How to protect the foundation from concrete from destruction

Safeguarding the foundation is an important consideration when constructing or renovating a house, particularly if it is composed of concrete. Although concrete is a strong material, over time, deterioration may occur due to natural forces. It extends the life of your concrete foundation and contributes to the structural integrity of your entire house when you know how to protect it from potential harm.

One of the greatest threats to a concrete foundation is water. Water that seeps into concrete has the potential to freeze and expand, weakening the structure and creating cracks. For this reason, waterproofing and appropriate drainage are crucial first steps in safeguarding your foundation. In order to prevent water from pooling around the foundation and moving away from it, appropriate drainage solutions must be installed.

The kind of soil that surrounds your property is another thing to think about. Various weather conditions cause different reactions from different types of soil. For instance, soils with a lot of clay can expand when wet and contract when dry, placing additional strain on the foundation. Understanding the type of soil will help you make the best decisions regarding how to reduce this stress.

Finally, routine upkeep and inspection are essential. If small cracks and leaks are ignored, they can quickly grow into larger problems. Regular inspections help identify these issues early on, which simplifies and lowers the cost of repairs. Homeowners can make sure that their foundation is safe and sound for many years to come by exercising caution.

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Secondary foundation protection against corrosion factors

Painting is the simplest way to prevent corrosion in concrete structures.

This type of protection entails coating the base’s exterior with unique protective paints or varnishes.

Although impregnation is typically carried out to the greatest depth feasible, a number of variables can influence when the concrete deforms enough to stop. To begin with, this is:

1. Anti -corrosion coating does not always guarantee a stop stop;
2. Without the presence of special inhibitors in concrete, the external coating will not always be quite effective;
3. The temporary factor plays an important role, because the internal corrosion of the metal cannot be stopped by coatings;
4. The efficiency of impregnation depends on the composition and consistency, therefore it is recommended to use a liquid mixture for the most deep penetration into the material. On the other hand, the consumption of liquid mixtures is huge, and viscous compositions are easily applied, but the penetration is minimal.

Drainage best protection against groundwater

Drainage eliminates flooding, mold growth, and hoarfrost, making it the best method of protecting the foundation from moisture. When groundwater is found above the basement floor level, the device can be used. The main goal is to transfer the building’s water to the closest reservoirs or collectors. Due to the characteristics of the local soils, drainage may not always be possible. Ideally, the system is designed at the time the entire house is being designed.

Rules for organizing drainage

For the purpose of setting up the drainage process, the following guidelines and suggestions apply:

• time periods with independent execution are delayed by 3 months, if there are qualified working time, it is reduced to 1 month. At the same time, the optimal time for work is the summer months, acceptable until the end of September;
• It is necessary to collect all the information about the location of the underground sources, the water level and the features of the foundation. Therefore, it is dug up in advance;
• systems of wooden ramps provide unhindered movement throughout the site;
• Preliminary compilation of the project with a list of all necessary materials simplifies the process.

Preliminary preparation of the base

The foundation must be initially waterproofed before installing a drainage device. To do this, the design’s foundation is being ready:

• the foundation, the trench should be about 1 m width;
• purification of the old insulating layer and earth;
• thorough drying of the structure.

Additionally, the type of waterproofing—which can be classified into two categories—influences the device’s choice.

• coating;
• penetrating;
• Enough;
• Rolling.

When combined with gravel backfill, the bitumen-based type is thought to be a durable option that effectively prevents water damage to the foundation by providing dependable drainage. Water will be effectively removed from a layer of gravel to the simulator pipes, which also helps with ventilation and insulation of the building. By using a geotextile as a wrapping material, gravel will be shielded from siltation and minor precipitation. Plastic can be used for viewing wells, and geotextile protection should be added to drainage pipes.

Drainage laying

Following trench excavation and waterproofing, drainage is installed:

1. It is necessary to dig a moat at a distance of 1m, the width should be at least 30 cm, and the depth can reach below the foundation;
2. The bottom is aligned with a sand with a layer of 5-10 cm and equipped in this way a slope of 1:10;
3. On top of the sand, geotextiles in rolls are laid, the ends are strengthened on the walls of the moat;
4. Next is a layer of gravel 10cm;
5. Then the perforated pipes are laid with a 1cm per meter slope;
6. fall asleep with a layer of gravel 10cm above the pipes;
7. cover with the ends of geotextiles, sew them together;
8. The end of the pipe should be allotted from the house at 5m, at the end arranged a water intake with a depth of 1 mmnish of the pipe;
9. The pit of the water intake is lined with geotextile and insert a plastic container, after making holes at the bottom of the container;
10. fix the container and sprinkle with gravel, which protects the foundation from soil tuning. On top of gravel, the container is covered with soil.

What factors should be taken into account when choosing the protection of the foundation from groundwater

When deciding how to keep the building from absorbing moisture, you should ascertain:

• The depth of the arrangement of underground layers. This must be done if the basement is arranged in the construction of the house.
• What pressure has underground fluid. This criterion divides the layers into four types. In addition, in the same place you can simultaneously encounter, for example, with the "pressure" and with "suspended" waters.

Advice: A geodetic survey of the proposed building site ought to be done prior to any building work beginning.

• The waterproofing of the foundation is strongly affected by the characteristics of the soil on which the structure will be built. Soils are like water permeable, such as sandstone, or not, when the liquid is looking for other “lighter” paths for moving towards the foundation.
  In this case, the waterproofing layer must be made more “powerful”. Given this specificity, the choice of materials is made. In addition, any liquid may contain aggressive elements.
• The type of foundation. Everyone has its own characteristics both in the order of work and on materials for manufacturing. For example, with a pile foundation, the use of roller “insulators” is excluded, but they are perfect for a strip type (read more details).
• Under any construction conditions, the waterproofing of the foundation is performed on the outer and from the inside. Both types are basic, and to equip one of them is unacceptable.

