How to make a floor in a private house from scratch: step -by -step guide

One of the most important things to think about when constructing or remodeling a private home is the flooring. In addition to being the support system for your entire living area, the floor is essential for comfort and insulation. This comprehensive guide will take you step-by-step through the entire process of building a new floor in your home, from design to completion.

It is imperative that you evaluate your needs and the particular requirements of your home before beginning construction. Take into account elements like the kind of foundation, the materials at hand, and the intended use of the area. You can expedite the construction process and make well-informed decisions with the aid of this preliminary planning phase.

Preparing the subfloor is the first stage in creating a floor from scratch. This include removing any debris from the area, making sure the surface is level, and putting in any joists or beams that are required for structural support. For the stability and durability of your floor, the subfloor must be properly prepared.

It’s time to select the right flooring material after the subfloor is ready. Hardwood, laminate, tile, and concrete are among the available options. When choosing the right material for your home, take durability, aesthetics, and upkeep requirements into account.

After selecting the flooring material, installation is the next stage. To guarantee that the floorboards or tiles are properly placed and aligned, carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Take your time to ensure that you don’t make any mistakes that could jeopardize the floor’s integrity.

Insulation must be added after flooring is installed if you want to increase your home’s comfort and energy efficiency. Insulation lessens noise transmission between floors and aids in temperature regulation. You can choose from a variety of insulation materials, such as fiberglass, foam board, or spray foam, depending on your climate and budget.

Lastly, remember to add finishing touches to complete the appearance of your newly installed floor. This could entail coating concrete floors with a protective layer, grouting tiles, or sealing or staining hardwood floors. At this point, pay close attention to detail to produce a polished and businesslike finish.

Although starting from scratch to build a floor in a private home may seem like a difficult undertaking, it can be a rewarding do-it-yourself project with careful planning and attention to detail. You can build a long-lasting, cozy, and aesthetically pleasing floor that will improve the appearance and usefulness of your house for many years to come by following this step-by-step tutorial.

Prioritize comfort and efficiency when it comes to insulation and heating in your home. In addition to keeping you cozy in the winter and cool in the summer, a well-insulated home also lowers your energy costs. In order to keep heat from escaping in the winter and entering in the summer, insulation creates a barrier. Adequate insulation, when paired with energy-efficient heating systems, guarantees a comfortable and sustainable living space all year long. Every action you take to improve the insulation in your home, from installing high-quality materials to caulking air leaks, enhances both the overall energy efficiency and comfort of your living space.

Choosing flooring

Choose the kind of floor structure before you begin work. These are some of the most prevalent types that can be identified:

• single;
• double;
• Paul from concrete.

The characteristics of the building where the floor will be located determine which design is chosen. The way the house operates is the primary factor influencing such a solution. Remember that a single design works best for summer houses or summer cottages when making your selection. It is inappropriate to have a floor like that in a home where people live year-round.

Here, the dumped flooring was just placed over the lags. There is very little thermal insulation in this sex. You don’t need to prepare a lot of material to build such grounds. Single floor installation work is completed fairly quickly.

You should start building a double sex if it is decided to construct a capital private home where people can live at any time. Compared to a single choice, this design is more insulated. Such sex primarily consists of black and finish coatings. Layers of thermal and hydro-insulation are sandwiched in between. A floor device like this can prevent damage to the house’s entire structure.

In a country home, a dual-sex layer is frequently constructed of an indecent board. The finishing board is flimsy. Work can be done independently at every stage. Expanded clay is typically used to create thermal insulation.

A concrete base is an additional choice for constructing a floor in a private residence. Filling the concrete screed is how these structures are constructed. When creating such sexes, if all the requirements are met, the result will be long-lasting and robust. Any coating can be used to finish it as well.

Parquet board

Features fibers that are oriented diametrically and a compound wood structure. Due to its aesthetic value, expensive wood species make up the majority of the upper material used in parquet flooring.

The wood used in later layers is from forests. Every component is securely adhered to the others.

• perfectly imitates piece parquet;
• the material is more budgetary than a whole array of wood;
• easily mounted;
• The coating can be polished repeatedly;
• natural material;
• soundbreak;
• Compatibility with the floor heating system.

• moisture, regardless of the protective coating;
• deep damage cannot be restored, a complete replacement of the board is required;
• the material is unstable to surface damage.

Massive board

A homogeneous wood profile board. Wood is dried and then shpuntovkaed in the process of making material. Because boards are spike-made, laying can be done without alterations or noticeable seams, and floor installation is made easier.

Using glue or nails, they are firmly fixed to the starting surface and set atop lags or faner.

• durability;
• the possibility of restoration;
• easily mounted;
• excellent thermal insulation properties;
• Environmental friendliness.

