Installation of an electric warm floor with your own hands: calculation, laying scheme, connection

Are you tired of cold floors chilling your toes during the winter months? Installing an electric warm floor can be a game-changer for your home comfort. Not only does it provide a cozy warmth underfoot, but it can also be a relatively straightforward DIY project. In this guide, we"ll walk you through the process of calculating, laying out, and connecting an electric warm floor system in your home.

Let’s talk about the calculation first thing first. For best results, choose the appropriate size and kind of electric heated floor for your area. A few things to think about are the size of the space, insulation, and the amount of heat you want to produce. But don’t worry, we’ll explain the math to you clearly so you can make sure it’s exactly right.

After you’ve completed your calculations, it’s time to design your electric warm floor’s layout. In order to achieve even heat distribution, this involves determining where to position and how to space the heating elements. Our experts will walk you through the best practices to ensure effective heating and minimal energy waste, whether you’re installing under carpet, laminate, or tile.

The actual work begins now, when the electric heated floor system is laid out. The heating elements must be carefully positioned in this step in accordance with your layout plan. The type of system you select will determine whether you work with mats, cables, or panels. But don’t worry, we’ll provide you step-by-step instructions and advice to ensure a seamless installation.

It’s now time to connect the power supply to your recently installed electric heated floor. Although some electrical knowledge is required for this step, don’t worry—we’ll walk you through the procedure step-by-step. Since safety is the top priority, we’ll go over crucial topics like voltage specifications, installing thermostats, and testing protocols to make sure everything is operational safely.

By the time you finish reading this guide, you’ll have a warm, cozy home and toasty toes from your DIY electric heated floor. Thus, put on your work gloves, collect your supplies, and let’s begin converting your chilly floors into toasty retreats!

Varieties of warm floors

Electric floor systems are floor heating systems powered by electricity. A temperature sensor and thermostat are part of this set of gadgets.

This type of heating preserves the interior of the house, heats the surface uniformly, and takes up no useful space.

The risk of current damage exists in all electric type heating models, but only in cases of improper installation.

Cable floors

Heating mats and heating cables are examples of cable-type devices. These floors’ wire makes use of a self-regulating or resistive system.

One and two -core is the first.

• one -cereal – has one current -blooming core, it costs cheap, but has a large elm radiation, so it is not suitable for residential premises;
• two -core – two lived united by one insulating shell, radiation of electromagnetic waves below, so it is it used in living rooms.

The self-regulating cable device consists of two parallel veins with current-spitting and a semiconductor matrix. Depending on the air temperature, he can adjust the heating level.

Cable heating types:

• Hearing cable – this type of warm electric floor appeared one of the first. It has 100% heat transfer, that is, all electricity is converted into thermal. The device is a double insulation wire, the surface is heated due to it. It is laid out on the basis of a certain step.
  The installation is the most time -consuming, because more often the laying of this electric floor is carried out under the concrete screed, although a staunch method is possible. “Pie” consists of: base, thermal insulation, substrate, heating element, screed and finish coating.

• Heating mats – differ from cable in that the wire is already fixed on a fiberglass film. This makes styling with your own hands is much easier, just roll out the mat, you do not need to calculate the step -by -step step and fix the heating element.
  layers of this electric warm floor are the same as when using the matting mat, only instead of a concrete screed, the device can be poured with tile glue.

Infrared systems

This design does not use electromagnetic radiation; instead, heating is accomplished by infrared waves. It is not the air in the room that is heated, but the items within.

Rod mats and film floors are examples of infrared systems:

• Field floor – a thermal switch that has a carbon base. The heating elements consist of an alloy of copper and aluminum, they are located in parallel and packed inside the film, along the edges of which there are conductive tires.
  plus such heating – lightness of the structure, the lack of need for filing the screed, and the flooring can be any, and is laid directly on the film. It itself has a thickness of only 0.3 cm, so it does not take the ceiling height.
  In the context of this floor looks like this: a black base, foil thermal insulation, heating film, polyethylene and flooring.