How to seal the room correctly

The order of all the work is as follows:

• First of all, it is the material of the manufacture of the wall;
• After that, look at the temperatures that the sealant will withstand and also humidity. Before buying the instruction should be read, the sealant must withstand high humidity and transfer temperature changes.

Hydrophobization of the features of the process

Vertical and horizontal waterproofing adjustment plan.

The foundation will be able to breathe and be shielded from moisture thanks to hydrophobization. Hydrophobisators, or silicon compounds separated by organic molecules, are employed in this process. Among them are those that provide extra defense against dust and dirt in addition to shielding the material from moisture infiltration.

1. The walls impregnated with the hydrophobisator are also protected from graffiti drawings, from this we can conclude that protection is quite reliable. After all, it is often possible to observe graffiti on the walls of serious institutions, and these are additional costs for repair.
2. Also, the foundation and walls treated with a hydrophobizer become more frost -resistant, their thermal insulation increases, the service life increases and the microclimate in the building improves due to the fact that the materials can “breathe”.
3. Such impregnation will save the surface from mold, because on a dry surface the fungus will not form. When using colorless impregnations, the natural color of the building material does not change and persists much longer than without such a coating.
4. Some compounds allow you to process wet materials. Valles will never appear on the processed walls of the building and the foundation, the so -called salts contained in building materials and protruding over time on the surface.

The main mechanism of protection is the formation of a hydrophobic coating on the surface, which is essentially a thin polymer film that, when exposed to water, seals the pores to keep moisture out. Hydrophobic agents exhibit long-term retention within the material’s pores, meaning they provide long-lasting protection.

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What methods can protect the foundation

Installing unique castings for the foundation comes first. Their function is to remove rain and melted water from the roof that falls on the foundation. Arrange them so that they are as close to the wall as possible. In the event that this is not possible, a sealant must be applied to the wall and the tinted area.

The foundation’s waterproofing from groundwater comes in second. All foundation surfaces that come into contact with the ground are susceptible to waterproofing. The groundwater level and the foundation’s design characteristics determine the execution strategies.

It is sufficient to perform waterproofing using roofing material, which is laid prior to filling concrete to the bottom and from the inner sides to the formwork of the future foundation, if the water level does not rise higher than one meter to the base of the foundation. This method can be used for both strip foundations and ribborn ribboned opening piles. The ribboned pile is laid by roofing ground, and before concrete is poured, it is wrapped in a "tube" to protect the pile around the perimeter.

Naturally, this is the least expensive option, but it may not be ideal if groundwater is poured during a flood and is too close to the foundation’s base. In this instance, more costly contemporary materials—like liquid rubber or penetrating waterproofing—must be used.

Thirdly, surface waters that fall on the non-interpreted portion of the foundation due to rain and melting snow need to be kept out of the foundation. This is only required if facing work is not done on the foundation’s basement, excluding the cladding panels, as moisture may potentially enter the space between them and the foundation and have disastrous effects. Waterproofing the basement is not necessary, and special basement plaster with additional staining is required when plastering.

The coating method is applied to waterproof the basement. In this instance, bitumen mastic is the most widely used. It can be used in a variety of ways. When the foundation’s surface is free of bulges, cracks, and irregularities, mastic is applied using a brush or roller after being heated to between 30 and 40 degrees. A burner or soldering lamp can be heated. Although white spirit can be used to dilute the mastic, use caution when doing so because the mastic cools down quickly after it is added and becomes difficult to mix into a homogenous mass.

It is essential to remove any dirt and grease from the surface before applying mastic. It is imperative to remove any irregularities present in the foundation. The same mastic can be used to locate deep hollows and cracks in the foundation without heating it. By analogy with putty, it is applied in this instance using a spatula.

It is important to consider that any building materials that fall on the foundation could cause serious damage when waterproofing it. When the blind spells are ready, the basement of the foundation needs to be waterproofed, which also serves the purpose of allowing water to drain from the foundation.

Therefore, the order in which the foundation should be waterproofed is as follows: we waterproof the soil portion, pour the blind area, and then waterproof (or finish work) the basement. released on Econet.ru

The choice of insulation depending on the type of foundation

For the strip foundation’s insulation Almost any substance having the ability to withstand heat is appropriate.

Since the installation of the insulation is done directly on the base, a standard technology is used for each insulation material for this kind of foundation.

For the pile foundation’s insulation Some preparatory procedures must be followed. Given that this kind of foundation is made up of vertical supports that are covered in a concrete slab, or grillage. Although insulation is typically not needed for such a foundation, the building’s heat transfer is greatly decreased when the grillage’s heat-insulating protection is used.

Polystyrene foam is typically used as a warming material and is mounted on the grillage’s surface. Every area where the grillage comes into contact with the building’s walls and piles has previously been covered in a roofing material or bitumen mastic waterproofing layer.

Following the insulation of the grillage, the surface is finished, providing the thermal insulation layer with further protection. In order to ensure a stable blinding behavior, polystyrene foam is also placed directly on top of them, down to a depth of approximately 30 cm. Thus, insulation surrounds the outside of the house.

Currently, a sizable variety of materials are available for use as external foundation insulation. Every one of them possesses unique attributes, both positive and negative.

Using a rational strategy, you can select the best option for a given situation. The majority of consumers want to insulate their foundations on their own, so they typically purchase polystyrene foam, which they can install themselves without professional assistance.

Watch this video to learn how to insulate your home’s foundation from the outside using your own hands.

Watch the video below to learn more about using polystyrene foam outside to insulate the foundation.

Processing technology specifics of the procedure

Any construction store sells ready-made solutions or their concentrate, which can be used for this procedure.