• high price;
• acquisition for laying additional consumables;
• moisture;
• instability to temperature differences;
• demand for care (it is necessary to periodically varnish and treated with oil);
• does not combine with the floor heating system;
• the material is subject to decay;
• combustibility;
• the material is unprotected from pests (requires additional processing);
• vulnerability for mechanical damage;
• It is impossible to make artistic styling.

Piece parquet

Whole woody strips measuring 1.5 to 2 cm thick, 5 to 9 cm wide, and 25 to 50 cm long make up parquet canvas.

Nails are used to secure the parquet after it has been glued to a plywood foundation. The coating is then either polished, varnished, or amused.

• durability;
• heat and sound insulation;
• the possibility of grinding;
• Social Revolutionary;
• Environmental friendliness

• high price;
• laborious installation;
• the need for careful care;
• sensitivity to temperature changes;
• moisture;
• the need for regular repairs.

Modular PVC covers

The modules are made up of parts that are comparable to those used in linoleum production. The module’s thickness can range from 0.5 mm to 3.5 mm.

The floor needs to be dry and clean before laying tile, whether it is on plywood or concrete. Over time, any bumps will become apparent. Adhesive is used for installation.

• compatibility with the floor heating system;
• A wide range of design solutions;
• diversity of textures;
• wear resistance;
• Simplicity in laying;
• simplicity in the content;
• low cost;
• simplicity in repair;
• soundproofing properties.

• fear of solvents;
• allergenicity;
• Limited period of use.

Ceramic tile

The tile is glazed and composed of red clay. There are options for various sizes and decor. Perfect for highly humid rooms. It can mimic laminate or parquet flooring, making it suitable for any kind of space. However, keep in mind that, for instance, ceramic tiles should be used in the bedroom in conjunction with a floor heating system.

• A wide range of design solutions;
• simplicity in the content;
• wear resistance;
• environmental friendliness;
• moisture resistance.

• The complexity of laying;
• the presence of seams;
• cold;
• fragility;
• low soundproofing qualities;
• slippery surface.

Porcelain stoneware

Quartz sand, minerals, and red or white clay are typically used to make tiles. Sizes, hues, and decorations vary among tiles. additionally being corrugated or polished.

• extensive assortment of decorative solutions;
• moisture resistance;
• wear resistance;
• variability of the price segment;
• Ease of care;
• durability;
• combination with the floor heating system.

• complexity in laying;
• cold;
• difficulty in restoration;
• different parties of the same decor can have different external indicators.

Glass floor

Able to be shown in two different ways. as a semi-outlet that serves as a structural support in place of a wooden or concrete base. or similar to a fake field. In this instance, the panels are mounted above custom-made niches that have lighting and various decorative accents.

The glass panel is composed of multiple layers of triplex or organic glass, joined together by a laminating film. Paul is able to support 400 kg of weight per square meter.

• variability of design solutions;
• the possibility of embedding of a low -sound design;
• refractory;
• moisture resistance;
• environmental friendliness;
• Ease of care.

• high price;
• complex installation;
• slippery surface;
• sensitivity to mechanical damage;

Carpet

Is a hybrid of linoleum and traditional carpet. It is available for purchase in rolls; in rare circumstances, standard sizes may be used to represent it. The base can have one or two layers, just like linoleum. To make the base, rubber, jute, or felt are used.

The base and the pile are joined by weaving or melting. Three versions are available: short, medium, and long. Wool, polypropylene, or polyamide are most frequently used in the production of pile; other materials are produced less frequently. When laying, planks, rails, or glue are used for fixing.

• variability of shades and textures;
• is additional insulation;
• excellent sound insulation;
• combined with the floor heating system;
• The variability of the price segment.

• Dust and mud concentration;
• the surface sensitive to ultraviolet radiation;
• moisture;

Carpet tiles

Though more practical, this material is comparable to carpet. The process of installing carpet modules is easy and produces little waste. Laying tile in rooms with intricate configurations will yield the highest profit margin.

• Lack of sliding;
• compatibility with various grounds;
• heat, sound insulation;
• simplicity in installation;
• The possibility of replacing a spoiled segment.

• high price;
• moisture.

Bulk floor

The following polymers can be used in the production of the floor: methyl methacrylate, which is the most expensive; epoxy, which is the most widely used because it allows for an enormous variety of design options; and polyurethane, which is appropriate even for uneven and cracked surfaces.

• durability;
• moisture resistance;
• immunity to chemicals;
• wear resistance;
• refractory;
• variability of decor;
• simplicity of content;
• tolerance for temperature differences.

• high price;
• complex installation;
• cold;
• Over time, it turns yellow, fades and becomes cloudy;
• at high temperatures can be toxic;

A natural stone

One of the earliest materials used to make flooring is stone. Additionally, the stone is produced as ceramic-like tiles to facilitate installation. Similar to porcelain or tiles, stones are laid, but frequently a cement and sand mixture is used in place of glue.