• Rod – mats, from parallel carbon rods parallel. Carbon – nanostructure, from carbon base with binding components. Standard width of such mates 0.8 m, and length 25 meters. Such a device has a self -regulation function.
  The disadvantage can be attributed to the possibility of installation only in the screed.

Of this gender, a "pie"

• base;
• heat -refracting material;
• carbon mats;
• concrete screed or tile glue,
• coating.

DIY cable installation technology

Calculation of materials

The next step is to figure out how much material will be required to set up a warm electric floor in the space. It is preferable to use specialized calculators or pre-made tables created by system manufacturers for this purpose.

The primary goal is to compute heat loss accurately. Subsequently, the ideal stepping step is identified, and the necessary cable length is computed. It is important to account for the section that travels along the wall to reach the thermostat when determining the length.

The formula determines the wire’s length.

S x 100/l = h, where

• H is the length of the cable;
• S – area;
• L – total wire length.

It will also be necessary to fasten, use a copper grounding cable, connect wires, an RCD protection system, a regulator, and a sensor.

Calculation of the power and step of laying

The weather and the materials used to build the house have an impact on the device’s power requirements. It is unique for various regions; in the case of medium-sized Russia, this is:

1. In the kitchen, hall, hallway – 150 watts per m2;
2. In the bedroom and the nursery – 120 – 150 watts;
3. In the loggia glazed – 200;
4. In the bathroom – 180 watts on m2.

Furthermore, the system’s goal influences the power selection:

• The main heating is 140 – 180 watts on M2, while at least 70 % of the area is covered;
• additional – 140 watts enough.

After the zones where the furniture will be positioned are removed, the room’s energy consumption is computed. In other words, only the heated area is considered, not the one listed in the BTI’s documents.

The formula to calculate power is p1 = p2 * s * 1.3.

• P1 – power;
• P2- the heating power of M2;
• 1.3 – coefficient.

The methodical approach is evaluated using metrics like:

1. The number of linear meters of the heating element;
2. The area of the heated surface;
3. The coefficient for this room is WT on M2.

Take a look at an example of a calculation for a 25 m2 hall. Twenty m2 is left under heating while five m2 are forced with furniture. 150 watts is the power indication for these rooms. A heating element with a 3 kW capacity is therefore needed.

The linear power that controls cables spans between 12 and 24 watts per linear meter. Thus, you are able to purchase 125 or 250 m. The distance between the loops determines this step-by-step. It is thought that more uniform heating results from fewer steps. On the other hand, the installation becomes longer and more complex the more frequently the branches are located. Standard Lidge Step Average: 7 cm.

Control block

To regulate and regulate the temperature level, the temperature level is necessary. It is his responsibility to switch the floor on and off and to choose the working mode.

There are mechanical and electronic thermostats. A regulator should be installed on a wall one meter from the floor, preferably nearer to the wiring, per professional advice. In order to place it, the wall’s recess must be stopped, from which the wiring strokes must be made.

Preparation of the base

Any electric heated floor, including cables, should be laid down, ideally on a smooth, clean surface.

In the event that there is outdated finishing material, it is taken apart. Either a broom or a building vacuum cleaner is used to remove dirt from the floor. Next, it is important to check the base for any cracks or irregularities.

If there are slight deviations, they are easily cleaned. You must fill the thin layer of leveling screed, which is between three and seven centimeters, if the base has significant variations. The surface is primed before a self-leveling composition is poured. You can’t start building the next layer until the solution has dried.

On the floor slabs, a warm electric floor can be installed; however, they must first be cleared of debris.

Thermal insulation

The draft floor is covered in heat-producing and hydra materials, both of which are essential to the system’s efficient operation.

A plastic film is first applied; this will act as waterproofing. It is covered with a heater, which may be a foil-covered foam. After the plates are inserted into the joint and pass through the walls, the seams are taped together. Foam, foamine foam, or polystyrene is another material that works well for thermal insulation.

Subsequently, a dumpfer ribbon is used to glue the entire room’s perimeter, accounting for the screed’s expansion during heating.

