Installation of an aluminum heating radiator with your own hands: algorithm step by step

Your home can benefit from installing a heating system in terms of comfort and cost savings. Aluminum radiators are a common option for home heating. They can enhance the aesthetics of any space and are effective and long-lasting. It can be a rewarding task to install an aluminum radiator yourself if you’re a hands-on person who enjoys do-it-yourself projects.

It’s important to comprehend the fundamentals of heating system operation before you begin. Radiators distribute heat throughout the rooms, pipes carry hot water, and a boiler or other heat source powers the heating system. The magic happens in the radiator; hot water from the boiler circulates through it, heating the aluminum fins, which warm the air around them.

There are a few benefits that aluminum radiators have over other kinds. Aluminum heats up quickly and distributes heat effectively because it is a good heat conductor. Aluminum radiators are also lightweight, which makes handling them during installation simpler. It’s not too difficult to install an aluminum radiator in your house if you have the correct equipment and follow the instructions.

We’ll walk you through the steps of installing an aluminum radiator in your house in this article. You can follow our simple and easy-to-understand algorithm. This guide will assist you in doing the task correctly whether you’re installing a new radiator from scratch or replacing an old one. So grab your tools, roll up your sleeves, and let’s begin this do-it-yourself project!

Where and how best to install aluminum radiators?

The batteries’ location is a crucial factor that impacts how well they function. They are typically positioned underneath the windows to keep out cold air. "Flapped" windows are the outcome of selecting the heating device’s width incorrectly.

Heat transfer varies depending on whether radiators are mounted in a niche or beneath a window. In the initial scenario, it will be beneath. The screen facing the battery has the ability to postpone the room’s air temperature by 25–30%.

You can buy a screen and install it on the wall behind the radiator to improve heat transfer and efficiency. Heat will be reflected back into the space, so the foil or final design is appropriate.

Selecting the appropriate placement parameters:

• from the back wall of the device to the wall – no higher than 5 cm.
• The width recommended between the floor and the radiator is 10-12 cm;
• Distance from the radiator to the windowsill-8-12 cm.

When installing independently, it’s important to rule out the possibility that the sections will tilt; this will interfere with the coolant’s natural flow and lessen the heat indicators.

Components and installation features

Not all metals work well with aluminum. Copper pipes and parts are not appropriate for him; avoid using this metal at all. It is not permitted to install metal-plastic pipes because they cannot withstand high pressure. Use metal pipes if you choose to install an aluminum heating radiator in your apartment so that it can survive the pressure drops caused by a centralized heating system. An anti-corrosion treatment for steel pipes will prolong their useful life.

Using polymer pipes in autonomous heating systems is acceptable.

Original parts supplied by the manufacturer:

• Wall mounts;
• Seals;
• Valves for the release of air from radiators that prevent corrosion;
• Radiator plugs;
• Floor mount.

You will also require a dynamometric key and a FUM-toe for work.

Aluminum battery installation should be done independently, strictly adhering to the device’s assembly-disassembly circuit. Put your trust in a qualified specialist if you lack confidence in your skills.

Packing the batteries is the first step. Attach the acquired sections to all traffic jams and valves. Put in a thermostat and all the valves on the taps. To reduce the chance of breaking or leaks, all connections must be properly tightened, strictly adhering to the instructions in the attached documentation. When expanding sections and mounting adapters, aluminum abrasives cannot be cleaned because doing so will cause a coolant leak.

Take note! After screwing in air valves, the exhaust heads ought to face upward.

The following methods are used to connect the aluminum radiator:

• Diagonal connection is the most energy -efficient, in which the battery gives heat from hot water. The pipe with the incoming stream is connected to the upper fitting, and the abyting – to the radiator located on the back of the radiator, this method is used in two -pipe and single -pipe heating systems. Disadvantage – such a solution will not fit into every design.
• Side connection. Not the most effective way: a pipe with a refrigerant feeds is attached to the side fitting, the return – to the parallel to the parallel, the reverse order of connection will reduce the heat transfer in half.
• Lower connection – for aesthetics of the type of room, all pipes are hidden under the floor or behind the wall. Pipeling pipes are located in the lower part of the battery. Installed on floor brackets with a single hook on the wall to maintain balance.

Heaters are fastened to the floor or the wall. Once the installation location has been determined, the brackets are fixed to the wall by using dowels and a perforator to drill holes. We keep a 5 cm gap between the battery and the wall during installation.

