How you can make a phytoboque with your own hands?

There’s more to making a home comfortable and energy-efficient than just bumping up the thermostat or adding insulation. Creating a phytowall, sometimes referred to as a phytoboque, is one creative technique that is becoming more and more popular among homeowners. This environmentally friendly solution offers both practical insulation qualities and the aesthetic appeal of plants.

A phytoboque, which consists of different plant species arranged in a vertical garden, essentially serves as a living wall. It improves your home’s aesthetic appeal and acts as a natural insulator, lowering energy consumption and assisting in the regulation of indoor temperatures all year round.

Constructing a DIY phytoboque is a fulfilling project that lets you enhance the aesthetics of your house and enjoy better insulation and air quality. You can add a sustainable and environmentally friendly feature to your living area by choosing the appropriate plants and building materials.

However, what is the precise process for building a phytoboque? We’ll take you step-by-step through the entire process in this guide, from selecting the ideal spot and supplies to creating and caring for your vertical garden. Whether you’re a novice do-it-yourselfer or an experienced gardener, making a phytoboque is a doable project that can completely change the appearance and atmosphere of your house.

Design features and principle of operation

The design consists of a closed wooden cabin, or font, that has a steam supply that is hot and infused with the scent of healing herbs. During the process in the phytobox, the vessels of the steamer head are not exposed to high temperature loads like they are in the sauna:

• the upper panel of the font has a special hole for the head, the inner space is equipped with a seat;
• During steam procedures, the person sits on the bench with the head above the level of the lid;
• in order to ensure maximum tightness for preservation of phytoparam inside the mini sauna, the gap between the neck of the steamer and the perimeter of the opening on the panel is tightly sealed with a towel.

The apparatus phytoboque and its working principle:

• The body is equipped with a vertical door so that a person can easily get inside the structure;
• the hinged top panel – the lid – can be partially or fully opened and has a head opening;
• internal equipment consists of a comfortable seat with height adjustment, footrest and armrests;
• the bottom part of the body is equipped with a vapor distribution system;
• condensate drainage system is provided in the design.

A steam generator serves as a functional component of a personal aroma sauna, offering a controlled steam supply within the enclosure. Within the phytobox, specific apertures located at the base of the structure distribute heated streams that are saturated with aromatic compounds.

The idea behind using phytobochka is to use hot steam for therapeutic and cosmetic effects on the body. A small sauna using therapeutic herbs and essential oils can boost immunity, get rid of chronic fatigue syndrome, and keep tissues from stagnating.

manufacturing methods

Priority species for phytobox construction are cedar. There are also less expensive options, such as larch, pine, and lime.

Solid

The process entails using an entire tree to create a miniature sauna. Only the uppermost portion of the rock—which symbolizes the lowermost portion of the trunk—is utilized in this instance. From a single tree, only one barrel is carved. The technique was widely employed in the past. Cedar barrels were entirely carved by masters from wood; only very large species with thick trunks that were at least 500 years old were selected for this use.

Chopped

This method involves using logs to create rivets that are dimensioned to perfection. Barrels are chopped using antiquated technology. The labor-intensive procedure involves hand-processing the wood to preserve its fiber structure, and hoops are used to secure the frame.

cooperage

Using this technique, you can construct decks of the highest caliber without using glue, nails, or self-tapping screws. Although Bondar products frequently have an unattractive appearance, they are robust and long-lasting. The cooperage method of making barrels involves planing cedar boards and binding the frame together with hoops.

Carpentry

Tongue and groove joints and fasteners are used in the process to create phytobochkas. Produce items both with and without glue.

Based on phytobochka shape, these are:

• round
• oval;
• square;
• rectangular;
• trapezoidal.

Make models of both horizontal and vertical cedar barrels. Though there are some two-seater models as well, mini saunas are typically made to resemble single cabins.

Fytobochka with their own hands from improvised means

When deciding how to make a phytoboque by hand, it’s important to keep in mind that cedar has a strong aroma and a high coefficient of beneficial properties. Cedar planks are preferred for creating phytoboque baths because of these features. Pine, larch, or basswood can be used if needed; the wood is impregnated with cedar oil for maximum impact.

Tools and materials

In order to create a phytoboque by hand, you will require the following supplies:

• tongue-and-groove board width of 44 mm and 35 mm – 0.2 m³ and 0.4 m³ respectively;
• 70×25 strapping board – 7 m;
• 50×50 timber – 10 m;
• metal strip to strengthen the frame – 3 m;
• carpenter"s glue, sealant;
• hinges, self-tapping screws, handles with wooden overlay.

A collection of equipment and devices required for the task:

• lathing machine on wood;
• circular saw;
• screwdriver;
• electric jigsaw;
• a bolgar with a disk for sanding;
• hatchet;
• sandpaper;
• leveler, tape measure, marker.

It is important to keep in mind that the steam generator, thermoregulator, steam distribution system, and thermometer that come with the cedar barrel for phytoprocedures.

