How to weld a chimney stove yourself

Comfort and wellbeing during the winter months depend on keeping your house warm and inviting. Installing a chimney stove, a traditional heating option that not only provides warmth but also gives your living area a rustic charm, is one efficient way to accomplish this. Although it is possible to hire an expert to install a chimney stove, more and more homeowners are choosing to take matters into their own hands and complete the task on their own. You’re in the right place if you’re thinking about installing your chimney stove on your own.

It could seem like a difficult undertaking to weld a chimney stove yourself, particularly if you have no prior welding or construction experience. However, motivated do-it-yourselfers can successfully complete the project with the correct guidance and preparation. You can design a heating system that is both practical and aesthetically beautiful for your house by taking the time to comprehend the procedure and observing safety measures.

It is essential to have a well-defined plan in place prior to beginning the welding process. This involves deciding where to put your chimney stove, taking into account things like accessibility for maintenance, distance from combustible materials, and ventilation needs. You also need to decide on the kind and size of stove that will best meet your heating requirements while staying within your means.

After deciding on a good spot and stove model, it’s time to get the supplies and equipment needed for the welding process. You might need metal sheets, pipes, a welding machine, safety equipment like goggles and gloves, and any extra parts needed for installation, like chimney flues and connectors, depending on the design of your chimney stove.

Step	Description
Gather Materials	Collect all necessary tools and materials including a welding machine, metal sheets, grinder, welding gloves, and safety goggles.
Prepare Work Area	Clean the area where you"ll be working, ensuring there are no flammable materials nearby. Set up your welding machine and make sure you have proper ventilation.
Measure and Cut	Measure the dimensions for your chimney stove and mark them on the metal sheets. Use a grinder to cut the sheets according to your measurements.
Assemble Components	Fit the cut metal sheets together to form the body of the chimney stove. Use clamps to hold them in place while welding.
Weld Seams	Start welding the seams of the metal sheets together. Make sure your welds are strong and secure to prevent any leaks or weaknesses.
Attach Flue Pipe	Once the body of the chimney stove is welded together, attach the flue pipe to the appropriate opening. Ensure a tight seal to prevent any smoke leakage.
Test for Leaks	After welding is complete, test the chimney stove for any leaks by lighting a small fire inside. Check for any smoke escaping from the seams or joints.
Paint or Finish	Once everything is securely welded and tested, you can paint or finish the chimney stove according to your preference.

Advantages of the bunsen stove

Heating a small room is ideal for this kind of construction. It can be used to heat a greenhouse, shed, garage, or dacha. In a new building, this device can also be used to provide temporary heating until a more sophisticated heating system is developed. This stove’s design is straightforward. It is made up of a chimney, an under-blower, a firebox with a grate, and a grate grate.

Diagram of the wall-mounted and roof-mounted chimney output.

Any room where the chimney can be led outside can have the device installed. Because of its compactness, it occupies little space. It won’t take long to reach the required temperature because the stove can warm up rapidly. It is simple enough to assemble with your hands thanks to its straightforward design. You can also carve out a space in the device to mount dishes. In this scenario, cooking or heating water can be done on the stove.

The device’s primary drawback is how quickly it cools down. That means that constant stoking will be required to keep the temperature stable. Nevertheless, by laying brick and putting in a multi-level firebox system, it is possible to set up the environment for a prolonged heat output.

This kind of stove is available in stores pre-assembled. You could, however, make it yourself. Materials ought to be selected with availability in mind.

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How to build a stove from a cylinder?

If an extra cylinder is needed, it can be used to construct a compact stove-bourgeoisie. Furthermore, it will be imperative to get ready the following components:

• metal corners;
• grid;
• door;
• chimney pipe;
• sheet of metal;
• hammer.

Using a hammer, hollow out or unscrew the upper rim of the faucet. The next step is to pour liquid into the container and hollow out the upper portion of the structure. The size of the opening and the door must match. It is necessary to weld the frame at an angle before joining it to the cylinder. Bolt recesses need to be made in the door and the frame. The door is then installed after that.

