Installation of a water warm floor under the laminate. Instructions

Do you get sick of stepping on chilly floors in the mornings? Or are you trying to find a cost-effective way to heat your house without compromising style or area? You might find the answer you’re looking for by installing an underfloor heating system that runs on water underneath laminate flooring. This configuration offers a comfortable space while keeping your interior’s sleek appearance. It combines the convenience of laminate flooring with the comfort of heated floors.

A water warm floor functions below the surface, freeing up valuable space and dispersing heat uniformly throughout the space. Traditional radiators can be large and frequently restrict where furniture can be placed. This contemporary heating solution is becoming more and more popular among homeowners because it offers comfort and practicality, regardless of whether you’re building a new home or remodeling an existing one.

In addition to providing a more uniform distribution of heat than traditional heating systems, underfloor heating also runs at lower temperatures, which could ultimately result in lower energy costs for you. You can create a cozy atmosphere without overheating the air by using the radiant heat principle, which distributes warmth from the floor to warm objects and people in the room.

Underfloor heating may seem like a great idea, but the installation process can be intimidating. Fortunately, installing a water warm floor under laminate flooring can be a doable do-it-yourself project or a job for a professional installer with the correct advice and instructions. We’ll take you through each step of the process in this guide so you can take advantage of the advantages of a cozy and welcoming house without having to worry about difficult installation processes.

Which laminate to choose for water heating?

For a water-warm floor, laminate flooring needs to adhere to specific specifications:

• The laminate should be strong and resistant to high temperatures (it is important to notice that the water warm floor is a low -temperature system). Such material will withstand various mechanical and temperature loads, will not be deformed, and the gaps between the panels will not appear. Almost all brands of modern laminated coverage withstand this requirement.
• The material should have high thermal conductivity. It has a low coefficient of thermal resistance (KTS) not exceeding a value of 5 to 10 m2 to/W. Such a system will not overheat, the lower part of the laminate will not experience a large heat load, heat will quickly enter the room. It is recommended to buy a material that has a minimum formaldehyde content (class E1, E0 or class 32-33)-a toxic substance that can be released from plates at high temperature (above 30 degrees). Choose a laminate with h2o markings.
• The coating should have increased water resistance.
• It is recommended to use plates with a thickness of 8 mm.

Which substrate to choose under the laminate?

It is advised to cover the substrate with laminate. The substrate needs to be well-heated, 1.5–3 mm thick, and have an average density, like in a perforated special substrate.

The substrate’s primary purposes are:

• The substrate removes the knock and creaks that appear when walking.
• Makes the floor warmer. The substrate has a thermal system, when buying a substrate, its indicators must be taken into account so that heat does not go under the floor. The total CTS (thermal resistance coefficient) consists of indicators of the laminate coefficient and substrate, it should be no more than 0.15 m2 to/WT
• When laying the laminate plates, the substrate levels the surface of the floor, as it is able to contract and stretch in the right places. She amortizes external pressure, given the fact that in the places of attachment of the laminate plate they can move slightly.
• Using 3 mm polyethylene, you can reduce laminate flexibility from 15 to 17 dB, using felt and polystyrene-by 20 dB.
• The substrate provides moisture insulation using a special film made of polyvinyl chloride, polyisobulene or polyethylene with a thickness of 200 μm. In modern models, these materials are included in the structure of the laminate, sometimes they are bought separately.

Types of the substrate

These kinds of substrates work well for residential buildings:

• Polyethylene (cheap, use if the floor is even).
• Polystyrene foam (with high thermal insulation, moisture resistance, immunity to temperature fluctuations and mechanical stress).
• Cork (does not mold, does not crush, preserves heat well and absorbs noise). However, they have a high price and can pass moisture if you do not put a plastic film under it.
• Bitumen-industrial and combined substrates, consisting of several materials, have good characteristics, but there is a disadvantage-fire hazard, therefore in residential buildings are rarely used.

