How to overlap the stove with tiles

If the stove no longer looks as tidy as it once did, or if this kind of cladding was anticipated in advance—even during building planning—how can one cover it with tiles? This kind of question frequently comes up among private home owners when they are repairing the space where the old furnace is located, or when the new furnace is finished and has dried.

How to lay tiles over the stove

Some owners would rather have their stoves plastered and then painted or whitewashed, but this is a less durable finish that will need to be updated in a few years. However, a properly installed tile will endure for more than ten years.

The stove’s tile finish is applied to maintain the plaster layer in addition to giving the building an attractive appearance. In this instance, the primary barrier preventing combustion products from entering the room through brick seams is the plaster.

Furthermore, the stove tile has a high heat capacity and, when heated on its own, keeps the room warm for an extended period of time rather than allowing the brick furnace as a whole to cool down rapidly.

Tiles were previously only laid on top of the solution. These days, some artisans create new techniques that even let you swap out the worn-out or damaged decorative elements for a fresh facing material that matches the room’s overall style, such as a more intriguing design. If any tile on the stove wall gets unintentionally damaged and needs to be replaced, the same procedure can help.

You must give careful thought to the intricacies of technology in order to determine which course of action to take and which method of facing will be the most feasible.

Furnace surrender is an excellent alternative as well! In the past, brick stoves were painted white for every significant holiday and plastered with clay solutions. For centuries, people have tried and tested this method. Every now and then you can push yourself to the limit if the plaster is applied correctly and the solution is made with high-quality materials. Read the special publication on our portal to find out how to plaster an oven correctly.

However, there are some preparatory steps that must be taken before beginning finishing work. These steps are equally crucial for the furnace’s safe operation and for laying high-quality tile.

Preparation for stove cladding tiles

First things first, make sure you have all the tools you’ll need to finish and prepare the surface.

Work tools

Equipment needed to complete the stove tile

From the necessary tools:

– toothed – to apply and disperse tile adhesive. The ideal height for teeth is 5 to 6 mm;

– a consistent direct average size for wiping off surfaces;

– corner – for the way the structure’s corners are designed;

Rubber is used to seal tile seams when applied over glue.

  • Tiles and a grinder .
  • Metal line.
  • Simple pencil or marker for marking.
  • Building level, plumb.
  • Capacity for glue.
  • Electrodegol and a mixer nozzle for kneading adhesive mass.

Before you install tiles without glue, you must get ready:

  • Wooden or rubber hammer for making corners.
  • Scissors for metal.
  • Device (leaf -bend conductor) for making corners of the desired size. It is collected from a thick wooden beam and a steel strip equal to the thickness of ceramic tiles, plus 1.5 ÷ 2 mm.
  • Stilper, rivets, drill with a set of metal drills.

Materials for preparatory and finishing work

In addition to the tile itself, different building materials will be needed for each installation method.

Therefore, to install ceramic tiles using glue, you’ll need:

  • Heat -resistant glue designed for facing fireplaces and furnaces.
  • Primer.
  • Gruel for seams between tiles.
  • Skirting board.

When installing tiles "dry," that is, without the use of glue, you must get ready:

  • Sheets of galvanized steel with a thickness of 0.6 – 0.9 mm.
  • Aluminum or steel corner for closing angles.
  • Aluminum strips 2 mm thick, 20 mm wide – for the manufacture of a frame on which guides will be fixed.

Prices for heat -resistant stoves for stoves

Heat -resistant plaster

Work in preparation

The surface of the furnace needs to be properly prepared for plastering and facing, regardless of the finishing technique selected. Since they will determine the precise location of the plaster and tile glue on the surface, these works cannot be regarded as secondary.

  • The first step is to remove the old plaster. To make it easier, you can wet the wall several times with water. If the coating consists of clay, it can easily be removed by a spatula. If the solution was made with the addition of cement, then perhaps you will have to use a chisel and a hammer. But, it must be remembered that the wall of the furnace should be completely freed from the old plaster layer to the "pure" brick.

Taking out the outdated plaster

  • Having removed the plaster from the surface, it is necessary to walk on them with an iron brush manually, or with a grinder, fixing a special nozzle on it.

