Installation of an in-floor convector

The right heating solution is essential to keeping your home warm and comfortable during the cold months. Installing an in-floor convector system is one popular option that is becoming more and more common in contemporary homes. This cutting-edge technology blends in perfectly with the decor of your house while providing effective and efficient heating.

Warm air is circulated through a system of pipes or channels that are buried beneath the floor to operate an in-floor convector. Naturally rising as the air heats up, the room’s temperature becomes comfortable and steady. As opposed to forced-air systems or conventional radiators, in-floor convectors disperse heat uniformly, removing cold spots and increasing comfort.

The space-saving nature of an in-floor convector is one of its main benefits. The system doesn’t take up valuable wall space or take away from the aesthetics of your home because it is installed below the floor. This makes it the perfect option for homeowners who want to keep their home tidy and uncluttered.

The energy efficiency of in-floor convectors is an additional advantage. Compared to traditional heating techniques, these systems minimize heat loss and use less energy by heating the air from the floor up. This is a more environmentally friendly choice because it lowers your carbon footprint and helps you pay less for utilities.

Moreover, in-floor convectors provide flexibility in terms of control and installation. These systems are adaptable to your unique requirements and tastes, whether you’re building a new house or remodeling an old one. Furthermore, a lot of models have sophisticated features like zone control and programmable thermostats that make it simple to change the temperature in various parts of your house.

In summary, homeowners looking for effective, room-saving, and adaptable heating solutions can reap a number of advantages from installing an in-floor convector. With its efficient heat distribution and energy-saving features, this cutting-edge technology provides modern living with comfort and convenience.

Selection, installation, connection of in-floor convectors

The problem ofwarm windows at an elevation of

In-floor convectors help solve the problem of heating rooms with high windows and rooms with external doors (the radiator near the door is also not very pleasing).

Consequently, a thermal curtain forms at the door or next to a high window.

This resolves the cold zone issue. It also eliminates the debate over design, which many feel is the most important factor. Rather than having radiators and pipes on the walls, there is a tasteful, thin strip of grille in the floor beneath the window opening.

Benefits of convector heating

In addition to directly heating the air in the space, a traditional radiator radiates heat, which releases a lot of energy. In this instance, the air flow is reflected from the window sill into the interior of the room, moving both up and sideways.

• Uneven heating of the room.

This is particularly important for large rooms where the heat loss calculation is followed when installing powerful in-floor heaters. The bottom corner on the other side, where there is almost no air circulation, can get very cold. The convectors’ immediate vicinity is home to the primary circulation flow.

Since large windows don’t insulate as well as walls do, the hottest air is concentrated near them. Increased heat loss from the space is the outcome. Additionally, there is more heat leakage through the ceiling due to the hot air concentration near the ceiling.

There is a significant dust flow in addition to the directed air jet. deteriorates ecology and hygienic conditions.

The appliances themselves need to be cleaned because they are unpractical and quickly become dirty. Debris gets trapped in the grille. Dust often clogs ribbed heat exchangers, necessitating special cleaning. A few operators mention that yearly disassembly and detergent and water jet cleaning are essential.

Increased thermal insulation is needed for installation, which takes place during floor construction (as well as underfloor heating). Installation in previously renovated spaces is frequently just not feasible due to factors like insufficient rough floor height. or entails significant challenges.

However, these drawbacks can be reduced to nearly nothing, as?, – read more.

In-floor convector design

The heat exchanger is the core component of the in-floor convector. It is constructed as a series of closely spaced metal plates that are mounted on a metal pipe that serves as the source of heat.

Adapters at the pipeline’s ends are used to connect control and shut-off valves.

The convector is concealed within the screed floor for the entire height and is mounted on the floor base, which includes the screed, floor slab, and lagging.

The overall plan for installing an in-floor convector that includes ground floors.

• Distance from the window to the appliance housing – not more than 300 mm.

Connecting the convectors via a pipeline that has a sturdy oxygen barrier made of metal plastic or aluminum foil is preferable.

It is advised to install the in-floor device pipeline as felt, corrugated tube within a heat-insulating shell.

The pipeline’s diameter is 16 mm.