How to disassemble or assemble a heating radiator.

Hello everyone! We’ll be spending this brief post assembling and disassembling sectional heating radiators. We’ll discuss three different kinds of radiators here:

• Aluminum.
• Bimetallic.
• Cast iron.

Than the sections of radiators are twisted together?

Since they are all sectional, they can all be gathered and disassembled. However, some manufacturers deliberately modify the nipple so that the standard key cannot be used to disassemble their radiator. I then said something I couldn’t understand: nipple. I’ll now demonstrate what it is:

This is a typical iron piece with the left thread on one side and the right thread on the other. In between sectional laying is a white ring. Although it can be made of paronite, it is made of silicone in this instance. The diameter of the nipple in bimetallic and aluminum radiators is one inch, but the Soviet cast-iron nipple radiators have a diameter of one and a half inches. This implies that various keys are required for these heating units. Let’s now discuss the keys.

Radiator assembly.

You’ll need a tool to take the radiator apart and put it back together. According to this, it appears to be a "miracle of technology":

There are other options available for using this kind of tool. Numerous design solutions are available in stores. These, for instance, are such:

The purpose of the key, regardless of appearance, is to twist and unscrew the nipple. For myself, I’ve always used the first key option when collecting radiators. Steel that has been hardened is the ideal material for the tool. If not, you won’t be able to use one key for more than a few joints before it breaks and you have to get a new one.

Connection options for heating systems

When installing, you will need to select the radiator and determine how to connect it to a central network. You have a number of options at your disposal, each with a specific application:

• Diagonal connection. This scheme is the best choice for long multi -section heating batteries. It is distinguished by the fact that the pipe supplying water is attached to the pipe from above from one edge of the radiator, which is removing to the lower pipe from the other side. Among the shortcomings of such a system can be called heavy repair in case of problems: the scheme does not imply the removal of the battery without a complete disconnection of heating.

Connection choices for requirers

Crucial! Ten percent or so of the potential heat will be lost when the water comes from below. Reduced linkage

This wiring design appears to be very subtle. If the pipes are concealed beneath skirting boards or inside the floor, this method is employed. The filing and layering pipes are angled so that they are perpendicular to the ground. The primary disadvantage of this system is that it loses as much heat as possible. One-way connection on the side. is both the most popular and efficient. By connecting the supply pipe from above and the dialing from below from the same side of the battery, the maximum amount of heat transfer is guaranteed. It is not advised to replace certain pipes because inversion drastically reduces the heating power.

• Lower connection. This wiring scheme looks most imperceptible. It is used if the pipes are located inside the floor or hidden under skirting boards. The filing and layering pipes are directed perpendicular to the floor surface. The main drawback is that this system involves the greatest possible amount of heat loss.
• Side unilateral connection. Is the most common and effective. The maximum heat transfer is ensured by connecting the supply pipe on top, and the dialing – from the bottom from the same side of the battery. With inversion, the heating power is significantly reduced, so it is not recommended to change the pipes in places.

Crucial! The water duct’s extension cord is used since the battery’s long-range sections aren’t heated enough.

• Parallel connection. It occurs through the thermal pipeline built into the heating system. The dumping. Such a system allows you to replace the batteries without turning off the central heating, however, the main minus is that with insufficient pressure in the battery system poorly warms up.

Crucial! This kind of heating radiator connection is very difficult to do by hand; it is best to leave this task to qualified installers.

• Consistent connection. In this case, the transfer of heat by the system occurs due to air pressure in it. Excess air descends using the crane of Maevsky. The main drawback of such a system is also the impossibility of repair without disconnecting the entire heating system.

How to place a bimetallic device

To minimize heat losses, the apparatus ought to be:

1. 8-12 cm from the floor. There will be less – there will be difficulties with cleaning, and the floor will also heat up hard. If it is too high, then near the floor will be formed with cold air.
2. 10-12 cm from the windowsill. If this distance is reduced, then convection will deteriorate. This will result in a drop in the thermal power of the bimetallic radiator.
3. 3-5 cm from the wall or the heat-reflecting shield placed on it. Less distance will worsen convection. It will also cause dust accumulation on the wall.
4. In the center of the window opening. The center of the radiator and the center of the window should be on the same line. Deviation can be if it does not exceed 20 mm.

