How to perform the installation of a passage for chimneys through the roof slabs

Although creating a chimney passage through roof slabs may seem like a difficult undertaking, it is possible to complete it effectively and safely with the correct assistance. This procedure is essential to make sure your chimney is safe for your family’s health and does not present any risks to them.

Getting all the tools and supplies needed is crucial before beginning the installation. This usually consists of the proper insulation to stop heat loss and water infiltration, flashing to seal the area around the chimney, and a saw or drill that can cut through the roofing material. It will go more smoothly if you make sure you have everything you need in advance.

Installing a chimney passage is just one of many home improvement projects where safety should always come first. To prevent mishaps, always wear safety equipment, such as gloves and safety glasses, and use ladders and scaffolding correctly. To make sure the installation is done correctly and safely, it might be best to speak with a professional if you have any doubts about any aspect of it.

Installing a chimney passage through the roof slabs correctly contributes to your home’s overall insulation and heating as well as ensuring the chimney operates properly. A properly installed passage will reduce heat loss in the winter and stop water leaks, which can cause expensive damage. A well-installed chimney passage will benefit your house for many years to come if you take your time and pay close attention to the details.

What materials can be used for fire protection in the device of FPU

The interfloor partitioning units’ metal, ceramic, and brick components are all heated to temperatures that raise the possibility of a wood fire. In order to insulate the ceiling pie’s combustible components, a protective material lining must be installed.

Material	Description
	Plate non-combustible material based on cement with the addition of limestone, mica and cellulose. Withstands constant heating up to 150°C. When exposed to higher temperatures, the organic filler of mineralite burns out and it becomes brittle.
	Under this general name is meant a fiber insulation material consisting of molten filaments of different inorganic nature. These can be both minerals (basalt, dolomite, etc.) and organic materials.), as well as blast furnace waste, slag. Slag does not lose its properties up to temperatures of 300 ° C, in a hotter environment there is sintering of fibers – binders and hydrophobizing additives are not as resistant to fire as the mineral component. As a result, the thermal conductivity increases sharply. As a fire-resistant material, the rigid mineral board of mark PZh-175 is positioned. It is capable to keep insulating properties up to 1000°С.
	Available in thicknesses from 2 to 10 mm. This is a material that perfectly protects against fire, it not only does not burn, but also does not smolder. The limitation of its use can be considered harmful – asbestos vapors are undesirable in a bathhouse. All gaskets from asbestos from the side of a steam room it is necessary to close metal.
	Highly effective and absolutely ecological heat insulator, which belongs to the group of non-combustible materials. Its thickness is 5 mm, heat conductivity coefficient slightly increases with increasing temperature, it works reliably at temperatures up to 900°C.

These are substances that, in a hot environment, can prevent wooden components from burning and scorching. However, they are not the only ones who can complete the floor’s primary facing if the required indents are followed. Materials with flammability class G1 (slightly flammable) may be used for this purpose.

Material	Description
	It has the designation GKLO, sheets of gray color with red markings. It differs from the usual one by the presence of internal reinforcement with denser adhesion of layers. This prevents the penetration of oxygen into the thickness of the material, combustion is not maintained and even in an open fire the material is not destroyed within 20 minutes.
	Only products labeled as Premium grade have fire-resistant properties of NG grade. Standard class sheet, which is not labeled in any way, cannot be used to protect wood.

Selecting the right thermal insulator can be very important. It should be kept in mind that regular mineral wool, which is occasionally advised to be used for stuffing the passage’s node, quickly loses its ability to prevent fire when heated and sintered.

Its structure is altered by high temperatures; while it keeps the same appearance, it can get very hot and can no longer withstand thermal insulation. The use of basalt wool, which is intended to function at temperatures between 800 and 1000 °C, is required to ensure dependable thermal insulation of the chimney.

Additionally, laying cardboard with basalt, asbestos, or minerite is safe. Another tried-and-true low-cost method of thermal protection involved the use of clay and sand to fill the passage box. For instance, an even layer of clay about 2 cm thick is applied to a metal sheet with flanging to provide adequate thermal insulation for the portion of the ceiling to which the box is attached.

Options for roof penetrations

Manufacturers now create a range of passage units:

• equipped with a valve;
• without dampers;
• equipped with insulation;
• without insulation;
• equipped with technology controlling the opening and closing of valves.

It is common practice to use units with manual control built into the design when using multiple ventilation modes on a regular basis is not necessary.

The manually driven assembly consists of:

• torn cloth;
• counterweight;
• cable;
• control sector.

The two primary commands "open" and "close" are used by a unique mechanism to control the valve’s position. Manufacturers utilized stainless steel sheet, which has a thickness of 0.5 to 0.8 millimeters, and black metal sheet, whose thickness does not exceed 2 millimeters, to create the roof’s passageways.

The fabrication of the passage unit may also be done using galvanized steel and insulation, which is typically in the form of a 50 millimeter-thick layer of mineral wool. Installing zinc-treated umbrellas or baffles within the system is this option. The internal device of the unit, should a fan be installed, could be constructed from perforated steel and fitted with plastic tubes that conduct electricity. The passage unit will additionally serve as a soundproofing device when installed using this method.

Safety

The first thing to consider when building a chimney in the bathhouse is safety. Because wooden structures are easily prone to spontaneous combustion when something goes wrong. If the issue is handled carefully, the bathhouse will last a very long time and there won’t be any danger to people’s lives.

The pertinent sanitary rules and regulations set forth all the requirements that chimneys must adhere to. They specify how far the pipe must be kept from any combustible areas of the roof slabs. The pipe’s specifications determine this value. Read SNiP 41-01-2003, which approves the regulations for the ventilation, heating, and air conditioning device, if you plan to build a chimney in your bathroom.

Particular attention should be paid to point 6.6.22, which has all the information you need.

SNiP 41-01-2003. Download file

You must utilize the appropriate thermal insulation materials for the chimney to be totally safe:

• mineral wool;
• basalt cardboard;
• mineralite.