• wear resistance;
• refractory;
• compatibility with the floor heating system;
• tolerance for temperature and atmospheric vibrations.

• high price;
• radiation from some types of stone;
• requirement to content;
• cold;
• low noise insulation;
• Hygroscopicity.

Quartzvinyl tile

The basic PVC layer, fiberglass reinforcement, shellout or river sand, decor, and a polyurethane protective layer are the layers that make up a tile. Tiles can therefore reach 4 mm. Adhesive is used for installation. The base of a self-adhesive option is sticky.

• wear resistance;
• durability;
• moisture resistance;
• tolerance for temperature fluctuations;
• simplicity of content;
• simplicity of laying;
• the possibility of repair;
• variability of decor;
• democratic value;
• refractory;
• Compatibility with the floor heating system.

• noticeable joints when laying;
• In combination with the concrete floor, it has a cold surface;
• intolerance to damage from heels and heavy furniture;
• intolerance to ultraviolette;
• The material has a large weight;
• Requires an ideal starting surface.

Artificial grass

The coating is typically made of latex or continuous or perforated reinforced polyurethane. The length of the grass imitation ranges from 10 to 40 mm, with varying tones. made either as plates or rolls.

• durability;
• tolerance for ultraviolette;
• simplicity of laying;
• the possibility of restoration;
• Vlide resistance;
• tolerance for temperature differences;
• Simplicity in the content.

• high price;
• When heated, the unpleasant smell of plastic exudes;
• is a favorable environment for the propagation of harmful bacteria;

Terrazzo

Concrete mosaic floor with a variety of colored surfaces embellished with fillers of all kinds. the surface that conceals the floor’s flaws while serving as both the start and the finish.

The floor is poured to a 50 mm thickness, polished, and, if necessary, reinforced before being covered in a layer of polyurethane for protection. The surface needs to be thoroughly cleaned, primed, and prepped before pouring.

• moisture resistance;
• refractory;
• tolerance for ultraviolette;
• durability;
• environmental friendliness;
• resistance to chemicals;
• compatibility with the floor heating system;
• tolerance for temperature differences.

• the complexity of the two -stage floor filling technology;
• cold;
• Difficulty in dismantling;
• Over time, the color of the coating acquires yellow shades;
• high price.

Marmoleum

A natural substitute for linoleum composed of jute, cork oak, coniferous resin, linseed oil, and natural dyes. It is offered for sale in rolls, 30 x 90 cm panels, or 30 x 30 cm and 50 x 50 cm plates.

• environmental friendliness;
• democratic price;
• has bactericidal properties;
• thermal insulation;
• wear resistance;
• refractory;
• simplicity in installation;
• The variability of the decor.

• Over time, he hardens;
• heavy material;
• fragility along the edges;
• unpleasant smell from new material;
• When laying it is difficult to get an even slice.

In summary, it is important to remember that there are so many different types of modern flooring available that you can choose the one that will match your interior decor the best, be unique, eco-friendly, and reasonably priced.

Materials

In a private home, the flooring is arranged using materials that optimally maintain the internal microclimate.

These structures are built using a variety of material groups, including:

• Lumber. This group of substances is used during the construction of floors based on lag. The most popular products are wooden bars, a board of various thicknesses, sawdust (heat insulator). This group includes plywood, OSB and other plates based on wood processing products.
• Insulating materials. This group is also very wide and includes substances for arranging hydro-, steam and thermal insulation. Products of this type include roller materials (film, roofing material, all types of mineral wool), as well as bulk structures (expanded clay, sand, gravel, and t. D. ). Many of these substances do not form a separate layer. They are intended to cover and isolate other elements of the system.
• Decorative finish. There are also several types of similar coatings. The most common boards are considered, ceramic tiles, laminate, parquet, etc. D.

You can create universal floor coverings with a variety of functional and aesthetic qualities using all of them. Certain ones are limited to use in specific scenarios.

Concrete floors work well for floor heating systems because they can withstand variations in humidity and temperature.

Which is better – concrete or wood

A private home’s floor material must be decided upon right away, whether it will be concrete or wood. You must understand how these floors differ in order to select the best option.

Price

A 5 cm thick screed will require 1.5 bags of sand (50 rubles per mesh) and 0.5 bags of cement (300 rubles per bag). Therefore, the average cost of a 1 m2 screed will be 225 rubles. In the event that the work is completed by a hired individual, the required labor costs come to 250 r./m2.

If you use an OSB plate (600 rubles/m2) that is 18 mm thick and a dry beam measuring 10 x 10 cm with a step of 40 cm (400 rubles/m2). The cost per square meter for a carpenter’s work is 1250 rubles.

