decisions.

Disadvantages of copper communications

One of the inherent drawbacks of copper pipe is its tendency to restrict the flow rate of water in water systems or coolant in heating systems. Furthermore, we are aware from physics that the connection has a galvanic dependence, meaning that the galvanic effect is cancelled out. е. adapters that counteract the galvanic effect must be used when making transition connections.

Stainless steel, brass, or bronze special fitting connectors work well for the job. By the way, when installing systems, water pipes made of steel, aluminum, or galvanized pipes shouldn’t be placed along the stream’s path after the copper pipes are in place.

Choosing between plastic and copper pipes

Copper pipes are not new products; they have been effectively utilized for many years. But compared to similar products that have just recently surfaced and are the outcome of the development of cutting-edge technologies, their qualities are superior in many ways. Particularly related to these products are plastic and metal pipes, which are considerably less effective than copper-based products in a variety of ways.

• Copper pipes do not pass bad smelling and harmful substances, including gases.
• Pipes made of copper are not destroyed by chlorine contained in every water supply system. Such quality cannot be boasted by modern plastic pipes, supplied mainly from European countries, where the water contains a small amount of chlorine. Moreover, chlorine contributes to a significant increase in the service life of copper pipes, as it creates a thin and durable film – patina – on their inner surface.

UV light does not affect the performance, technical features, or dependability of copper products. Copper pipes’ inner surfaces are smoother than those of plastic products to a lesser extent. Copper pipes with a smaller diameter can be used in the water supply system with the same specifications as comparable plastic products. Water supply copper pipes have a much longer service life because they can withstand longer thermal loads. The joints (fittings, soldering, etc.) created during the installation process are the most dependable areas for copper water pipes, as opposed to plastic and metal-plastic pipes.

Installing a copper water pipe beneath the floor of a house that is still being built

• Choosing copper pipes from different manufacturers, it is almost impossible to encounter low-quality or counterfeit products, which is not the case with similar products made of plastic.
• Copper (and, consequently, pipes made of it) is characterized by antibacterial properties. Even with a long service life, copper pipes are not covered with biofilm, which overgrows plastic water pipes.
• The service life of water pipelines, which are made using copper pipes and fittings, is comparable to the period of operation of the building in which they are mounted.

Pipe laying

The appropriate indentations are made and gaps are broken through prior to soldering and wiring systems. After construction is finished and fixing elements are installed, or after finishing and finishing works in the case of open laying, copper pipes are laid in the room. It is also advisable to install pipes following the completion of the metal structure assembly. It is best to lay pipes loosely.

Plugs must be used to seal the loose ends of the pipes to keep dirt and debris out. During installation, it is not permitted to flatten and fracture the pipelines. If the pipe is buckled, use a wooden or rubber mallet to straighten it and shape it into a cylindrical shape. In a given section, this operation may only be performed once.

Hot and cold water copper pipelines must be spaced apart by at least 50 mm, accounting for insulation thickness. There must be at least 30 mm of space between pipelines when crossing them. Pipes for heating and hot water should be installed above pipelines for cold water. Installing thermal insulation on water supply and heating pipelines should follow the project design to the letter.

Connection to the central water supply

First of all, you require authorization from the company that provides the water supply in order to connect to the central water supply. As a result, you will need to submit an application, to which technical specifications will be provided as an answer. The points of connection, the actual depth of the water pipe, and the water pressure inside the water line all need to be specified.

Second, the connection itself needs to be made properly. To achieve this, a well must be built at the connection point indicated in the TU and an excavation must be made. In addition, the future well’s depth ought to be lower than the penetration level of the central water pipe. Additionally, the well’s width allows for the fitting of a person performing installation work inside.

Severing the central water supply network

Thirdly, the water pipe needs to have a hole made in it. As a result, the water supply must be cut off from that portion of the water pipe. Typically, the water supply company constructs specialized wells for this use, where gate valves are installed. They will need to be shut down. Two gate valves can be found, one on each side of the connecting point.

If the central water supply pipe is made of cast iron, a spigot with a thread on the free end must be welded to a special plastic clamp that must be installed after a hole is drilled in it. It has a gate valve or valve screwed onto it. It is possible to install a flanged connection in place of a threaded connection. In this instance, rubber or paranite gaskets will be used to connect the shut-off valves to the pipeline via flanges. It is imperative to place a rubber gasket underneath the clamp to guarantee the joint’s tightness.