The grate recess needs to be cut out at the next stage, where the lower portion of the burzhuyka will be located. The element and vessel are then fused together. It will be necessary to weld metal strip walls to the prepared piece from multiple angles. A box without a top will be the end product. It needs to be securely welded to the door’s open portion in order for the construction to be free of ash.

Additionally, the legs must be welded to the vessel in order to guarantee the structure’s horizontal orientation. You have to make a tube recess on the other side of the door. In order to slow down the rate at which heat escapes, an elbow chimney is then installed.

An additional use for this scheme is to turn a 40-liter milk canister into a stove.

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How to make a burzhuyku from steel?

A Burzhuyka convection stove.

You should definitely be able to weld your own sheet steel bourjouka if you need to cook and heat a cottage in the country. Not a lot of gasoline will be needed for this design. This is accomplished by building firebox partitions, securing the doors firmly, and allowing for air flow adjustment. You will need to gather the following materials in order to assemble such a device by hand:

• metal sheet with a thickness of 4 mm or more;
• Metal with a thickness of 8-12 mm, from which the partitions will be made;
• grate;
• chimney pipe;
• Angles, from which the legs will be built;
• welding device.

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Sequence of actions for manufacturing

The components for the body and a few partitions that will be installed in the upper section of the furnace must first be cut out of the steel sheet. The stove’s efficiency will rise because they can create a labyrinth for the smoke. The upper portion of the ash pan can be modified to accommodate a recess for the chimney structure. One hundred millimeters is the recommended recess diameter. Next, a 140 mm-diameter recess will need to be made for the cooking surface.

Steel sheet used to make Burzhuyka stoves.

The side elements must be fastened to the bottom of the construction using a welding device. It will be necessary to fasten thick metal strips to the side walls. Thus, the grate of the grate grate will be able to be attached. It could be a metal sheet with about 20 mm-diameter recesses in it. Reinforcing bars can be used to create the grate. Subsequently, the side walls should have metal strip support elements attached to them. Partition installation is then completed.

Metal should be cut to fit the firebox and ash pan doors. Typical hinges can be used to mount them. Nonetheless, using curtains composed of steel pipes and bars is a more dependable choice. Wedge latches can be used to secure them. After cutting the components out of a sheet of stainless steel, they are bolted together. You must create a recess for mounting a damper on the door that closes the ash pan in order to be able to adjust the intensity of fuel combustion.

The pipe must be mounted on a 200 mm high sleeve that is attached to the chimney construction recess. The tube’s flap will aid in retaining the heat. It will require cutting a circle out of a sheet of metal. The steel bar needs to have one edge bent. Following that, the tube needs to have multiple parallel holes made in it. After mounting a bar, a circular flap is welded to it.

Diagram illustrating the brick fence system for a bourzhuika.

Installing the chimney pipe at a 45-degree angle is recommended. If the part is going to pass through a wall recess, it should be covered with fiberglass and fixed with a cement mixture.

You must erect a steel protection screen on multiple sides and position it 50 mm away from the hot stove to prevent burns from occurring. Brick can be used to cover the construction in order to raise the heat output coefficient. The brick will continue to heat the house for a while after the furnace is finished. The masonry work needs to be done 12 cm away from the metal body.

The air cushion may transform into a heat barrier.

It requires the creation of ventilation holes in the masonry at both the top and bottom in order for it to be realized.

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Nuances that should be taken into account when installing the screen

Air circulation occurs as a result of the heated air within the screen. The metal stove’s walls will cool from the warm air entering the space and the cold air circulating around them will keep the walls from burning too quickly.

The stove’s brick lining may occasionally be constructed in a staggered pattern or without any gaps. It ought to be acknowledged that this technology is flawed. If there isn’t a gap, the room won’t heat up quickly and more heat from the furnace will fly into the tube. The area of the brickwork is significantly smaller than that of the solid one, and the checkerboard arrangement will impede complete air circulation. There will be a swift cooling as a result.

Half of the heat energy from the stove will be lost because heat radiation will pass through the screen like it would through a sieve. The space will rapidly become colder.

One way to cut down on fuel use is to build a stove with smoke turns. Installing doors, which control the draft, is another way to cut down on usage.