Communications

The sewage system, heating system, and water supply are all located inside the floor structure of modern homes. In the event that pipes burst, wooden can easily cut through and obtain communication. Concrete floors make the process more challenging because you will need to use a specialized tool and put in a lot of time and effort to remove the screed.

Dates

After filling, the screed takes 28 days to reach its maximum strength. In addition, she is gaining 70% of her initial strength in just one week. You can’t put anything on the solution even though it keeps giving off moisture.

After installation, the wooden floor is immediately usable.

Durability

A distinctive creak may sound when walking on a wooden floor if the installation was not done by a skilled professional within a few weeks. There is no concrete screed to address this drawback. Furthermore, the outcome and caliber of labor completed by employed personnel can be assessed right away.

Weight

Weight: Depending on the type of wood, lags per 1 m2 weigh approximately 25 kg, while 1 m2 of OSB-List with an 18 mm thickness weighs 12 kg. A wooden floor that is 1 m2 will therefore weigh roughly 40 kg. Additionally, a 1 m2 screed with a 5 cm thickness weighs 100 kg.

Wooden floor

Although wooden floors can be constructed in a variety of ways, they are always fixed to lags, which are composed of bars that are inserted into the walls of the house, supported by pillars, or laid on a concrete base. The final option can only be implemented in a space that is limited, like a hallway or a narrow corridor.

Floors on supporting pillars

When connecting the lags with the house walls is not possible or is insufficient for the general coating’s strength, floors on supporting pillars are constructed. "Floating" refers to the lag system that is only mounted on supporting pillars.

In a system like this, the floors are set up as follows:

1. The first thing to do is to dig pits in the underground space of the house to install brick pillars. Such mini-coatings are marked at a distance of 70-100 centimeters from each other. The depth of the pits should be at least fifty centimeters. The size of the cross section will depend on the height of the supported supports, the higher the pillar should be, the greater its width and thickness.
2. Crushed stone, gravel or sand, with a thickness of at least twenty centimeters, then fill with water and is thoroughly compacted to the bottom of the dug pits. The better the bottom will be tamped, the more reliable the support for the LAG system will be, so this process should be carried out for conscience.
3. Red brick pillars are laid on a tamped pillow, or formwork is arranged, the reinforcement is installed, and a cement-gravel mixture is poured. If the pillars are made of concrete, then their size should be in a section of at least 40 × 40, and preferably 50 × 50 cm. The erected pillars are verified by level, and, if necessary, their height is adjusted.
4. From above the pillars, to a depth of 10-15 centimeters, threaded hairpins are arranged or an anchors are installed, on which the floor ceiling beams will be fixed subsequently.
5. It should be noted that if the building or room has a small area, then the supporting pillars can only be arranged along the perimeter of the future room, but in this case, massive beams must be laid on them.
6. After the pillars are ready, waterproofing material is laid on their upper part. It is better if it is three ÷ four layers of roofing material.
7. The holes are drilled in the beams through which the fasteners will pass.
8. Brings or log beams or logs are laid on waterproofing, they are put on stilettos and exposed in level, aligned with wooden tablets-lodges. When the base of the floor is exhibited, it is better to fix the lining to the bars with the help of nails, and the bars themselves must also be fixed, screwing them to the poles with nuts through a wide goal. If the studs have excess height, it is cut off with a grinder.
9. It is best to fall asleep to expanded clay, a layer of 15-20 centimeters to the surface of the underground – it will well hold moisture, which can come from the soil and additionally insulate the floors.
10. So that the floor arranged in this way is warm, it is better to make it two -layer, especially since all conditions are created in this version for this. If it is supposed to immediately lay the floor board on the beams, then the underground must be completely filled with expanded clay, leaving a distance of no more than ten centimeters between it and the wooden coating.

Installation of brick pillars

The optimal choice for today is brick pillars with acceptable strength characteristics that are quite accessible from a financial point of view and do not require special labor costs in the construction. The only restriction is that the height of such supporting pillars should not exceed 1.5 m; If it is larger, to maintain the strength of the supports, you will have to increase their cross section, which will lead to a sharp increase in the required amount of brick and, accordingly, an increase in material costs of construction. With a pillars height of up to 50-60 cm, a cross-section of 1×1 brick is enough, at a height of 0.6-1.2 m, at least 1.5×1.5 bricks are made, columns up to 1.5 m high are laid out at least 2×2 bricks.

In any case, under the brick supports, it is necessary to pour concrete “pyhadas”, the area of which exceeds the area of the cross section of the columns by at least 10 cm in each direction. The distance between the centers of the sites are selected within 0.7-1 m along the lag and 0.8-1.2 m between the logs of 100 … 150×150 mm. After the marking in the places of erection of the pillars, pits break out about half a meter; The main thing is that the bottom should be lower than the fertile layer of the earth. A sand-gravel “pillow” is made at the bottom of these mini-kotlovans, on which a concrete mixture is poured. It is desirable that the surface of the resulting “pyatak” be obtained a few centimeters higher than the ground level.