You’ll need these reasonably priced tools to apply a specific construction mixture to the work cart:

The apparatus of the foundation’s basement

1. wide brush;
2. standard roller;
3. spray.

Any of these gadgets will handle the work of processing the water protection tool for the built structure’s foundation flawlessly.

If special concentrates are used to keep the foundation’s basement dry, you should first thoroughly read the comprehensive instructions that come with the construction mixture. They will specify exactly when it makes sense to dilute the tool.

Work with the solution can start right away, but don’t forget to clean the foundation thoroughly to remove any dust, pollution, and other harmful raids.

In the event that the construction structure exhibits indications of mold growth or decay, it is imperative to treat the surface with antiseptics and specialized chemical compounds. The walls need to be cleaned using mechanical motions because they are coated in loose plaster.

Substance: Apply a hydrophobizer evenly and completely to the foundation until a distinct shine develops. The mixture is applied to two layers if the base material exhibits an elevated degree of porosity.

Applying a hydrophobizer in warm, dry weather is preferable in order to optimize the mixture’s protective properties.

In the case of such grounds, it is crucial that the moisture-repellent mixture be the most appropriate response to the query of how to process the foundation from moisture;

• construction concrete;
• wooden;
• metal.

The strength of the foundation as a whole will be positively impacted by the "protection" that steel and iron elements receive from corrosion processes in addition to moisture resistance.

Foundation protection options

There are a number of ways to shield the home’s foundation from soil moisture, including the following:

Different foundation waterproofing options.

1. Groundwater from the base can be deduced using a special drainage system consisting of perforated pipes. After that, water enters special wells where it is cleaned. In the future, moisture can be used for technical needs.
2. The foundation is protected using a cement-sand mortar, the layer of which should be from 25 mm. The mixture is applied to the surface, leveled, after which it is thoroughly dried. A layer of roofing material or ordinary toly is already attached from above.
3. Another option, which allows you to isolate the walls of the base from excess moisture, consists in the use of mastic from preheated bitumen and the blessing of a gun in a proportion of one to two. If necessary, lime can be replaced with sifted dry chalk, which is mixed with a conventional resin in a proportion of one to one. Such molten mastic is applied to the surface in two layers, their total thickness is from 8 mm.
4. The simplest is the option in which the foundation is isolated by two layers of roofing material or toly. When laying, an overlap from 15 cm should be provided. When laying, it is necessary to ensure that the roll material is not damaged, have no defects.

Surface cementing is frequently utilized and can be done in a number of ways. More thought should be given to how to safeguard the base in this manner.

This process is involved in the first method:

Diagram of the entire DRASISE DREASION device.

• The cement solution is applied to the surface, thoroughly leveled;
• After that, a layer of dry cement is poured with a thickness of 2-3 mm, leveled with a spatula.

When the cement is applied, it absorbs moisture perfectly. However, once the cement dough is formed, it stops absorbing water completely.

There is another way to keep moisture from the soil away from the building’s base. After the solution is aligned, it is applied to a divided ready-made cement dough rather than dry cement.

Such isolation is laid at a height of 15-20 cm above the soil level for a brick or stone foundation.

Isolation is 10 cm below beams if the floor is supported by them.

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Horizontal waterproofing

To keep moisture out, the foundation must be horizontally waterproofed. Water is absorbed by the foundation because it is composed of porous materials. There is a chance of cracking if the wet surface becomes frozen. Mold and fungi grow more readily on moistened foundation. You can avoid detrimental effects from moisture penetration if the isolation from moisture is properly horizontal.

• rolled, produced before the construction of the walls in the innocation or floating method on the prepared surface;
• impregnation, is made during the construction of the building or its direct operation.

Motorproofing waterproofing

In order to carry out waterproofing, a screed-leveling tool is required. It is constructed from a blend of concrete, sand, and specialized filler. Bitumen or polymers are the basis for the rolled isolation material.

In what way is the waterproofing effective?

• the surface is aligned with a screed, into which additives are added to increase moisture resistance;
• A primer from a primer based on bitumen or water is applied to the screed. After the primer dries, mastic is applied;
• If rolled material is selected, then it fits on the mastic before it dries. When the material has a glue layer, it is better to lay it after the mastic dries. For surfacing insulation, a propane burner is needed to heat the material and roll out on the surface;
• Materials are applied with several layers;
• For the premises with the basement, waterproofing is applied to the sole of the foundation – in the place where the base ends. If the building is without a basement, the waterproofing of the foundation from the walls is enough.

Penetrating horizontal waterproofing of the foundation

Crystals piercing through Moisture isolation is created using a cement and chemical activator solution. When the solution comes into contact with a concrete surface, it crystallizes and creates a layer that is resistant to moisture.

How does waterproofing via coating work?

• The foundation is cleaned, pollution is removed;
• The cement solution is mixed with water, chemical activators and filler;
• The concrete surface is moisturized;
• a solution of cement is applied;
• leave the surface for 2-3 days-until the solution is completely dry.

Injection waterproofing of the foundation

The process of injecting a gel solution through specific holes into the foundation is known as injection waterproofing. When the solution comes into contact with water, it expands and seals the holes, preventing moisture from penetrating the foundation down to a depth of 0.5 meters.

How injection waterproofing is made:

• From the inside, the surface is cleaned of dirt;
• the number of holes and their placement is calculated. The location is chosen so that it is possible to pour a continuous layer of the solution under the foundation;
• holes are drilled at an angle, then insert special nozzles for pouring the solution;
• Low pressure pumps are pumped into the holes of the polymer gel;
• take out the nozzles and close the holes with cement.

All forms of horizontal waterproofing are very effective, but vertical moisture isolation is necessary for optimal protection.