The thermostat and servo drive combination is chosen as a whole.

What water convector to use and which one to select

Installing an additional heating device in the room is preferable to convector heating’s drawbacks. Experts advise utilizing a heated floor.

In order to decrease air velocity as air volume increases, it is also helpful to provide a heater with a sufficient capacity and a lower operating temperature. Employing larger and more potent convectors will provide the required energy at a lower heat carrier temperature.

The "which is never wrong" calculation of heating power, or the total power of the home’s heating appliances, starts at 100 W per m³ of area and assumes "decent" insulation (Moscow region). However, the amount is then dispersed unevenly throughout the rooms based on the glazing area and the length of the outer walls.

Panoramic windows with heated floors and in-floor convectors are becoming more and more common in contemporary homes that are being built.

Concealed heating devices known as in-floor convectors are gaining popularity. However, choosing and installing convectors can be complicated; the key is to do it correctly.

When it comes to keeping your home cozy and energy-efficient, installing an in-floor convector can be a game-changer. These systems are designed to efficiently distribute heat throughout your home, offering a comfortable and consistent temperature while also helping to reduce energy costs. By harnessing the natural convection process, in-floor convectors work silently and effectively, eliminating the need for bulky radiators or noisy fans. With proper installation, they seamlessly integrate into your flooring, providing an unobtrusive heating solution that maximizes space and comfort. Whether you"re renovating your home or building from scratch, investing in an in-floor convector system can greatly enhance the overall warmth and efficiency of your living space, ensuring year-round comfort for you and your family.

Mounting and installation of the in-floor convector

Customers want to know how to choose an in-floor convector heater and how they are typically installed in the heating system before making a purchase. Recognize the installation method of this heating device as well, since features need to be considered when choosing an in-floor convector. We’ll respond to these queries.

What measurements should the floor niche’s depth, width, and length be? After examining manufacturer recommendations, installer advice, and our own analysis, we have determined the following fundamental dimensions.

To be able to adjust and fix the height of the convector box, the niche’s depth should be 5–15 mm greater than the convector box’s own depth.

To be able to use fixing mortar to secure the convector box, the width of the niche must be 20–70 mm greater than the depth of the box.

To ensure that the convector box can be fixed with mortar and that it can be connected to the heating system, the convector length should be 20–70 more than the depth of the box.

All of these dimensions are actually conditional values because different installers have different ideas about how to install things, and additional circumstances frequently require deviating from the suggested course of action. This is evident from the installation photos that are included below.

Customers want to know how to choose and how in-floor heating convectors are typically installed in the heating system before making a purchase. Additionally, to comprehend how this heating device is mounted on the floor and what factors need to be considered in order to correctly approach

In-floor convectors

In any case, you must install in-floor convectors if your windows are panoramic. Reviews suggest that forced convection radiators are required for producing a strong heat curtain. They come in various lengths; you must select one that is just a little bit smaller than the window opening.

Types of in-floor radiators

It should be immediately noted that the type of screed has no bearing whatsoever on the installation of in-floor convectors in it. Simultaneously, various heat exchangers operate on distinct principles. There are two primary distinctions: this is how the air is circulated:

Convector architecture with organic flow.

Natural circulation radiators consist of a copper collector made up of two pipes with aluminum fins that are set inside a metal trough. The air in these batteries moves because of the temperature differential. Hot streams rise upward because they are lighter than cold streams, as is well known.

The built-in tangential fan in convectors with forced circulation drives air flow. It resembles a wheel with twisted spokes. Even though it operates silently, some noise is still made. Fan-equipped in-floor convectors are wired into the electrical grid and have a control unit that includes a thermoregulator.

Liquid coolant or a heating element inserted into the collector tubes can be used to heat the radiator. It is noteworthy to discuss universal in-floor convectors separately. As you can see from the image above, they are identical to conventional ones on the outside; the collector’s design is what makes them different. These heat exchangers are suitable for use in two-pipe and four-pipe heating systems, more on which in a moment.

Manufacturers of in-floor convectors, prices

There are many options available for in-floor convectors on the Russian market. Reviews indicate that the following radiator models are especially well-liked:

Prior to installing heating pipes in a private residence, you should plan the project and, ideally, have a hydraulic calculation to back it up.

