Installation of a metal furnace in the bath Basic rules and features

Few things compare to the coziness and comfort of a warm bathhouse when it comes to designing a peaceful haven in your house. For many owners of baths, installing a metal furnace is a popular option because it offers effective heating that improves the bathing experience. But before beginning this project, there are a few important things to keep in mind in order to guarantee optimal performance, functionality, and safety. We’ll go over the fundamental guidelines and specifications in this guide to help you install a metal furnace in your bathhouse.

Priority one when installing any heating system should always be safety, especially in a small space like a bathhouse. It’s important to familiarize yourself with local building codes and regulations regarding the installation of furnaces and other heating appliances before starting the installation process. Following these recommendations will guarantee legal compliance in addition to assisting in the prevention of accidents.

Choosing the appropriate size and type of metal furnace for your bathhouse is another crucial factor. Considering elements like insulation, ventilation, and heat loss, the furnace’s size should correspond to the size of the area you plan to heat. Selecting a high-quality furnace from a reliable manufacturer will also improve the furnace’s overall performance, longevity, and efficiency.

The metal furnace must be installed correctly for it to operate and be safe. It is advised to seek advice from a qualified HVAC specialist or skilled installer to make sure the furnace is installed, connected, and vented appropriately. This includes things like having enough space between flammable objects, having enough ventilation to prevent the buildup of carbon monoxide, and having a secure anchor to stop it from moving or toppling.

Optimizing the efficiency of the metal furnace also requires effective insulation of the bathhouse. Inadequate insulation has the potential to cause substantial heat loss, which lowers heating system efficiency and raises energy bills. Using the right materials to insulate the bathhouse’s walls, ceiling, and floor will help keep heat in and provide a cozy bathing environment.

Finally, to guarantee the metal furnace’s continuous safe and effective operation, routine maintenance and inspections are crucial. This entails maintaining the chimney and furnace, looking for wear or damage, and taking quick action to fix any problems to stop them from getting worse. You can enjoy the warmth and comfort of your bathhouse with peace of mind, knowing that your metal furnace is installed correctly and performing at its peak, by adhering to these fundamental guidelines and features.

Basic Rule	Ensure Proper Ventilation
Feature	Use Heat-resistant Materials
Basic Rule	Keep Flammable Materials Away
Feature	Regular Cleaning and Maintenance
Basic Rule	Follow Manufacturer"s Instructions
Feature	Professional Installation for Safety

Preparation of the base and walls

The amount of labor required to prepare the base is determined by the materials used in furnace equipment manufacturing as well as the overall weight of the structure. The weight of the chimneys, the mass of the flue pipes, the mass of the stove, the stones inside the stove, the volume of water in the tank, and the weight of the brick screen surrounding the housing are all taken into account when determining the overall weight.

Pre-mounting firewalls is done during installation on a wooden floor if the indicator weighs less than 700 kg. A 0.5 mm-thick metal sheet could be used to make it. The metal is positioned beneath the heat-insulating material. It could be an asbestos canvas, a heat-resistant keramovolis plate, or a slab of silicon ceramic. A brick substrate or the granite or ceramic tile cladding surrounding it will also benefit from protection from the heat. Prior to now, you had to determine the load on the floor beams based on their dimensions.

Building the foundation is required if the entire weight of the structure rests on a single, small beam. The base area is determined by the stove device’s dimensions; the foundation should protrude up to 10 cm past the case’s edge.

The foundation is built on a finely-trimmed concrete base, on screw stilts connected to the bathhouse, or on a monolithic slab, depending on the type of soil at the location. To ensure a dependable and superior installation, detailed instructions are utilized for filling the stove base.

Depending on the depth of the soil’s freezing, you must dig a pit between 120 and 150 cm in order to install the stove on a monolithic foundation. Sand and fine gravel are used to level the bottom, and then liquid cement is added. A gravel cushion is covered with a waterproofing layer. Formwork is constructed along the pit’s walls using boards or plates.

A reinforcement frame needs to fill the entire volume of the foundation. After that, concrete solution is poured all the way to the floor. Once it has dried for a while, you must remove the formwork and replace any empty spaces with sand.

A pile base is created for bulk soil that has a high rise in meltwater. Marking the intended area and aligning the angles is the first step in the work. The piles are fastened to the bath foundation’s depth at the corners. Each pile’s base is welded together with heads and channels that line up in height. On the channel, a steel sheet is placed and secured. On the base, a layer of concrete is poured.

Only on solid soils is the foundation with a minor deepening of up to 60 cm feasible. Similar construction is used, with the exception that the concrete layer is only 30 to 40 cm thick and lacks a reinforcing element.

The purpose of prepping the walls adjacent to the stove is to shield them from the heat. For this, the walls can be bricked out, have a fireproof screen made of non-combustible material hung, or have 2-3 cm of plaster applied. Brick protection is applied with a few centimeters of space between it and the wall.

Brickwork has convection holes to improve ventilation behind the wall.

You can use heat-resistant mineral slabs and metal sheets as refractory screens for the walls of steam rooms. You can apply finishes made of porcelain tiles, mosaics, natural stone, and ceramic tiles on refractory slabs.

Prior to installation, a wall niche must be prepared if the stove equipment is housed in the dressing room and steam room walls and has a remote firebox. The top channel’s dimensions and the wall’s manufacturing material are what determine the size.

The need to take security measures

The bath stove’s metal construction means that it gets extremely hot when in use, necessitating the adoption of safety precautions like fire fighting.

Installation prerequisites:

1. The furnace should be placed half a meter from the bath walls, and a thermal screen made of insulating material is installed near the partition through which the furnace canal exits.
2. When there is a single thermal insulation from a metal or cement sheets with a thickness of about 1 millimeter on the side wall, they leave a smaller gap – up to 25 centimeters. When using two sheets (double isolation), the distance is made equal to 12.5 centimeters. Fix thermal insulation material so that it does not touch the ceiling and floor, not close to the wall, but leaving a 3-centimeter gap.
3. The distance from the surface of the structure to the ceiling should not be less than 120 centimeters. Between the furnace door and the nearest door, a gap of at least 125 centimeters is observed. The furnace channel is located 40 centimeters from the wooden wall, but in the presence of a protective screen, the distance is made up to 25 centimeters.
4. In order to ensure fire safety, the walls of a metal unit must be overlaid with a stone or brick. Board furnace furnace decoration – the necessary event. A steel sheet is placed under the stove structure, which will not allow fire when it enters the floor of the coal. A square of 40×40 centimeters is laid in front of the door door.