It is advised to place a reinforcing mesh over thermal insulation to make the fixing of the heating element easier. She is going to reinforce the structure and attach the cable to it.

Laying and mounting cable

The wire needs to be laid with a planned step and in accordance with the prepared scheme. Commence at the location where the thermostat and cable are going to be connected. When utilizing a single-core wire, it is necessary for it to return to the thermostat; however, this is not necessary when using a two-core wire.

Plastic clamps will be used to secure the heating element to the reinforcement when it is present. In its absence, thermal insulation is used to mount a steel mounting tape, to which the wire will be fastened using screws or dowels. Maybe mounting straight to the heater slabs using mounting tape.

Installing the temperature sensor

The temperature sensor is placed on the ground, 1.5 meters from the wall where it is regulated. For this reason, recesses are made in the device’s wiring and thermal insulation for him.

This is required to prevent the sensor from fitting above the surface. It is firmly fixed in this recess inside a corrugated tube that has a plug on one end.

Connection – schemes

This is the most important phase that determines how the floor operates. The following is the order of events:

• Verification of wiring – after all, installing an electric floor significantly increases the load on the wiring of the whole house. Using the multimeter, the cable cross section is determined, then it is analyzed whether the wire of the warm electric floor corresponds to it. In case of non -compliance with the diameter of the cores, it is necessary to change the wiring. Under the new load, an RCD with a circuit breaker is selected.

• Connection of the device – consists in connecting the heating cable and wires from the temperature sensor to the thermostat. After that, the thermostat is connected to the nutrition.

• Additional grounding of the cable and the supply cord.

The device is turned on for several minutes to check performance before filling the screed.

Installation of the screed layer

After examining the system, you can install the subsequent design layer. There are numerous choices:

• Fill the wet screed. For this, both ready -made mixtures are suitable, so the solution of the solution is possible independently. The mixture is made of sand, cement, water, with the obligatory addition of plasticizers.
  layer thickness 3 – 5 cm. A solution is applied from the central corner of the room towards the door. The surface is equalized by the rule, and is left 28 days until it dries completely.

• Fill the tile glue. The cable is covered with a layer of 5 – 8 cm by it, and is left for a while for drying.

• Laying dry screed. For this, small quartz sand or slag is used. The method is simpler and faster than with concrete solution. The mixture is distributed over the surface of the floor, it must close the structure completely. After 12 hours, you can start further work.

The arrangement of the finish coating

You can start applying the chosen finish coating only after the solution has hardened as directed by the manufacturer. The main requirement is that the product can be placed in close proximity to heating systems, whether it be laminate, linoleum, or tiles.

Installation of a heating cable in strobes

Although it is a complicated procedure, the heating cable can be installed in strobes. It is advised only in situations where raising the floor level is not an option and there is a final cement-sand screed.

Following the hollowing out of the concrete strokes beneath the wires, tile glue is poured into the recesses. After that, the cable is compressed into the material to eliminate any air pockets.

With 1 cm-sized grooves, a wire rated between 10 and 12 W/m and between 2 and 20 W/m is used to ensure uniform heating.

Installation of a cable on an old base

Heat loss is 30% when installing a heating cable on an old concrete base or tile.

The floor is first covered with insulation, and then the mounting tape—which will eventually hold the heating element—is put in place. Tile glue is then applied in a smooth layer over the wire.

Installation of thermomatom

• The power of the warm device and the amount of material necessary are calculated – this is done by analogy with cable floors, taking into account the useful area.
• The place on the wall for the thermal attemptor is determined, the seizure for it is made, as well as the chtrobes from this site to the sensor.

• The base is prepared – it is aligned, cleaned of garbage. Then it is covered with a primer – this will improve the clutch of the floor with the solution.

• The sensor is installed – placed in a corrugated pipe and laid at a distance of at least 50 cm from the wall. It should be placed between the floor rounds.