This leads us to the conclusion that the stove-burzhuyka can be operated without using excessive fuel. If all goes as planned, the design will be economical. A small room can be heated by the Burzhuyka alone, without the use of any additional appliances.

How to make a burzhuika stove in the garage on wood and waste oil

You need to set up the most basic heating system so that you can work in the garage or dacha during the winter. Given the current cost of electricity, the majority of garage artisans would rather use heaters that run on waste wood or oil from factories or handcrafted heaters. Our article’s goal is to give you step-by-step instructions and illustrations on how to build a burzhuika, a small summer house or garage, by hand.

Select the design of the stove

We will present you with four unique designs to choose from, one of which will undoubtedly meet your needs because there are enough blueprints of traditional bourgeois architecture available:

1. Two-way wood and coal stove welded from sheet metal.
2. Vertical heater from a gas cylinder with an air or water circuit.
3. Long-burning pyrolysis stove made of a cylinder or pipe installed horizontally.
4. Drip stove for waste automobile and other oils.

A device featuring two smoke circuits

Note: As this topic explains, ceramic bricks can also be used to build a heating stove. The dacha’s interior will accommodate this type of heat source nicely, but the garage will find it inconvenient due to the brick structure’s size, prolonged heating, and immobility.

Air chamber at the top of a wood heater

We will now offer several suggestions regarding the design of a homemade bourzhuyka:

1. If you spend a little time in the garage (1-3 hours a day), then you need a quick heating of the room, and it will provide a vertical wood stove with an air heat exchanger (option #2), presented on the photo. Thanks to a fan that drives air through the upper chamber, it acts on the principle of a heat gun.
2. The same second option is suitable for boxes of large sizes (standard dimensions of the garage – 6 x 3 meters). Then the air chamber turns into a water circuit connected to the heating registers.
3. For permanent heating of a standard garage, option No. 1 – an efficient two-pass wood stove, or No. 3 – a unit of continuous combustion – will be suitable. The choice depends on the material you have: the first one is made of propane cylinder, the second one is made of 4 mm thick sheet iron.
4. Those who plan to burn waste oil for heating, it is recommended to weld from a round tube stove drip type (option #4). If you want and skill, you can modernize it – convert it into a boiler by making a water jacket.

Two-compartment pyrolysis burner

Citation. Two other well-known garage-made creations are worth mentioning: the wheel-disk heater and the well-known stove, Burzhuyka Upper Combustion Bubafonya. Another instruction goes into detail about making the first one. The latter, as seen in the video:

Assembling an efficient stove

It’s common knowledge that typical iron stoves have poor efficiency levels (about 45%), as a large portion of the heat is lost along with the flue gases in the chimney. The installation of two partitions on the combustion product’s path is a contemporary technical solution that our design implements for solid fuel boilers. As the gases pass around them, heat energy is transferred to the walls, increasing efficiency (55–60%) and increasing the bourzhuika’s economy. The drawing-scheme is reflected in the unit’s operating principle:

To manufacture, you will require a 4 mm thick mild steel sheet, a 100 mm diameter piece of pipe, and rolled metal for the grate and legs. Now let’s see how to create a cheap burner stove:

1. Cut the metal blanks according to the drawing and make openings for the fuel stove door and ash pan.
2. Weld the grate from angles or rebar.
3. From the cut parts make doors with locks.
4. Assemble the unit on tack welds, and then weld the seams together. Put the chimney spigot and legs on the stove.

Advice: Use thicker iron (5 or 6 mm) for the lower partition, which is heated by the flame.

Master welders practice adding more external ribs to the body, as shown in the picture, for improved heat dissipation.

How to weld a vertical stove from a cylinder

The upper portion of the stove has an air chamber that is totally sealed off from the fuel box by a steel bulkhead, setting this stove apart from other models of its kind. A fan blows heated air through heat-exchange fins inside the device. Spigots that have a diameter of 40–50 mm are integrated into the lid to supply cold water and expel hot steam, as shown in the drawing.