There are furnace structure models available that don’t require brick covering and have a remote firebox. The kit includes metal screens to protect the walls and floor.

Installation of metal furnaces

Any fried metal carries a high risk of fire. Even with a special protective screen in place, the case’s temperature is relatively high, and there are open chimney pipe segments.

Metal installation products Well-known brands bought from the retail chain are either independently or by the installers’ masters who work for the business where the roasting was bought.

In any event, comprehensive installation instructions are attached to this design, along with a thorough description of the specifications for the installation site, its order, and the required materials.

The following mounting sequence can be used for a homemade metal stove:

1. Taking into account a small mass, the device does not require an additional foundation, but the base should be prepared for it. It should be even, durable and Reliable platform (its usual size 70 × 70 cm). It can be performed using brick masonry or other materials. The height of the base is greater 10 cm and does not exceed 20 cm.
2. Before starting the installation of the furnace, it is advisable to take care of neighboring walls. As a rule, the place of bathhouse is the angle of the steam room. 1 or 2 walls and the part -Bank partition are adjacent to it. If the partition is often made of brick, then the walls must also be covered with brick or porcelain border slabs, isolate heat -insulating materials and install the screens reflecting heat. The distance to the side walls should be more 0.5 m, From the top of the furnace to the ceiling – 1.2 m, from the furnace to the wall – 1.25 m.
3. For models that are planned to drown from the dressing room, a hole of the desired size in the partition between the rooms is made paired and dressing room. Its size is selected with a margin so that there is a small distance between metal and brick (due to the expansion of metals when heated). The resulting gap will be filled with the heat -insulating material.
4. A layer of the heat insulator and a sheet of iron on which is installed on the prepared base are laid Metal structure firebox to the partition and it is carefully inserted into the prepared hole.
5. Kamenka is filled with stones selected in advance.
6. Wooden (any combustible) floor boards opposite the furnaces closed protective metal apron, fixed on top of the heat -insulating sheet. Sheet length – 0.7 m, width – 0.5 m.
7. A decorative overlay is mounted for the front part of the furnace, a furnace door, ash.
8. The pipe is installed in compliance with some norms. The height of the part of the pipe protruding above the surface: flat roof – more than 0.5 m;Distance from the skate of the gable roof – more 1.5 m, and the height of the pipe is 0.5 m; located at a distance of 3 m from the skate of a gable roof, the pipe cannot be below the skate of the building.
9. A mandatory element for any chimney is a damper. A comfortable place for its placement will be a steam room. The pipe of the drain of smoke and gases can consist of several parts that should be reliably fastened to each other. The lower part of the pipe can be made of metal or a stainless alloy is used. Wall thickness – 0.5 mm. Located in attic space Part cannot be left without thermal insulation (a lot of condensation is formed due to a sharp temperature difference).
10. To the place of the alleged contact of the pipe with the ceiling of the weld Metal screen, which helps to properly organize its transition through the ceiling, protect the surface of the ceiling from high temperature and reliably connect one part of the pipe with the other.
11. Some models are equipped with special brackets, reliably fixing the pipe and screen to the ceiling. Such fasteners gives additional stability of the entire structure.
12. Installation heat exchanger and capacitance For hot water, it is performed in parallel with the main pipe if the model of the "samovar" type is used.

Choose a place for installation

The stove should be placed so that there is no risk of accidental burns and that it does not obstruct the steam room. If the fuel is not removed from the room, you must leave room nearby for firewood. The stove is typically positioned in a corner.

Be mindful of the distance between the stove and the shelves to prevent visitors from being burned in the bath by hot steam from spilled water. The manufacturer’s recommendations will determine how much space should be left between the stove and the wall; however, bear in mind that the fireproof "apron" will be mounted on the wall. e

It is necessary to compute the distance from it.

One major disadvantage of the wood stove is that, once you have the fuel inside and it is arranged standard, you will need to take care of ventilation because it burns oxygen out of the air. To prevent the heat from the steam room from escaping, a ventilation hole has been drilled into the floor.

The issue can be resolved in another way. You can outfit the portal in the outer wall or the dressing room partition so that fuel is accessible from the outside. This option will be especially beneficial for a small steam room because the heater will be close to the wall and you won’t need to leave space for firewood. Of course, the best stove for this kind of situation would be one that is rectangular and has a fuel protrusion.

Flaws

1. Since the fuel in this case is wooden firewood, and the metal surface of the equipment is susceptible to severe heating, the operation of the furnace is associated with a large risk of ignition of the surrounding elements.

Owing to the aforementioned conditions, using the heating unit is subject to extremely strict fire safety regulations, particularly if the oven is a privately produced item.

1. For the independent implementation of engineering work, special knowledge is required. In addition, a home -made structure is subject to all kinds of malfunctions, since such manipulations require the most accurate compliance with all technological norms. It is extremely difficult to achieve a similar result in non -production conditions.

Bath stove made of metal

Characteristics

Steel stoves produce a lot of heat, so the structures around them need to be protected in some way.

The material that steel heating elements for baths are made of is one of the primary factors that determines their features ().

The following characteristics of steel are:

• High thermal conductivity. Due to this, the unit heats up very quickly, and the temperature of the outer walls will be very high, which can lead to burning or overdrying of air, as well as overheating of the surrounding objects and building structures;
• Low heat capacity. With rapid heating, the furnace also cools quickly, so for comfortable use requires a constant furnace;
• Relatively small structure of the structure. This makes it possible to do without a massive foundation under the stove, which reduces and simplifies the process of installing the device on the workplace;
• Corrosion activity. Steel has the property of rust, so additional processing of the surfaces of the device will not be superfluous;
• Simplicity of processing the material. You can assemble a metal bathhouse with your own hands using a corner grinder with cutting and cleaning disks, as well as a device for manual arc welding of medium power with electrodes;
• The price of the material is also relatively low, especially since craftsmen most often use waste and former use of steel parts, the condition of which allows the further operation of these parts.

The image displays a brick casing that shields the surrounding area from the apparatus’s intense heat radiation.

Crucial! The following features establish the fundamental guidelines for putting in a metal furnace in the bathhouse.

Due to the high temperatures on the device’s exterior walls and structures, extra care must be taken to prevent fires and to safeguard access to these areas to prevent burn injuries to people.

Advantages and disadvantages of metal models

There are benefits and drawbacks to installing a metal furnace in a bathroom.