Long-lasting mineral wool that is not combustible

Fiberglass magnesium sheeting and fire-resistant gypsum board are also appropriate for this use.

Gypsum board that is resistant to fire can tolerate direct fire exposure for approximately an hour.

Environmentally friendly, moisture-, fire-, and frost-resistant glass magnesium (glass magnesite) sheet (SML)

There are a few more things to consider.

As a result, it’s critical to select the materials wisely for the chimney since they need to be able to withstand high temperatures. For instance, if you want to build a chimney using metal pipes, they have to be made of non-galvanized material.

The truth is that zinc vapors are very toxic to human health when they are heated to high temperatures.

Types of UP

Kinds of constructions

The most popular kinds of wiring elements in construction are as follows:

• units with a manually operated valve;
• nodes with a valve controlled automatically;
• bushings without valve.

Notable characteristics of assemblies with manual dampers include their efficiency and ease of use. On the other hand, the mechanical valve has an integrated control mechanism that enables it to open and close on its own.

Valve-less units are typically utilized in duct type ducts that need a constant supply of fresh air because they have a permanent connection to the outside environment.

It should be noted that the UP’s dimensions for the ventilation organization are arranged in a line of values that literally differ by a few millimeters, allowing you to use many of their varieties in practice.

Pipe of rectangular or square cross-section

Since this is the most straightforward configuration to install, the brick chimney of a classic stove typically has a rectangular or square cross-section. Similar in appearance to the ceramic stove chimney’s outer shell.

The chimney channel in its standard configuration is positioned strictly vertically; however, a short horizontal section can be arranged on the attic ceiling to change the chimney’s exit point from the roof.

In the roof pie, a hole is cut out and a wooden structure is mounted, as mentioned above. After the masonry of the pipeline passing through the roof is completed, it is necessary to ensure reliable protection of the passage unit from atmospheric precipitation. From the inside, from the side of the attic room, a steel sheet is attached to decorate the place of passage (the hole in it is cut to the size of the pipe, the sheet is put on the chimney in advance). The protective-decorative plate is fixed to the edges of the support box with self-tapping screws, the joint around the perimeter of the pipe is filled with fire-resistant sealant. The box from the inside is lined with sheets of asbestos or the gap between it and the pipe is filled with basalt wool.

Rectangular-cross-section pipe

The waterproofing’s exterior edges, where a cross-shaped cut has been made beforehand, are attached to the brick pipe. Each of the ensuing triangles was cut with a 10–12 cm overlap on the chimney wall. Elastic metallized tape with an adhesive layer is used as a special material to adhere the waterproofing to the brick.

The inner apron is then installed. Four galvanized steel slats make up the structure. Instead of going into the masonry joint, the upper bent edge of each lath is placed into the brick mortar. The strips should be joined at the corners with a 15 mm overlap. Heat-resistant sealant is applied to each and every joint. Curbs should be installed on the side strips to direct the water flow downward. A metal tie, located beneath the bottom lath, allows water to drain to the nearby valley or the lower edge of the roof.

An external galvanized sheet metal apron can be installed to adorn the chimney visible through the roof. It is possible to paint the material the same color as the roof. The fixing technique is the same as for the internal construction, but for external works, it is possible to avoid a puncture by sealing the joint with a heat-resistant sealant. The apron’s edges were secured with self-tapping screws made of galvanized steel and placed on top of the roof covering.

Norms and requirements

The state has formally established the norms and regulations for the arrangement of chimney passageways through roofs because they are critical to the building’s and its occupants’ safety. The document SNiP 41-03-2003 "Thermal insulation of equipment and pipelines" considers sanitary-hygienic, fire, corrosion, and other loads on the materials and structure.

Planning for pipe routing through the roof occurs during the construction phase. In the event that the furnace is rebuilt, modified, or repaired while it is in use, the chimney is typically left in its original location. A basic requirement for a high-quality chimney is the pipe’s placement in relation to the roof’s ridge.

The roof’s highest point, the ridge, is the ideal location for the pipe outlet to ensure maximum draught. This makes it possible to route the main pipe through the attic space, shielding it from the elements and moisture. The challenge is in having to install additional supports on both sides of the chimney, which compromises the integrity of the horizontal beam. The pipe is typically led at a short distance, allowing you to restrict the street portion of the pipe to no more than fifty centimeters.

The chimney’s height is dependent on how far away it is from the ridge in the following way:

• the distance to the ridge does not exceed 1.5 m – the pipe rises above it by 50 cm;
• distance from 1.5 to 3 meters – it is enough to lead the chimney flush with the ridge;
• If the chimney outlet is more than 3 meters from the ridge, the height of the chimney can be lower than the top point of the roof (the difference should be an angle of 10 degrees).

Pipe heights should be between 0.5 and 1.5 meters. In order to preserve the integrity of the rafters, the outlet hole is positioned in the space between them, 15 to 25 centimeters away.

Kindly take note! The valley-like recess between two slopes in a complex construction is the worst place for a roof-mounted pipe outlet. The roof penetration should be shifted half a meter to the side and an additional horizontal section (up to one meter) added to the chimney if the direct vertical exit of the chimney falls on a similar merger of two roofs.

The accumulation of snow and ice in the crack throughout the winter increases the risk of leaks.

A roof penetration should be moved to the side by half a meter in order to add a horizontal section of up to one meter to the chimney in the event that the chimney’s direct vertical exit coincides with a similar merger of two roofs. Snow and ice build up in the wintertime recess, increasing the risk of leaks.

The lower portion of the roof is not the right place for the chimney’s roof passage. Here, snow and ice masses falling on the pipe could cause damage. To guarantee a proper draft, a sizable portion of the pipe must also be taken outside, which adds to the freezing and condensation that forms on the inner walls of the pipe.

Preparing the place for the ceiling penetration

A plumb line is used to locate the center point, which will hold the sandwich pipe. The location selected for the pipe’s passage is marked, and a hole is then created. To maintain aesthetics, it is advised to decorate anything you make by hand from the side of the steam room. For this, a sheet of galvanized or stainless steel will work well. It is necessary to make the sheet larger than the chimney hole.