Note: The way the heated air chamber is arranged in the fuelbox’s upper zone allows heat from combustion products to be transferred from there to the chimney. The temperature in the garage rises swiftly because of the intense heating of the air flow in a separate compartment caused by a vertical stove, which burns the firewood completely.

The correct disassembly of a 50-liter propane cylinder is the first task. Turn off the valve and add as much water to the tank as possible to release the remaining liquefied gas. Following a bolgar, you must cut off the cover (cut line – factory seam) and follow these steps in sequence:

1. Make rectangular openings in the side wall of the cylinder for the ash and fuel door and frame them with a 3 mm thick steel strip as shown in the drawing. Cut out a Ø100 mm hole for the flue pipe.
2. Make removable grates and install them inside the casing on welded corners.
3. Make the ash and fuel chamber doors, attach handles and hinges to them, and then install them in the framed openings.
4. Cut a circle Ø30 cm from 4 mm thick metal – this will be the bottom of the chamber. Weld ribs from rolled metal waste to one of its surfaces, and then hermetically join it to the fuel box by welding.
5. Make 2 holes in the cut-off cover and weld in the spigots for connecting the air ducts. When ready, put the cover back in its original place (but now over the heat exchanger) and thoroughly weld the joint.

In addition to heating any area of the room, including sawdust, a vertical garage stove can burn wood of various moisture content and quality. This feature is especially useful for greenhouses. If radiators and registers are attached to the spigots in the upper chamber lid, it can also heat them and add coolant to the system.

Be aware that you must install an open-type expansion tank and create a continuous forced circulation from the pump in order to prevent boiling water and pipe bursts. Since the garage isn’t heated continuously, use antifreeze as a heat carrier.

Manufacturing of a horizontal heater

A standard propane cylinder arranged horizontally with a door at the end will result in a fairly large fuel box that holds logs measuring one meter in length. As indicated in the drawing, you must construct a secondary chamber with partitions for improved heat transfer and afterburning of the resultant pyrolysis gases.

This burner combines the afterburning of combustible gases with the extraction of heat from combustion products, which are encased in hemispherical baffles that are cut from the cylinder body. External ribs made of steel strips are considered an essential feature of intense heat exchange. Experience demonstrates that, when operating in the medium combustion mode—described in the following video—such a stove can heat a garage up to 50 m².

The manufacturing process for the heating unit is simple: a hole is cut in the back where the secondary chamber, which is welded from a pipe or second cylinder, is installed, and the front portion of the door is installed. The ash pan is hinged so as not to reduce the fuel box’s usable volume. A cooking surface is placed on top of the horizontal portion if needed.

Making a waste oil burning stove

Both used machine oil and fuel have a high caloric content. If it’s affordable for you, there’s no need to fiddle with coal and wood; a dependable stove can be made with ease using a drip pan. The way it works is by burning used oil and letting it drip into the heated bowl. Additionally, as the liquid fuel travels through the oil pipeline housed inside the afterburner pipe, it has time to warm up. The drawing provides a detailed representation of the drip type heater’s design.

A fan is used to force air into the heater for effective oil combustion, and the waste oil naturally flows out of the tank that is mounted on the wall next to the heater. Using a hand pump or other means to pressurize the fuel tank is an additional option for forcing the fuel supply.

The stove’s body can function as both a 30 cm-diameter propane cylinder and a pipe with an Ø219 mm. Building an oil-burning stove by hand is not hard; the key is to align the fuel pipe to the bottom-installed bowl and drill the proper holes and slots in the afterburner. We have a comprehensive assembly guide in our other article. A closer look at the heater’s operation can be gained from the following video clip:

Conclusion

It should be noted that you have the ability to modify and finalize the designs of the wood and oil burning stoves for your garage as they are being operated. The best thing about DIY stoves is that you can always make improvements to them. For instance, garage artisans frequently construct an external water circuit using a samovar heat exchanger that is integrated into the chimney pipe’s vertical section. This allows water heating to be used without affecting the design or construction of the stove itself.