Another crucial factor is the battery’s length. It ought to be greater than 70–75% of the window opening’s width. This will enable the heated air to rise from the radiator and produce the heat curtain that is needed to block cold air. Along with thermal air, the room will also enter if the radiator’s length is half the width of the window opening. As a result, some areas of the room will become cold.

You should always read the advice provided by the company that released the heating device to avoid making a mistake. They provide exact instructions on how to install a bimetallic radiator.

Assembly of sectional heating batteries

The fact that sectional heating devices can be retrieved from any number of registers determined by calculation makes them convenient. You can modify the device’s heat transfer by adding or removing sections. If the section fails, it can be eliminated by installing a fresh registry in its place. The following is how sectional heating devices are assembled.

1. To assemble the sectional battery, you will need fittings with external threads (nipples), a plug, two shut -off ball valves and a Mayevsky crane. The process of assembling sections is as follows.
2. On the desktop or pallet, they are laid, collected in the factory, a battery, to which additional sections must be connected.
3. Paronite rings are dressed on two nipples (fitting).

How to add sections to the aluminum radiator by gathering them Visit YouTube to view this video.

• Nipples have two multidirectional threads. They are slightly screwed into the holes of the batteries on one side.
• One or more sections assembled to the main battery so that the free ends of the fittings enter the second holes.
• A special key is threaded through the opening of the first block and slightly turn the nipple to the click. The click indicates that the threads of two parts coincided correctly.
• Turning the nipple key is drawn into the first sectional block.
• Having inserted the key from the side of the second block, the sections are finally tighten into a single structure.

Every twist should be executed carefully and without exaggeration. It is important to make sure that the connected parts are applied straight during assembly.

Placing rules

The majority of the time, radiators are mounted on the wall beneath window openings. Installing them in areas where significant heat losses may occur, such as corners of the room, beside balcony and entrance doors, and along long, deaf walls, is another option. In this instance, the required heat transfer should be satisfied by the combined power of all radiators.

Recommended radiator installation dimensions

You must back away at least a little to allow for free air circulation around the battery.

• 25 mm from the surface of the wall;
• 50 mm from the windowsill;
• 60 mm above the floor.

It is important to keep in mind that heat losses from heating radiator installations in apartments with screens or in depth niches can range from 3–4% to 20%–25% of the device’s power.

In the event that a repair is needed, gravity systems must guarantee the reverse outflow of water. In order to achieve this, the battery must be positioned with a 1-1.5 ° slope in the direction of the supply pipe; otherwise, the coolant will not fully merge.

Wall markings

But, just like with any other house, installing batteries in a wooden one starts with marking the walls, which determines where the heating devices will be installed in the ensuing phases of construction. The pipeline should always be inclined by at least 6 degrees along the water current if the system is installed in the home with a natural coolant circulation. In the worst scenario, breaking this rule will prevent the system from operating and will inevitably cause air plugs to appear. This rule is irrelevant for systems with mandatory circulation.

The wall that the radiator brackets will be installed on must be marked on the wall. Radiators cannot be installed near to walls; instead, there should be a gap of five to ten centimeters. The radiator needs to be lowered at least 10 cm from the floor and 8 cm from the windowsill. Pencil is used for marking purposes. The width of the radiator sections must be considered when marking in order to ensure that the installed holders are precisely in between the sections.

Installing foil material behind the radiators is a good idea as it will serve as a heat reflector. It is possible to greatly improve the radiator’s efficiency and lower heat losses by leaving a space between this material and the radiator of at least 3 cm.

Оогда разметка завершена, отверстия необходимых размеров пудут соответствии с ней. After using a hammer to jam the dowels, self-tapping screws are used to fasten the brackets. You can buy specific batteries with carvings on them so you can screw them straight into the dowel, making your work easier.

To ensure that the components match, you must consider the type and features of the installed radiators when selecting the brackets. Additionally, you should consider how many brackets are used for a single radiator (usually, three are sufficient, two at the top and one below).

General connection requirements

The device needs to be correctly assembled before it can be installed. Usually, the equipment supplier attaches comprehensive instructions to the equipment itself.

Assembly of the radiator

The following is the process for putting the device together:

• screw plugs and traffic jams in the radiator;
• attach shut -off valves;
• attach temperature controllers;
• inspect the nipples for reliability;
• connect air valves with the heads up.