In the event that the central water pipe is made of steel, the pipeline must first be emptied of water after a hole is drilled. The socket with thread or flange is then welded to the main pipe after that. Then a gate or valve is installed, just like in the first instance. It is feasible to install a clamp instead of using welding, though.

Water supply meter for the home

Installing the water meter

And now for a crucial point. It has to do with installing a water meter. There are, in theory, no hard and fast rules regarding where it must be installed. The most crucial requirement is that it be a room with free passage and insulation. For this reason, a lot of individual homeowners install these gadgets in their basements. These days, the water supply companies mandate that water meters be placed in the exact wells where the connection was established. This is because using this method, the issue of an unauthorized connection is resolved without using the water meter.

Thus, the installation of pipes from the well to the building’s foundation represents the next step in wiring a private home’s central water supply. This is not a difficult situation.

• A trench is dug to a depth of 0.5 m. It is better if it is straight or with minimal branches or turns. If the pipeline will pass under the road, it is better to deepen the trench and fill it with sand, and lay the pipe in a pipe of a larger diameter.
• Pipes are laid.
• They"re insulated.
• Connected to the meter spigot on one side.
• The pipe is routed through the hole in the foundation.
• Connection of the external contour of the water pipe with the internal distribution is performed.

The water pipe node that enters the house via the foundation

That completes the water entry from the central water supply system into the house. All that’s left to do is make sure the meter is operating properly and inspect the route for leaks. As a result, the well’s gate or shut-off valve is opened. It is important to open with caution and without hurry. The water meter’s operation will be visible once one of the consumers is opened.

Take note! It should be mentioned that clean water is guaranteed when the home water supply is connected to the central water supply and complies with SanPiN. However, even in these networks, a coarse filter is put in place before the water meter in order to increase the meter’s lifespan.

Characteristics of copper pipes for water supply systems

The primary benefit, which makes copper pipes for water pipes particularly valued, is their extraordinary dependability. When comparing these products to comparable steel ones, we find that the latter have the same dimensions (12 mm in diameter and 1 mm in wall thickness) and are made to withstand pressures of up to 100 bar at a coolant operating temperature of 250 degrees Celsius. Conversely, copper pipes can function properly at temperatures as high as 600 degrees Celsius and pressures as high as 500 bar. Furthermore, copper, in contrast to many other materials, not only retains its strength and flexibility in colder temperatures, but actually gets stronger.

This feature allows copper pipes to withstand up to three cycles of freezing and thawing without experiencing discomfort and without losing their functional properties. In contrast to a steel water supply system, where a breakthrough starts to spread along the entire length of the pipes, a breakthrough in a copper water pipe is localized in a minimal area. Because of this feature, copper water pipelines require less maintenance than steel water supply systems that have failed. It is far less expensive to eliminate the effects of accidents on them rather than to replace the pipes almost entirely.

Copper pipe plumbing

The ease of installation and processing that copper pipes offer is another characteristic that sets them apart. They bend precisely and join fittings and one another with success. To operate with these pipes, all you need to do is watch the related video and keep a standard assortment of hand or power tools in your toolbox.

The extraordinary versatility of copper pipes and every other component used in the installation of water supply systems is what makes them so special. With the aid of similar tools and equipment, pipes made in compliance with one standard can be readily utilized for the installation of communications for various uses.

Capillary brazing is the most widely used method of joining copper pipes and is known for its high reliability. The width of the solder, which cannot be less than 7 mm and is typical even for the installation of small diameter products, is a minor drawback of this method, which even when welded, yields connections that are superior in strength and reliability. A special expander (manual or mechanical) can be used to achieve a better connection when soldering copper pipes. One pipe’s end is made into a socket, which the second connecting element’s end is inserted into with the aid of an expander.

Copper pipe soldering while the installation is being done

When capillary brazing is contrasted with welding steel and plastic pipes, the benefits of this technique become even clearer. In the first instance, welding steel necessitates large equipment and a very careful and thorough connection.

Copper pipes can be quickly installed with special fittings if high reliability is not needed for the connection. It should be noted that copper water pipes can only be connected by combined fittings; thread cutting is not permitted on them. These connections can be made quickly and reliably, allowing for the creation of water supply systems that are impenetrable.

