Installation of an electric boiler of heating boiler in the house

An efficient heating system is crucial for maintaining a warm and comfortable home. A common choice for home heating is an electric boiler. Electric boilers heat water using electricity rather than gas or oil like traditional boilers do, offering homeowners a dependable and practical option.

Putting in an electric boiler in your house has a number of advantages. First off, compared to their gas or oil counterparts, electric boilers are frequently smaller, which makes them perfect for small-space homes. Electric boilers are also renowned for operating quietly, which makes them a covert option for home heating.

Energy efficiency is one of the main benefits of electric boilers. Electric boilers have the potential to be more energy-efficient than other boiler types because they produce heat from practically all of the electricity they use. This leads to lower energy costs and a smaller environmental effect.

Knowing the installation procedure is crucial if you’re thinking about installing an electric boiler in your house. Even though installing an electric boiler is typically simpler than installing a gas or oil boiler, it’s still a task best left to the experts. By ensuring that your boiler is installed safely and correctly, a qualified heating engineer can reduce the likelihood of any problems later on.

All things considered, installing an electric boiler in your house can prove to be a wise investment, offering dependable and effective heating for many years to come. Even in the coldest months of the year, an electric boiler can provide warmth and comfort to your house with proper installation and upkeep.

To achieve efficiency and comfort in your home, installing an electric boiler is a wise decision. You can wave goodbye to the inconvenience of fuel deliveries and storage, as well as the emissions that come with using conventional fuel sources, when you install an electric boiler. Electric boilers are a great option for any home because they are quiet, small, and simple to install. Choosing an electric boiler allows you to have consistent, dependable heating throughout your home while also lowering your carbon footprint. An electric boiler installation is a great way to say hello to warmth and convenience!

Strict requirements

Many people are terrified of installing gas equipment because they think it could poison them or explode, two possible outcomes. However, our people’s attitude toward electric machinery is more straightforward. Turn on whatever you want using the socket there. On the other hand, there are strict regulations pertaining to electrical equipment, and breaking them can have serious repercussions that can go from minor material damage to threats to one’s life and health.

• The wiring in the house should correspond to the loads of the installed equipment. The cross -section of cable cores should strictly correspond to the current strength and the real power of consumption.

• You can not use a common outlet group to power an electric boiler. It is necessary to install a dedicated line, without gaps, necessarily equipped with a circuit breaker.

• An important point is the place where it will be produced Installation of an electric boiler in a frequent house. Only in the room where even short -term contact with water is excluded. The wall where the equipment will be placed should not only withstand the load equal to the mass of the unit, but also be made of non -combustible materials. If the house is wooden, the wall must be protected by the appropriate materials.

• When planning the entire heating system, the placement of other components should be taken into account. So, for example, the system of emergency discharge of water pressure (subversive valve) should not be located above the boiler. (cm. exclude even short -term contact with water).

• The distance from the top of the boiler, to the ceiling should be at least 20 cm. Ideally, this distance must be increased to 50 cm, if there is such an opportunity.

• Relative humidity in the room where the installation is carried out should not exceed 85%. Temperature range from +5 0 to +40 0 s.

• The cable laying should not be carried out in the immediate vicinity with the pipes of the tap line and the heating pipes. Or, it is necessary to use a protective box. You should also clarify. That wires are not used for connection, only a cable, strictly with copper veins of the corresponding section.

Requirements based on the consumer power of the boiler

• Equipment with a capacity of not higher than 3.5 kW can be connected through a socket. It is not recommended to use a household, cheap outlet. Suitable for specialized, which are used to connect household electric stoves.

• A boiler over 3.5 kW not exceeding 7 kW consumer power, are connected strictly through a separate circuit breaker of the protection of the RCD.

• If the power is from 7 to 10 kW, the line of 220V is not suitable. A 380V line is required.

• When heating the house of large area, equipment with a capacity of over 10 kW may be required. To install it, a separate resolution will be required.

How to choose the right power

One crucial decision to make is the heating boiler’s power selection. Making the correct decision will guarantee that the room remains at a constant temperature regardless of external factors. When calculations are done correctly, rapid air warming in a cooled room and uniform room heating are ensured.

There are two ways to calculate power:

1. Based on the area of heated rooms;
2. Based on the volume of the heated room.

Calculation on the area

The basic value that can be used to heat a 10 m2 room is used to calculate power. This choice is highly arbitrary because the climate zone and other variables are not taken into consideration. Conditionally speaking, it is thought that 1 kW is needed to heat the area’s premises.

That is to say, if a 50 m2 house is built, equipment with a 3.5–7 kW capacity will be needed.