Features of the drainage system

There are various drainage techniques that can be used to remove water from a detached structure’s foundation:

• Ring drainage of the foundation. It is used to prevent the flooding of the basement of the buildings of the buildings of separate and constructed on sand soil. Water freely penetrates through such a soil, and the foundation can save the device of ring drainage. At the same time, it should be taken into account:

1. The structure consists of a ring, its inner part is isolated from water;
2. Upon receipt of fluid, from only one specific side, such drainage can be laid as an open circle;
3. The installation of such a system should be carried out below the floor level, the premises that are subject to protection against moisture;
4. The system is laid at a distance of 5 to 8 meters from the wall.

Advice: If you don’t take care of its removal at a lower distance, the soil of the soil of the soil may occur.

Ring drainage surrounding the residence

• The drainage is prefabricated. Used to prevent the flooding of the basement and the basement of the building, which is built on clay or loamy soil. It penetrates through such soil it is quite difficult. When choosing this option, drainage instructions suggests taking into account:

1. It is often used to prevent the premises from the penetration of water into it;
2. It is used for a mixed source of soil fluid;
3. lay the device outside from the building. In this case, the distance from the wall of the building to the drainage system should be equal to the width of the foundation, directly.
4. such a system is laid above the level of the sole of the foundation;
5. With a too high foundation depth, drainage can be slightly higher.

• Slade drainage. It is usually used in combination with wall or ring. When choosing such a system, you need to know that:

1. It is advisable to use it on soil of any type, where a large amount of groundwater;
2. It is used for prevention in loamy and clay soil;
3. A special pipe is laid through the entire foundation of the building, to ensure such a system, interaction with external drainage.

The drainage system consists of a closed device circuit and a network of connected pipes. It is situated beneath the building’s lowest point. The whole device is laid down for optimal runoff.

In order to visually control the drainage condition and, if necessary, easily clean the system, a tank or well is installed in each corner section of the system.

Every extra water goes into the pipes and the wells, where it is expelled outside the property. However, even with the most accurate drainage system device, it is extremely challenging to achieve 100%, particularly on the walls.

This article includes a video that explains the ideal foundation for soil waters to use on a summer cottage. Water in the structure below the soil level can be totally eliminated with the help of the foundation’s waterproofing.

Chemical way to strengthen the soil under the foundation

Fortifying the base with a reciprocal feast: The current foundation; the banking bearing beam; the unloading beams; the banquet of monolithic concrete; the slopes of the pit; the fine in the foundation for installing a beam; and the crushed stone seal of the base are the first, second, and third.

Chemical reagents can be used, according to global practice, to correct the soil beneath a building or other structure. The 1960s saw the development of the technology. In sandy soils, chemical soil fixing aids in extending the strip base. A similar fix was made, for instance, to the stage area of the Mariinsky Theater in St. Petersburg. When there are design errors and the foundation needs to be amplified, this technique is employed. It has a depth that is less than the soil’s freezing point.

Hydrochloric acid (3% solution) and carbamide resin are used to fix the soil. At a pressure of 0.3 MPa, pumps are used for supervision. Pumped up are hydrochloric acid, water, and carbamide resin, which has a density of up to 1.08 g/cube cm. Nevertheless, there is a risk that adding chemicals to the soil will worsen the state of the environment. As a result, the majority of experts have given up on this kind of soil strengthening in recent years. Silicates that pose no environmental risk are an exception.

Using the anchoring device to strengthen the foundation during a banquet: One foundation already in place; two fines beneath the beam; three reinforcement beams; four unloading beams; five bilateral "banquets"; six anchor releases of 25–30 mm, l = 150 mm; and seven crushed stone base seals.

The key components of the silicatization process are the injection of a liquid glass solution and carbon dioxide under pressure, which is required to activate the mineral particles in the soil. Even more, the amount of gel-like mixture can be increased by using electricity through the silicatization method.

However, using regular Portland cement, which primarily consists of calcium hydrolycate, is the least expensive method of silicatization. Mixing cement suspension with weak soil is the main step in the process. Nevertheless, such techniques for fortifying the foundation are hardly ever employed at the household level. When a foundation is destroyed, mechanical techniques are typically available for its repair and strengthening, which enable the partial or total replacement of a wooden building’s structure.

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A home’s longevity and safety depend on its concrete foundation being shielded from damage. Concrete foundations can sustain significant damage over time from environmental variables like moisture, temperature swings, and soil movement, necessitating expensive repairs. By implementing control joints to allow for natural concrete movement, employing high-quality waterproofing materials to keep moisture out, and making sure that proper drainage is in place to prevent water accumulation around the foundation, homeowners can avoid this kind of damage. Regular inspections can also help keep the integrity and functionality of the foundation by identifying and addressing any early signs of damage.

Foundation Protection from Putting

You must first address the notion of "soil trimming." This expression refers to soils with high moisture content, which implies that they can rise and expand in volume in response to strong frosts based on the most basic physical principles. Building on such heaving soils requires the placement of a gravel pillow, specially washed sand, or gravel-ductile spatding beneath the foundation base. The base made of these non-pichenic materials stops the pushing forces from having an impact on the lower portion of the foundation.

It’s crucial to keep in mind that when the ground’s water level significantly rises—which can happen in the fall or during snowmelt—water collects around the pushing and unnecessary dusty-clay soil. As soil particles move with water, they get right into the pouring and clog it, gradually transforming regular soil into an abyss. After the foundation has been in use for a number of years, it is once more on the ground, which becomes distorted in the winter.

Warn the sealing of a spatch, you can use special filter materials such as a fiberglass or timpara. They pass water well, but prevent the penetration of the smallest dusty-clay particles into the pure.
One of the ways to reduce the activity of the abyss of the abyss is the organization of drainage. It allows you to lower the moisture content of the soil due to a decrease in the water level in the soil. The traditional design of the drainage system is several drainage pipes that are placed in a layer of washing gravel, which delays large particles of soil. Pipes are laid with a small slope, which in turn provides the flow of water into the well or just a sewer pit.