A metal furnace for a steam room has advantages and disadvantages just like any other gadget. It is best to be aware of these characteristics in order to comprehend how to install a metal stove in a bathhouse.

Let’s begin with the benefits:

1. The metal unit quickly heats up, so you do not have to wait long for the bath to “go off”;
2. The design of the furnace is quite strong and reliable, withstands mechanical and shock loads, high pressure and mass;
3. Metal is a very heat -resistant material, therefore, when overheating with it, nothing terrible happens;
4. Metal surfaces are easier to clean and repair;
5. The device of a metal furnace for a bath is relatively simple for independent assembly and repair;
6. Relatively low cost of the device;
7. Small weight of the furnace;
8. The tightness of welding joints increases the reliability and safety of the device.

Even a homemade gadget can function reliably for a very long time with the right installation.

Crucial! Furnaces gathered in accordance with the guidelines provided by SNiP, GOST, and other regulatory documents have all these benefits. If not, a stove like this could endanger people severely.

If we discuss the shortcomings, the following will be the primary ones:

• High thermal conductivity and low heat capacity of the metal;
• Powerful aggressive infrared radiation of the external surfaces of the furnace;
• The danger of producing burns in contact with the details of the device;
• The effect of overdrying air in the room;
• The presence of electrochemical corrosion of the metal;
• The appearance of metal units is inferior to stone analogues.

Crucial! By using certain strategies and tactics during installation, we can maximize the benefits and minimize the drawbacks of metal furnaces by being aware of their pros and cons.

The opening

If you intend to install a furnace with a remote fireplane, you should give considerable thought to the size of the hole that will be made in the wall.

This parameter simultaneously influences multiple factors, including:

• The dimensions of the fuel channel;
• The material used for the construction of the wall;
• The nuances of the fuel channel isolation.

Take a closer look at each of these matters to ensure that the stove is installed in your bathroom correctly and to the best possible standard.

The dimensions of the fuel channel

Two important factors that are considered in the process are the firebox’s height and width. However, the final dimensions of the opening will not be impacted by the fuel channel’s length or depth.

Consider the thickness of the walls through which the furnace is to be removed when purchasing stoves for wooden baths with remote fireboxes. This indicator is extended by 5 centimeters.

Experience demonstrates that, depending on the furnace model, the channel lengths can range from 16 to 30 centimeters. As a result, measurements are a strictly personal factor that are influenced by the kind of stove being used.

Wall materials

Next, we look at the stove’s output issue in relation to the various materials that can be used to build baths.

These days, the three primary materials used to construct bathroom walls are:

These materials have unique characteristics because they merit special attention.

Brick and concrete

Depending on the firebox’s height and width, a furnace with a remote firebox installed in an opening in a concrete or brick wall must be installed. Here are some helpful suggestions for handling these kinds of walls.

1. The height of the opening can be 40-60 centimeters, depending on the furnace.
2. The width of the opening usually varies from 25 to 50 centimeters.
3. When installing a stove on the foundation, its features should be taken into account. In such a situation, 10-20 millimeters are added to each side of the opening so that the opening is larger than the furnace. This is done due to the expansion of the material when heated. Otherwise, the stove simply crashes into the walls of the bathhouse and its destruction will begin.
4. By installing stoves with a remote firebox, the gaps are necessarily filled with heat -resistant elastic materials – mineral wool, asbestos cord or basalt cotton wool.
5. If the brick wall of the baths is finished with lining, be sure to make at least 10 centimeters from the furnace.
6. The rest of the open surface of a brick or concrete wall is sheathed with a stainless steel sheet, making a hole for the furnace in it.

Tree

Wooden baths present a slightly different situation.

• Most often, a beam or log house is used to build a bath;
• First, the opening in the wall is made and laid out of brick;
• If the base is provided, the size of a bath furnace with the mandatory one height of the legs is added to its height;
• Next, the gap width is added during expansion;
• Having received the figure, another 25 centimeters of brick masonry are added to it, located upward and in two directions;
• From the walls of the bath furnace to surfaces that can ignite, it is necessary to leave a gap of at least 25 centimeters;
• The rest of the space between the masonry made of brick and the wooden wall is sealed with heat -resistant materials.

Design features of the installation

When the bathhouse is being built before the furnace is selected, everything works best. In other situations, the room’s configuration needs to be changed.

First and foremost, they consider where the metal furnace will be submerged—either next to or in a steam room. Every choice has benefits and moments of difficulty.

Due to the increased burning of oxygen when opening the firebox, the installation of the fuel unit in the steam room is accompanied by the equipment of an efficient ventilation system. The second drawback is that there is an extra spot designated for firewood, which presents challenges in a tiny space. It’s important to install additional heating in other rooms when running a bath during the winter. The ability to control the combustion intensity without having to exit the steam room is the only benefit of this approach.

Installing a metal stove with a remote firebox makes it much more efficient:

• oxygen in the steam room is burnt to a lesser extent;
• In the compact room, free space remains and cleanliness is observed;
• Heating is present simultaneously in several rooms of the bath.

Say something! If a metal unit installation was not included in the bath’s construction, installation becomes more difficult since a hole must be made in the wall.

The furnace door should be taken into consideration when selecting a stove. When it’s in the open position, it shouldn’t make it difficult to lay fuel.

Masonry of brick along the perimeter of a bathhouse

A brick will help keep you warm in the bathtub for an extended period of time in addition to providing protection against potential burns. Complete the half-brick masonry and waterproof the floor. The brick will always be warm, and the floor will have enough time to dry quickly, so don’t worry that the boards will start to rot beneath it. How is masonry done?

Brickwork with metal siding

Brickwork masonry encircling a bath house

Step 1: Make a floor mark. The boiler and brick should be separated by no more than 2 ÷ 3 cm.

Step 2: Place the bricks in the bottom row on the answer. As we have mentioned previously, it is not always advisable to use a clay solution. Only use clay if the furnace’s location ensures that there will be as little hiding as possible for water laying.

Step 2: Check each row’s position and apply a dressing to the corners.

Step 3: Use a plumb line or level to constantly check the location of each row of bricks.

Step 4: Gently seal the seams. These tasks must be completed on a partially frozen solution.

Slot in the wall

You must strictly abide by fire safety regulations when installing the furnace between the bathroom’s neighboring rooms. When the installation is scheduled during the building phase, when portions of the walls are composed of non-combustible materials like brick, it is simpler. Based on the furnace’s dimensions and power, determine the opening’s size. It is imperative that the manufacturer’s installation recommendations include precise parameters. You can only adjust the indicated dimensions in an increasing direction if you wish to do so for functional or aesthetic reasons.