Copper pipes can be embedded in walls as long as they are placed inside a special box or larger diameter shell (such as corrugated or regular plastic pipe). This will ensure that the material they are embedded in won’t be destroyed when the pipes expand with temperature. Copper pipes, which are visually beautiful in both their painted and unpainted states, should be installed in an open installation in a way that reduces the possibility of unintentional damage. By the way, pictures or videos can still capture the remarkable beauty of copper water pipes.

The aesthetic appeal of copper plumbing fixtures

Operation and repair

If a pipeline section becomes damaged, the damaged section must be cut out and replaced. A copper pipe of the necessary length is used in replacement, and it is soldered to the pipeline. Smaller diameter pipes cannot be installed when replacing the pipe during repairs.

Connections should be swapped out as soon as possible for those specified by the project if compression fittings and other fittings are utilized without a specific reason. Gaskets can be changed or nuts can be turned to stop leaks in split joints.

Pipes cannot be mechanically damaged while undergoing other repairs. Fences ought to be erected in vulnerable areas. Use a cleaning agent that shields the pipe walls from mechanical harm when cleaning the exterior of the pipe.

It is important to keep in mind that copper pipes and joints have a maximum capacity of three cycles for "M" pipes, two cycles for "PT" pipes, and one cycle for "T" pipes when freezing water in water supply and heating systems. It is not appropriate to let internal hygienic systems freeze.

Localized pipe expansion during freezing conditions indicates the presence of blockages in the pipes. Either hot water or warm air should be used to heat the pipe. Using an open flame and hammering the pipe are strictly prohibited. Using induction electric heaters is permitted. Direct exposure of pipes to open flames is not permitted when using gas heating.

The pipeline’s damaged section needs to be replaced as soon as possible. Sealant needs to be applied if there is a loosening of the seal between the pipe and the sleeve that goes through the building structure.

A prolonged stagnation of water in the copper pipes should be avoided in the event that the plumbing systems are interrupted. A copper pipe water supply system needs to be flushed with drinkable water until it meets sanitary norms for water quality before it can be operated again.

• 1 Preparing for installation
• 2 Pipe cutting
• 3 Pipe Laying
• 4 Bending
• 5 Connecting the pipes
• 6 Prohibited
• 7 Laying the pipe
• 8 Fixing of pipelines
• 9 Temperature compensation
• 10 Corrosion of copper pipes during installation
• 11 Testing of pipelines
• 12 Operation and repair
• 13 Heating water supply boiler room:

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Corrosion of copper pipes during installation

Even though copper pipes have a high corrosion resistance, dangerous so-called ulcerative corrosion can occur due to subpar manufacturing processes, soldering mistakes, and high levels of abrasive impurity contamination in tap water. This happens when the inner surface of the pipes’ oxide protective film is destroyed. Such films are unlikely to form in cold and hot water copper pipes and harm already-existing ones due to a variety of factors.

It is, first and foremost, the use of pipes for general technical purposes that are not meant for solder joints and plumbing. Usage of subpar pipes from unreliable manufacturers (it is preferable to purchase copper pipes from reputable international manufacturers to avoid such issues).

Flux leakage onto the inside surface of the pipes during brazing is one of the possible additional causes. It is necessary to perform technological flushing of the assembled pipeline in order to stop this.

Particles of hard abrasive material, mostly sand, that have entered the pipeline during installation or use. In order to prevent particle contamination, filters for mechanical impurity removal from water must be installed at the system’s inlet. Additionally, pipe openings may need to be sealed during transportation and installation.

Copper pipe installation is not permitted in battery charging rooms or any other area where currents could be generated. as well as close to strong high-frequency radiation sources. It is not recommended to use copper piping systems as the primary earthing electrode.

Additionally, installing pipes in locations such as animal farms or slaughterhouses that have media containing ammonium, nitrites, or sulfides is prohibited. With the exception of the use of mixtures containing ammonium, corrosion protection is not necessary for installation concealed beneath gypsum plaster or lime mortar.

Applying two additional layers of protection is required when using copper pipes in harsh environments, such as underground ones: polymer coating applied in the factory to prevent corrosion, and adhesive or heat-shrink polymer coating applied on site to protect joints from corrosive environments.

It is advised to keep the pipeline’s exterior dry and free from moisture exposure. Use of insulation for pipes in high-humidity areas, such as saunas, swimming pools, and baths, is required. It is not ideal for condensation to build up on the pipe’s surface in any setting.