• Mats are creeping – they fit right on the black floor, to avoid overheating, additional insulation can not be done. The product is equipped with adhesive tape, so no latches are required. Mats should not find each other. If it is necessary to cut the canvas, you need to be neat so as not to damage the electric wire.

• Connection is made, and the system check is checked – the cable resistance is checked in mats with a multimeter. The thermostat is installed, the wires of the floor and the sensor are brought to it, after which it is connected to the power. A trial launch of the system is made.

• Mats are poured with tile glue – a layer of 8 – 10 mm, and time is given to dry out. Shtrobes are also confused by this composition.

Mats can be inserted into dry screed or concrete using the same technique as installing a heating cable (which was previously discussed).

• The finish coating is laid – when pouring the match with glue, this is more often tiles.

Wait until the glue has completely dried before turning on the electrical system.

Similar to the heating cable, thermomes can be installed on the old base.

Installation of the film floor

The construction of an electric warm film floor is comparable to that of cable systems; the heating element’s configuration is the sole distinction.

Preparatory work

Making a plot for a thermostat should be your first step. It is mounted on the wall in a reachable location. He experiences a seizure during which a distribution box is inserted.

After that, the black floor is cleaned and aligned.

The application of a polyethylene film is required to provide moisture protection. To help prevent heat losses, place foil insulation (with a maximum thickness of 5 cm) with the metallized side facing upwards. Tape is used to bind sheets together.

A recess for the sensor is made, and the film’s insulation placement is noted. In order to more precisely accept data regarding the surface’s heating, the temperature sensor needs to be positioned beneath the second part of the infrared floor.

Installation of film

The prepared scheme is followed when laying the floor stripes. In order to shorten the wire, place the film by the ends against the wall where the thermostat will be installed. The thermostat will be indented 15 centimeters from the wall, and the copper contacts should be positioned lower.

Paintings should be placed in the joint; laying them out is not permitted. The film can be cut if needed, but only in accordance with lines that have been specially created; the largest segment can be eight meters. Tape is used to secure the product to the thermal insulation material.

System connection

Terminals are used to connect the filing film. In order to accomplish this, isolation is cut off from the wire’s edge, which is then pushed into the clip with one contact placed inside the film and the other on the copper tire. Bitumen tape is used to isolate each connection and fix them with pliers. The film’s location needs to be isolated as well.

Next comes the installation of the temperature sensor. The wire is extended to the thermostat in the substrate and is fastened to the bitumen isolation to the black silicon strip from the bottom of the film.

The thermostat is fixed in place. It is connected to and from the sensor by sexual cables. The power supply is then attached. You must turn the system on fully and leave it running for a few minutes in order to verify that it works.

The laying of the finish coating

The structure is covered with thick polyethylene before the final product is laid, keeping it dry and protected from moisture.

The laminate can be placed straight onto the plastic film. The waterproofing is covered with plywood sheets if carpet or linoleum are to be installed.

How to install a tile on a warm film floor correctly There are two ways to go about this:

1. A painting mesh is placed on polyethylene to improve clutch. A thin layer (1 cm) of a self -leveling composition or screed is poured.
2. Waterproofing is sheathed, sheets are fixed with self -tapping screws. It is important not to damage the film.
   Tiles are mounted on glue for warm floors.

Film floors can be mounted on top of the previous layer.

In order to achieve this, it is cleaned and then coated with a heat-reflective substance before the film is applied.

Installation of the rod floor

• Installation of the rods – the rod roll is promoted on the surface, the distance between the neighboring stripes should be 50 – 70 mm. The length of one strip should not exceed 25 m. The soaps to the substrate are fixed with tape.

• Connection – a thermostat is installed on the prepared place, to which the floor wires are connected. The sensor placed in the corrugation is placed in the gap of the substrate and is connected to the regulator, which in turn is connected to the power source.
  A prerequisite is to conduct a test test of the system before the next stage of work.

• Fill the screed – it can be a concrete solution, dry adhesive mixtures, or dry screed, layer thickness 20 – 30 cm.

• Installation of the finish coating – only after completely drying the screed is the finishing material. When laying tiles, filling the screed is not required, mats are poured with tile glue.