Around drainage pipes is placed a filter material that captures even the smallest particles, ensuring the efficient operation of the entire drainage system without the need for time-consuming cleaning. The same procedures that are used to keep heating soil hidden are also used to keep the foundation from freezing.

Which is better for insulation of mineral wool, foam or foam

Despite their excellent thermal insulation, mineral heaters—different types of mineral wool—rarely serve as the foundation’s external insulation these days. It takes too much extra work to obtain high-quality insulation.

For the purpose of installing mineral wool Its construction requires the construction of a frame to keep it dry. Usually, an extra brick wall is built to shield the insulation from mechanical harm. These factors have made the use of mineral wool as a foundation heater all but obsolete.

Of all the materials used to construct the exterior of a house, polystyrene and its derivatives, polystyrene foam and, were the most widely used.

While these materials and their installation techniques are similar, the foam is less durable and long-lasting, and its propensity to absorb moisture speeds up its decomposition.

Best attributes Penoplex has these qualities, making it the most widely used material for foundation external insulation at the moment. Consumers are drawn to products because of their strength and superior technical qualities, as well as their affordability and ease of installation.

Insulation made of pentoplex The following order is in which it is produced:

1. The soil is removed along the perimeter of the foundation to a depth depending on the foundation. The surface is thoroughly cleaned of soil particles and, if necessary, is aligned with a cement-sand solution.
2. After the leveling solution is completely dried, a waterproofing layer is applied twice to the foundation surface, consisting of bituminous or polymer mastic on water -based.
3. Foam troops are mounted on dried waterproofing. Installation is carried out by gluing for acrylic glue. PAZs have plates, so when installing the cracks is not formed.
4. If necessary, the joints are sealed with mounting foam. Sometimes in the upper part of the insulation layer of the foam, additional fastening is used with plastic "umbrellas".
5. After the installation of the plates, a fiberglass grid is attached over them, and then the surface is plastered. The part of the base remaining after filling the soil from the outside can be finished with decorative material.

Take note! Petrol or acetone cannot be used to dilute bitumen mastic if it is thick. The insulation is destroyed because such solvents are used and come into contact with the foam.

Another contemporary insulating material that is quickly gaining traction is polyurethane foam.

Since it is sprayed onto the foundation’s surface, installation mounts are not necessary when using it. Because of its superior insulating qualities, 50 mm polyurethane foam can take the place of 120 mm polystyrene foam.

Quickly become well-known Polyurethane foam is another modern insulation material. Since it is sprayed onto the foundation’s surface, installation mounts are not necessary when using it. Because of its superior insulating qualities, 50 mm polyurethane foam can take the place of 120 mm polystyrene foam.

When not in use In case of extra waterproofing. Customers view the inability to apply the insulation themselves as the lone disadvantage because it will require specialized equipment.

How to increase the waterproofing indicators of the foundation

Concrete wet action with water

Any current concrete corrosion protection techniques won’t work if the surface isn’t properly waterproofed. Consequently, the foundation’s waterproofing qualities must first be improved. To do this, specialized hydrophobillers are used:

• Powders: bentonite, polymer emulsion.
• Salt: Stearatas and Oleats of Metal.
• Plasticizers – resins.
• Hardening activators – chlorides

For this reason, safeguarding a concrete foundation is crucial to guaranteeing the dependability and security of the entire building. A thick layer of waterproofing is applied, starting at least 15 centimeters above the sole and rising to the top of the soil.

Pine mastic, flashing lime, and roofing material are excellent for such uses. Antiseptics are also impregnated into the entire finished coating.

How to protect the foundation and basement of houses from groundwater. Waterproofing of the foundation, drainage

Groundwater level should always be reliably protected from buildings, and this is best done during the building process. A complex of preventive measures might involve different approaches to drainage, waterproofing, etc. D. It is important to calculate and plan protective measures 50–60 cm above the ground so that groundwater can rise in the spring. It is vital to prevent surface waters from having access to the building’s basement and foundation, even if the groundwater table in the vicinity of the structure is not very high. To do this, a sidewalk or blind area is set up around the building that is currently under construction.

There are various ways to shield the foundation from groundwater. Therefore, groundwater or the absence of a basement will suffice to provide capillary moisture waterproofing for the building. In this situation, it is essential to seal off the basement walls and ensure that moisture from the earth cannot rise above ground.

When the groundwater table is higher than the basement floor, drainage is set up accordingly. Making sure that the groundwater level falls below the floor level is the aim. If there are nearby water bodies or collectors into which you can empty water from the building, all you need to do is set up drainage. In the event that the drainage device is not feasible (for instance, because of the relief’s characteristics), the basement ought to be secured with specialized waterproofing. As was already mentioned, there are various options for waterproofing depending on whether the building has a basement or not.

Waterproofing is installed in the basement of a building without a basement, two centimeters above sidewalk level and beneath floor structures. The building is protected from soil moisture by a floor prepared with concrete. An insulation layer and the preparation of the concrete should work together. A double layer of bitumen applied from the inside to the base surface serves as a binder if the preparation is situated below isolation.

The insulating layer device consists of a 1.2 cm layer of asphalt or a layer of hydrosite- or ceresitis-containing cement mortar. A 1.5 cm thick layer of the prepared solution is applied. The ratio of preparation to application is 1: 1.5. Another way to use roofing material is to place two layers with a bitumen mass in between.

At the height of the basement more than 60cm, 2 layers of isolation are laid: the first-10-15cm below the floor structures, the second-15-20cm above the level of the sidewalk. In addition to this, the inner surface of the wall, which is in contact with the soil between concrete preparation and isolation, is smeared in 2 layers with hot bitumen. If the building has a basement, waterproofing from capillary moisture is arranged at the level of the basement floor, as well as above the surface of the sidewalk by 15-20cm. To protect walls of the basement from damp, double coating on dried plaster with hot bitumen or resin is used. A cement mortar with the addition of hydrosite is also used.

