For your comfort and wellbeing, it is crucial to keep your house warm and inviting during the colder months. This can be accomplished, for example, by installing a water warm floor system. This creative heating solution gives your living area a luxurious touch while also guaranteeing uniform warmth distribution throughout. We’ll examine three distinct approaches to pouring water onto a warm floor in this post, giving you important information to help you make the best choice for your house.
Let’s start by discussing the conventional "wet" or "slab-on-grade" system for pouring a warm floor made of water. By encasing hydronic tubing inside a concrete slab, this method stores and disperses heat uniformly throughout the floor surface by acting as a thermal mass. To stop moisture from penetrating into the concrete, a vapor barrier is first placed. After that, the tubing is carefully arranged in accordance with the intended layout, accounting for elements like the size of the room and the needs for heat distribution. After the tubing is positioned, the slab is filled with concrete to enclose the tubing.
As an alternative, you can pour a water warm floor using the "suspended" or "joist" method. This method is perfect for adding a concrete slab to an existing house or other space where access is restricted. The tubing is installed either within a subfloor assembly or between floor joists rather than being embedded in the concrete. This approach makes it easier to access the tubing for upkeep or repairs and provides more installation flexibility. It may also be used in conjunction with insulation materials to improve energy efficiency and lower heat loss.
Finally, for those looking for a more effective and adaptable choice, the "modular" or "panel" system offers a convincing way to pour a warm water floor. This technique involves installing prefabricated panels with hydronic tubing straight onto the preexisting subfloor. Usually, these panels have grooves or interlocking mechanisms to make assembly simple and guarantee that the tubing is spaced uniformly. The modular approach is appropriate for both new construction projects and retrofitting existing homes because it provides quick and simple installation. Moreover, it permits more control over temperature and zoning, allowing you to customize comfort settings for various rooms in your house.
Method | Description |
1. Wet Installation | This method involves embedding the water tubing within a concrete or gypsum screed. The tubing is laid out evenly across the floor and secured in place before the screed is poured over it. Once the screed sets, it acts as a thermal mass, effectively distributing heat throughout the floor. |
2. Dry Installation | In this method, the water tubing is placed within grooved insulation panels, typically made of polystyrene or similar materials. The panels are then laid directly onto the existing floor, forming a stable base. Once the tubing is in place, a thin layer of self-leveling compound is applied over the panels to provide a smooth surface for flooring installation. |
3. Floating Installation | This method involves laying the water tubing on top of an existing floor surface, often using specialized panels or mats designed for this purpose. The tubing is then covered with a layer of screed or self-leveling compound to protect it and provide a level surface. Floating installations are typically quicker and easier to install, making them a popular choice for retrofitting existing buildings. |
- How to fill a warm floor
- Temperature gaps
- Preparatory work
- Tools and materials that we need to lay a warm floor
- Recommended floor screed thickness
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How to fill a warm floor
There are three methods for filling a water-warm floor correctly. While each method has unique qualities, they are all similar in process and have simple technology.
The way of filling the floor | Description | pros | Minuses |
Concrete | A common option, a cement-sand composition is used. To give greater strength of the floor design, the sand is replaced by the filler. It does not allow the base when heated. In addition, when using the filler, the thickness of the solution of the solution of from 50 to 30 mm decreases. | Strength, durability and obtaining uniform heating of the floor surface. | Significant weight of the floor and a long period of solidification. |
Semi -dry composition | The main difference – contains less water than in the first composition. Mandatory presence of polymer additives and fibrovolonoks. | The increased strength of the floor dries much faster, has less shrinkage and the resulting surface from such a composition is practically not subject to cracking. | Less plastic, because of this there may appear voids. |
Temperature gaps
The improper placement of compensation clearances is the primary cause of cracks on a concrete screed.
When laying a warm screed in a room with a complicated layout or a large area, the instructions state to divide the room into zones before pouring concrete. Although the entire space along the walls is laid, a dampfer ribbon, with a thickness of 5 to 10 cm, is required for delimitation.
Since the structure of the building is affected when it is heated, the damper tape aids in preventing damage to the heating system. In the event that the damping tape is not installed, the concrete floor screed will fracture rapidly.
By keeping an eye on these few points, you can properly equip temperature seams:
- Each zone that is enclosed by a ribbon should be no more than 30 m2, and the sides are not more than 8 meters long.
- If the room has a complex layout, it is divided into square or rectangular zones.
- In some conditions, it is allowed to be divided into 1/3 of the depth of the solution.
- After hardening the screed of the floor, the seams are sealed.
Preparatory work
Some preliminary work needs to be done on a warm water floor before filling the screed:
- Lease and clear the base;
- Install the heating system.
It is necessary to fill a warm floor after installing the entire "pie," making sure that all of its layers are laid correctly.
The layers in the "pie" of the warm water floor are laid out in the following order:
- Black screed – it is cleaned and aligned.