Installation of the device

Aluminum radiator installation can be done on your own. Adherence to all regulations and guidelines is imperative for the proper installation. It is advisable to do calculations before beginning work. The gadget should be placed at least 10 cm away from the windowsill, 12 cm away from the floor, and 3 cm away from the wall. The brackets must then be fastened with dowels. Cement mixture is used to cover the holes. The wall is where the radiator is fastened.

You can begin connecting once an aluminum bracket device is installed. You’ll need a pipe key for this. Make sure the heating system is turned off before doing that. Stricten the FUM tone sections. With their assistance, the radiator is then connected to the pipes.

The gadget is crimped once all the connection work is finished. To prevent a blow to the radiator’s internal pressure, the coolant should be added to each element gradually. Once the connection is made, the packaging film is taken off. It guards against mechanical harm to the gadget.

It is recommended to inspect aluminum radiators twice a year. Periodically launching completely submerged for two weeks is also advised.

Compatibility with heating systems

Manufacturers advise operating pressure in 10–20 atmospheres at a maximum temperature of 130 degrees for a typical aluminum heating device. What are the actual normal mode parameters of various heating systems?

Heating system	Pressure	Temperature
With a centralized supply of coolant	3-5 kgf/cm2	40-95 ° C
Autonomous	1.0-2.5 kgf/cm2	50-80 ° C

Elevator node located in an apartment complex. Manometers display the supply and heating return pressure in megapascals. Approximately, one MPa is equivalent to ten atmospheres.

The working pressure of the batteries easily and fairly comfortably fits within the operating parameters of heating systems.

Thus, they are unrestricted in their use in both private and residential buildings? Fellows, don’t jump to conclusions.

You can in autonomous contours. With a correctly designed heating system (that is, with a sufficient volume of the expansion tank and a functioning safety valve), their parameters are entirely under the owner’s control and will never exceed the values that I have specified.

The membrane expansion tank stops pressure from building up by making up for the coolant’s expansion during heating.

Security group for heating boilers. The manometer on the left provides visual control over the circuit’s pressure. With a risky increase in pressure, the safety valve (on the right) releases the coolant into the drainage system.

However, emergencies could arise in apartment building heating systems, which could result in pressure surges.

I’ll provide a few instances:

1. Hydrodar. It arises if you quickly fill with water with a riser thrown out during the repair work or the entire circuit. The water is practically inconsistent, therefore, at the moment when it completely displaces the air through an airborne or a dumper, the pressure on the flow of the flow can briefly grow to 25-30 atmospheres;

The hydraulic boom’s aftereffects. Along the nut, the aluminum section burst.

1. Annual tests of heating mains for density. They are held after the end of the heating season and are designed to identify weaknesses in worn pipelines: cold water with a pressure of 12 kgf/cm2 or more is pumped into the heating main.
   during the tests of the entrance valves of the elevator node must be blocked, and the resets are open. Now imagine what will happen if for any reason (a locksmith error, failure of one of the valves) the elevator will not be cut off from the track. It is not difficult to predict the result: the batteries designed for 10 atmospheres will burst.

A spike in temperature that occurs during density tests. It is obvious that the aluminum radiator won’t be well received at test pressure.

Aluminum heating radiators should only be installed in independent heating systems, such as private homes or apartments with their own boiler, in my opinion. There are far more robust bimetallic batteries available for SO systems.

A bimetallic radiator comprises an aluminum nut with high thermal conductivity encircling a robust steel core.

Installation of aluminum heating radiators: from purchase to launch

Salutations, allies! Which heating systems are aluminum batteries appropriate for, do you know? And how does one go about taking apart the outdated cast-iron battery and installing an aluminum radiator? I’ll respond to these queries today.

An increasingly common solution for private homes with independent heating is aluminum batteries.

Why aluminum

How stylish are radiators made of aluminum?

They are superior in two ways:

• High heat transfer (up to 210 watts per section);

The heat flow for the coolant temperature at 90 °C at +20 °C in a heated room is indicated by the manufacturers. Heat transfer decreases proportionately with decreasing battery to air temperature differential.

• Low price. Section of a standard size (500 mm along the axes of nipples) can be bought for less than 200 rubles.

Online retailers are offering the Monlan 500/70 ten sectional radiator for 1960 rubles.

A steel register can only compete with aluminum batteries in terms of value and heat transfer ratio. However, the way it looks is better suited in a garage or workshop than a living room.