Homemade stove burzhuyka with your own hands

A burzhuyka, a small, compact metal stove, can be used to heat a small summer house, garage, or workshop. It can be fabricated using metal sheets that have been welded together as well as recycled steel pipes, gas cylinders, barrels, and even old flasks. The most crucial factor is that the metal used to make this kind of stove shouldn’t be overly thin.

Materials and tools

To create a burzhuyka you will need:
– metal thickness of 3±0,5 mm: thinner sheets will quickly burn through, in addition, under the influence of high temperature, they can lead, and the furnace will become shapeless; thick-walled metal will be heated for a very long time;
– pipe for the chimney;
– bars 16 mm;
– sheet metal with a thickness of 0.3 mm for the device box for collecting ash;
– tape measure, ruler, chalk;
– welding machine 140-200A;
– bolgarka for cutting metal; for making round holes it is more convenient to use a gas torch;
– a metal brush for cleaning up welding spots;
– an emery wheel for fitting the doors;
– drill and drills.

Burzhukas schemes

The primary benefit of a stove with a rectangular shape. Its efficiency will be significantly higher than oval products made of pipes or gas cylinders because it has a larger heated surface area. A bourzhuyka’s ideal dimensions are 800 x 450 x 450 mm. This size stove will fit easily in even the smallest room because it doesn’t take up much room.

The stove "Gnome," which is made up of a box with a pipe welded to it, is the most basic design.

The existence of two plates (reflectors) in the upper portion of the furnace compartment is a significant distinction between Loginov stoves. Given that the gas path Compared to a traditional metal stove, the heat output of a bun stove is much higher.

Advice: If the stove Loginov’s size must be decreased, it is best to just alter its width. Modifying the structure’s height and length could drastically lower its efficiency.

An intricate schematic of the Logomov stove

The main stages of making a burzhuyka

1. A sheet of metal has all the parts marked out: Six steel rectangles for the stove’s walls, one rectangle for the smoke deflector, grate plates, and a door latch are all included. 2. Any metal depot will have cut metal sheet available. Unlike a Bulgarian, a guillotine gives you more precise cutting or chopping. In this instance, there will be no need for straightening or leveling the sheets. 3. The furnace body is constructed with a rectangular shape. Their sides are welded together after being butted at a ninety-degree angle.

4. The stove box is only tack welded in a few spots at first to prevent errors, and its seams aren’t welded up until the horizontal and vertical alignment is confirmed.

Crucial! The body’s connections are all expertly welded; you can use kerosene or chalk to test the joints’ tightness.

5. A metal brush is used to clean the welding seams. 6. The firebox, smoke chamber, and ashtray are the three sections that make up the firebox’s interior. A grate that will hold the fuel is placed between the firebox and the ash pan to keep it apart. To accomplish this, weld 5×5 cm corners on the back of the box, where the grate will be placed, at a height of 10-15 cm from the stove’s bottom from the sides.

Advice: It is best to construct the grate from two to three separate pieces. Otherwise, it will be challenging to remove a burned-out grate from the firebox for replacement.

7. The grate is made by welding thick steel bars or strips that are 30 mm wide. They are fastened to two stiffeners, which are 20 mm-diameter bars. It is preferable to have a removable grate of this kind because the grates burn out over time.

8. Welded two sturdy bars at a distance of 15 cm from the top of the box, on which one or two detachable reflectors—thick-walled metal sheets—will be positioned to slow the flow of hot gases and direct them toward afterburning. The stove must not be totally covered. There is an 8-cm indentation made on both the front (for the first sheet) and back of the stove to allow hot smoke to flow into the chimney.

9. The pipe hole is then cut in the box after the top portion is welded together.

The pipe’s opening

10. The front portion of the stove, which was welded last, has holes cut out for the ash pan and furnace door. 11. The fuel door’s dimensions must be such that adding fuel and changing the grates are both effortless tasks. A slightly smaller hole is made for the ash pan. 12. The hinges are welded to the stove’s body after being welded to the door. They can be welded from two tubes of different diameters or purchased already assembled. A bar or a strip of metal can be used to make the door handles.

Crucial! Doors need to be fixed to the body as tightly as possible; to do this, they need to be leveled and straightened, then cleaned with an emery wheel. It is important to ensure that the wedge latches that shut the doors are securely fastened to the body.