The chimney opening should be marginally larger than the pipe that will go through it.

It’s important to consider the following while setting up the space:

• When installing sandwich construction vertically, it is worth remembering that the marking of holes is carried out first on the upper point, and then on the lower points. That is, first of all, the marking should be carried out on the roof. Performing the marking, it is necessary to use a plumb line to determine the center;
• when using production models of assemblies, it is recommended to carefully study the instructions, which usually indicate tips and preferences for installation of a particular model of ceiling trim;
• ceiling passage units for the chimney with their own hands are made using stainless steel sheets. The hole in the sheet is made 1-2 mm larger than the sandwich pipe.

Information that is helpful! The best scenario is one in which the construction project is created with the location of the chimney and heating equipment determined from the outset. In this instance, you can figure out how to install the beams beforehand and specify the space required between them so that a sandwich chimney can be installed.

The ceiling above the stove must have its design altered if the chimney is to be installed in a structure that has already been completed. The portion of the beam nearest the chimney has been hollowed out and strengthened with unique crosspieces.

What thermal insulator to use

Once the device is mounted on the ceiling, ascend to the second floor or attic and use heat insulator to bridge the space between the pipe’s outer wall and the beams.

Thermal insulation can be achieved by using basalt wool. The operating temperature range should be greater than 600°C, so make sure to check.

Clay or mineral wool can be utilized to insulate the pipe.

Some believe that this is not the best option. First, resins are used as a binder during production; these resins release formaldehyde when heated. Second, occasionally condensate leaks down the pipe. Furthermore, moisture causes mineral wool—as well as basalt wool—to lose its ability to withstand heat. Additionally, they only partially restore them after drying. Thus, it’s not the greatest choice at all.

Additionally, they use medium and fine expanded claydite to fill the penetration. It is a naturally occurring substance that weighs not too much. It dries out and regains its properties even if it gets wet. The thermal conductivity is already slightly worse than that of mineral wool when it gets wet.

Sand was used a lot back then. With one exception—that being that it progressively seeps through the gaps—the option is not terrible in any way. It’s easy to replenish the sandbox, but it annoys me when there is always sand on the stove.

Clay is a good example of a natural heat insulator. It is diluted to the consistency of paste, and the entire gap is puttied. Expanded clay is occasionally used as a filler.

Expanded clay is one of the heat insulators.

The use of clay in a bath pipe penetration is reviewed here:

Put in the rules for the section! I disassembled my sauna’s chimney. Alternatively put, I disassembled what was left: a great deal of snow fell, and it completely tore off the top of my head. The pipe has been there for seven years, so if the top needs to be replaced, the bottom needs to be examined as well. That’s it, then. Neither inside fire nor burned-out pipes are present. As soon as you insert it, that is the condition. My sinkhole is surrounded by basalt wool, and then clay is applied on top of it all. It’s unquestionably the best choice.

The usage of insulators in the passage assembly is not recommended by everyone. There is a belief that it is preferable to leave the gap unfilled because the airflow will help the pipe cool down more effectively and prevent overheating and burning. That might be the case, but the heat from the heated pipe will dry out any wood that is close by, lowering the temperature of spontaneous combustion by as much as +50°C.

The chimney has burned through, as you can see.

Overheating can be prevented in a few different ways. The first, and most sensible, is to use the heat that enters the pipe and raises its temperature to an unbearable level for its own requirements. Three choices are available:

Placing stones on the chimney is one method to prevent overheating.

1. Make a water jacket on the metal chimney, and use the hot water for showering or heating. The system is not so simple, you still need a remote tank, as well as piping, cold water supply etc.д. But the temperatures above the water jacket will not be so high, the pipe will not burn.
2. Also to warm water, but easier: put a samovar-type tank. Also hot water is provided, the chimney is not overheated protected. But here are its own nuances: do not allow boiling, in time to drain heated, add cold. And it is not quite convenient to do this, since the tank is located high: above the heater on the pipe.
3. Adapt a grid for stones. Water will have to be heated in a different way, but the plus here is the following: the stones dry the sauna after the end of the procedure. Here, too, difficulties may arise: the weight of stones is considerable, it is unlikely to be possible to do without a support, unless you use the factory version (on the right in the picture). In the homemade version, a structure for redistributing the mass will be needed.

The temperature of the pipe in the ceiling passage is considerably reduced when employing any of these techniques. The likelihood of burning goes very small. But that’s not all. There is a method; just use air to cool. To do this, a larger diameter pipe is placed over the insulated pipe. The top and bottom are made into a grid, through which air enters and exits. You can use it in the laundry room, but not in the steam room as it will remove all the steam. The approach works particularly well in the roof passage and attic.

Designation of the passage nodes

Roof penetration placement for ventilation is done in compliance with GOST 15150.

The main purpose is considered the removal of contaminated air. The device of roof penetration for ventilation is made according to GOST 15150. It regulates the distance from the node to the edge of the slab and the size of the holes in the floor slabs. In addition to ventilation, the passage units can be used for chimneys in those houses where there are fireplaces or stove heating. In some cases this is referred to as roof penetrations.

The duct passage units can be any of the following, depending on the type of ventilation and roof construction.

• square;
• oval;
• round;
• rectangular and so on.

Their patterns resemble gaps in the slabs of flooring. They are filled with metal pipes that are either mounted directly on the roof or on cups made of reinforced concrete. There must be a minimum of 1 mm of metal used. The ventilation assemblies produced by the industry come in a broad range of lengths and thicknesses. Both forced and natural ventilation systems can be connected to the pipes’ respective ventilation systems. Prior to selecting a type, consideration must be given to the following factors:

• humidity;
• the level of gassing;
• minimum and maximum air temperature in the house;
• dust level, etc.

Insulated valve in a passage unit.