Drainage should be set up if the building is subjected to groundwater pressure; however, a waterproof continuous basement shell that extends beyond the walls is also appropriate.

Above concrete preparation, crumpled clay is laid in a free pit if groundwater pressure is not too high (0.1–0.2 m). The layer is 25 cm thick. To create an asphalt or cement floor, everything is lubricated with a cement solution containing hydrosite (1: 3).

After smearing the outer surface with a solution with the addition of liquid glass, it is plastered. Prying in 2 layers of 1.5 cm cement solution with hydrosite, 50 cm above the level of groundwater. Then, over this wall, in layers of 25cm, fatty mumbled clay is stuffed, so that its upper layer is lower than a 25cm insulating layer. The weight of concrete preparation extinguishes the pressure of groundwater. In order to ensure the continuity of insulation of walls and floor, the floor in the basement should be arranged after the construction of the walls, especially in sandy soil. If the soil is clay, then the sediment occurs longer, and the continuity of isolation can be provided using a bitumen and packet lock.

A higher groundwater pressure of 0.2–0.8 m might necessitate additional floor structure loading. For this, heavy concrete is usually utilized, with a volumetric weight of 2200 kg/m3. In this instance, the thickness of the load will be twice that of the excess above the groundwater level’s basement.

In the event that groundwater pressure increases to 0.8 to 2 m, additional roller layers (three to four layers) are added to the primary waterproofing, and steel (reinforced concrete) beams are added to strengthen the reinforced concrete plate.

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Technology with which you can protect the structural base from getting wet

The basis not separated

Waterproofing is a method of preventing moisture from entering the foundation. Its type is chosen based on the built structure’s functional qualities, the region’s climate, and the surface beneath it, which will serve as the foundation for the house.

There are two varieties of waterproofing design:

• horizontal;
• Vertical.

The latter is fixed to the front face of the structure’s base. It is used, beginning in the basement or on the sidewalk. By doing this, you can shield the foundation from the damaging effects of soil waters.

To prevent moisture from penetrating the basement zone and destroying its walls, the first, horizontal version of waterproofing installation is done. Furthermore, the foundation’s treatment to keep out moisture shields it from airflows that could otherwise create an unfavorable microclimate in the space.

This shortcoming is not present in the second design option, which will be discussed later.

We will also discuss the use of hydrophobization to shield the foundation from moisture. This is the procedure for processing the structure’s base design using specialized instruments, which are silicon organic compounds that need to be diluted with water. In addition to being superior moisture-resistant materials, hydrophobizers offer dependable dust and dirt protection for the foundation.

Protection against moisture in foundations

The following benefits come from processing the foundation of structures using this method:

1. the walls that were qualitatively processed using hydrophilizers are resistant to graffiti – do not spend additional funds for repairs;
2. significant frost resistance of structures;
3. moisture repellents “do not allow” mold and fungi to the walls; The original color of building materials is preserved;
4. Hydrophobizers can even be applied to a wet base.

The protective mechanism is typified by the formation of a unique moisture-resistant coating, which is a type of thin polymer film, and is tightly packed into the pores to shield them from ambient moisture following the process of covering the foundation hydrophobisators. Furthermore, the foundation’s ability to keep out moisture is also incredibly resilient.

Distribution of the basement of the house how to make waterproofing

Oddly enough, but before proceeding to direct Finishing basement foundation Houses, It is necessary to fulfill it waterproofing. For what? The answer is all the same – protection against moisture, which is able to leak not only through the soil, but also through the seams of the facing material. In general, the waterproofing of the basement should be carried out at the stage of erecting the foundation, but, as a rule, everything is limited to isolation of only its underground part, which is mainly performed by roofing or bitumen mastic. In fact, these materials interfere with further The finish of the basement of the house, and they are, as it were, they are ignored, or at best released 10-15cm above the level of soil. In principle, this is enough to protect the foundation from destruction, but not the base of the building.

The house’s finished basement, as seen in this DIY stone image

Things change a little when it comes to waterproofing the house’s base; bitumen mastic, roofing material, and the like are not appropriate in this situation. Since almost every material used to finish a basement in a house requires a different kind of base, there are slight variations in what is needed to waterproof the building base.

Generally speaking, cement-based solutions are utilized to waterproof a home’s basement; if we are referring to the well-known Ceresit brand, comparable products are known as Ceresit CR 65 or Ceresit CR 66. Additionally, Ceresit CE 50 and CE 49 mastic have specific waterproofing primers that are based on epoxy resins. These materials are generally problem-free, and you are free to use any materials that appeal to you in terms of both cost and quality.

If we talk about the technology of waterproofing work, then there should not be any problems and there should be no problems. Primers and mastics are applied to maclovor – they are simply rubbed into the surface previously cleaned of dust and dirt. But cement solutions (like CR 65) are applied with a spatula – such protection is applied to the base of the building in two layers, each of which should completely dry. Moreover, each of the applied layers of waterproofing should be applied in different directions – if the first layer was applied from top to bottom, then the second should be laid from left to right to right. Unfortunately, this is the specifics of this material.

Typically, direct Only after waterproofing can the basement of the house be finished with stone, tiles, or any other material. Primers and mastic are more practical in this sense because they can be applied in a single layer and dry more quickly. After applying waterproofing primer or mastic, the surface can be decorated the following day. If cement-based waterproofing is used, it will not function properly before a few days.