Compatibility with heating systems

Manufacturers advise operating pressure in 10–20 atmospheres at a maximum temperature of 130 degrees for a typical aluminum heating device. What are the actual normal mode parameters of various heating systems?

Heating system	Pressure	Temperature
With a centralized supply of coolant	3-5 kgf/cm2	40-95 ° C
Autonomous	1.0-2.5 kgf/cm2	50-80 ° C

Elevator node located in an apartment complex. Manometers display the supply and heating return pressure in megapascals. Approximately, one MPa is equivalent to ten atmospheres.

The working pressure of the batteries easily and fairly comfortably fits within the operating parameters of heating systems.

Thus, they are unrestricted in their use in both private and residential buildings? Fellows, don’t jump to conclusions.

You can in autonomous contours. With a correctly designed heating system (that is, with a sufficient volume of the expansion tank and a functioning safety valve), their parameters are entirely under the owner’s control and will never exceed the values that I have specified.

The membrane expansion tank stops pressure from building up by making up for the coolant’s expansion during heating.

Security group for heating boilers. The manometer on the left provides visual control over the circuit’s pressure. With a risky increase in pressure, the safety valve (on the right) releases the coolant into the drainage system.

However, emergencies could arise in apartment building heating systems, which could result in pressure surges.

I’ll provide a few instances:

1. Hydrodar. It arises if you quickly fill with water with a riser thrown out during the repair work or the entire circuit. The water is practically inconsistent, therefore, at the moment when it completely displaces the air through an airborne or a dumper, the pressure on the flow of the flow can briefly grow to 25-30 atmospheres;

The hydraulic boom’s aftereffects. Along the nut, the aluminum section burst.

1. Annual tests of heating mains for density. They are held after the end of the heating season and are designed to identify weaknesses in worn pipelines: cold water with a pressure of 12 kgf/cm2 or more is pumped into the heating main.
   during the tests of the entrance valves of the elevator node must be blocked, and the resets are open. Now imagine what will happen if for any reason (a locksmith error, failure of one of the valves) the elevator will not be cut off from the track. It is not difficult to predict the result: the batteries designed for 10 atmospheres will burst.

A spike in temperature that occurs during density tests. It is obvious that the aluminum radiator won’t be well received at test pressure.

Aluminum heating radiators should only be installed in independent heating systems, such as private homes or apartments with their own boiler, in my opinion. There are far more robust bimetallic batteries available for SO systems.

A bimetallic radiator comprises an aluminum nut with high thermal conductivity encircling a robust steel core.

Choice

What should I consider when selecting radiators?

For us, there are two crucial parameters:

1. Thermal stream per section. The bigger, the better. An increase in thermal power is achieved by an increase in the area of the section of the section;

Heat transfer is increasing in tandem with the heating device’s surface area. Aluminum batteries are distinguished for this reason.

1. The center distance between the collectors of the sections (it is directly related to the height of the radiator).If you change the cast -iron battery to an aluminum, you should choose a radiator with an interase distance of 500 mm: it will take the place of the old without a serious alteration of the eyeliner. Low radiators (200 and 350 mm) are mounted under low window sills or panoramic windows, creating a thermal curtain in front. High batteries (800-1200 mm) provide maximum heat transfer with a small length.

High aluminum radiator: least width and maximum heat.

Choose devices with maximum working pressure if, against my advice, you wish to buy aluminum batteries for the central heating system. You will have some insurance against emergencies thanks to the margin of safety.

Dismantling of a cast -iron radiator

How can an aluminum battery be installed in place of a cast iron one? It goes without saying that you should begin by disassembling an old radiator.

A common method for fitting cast-iron batteries into the drives. A winding counter seals the thread of the pipe, which has a long thread and is screwed into the radiator plug as it passes.

Connection of a cast -iron radiator in the driving. It can be found in any Soviet-built home.

Although it is theoretically possible, Americans rarely install aluminum radiators on drives because they greatly simplify the process of connecting and disassembling the battery. Additionally, short threads rather than long ones like in drives were used for the American installation.

Position

When installing the radiator, there are a few easy guidelines that need to be followed in order to guarantee optimal heat transfer:

• The distance from the wall should not be less than 2 centimeters. The gap will provide unhindered movement of convection air flows on the back of the battery;
• Distance to the windowsill during installation in the window sill-at least 8-10 cm. A closely located windowsill will again limit convection;
• The minimum distance from the floor is 10-12 cm. The gap will provide a flow of cold air replacing the heated and pushed up.