Utilizing a hard metal brush to clean surfaces

  • Further, the surface is well sprayed with water from a spray gun, and the seams between the bricks are cleaned to a depth of 8 ÷ 10 mm – this is necessary so that the plaster is well fixed on the wall.

It is best to moisten the surface for maximum impact.

  • If the masonry is new, then it should be well dried, and it must also be cleaned, since in any case the remaining solutions or dust are delayed on the surface.
  • Upon completion of cleaning, the wall must be well primed, and the soil should fall to the depth of the masonry joints. Before moving on to the next work, the wall is left until it dry out completely. It will not be optimal to regret the primers and apply it twice.

Priming is necessary for the surface, and best of all, double

  • Further, the walls of the furnace must be checked for their straightforwardness, since the laid tile will not be able to make them even and only emphasize the changes if they exist. Price of the SS PR is mastered using the construction level and plumbing.
  • If differences are found, the wall will have to be leveled.

Metal beaks are displayed on the wall in order to achieve this, with a focus on the plumb line. A maximum height of 8 ÷ 10 mm for the leveling layer is preferred.

Attaching the beacon profile

A plaster mixture that is intended to adorn the furnaces performs alignment.

A wide spatula is used to apply a thin layer of plaster, quickly leveling the mixture.

A spatula can be used to apply and guide the thin layer.

Using the sketch (or "spray"), a thick layer of the solution is applied, and the rule levels it while moving it along the fixed lighthouses.

Strong alignment, if required, is shedding a solution and then leveling the regulation.

  • If the downed corners are found when removing the old plaster, then they must be strengthened by reinforcing them with a perforated metal corner before applying the solution.

Angles are strengthened and aligned with metal profiles, and walls are reinforced with net

  • After the plaster solution grabs, it is recommended to fix the reinforcing glass -air mesh on the thin layer of the adhesive mixture. When the glue dries, the mesh is closed with another thin adhesive layer, which, in turn, should also dry well.

Occasionally, reinforcement is done with a metal net that is fastened with wide-hatted nails into the spaces between the rows before the walls are directly aligned onto the brick.

  • The leveled plastered wall should dry out well before further work.
  • If the tile is mounted on glue, then it is better to primed the plastered dry surface again – this will help tiles more reliably to gain a foothold on the wall.

Once more, I would like to remind everyone that extremely careful preparation of the furnace walls is required before facing work; otherwise, the glued tiles with a temperature difference start to disappear. It is possible that the entire structure will pull away from the wall with the old plaster and tiles if the finishing material is installed on a metal frame that is fastened to the old, crumbling plaster layer.

Glue glue tiles

Tiles can be faced with tiles on various solutions, but it is preferable to purchase ready-made glue that has been specifically created for decorating fireplaces and furnaces in order to avoid getting confused and failing to calculate the proportions of the components.

Particular adhesive mixture designed for fireplaces and stoves

Some experts would rather work with a cement solution that has PVA or salt glue added to it.

It won’t get any worse if you add a small amount of regular table salt to the completed masonry glue because salt can retain moisture and keep glue, concrete, and clay from drying out too quickly. Therefore, adding salt to any solution won’t harm it, regardless of the choice made.

How to cut tiles?

Cutting tiles is another procedure that falls under the category of preparatory work. Knowing how to do this correctly in advance is preferable because you can waste a lot of facing material trying to find the correct fragments.

When cutting tiles, precision and dexterity are crucial. The work will be easy once some experience shows.

  • The easiest way is this process is performed if there is a small drain-drain machine at the disposal .

Of course, a table machine-plot is the most practical tool.

The first step is to measure the desired distance on the tile and use a marker to draw a line along the ruler.

– After that, the tiles are placed in a tile cutter so that the cutting roller is beneath the indicated line.

Moreover, the roller is operated at the mark with minimal pressure, creating a fault line.

– after which the tile is split into two pieces and the lever is lowered.

This process will take between one and two minutes when there is some experience. Nevertheless, in order for the tile cutter to function well, you must have before beginning work:

– A few drops of machine oil are applied to the winning frame and the video.

In order to prevent an uneven incision, we must ensure that the video is securely fixed and does not move from side to side.

– The cutting video might need to be changed if the tile cutter has already been put to use. It is available in tile-selling stores.