Important information to be aware of! The submerged substrate should not be confused with the laminated underwater substrate. Always keep in mind that the substrate is an inadequate heat insulator.

We’ll walk you through the steps in this article to install a water-based underfloor heating system under your home’s laminate flooring. This effective technique optimizes space and comfort without sacrificing style, while simultaneously providing warmth during the colder months. From prepping the subfloor and positioning the heating components to putting in the laminate flooring on top, we’ll go over the detailed instructions. You can guarantee a successful installation that improves your living area’s coziness and energy efficiency for years to come by adhering to these precise instructions.

Installation of pipes on concrete floor

Should you choose to create a water-warm floor beneath the laminate on your own, you ought to be familiar with the process. It is possible to lay laminate on both wooden and concrete surfaces. We’ll examine the technology involved in installing warm water pipes on a concrete foundation.

1. The work should be done before installing the doors and finish plaster the walls.
2. You need to make sure whether the height of the doors in the living room allows you to install a warm floor, since its height is at least 14 cm (the height of the doorway is approximately 220 cm). It will not hurt to calculate the heat loss of the house using the calculator on the Internet – they should not be higher than 100 W /m2.
3. It is necessary to make a niche in the wall and install a collector cabinet above the floor, where there are no wires. If there is automation, then you need to make recesses for the wiring and bring the main pipeline feeding the return. You can use an easier option: install on the wall, closer to the center of the house, a collector cabinet and bring the pipes to it. If there is a project, then act according to him.
4. Prepare the black surface to avoid air pockets and traffic jams: remove the garbage, cover the cracks, level the floor, removing the differences (norm – 5 mm). If this is not done, then the hydraulic resistance in the competition will increase.
5. Waterproofing polyethylene film laid to the surface, protects well from moisturizing.
6. On the perimeter of the walls at the floor level, set the damping tape with a width of 6 to 12 mm. This polyethylene tape helps to compensate for the expansion of heat screed.
7. Lay the insulation (polystyrene foam, its density is 30 or more kg per cubic meter of surface area) with a thickness of 5 to 10 cm.
8. Put the mac, polystyrene or special tape on the floor.
9. Lay pipes without joints in diameter from 16 to 20 mm “snake” in narrow aisles, “snail” in rectangular rooms. The “Snail” method has a number of advantages: the pipe needs to bend less, 90 degrees, there are almost no hydraulic losses, the heat is evenly distributed.
   “Snake” should begin to be laid from the cold wall to warm, steps 100-300 mm. Pipes are put in 150 mm or more from the walls. If the pipe is 16 mm in diameter, then the length of the loop is up to 100 m, if 20 mm, then 120 m.
   When laying a “Snail” visually divide the surface into the main and edge zone. A step along the edges of the floor will be more often (10 cm), since there may be cold walls, in the rest of the part – step 20 cm. If the room is large, then use 2 pipe loops.
10. In the collector cabinet, install a collector block and a mixture mixing unit. Connect the pipe with the euro with cones to the outputs of the collector without confusing the supply with the return.
11. Take a picture of the floor surface with stacked pipes so that they will not break them then.
12. We do the testing of the system in this order: first, block the ball valves in front of the mixing node, then set the pressure by the pump, 6 atmospheres are enough, and check if everything works properly.
13. Cement screed (cement-sand mortar or half-dry mixture) is poured under a pressure of 6 bar. It should be no higher than 4.5 cm from the top of the pipe. After 3 days, the working value of the pressure is set, and only after 20-28 days we supply heat to the pipes.
14. After the screed froze, set the flow meters (the temperature should be the same on all the pipes of the return) and set the necessary parameters on the pump mixture.
15. If there is automation, then install drives, thermostat and controllers.
16. On a flooded water warm floor, lay the substrate and laminate.

How to install a dry floor on a wooden basis?