Drinking water needs to be compliant with SanPiN 2.1.4.1074. The pH range of 7.5 to 8.5 is associated with higher reliability and durability. Furthermore, there shouldn’t be too much free carbon dioxide in the water.

DRINKING WATER PARAMETERS
Indicator	Unit	Minimal	Maximum
measurements	permissible	permissible
Hydrogen index	pH	6.0 (recommended 7.5)	9.0 (recommended 8.5)
Chlorides	mg/l	–	350
Total hardness	mg-eq/l	1,42	3,1
HCO3/SO4 ratio	mg/l	1	–
Sulfates	mg/l	–	300
Nitrates	mg/l	–	45
Free carbon dioxide	mg/l	–	35
Oxygen	mg/l	–	Not controlled
Nashatyri	mg/l	–	2
Iron (in solution)	mg/l	–	0,3
Manganese (in solution)	mg/l	–	0,1
Sulfides	–	–	Undesirable
Free Chlorine	mg/l	–	No limitation

In water supply systems, pipelines made of steel (apart from stainless steel), aluminum, or zinc should be avoided in the direction of water flow after pipelines made of copper in order to prevent premature corrosion of the former. Provide passive anodes in such products, such as those made of magnesium, if the installation of such metal products is required following a section with copper pipes.

With heating systems, the following guidelines ought to be followed: Make sure the coolant has less than 0.1 mg/l of oxygen to prevent needless (unjustified) refilling of closed circuits with oxygen-containing coolant. It is advised to use sodium sulfide or hydrazine when gradually adding oxygen to the coolant.

Copper-steel, copper-iron, and copper-zinc pairs in heating systems are only problematic when oxygen is added to the coolant. It should be possible to use bronze or stainless steel adapters to divide these pairs.

It is recommended to use copper heating devices, including bimetallic aluminum-copper ones, in heating systems with copper pipes. Copper-brass, copper-bronze, and copper-plastic connections in hot and cold water supply systems are safe from a corrosion standpoint.

Mounting

Soldering and assembly on crimp fittings are the two most widely used techniques for installing copper pipelines, as I’ve already indicated. It’s challenging to determine which approach is superior because each has pros and cons of its own.

Technology 1: soldering

Solder joints require no maintenance and cannot be separated. Practically speaking, this implies that:

• The fitting connection can be safely installed in a groove or screed without fear of leaks;

Plumbing made of brazed copper can be installed through a penetration hole.

• If you need to change the configuration of the water supply (for example, connecting a new washbasin or washing machine), you will not be able to do it by simply changing the fitting (say, a socket to a tee). You will have to arm yourself with a torch or a hair dryer again.

Using an open flame or a construction hair dryer with an air temperature of between 550 and 600 degrees Celsius at the outlet is related to soldering. Therefore, installing copper in a room that has a clean repair made of combustible materials is not safe.

Soldering copper fittings have sockets that allow the pipe’s smooth end to enter with a minimum (roughly 0.1 to 0.15 mm) gap. Pipeline segments that are straight can be assembled without fittings. In this instance, sockets are formed using a specialized tool called a copper pipe borer. The plastic metal is stretched to the desired size by its colllets spreading apart.

Expander for copper pipes that is mechanical.

In reality, soldering is done in this way:

1. The burrs left from cutting to size are removed from the end face. For this purpose, you can use a sharp knife or a special tool – grate remover;
2. The inner surface of the socket and the outer surface of the pipe are cleaned with fine sandpaper or a thin metal brush;
3. Flux is applied to both surfaces, which will ensure maximum adhesion of solder;
4. The rastrub is heated to the melting temperature of solder (300 – 500 degrees depending on its type);
5. The solder rod is then inserted into the heating zone and touched to the socket. Melting solder quickly fills the gap between the socket and the pipe due to the capillary effect.

Using a gas torch for brazing.

Technology 2: fittings

The copper fitting bears a strong resemblance to the metal-plastic connector element used in the device. The crimp ring is solid and uncut, and the fitting lacks a socket, which is the only distinction. For annealed pipes, a support sleeve is used in place of a socket because they are sufficiently rigid to not crumple during crimping.

Brass is the most common material for fittings.

Notably, this metal does not form a galvanic pair with copper and is only marginally less plastic than the latter.