When utilizing reinforced concrete installations, ventilation passage units are installed by fastening them to anchor bolts. The latter are built with them mounted inside the cups. Several factors are taken into account when calculating the installation:

• roof pitch ;
• the distance from the passage to the ridge of the roof;
• slab thickness;
• The material used in the construction of the roof;
• dimensions of the under-roof space.

If the slab is made of reinforced concrete, specific slabs with pre-made holes are used in the area where the passage will be located. If the diameter of the hole does not match the integrity of the hollow or ribbed core slab, sections of monolithic concrete should be placed in place of the device passage.

The penetration on a metal light frame roof will be identical, but the cups need to be made of metal. The nodes are located during the design phase of a building if it is large in area and serves civil, industrial, and residential purposes.

About ventilation ducts

Different kinds of ventilation systems exist, including:

• without dampers;
• with dampers;
• with thermal insulation;
• without thermal insulation;
• with a controller monitoring the position of the dampers.

When continuous control over the operating modes of the system is not required, manual adjustment systems are employed. This ventilation system control technique includes:

The damper is operated by an electric single-turn mechanism that opens and closes it. 0.8 mm thick stainless steel is used to make the valve itself.

The galvanized steel base on which the nodes through the soft roof are mounted is put in place along with a layer of thermal insulation. Mineral wool works well for this purpose; the warm material shouldn’t be any thinner than 5 cm. Subsequently, the heat insulator—an aerodynamic device attached to the top of the ventilation or smoke exhaust pipe—may be modified to accommodate specific deflectors. intended to distribute the recycled air flow that is released. The electrical wiring is run through plastic tubes that are run inside once the ventilation blade installation is finished.

When placed correctly, a unit will last a long time and even block out outside noise.

Read also on the topic:

Passage through the roof of the brick chimney

The passage of the chimney through the roof must solve simultaneously two not the simplest tasks: to ensure fire safety and tightness. According to fire safety rules in places of contact of the chimney with combustible materials, the temperature of the walls of the chimney should not be higher than 50oC. For brick chimneys this is solved by increasing the wall thickness. For this purpose, stove workers lay out a special passage. There is no single solution here, as much depends on the slope of the roof. That"s why this option is not very popular today – it is hard to find a person who can competently and safely make such a passage through the roof.

A box formed of extra rafters and cross beams surrounds the brick chimney on all sides as it passes through the roof.

How the question is solved then? They just make a square or rectangular pipe, which is led between the rafters, over the pipe and under it set cross beams. The distance between the chimney and wooden elements of the structure is 13-25cm. If the distance between the rafters is greater, additional rafters are installed. Thus minimizes the damage that we are bound to cause to the waterproofing and vapor barrier of the roof: to remove the pipe will have to break the integrity of the films and membranes. When installing a chimney, it is in a separate box. The foils and membranes inside this box are carefully cut. The geometry of the cut is similar to the geometry of the pipe or box, but smaller than the size of the box of rafters. In the corners of the film cut at an angle (envelope), the edges of the films folded and fixed with staples or clamping strips to the elements of the rafter system. Edges and entry points of fasteners are sealed with adhesive tapes or sealants. This operation should be carried out carefully – it affects the durability and reliability of the roof.

There is an alternative. If the pipe’s temperature in the roof’s vicinity is not greater than 50 degrees Celsius, then it is feasible. In this instance, sealants or the same adhesive tapes can be used to adhere the foil edges to the pipe, attempting to seal as much of the pipe as possible. The brick chimney and the rafters are no longer in contact. Heat-resistant heat insulator is used to lay it.

Diverting water from the joints

If a rigid roofing material is used, sealing the joint between the brick pipe and the roof will be the most challenging.

Waterproofing is an issue that must be resolved before leading the chimney through the roof. Two aprons are used in this system: a decorative apron and a bottom apron.

The bottom apron is first installed around the chimney. It typically has four parts: two side, upper, and lower parts, and is made of tin. Watch the video below to learn how to do it. Everything is explained in great depth.

There are generally endless materials and installation methods for passage units. Another video that shows off an additional method of waterproofing the brick chimney. Here, contemporary materials are used to create "Ondulina" manufacturers.

Using soft tiles or another type of flexible, soft roofing material will make waterproofing the intersection of the chimney pipe and the roof much simpler. This is just a matter of bending and trimming it onto the plastered pipe that has been impregnated for improved adherence. A clamping strip can be used to secure everything after a coat of sealant has been applied along the bent roofing material’s edge. Sealant is also applied to the pipe, lath, and junctions where roofing material meets. The method for caulking a chimney with soft tiles is shown in this video.

Design of the joints of the roof covering to the pipe

When a solid foundation for the placement of the roofing material adjacent to the chimney is prepared, you can move forward with installing the coating sealing components.

Depending on the roofing material selected, the chimney’s roof covering system may have a different design. The elements that make up the design of the abutment are assigned functions that include drainage and redirection of water flows from the roof’s ridge to the pipe from above, as well as sealing and waterproofing the joints of the roof covering and ventilation or chimney pipes.

Ideally, the layout of such a neighbor should be decided upon at the time the rafter system and roofing "pie" are being designed. The truth is that some options require installing specific structural components prior to installing the roof covering.

When designing the project, consider the location, shape, and material of the chimney in addition to the type of roofing material that will be used to cover the roof.

Expert builders typically advise against using anything other than ready-made structures—manufactured by roof covering manufacturers—for joint arrangement. However, a lot of artisans would rather create these components by hand.

One of the variations on the handcrafted, rectangular-cross-section brick chimney junctions between the roof and the building. Making such a "kit" out of galvanized sheet is simple.

It should be mentioned that the chimney has the easiest seal because it passes through the roof right on the ridge line. This reduces the possibility of leaking roofing in what is possibly the most vulnerable area of the junction because it prevents rainwater from collecting here and snow deposits from building up above the chimney’s back wall during the winter.

The chimney is situated almost directly behind the ridge element, close to the ridge line, so it won’t be difficult to arrange a dependable adjacent roofing material. Additionally, there is a tiny area above the chimney that keeps snow and water from building up.