Stages of barrel manufacturing

Work is done using pre-made schemes, but you can also create your own drawing of the phytoboque by considering its unique operating characteristics.

1. It is necessary to cut blanks from the board thickness of 35 mm for the back wall and sides of the cabin height of 1.2 m. For the front wall you will need boards 0.5 m high. Blanks are made taking into account that the width of the side boards is 78 cm, rear and front boards – 83 cm. In this case, laths are used as a connecting link. On average, about 30 pcs will be needed. blanks together with spare.
2. Knock out grooves with a thickness of 10 mm and a depth of 3 cm, while the side blanks – only from one side.
3. Cut laths with parameters 10x50X1200 mm about 30 pcs. together with the spare ones.
4. Then you need to assemble 4 boards, and the laths are inserted into the grooves with a 2 cm deepening. There is a gap of 1 cm for expansion and contraction of the wooden texture under the influence of humidity and temperature conditions. It is convenient to fit the shield elements to each other with a hatchet.
5. To make the floor of the cabin, a clean board with a thickness of at least 40 mm is suitable. The parameters of the bottom are 83×78 cm. The outer surface on the sides is made out with a bar 50x65x780 mm to strengthen the bottom shield and as a leg of the body. Another 35×50 bar is fixed diagonally. Next, a small drain is made along the perimeter of the bottom to drain condensate.
6. Wall boards are installed on the finished cabin bottom, the structure is tied with a board from below, as well as the upper perimeter.
7. The upper panel of the cabin is made of a 35 mm thick board. It is necessary to assemble the panel in accordance with the dimensions of the bottom, taking into account the thickness of the walls and tie it with elements with the given parameters based on the drawing. Next, a round hole for the head Ø25 cm is cut out.
8. It is necessary to turn the panel over, make a marking and make a 35 mm deep cut with a circular saw, which starts about halfway through the strapping – the 70th board. This will make it possible to build an airtight lid.
9. To make a height-adjustable seat inside the cabin, you only need to fix bars in several tiers on the side panels.
10. Then it is necessary to build a wooden grate – footrest, armrests, headrest.

Carpenter’s glue is used to join the boards to form the phytobox door. The product should be rolled through a 35-mm-wide planer once the fixing compound has dried. Two laths and two crossbars form the finished panel’s perimeter.

Making a steam generator

Supplies and equipment required to assemble a steam generator for phytobochka by hand:

• plastic canister with a volume of 10 liters;
• flexible metal hose – 2 m;
• metal plastic pipe
• heating elements;
• tee fitting;
• thermometer;
• flange;
• duct tape, sealant;
• electric drill.

1. Inside the canister, the heating elements are mounted, terminals are connected to the wire, insulation is carefully made.
2. The flange is installed on the canister, connected to the hose.
3. On the metal-plastic pipe holes are drilled for steam distribution, mounted in the cedar barrel.
4. Pipe is connected with a hose.

It should be noted that both functional features and operating safety are lacking in homemade steam generators compared to commercial models.

Building a DIY phytowall can benefit the aesthetics of your house as well as the environment. Incorporating plants into your interior design not only improves the aesthetic appeal but also creates a healthier living space and better air quality.

Choosing the appropriate plants is one of the first steps in creating a phytowall. Choose plants that do well indoors and don’t need much care. Herbs such as mint, basil, or thyme are great options because they are visually appealing and a great source of fresh ingredients for cooking.

Reclaimed wood or recycled plastic are two sustainable materials to think about when building your phytowall’s framework. This gives your project more personality while also lessening its environmental impact. Verify that the building is strong enough to hold the weight of the plants and any extra irrigation equipment.

An effective irrigation system is necessary to keep your phytowall healthy. There are two types of systems available: an active system with pumps and tubing for automated watering, or a passive system where water is absorbed from a reservoir at the base. Whichever approach you decide on, make sure it’s effective and won’t erode your walls with water.

And lastly, remember to maintain. Check your plants frequently for symptoms of distress, such as wilting or discoloration, and make the necessary adjustments to lighting or watering. As necessary, prune and trim to promote healthy growth and avoid crowding. Your DIY phytowall can become a colorful focal point in your house for many years to come with the right maintenance.

Transforming your home into an energy-efficient haven involves two key players: heating and insulation. These dynamic duo elements work hand in hand to keep your space cozy while slashing those pesky energy bills. Heating systems come in various forms, from traditional furnaces to modern heat pumps, each with its pros and cons. Pairing the right system with adequate insulation is crucial for maintaining a comfortable indoor temperature and minimizing heat loss. Whether you opt for fiberglass batts, spray foam, or cellulose, proper insulation creates a thermal barrier, trapping warmth inside during chilly months and keeping scorching heat at bay in the summer. By investing in high-quality heating systems and effective insulation, you not only reduce your environmental footprint but also enjoy year-round comfort without breaking the bank.

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