Sealing the joints in your well-made concrete rings is an essential step in keeping your house warm during the winter. These rings provide a strong base for many kinds of constructions, including homes. But over time, settling and weathering can cause gaps to appear in even the best-built concrete rings. Fortunately, sealing these seams is a simple task that can greatly increase the energy efficiency and insulation of your home.
In addition to preventing heat loss, well-sealed seams also keep moisture, pests, and drafts out, keeping your house safe and comfortable. Whether you’re renovating an old home or building a new one, these little things can have a big impact on your energy costs and overall comfort.
It’s important to know the tools and methods that work best for sealing before starting the process. Depending on the size and location of the gaps, a variety of options are available, ranging from flexible sealants to specialized tapes. A long-lasting seal that can endure environmental conditions and hold its efficacy over time is ensured by selecting the appropriate materials and application techniques.
In addition to improving insulation, sealing the joints in concrete rings extends the life of your house’s framework. You can avoid potential damage from moisture and temperature fluctuations and preserve the integrity of the concrete by minimizing thermal bridging and preventing water infiltration. You can avoid future headaches, financial losses, and wasted time by maintaining these important areas.
Method | Materials Needed |
1. Seal with Cement | Cement mix, water, trowel |
2. Apply Waterproofing Sealant | Waterproof sealant, brush or roller |
3. Use Rubber Gaskets | Rubber gaskets, lubricant |
- Causes of leaks
- Methods of sealing joints in a well made of prefabricated concrete modules
- Plastering caulking
- Application of roll waterproofing
- Using bituminous mastic
- Sealing inserts
- Is there a folk alternative to expensive modern materials?
- Video: sealing a well with a homemade hydrosealer
- Features of sealing wells from the inside
- Sealing of joints and cracks
- What to do in case of displacement of rings
- Step-by-step instructions for sealing the joints and sealing the well shaft
- How to prevent shifting of well rings in the future
- Video on the topic
- Sealing seams in a well
- WELL LEAKS. How to caulk seams in a well. Hydroseal
- cheapest hydrosealant caulking of well seams
Causes of leaks
The process of building wells with shafts from modular reinforced concrete structures uses a technique called ring installation on sand-cement mortar. The construction mixture should form a dependable barrier to melt and ground water by completely filling in all of the irregularities in the joint between the upper and lower rings.
Contrary to popular assumption, well modules with locking joints also require sealing with sand and cement mortar. The latter stops rings from moving, but it doesn’t stop leaks in the joint.
Most of the time, when discussing leaks between the well rings, people focus entirely on the risk of the well shaft gradually collapsing and the quality of the drinking water declining.
It is noteworthy that the drinking spring’s shaft stays dry as a result of this rudimentary waterproofing. The fact that there were no leaks during the initial years of operation does not, however, imply that everything will remain perfect.
Even on stable soils, the concrete shaft’s surface usually develops wet spots after four to five years, which quickly become filthy drips and streams. If the work was done improperly, you shouldn’t hold the builders or yourself responsible. The breach of tightness typically happens for entirely different reasons:
- Simple mortar is not designed to operate in such harsh conditions. Constant humidity, temperature fluctuations and exposure to salts dissolved in water contribute to its cracking and destruction.
- If the well is dug in an area with pronounced seasonal ground movements, its trunk is subjected to regular mechanical impacts. As a result, you can observe not only cracks at the joints, but also mutual displacement of concrete rings in the horizontal plane.
- In northern regions, the upper rings are exposed to frost heaving forces. Because of this, they can not only shift horizontally, but also move up and down.
- Force majeure circumstances, expressed in displacement or subsidence of the rings due to the occurrence of floating water.
- Poor-quality materials – in the rings, made in violation of technology, over time may appear various defects – through cracks, gouged areas, etc. д.
It is best to waterproof the well during the building phase as this will save a great deal of time and work later on.
When building a well with simultaneous ring laying, it is rare that even basic mortar sealing is done. It will be necessary to take a number of steps to ensure that the joints are reliably waterproof in this situation as well as others.
Methods of sealing joints in a well made of prefabricated concrete modules
One of the following techniques can be used to seal the joints between the concrete rings:
- plastering;
- sealing with roll waterproofing;
- application of bituminous mastic;
- Filling gaps with sealants;
- application of polymer inserts.
Whether a well is being built or is already in operation determines which sealing technique should be used. We will also need to consider the building technology, the unique characteristics of the soil, the depth of the drinking water source, and other elements.
Waterproofing | Features | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mounting method | Efficiency waterproofing |
Security | Durability | Special requirements |
Price | |
Plastering | inside external |
high | high | medium | no | middle |
Rolled | outdoor | medium | low | high | requires additional waterproofing |
medium |
Bituminous | external | medium | low | high | requires additional waterproofing |
medium |
Sealing materials |
internal external |
low | medium | low | requires additional waterproofing |
low |
Polymer liner | internal | high | high | high | no | high |
It should be mentioned that combining multiple waterproofing techniques yields the best results; only in this scenario can you be certain of complete success.