Even with an 8 × 10 mm thickness, the tiles are still cuttable.

  • Another tool for cutting tiles is a manual tile-rifle . If this tool is purchased, then it should be of high quality. It should be said that it is unlikely for thick floor tiles, but if the stove is finished with wall material, then such a tool may be enough.

Tiles-manual tool-rush

  • In addition to tiles, for cutting, an electrician can be used, on which you need to install a special carbido-wolframe file. But, using this method, you need to take into account that each tile will go about 10 minutes.
  • If you install a special circle on a “grinder”, then it is also suitable for straight -line cuts on ceramic tiles.
  • Some masters successfully cut the tiles with a regular glass cutter, leading them along the metal ruler laid along the drawn line. This method of cutting requires a certain force both when drawing a line and when broken down the tiles in two. In addition, having no experience in conducting such a process, you can seriously damage your hand.

Skilled tiles occasionally cost more than a standard glass cutter.

Thus, a large tile cutter installed on the de-stated table or directly on the floor remains the best and safest option.

A grinding stone can be used to smooth out any uneven areas on the trimmed tile’s edge.

Facing the furnace with ceramic tiles on glue

Proceeding straight to the cladding, the following is how the work is done:

  • Laying tiles on the walls of the furnace begins from below. Therefore, the first thing to do is to recapture the line of the first row. Marking is carried out using a painted cord, which is exposed according to the planned risks horizontally, checking along the construction level, delayed and released. The cord will leave a perfectly even line on the wall, along which the first row will be laid.
  • Since the tile at first can slip down the wall, it is recommended to fix a metal perforated corner along a broken line.

Aluminum corner with a perforation

It is fastened to the wall using dowels spaced 150 × 200 mm apart. The thickness of the tile determines the corner’s size. If you make the right choice, it won’t show the profile once the tiles are installed.

Should the required size corner not be located, a 15 x 25 mm wooden rail or a broad graduated board is temporarily affixed from the bottom along the broken line. Once the masonry is finished and the glue has fully set, this impromptu guide is removed.

  • At the corners of the furnace, you can fix the perforated corners that will become a corner junction, since without this it is quite difficult to make it accurate.

Profile for tile masonry’s facing exterior angles

In order to mount the element on the wall, you must select a profile with roundness at the intersection of the parties, which will be on the wall’s corner. On both sides, the ends of the glued tiles will be pressed against this profile.

With a step of 300–350 mm, tiny dowels hold the corner to the wall.

  • After the preparation of the wall and tiles, you can proceed to the preparation of glue. To do this, water is poured into the prepared container, then the finished mixture is filled into it, and mixed with an electric drill and a mixer nozzle. As already mentioned, a small amount of salt can be added.

Mixing tile adhesive

The solution should brew for 10 to 12 minutes after kneading. During this time, the polymer additives that are part of the mixture’s composition enter the required reaction, transforming the mixture into a full glue.

  • Next, you can proceed to laying the first row.

Using a gear spatula, apply an adhesive mass to the wall. Spread out over a 5 x 7 tile area, the glue shouldn’t have time to set during the masonry process.

Applying and distributing glue to the stove wall’s surface

  • Tiles are laid on the surface covered with glue, between which crosses are installed both in vertical seams and in horizontal. Usually install two crosses on each side of the tile. This is done to observe the same thickness of the seams. When facing furnaces (for example, when using terror tiles), quite large gaps are used, even in 10 mm, so sometimes, instead of crosses, chopped pieces of drywall are used.

Installing calibration crosses while laying tiles

  • Each tile is pressed tightly against the wall, its location horizontally and vertical is immediately checked by the construction level.
  • The glue that performs between tiles in the seams must be removed immediately. The suture space should remain empty, since later it will be filled with an entirety.
  • By laying the tile, you need to remember that if it is installed unevenly, then it can still be corrected on the wall for 12 ÷ 15 minutes. After this time, the glue will already grasp, and you cannot move the finishing material on it. In this case, you will have to dismantle the tile from the wall, clean the glue and do all the work again. So it is better to immediately approach styling with maximum thoroughness and accuracy.
  • Having laid out 4 ÷ 5 rows, you need to take a break for two and three hours so that the lower rows grab well.
  • After that, you can complete the masonry completely and leave it to dry for 24 ÷ 36 hours. However, one should not forget about the cleaning of the surface of the tile from the glue that may be on the wrong stains. Now wipe them out of the ore, but when Kolya is finally grasping, deleting these spots will become a very difficult task.