Copper fitting made of brass.

The fitting is put together largely in the same manner as plastic and metal:

1. The pipe cleaned from burrs is successively fitted with a coupling nut and a crimping ring;
2. The pipe is inserted into the fitting body;
3. The nut is tightened with an adjustable wrench or a socket wrench. The second wrench holds the body of the fitting against turning. Tightness is ensured due to the plasticity of the crimp ring and the pipe itself.

The fitting and pipe are sealed together by the crimp ring.

It is simple to disassemble and reassemble the fittings as needed. They shouldn’t be put in a screed or a groove, though, because they frequently leak when there are a lot of heating and cooling cycles. Tightening the nut a quarter to half turn usually suffices in the event of a leak.

Tools for mounting elements

Cutting the pipe without damaging the wall structure is not always feasible. Copper pipes have a wall thickness of only 1 mm up to a diameter of 28 mm. The evenness of the cut is not entirely guaranteed, even when using a disk pipe cutter. A calibrator is used if any irregularities in the wall are noticed. The spigot and socket are calibrated (aligned) using this tool.

There are four types of pipe cutters: manual, electric, pneumatic, and hydraulic. The pipe cutter is a mechanical clamp that is supported by two rollers. A cutting edge is present on one of the rollers. The pipe cutter is clamped and twisted around the pipe axis in successive rounds to complete the cutting process. The quality of the pipe cut increases with clamping frequency and smoothness.

A manual copper pipe cutter. This tool cuts the pipe evenly and well. However, it is advisable to first enroll in a training program in order to learn the technology for cutting through superfluous pipe segments.

Copper pipe bending frequently goes hand in hand with installation work. A pipe bender is a tool that is used to create a precise, even bend with any radius. Spring-loaded and mechanical copper pipe benders are the two varieties available. The first tool has an easy-to-use design that works well. It is intended to bend pipes with a small diameter. There are multiple constructional variations in the second type.

The spring pipe bender is a long casing that is fitted over a copper pipe. For easier use, one end of this type of casing is slightly extended. The copper pipe can be bent by hand without running the risk of jamming at the bending point when it is placed in such a springy shell. Cons: You must use your own spring tube bender for a specific pipe diameter, and the bending radius must be measured by eye.

The working spring tube bender. This fixture makes it easy to bend small diameter pipes into a variety of radius configurations. Additionally, a spring pipe bender offers very respectable bending quality.

One can bend pipes with varying diameters (ranging from 10 to 125 mm) using mechanical pipe benders, such as lever, segmental, crossbow, and hydraulic models. A segmental and hydraulic pipe bender is typically used to bend copper pipe with a large diameter. When using these devices, the bending angle can reach 180 degrees.

Technology	Description
Soldering	This method involves using a torch to heat the copper pipes and fittings, then applying solder to create a secure bond.
Compression Fittings	With this method, you can join copper pipes together using compression fittings, which are tightened onto the pipes without the need for soldering.

The efficiency and lifespan of the heating system in your house can be greatly increased by installing copper pipes for insulation and heating. For do-it-yourselfers wishing to modernize their plumbing systems, either the compression fitting or soldering approach provides dependable results.

Meticulous planning and exact execution are essential when soldering copper pipes. A solid bond is ensured by thoroughly cleaning and fluxing the pipes, and leak-free connections are guaranteed by cautious soldering and heating. Although it takes more expertise and attention to detail, this method yields joints that are secure and long-lasting enough to withstand repeated use.

Compression fittings, on the other hand, provide a simpler method of installing copper pipes. This approach appeals to those looking for simplicity and ease of installation because it doesn’t require soldering or specialized tools. For do-it-yourselfers seeking a hassle-free solution, the option is appealing because a tight seal can be achieved by simply tightening the compression nut onto the pipe.

Whatever method you decide on, adequate insulation is necessary to optimize your heating system’s efficiency. Copper pipe insulation minimizes the risk of damage to your plumbing system and helps prevent heat loss, energy consumption, and freezing temperatures. In the end, this lowers utility costs for you.

In conclusion, installing copper pipes can be a satisfying do-it-yourself project for homeowners, regardless of whether you prefer the hassle-free compression fittings or the more conventional soldering method. You can increase the value of your home and benefit from a more dependable and efficient heating system by using the right methods and making sure your home is properly insulated.

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