Rain or melting water won’t build up in this area thanks to an extra gutter that redirects the flow of the roof over the chimney.

However, it is far more challenging to properly seal a chimney that is situated in the center or lower portion of the roof slope. Particularly dependable waterproofing is required in this situation. Thus, as can be seen in the above illustration, it is often necessary to construct an additional pitched structure, particularly in cases where the roof is covered in soft bitumen roofing. The water flows will be diluted by this unique kink in the roof and directed along the chimney’s side walls. Guttering is the term commonly used to describe these protective extensions to the chimney.

The chimney’s position on the valley line is arguably the worst one. Even when designing the roof structure, ventilation ducts, and chimneys, it is preferable to avoid allowing a precise pipe route through the roof.

Of course, the abutment surrounding the chimney that approaches the middle or lower region of the valley is the most challenging to qualitatively equip. In this instance, the pipe will be in the way of clearly defined streams of water that, when it rains or melts, will flow into the gutter at the intersection of the slopes.

In this instance, it is crucial to consistently seal the pipe’s side lines in addition to its back side. As a result, it is imperative to make every effort during the design phase to avoid placing the pipe in such a location.

Now, in order to address the most frequently asked questions during the roof assembly process, it is required to take into account multiple options for caulking the roof’s pipe penetrations.

Carrying out works on a rigid roof

To set up a ventilation duct node through the roof, covered in corrugated board, shingles, or other rigid roofing materials.ο.) employ a square, heat-insulating material-filled sandbox-style structure. To shield the thermal insulation from moisture that falls directly on the pipe, it ought to have a tiny flap.

Four sections of the apron, which will eventually cover the line that borders the pipe on all sides of the roof, should be installed around the metal rectangular sleeve. Install the side pieces first, then the bottom portion, and finally the apron element on top. The apron’s horizontal section, which is higher than the others, ought to be positioned beneath the roofing material. The bottom and side components, in addition to the rest, are fixed to the roof.

It is advised to review the industrial unit of ventilation transition through the roof’s design and adhere to the manufacturer’s instructions before beginning installation.

A tie is a long roof gutter that the roof structure has to supply. It is frequently possible to install the ventilation duct assembly without the need for such a component. It is advised that you speak with a qualified roofer to get clarification on this matter.

Although the apron can be bought already constructed, it is not hard to assemble one yourself. Zinc-coated roofing tin with a 0.5 mm thickness is used for this. Using thicker roofing material is not recommended because it will be more difficult to bend to the required shape.

It is advised to insulate a portion of the ventilation channel because the temperature differential between the air inside and outside the ventilation system can cause condensation inside the building.

However, due to its lack of reliability, thin tin shouldn’t be used for this purpose. The apron’s dimensions ought to line up with the roofing material’s wave size. The horizontal portion of the apron is made three times the length of the wave, and the vertical portion is made as long as two roofing waves for the installation of the transition point beneath the metal tile.

These measurements are meant to produce an adequate apron overlap on the coating’s sloping plane and the pipe’s horizontal plane to stop even unintentional splashes from penetrating beneath the roofing material. Additionally, the aprons are put together with the element installed from top to bottom overlapping with the element below it. Although it is ideal to have elements overlap by the width of one of them, this is not always possible.

Therefore, it will be difficult to install the parts in the proper position here because the overlap of the apron’s top and side elements will be hidden under the roofing material. However, since there is no issue when the apron’s side and bottom overlap, it is advised to precisely match the necessary measurements.

Metal scissors can be used to adjust the apron parts’ dimensions if needed after installation. Flanging ought to be limited to the upper and lower portions. This kind of adjustment is not required for the lower one because the moisture from it goes down to the roof slope and maybe to the tie.

Proper installation of the ventilation duct’s transition node will ensure that the under-roof space is consistently shielded from moisture and precipitation.

Installing this component on top of the roof will maximize the removal of moisture. In this case, the lower apron piece should be bent slightly in the direction of the tie. A bottom flange will also be required. The apron’s bottom flap is not required if the design does not allow for the installation of the tie, but the moisture outlet needs to be enlarged.

Installation of the passage unit with your own hands

After the ducts are installed inside the building, placement begins, ideally concurrently with the installation of the roof covering. The technology allows gaskets or sealants made of rubber or silicone to be used. Plan of action:

1. The ventilation pipe passage through the roof is located at its node. In order to avoid harming the rafter system, the final segment of the duct should be as close to the ridge as feasible (offset purlins are allowed). A condensate removal cover is provided at the nearest lower bend.

2. Using a template, the roofing is carefully measured and cut. Overstepping the edges is not admissible because the cut-out hole’s diameter is 30 mm larger than the ventilation outlet spigot’s cross-section. Particular care must be taken when working with metal or profiled sheet: all work must be done by hand, starting with the material being drilled inside the marked boundary and ending with the hacksaw blade being inserted. Remove all of the pie’s layers with the same caution.

3. Attaching the ducting’s bottom flanges, pulling through, and connecting the ducting from the attic side.

4. Installing a spigot and using fiberglass or minwool to insulate the pie’s interior layers.

5. Encircling the pipe with the protective apron.

6. Attaching the skirt, fastening its edges to the roof with self-tapping screws, and caulking the pipe junction with clamps and seals. Sealant is used to fix the protective cap on clad and soft roofs.

7. Mounting a canopy to shield the ducts from outside debris.

The manufacturer’s instructions are the primary source of information during installation. These units should not be installed in areas where snow or moisture collects because they compromise the structural integrity of the pie and seriously jeopardize the roof’s tightness. If the attic has natural ventilation and no air ducts, the layers of waterproofing and vapor barriers are installed concurrently with other constructions, and they are secured to the passage pipe using adhesive tape.

Special consideration is given to the apron and sealant positioned beneath the skirt when installing on roofs with curved surfaces. The latter’s shape ought to replicate every curvature of the shingle or corrugated board wave.