Plastering caulking
The most popular technique for waterproofing is most likely the use of specific plaster mixtures. Plaster caulking is a popular method because it is easy to use, reasonably priced, and versatile enough to be applied from both inside and outside the well. The mortar is pressed into cracks and crevices during the sealing process with the use of trowels. The liquid mixture is leveled over the joint’s surface once plaster has been applied and the mortar has filled the space entirely.
Plaster sealing joints is one of the simplest and most accessible sealing techniques, which is why home masters use it so frequently.
Using regular sand-cement mortar is pretty pointless because there’s a good chance it will eventually crack and allow the joint to leak. It is best to use specific compounds known as hydroseals rather than trying to save money.
Visit this website to learn more about using hydroseals to seal the joints in well rings: https://aqua-rmnt.com/vodosnab/kolod-skvaj/gidroplomba-dlya-kolodca.html
Producers make hydroseals "for all occasions"; if needed, they even have a composition that can shut off a leak at up to seven atmospheres of pressure in an instant.
Waterproof mixtures, which are composed of aluminum cement, fine sand, and chemically active additives, have a shorter setting time and all the essential qualities like strength, flexibility, and resistance to frost. Not only can the dry joint between the rings be sealed with their assistance, but pressure leaks can also be completely stopped.
We can suggest materials like Penetron and Penecrete for general cases, avoiding the question of specific hydroseal brands. Waterplug, Puder-Ex, or Peneplug are the materials of choice when repairing a pressure leak quickly because of their quick curing times and strong adhesion in moist environments.
Since Hydroseal is a sophisticated quick-setting composition, preparation instructions should be followed to the letter.
Application of roll waterproofing
The portion of the well shaft that is typically most exposed to groundwater is the part that is up to three meters below the surface. In this situation, roll waterproofing such as roofing felt can be used to protect the joints. To accomplish this, excavate a ditch around the well that is one meter wide, and then glue or patch a layer of waterproofing to the top rings.
Applying or installing external waterproofing over an adhesive layer is necessary; polyethylene film wrapping alone is insufficient.
Clay can be poured into the excavation to further shield the well from precipitation and melted water. It will function as a hydraulic lock following complete compaction, obstructing the wellbore from becoming wet.
You can purchase specific sealing strips in addition to roll materials. They can be used to localize inner-side cracks, unlike roofing felt.
Self-adhesive sealing strips can be used to waterproof joints inside and outside of wells because of their strong adherence to concrete surfaces.
Using bituminous mastic
The rings are completely cleaned of dirt and dug to the necessary height in order to apply liquid bitumen waterproofing. After that, tar (resin) that has been dissolved in gasoline is applied with a wide brush. For high-quality waterproofing, at least three layers of bitumen are required; a thin layer won’t do. In order to improve adherence to the concrete surface, two passes are made: one with a mixture of one hour of resin to four hours of gasoline, and the other two with a component ratio of one to one.
You can use both homemade tar and premade rubber-bitumen mastic to seal the well from the outside.
It should be mentioned that tar and roll waterproofing are not actually related to eco-friendly materials. This is why a layer of moisture-resistant plaster has been applied to the surface of the joints on both sides as pre-protection; this will act as an extra assurance that no harmful materials will enter the well.
Plastering the joints is a necessary step before applying bituminous compound to the outer portion.
Sealing inserts
There are instances where the wear and tear on reinforced concrete rings is so great that joint sealing and repair are ineffective. Installing plastic inserts inside the barrel is the most practical solution in this situation.
A plastic liner can help repair even the most hopeless well.
These inserts have walls that range in thickness from 5 to 8 mm, depending on the diameter, and are composed of high-strength polymers. Because of the ribbing on their exterior, cylindrical inserts have the appearance of a large corrugated tube.
A significant part is played by the polymeric rings’ outer spiral rings. They enable you to virtually join plastic modules without any gaps and boost the structure’s rigidity, enabling you to create cylindrical tubes of any height.
It is best to leave sealing the well with a polymer insert to experts because it is a difficult and costly task.
The industry is skilled at producing sealing inserts for concrete rings of any diameter, so retrieving a plastic cylinder from the well is not difficult. If it weren’t for the fact that inserts are the most costly option out of all those taken into consideration, they might be considered the perfect choice.
The polymer inserts’ measurements match the inside measurements of typical reinforced concrete rings.
Is there a folk alternative to expensive modern materials?