Using a rubber spatula, Gallows

  • After the glue set is withstanded, you can proceed to the grout of the seams. For the furnace, only those grouts are used that have a heat resistance of at least 200 ° C . The composition for this is often selected according to the color of the tiles, but you should not choose white, since at temperature differences it can purchase a dirty tint.
  • Lining the seams, from the glazed tiles of the excess grout, it is immediately necessary to remove it with a damp sponge. This composition dries quickly, and after even a short time it will be difficult to remove.

Patching the spaces created by terracotta tiles

  • If the cladding of terracotta tiles was carried out, a construction gun with a note is usually used to fill the joints. The seams are filled to the entire depth and are left for one and a half ÷ two hours. After that, “embroidery” is made, for example, with a wide flat screwdriver or wire loop. In this case, you should not try to wipe the grouting solution from the surface of the tile – it is better to wait for its complete drying, and then gently slide off with a thin screwdriver or a knife blade .

Video: how to clad a stove with terracotta tiles

Facing the furnace with ceramic tiles without glue

Prices for ceramic tiles for stove cladding

Ceramic tile

This installation technique is appropriate for masters who are unsure about their ability to produce high-quality stove cladding using adhesive mass and do not want to use glue.

A stove on a metal frame with "dry" technology-approved tile lining

This technique is beneficial because it creates an air cushion between the wall and tiles, where hot air is delayed, and the cladding will not react to changes in temperature. As a result, it appears that this type of cladding somewhat mimics the tile’s structure. This kind of oven clarification is fairly easy to achieve; all that is required is precise measurement taking, precise fabrication of the frame components, and very slow, cautious work.

The entire construction is made up of an odd framework made of metal profiles that ceramic tiles are placed into to serve as a guide.