Averaged norms are utilized for the installation of homemade furnaces in a bathhouse:

• The minimum gap between an elongated firebox and combustible material without protection is 38 cm, optimally leave 50 cm.
• When protecting the wall of heat-insulating materials, the form of asbestos, gypsum or basalt wool, a distance of 25-36 cm is left.

Brick is placed on all sides between the metal stove and the bathroom’s wooden wall. There is air space between them; it does not fit in closely with the design. The installation instructions specify the minimum width, which is 2.5 cm. Stone wool or cardboard made of basalt is used to fill an air pillow. Connecting parts should not be present in basalt cotton wool as they will solidify into sand when heated to temperatures above 600 °C.

Take note! This is not the place for glass wool. An isolation material of this kind can tolerate temperatures of up to 350 °C; any higher than that will cause it to melt and lose its properties. Installing in the furnace bath requires the use of specific high-temperature insulators that can tolerate temperatures as high as 800-1000 °C.

The metal stove’s surrounding wall’s design, which includes a stone or brick, will guarantee the bath’s fire safety.

Installing in the furnace bath requires the use of specific high-temperature insulators that can tolerate temperatures between 800 and 1000 °C. The metal stove’s surrounding wall’s design, which includes a stone or brick, will guarantee the bath’s fire safety.

Installation guide

The layout of the stove’s equipment varies depending on the situation.

Think about the following installation options:

• The stove structure is located in the steam room;
• The housing of the furnace is located in a steam room, the firebox in the adjacent room.

Equipment is installed on the prepared base in accordance with the fire distance from the walls when the oven needs to be placed in the steam room. The case’s legs are fastened to the foundation or refractory pedestal’s base using loops that are recorded by anchors. In front of the furnace, a 50 cm by 50 cm steel sheet is placed on the ground. Next, move on to installing the chimney.

A hole in the wall the same diameter as the chimney pipe is pierced where the chimney exits the wall horizontally. Installation windows are made in the ceiling and roof if the pipes exit vertically.

There are several materials that can be used to install a chimney: brick, ceramics, and metal. Metal bath furnace manufacturers advise installing a sandwich pipe with an inner layer of thermal insulation. By following the management instructions, you can physically install a sandwich structure.

Galvanized sheets with pipe holes are fastened to the bathhouse’s attic and ceiling in order to install the chimney with the output on the roof. The lumen is used to expel smoke through a chimney pipe. The space between the ceilings is filled with fireproof material (foam glass, expanded clay, vermiculite, sand, or expanded clay) or basalt cotton wool.

The space between the two bathroom rooms is the best location for the furnace’s equipment. By placing the furnace door in a different room, you can provide unrestricted fuel access to a protected area. However, in order to enhance the airflow into the combustion chamber, you can also lower the furnace below floor level.

It is possible to create the firebox canal prepared opening inside the wall or partition. It is sufficient to create a window for a remote fuel receiver if the wall is made of brick. The opening is cut if the wall is supported by the beam.

The furnace channel’s perimeter is measured to determine the size, and then 20 to 30 centimeters are added on each side. After the wall is framed, the casing between the racks on either side must be disassembled to a height of one to one and a half meters.

The fuel receiver is positioned in the opening, the stove is fixed on the finished base, and the door leads to the adjoining room in the steam room. Brick has been laid in the area surrounding the canal. The damper ribbon and insulation are placed in the 1 centimeter space that is left between the wall and the brickwork. Refractory sealant is used to close off the area between the fuel divert and the brickwork.

Installation of a bath furnace with a remote fireplane in a bath of non -combustible material

The easiest circumstance in which A portion of the wall does not need to be replaced. On the other hand, you will have to access the wall if the steam room’s walls are made of wood. Take this casing off. The foundation—stone or concrete—does not apply to combustible materials, so the specifications of a given furnace’s remote canal determine exactly how big of a hole will be made.

A NOTE: The opening’s height and width fall between 40 and 60 centimeters (B) and 25 and 50 (w). Furthermore, if there is a base beneath the stove and it is higher than the floor, that height will also be included in this figure.

The rationale behind creating an aperture one centimeter or two larger than the actual channel’s dimensions is the expansion of metal when heated. Not only asbestos cord but also basalt wool will fit in the refractory that fills the empty space between it and the wall.

The use of wood for non-combustible wall decoration (lining, falsebrus, etc.) has already been discussed. The minimum separation required for its removal is 25 cm. However, make a half meter and don’t stop. Additionally, the height is 25 cm above the stove’s edge.

In the photo, the gang is on one edge on the shelf, the pen holds to the stove, and the distance to unprotected combustible materials should be at least half a meter. The fact that behind the stove is a sheet of metal, possibly on top of the refractor, but you need to leave the gap between the wall and the refractory (ceramic bushings for this). The value of this sheet is a bit of small – if you take the diameter of the chimney for 12 cm, then the sheet goes outside the stove up and to the side of no more than 20 cm. There would be five more). In general, the design is "on the verge". We also note that without passing through the wall, isolation can really be like that – a sheet of fireup. metal sheet and all.

The lining’s edges are sealed. Punker. Remember that the stove is located very close to the wall. The naked wall inside the steam room can be decorated with natural stone or tiles that produce a high temperature well. Plaster It is appropriate as well. Usually, the adjoining room is finished.

The advantages of the design

Installing a stove with a remote firebox is the best choice for a private bathhouse, as evidenced by an analysis of visitor reviews to profile Internet resources. This method, in the first place, enables you to make significant savings on the heating of all of your spaces while also fostering a cozy and agreeable atmosphere in each. But these are by no means the only benefits of employing the proposed design.

Extraction from the steam furnace enables:

• free up a place occupied by firewood;
• make the room cleaner;
• Increase safety.

Additionally, it makes it easier to maintain the required temperature of the air because there is no need to repeatedly enter the steam room to discard more firewood, preventing the doors from opening. Furthermore, the air inside the entire building and the oven of this design are exceptionally hot.

Also see: How to construct a pyrolypin stove by hand?

The people in the steam room do not get carbon monoxide poisoning, even if the stove is negligently closed until the fuel is completely burned. Such a heating device with a firebox can be installed on the street if the bath itself is not very big.

Such a heating device may be installed on the street and with a firebox if the bath itself is not very large.