Where the battery is located on the window sill. The convection flows are allowed to freely travel through the spaces created by the radiator, wall, windowsill, and floor.

Any gaps, boxes, or screens restrict air flow and lessen the heating device’s ability to transfer heat. The radiator’s nominal power will not exceed half when it is installed in a plasterboard box.

How should an aluminum radiator be mounted on brackets?

The placement and quantity of the brackets ought to be as follows:

• Under the upper manifold, two brackets are mounted along the edges (between the extreme and the second from the edge of the sections) and an additional one bracket for every 5 sections;

It only takes two brackets with a limited number of sections to secure the radiator’s upper collector.

• The lower collector can be fixed with the only bracket. Its task is to eliminate the deviation of the radiator from the vertical position.

The diameter of the plastic dowel’s outer diameter and the hole in the bracket should match precisely. Using a rye or divorce key, the bracket is screwed into the dowel.

Draw a level marking around the holes. Should one of the apertures beneath the upper collector prove to be marginally more or less than required, encircle the bracket affixed to it using any type of lever (such as a steel pipe, gas key, etc.).

Place the radiator in a level position. When the water is released and the heating is initiated, the air will not remain inside.

Binding

Adjust the battery’s heat transfer and air to be drawn in order to connect it to the eyeliners: You’ll require:

American and throttle are frequently fitted together. The so-called angular valve for connecting the radiator is shown in the picture.

Four passing traffic jams (two with the left and right threads) and two plugs (or a plug and airy) are usually included in the battery. You can obtain a configuration for any battery connection scheme to the eyeliners after drowning out the appropriate traffic jams.

A set for attaching an aluminum or bimetallic radiator is shown in the picture. It has four passing traffic jams (two on the left and two on the right), three brackets, a plug, and an airborne (both with a 1/2-inch thread).

Jumper

The installation points of the shut-off-regulating reinforcement of the eyeliner must be connected by a jumper if the throttle or cutting off the taps are placed on the eyeliner to the radiator in an apartment building.

Why is it necessary?

Any eyeliner throttle will control the entire heating riser’s patency in the absence of a bypass. It’s not a given that your neighbors, both above and below, are dealing with the same issue just because it got hot for you. Your soon-to-arrive frozen neighbors will publicly contest your lofty moral standards.

The water in the riser will keep flowing through the jumper even if you block the taps, which will cut off the battery.

Joining the eyeliners

There are three possible battery installation strategies:

The obvious advice is to use a diagonal or lower connection for radiators that are divided into ten or more sections.

Installing an aluminum heating radiator yourself is a manageable and rewarding project that can enhance your home"s warmth efficiency. To start, gather all necessary tools and ensure you"ve turned off the house"s heating system. Begin by draining the old radiator to prevent water spills. Next, measure and mark the positions for mounting brackets on the wall, ensuring they align with the radiator"s mounting holes. Drill the holes and insert wall plugs, then mount the brackets securely. Now, it"s time to connect the radiator valves; use thread seal tape to ensure a tight seal. Lift the radiator onto the brackets and connect the valves to the home"s heating system, double-checking all connections for leaks. Finally, refill the heating system, vent any air pockets, and test the radiator to ensure it"s working efficiently. With careful attention to each step, you"ll enjoy a cozy and well-heated home in no time!

Preparation for disassembly

At this point, you must gather all required instruments and remove the battery from its fastening location. Depending on the radiator’s type and condition, the following tools might be required for the job:

• radiator (nipple) key;
• a divorce key or a set of finding keys with different head size;
• autogen or a grinder;
• construction hair dryer;
• hammer, sledgehammer;
• chisel.

Disassembly tools for heating batteries

An iron rod with a hole or bent "ear" on one end and a head shaped like a scapula on the other is called a nipple key. The cutters on the tool you bought in the store are spaced apart by the width of the heating radiator sections. They will assist in locating the required nipple-gayki.

Once the tools are ready, a location for radiator disassembly must be furnished. An appropriate floor or sturdy table. Remember that the battery will leak dirty water, and make sure you place a waterproof cloth underneath.

Video on the topic

DIY aluminum radiator installation

Heating radiator strapping in detail