You can find guidelines for changing the heating pipes in an apartment building here.

The price range has a big impact. Heat exchangers are available for 6,000 rubles. Branded goods can cost as much as 60,000 rubles. Naturally, price has an impact on material quality as well. An anodizing coating that is permanent can be applied to the grille. More rigid trough in more expensive models. This increases the in-floor convectors’ lifespan and makes installation easier.

The additional cost of fittings for strapping should be included in the heat exchanger’s cost. More fasteners will probably be needed because the fasteners on less expensive models are insufficiently feminine. We previously wrote about how to select fittings for the water heating system’s radiator strapping.

Principle of operation in 2 and 4 pipe system

It is possible to install in-floor convectors in two- or four-pipe circuits. The heat exchanger only heats the room in the first scenario, and it heats and cools the room in the second. Everything is easy when it comes to heating; in this instance, the convector is connected and functions just like any other battery. It is important to consider the features when purchasing as they may indicate whether or not antifreezes can be used. Water or non-freezing propylene glycol can be used as the coolant in two-pipe heating systems.

The forced ventilation convector’s working principle.

The following connections are necessary for the in-floor convector to function in both heating and cooling modes:

A device that generates cold using the same technology as an air conditioner is called a fan coil. In this instance, the floor-mounted heat exchanger will serve as a chiller. The use of water as the working substance instead of freon distinguishes an in-floor convector split system from a tandem chiller-fancoil system. This enables the simultaneous installation of an in-floor convector on two systems. It can only, of course, operate in one of the modes alternately.

Installation and piping of radiators in the floor

Because the in-floor convector’s grille needs to be level with the floor covering, it can be challenging to install one by hand. As a result, it is crucial to precisely align the heat exchanger’s trough with the water level. It needs to stand firmly because people will be walking on the grid. The installation is done in a niche that has been cut out, and the convector’s perimeter is sealed with screed. Pouring subtleties

• glue the damping tape around the perimeter of the housing;
• Do not remove the grate until the mortar is fully set.

The floor should be level with the convector grille.

Damping tape will reduce potential vibrations from the fan operation and account for the screed’s thermal expansion. The grate must be placed precisely where it should be. The grate won’t fit in the trough at all if the screed deforms it during curing.

The radiator’s location in relation to the circuit determines which of the many connection options available through the holes in the casing. Installing on the supply and return of regular ball valves is, in theory, the most straightforward type of plumbing. The tap handles should ideally be facing down to prevent visibility through the grille. Additionally, in certain convectors, the trough height is insufficient to install shut-off valves with handles pointing upward.

It is not advisable to use damp electrodes for welding heating pipes until they have dried out.

Here, we contrasted the pipes used to heat a private residence.

If your heating system is lengthy and has multiple branches of varying lengths, the tie-in method outlined above is not appropriate for you. In this instance, balancing will be necessary for the circuit to function properly, and a balancing valve on the radiator return should serve this function. Furthermore, ball valves prevent you from controlling the battery’s heating, which is a very helpful feature. As a result, thermostatic valves must be installed, ideally in conjunction with servo drives or thermal heads.

Advantages and disadvantages of in-floor convectors

Installing panoramic windows is a fashion statement nowadays. Similar to how cold air enters the room, most heat from it escapes through the glass. For this reason, radiators are typically mounted beneath windows in order to produce a heat curtain. Panoramic windows are only appropriate for in-floor convectors. It is important to choose dimensions that allow the heat exchanger to fill the entire opening.

The primary benefit is that you can make a thermal curtain for panoramic windows without obstructing the view.

Among the drawbacks is the convection heating technique, which requires air circulation as a necessary component. All of the dust that has accumulated in the radiator trough is distributed simultaneously. It’s genuinely highly damaging. Respiratory conditions, including asthma, can arise from a prolonged stay in a dusty room. As a result, remember to clean the heat exchanger as often as possible. Lifting the protective grid and using a vacuum to clear away all the debris is sufficient for this purpose.

Because the grille must be level with the finish coating (laminate or tile), installing in-floor convectors by hand is difficult.