A sheet of galvanized metal is used to cut the apron. Its lower edge ends 35–45 cm below the roof’s pipe outlet point, while its upper edge is tucked under the ridge strip. Braces and brackets are used to further secure products that protrude strongly; this step is not required for products that are shorter than 30 cm.

Concrete cups are used for UEs on buildings with flat roofs. The project creates specific holes in the floor slabs for them to be led through, and then they are sealed with regular cement mortar and liquid waterproofing. Protective canopies must be installed; the more dependable they are, the better.

Any type of ventilation unit is subject to periodic inspections for loss of tightness, and any necessary strengthening measures are implemented promptly.

Chimney passage with a round cross-section

If the decision was made to use a pipe with a round cross-section, then special sections made by companies are typically used to guarantee a tight connection to the roof and remove the possibility of leaks and heat loss. They have a look similar to corrugated cuffs with large margins. They are constructed of rubber, but it’s a unique kind that can withstand heat. Aluminum sections are also for sale. Their easy replication of the metal tile’s corrugated profile and ability to be fastened with both adhesives and fasteners make them convenient to use.

Seal for a chimney

As an aside! The installation of antennas, masts, ventilation shafts, and other components that compromise the roof’s integrity all require similar penetrations.

A 20% smaller hole than the pipe’s diameter was cut in the synthetic rubber passage. After that, it is stretched over the pipe itself (you can use a soap solution on the pipe to make this process easier). After that, the rubber product is pressed up against the roof and secured to it using roofing screws spaced approximately 3.5 centimeters apart and sealant.

Passage of a round chimney pipe through a wooden ceiling with the help of a different design of FPU

It is feasible to use a pre-made ceiling-pass assembly to allow the chimney to pass through wooden structures (see photo). It is chosen in accordance with the pipe’s outer diameter. This ceiling passage unit needs to be prepared before installation. All internal surfaces of the passage box and any surfaces that will come into contact with the ceiling sheathing wood need to be lined with thermal insulation.

Assembled ceiling ducting from a factory. Before using, it needs to have insulating material applied to all sides but the front.

Thermal insulation is typically provided by basalt wool, but for it to work in high temperatures, it needs to be unique. Ensure that the material you purchase is intended for use at temperatures between 800 and 1000 degrees Celsius. Although these materials are more expensive, it makes no sense to compromise safety. Less expensive options contain binders in their composition that sinter at high temperatures, rendering the insulation completely useless and increasing the risk of fire. Using a foil heat insulator is also recommended as it will increase construction safety.

Having insulated the passage unit, prepare the place for its installation. Mark on the ceiling where the chimney will be located. Outline a hole of a suitable size: slightly smaller than the size of the front panel of the pass-through unit, so that it is convenient to fix it to the ceiling lining with self-tapping screws. After cutting out the hole, cover its edges with the same thermal insulator as the passage unit or any other insulator with similar properties. To increase the fire safety level, you can fix strips of metal over the heat insulator. In the finished hole you insert the prepared passage unit. It can be put on the pipe and installed together with it. Having put this construction in place, fix the panel of the passage unit with self-tapping screws (holes can be drilled beforehand).

Ceiling passage installation and preparation

After verifying that the chimney pipe installation is vertical, you move on to the next step of the process. Thermal insulation fills the remaining spaces in the passage assembly. You can use expanded clay to fill the spaces or use fragments of the same basalt wool. In theory, sand can be used, but it is not worth the effort. It loses its ability to retain heat, and expanded clay and basalt wool will eventually sink to the bottom due to gaps that allow sand particles to fall into the furnace.

Whether you led the chimney in the attic or on the second story will determine what has to be done next. However, appearance and finishing options are the primary differences. This ceiling-to-attic passage can be deemed finished if the chimney pipe is led there. If you moved the chimney to the attic or second story, you should install a metal screen for protection on the pipe. This screen is now fastened to the floor using the same screws. The output through the next ceiling (if you are on the second floor) or through the roof (if you are in the attic or attic) is the next step after that.

This is the completed form of the ceiling penetration.

This shape can also be found in the ceiling-mounted chimney. This version, which comes in two boxes, is ready to use. The outer box is composed of heat-resistant material (minerite in this case), while the inner box is made of metal.

Roof passage assembly made of minerite. It is fully operational.

Fire safety is ensured by the air gap between them. The manufacturers state that thermal insulator does not need to be inserted into the remaining empty space between the sandwich pipe and the partition box. For increased dependability, you can either add heat-resistant thermal insulation or leave everything as is. It is preferable to have excess insurance in situations like this—such as when a chimney passes through a wooden ceiling—than to extinguish the fire after it has started.

The installation of the minerite roof passage unit looks like this. Just slide the pipe on and insert it using the ready method.

You can also have something similar to this passage assembly through the ceiling (see photo). In this instance, caulking the perimeter of the ceiling hole is required (keep in mind, metal is on top of the thermal insulation, first).

The factory passage assembly may have a distinct appearance. There are slight variations in the installation method depending on the shape.

Installing a passage for chimneys through the roof slabs is a crucial step in ensuring the safety and efficiency of your home"s heating system. Proper installation not only prevents leaks and drafts but also maintains the integrity of the roof structure. Start by carefully measuring and marking the location where the chimney will penetrate the roof. Use appropriate tools to cut a precise hole through the slabs, ensuring it matches the diameter of the chimney flue. Next, install a chimney pipe or flashing kit designed for roof penetration to create a watertight seal around the opening. Secure the chimney pipe with brackets or supports to ensure it remains stable. Finally, seal any gaps or joints with high-temperature silicone or roofing cement to prevent water infiltration and maintain insulation. Always follow local building codes and consult professionals if you"re unsure about any step of the process to guarantee a safe and effective installation.

Peculiarities of installation of a typical construction

The installation of ventilation communication nodes for industrial production is done in compliance with GOST-15150 standards. It is generally accepted that the flow’s humidity should not be higher than 60% and that the air temperature inside the communication pipe should not rise above 80 degrees.