How-to: Create a DIY waterproofing base

Signs and causes of destruction

Generally speaking, the obvious visual indicators of violations of the ground part of the structure’s integrity are the cause of the residents’ concern. Among them are:

• cracks from the outside of the walls and base;
• failures of the base of the flooring;
• longitudinal gaps on the wallpaper;
• numerous exfoliation of plaster in areas located at a short distance from each other;
• soil failures near the base;
• partial destruction of the foundation, including stratification and leaching of the walls in the basement.

There are hidden indicators in addition to obvious ones that show the foundation’s devastation process has already started. Only through specialized testing or by pure happenstance can they be identified. This is the sneaky kind of invisible issues, which could make them unsolvable.

There are multiple reasons why the basement and foundation could become deformed.

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• high groundwater level;
• the presence of swimming or heaving soils;
• heterogeneous soil composition;
• sharp temperature surges on both sides of the zero mark;
• constant dampness near the base;
• humid climate.

The majority of issues are caused by the existence of water. However, in addition to external factors, human irresponsibility also exists. One of them is linked to carelessness or ignorance that results in non-compliance with the technology for laying the foundation, and the other is linked to excessive savings.

Developers must be aware that the foundation is the basis of the future structure, therefore, in matters of frugality, reasonable decisions should be adhered.

Therefore, mistakes pertaining to the appearance of the foundation’s destruction may result in:

• with rude miscalculations;
• with the wrong choice of design;
• with insufficient sealing of the base;
• using low -quality materials;
• with a lack of waterproofing;
• with improper laying of reinforcement;
• with impaired technological processes;
• With unprofessionalism of workers.

A responsible approach to the subterranean building’s construction will help prevent many issues and guarantee a long service life for the house. It is advised to visually inspect the exterior walls, basement, and interior partitions on a regular basis if there are complex hydrogeological conditions on the site or if loads increase. This will make it easier to spot the start of harmful processes and take prompt action to stop them.

Methods for neutralizing the corrosion of the metal layer metal

Concrete and reinforced concrete corrosion-causing factors, types, and forecasting

1. During the construction of the base, all reinforcing rods are completely poured with concrete, and to eliminate any possible contacts with the environment;
2. Adhere to the rules for laying reinforcement, because it should be located at a distance of at least 2.5 cm from the surface;
3. When pouring concrete solution, eliminate air pockets and use gravel only a small fraction;
4. If the reinforcement is also installed in the soil freezing area, then special compounds and minerals are added to concrete, which block the process of metal corrosion. They also cover the metal itself with a thick layer of oxide and create an additional protection barrier.

It’s also advised to carefully review the cement’s composition, paying particular attention to its quantitative components. Generally speaking, calcium chloride concentrations exceeding 2% of the total mass mass are prohibited.

This is a significant mineral component, but it reacts with carbon dioxide to form chalk. And eventually dissolves when exposed to even weak acids. Since liquid calcium chloride is so active, the reinforcement will eventually be destroyed.

The destruction of the foundation can only be stopped by specialists with a specialized knowledge base, and the financial costs involved will be significant if we permit the excess concentration of calcium chloride.

Liquidation of cracks in the foundation

• Epoxy injection. Its essence in filling the cavities in concrete slabs, walls, a socle of synthetic or epoxy resin. First, the surface is prepared, any bulk materials are removed from it. After filling out the crack, the problem space must be tucked with brackets;
• Binding. Carried out using special belts, tapes. They included a fiber Kevlar – reinforcing carbon. The method is most often used when horizontal cracks appear, indicating the existence of excessive load. The strapping is used in conjunction with epoxy injection.

Go back to the contents table.

Waterproofing basement

Note: in this instance, mastic or comparable stucco materials are not recommended. These materials can’t even tolerate negative pressure, after all.

The most optimal option will be the so-called penetrating isolation. In this instance, moisture cannot permeate the concrete, maintaining its waterproofing properties. In order to waterproof the basement on both sides, something akin to "sour cream" must be obtained:

• Concrete will need to be moistened well, but not dry (how to dry the cellar and which method is better read in our other articles).
• The mixture will be applied to the wet surface with a brush. Thus, she will better “bother” to concrete. It is known that the material contains many active additives. When the mixture is applied to the surface, these additives will react with concrete, crystallovic masses are formed.

Be aware that more crystals will form in the concrete the more water you soak it in.

Additionally, a strong match depends greatly on their education. With the aid of crystallovic mass, pores and different types of microcracks will be filled, making concrete stronger.

Correct sealing of the concrete structure is essential for ensuring its long-term durability.

• The method of penetrating waterproofing is also very good because it is environmentally friendly. The whole process will be completely safe for the health of the master who will do this.
• Concrete after processing will pass air well, and this is very important for the health and life of people living in the house.
• When you use the method of penetrating waterproofing of the room, it is important to know that there are “special” places, very vulnerable. They will have to pay more attention.
  include: seams around the entire perimeter of the basement (where the floor joins with the walls, walls with the ceiling); seams remaining after concreting; the places where communications were introduced; holes, places of fasteners (they also need to devote more time, process it well); The seams of structures. Yes, the same ceiling in the cellar can be made in different versions.
• Many studies were conducted, as a result of which it was found that the best material for waterproofing basements is penetron. Most masters will advise to use it precisely.
  All surfaces are important to process with material penetron. This applies to vertical surfaces and horizontal surfaces. Capillary filtering of water in the basement should not be. Thanks to this material, this will be achieved.

Preparing the surface will inevitably be the first step.

How to treat a base with a roof roofing

One of the more conventional methods of waterproofing is the application of roller materials. Modern technologies have made it possible to use waterproof and stronger roofing materials like glassizol.

The most common method for installing roofing material is two layers; however, the number of layers may vary based on the soil’s moisture content. Bitumen mastics are used for vertical gluing, which is done from the bottom up over the whole height.

Keeping the mixtures within the designated temperature range is crucial when working with hot mixtures. Bitumen that has been overheated loses viscosity and becomes more prone to various defects, such as bloating, cracks, and breaks.