It is at the stage of laying out the supporting pillars that the horizontality of the future sex is laid, and it is at this stage that it is best to use the laser level. With its help, the level of the lower edge of the lag plus 1 cm is marked on the walls, a construction cord is pulled between the opposite walls at this level, and the height of the poles is already being trained in its level. It is not necessary to take it strictly to a millimeter – let"s say a gap of a couple of centimeters. When calculating the total thickness of the floor, it should be borne in mind that at least its upper plane should be higher than the level of the base of the building – otherwise it will be extremely difficult to avoid the “cold bridges”.

Some features of supporting pillars

It is worthwhile to include fasteners for beam lag in them. Vertical "hairpins" with threads or anchor bolts are typically used as such fasteners for 10 to 20 centimeters after the lags in the appropriate locations are drilled through holes. The beams are then "put on" on the resulting pins and are drawn together by nuts with washers. Excess sticking "threads" are severed from the "grinder".

Applying a thick layer of plaster to the column’s side surfaces—particularly the upper plane where the lag will be installed—is advised as it will strengthen the structure and serve as extra waterproofing. The surface of the completed columns is covered in two to three layers of tiny roofing material fragments.

You can start laying the lags as soon as the pantry has dried completely and hardened (it takes about a week) on the completed support pillars.

Laying lag on brick columns

The floor design influences the choice of lag length. There are only two choices for such structures when it comes to laying on supporting pillars: "floating" and hard.

"Floating" or hard floors?

In the first scenario, the entire floor "sandwich" rests solely on the columns and is not firmly fixed to the building’s walls or foundation. In the second, the ends of the lag are secured to the walls in one way or another. This design essentially prevents flooring from "festing," but it may cause deformation of the finished sex when the building is drawn.

When using a "floating" floor version, the lag is 3–5 cm shorter than the wall-to-wall distance. It will be challenging to securely fasten the lags to the walls in the second scenario if the gap is greater than 2 cm. Lags may, if required, be composed of two or more pieces joined in a "half-lap"; however, the joint must unquestionably rest on the support column and be secured with self-tapping screws or, in the event that the lags’ cross section is larger than 10 by 100 mm, with nails.

They can be placed directly on the supports if the total length of the lag is less than three meters (remember to use roofing material waterproofing gaskets!); Nonetheless, it is preferable to place the board wrappers with a thickness of 25–50 mm between the roofing material and the laga beam’s lower plane. This needs to be done in the context of the lag!

Lag alignment

Following the lag’s placement on the ready-made supporting pillars, they need to be "set" by level. This is accomplished in the following way: two extreme beams are strictly laid horizontally in accordance with a previously determined and marked level of height, with the aid of wooden gaskets of small thickness. As of right now, gaskets are only utilized on the most extreme support pillars; you can ignore the intermediate ones. The ends of the lag that is being displayed are nailed to the walls; this mount will only be in place temporarily if the floors are "floating."

The building cord is tightly pulled along the upper planes on both sides, 0.3–0.5 m from the walls. It is then used to display all other intermediate beams, and lags and columns are connected with gaskets if needed. Every gasket needs to be firmly fastened (nailed) to the support columns and, if feasible, the lags. Beams should be tightly positioned atop the pillars; in severe circumstances, gaps of no more than 2 mm are permissible, but not on pillars that are adjacent.

Black floor

There are various ways to arrange a black floor. The type of insulation will determine which particular approach is selected.

Option for a black floor

• If a slag or expanded clay is used as a heater, then the black floor is made continuous, from the boards that are nailed to the lower cut of the beams. The cracks between the boards are smeared with clay diluted to a not very thick state. After the clay dries, a heater can be filled into the cells, on top of which a vapor barrier film is laid.
• If the floors are insulated with mineral wool, then the boards are nailed to the lower side of the beams at a distance of 50 centimeters from each other.

Installing a film vapor barrier

• Steamed is attached to the beams and on the lower boards and thin plywood is laid. A heater is laid on it, which is also closed with vapor barrier, attached to the beams using a steppe and brackets.

The last floor is two layers thick, black, and has insulation in between.

• Then, lags are nailed lags of 10 × 3 centimeters on the beams, on which floor boards or thick plywood will be laid.

Video: a visual example of the installation of a black floor

Wooden floor

Set up a ground and a wooden floor. There is a plan for this, around which you can create a work schedule.