Protective screen

Make sure a wooden bath is fire-safe and guard against burns to avoid heat screens that are separated according to their purposes:

• To soften the thermal radiation of the metal case allows its external design with bricks.
• From refractory materials prepare the protection of the adjacent walls.
• The floor is closed with the laid brick, tiles, porcelain tiles, stone or metal sheet.

The most common form of protection is brick masonry, and full-bodied ceramic is the best material to use for it. A bathhouse’s brick screen installation must adhere to specific guidelines:

• The distance between the side surfaces of the metal structure and brick protection varies within 3-10 cm.
• The lower part is necessarily equipped with holes to accelerate the heating of the steam room. If you want to adjust the temperature regime, without leaving the steam room, doors are installed on the holes or temporarily closed with brick.
• The installation of protective frame is carried out by masonry half a brick. Individual experts advise putting a brick on the rib, but then the screen thickness is excessively thin and heating goes to an accelerated pace. If you are not an adherent of high temperatures, masonry in a brick will provide comfortable finding near a bank furnace, but the steam room will be heated much longer.
• A solution of clay with sand is used to adapt bricks, sometimes cement is used instead of clay.
• The height of the brick screen when installing is always higher than the upper surface of the bath furnace.

You can use heat-resistant convection screens to shield wooden walls from a bath stove in addition to brick protection. They are made up of tiny, hollow forms akin to boxes that are surrounded by stainless steel or sheet metal and are additionally painted with a heat-resistant material. The structure below has openings to allow air to circulate and keep the metal sheets of a bath furnace from overheating.

Caution! It is not permitted to install a metal screen straight onto the wall. Strips of heat-insulating or non-combustible material with low thermal conductivity are used for these purposes.

In the first instance, the air gap that is formed between the wall and the screen lowers the possibility of a wooden structure catching fire. While there isn’t an air gap in the second option, the wall is still protected from heat by mineral basalt wool. Additionally, a few centimeters should separate each convection screen installation to allow for air flow circulation. Convection screens should not be installed directly on the floor.

Installation of a remote firebox

1. With the help of a chain saw, a hole is cut out in the wall, 26 cm larger than the protruding channel. Paul in both the steam room and in the dressing room in front of the door of the furnace chamber are covered with refractory protection, and metal sheets are laid out on top.
2. The protruding fireplace channel is set according to the level of the wall, or with the deepening. With this location there is no risk to burn on a hot door.
3. After that, it is also necessary to attach metal screens to the walls adjacent to the furnace. After completing the installation of the wall, you can decorate with non -combustible moisture -resistant finishing materials.
4. When the design is installed, the empty space between the fuel chamber and the wall must be tightly filled with materials resistant to fire.

In addition to being fire-rated, brick masonry is aesthetically pleasing and doesn’t need any extra ornamentation. Mounting foam can be used to fill in small spaces. You can choose materials that are appropriate for the interior of the room for the dressing room and steam room, and you can use basalt fiber as a cladding.

If you are not skilled in bathroom construction, you can view a video that demonstrates how to install a stove with a remote firebox.

Bath stove foundation

It is undoubtedly necessary to pour a specific foundation in order to install the stove in the bathhouse. It ought to have as its base:

• Durable;
• Even;
• Fireproof.

Asbestos-containing cardboard is positioned to meet these requirements. The sheet’s thickness can range from 1 to 1.5 cm. 5 mm steel sheets are placed. The materials utilized have to completely seal off the space beneath the stove. The protrusion (30–40 cm) outside the area is valued from all angles.

It is crucial to determine the ceilings’ strength accurately. The furnace’s mass is taken into account during calculation.

Linseed or coniferous trees are used to make ceiling pilings. Adhesive structures are deemed the best choice when the overlap reaches a length of five meters. This kind of beam can support a very heavy weight.

There are two possible types for the beam section:

• Rectangular;
• Square.

They keep their distance from each other between 3 and 12 cm.

Temporary loads are considered as well when determining the overlap strength value. Among the constant loads are:

Among the constant loads are:

• Wall pressure;
• Oven mass;
• Roof;
• Priming.

Following the installation of furniture, the installation of remote equipment, the presence of people, and other meteorological conditions, temporary loads become apparent.

Some owners fill a separate foundation, particularly for the bath. Furthermore, it’s not in vain. The stove has a separate base, which allows it to run much longer.

The device of the frame wall for installing a stove with a remote fireplane

"The bathhouse is built around the furnace," goes a wise proverb. Following this guideline, set up the protective screen and foundation before assembling the frame partition separating the pre-Bank from the steam room.

Use an antiseptic-soaked beam for the partition. Brus length is a 100 x 600 mm section measured at room height. Install two vertical pieces of wood, fastening them to the floor and ceiling with self-tapping screws and perforated corners. You must install a horizontal jumper between the two bars and secure it using the same corners.

You are left with a frame that resembles the letter n. A heater and sheathing will be situated on top of the brickwork and derived fuel channel that are situated between the bars.

Try using 100 mm thick basalt wool.

Put the slabs in place in between the bars. For the lining installation, bind the crate’s horizontal slides with a 20 mm thickness. The foil vapor barrier is fastened to the frame wall on both sides using building staplers. Coordination of the upper portion of the wall on both sides is achieved by covering the lining or using nails (vertical installation is meant).

Support and securing the lining

Speaking of which, If the brickwork is floor to ceiling, you can skip installing a jumper, insulation, and lining.

The fuel channel and the brickwork should be separated by 3–4 cm. Brick cannot be placed straight onto a steel channel. The brick and the beam need to be spaced the same amount apart.

Tool for the pantry

We’ll use a mixture of cement, chamotte clay, and sand for masonry:

• For one day we soak 2 parts of sand and 5 parts of clay in water;
• After 24 hours, add 1 part of the cement, mix.

Soak in water prior to applying brick. Dress and level the masonry to drive it.

Brick masonry types

Use a grinder to cut a brick if needed. Steel corners are the most practical way to finish the floor (their shelves will be brick-based).

Use a steel square bar or factory plastic device so that the seams are neat and the masonry is visible from both sides.

Illustration of brickwork

Remember to get the seams after the masonry.

The plan for installing the stove. Brick entryway. Suggested separations

There has been masonry. As soon as possible, the furnace was installed to make work easier.

The photo shows the installed furnace door and the laid brick portal. There are visible spaces between the brick and the wood that are not yet insulated.

The image illustrates the brick lining that runs between the log house’s wall and the counter—a vertical beam that also functions as a door box.