When selecting the shape of the duct and the type of transition unit, it is important to consider that the ventilation pipe’s passage through the roof typically has a square configuration.

Indicators such as the slope’s angle and the separation between the element and the roof’s ridge should be considered when determining the passage’s node. The following modifications can be made to a standard passage unit:

• with or without condensate ring;
• with or without insulated or conventional damper;
• with manual or mechanical control for the damper;
• with or without spark protection, etc.п.

Depending on the circumstances, the options on the list may change. For instance, if the system is stable and does not require ongoing adjustment, there is no need to install a mechanical valve. Customization is another option for a roof penetration unit.

Industrial facilities often make a wide variety of roof penetrations, which are chosen based on the pipe’s size and the features of the roof.

These kinds of structures are composed of polymers, black steel (1.5–2 mm thick) and stainless steel (0.5–0.8 mm thick). The completed transition unit may have a square, rectangular, oval, or round cross-section. The particular model chosen is determined by the ventilation pipe’s specifications and the kind of roofing material.

Even though passage units manufactured abroad are typically of excellent quality, it does not hurt to carefully consider the offerings of domestic manufacturers because they are not always suited to the local climate. Typically, they have the following labels:

• The letters UP with an index from 1 to 10 indicate a design without condenser ring and valve;
• indices from 2 to 10 indicate devices with manual valve, no ring;
• The designation UPZ is assigned to devices with a special site for the actuator for the valve, which is provided by the design.

The pre-assembled transition node models include bolts and nuts embedded in them that fasten to wooden structures and reinforced concrete tumblers that are meant to be installed. Mineral wool works well as thermal insulation, and it’s best to cover it with a fiberglass cloth for protection.

If installing a ventilation unit with a safety valve is required, you should be mindful of the spigot that is intended for that purpose. The valve should be fastened to this element’s bottom flange.

The purpose of the upper flange is to secure the duct’s position. Struts are fastened with clamps and brackets.

A skirt ought to be used to further shield the ventilation riser from moisture. The spigot and condensate collector are welded together. The ventilation duct’s purpose is to eliminate moisture from the air masses that pass through it. A mechanical unit that is installed on the designated shelf is used to control the valve.

To maintain the integrity of the ductwork, this component shouldn’t be placed next to the condensate collection ring. Typical node models are typically installed prior to the commencement of roofing work: the ventilation system’s air ducts are installed first, followed by the passage, and finally the roof.

It is advised to seal all joints, including the location where the unit’s components adjoin the roof covering, once the work is finished. To achieve this, it is essential to:

• Clean the surfaces of the pipe and the roof from dirt;
• seal the lower part of the duct and the adjacent section of the roof with foil paper;
• fill the holes with sealing compound.

By taking these steps, the structure’s thermal insulation will be increased and the passageway will be shielded from moisture.

Requirements for the place of passage

Naturally, it is important to make sure that the ventilation system or any other pipe that passes through the roof is sufficiently tight to prevent moisture from entering the building. It is imperative that this unit does not stop rain from dripping off the roof. The availability of trustworthy thermal insulation is yet another crucial factor.

A deflector should be used to shield the pipe from moisture intrusion from above. Though they are not as stringent as the regulations for chimneys, there are some length requirements for the ventilation pipe to guarantee adequate draught inside the building.

An exhaust fan is frequently used to force air exchange during ventilation, and it is also placed close to the transition point. Moreover, there should be a dependable safeguard against precipitation and other environmental influences for this mechanism. Furthermore, it is essential to make sure the appliance is earthed.

This node’s improper installation frequently results in inadequate precipitation removal from the surface, which can quickly deteriorate the roofing material. If an apartment building’s ventilation duct crosses a slope to the roof, a lot of problems could arise.

It might be necessary to add extra components to the ventilation duct node through the roof in order to better remove moisture, shield the building from precipitation, etc.

To minimize obstruction to water runoff, it is preferable to place the node along the slope. A sizable transition node situated along the ridge is the ideal location. By choosing this option, installing extra components to lessen the ventilation pipe’s resistance to precipitation is not necessary.

The front apron being positioned beneath the roofing sheet is a major installation error. An apron is a structure that ensures the roof and pipe walls fit tightly together. Water will flow through the gap and into the roof cake and attic space if the lower portion of the apron is led under the roof.

The installation of other comparable devices, such as chimneys, can be done using the same installation principles that apply to the transition unit of ventilation systems.

Lack of thermal insulation layer contributes to the temperature difference, which contributes to the formation of condensation on the surface of ventilation pipes. This condition may eventually result in rust accumulation, mold, oxides, and damage to the building material2.

A deflector cap is required to guard the exterior of the ventilation pipe that protrudes above the roof from moisture and precipitation infiltration.

An "otter," or thickening, is typically present in older ventilation ducts to allow heated air to slightly cool before entering the roof. Condensation is less likely as a result of the smaller temperature differential between the air and roof communications.

Aprons are used in modern homes to hermetically seal the space between the pipe and the roof. A bolt cutter is used to form the cuts needed for the aprons to be installed. Mineral wool or another appropriate material can be used to insulate metal and plastic pipes.

It is advisable to select an industrial model of the transition unit for a round ventilation duct as it will be challenging to construct such a device yourself.

Occasionally, a metal or wooden box is employed for this function. The option of setting up a passage through the roof should be taken into consideration right away when designing a ventilation system. Experts point out that it is far simpler to lead a pipe with a square or rectangular cross-section outside than one with a circular design.

A square sleeve is typically placed on top of the ventilation pipe to guarantee a sufficiently tight adhesion of the pipe to the roofing material. It is possible to direct roof ventilation to nearly any practical height. Here, too, there are no unique fire safety regulations.

The installation of the ventilation system comes after the chimney and ventilation node are installed through the roof, but before the roofing pie and shingling are completed.

But, the structure must be long enough to ensure that the passage node is firmly fastened to every component of the roof.

Take note of how far the pipe’s edge is from the deflector that is fixed above it. It ought to be sufficiently big to allow the air masses traveling through the ventilation duct to flow freely.