If quick action is needed to stop leaks and the aforementioned techniques seem too costly or labor-intensive, the spaces between the rings can be easily sealed. Sealing options include special rubber or fiber-rubber strips, hemp or jute rope, and linen fiber impregnated with fiber-rubber. These materials are readily available in stores that sell products for waterproofing swimming pools, so they are not scarce. Gaps up to one centimeter in width can be eliminated by sealing with sealing inserts, but this is only a temporary solution. Be aware that stronger materials will eventually be required to seal the joints.
When sealing wide joints, you can save costly sealing compound and promptly stop leaks with the aid of homemade sealing materials.
Naturally, it will not be feasible to fully substitute hydroseals at home. However, artisans have devised a workaround by incorporating liquid glass into the mortar. Since this mixture solidifies in less than a minute, start by mixing 1:1 cement and sand. Just before applying the sealing composition to the joint or crack, one part of the alkaline solution is added.
Video: sealing a well with a homemade hydrosealer
Features of sealing wells from the inside
Tamping compounds and materials, along with the use of plastic inserts, can help waterproof the well post from the inside out. In the latter scenario, it is best to leave the work to experts; however, you can plaster joints yourself.
The first thing to take care of is the construction of a comfortable and safe workplace. Do not think that the use of a rope ladder in the work is a practical and convenient option – you will change your opinion in the fifth minute of its use. Most often for this purpose, a small shield is used, suspended on strong ropes or steel cables. Such a "cradle" is attached to a wooden beam or channel laid on the well head, and a powerful winch is used to lower it. As you have already realized, you can not do without helpers. In addition, it is necessary to take care of a reliable safety net – a strong rope tied tightly around the belt and attached to the support crossbar can be used as a safety net.
An ordinary ladder fastened to the well head can be used to waterproof the upper rings.
Pumping the water out of the well is necessary when fixing an operational well. This will clear the silt bottom and replenish the filtering layer if needed. Furthermore, years’ worth of dirt and mold buildup should be removed from the trunk’s interior surface. For this kind of work, a high-pressure washer is the best tool available. You will be able to see the damage in detail and choose the best course of action for its removal once the concrete surface has been thoroughly cleaned.
A high-pressure washer can be used to quickly and simply clean the inner surface of concrete rings.
Sealing of joints and cracks
To clean the joints and trouble spots between the rings, use a metal brush. Getting a rough base will aid in improving the sealing compound’s adhesion, among other things. Following that, plaster is applied after wetting the concrete with water. This is an easy task: the working mixture is rubbed on the surface and pushed firmly into the joints.
Whether the cracks are filled by hand or with a trowel makes no difference. Ensuring that the sealing compound enters the gap as deeply as possible is crucial.
The only cracks that can cause problems are tiny ones; smearing the hydrosealant on the surface won’t produce any unique effects, and the mortar cannot be forced into tiny, thread-like cracks. In this instance, a hammer and a small chisel are used to enlarge the crack in an attempt to create a dovetail-shaped slot in the cross section.
Sealing large cracks and holes in the wall requires a lot of working solution, so you can get creative to save money on pricey compositions that you buy. In order to achieve this, the factory waterproofs only the outer portion of the "patch," filling it to a depth of 1-2 cm with thick sand-cement mortar or fiber-rubber tamponazh.
Shear is most likely to occur in the wellbore’s bottom and top rings.
What to do in case of displacement of rings
The above methodology is followed for waterproofing if the well shaft’s concrete module displacement is less than or equal to one-third of the ring’s thickness. If there is a large displacement, the shaft is broken down into its component parts and excavated to the level of the damaged area.
After the links have been removed, they should be put back on top of a layer of cement mortar and lined up with the bottom ring at the same time. Following that, a unique compound is used to seal the joints on the inside and outside. We’ll revisit the topic of how to stop rings from potentially moving in the future.
Step-by-step instructions for sealing the joints and sealing the well shaft
The following tools should be ready before you begin sealing the well:
- containers for mixing working solutions;
- metal brush;
- scrapers for cleaning the surface or a high-pressure washer;
- trowels;
- perforator or impact drill;
- a wide paint brush with stiff bristles;
- hammer;
- thin bit.
You will need the most basic tools that any owner has in order to repair the well.
To ensure you don’t overlook any details, the work should be completed in a sequential manner. There is no universal algorithm; instead, decisions must be made specifically for each unique situation. Still, we bring the most comprehensive well joint sealing instructions to your notice. We made an effort to include all of the crucial information so you would fully comprehend the type and sequence of repair operations.
- Preparatory stage. From the existing well remove all functional and decorative elements, completely exposing the header. If necessary, the well shaft is dug down to the third or fourth ring, and the water is pumped out using an electric pump. After that, they install lifting equipment and a working platform.