Illustration Brief description of the operation performed
The first thing to start work is where the stove wall is marking. For this, marks are made on the upper part of the masonry, which are verified by the construction level.
Then, the same thing is made along the lower line – it is planned at the height of the mounting of the skirting board.
After that, the entire space between the upper and lower marks is divided by horizontal lines into equal stripes – the height of the tile plus 3-4 mm. They will be carried out on them of fastening of the interlopter profiles.
Extra millimeters are necessary so that the tile is free to go in a metal frame mounted for it.
Marked with the level of the line, you need to beat off a painted blue cord. To do this, it stretches over the entire width or length of the wall of the furnace at the marks, then is pulled and released.
Streal lines remain on the wall, along which frame profiles will be attached.
Further, to the floor and wall should immediately fix the baseboard. It can be made independently from a galvanized metal or choose a ready -made option, since today you can find a large number of profiles that have different forms on sale.
For independent manufacture, it is necessary from a sheet of metal, 1-1.5 mm thick, measured and cut off a strip equal to the height of the skirting board plus 15-20 mm to the bend that will go to the floor.
The bend is made by putting the strip on a metal table or a special device prepared in advance, consisting of a beam of 50 × 60 mm and a steel plate (strip) fixed on it with self-tapping screws, a thickness larger than the thickness of the tile by 1-1.5 mm.
The workpiece is laid and fixed with clamps on top of the metal plate, leaving the ledge out of 15-20 mm. Then they carefully tap it with a kiyanka – a flat strip should be bent, forming a right angle. Narrow bent part of the element and will be fixed on the floor.
The finished skirting board is fixed on the wall of the furnace using anchor mounts, and on the floor, if it is wooden, with self -tapping screws with wide hats.
It is especially important to make a metal skirting board on the wall of the furnace under the firebox.
Next, it is necessary to measure and cut off a piece of the corner, which will be fixed along the upper line, marked on the wall of the line and on the lower edge of the plane of the hob plane.
This corner will framed the edges of the internal part of the frame, and its vertical elements will be fixed on it.
This photo shows a corner fixed by anchors along the edge of the hob.
Through fixed perforated corners with rivets, metal stripes are fixed with a 20 mm wide, made of 2 mm aluminum.
stripes are installed vertically through the entire plane of the wall, at a distance of 250-300 mm from each other. They will serve as the installation of supporting profiles to them, in which the tile itself will already be installed.
In the photo the master shows how the stripes pass inside the entire already mounted structure.
When horizontal corners and vertical stripes are fixed on the wall of the furnace, you can proceed to the manufacture of the profiles themselves, in which the tiles will be installed.
The figure shows a J-shaped form of the profile, which should be obtained as a result.
for each row of installed tiles, two profiles will be required, which are installed from above and below the height of the tile, forming a groove with sides.
For the manufacture of these elements of the frame, it is necessary to cut a strip of 44 mm and a length equal to the width of the wall from a sheet of galvanized metal.
If the wall of the furnace is too long, it is better to make profiles no more than a meter long, and to spit them already when installing the frame.
J – figurative profiles are made using the same device of the leaflet from a beam with a metal plate.
An important point – it is necessary that the steel plate comes out along the entire length of the beam for about 3 mm – this is required for the correct formation of the side.
The strip for the future profile is laid on the edge of the leaf beam with a protrusion outward at first by 3 mm. When installing tiles on the wall, this side will serve as a holder for her.
The thin metal is tapped with a kiyanka until the whole strip has a M-shaped shape. Then you need to bend the strip again – to form a J -shaped profile.
The workpiece is transferred forward, so that the size of the shelf is equal to the thickness of the tile + 1 mm. Another 1 mm is added – on the bend itself.
For example, with a tile thickness of 6 mm from the first angle, it is necessary to retreat 8 mm.
must remember that the cladding looks neat, the sides should have the same width.
The workpiece is again fixed with clamps and bended with a kiyanka.
A three -millimeter protrusion of a metal plate ensures the correctness of the formation of the entire profile.
Having made profiles, each of them is checked with tiles, which is installed behind the side and move. It should easily slide along the inner surface.
This photo shows how the profiles are fixed inside the structure.
It shows how the profiles of two neighboring rows in relation to each other should be installed.
Installation of profiles is made from skirting boards. Exactly at its upper part, the lowest profile is fixed to the vertical lanes. For this, through holes are drilled in a wide shelf of the profile and strip, where the rivet is then installed.
The second J -shaped bar is mounted along a line that determines the top of the lowest row -for control, you can install two tiles at the edges.
Further, close to the first row, the guides for the second row is established on the same principle – and so on to the very top.
Having mounted the frame for two or three rows, they install tiles in them. It is inserted between the upper and lower profiles, and advanced to the end of the wall – and so, until the entire row is filled with tiles.
As a result, a neat surface is obtained, and, as can be seen from the installation process, the tile at any time, if desired, can be replaced by a new.
After installing the tiles, you can proceed to close the joints at the corners. Narrow, self -made corners are installed around the hob.
Rounded metal corner linings are mounted on external corners, which are fixed to the guide of the frame with self -tapping screws.
It is advisable to linen the internal walls of the hobs of the hob with sheets of stainless steel. Rectangular fragments of the desired size are cut out of it, bend at the edges, to obtain more reliable joints, since the panels at the corners are installed and screwed to the inner walls.
after installing them, the surface, if desired, can be covered with heat -resistant black paint, which allows you to easily put the walls of the chamber in order.

Even people who are not familiar with the craft of tile or stove can finish the furnace using this method. Should you execute the task accurately, meticulously planning your steps, the cladding will perform on par with tiles installed via glue-on technology. Another benefit of this installation technique is that you can arrange tiles in any pattern using frame rows, planning the color scheme ahead of time. Visit our website to learn more about liquid wall insulation.

Afanasyev Evgeny, Chief Editor

The publication’s author September 1, 2015

The stove is one crucial component that’s frequently disregarded in the effort to keep your house warm and inviting. The stove’s efficiency is greatly increased by tiling, which also improves its visual appeal. Tiled stoves can increase overall comfort and save energy costs by efficiently distributing and insulating heat. Learning the art of tiling your stove can make it the focal point of warmth and style in your house, from choosing the right tiles to using the right installation methods.

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Michael Kuznetsov

I love to create beauty and comfort with my own hands. In my articles I share tips on warming the house and repairing with my own hands.

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