Go back to the contents table.

Protection of the base from

A common indicator of the forces acting on the home’s foundation are cracks in the basement.

Putting is the wintertime increase in groundwater caused by frost. It happens in soils because of the high moisture content in their structure. During the building of the house, a pillow layer made of gravel and sandy sand is applied to soils that have this kind of issue. These substances enable the soil to be confronted so that it trips.

It’s crucial to understand that a pillow of this kind will only protect the house’s foundation for a short while. It ought to be further laid around the perimeter to provide a significantly longer duration of safe operation.

Fall and springtime are when soil fusion happens. Moisture builds up around the foundation of the house and then seeps into the soil’s layers. Subsequently, the ground-seeped moisture creates a clay mixture that washes the pillow. This destructive mass will be filtered if you use the foundation’s additional protection, or the glasshold. Only water remains after the pillow has been cleaned, and it has no harmful effects.

By using a drainage system, the effects of soil heaving are lessened. It enables the soil layers’ humidity to be lowered, which lowers the amount of water. A few pipes installed in the ground with a slight slope serve as the drainage system. It is essential for improved moisture outflow. Gravel is placed on both pipe edges in order to filter the clay mass. In the sewer, the drainage system is visible.

What is the internal protection of the foundation

Different additions to the mixture of concrete

It is created during the foundation-laying phase. Generally speaking, the key to protection is selecting the right concrete mixture and enhancing its properties by adding extra ingredients.

These days, chemical modulators are widely available; it is advised to purchase and use them with caution. For instance, liggonosulfonate shields concrete from highly sulfate-containing groundwater.

Also, amorphous silica can be used to halt the cement base’s disintegration. This is regular modified sand, made with chemicals, and it has a high hygroscopic content.

Calcium oxide is substituted by silica in concrete to create silicates that are resistant to acids and alkalis. Additionally, the application of electrolytic additives neutralizes oxides and quickens the hardening and staining of concrete.

The most widely used and least expensive ones are potash, calcified soda, and alkaline metal bicarbonates.

Plasticizing chemical additives are actively used in foundation construction, where high structural strength is required below the freezing depth of the soil.

Mylonaft enhances frost resistance and waterproofing indicators, while sulfide-throat mash speeds up the hardening process. GKZh-94’s silicon solution instantly boosts frost resistance.

Polyurethane mastic from chemical storage

The Khimtrast company has created its own polyurethane mastic that can be used to repair old bitumen isolation and waterproof not only foundations but also roofs, pools, tanks, cellars, terraces, balconies, and tunnels.

You can buy Mastic "Himtrast Puma (1k)" in both wholesale and retail quantities. You can purchase a liter or three-liter can of mastic if the surface that needs to be waterproofed is not very large and you only need to make small repairs. The product is delivered to your home after you make your payment through the company’s online store on their website. You avoid wasting time wandering through markets, building supply stores, and long lineups.

Additionally, you can order mastic in a color that complements the color of your house better. The moisture resistance indicator won’t change in this situation. You can shield practically any surface from the elements with high.

Types of concrete corrosion

Concrete undergoing corrosion processes

• First view. The destruction of concrete occurs due to the effects of various aggressive environments contained in the groundwater. Due to corrosion of the upper surface of the foundation, a slow dissolution of the cement mortar occurs. Also, soil waters may contain bicarbonate, which is soluble in water, but at the same time differs in a high -albine reaction and negatively affects the sand of concrete. If the influence of groundwater occurs in the winter near the boundary of the freezing zone, then there is practically no chance of saving the foundation.
• With a different type of corrosion, chemical metabolism reactions occur, in which filling the foundation slowly dissolves, as well as the destruction of the reinforcing layer. Therefore, it is strictly forbidden to add machine oil or various saturated fats during pouring concrete using concrete mixers.
• The most dangerous is the third type of corrosion. It occurs in the process of replacing concrete salts to metabolic products, for example, sea water. In such cases, there is a mechanical expansion of concrete pores, the destruction of the supporting layers and the filling with hydrates. In most cases, this is a classic stage of destruction due to sulfates and carbonates, and the rate of concrete corrosion depends on its porosity, brand and permeability.

Upon considering all potential forms of concrete deformation, it is evident that soil and precipitation are the primary environmental factors responsible for the destruction of the base.

Therefore, superior waterproofing is the primary means of shielding concrete from the damaging effects of media.

Additionally, you must first construct a base with a sole below the freezing boundary.

A home’s longevity and structural integrity depend on its concrete foundation being shielded from damage. Water damage that causes cracks and structural weakness can be avoided by homeowners by employing waterproofing techniques like applying sealants or membranes. In order to divert water away from the house’s base and prevent the buildup of hydrostatic pressure, which can seriously harm concrete foundations, it is also crucial to ensure appropriate drainage around the foundation.

Using insulation around the foundation is another important tactic. Insulation lowers the chance of freeze-thaw cycles, which can weaken and crack concrete, in addition to aiding in temperature control within the house. Insulation panels made of foam and polystyrene are good at keeping the foundation safe from sudden temperature swings and contributing to overall home energy efficiency.

The foundation’s preservation also greatly depends on routine upkeep and observation. Periodic inspections by homeowners are recommended to look for any indications of leaks, cracks, or other damages. By identifying and fixing these problems early on, small concerns can be stopped before they become larger structural malfunctions. Its life can be greatly increased by taking easy measures like sealing joints and cracks, clearing gutters and drainage systems, and looking for vegetation growth close to the foundation.

In the end, taking precautions to shield a concrete foundation from damage not only reduces the need for expensive repairs but also raises the property’s value and safety. Through implementation of these preventive measures, homeowners can guarantee that their home will continue to be sturdy and safe for many years.

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