- With the help of friends or relatives lower into the well. Using brushes, scrapers and a high-pressure washer, clean the surface of the shaft. It is best to do this by moving from top to bottom. At the same time carefully inspect each ring, assessing the scope of the upcoming work and possible material costs (remember that the "life" of factory hydroseals is measured in minutes).
- Once down to the bottom, do not hurry to clean it from silt. Firstly, during repair works the bottom part will be polluted by debris and falling mortar, and secondly, it will give an additional inflow of water.
- Having cleaned the surface, start sealing the joint that is above the water mirror. There is no point in sealing the rings that are installed below – this part of the well is in the aquifer. Filling is carried out in sections of 10-20 cm, and vertical cracks should be plastered from bottom to top.
There are no problems when sealing dry cracks or those where small amounts of water leak in. Damages cause problems because the stream beats under pressure and the sealing compound is quickly washed out. In this instance, one or two 20–25 mm drills are drilled 25 cm below the leak; their purpose is to reroute the flow. The holes are filled in with rubberized hemp or wooden pegs and sealed with a thick layer of filling mortar once the main crack has been sealed.
The well’s operation is not initiated right away. Waiting until it fills to a normal level and pumping out all the water completely are required. The source can only be deemed usable after that.
If the clay backfill is not placed in accordance with the guidelines, it will not function as a waterproofing system.
How to prevent shifting of well rings in the future
You’ll have to accept the lower rings’ displacement because it takes a lot of work and money to dig the shaft down to this depth. There is no assurance that the issue won’t recur after repair because weak soil or floating are the main causes of displacement. The top two or three rings only need to be replaced in an obligatory manner. Doing so will enable you to create a high-quality waterproofing and prevent top water from flooding the shaft.
Well rings with rebated locks can be used to stop them from moving horizontally.
The easiest way to stop well rings from shifting horizontally is to swap them out for hollow reinforced concrete modules with locking joints. If the thought of extra expenses embarrasses you, it is advised to join adjacent rings with sturdy metal brackets or thick steel plates. In order to accomplish this, holes are drilled into which a staple is hammered from the outside, at least 25 centimeters away from the joint. The innermost edges need to be folded over and sealed with caution. If plates are utilized, they must be positioned on both sides and fastened with bolts that have a minimum diameter of 12 to 14 mm.
Thick steel strip plates, either straight or curved, and metal brackets can be used to join concrete rings together.
Expert craftsmen frequently use the technique of joining rings with metal fasteners when excavating wells. Because the lower links pull the upper ones along with them, bonded concrete modules are far more capable of settling downward. It also lessens the possibility that the floating ground will cause the water table’s rings to float away.
Because the soil attempts to push the upper rings upward, raising them above the other links of the well shaft, cracks in the joints occur in powdery soils. In this instance, the cylindrical modules are swapped out for cone modules and the shaft is disassembled to a depth below the estimated frost point.
Cone rings made in a factory or by hand will remain in place even in the driest soil.
It is nearly impossible to find prefabricated cone rings, so you will need to cast them yourself. The latter should have an internal inclination of between 10 and 15 degrees. The upper concrete module is pressed up against the wellbore as a result, reversing the ejection forces.
Maintaining a cozy and energy-efficient house requires making sure that concrete ring wells are properly insulated and have their seams sealed. Effectively sealing these gaps can help homeowners avoid heat loss, lower their energy costs, and enhance indoor comfort.
Using specialty sealants or caulk is one of the most popular techniques for caulking or sealing seams in concrete ring wells. These products are made to plug any holes or fissures in the concrete, forming a tight seal that keeps moisture and air out of the house.
It’s crucial to completely clean the concrete’s surface and get rid of any dirt, debris, or leftover sealant before using any sealants. Better adhesion and a more effective seal are ensured by doing this. Furthermore, thoroughly examine the seams to find any areas that might need more care or support.
Make sure you carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions when applying the sealant. Apply a uniform, smooth bead of sealant with a caulking gun along the seams, being careful to completely fill in any spaces. After applying, let the sealant completely dry before checking for any gaps or leaks.
Homeowners may also think about adding insulation or installing weatherstripping around access points as additional ways to seal and insulate their concrete ring well in addition to applying sealant. Homes can effectively reduce heat loss and improve energy efficiency by adopting a proactive approach to sealing and insulation.
In the quest for a cozy and energy-efficient home, sealing the seams in a concrete ring well stands as a pivotal task. Properly sealing these gaps not only prevents water leakage but also enhances the overall insulation of your house. By employing simple yet effective techniques like using waterproof sealants or expanding foam, you can ensure a tight seal that keeps out moisture and drafts. Paying attention to details such as cleaning the surfaces thoroughly and allowing ample time for the sealant to cure will result in a long-lasting solution. With a little effort and the right materials, sealing the seams in your concrete ring well can significantly contribute to the comfort and efficiency of your home, saving you both money and hassle in the long run.