Brick-worked portal

After the masonry is finished, fill in the specifically designated cracks with pieces of minerite or basalt cardboard. In any case, avoid using foam or glass wool for these purposes.

The image depicts a heater encircling some brickwork.

The installation of platbands, which will conceal the insulation between the brick and wood, is the most recent action. All that is required is a 45-degree cut to the platbands, which should be confused with the finish cloves to the beam from the sideban.

An illustration of a unique finish

Once the construction and finishing work is finished, the furnace is installed and its alignment and rehabilitation are completed. However, if a brick screen is built around the furnace in addition to the portal, the appliance is placed there right away and covered with a film to prevent staining from the solution while in use.

Installation of a remote fireplane stove

Constructing a restroom in a regular location

Picture of the stove and brick portal. Some experts advise building brick walls first, and only then using lining to coat the walls.

Video – installation of partitions and installation of the furnace

Video – Burning of the Teklair stove with brick

Brick -erection

Since the brick walls of these furnaces are a dependable fire barrier and do not degrade at high temperatures, the regulatory requirements for them are not overly onerous. Nevertheless, the furnaces must be installed at least 260 mm away from the closest combustible structure. This specification covers the chimney pipes as well as the furnace’s body.

Vital. When the thickness of the furnace wall is 120 mm, or half a brick, and the wooden wall is not fire-rated, the designated opening is pertinent.

The width of the opening can be decreased to 200 mm if the wood structure is shielded by an asbestos cardboard sheet that is 8 mm thick and is covered by a metal sheet (p. 6.6.23 SNiP) (Appendix K).

There are additional installation guidelines in addition to adhering to this distance:

At least 140 mm rises from the wooden floor to the ashinus, and 210 mm rises to the base of the internal gas engine (p. 6.6.24 SNiP);

A 500 x 700 mm metal sheet should be used to cover the floors from the combustible material in front of the furnace door (p. 6.6.23 SNiP).

It is not permitted to have hard joints between the chimney or furnace body and any building structures.

Installation of a metal furnace with a remote firebox in a log house

Take into consideration the possibility of building an anti-fire, LV minerite wall. The installation in the log house will be possible thanks to a unique fastening technique, and the fasteners’ floating structure will prevent the hard wall from distorting until it shrinks.

Step 1: Get the wall opening ready. Sip it while holding a chainsaw in marker.

Step 2: Mineritis sheaths the inner surface of the opening. We observed a minerite sheet divided into three sections. At a rate equal to the height of the opening minus 10 cm, two vertical pieces are cut out. We made a cut in the horizontal portion that was equal to the opening’s width minus two centimeters. The thickness of the wood or log used to construct the bath wall should match the width of the minerite segment.

Step 3: Miner is placed after the net on the inner side of the foil’s perimeter. A fixirum with vertical segments of nails first, then horizontal.

Step 4: To shield the wall from the heat from the stove, a hole must be cut in the minerite sheets. Through this opening will pass a removal furnace firebox. We measure the remote firebox, mark the location with a pencil, and cut the sheet so that the distance between the sheet and the remote channel is 3 cm on each side.

Mineritis and foil installation. Finishing the opening can be done both before and after the primary refractory material slabs are installed.

Alternately, we could attach the leaf to the wall first, then make the necessary cut for the remote fireplace.

Mount minewrites on the wall

Since the sheet is fixed, the opening can be cut.

Step 5: Drill oval holes in the sheet for screws. The sheet won’t move when there is shrinkage; instead, the screws will move downward inside these holes. We attach foil insulation (stapler) to the wall and then mount the sheet from the steam room’s side using self-tapping screws and a puck leaf of minerite.

Step 6: A 3-cm air gap is used to attach the second layer of minerite. You will need to buy a mounting set with steel or ceramic bushings in order to accomplish this.

Oval holes must be drilled once more, but we also need to make sure that the fasteners on the first and second sheets don’t come to a single point.

The installation plan for a minerite protective screen is depicted in the picture. Sheathing with two layers. If the furnace has a remote firebox, open it as directed by the manufacturer.

For a more aesthetically pleasing result, we cut the ends under 45 degrees when joining two sheets at a 90-degree angle.

We install the stove on the base following the sheet installation. To ensure that the remote channel is precisely in the center, we adjust the legs. We place a foil-covered piece of basalt wool firmly between the minerite and the walls of the isolated canal. The foil ought to "look" in the direction of the canal’s steel walls.

Adviсe

Different techniques are used by masters to protect the walls and mount furnaces. For instance, it will be more practical to install a minerite on a wood crate in a bank of logs. Drill screw holes, drive 50×50 mm antisepting bars, and precisely align the crate’s racks vertically. Minerite self-tapping screws will already be used to secure this crate.

It is worthwhile to work in the following order if you intend to finish the portal on the outside with brick and close the wall with a minerite for additional finishing, such as a coiner from the inside (from the side of the steam room):

• From the side of the steam room, fix the minerite sheet;
• Cut the hole under the remote channel;
• Fix the horizontal guides from the profile for drywall. Fix the strips with self -tapping screws at the top of the opening, along below and precisely above the opening for the fuel channel;
• Install the vertical racks of the crate from the profile, fix with screws through the shelves;
• Take the basalt cotton wool and lay it between the racks of the crate;
• sew the opening with a minerite (from the side of the dressing room);
• Install the stove in your place;
• Now, from the sideburn side, lay the opening with brick (do not forget to lay the insulation in the cracks), and from the side of the steam room, carry out a decorative finish with a stone.

Insulation and chatter

The view from the dressing roomand steam room

Furnace’s fixed portal

Walls and chimney following the completion of a serpentine

The furnace’s actual completion process

This is not the conclusion of the stove installation process. Make sure to mount the chimney in compliance with fire safety regulations, install the heat exchanger and water tank if specified in the design, and prepare and install the net.

Video – installation of a furnace in a bathhouse with a remote firebox, fire wall

Installation of a stove with a remote fireplane

Steel stoves are the most appropriate for completed bathrooms because they can be mounted more quickly and easily than brick stoves. It’s true that operating a remote fireplace requires some tweaking and meeting fire regulations.

This time, it’s important to remember that the majority of manufacturers provide technical documentation with their products, which includes drawings that show the installation scheme:

Note: The manufacturer’s installation schemes do not conflict with the most recent standards. Furthermore, n. 6.6.19 SNiP explicitly mandates that factories that manufacture products adhere to the schemes attached to them. If the manufacturer’s documentation contains no indications, all you have to do to install it is adhere to the previously mentioned NNUP standards for brick furnace construction.