Additional calculations are accepted with the modification of these moments if we consider the height of the ceilings and the thermal insulation of the walls. These modifications are frequently seen in experiments across all climate zones. There are numerous calculation methods. One of them is predicated on applying the s*k*100 formula. Where:

• S is the area of the heated room;
• K is the coefficient of heat loss, which changes depending on the minimum indicators of air temperature. For the basic indicator, K = 0.7, used for the climatic zone, where the minimum temperature threshold is not lower than -10 0 s.
• If the minimum threshold is lower, then the coefficient increases by 0.2 at each threshold of 5 0 s.

Standard rooms are used to calculate this formula. This calculation is inappropriate if double-glazed windows are installed, extra thermal insulation is used in the room in a layer greater than 150 mm, the living quarters are raised to a height of 2.7 m and above, and the heated attic is not used for the roof’s heat insulation.

Calculation by the volume of the room

When accounting for the heat loss coefficient, this method enables you to calculate the power of heating equipment based on the volume of the heated room. The following fundamental variables determine the coefficient:

• Brick walls with improved thermal insulation, 2 -chamber double -glazed windows are used in the windows, the roof is mounted from heat -insulating materials. Coefficient from 0.6 to 0.9.

• Brick walls of double masonry. Roof and windows are standard. From 1 to 1.9.

• Reduced thermal insulation of the wall. From 2 to 2.9.

• Wooden walls or walls like sandwich panels. From 3 to 4.

Using these indications, the formula v*k*t/860 can be applied, where:

1. V is the volume of the heated room;
2. K – coefficient;
3. T is the temperature difference of the room and street.

Take this as an illustration:

50 m³ with walls that have less thermal insulation. The air temperature in the room is +25 0 C, and the lower temperature threshold is -10 0 s. In other words, there is a 35 0 s temperature difference.

50 * 2 * 35 * 860 = 4 kW (smaller rounding applied).

Although this number is high, it is perfect in the event of extended frosts because it will maintain a comfortable indoor temperature. Not all possible sources of heat are considered. This moment is not included in the computation if the unit is also meant to heat water for household uses (shower, dishwashing).

The pros and cons of an electric boiler

In a frequency house, installing an electric boiler offers several noteworthy benefits. To begin with, the equipment cost is not too high, nor is the installation of the boiler or the entire heating system expensive.

• The level of safety of modern equipment of this plan is quite high. Subject to all the rules and the rate of installation, the danger comes down to zero.
• There is no open fire, there is no need to install the chimney. Since there is no combustion process, there is completely no excretion of hazardous gases, which is present when installing a gas heating boiler. Accordingly, the efficiency is higher, since there are no losses for the exhaust of combustion products.
• Simplicity in operation and maintenance. Almost silent work, except for the sound of turning on and disconnecting the relay in automatic mode.

On the other hand, there are a number of drawbacks to installing an electric boiler. The exorbitant cost of electricity is one of them. The room’s excellent thermal insulation can lessen this financial burden. Furthermore, if you formally apply for a heating system while using electricity, the cost of electricity will be decreased by updating consumption guidelines.

The complete reliance on electricity, which is not always reliable in some settlements, is a major drawback. You won’t have access to heat in the event of an accident, which most frequently happens in the winter.

Squeezed the coolant requirements up to a respectable level. Normal water that has been heated systematically causes the heating elements to fail because it deposits a lime plaque on them.

If equipment with a capacity greater than 9 kW is needed, a 380V connection line will be needed. Getting a permit to arrange it isn’t always possible.

Step -by -step instructions for installation

Installing an electric boiler in a private home doesn’t seem to be a difficult process that calls for expensive equipment. Many people manage without the assistance of specialists most of the time. Knowing the installation guidelines and the procedure itself is crucial.

Since an electric boiler will be the hub of the entire system and moving additional equipment may be a challenging process, the installation location must be decided upon in advance. It is required to make placement and surface preparations in light of the regulations governing the positioning of this kind of equipment. Recall that there shouldn’t be any combustible materials in this area. Wooden walls need to be sheathed with non-combustible material to prevent fires.

Canopies, dowels, and screws—everything you need for installation—are all included. However, it’s possible that the customized version will need an extra fastener that the supplier does not supply. Verify this beforehand.

Make dowel hole drillings. usually, with the exception of large systems, a diameter of no more than 10 mm. Fix and pill the boiler. Keep in mind that the fastening option may change based on the model. Some versions come with a mounting bar that you attach to the wall and then the unit just hangs on it.