It is acceptable to lay a rod-warm floor over the previous coating. The installation process follows the same guidelines as laying a thermomat.

We’ll walk you through installing an electric heated floor in your house in this article. Everything will be covered, including determining the ideal heating level and setting up the system and connecting it. Whether you’re starting from scratch or remodeling an existing space, adding a warm floor can improve your space’s usability and coziness. Even if you’re not a professional, you can confidently take on this project with our step-by-step instructions. Prepare to walk on cozy warmth when you install your own DIY electric warm floor.

Common errors

Those who are new to installing electric floors at home frequently ask themselves how to do it correctly using their hands.

The installation of floors beneath large furniture is the primary mistake. The surface beneath it doesn’t cool, which causes overheating and eventually system failure.

The device’s functionality will be violated if the cable is bent. It is improper to cut the wire when installing a cable mat, so be sure to accurately estimate the area that will be heated.

Inappropriate control over the insulation resistance during installation is a common mistake made during the construction of an electric floor. The indicator shouldn’t be more than 10% over what the manufacturer has specified.

If there is damage to the film, the warm floor may cease to warm when using it. Its current components must be qualitatively isolated; if they are not, there will be electric current leaks, which will cause the system to shut off.

Don’t pour it into the screed if we’re talking about the temperature sensor. It will be challenging to replace in the event of a breakdown. Inside a corrugated pipe, it is placed.

Safety requirements for operation

Before using electric floors, make sure you read the manufacturer’s instructions included in the kit.

The fundamental safety standards that all electric ones must meet are as follows:

1. You can not shorten the heating element;
2. It is necessary to take only a screed solution intended for warm interpretation or tile glue;
3. Opening of heat -shrinking couplings in the joints of the warming and installation part of the floor is prohibited;
4. Do not put the carpet on the heating sections and place furniture without legs.

Calculation of Electric Warm Floor	Laying Scheme and Connection
Estimate the total area of the room.	Determine the layout of the heating cables or mats.
Check the power requirements based on the room size.	Plan the placement of the thermostat and sensor.
Select the appropriate wattage per square foot.	Prepare the subfloor by cleaning and leveling.
Consider the insulation beneath the floor.	Install the heating elements following the layout.
Choose the type of heating element: cable or mat.	Connect the cables or mats according to the manufacturer"s instructions.
Ensure compatibility with the existing electrical system.	Test the system for proper functioning before covering with flooring material.

A satisfying project for homeowners trying to increase their home’s comfort and energy efficiency is installing an electric heated floor. You can calculate the requirements, plan the layout, and make the necessary connections to install the system yourself by following a few easy steps.

First and foremost, it’s imperative that you precisely determine how much heating the area will need before installing the electric warm floor. It is necessary to consider elements like room size, insulation, and preferred temperature. This computation will assist in figuring out the right wattage and mat or cable spacing for the heating.

After figuring out how much heat is needed, you can start designing the electric warm floor’s layout. In order to achieve uniform heating, this entails choosing where to put the heating elements in the room and making sure they are evenly covered. Thorough planning will help minimize cold spots and maximize system efficiency.

It is imperative that you closely adhere to the manufacturer’s instructions when positioning the heating elements. This can entail using adhesive or fixing strips to attach the heating cables or mats to the subfloor. In order to avoid overheating and possible system damage, it’s also imperative to avoid overlapping or crossing the heating elements.

Lastly, you can move forward with connecting the required electrical components after the heating elements are installed. This usually entails following the manufacturer’s instructions and connecting the heating cables or mats to a power source and thermostat. Before covering the system with flooring material, make sure all connections are secure by checking them twice.

In conclusion, with careful planning and attention to detail, installing an electric heated floor can be a manageable do-it-yourself project. You can reap the comfort and energy efficiency advantages of a warm floor throughout your house by precisely estimating the heating requirements, carefully planning the layout, and installing the necessary electrical connections.

Video on the topic

How to connect Chinese warm floor. Do -it -yourself installation from beginning to end.