One of the primary benefits of metal heaters is their light weight, which eliminates the need for a foundation in the majority of situations. The stove is set up on a wooden floor, assuming the wooden lags have enough strength to support the weight. However, to confirm that the foundation is not required, do a quick calculation by adding up the unit’s weight when the firewood and water tank are fully loaded. The total weight should not exceed 700 kg; if it does, the foundation device will be required.

Suggestions. Typically, a sandwich of the modular type is fastened to the iron stove, which is fixed to the building’s structural elements and does not burden the heater with its weight. It is therefore not necessary to consider its mass.

The installation site must be chosen first, taking into consideration all standardized indentation, in order to properly install the furnace in the steam room. After that, a wooden wall opening is cut, and it should extend 260 mm beyond the furnace’s protruding channel.

Usually, the opening is done with a chain saw. Subsequently, asbestos cardboard is placed on the wooden floor at the furnace installation site, followed by a metal sheet. There will be a furnace door in the dressing room, so the same procedure is repeated there.

Similar to how the walls next to the bath stove are protected from fire, fireless finishing materials can elevate them. The installation of a metal furnace and the sandwich chimney installation are the next steps in the process. As seen in the picture, non-combustible materials, like brick, are used to fill the space between the wooden partition and the remote firebox:

Additionally, the opening can be lined with a prefabric with an appropriate material for the interior and filled with basalt fiber for a separate steam room. In order to install a chimney, a hole must be made in the overlap while accounting for the 260 mm normalized retreat. Alternatively, the completed passage node may be typed from individual elements in accordance with the scheme:

Should the roofing material be combustible (such as asphalt tiles), then in compliance with the 6.6.15 SNiP A sparking of metal mesh should be installed at the chimney’s end.

Note: The same guidelines apply when installing a furnace without a remote firebox, with the exception of the lumen device located between the dressing room and the steam room.

Fourth stage installation of a hinged tank

One can select a hinged type of tank. You can use the following formula to determine its volume: Ten liters on average will be needed for one user; the same goes for shooting a broom.

The furnace air duct’s nozzle is where installation is done. Because of this design, you can raise the water’s temperature to 95 °C until the steam room’s temperature reaches 100 °C outside.

Unwanted boiling and steam penetration into steam can be avoided as a result of the water’s decreasing area of contact with the hot surfaces of the hinged tank pipe during the flow of water. Usually, when the furnace operates in temperature support modes, this occurs.

Go back to the content

Everything you need to know about installing a metal furnace in your sauna is covered in the article "Installation of a Metal Furnace in the Bath: Basic Rules and Features." A safe and effective installation depends on your grasp of the basic guidelines and features, regardless of your experience level with do-it-yourself projects. Our goal is to help you create a safe, comfortable, and enjoyable sauna experience. We will guide you through every step of the process, from choosing the best location for your furnace to making sure you have enough ventilation and maintenance. Now let’s get started and examine the main elements of setting up a metal furnace in your bathhouse.

Installation

Although there are few steps involved in the installation process, there are some rules that must be followed.

Counseling! Installing the foundation is necessary for a bathhouse installation to be done correctly. As we’ve already mentioned, the steel structure’s modest weight eliminates the need for a substantial foundation—unlike its brick counterpart—but some planning will be necessary.

For convenience, installation instructions for the furnace will be provided in the form of a step-by-step manual.

1. In the place selected for installation, dismantle the floor on the area, the same in shape with the bottom of the furnace, but 10 – 15 cm wider in each direction;
2. We dig up the flooring to a depth of 50 cm, tamp the bottom of the pit and fill up with a thin layer of crushed stone and sand;

Take out the soil and the pouring.

1. We lay on the bottom and walls a double layer of polyethylene film for waterproofing the plate;
2. We cut out a frame from the road grid, 5 cm smaller in width than a hole and lay it on stands of reinforcement pieces of reinforcement, tied to a grid with a knitting wire. You can use welding;

We install the reinforcement and the film.

1. Pour the pit to the level of spit with concrete or higher, and with the help of a vibration -cutter we align its surface. You can use a small formwork to raise the level of the plate. We check the horizontalness with the level;

Fill the hole with concrete. You can raise the plate’s level and create even edges by constructing the formwork from above using the boards.

1. After hardening the plate, cover its surface with a double layer of roofing material and lay out with chamotis brick one or two layers on the shape of the surface of the plate so that the base level is at the level of the floor. Sometimes the basis is raised above the floor by 5 – 10 cm;

The schematic of the completed foundation.

1. After grasping and solidifying brickwork, we install the stove as it was provided for by the project;

1. In the wall, we mount an adapter in the form of a sandwich pipe with welded plates, which close the wall near the chimney;
2. We weld a chimney to the adapter;
3. From the side of the street we weld the second part of the pipe and cover it with a special nozzle so that precipitation and garbage do not fall into the lumen;

We install a chimney in the roadway.

1. On three sides, we cover the plate with fire -resistant bricks, can be facing; We cover the stove with brick.

1. We fill the tank with water, in prepared cobblestones and produce the first furnace;

We fabricate a test furnace for the apparatus.

1. We ensure that there are no smoke leaks from the welding and joints, as well as water leaks from the tank to the firebox or on stones, leaks of cranes, if any.

Crucial! Because it involves not just property but also human life, the experienced master in charge of the stove or fire inspector should oversee the accuracy of the installation of fire-hazardous areas.

How to prepare the base

Do you need a foundation

Everything is dependent upon the floor’s bearing capacity and the heat generator’s mass. Seven hundred kilograms is regarded as the critical threshold. The weight of the assembled device is considered, as well as the weight of a chimney, a brick screen, and a water and stone tank. The foundation is rarely needed for metal products, but it is required for brick furnaces with stone chimneys.

Steel heel installation plan

Typically, reinforcement is used to create a concrete foundation. Although it can be a pile or a strip, a monolithic cabinet is typically built to be slightly bigger than the heat generator’s surface area. Based on geological and climatic factors, the depth of the occurrence and the percentage of reinforcement are selected. In any event, there should be a sand-filled space of several centimeters between the furnace and bathhouse foundations; they shouldn’t be bandaged together.

Features of installation on a wooden floor

Installing the oven in the bathhouse directly to the ceiling is possible if the floors are constructed with reliability and the heat generator’s weight is manageable. The board floor will need to be protected from high temperatures even though the heating device does not produce as much heat as the area above and below it does. A heat-resistant base is made out of the appropriate materials for this. Utilize a basalt cardboard insulating layer and top coat from:

• metal sheet,
• ceramic tiles,
• panels from various types of natural and artificial stone.