13. You can cook food or warm water on such a stove. To do this, a hole of the required diameter is cut in the top of the box. Burner for the stove. which will be inserted into this opening can be purchased at any building store.
14. For ease of use, the design It is installed on the legs or a welded pipe stand.
15. The chimney pipe is connected to the stove by means of a sleeve.
16. For inserting the chimney damper. To regulate the smoke output, two holes are drilled in the chimney. A metal bar is inserted into the holes and bent at 90°. To it in the center of the pipe is tacked on a "heel" of metal – a gate, the diameter of which should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the pipe itself by 3-4 mm.

Schieber to control the amount of smoke released

Chimney arrangement

In order to keep valuable heat from escaping through the chimney too soon, a unique design is required. This device consists of two main parts: a sloping section called the hog and a vertical height of 1.2 meters or more, installed at a 90° angle above the stove. 2.5–4.5 m or longer, where the smoke is extinguished. Up to 1/4 of the heat produced by the stove comes from the hog.

The stovepipe hogs

– Because a tall person could fall into the heated pipe, the hog needs to be covered with a net for protection. The distance between this pipe and the floor should be 2.2 meters to prevent burns. Thermal insulation is also wrapped around the vertical portion of the pipe that originates from the stove.

Crucial! Plastered walls should be placed 1.2 meters away from the chimney. There is a 1.5 m gap between wooden structures.

A pipe must be run through a wooden roof and ceiling slab, which requires a lot of labor. Leading it out of a window or through a hole in the wall is far simpler.

Smoke exit via the window

Knowing how to weld a chimney stove yourself can make a huge difference in your home’s insulation and heating. In addition to providing an affordable heating option, building your own chimney stove enables customization to meet the unique requirements of your house. With the right materials chosen and welding techniques mastered, homeowners can take charge of their heating system with the help of this do-it-yourself project. You can build a safe and dependable chimney stove that lowers energy costs and keeps your house warm by adhering to a few easy steps. Anyone can take on this project and reap the rewards of having a warm, comfortable home with the right direction and attention to detail.

Rules for safe installation of a metal stove

Since a burzhuyka heats up considerably more intensely than a brick stove, everything combustible needs to be kept far enough away from it. If the room has a wooden floor, it is only put in place over bricks or a sheet of metal. The metal is then placed on top of an asbestos sheet at least 35 centimeters away from the stove’s edges. It should stick out in front of the firebox by 5.5 cm. Replace asbestos with felt that has been impregnated with clay. For the purpose of reflecting heat, concrete can also have one of these screens installed.

Crucial! A stove that functions needs to be watched over. Refrain from spending extended periods of time outside the room where the stove is located.

Stove installation on a brick foundation

Constructing a DIY chimney stove can be a satisfying and economical method of heating your house. You can design a heating solution that meets your needs and is both practical and effective by following the instructions provided in this guide.

Don’t forget to begin by assembling all required supplies and equipment. A safer final product and a more seamless welding process can be achieved with careful planning and preparation. To prevent mistakes later on, measure and cut the metal precisely taking your time.

You should always put safety first when welding. To reduce your exposure to fumes, wear the proper protective gear, such as gloves and a welding helmet, and work in an area with good ventilation. To avoid getting tired and to keep your focus, take breaks as needed.

Follow the directions and diagrams carefully when assembling the chimney stove. At every stage, make sure everything fits together correctly by double-checking your work. Never be afraid to ask for help if you run into any problems or are unsure of something.

It’s imperative to thoroughly test the chimney stove after the welding is finished before using it on a regular basis. Inspect for any leaks or weak areas and rectify or adjust as needed. You can extend the life of your chimney stove by performing routine maintenance and inspections.

In conclusion, creating your own chimney stove can be an enjoyable do-it-yourself project that will benefit both your house and your pocketbook in the long run. You can take pleasure in the warmth and coziness of a specially designed heating solution that is suited to your unique requirements with cautious planning, close attention to detail, and a dedication to safety.

Video on the topic

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