The ground’s approximate arrangement of the wooden floor

• The soil in the underground, it is necessary to tamp well, and arrange a pillow of sand, gravel or crushed stone of the middle fraction, with a thickness of 20 to 40 centimeters on it, and then take a click again.
• Hard waterproofing, for example, roofing material is laid on a tamped pillow. If desired, it is possible, for it, for greater strength, lay the reinforcing mesh. Waterproofing should be found on the walls at least 10 centimeters.
• On waterproofing, put bricks or concrete blocks on a solution, which will subsequently become a support for beams. The supports are placed in such a way that the beams are 60 centimeters from each other (standard width of the insulation).
• The first layer of insulation is laid around the bricks – it can be a foam of 50 ÷ 100 mm or mineral wool.
• On bricks, or better – wooden beams are installed on concrete blocks, level them in level, and fixed with the help of a corner.
• Between the stacked beams, for greater insulation, you can additionally lay mineral wool slabs.
• On top of the insulation, the stands fix the vapor barrier film.
• Then laid the floor board, which is fixed with cloves neatly driven into its side.
• The board is laid at a distance of one – one and a half centimeters from the wall, to ensure ventilation.

Wooden floor on a concrete screed

The lags can be put directly on concrete when the floor is on a concrete screed or stove, or they can be put on threaded stilettos if the floor needs to be raised to a minimum height of 10 to 20 centimeters.

You cannot cut corners when installing floors on concrete; the lags must be sufficiently large for the floors to be dependable and long-lasting.

It should be mentioned right away that if this kind of floor is not two-layered, i.e., has a draft floor as mentioned above, it will be extremely cold.

• First, on the concrete coating, preliminary marking of the location of the lag is made. They should be installed at a distance of 60 centimeters, taking into account the future insulation. Marking is made by beating the line with color.
• Further, on the broken lines make marks at a distance of 30-40 centimeters.
• In these points, holes are drilled in which the studs with fixers are installed at about the same height of the floor – they will hold the beams.
• In the beams themselves at the extinct distance corresponding to the location of the studs mounted on the surface of concrete, the holes are drilled, and then put on the beams on the stilettos.
• Then, using the level, they twist the fixers in one or the other, bringing all the beams to the perfect horizontal, controlling it.
• The nuts are twisted on the tops on the stilettos, driving them into a prepared recess, and the excess part of the studs is cut off with a grind.
• The next stages are the device of the black floor, insulation and the flooring of the clean floor.

Lag fastening directly on the screed

Laying lags on a concrete floor is a very simple task that you can accomplish on your own if you have the necessary tools.

• On the concrete coating, stripes are beaten off, also at a distance of 60 centimeters from each other, but from the wall they should be at a distance of insulation thickness (150-200 mm).
• Further, using the anchor mount, the lags are reliably installed on the concrete floor. In this case, the bars can be of any height – this will depend on the desire of the owner of the house and on the ability to raise the floors to the desired height.
• Then, it would be nice to lay a thin insulation, for example, foamed polyethylene, which can be fixed to the lags using brackets.
• Strips cut off from Mineral wool mats are installed along the wall, along the entire perimeter of the room.
• Further, the slabs of insulation material are laid on the covered polyethylene or the expanded clay or medium fraction is filled up.

Lags with plywood flooring following expanded clay backfill

• On top, the insulation of the vapor barrier should be closed on top.

You can install the floor right away.

• Then a floorboard or thick plywood is laid, and a decorative coating can be laid on top.

General principles of wooden floors

The lags are always directly laid upon by the floor boards; however, the lags themselves can be stacked on supports, which are typically brick, wooden, or metal poles, as well as on a concrete or even earthen base. Seldom, but still, a technique is used where the ends of the lag are fitted into the walls on either side of them or placed on ledges that are specifically designed to be close to the walls and function without the need for intermediary supports. It is nearly impossible to install them correctly on their own, and blocking wide spans in this situation requires lags of a very large section and weight.

The method of installing wooden floors on a concrete foundation is essentially the same as installing floors with reinforced concrete plate overlaps in an apartment. Installing a floor on the ground floor of a private home presents a far more difficult situation because it is highly desirable to set up a dry and ventilated subterranean space in this instance. The strength and longevity of the completed floor are significantly influenced by its presence, particularly in situations where groundwater is heavily arranged.

Variety of wood

The best choice for the so-called finished coating will be the first or highest variety of boards; for the rough flooring, buy a second or third variety. The second type of boards may also be appropriate if you plan to cover your eventual finishing floor.

The presence of defects

Even if you purchase high-grade material, you should still pay attention to whether the board has any external flaws, that is:

• cracks;
• knots;
• chips and so on.

All of this should not be on the board; if it is, then only a small number of them should be for us.

• The length of the boards and bars must be equal to the parameters of the width and length of your room;
• The usual thickness of the boards is one hundred twenty -five millimeters and one hundred for twenty -five millimeters.