- Waterproofing – placed plastic film with a thickness of 200 – 250 μ.
- Thermal insulation – foamed polyethylene with foil coating is installed.
- Reinforcing mesh – it is necessary to give the strength of the design. In addition, pipes can be attached to it if the polystyrene base with bosses does not fit.
- Heating circuit (metal -plastic or polypropylene pipes with a section of 20 mm) – it is fixed either to the grid with special fasteners, or laid on polystyrene plates between the bobes.
- Reinforcing mesh – it can be laid on top of the heating system, if desired to give a greater strength of the structure.
Connecting the system to the collector is required before filling; make sure it is tight and observe how she warms up. The beacon is then installed, which helps the concrete composition produce a level base.
In this post, we’ll look at three quick and easy ways to set up a water-based underfloor heating system in your house. Warm water flooring enhances comfort and energy economy in any area, whether you’re building from scratch or remodeling an existing area. From conventional concrete screed to cutting-edge lightweight solutions like modular panels and thin-layer systems, we’ll go over the fundamentals of each technique. You can select the strategy that will work best for your needs, timeline, and budget by being aware of these options. This guide will provide you with the knowledge to make informed decisions and take pleasure in the comforting warmth of a water underfloor heating system in your home, regardless of whether you’re an experienced do-it-yourselfer or need professional assistance.
Tools and materials that we need to lay a warm floor
You must prepare the tool and buy the building material required for the task before mounting and filling the heated floor.
The primary instrument needed for the installation procedure is:
- level, better laser – it is checked by the evenness of the flooded floor;
- Shurovyrt – used for the installation of the beacons;
- punch with a nozzle for kneading the concrete composition or construction mixer;
- a capacity of 100 liters – a solution will be mixed in it;
- Reiki and rule – for leveling;
- vacuum cleaner and broom – to clean the base.
Additionally, we’ll need to buy the following construction supplies:
- Dampfer tape – for the arrangement of thermals;
- Material for insulation – used to install the thermal insulation layer;
- polyethylene film for waterproofing;
- material for the manufacture of the composition for filling (sand, cement, plasticizers, fiber) or finished mixture;
- reinforcing mesh;
- beacons;
- fasteners – to fix the contour to the reinforcement;
- Polyethylene or metal -plastic pipes;
- polystyrene slabs with bosses – if the laying of pipes will be made on them.
You must keep your personal safety in mind. Rubber boots are necessary to shield their legs from cement dust, and knee pads are necessary to prevent injuries to their knees during floor filling.
Recommended floor screed thickness
The screed that has been filled correctly has a uniform height all around. It determines the heating device’s effectiveness as well as how evenly the floor is warmed. We provide the service of determining the ideal, minimum, and maximum thickness for a floor heated by water.
As a result, only on an even black base is it appropriate to fill the warm water floor with concrete.
The dimensions of the room dictate the screed height: 5 to 8 cm for apartments, 10 cm for industrial facilities. Simultaneously, at least 1 cm is made beneath the contour and 3 cm above the pipes.
Furthermore, the following factors impact the accuracy of the thickness measurement:
- when using the usual cement-sand composition, the minimum thickness above the heating system is 5 cm;
- If pouring is made with plasticizers, its thickness above the heating element can be less than 5 cm, but not less than 3;
- When installing a structure using a reinforcing grid, a thickness of 2 – 2.5 cm is permissible, without it, not less than 3 cm.
Just so you know! Heat accumulation is one of the screed’s purposes. Consequently, the floor cools more quickly and the coolant will need to be heated more frequently when there is a thin layer present. In this context, 7 to 8 cm is thought to be the ideal thickness.
Adding a water warm floor can completely change how comfortable your house feels in the winter. You can select from three primary methods: retrofitting, dry installation, and concrete slab, depending on your unique requirements and situation.
For those constructing new homes or doing extensive renovations, the concrete slab method provides unmatched heat distribution and efficiency. The heating pipes are inserted into the concrete foundation to form a thermal mass that effectively radiates and holds heat throughout your living area.
However, dry installation can be the best choice if you’re searching for a quicker and less intrusive solution. This technique is perfect for retrofitting projects because it entails placing the heating elements on top of the current flooring. It may not provide as much thermal mass as the concrete slab method, but it is still a good heating solution that can be installed with little disturbance to your house.
For those looking to add underfloor heating to an existing building without undergoing significant renovations, retrofitting provides an option. Retrofitting enables you to install a water warm floor system on top of your current flooring, providing effective heating without having to tear up your current floors. It does this by using specialized panels or insulation boards.
The optimal technique for pouring a warm water floor ultimately depends on your needs, timeline, and financial constraints. The efficiency of the concrete slab, the ease of dry installation, or the adaptability of retrofitting—whichever your preference—underfloor heating can make a big difference in your home’s comfort and long-term value.