Mounting and installation of in-floor convectors

One of the very first things you should consider before deciding to buy an in-floor convector in general is mounting and installation. Thus, there are numerous inquiries regarding the specifics of installation, overall measurements, the convector’s depth in the floor, and whether installing the convector will even be feasible. As a result, we will attempt to address the most frequent queries from our clients in this post. Our article is organized into multiple points.

Convector specialization

Dents in the walls and window

For the convector grille

Installation’s picture gallery

Installation of an in-floor convector is considered to be a fairly simple process that can be carried out either with the help of a professional or by yourself. Before starting the installation of the in-floor convector, it is necessary to carefully study the instructions for installation and use of the heater and carefully follow all the prescribed recommendations. Not only your safety, the appearance of the room, but also the service life of the convector depends on the correct installation. Depending on the room and the size of the window space, the optimal location of the convector is chosen: on the floor, on the wall, inside the floor, inside the wall, in the steps, in the window space (under the window sill). The first task is to choose the right place: convenient, safe and allowing to use the convector"s possibilities to the maximum. It should be remembered that convectors can not be installed under vents, behind curtains, blinds, doors, screens.

A niche for an in-floor convector

Prior to anything else, it is important to comprehend the type and method of niche that should be prepared for the in-floor convector. Each convector has a specific box depth, width, length, and overall dimensions. There are often questions regarding how much the niche should extend beyond the precise measurements of the box, with the depth being the most frequently asked concern.

Depth of the mounting niche: this determines how well the decorative grille is installed and how much convection the heat exchanger has. The appliance should not be more than 1 mm above or below floor level. Fit clearance: 10–15 mm.

The mounting niche’s width is equal to the convector box’s width plus the seating clearance of 30 to 50 mm. in order to enable the box to be fixed with cementitious mortar, to be able to fit the floor covering normally, and to be able to raise or lower the box as needed using adjusting bolts.

Length of the mounting niche: measure both the width and the length, accounting for a 30- to 50-mm installation gap for ease of installation, particularly when connecting from one side. Generally speaking, the connection side has a little more room left.

A drainage pipe is connected to the bottom part of the box’s outlet when installing devices meant for wet rooms or convector conditioners. Simultaneously, the box must be installed with a slope of 1-2 degrees towards the spigot. This will guarantee a more thorough removal of moisture from the device’s box.

Special support feet and adjustment bolts are included with in-floor convectors to secure the device to the floor. The installation procedure is very straightforward: after securing the feet to the uneven floor, the convector’s height can be changed using bolts. While the mounting schemes of various manufacturers are generally similar, there are occasionally variances.

Make sure spacer plates and protective strips are installed to stop debris from entering the convector before you begin filling it with insulation material, as the walls and bottom of the box are not meant to support the weight. Of course, after the device is installed, remember to take them out.

It is not permitted to introduce debris into the heat exchanger’s or fan’s body during installation as this could cause the fan to break and reduce the heat exchanger’s output.

It is advised that an indentation of 10 to 15 cm be noted when placing the convector beneath the window. It is advised to move drapes or curtains toward the convector rather than the other way around in order to avoid obstructing the heat flow. No matter how much we would like to conceal it behind lovely curtains, the convector should serve its primary purpose of blocking out cold air and warming the space.

Convector connection

Heating connections come in two flavors: flexible and rigid. Every variety has benefits of its own.

Flexible connection: The connection facilitates side connections and makes the convector itself easier to clean. The key is that flexible hoses serve as the foundation for the connection. It is very convenient to clean the convector of dust and debris in convectors where lifting the heat exchanger is possible.

Since rigid connections are made of durable materials, they are thought to be more dependable. But because the heat exchanger cannot be raised in this situation, installing an in-floor convector is more challenging.

After deciding on a convector with a fan, you must think about connecting it to the electrical grid. Convector modules (transformers) must be purchased because the fans used in convectors are typically 12 V and in the network 220. The room thermostat is managed by the module and vice versa. Through the use of an integrated sensor, the room thermostat determines the temperature in the room and keeps it there at a predetermined level. It has the ability to continuously adjust the fan speed and manage the servo drives in parallel. Certain manufacturers facilitate the installation process by offering the option to place the transformer inside a box alongside the convector.