The binding must be organized as the next step. Everything is also dependent on the boiler option. For instance, the monoblock case version of the electric boiler already has everything needed. Its layout includes systems to prevent overpressure, an expansion tank, and a circulation pump. To fill the system with water to the required pressure, all that needs to be done is run the heating line through the tap and to the feed and return nozzles. Such strapping should usually be sufficient if the house is small.

Only heating elements, coolant, and an automated temperature control system are included in the design of more powerful, but simpler to operate units. The latter might not exist.

In this scenario, purchasing a circulation pump, an expansion tank, threaded connections, and a security group—which consists of an air valve, a manometer, and a subversive valve—is required. The security group also provides protection against excessive pressure.

An illustration of a protection group

The plan calls for attaching the expansion tank and the hydrophoretor, to which, if the floor is not available, a special bracket is used for the fasteners. Additionally, a pump and a filter that stops solid fractions from moving through the system and potentially deactivate the pump are required, as is a system of pipes with security groups placed in the appropriate locations. Install the filter by following the arrow-pointing direction on it. Prior to the pump, the filter must be installed strictly. The circulation pump itself has an appropriate arrow as well. They have to point in the same direction.

It won’t be unnecessary to fix the pump with a clamp on a rigid support in the wall because it vibrates slightly during operation. The expansion tank is not essentially located in a closed system. However, many people with the security group make mistakes. This group should be positioned above all other system components because it has an air discharge valve from the system. Thus, you do not include the "delivery."

A security group is frequently mounted in the basement along with an electric boiler. Therefore, for a systematic air discharge, heating radiators on the first and second floors may continuously require the owner’s participation. We do, however, recall that the security group is outfitted with a subversive valve, meaning that it is strictly forbidden to place anything directly above the electrical equipment, which is the heating boiler. Even in the event of a valve malfunction, water shouldn’t reach electrical nodes.

Regarding the binding of the heating system, then there are several options, each of which can have both pluses and minuses. The option is selected based on the features of the room. And here, it is best to consult a specialist in advance. Ideal when the stream goes in one direction, bypassing all the premises of the house and returning through the reverse feed line to the boiler. Unfortunately, this is not always feasible, for example, when the house of a complex structure has two or more floors, and also has extensions that also need to be heated. In these cases, various ideas are used, up to additional circulation pumps and valve systems.

The installation of the locking valve system, which will cut off the entire system from the main nodes, is not a trivial step. As a result, you won’t have to empty the system of all of the coolant if the pump needs to be replaced, either when cleaning the filter or during boiler repair and maintenance. Prior to the liquid being supplied to the system, the heat carrier discharge valve to the sewer must also be provided.

In terms of the binding as a whole, everyone selects a reliable and inexpensive option here. Some people are primarily in need of metal pipes, while others are passionate about metalloplasty because of how simple it is to install. The construction of private homes is where the term "soldering" is most frequently used. PPR-S pipes with a cross section of 25–32 mm (no longer needing to be taken further) and fiberglass reinforcement for high temperatures are soldered using fittings into a monolithic system with the fewest possible threaded connections.

They also choose the radiators at their own discretion. Aluminum radiators are a good option for a regular home where the heating system’s pressure does not go above 1.5 atm and they are reasonably priced.

In terms of efficiency and comfort, installing an electric boiler for heating your house can be revolutionary. It not only provides a dependable source of heat but also reduces your carbon footprint by doing away with the need for conventional fuel sources like gas or oil. Electric boilers are becoming a more affordable and efficient option for many households due to technological advancements.

The ease of use of an electric boiler is one of its main advantages. Electric boilers don’t need a flue or chimney for ventilation, unlike gas or oil boilers, which can make installation easier and lower the chance of carbon monoxide leaks. Furthermore, compared to their conventional counterparts, electric boilers are usually quieter and smaller, which makes them perfect for homes with tight spaces or where noise pollution may be an issue.

The adaptability of electric boilers is another benefit. You can lessen your dependency on non-renewable energy sources even further by integrating them with renewable energy sources like solar or wind turbines. This can result in long-term energy bill savings in addition to benefits for the environment.

Moreover, electric boilers give you fine control over the heating settings, so you can adjust the temperature precisely to your liking. By only heating your home when necessary, this level of control can result in both increased comfort and possibly reduced energy consumption. Furthermore, a lot of electric boilers can be remotely programmed or operated through smartphone apps, offering you even more convenience and flexibility.

To sum up, installing an electric boiler for home heating has a lot of advantages, such as better comfort and control, lower environmental impact, and increased efficiency. The availability of renewable energy sources and technological advancements have made electric boilers an appealing choice for homeowners wishing to upgrade their heating systems. Electric boilers are a great option for new construction or renovation projects because of their ease of use, flexibility, and long-term cost savings.

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