The so-called "podium" is frequently extracted from bricks. Its height seldom rises above 200 mm, and it is typically a level platform with a ¼-brick "bed" lining it. This situation does not require a shadow or refractory solution; a full-bodied private material will work just fine.

A brick was used to construct a platform with a wooden floor and a heat screen close to the walls.

Installing an iron furnace in a wooden bath when you need a foundation and how to make it

You need not worry if the floor of your bathhouse is concrete. The stove can be installed without a base. even if it’s only on concrete. However, if you install ceramic tiles—that is, the same brick or porcelain tile—removal will be easier.

If the base is made of non-flammable wood. In the event that the furnace’s total mass, including all "additives," is less than 700 kg, building an additional foundation is not required. Even the heaviest metal stoves—aside from cast iron, of course—usually weigh less. However, if you plan to overlap it and/or build a brick chimney, a foundation will probably be required.

Installing a stove on a wooden floor requires the use of a non-combustible base.

The total mass of the furnace, including all "additives," is taken into account to represent all potential additions. Compute the weight of the furnace plus an excessive amount of stones and water in the tank, as well as the weight of the chimney and screen (multiply the number of bricks in each row by the total number of rows), then add the mass of the solution. You can get by with decent lags and a thick board on the floor if the total weight is less than 700 kg. In the event that the mass decreased, the foundation must be built.

The foundation’s measurements ought to be fifteen to twenty centimeters larger than those of the furnace or screen. Both the foundation and the building’s foundation have the same depth. Make sure the furnace base is incoherent if it is close to a load-bearing wall; there shouldn’t be any points where it comes into contact with the building’s foundation. This is done in order to allow for the furnace and building to potentially precipitate independently. The furnace foundation is built 20 cm below the last floor’s level (two rows of bricks are then laid on top, flushing the level with the board).

The stove’s base

The formwork is installed, the foundation is the foundation, and the manufacturing technology is standard. It is strengthened by the addition of reinforcing mesh, which is poured in after the concrete mixture. One part cement to three parts sand is the mixture that is used. A double layer of waterproofing—either roofing material or another material with comparable properties—is applied to the concrete once it has become noticeable. Two rows of bricks are placed on top of the solution. The furnace’s (and the screen’s) foundation is now ready.

Installation of an iron stove

You will find instructions for installing the designated device in this section. It will teach you the proper way to install an iron stove in a bathhouse while adhering to all safety precautions.

Preparation

It is essential to prepare in some way for this process before beginning the task.

Counseling! Since installing the furnace necessitates placing the stoves in the steam room, it is imperative to ensure that the environment is conducive to this kind of operation.

This partial dismantling slightly violates the shape of the dividing partition. Such adjustments are made to prevent carbon monoxide from building up in the steam room and to guarantee that the pre-Bannik is heated.

Counseling! Regardless of the kind of material used to construct the bath itself, we must not overlook the fact that building the foundation for the heat unit is also necessary.

Installation process

1. The installation of an iron furnace in the bathhouse should be carried out exclusively by those persons who have appropriate knowledge and skills. If you are going to install with your own hands, you must have a certain experience. Otherwise, it will be advisable to attract professionals to the process.
2. Even having experience working with these equipment, you should carefully study the instructions that the manufacturer provides. The introduction of any adjustments to the design, as well as to the installation parameters, is strictly prohibited.

Once the stove is fully prepared for installation, design modifications are not permitted!

1. The installation of an iron furnace in a wooden bath or in construction from any other building material involves the mandatory presence of ventilation. The specified element is mounted in the same room as the firebox, placed at a distance of one meter from it.

Any room that has a stove needs to have ventilation.

1. The chimney is displayed through ceiling ceilings. In order to ensure better heat conservation, special sandwich dizmens are sometimes used in the room, the height of which should not exceed five meters.

Poster exit via the bathroom ceiling.

Sandvich chimney with refractory laying.

1. As already mentioned above, the installation itself requires the preparation of the foundation. Asbest is creeping on top of the concrete platform, which performs the function of the insulator. A steel sheet is laid on the specified element.

The Bath Foundation foundation’s asbestos thermal insulation

This design can have brickwork added to it to provide more dependable thermal insulation. On top is an iron stove installed.

In order to lessen the chance of getting burned, the brick structure itself should be enforced. These activities are typically individual and not required.

Brick-lined bath stove

1. A very important stage, finishing the entire process, is the conduct of testing work regarding the installed heat unit. This operation involves loading firewood into the corresponding compartment of the furnace with their subsequent settings. In this case, it is necessary to monitor the temperature in order to fix its maximum value.

In addition to the actions outlined, a visual assessment of the property’s smoke-free status should be done. The level of heating on the horizontal and vertical surfaces that are closest to the furnace must also be assessed.

It is important to remember that iron stoves have advantages as well as disadvantages. Since they are directly related to the installation, they should also be studied.

A metal furnace installed in your bathroom will ensure effective heating and greatly improve your bathing experience. You can maximize the benefits of this heating solution by following some simple guidelines and being aware of some important features.

First and foremost, it’s imperative that you choose the ideal site for your metal furnace. Make sure there is enough ventilation to let in enough air and prevent smoke buildup. Think about accessibility for maintenance and closeness to fuel sources as well.

Pay close attention to the manufacturer’s instructions when installing the furnace. In addition to ensuring peak performance, proper installation reduces safety hazards. In case you’re uncertain, seeking advice from an expert can offer comfort and ensure a safe configuration.

Your metal furnace’s longevity and effectiveness depend on routine maintenance. To maintain adequate ventilation and avoid blockages, clean the chimney on a regular basis. Additionally, look for any wear or damage on the furnace. Take quick action to fix any problems to avoid expensive repairs.

Lastly, keep in mind to use caution when using the furnace. Observe safety precautions, such as using the proper fuel and keeping a careful eye on the temperature. You can continue to benefit from your metal furnace’s warmth and comfort for many years to come by putting safety and upkeep first.

Video on the topic

What is important to know about the foundation under the stove in the bathhouse. Basic materials!

Correct mistakes in my bath! Portal and base under the stove. Alterations are coming!

How to make a bath oven with a brick portal

Safe base for a stove in a bathhouse and a house in 10 minutes. Life hack for fast stove installation.

Installation of a furnace in a bathhouse with a remote firebox, fire wall. #Part 4