Lag

This parameter is primarily chosen based on each lag-laying step, which determines how the boards should be placed. Based on the current state of technology, these distances need to be chosen using the information provided in the following table:

Reserve

Even after making all the calculations, you still need to add roughly 15% to the cost of any building material you buy for the reserve. This guideline needs to be followed since experts and builders have already confirmed it.

Crucial: careful attention will be paid to the wood’s drying process. She must have moisture, or eventually the floorboards will become warped and gaps will form between them. The maximum humidity for finishing coating boards and bars is 12%, and the maximum humidity for rough boards and bars is 17%.

Purpose of the premises

Consider the features of the room’s operation when selecting materials.

Hallway

Wear-resistant flooring is what the hallway should have.

Strict specifications are placed on the coating because this room has a high foot load and is the first at the apartment entrance.

• easy care;
• presentability;
• strength and resistance to mechanical damage.

Massive board, tile, and commercial and semi-commercial linoleum and laminate are the best options. Furthermore, it is advised to apply a particularly light coating—tiles or linoleum—directly at the entrance.

Corridor

A common choice for the corridor’s coating is porcelain stoneware.

You can use the laminate in corridors that are not directly next to the front door. Durable and elegant porcelain tiles, as well as natural or artificial linoleum with an improved top layer, are also appropriate in this situation.

Kitchen

The kitchen’s floors get dirty easily and require frequent washing.

This room’s unique feature is that it houses filthy economic processes and has excellent cross-country ability. As a result, the coating needs to be easy to clean, non-slip, and resistant to wear. Choices:

• porcelain border;
• semi -commercial or commercial laminate;
• linoleum;
• Rubbed ceramic tiles.

Bathroom and toilet

The bathroom floor ought to be resistant to moisture.

A relief tile is the best option for the restroom and toilet. Next, depending on taste, linoleum, a plug, a carpet that resists moisture, and a large boat made of wood that is resistant to rotting come next.

Living room

Parquet flooring works well in living rooms.

The room, which serves as the front of the house, should have a lovely and long-lasting finish. One example would be a large, varnished piece of parquet flooring from the factory. The cork coating and natural wood laminate appear to be beneficial.

Bedroom

In the bedroom, natural and soft coatings are appropriate.

It is advised to use eco-friendly materials in this space that provide pleasing tactile experiences. And a natural carpet is your best bet. Other sensible options for a bedroom are laminate, massive board, linoleum, and parquet flooring.

Children"s

Paul in the nursery shouldn’t endanger the child’s health.

The coating ought to be long-lasting and eco-friendly. It is advised to apply oil to the floor if it is made of wood. Laminate flooring and short pile carpets are other options.

In selecting a floor covering for a private residence, consider more than just the material’s visual appeal. Remember to consider the features related to maintenance and service life, and make sure to assess the coating’s functionality in a specific room.

How to do it with your own hands?

Installing flooring in a private home is not that hard. Selecting the appropriate flooring type for your needs is the only thing that matters. Doing this during the building’s construction is far simpler. Since the floor is being installed from scratch during this time, there will be no need to disassemble and replace the previous coating. In the event that repairs are made, the floor base arrangement algorithm may change based on the previous material’s structure.

Original technical characteristics define each type of flooring. As a result, many people wonder which floor to form inside a private home when it is being built.

In order to select the optimal solution, take into account the benefits and drawbacks of each system:

• Single wooden floors. Structures of this type are budgetary and are used quite often. Only beams are used in the floor structure, on top of which a finish board or other material is immediately attached. To protect wood, you need to use several layers of heat and moisture insulation when arranging. If you do not comply with the technology, the base will quickly dry out and form the cracks. This, in turn, will lead to the appearance of drafts and a large loss of heat. To correct all the shortcomings, you will need to completely redo the entire structure.

• Double floors. This structure allows you to increase the life and strength of the base. Double coatings hold heat much better, although insulation is also used here. But the construction of this sex will be much more expensive than the previous.
• Monolithic bases. Concrete floors are highly durable, which is their main advantage. They are able to withstand almost any load, and are also suitable for decoration with all decorative materials. On the cement of the base, you can build floors based on lag, which will be durable and warm. The disadvantage of monolithic floors is their large weight, which does not always allow them to build them on the second floor if the walls are not designed for such loads.

Any type of floor arrangement requires choosing supplies and equipment that will enable you to create a sturdy and dependable design.

The following resources are required in order to solve such problems:

• Subtings. This includes classic crushed stone and sand. They are used to align soil. Not used in the installation of floors on the second floor.
• Material for the formation of a black base. There are also several options. If you have chosen a wooden floor, then you should purchase high -quality wood bars that will withstand the load. You will also need special fasteners to fix the wood. In some cases, you will need a small block with a cross -section of 5*5 cm, which is nailed to the bottom of the lag. The black base is then attached to them. A similar approach is found during the construction of the floor on the second floor.
• Thermal insulation materials. Often, mineral wool or expanded clay are used here, which are closed with special films. This is necessary so that moisture does not fall into the structure of the heat insulator, which can quickly destroy it. Please note that the laying sequence must be observed. If you change some of the layers, this will lead to the accumulation of moisture inside its structure.