Fan, closer or further away from the window?

The intended use of the device determines where to place the in-floor radiator fan in relation to the window opening. The fan should be placed closer to the room and direct the flow of warm air toward the glazing if the convector is only being used as a heat curtain.

If the primary purpose of the floor convector is to heat the space, the thermostat can also manage the servo drives and continuously change the fan speed for the purpose of room heating. If the fan is placed nearer to the window opening, it will direct cold air from the glazing into the space through the heat exchanger.

It is always advised to install the fan in closer proximity to the glass. These units can handle both heating and shutting off cold air because of their increased capacity in this configuration.

Indents from walls and windows

Manufacturer recommendations vary depending on the interior and range from 10 to 25 mm from the window. Here, staying within this bound is imperative, and the client’s decision-making process should be based primarily on the interior design. Additionally, a 10–20 mm indent from the walls is required, mainly for convenience during installation and future device operation.

Convector grilles

The convector grille’s material can be either wooden or aluminum. Actually, everything is based on personal taste. We want to be clear that only natural wood is used to make wooden grilles. Applying staining or varnishing is advised to preserve the wood grating. Because aluminum grilles also go through an annodizing process, they are thought to be more resistant to wear. Every grille has a 40 kg load capacity per strip. The wooden grille is more prone to external wear and tear, such as more noticeable scratches from walking on it. That is the only drawback.

Decorative frame

Many manufacturers offer convector framing, It is necessary first of all to close the joints, often the tilers are not quite ideal to fit the tiles to the convector and there are gaps and cracks, in such cases and installed framing. It comes in two types: U-shaped and F-shaped. U-shaped is less noticeable, as it does not lie on the floor covering. F-shaped is laid on top and is 1-2 mm wide, thus completely hiding the joint between the convector and the floor, but in this case the grid is a little higher than the floor, that is, a small rise is formed. If there is no frame, the floor, convector and grille are at the same level.

Step	Description
Gather Materials	Collect necessary items like convector unit, piping, fittings, and tools.
Prepare Floor	Clean and prepare the installation area, ensuring it"s level and free from debris.
Install Piping	Lay out the piping according to the system design, making sure it"s securely attached.
Position Convector	Place the convector unit in the designated spot on the floor, ensuring proper alignment.
Connect Piping	Connect the piping to the convector unit, ensuring tight and leak-free connections.
Test System	Fill the system with water, check for leaks, and test the functionality of the convector.

Putting in an in-floor convector can significantly improve the effectiveness and efficiency of the heating in your house. These systems eliminate cold spots and provide consistent comfort by evenly distributing heat throughout your space by utilizing the natural convection process.

The ability of in-floor convectors to blend in seamlessly with different flooring types, such as tile, wood, and carpet, is one of their main advantages. This implies that you can take advantage of the warmth without compromising the beauty of your house. Additionally, they don’t interfere with your interior decor or take up valuable floor space thanks to their low-profile design.

In-floor convectors are highly efficient in terms of energy use. As opposed to conventional forced-air systems, which may cause heat loss via ductwork, in-floor convectors minimize energy loss by delivering heat straight from the floor. This is beneficial for the environment and your pocketbook because it not only lowers your carbon footprint but also your utility bills.

Additionally, installing in-floor convectors is a fairly simple process, particularly if you’re in the middle of building or renovating a home. Your system can be up and running quickly with the assistance of a qualified installer, giving you years of dependable heating performance.

In conclusion, homeowners wishing to improve their heating system would be wise to invest in an in-floor convector. It is an all-around solution that meets all the requirements for contemporary comfort and convenience, including even heat distribution, compatibility with a variety of flooring types, energy efficiency, and ease of installation.

Video on the topic

In-floor convector. Installing the in-floor convector | LCD D1

In-floor convectors Varmann | features of installation and replacement of heating in a new building

Installation of the in-floor convector. Instructions

How to install in-floor convectors perfectly level. Our method

In-floor convectors on site. As we did

Installation of in-floor convectors