Passage through the metal roofing

A polymer layer covers a sheet of steel, copper, or aluminum to create metal tile. They resemble evenly spaced natural tiles that have been stacked. This kind of roofing is highly well-liked. We have previously discussed the use of flexible adapters if round pipe is to be held through a metal tile. When dealing with variations of square or quadrangular brick pipes, an alternative execution technique is employed. Included in it are the following:

1. The connecting unit is made. It consists of two aprons – an inner (main) and an outer (decorative) apron. The material of manufacture is a thin aluminum sheet or tin plate.
2. Before laying the metal tile, the inner apron is installed on the purlin. These are 4 strips located on 4 sides of the pipe. They simultaneously go under the metal tile (not less than 250 mm) and on the pipe (not less than 150 mm).
3. Apron elements are installed in a groove – a groove that is cut along the perimeter of the pipe to a depth of 10 to 15 mm. The groove is cleaned out and filled with fire-resistant sealant.

A unique groove needs to be cut in the pipe in order to install the apron.

1. The apron is fixed to the pipe using heat-resistant dowels. The joints between the four strips are soldered. On the slats that are on the sides, the edges are made, the purpose of which is to divert water downward.
2. The lower part of the apron is installed on the so-called tie – a sheet of metal with the presence of edges. This ensures that the water from the chimney is drained to the bottom of the roof. The width of the tie should be larger than the chimney by at least 0.5 m on both sides. Its length depends on the distance from the pipe to the edge of the roof.
3. After the installation of the tie and the inner apron, the metal roofing is laid.
4. The outer apron is mounted on top. Usually it is a corrugated sheet made of lead or aluminum. In its upper part there is a decorative strip. It is attached to the chimney with self-tapping screws. Fixing point – slightly higher than the inner apron parts. Before fixing the decorative strips, the attachment points are smeared with sealant. To attach the corrugated sheet, its back side is provided with a self-adhesive coating.

Completed stove pipe passing through the metal roof You might find this interesting! Read about in the article found at the provided link.

Passing a round chimney pipe through a wooden ceiling using differently designed FPU"s

An assembled ceiling-pass assembly can be used to get around the chimney in wooden structures (see photo). It is chosen in accordance with the pipe’s outside diameter. This ceiling passage unit needs to be prepared before installation. All internal surfaces of the passage box and any surfaces that will come into contact with the ceiling sheathing wood need to be lined with thermal insulation.

Ceiling penetration unit that is prefabricated. It needs to have heat-insulating material wrapped around it from all sides, save the front, before using.

Thermal insulation is typically provided by basalt wool, but for it to work in high temperatures, it needs to be unique. Make sure the material you purchase is intended to be used at temperatures between 800 and 1000 degrees Celsius. Although these materials are more expensive, it makes no sense to compromise safety. Less expensive options contain binders in their composition that sinter at high temperatures, rendering the insulation completely useless and raising the risk of fire. Using a foil heat insulator is also recommended as it will increase construction safety.

Having insulated the passage unit, prepare the place for its installation. Mark on the ceiling where the chimney will be located. Outline a hole of suitable size: slightly smaller than the size of the front panel of the passage unit so that it is convenient to attach it to the ceiling lining with self-tapping screws. After cutting out the hole, cover its edges with the same thermal insulator as the passage unit or any other insulator with similar properties. To increase the level of fire safety, you can reinforce strips of metal over the heat insulator. Insert the prepared passage unit into the prepared opening. It can be put on the pipe and installed together with it. Having put this construction in place, fix the panel of the transition unit with self-tapping screws (holes can be drilled beforehand).

Installing and getting ready for the ceiling penetration

After verifying that the chimney pipe installation is vertical, you move on to the next step of the process. Thermal insulation is positioned in the passage node’s remaining voids. You can use expanded clay to fill the spaces or use fragments of the same basalt wool. In theory, sand can be used, but it is not worth the effort. It loses its ability to retain heat, and expanded clay and basalt wool will eventually sink to the bottom due to gaps that allow sand grains to fall into the furnace.

Whether you lead the chimney in the attic or on the second story will determine what has to be done next. However, the finishes and their availability make a major difference. This ceiling-to-attic passage can be deemed finished if the chimney pipe is led there. A metal screen for protection was placed on the pipe, which is now fastened to the floor using the same screws, if the chimney in the attic or on the second story was removed. The output through the next ceiling (if you are on the second floor) or through the roof (if you are in the attic or attic) is the next step after that.

This is the completed form of the ceiling passageway.

A ceiling-mounted chimney may take one of the following shapes. This version, which comes in two boxes, is ready to use. The outer box is composed of heat-resistant material (minerite in this case), while the inner one is made of metal.

Mining penetrator for roofs. It is entirely operational.

To ensure fire safety, there is an air gap between them. The manufacturers state that thermal insulator does not need to be inserted into the remaining empty space between the sandwich pipe and the partition box. You can either add more heat-resistant thermal insulation for increased reliability, or you can leave everything exactly as it is. When something like this happens—the chimney going through the wooden ceiling, for example—it is preferable to have insurance than to put out the fire later.

The minerite roof penetration unit is installed in this manner. Put it on the chimney and insert it using the method that has been prepared.

This is another possible design for the ceiling penetration unit (see photo). In this instance, caulking the perimeter of the ceiling hole is required (keep in mind, metal is on top of the thermal insulation, first).

The passage’s factory assembly may have a different appearance. There are slight variations in the installation method based on shape.

Constructing a roof-mounted chimney passage

Video on the topic

Ceiling passage for chimney installation

Ceiling passage for a chimney in a bathhouse

Installation of the chimney according to the rules. Ceiling penetration unit (CU) according to SP 7.13.130

Chimney through the roof. Is it possible to install Master Flash for a chimney?

How to Make a Slab Passage in a Bathhouse? Instructions for making the FPU for Sandwich Chimney Installation.

Chimney bypass on a metal tile roof. Fragment of a movie about installation of metal roof tiles. UNIKMA.