Paul without screed can be completed with one of two methods:

• Polystyrene plates;
• Wooden rails and modules

Wood surfaces are covered with smooth or bossed polystyrene mats. If they are smooth, you will need to drill holes in them so that pipes can be installed. This system installation method is highly comfortable and reasonably priced. Polystyrene foam or regular foam up to 4 cm thick are most frequently used. If the plate has bosses, or protrusions no more than 25 mm, polyethylene pipe with a diameter of 16 mm is inserted into the grooves and secured with mounting locks.

Store-bought modules can be put together at home. Pipes are installed in surface divots. The re-system is constructed from MDF strips that are 130 cm wide, 2 cm thick, and have a 150 mm pipe step. metal plates that are frequently installed and produce a constant warm field. Finally, a substrate and laminate are applied to the warm floor’s pipe surface.

Dry warm floor installation

It is feasible to install a warm floor on a wooden base if you live in a home with an independent heating system. Based on the use of metal heat exchange profile plates, the "dry" technology is applied. Many contend, however, that this approach is ineffective and that a method involving pipes packed with screed is preferable. It will be essential to install special equipment and make channels for the pipes.

Compared to concrete, assembling dry, warm flooring is far simpler. When installing, a few requirements must be followed:

1. Replace worn boards, clean the floor of the dirt.
2. Make antiseptic impregnation.
3. Love the cracks with putty for wood, perform a thin screed where there are large changes in the floor level or cover the entire surface with plywood or OSB sheets, tightly adjusting them to each other.
4. You can place insulation under the floor between the lags.
5. Spread a film made of polyethylene (thickness of 200 md) for waterproofing, using tape, connect the joints.
6. Lay out the damping tape at the edges.
7. Put the mats tightly to the walls and fasten the locks.
8. Process the joints with glue, let it dry.
9. Mark the laying of pipes, the diameter of which is 16 mm by 80 m of the length of the circuit “snake” and 20 mm per 100 m of the “spiral” circuit.
10. Metal heat distribution plates (aluminum, steel or copper) place in grooves or between bosses, put the pipe in their holes. Between the plates, do not leave the gaps. To align the entire system in the place of bends, place the polyethylene substrates.
11. Cover the entire system with a special film, fasten the pieces with tape.
12. Put GVL or plywood and fasten the sheets with each other with self -tapping screws. Use the chess order when laying 2 layers, connect the joints with PVA glue.
13. Put the substrate on the water warm floor, then the laminate plates.

Under laminate flooring, installing a water-based underfloor heating system can significantly improve the comfort and energy efficiency of your house. Even in the coldest months, you can turn your place into a comfortable haven by following these easy steps.

First and foremost, it’s imperative to make sure your subfloor is appropriately prepared. This implies that it must be clear of any debris that can obstruct the heating system, clean, and level. Spend some time looking for any damage or unevenness; taking care of these problems now will prevent headaches later.

Installing the insulation is the next step after prepping your subfloor. This acts as a barrier, keeping heat from escaping and directing it upward into your living area as opposed to sinking into the subfloor. Optimizing the effectiveness of your underfloor heating system requires high-quality insulation.

Now that the insulation is installed, the water pipes can be installed. Making sure they are firmly affixed to the subfloor and uniformly spaced requires careful execution. In order to achieve the best possible heat distribution throughout the space, be sure to adhere to the manufacturer’s recommendations regarding pipe layout and spacing.

It is crucial to carry out a comprehensive pressure test after the pipes are installed in order to look for leaks. In order to find and fix any problems before installing the laminate flooring, this step is essential. After making sure everything is waterproof, you can install the laminate flooring normally, just be careful not to harm the pipes in the process.

In conclusion, adding a water-based underfloor heating system beneath laminate flooring is a wise financial decision that will greatly improve your home’s comfort and energy efficiency. You can benefit from a warm and comfortable living space for many years to come if you carefully follow these instructions and pay close attention to every detail.