In the nation, there are several methods for installing flooring. It all relies on the kind of base that is selected.

The following steps are consistent in the algorithm for setting up a wooden floor on the ground floor:

• Alignment of the soil. In this case, the surface is filled with sand and compacted. Crushed stone is located on top of it, which is also trimmed and compacted. If the lags are located on concrete columns, then the soil is only leveled with sand. The supports are constructed in this case around the entire perimeter at a distance of 2-3 m, depending on the thickness of the board.
• Laying lag. The bars are rested either on poles or on a gravel pillow. Between them must have roles or other waterproofing. Some experts recommend covering the entire area of the room with a film.
• The arrangement of thermal insulation. A waterproofing film is placed between the lags, on top of which mineral wool slabs are placed. Then all this is closed with vapor barrier.

Almost the same algorithm is used to form the second floor’s wooden floor; the only difference is that wooden blocks must be nailed to the lower portion of the lag before mineral wool slabs can be installed.

Boards are then placed on top of them to serve as a sort of base. Next, a particular substance is also used to form a thermal insulation layer.

Concrete floors, which are typically found on the ground floor, require extra care. Use materials that can support such a load when building walls if you want to create an overlap from concrete on the second tier.

The steps in the straightforward algorithm for installing concrete floors are as follows:

• Alignment and preparation of the base. Here the soil is also tamped and falls asleep with a sandy-jacket pillow.
• Strengthening. So that the concrete does not crack and withstand the loads, it is reinforced. To do this, use the reinforcement that is binded in the form of a grid. If the floor is supposed to be a hole in the cellar, it is important to strengthen it also in order to get a whole structure.
• Pouring. When the base is ready, a thick layer of concrete mix is poured on it. Its thickness can be from 5 to 20 cm, depending on the structure of the soil. To get a flat surface, concrete is thoroughly compacted with special machines.

Floors system on the beams

• Lags go as the basis for the floor itself, can be fixed on the beams of the overlap, which are laid on the strip or column foundation. All this is permissible only if your room will have no more than two and a half width parameters for three meters.
• In order to create a well -known air gap, the beams of the ceiling are often lifted with soil to a certain gap, while laying them on the upper waterproofing surface of the foundation itself. They can also be very fixed, or simply very tightly laid on top. In this case, there is a second option that should be chosen when the foundation simply has not yet managed to shrink, and at the moment when it will occur, this all simply will not pull the entire system of your gender, which will begin to deform from such influences.
• With a very large width of the room (more than three meters), it is reasonable to install additional columns between the walls that can create a certain rigidity of the overlap system. On all supporting structures for beams, we recommend that the waterproofing is advised to put waterproofing so that all your wooden details serve you the maximum long period.

The width of the free span, or the distance between adjacent support points, determines the thickness of the beams and the overall lag of the ceiling.

The standard states that they start with the following indicators:

• After the overlapping beams have already been installed, it is necessary to fix the lags on them. The gap between them should be calculated according to the thickness of the floor boards you selected.
• When laying the lag that consist of two separate regions, their special combination is overlapping by four hundred or five hundred millimeters is obliged to be on the pillar of the support or on the beam. Lags are obliged to align in a simple construction level, if necessary, to achieve a truly excellent horizontal, pieces of small tree wood are placed under the lags;
• Black floor boards can not always be fixed to the skull bars, basically they are simply very tightly put to each other. A vapor barrier film should be laid on top of the draft floor, while it should be fixed with brackets to the boards and lags.
• After all the lags are recorded and exhibited, we advise you to arrange a black floor, even low -quality boards may come for it. For their installation, almost the entire length of the lag in the position with below, cranial bars with dimensions of thirty by fifty millimeters are screwed;
• arranging this floating floor of the floor, lags, and after that, the boards are required to be located at least twelve by fifteen millimeters from the walls, that is, to be simply independent. In the opening between the floor system and the walls, the insulation component should be laid, which will make it possible to breathe your wood, and with sharp temperature changes, as well as humidity, it is quite easy and free to expand.
• A warming material should be placed between the lags on vapor barrier very tightly – it can be a dry backfill of slag and expanded clay, or mineral wool in rolls and mats.
• On top of the insulation should also lay another layer of vapor barrier. Separate sheets should be glued together with simple tape, after which the film should be attached to the lags with simple brackets.
• The upper layer of vapor barrier is needed so that all kinds of particles and dust of the insulation component can not get into residential premises. Thick plywood or floorboards is already laid on top of absolutely all of this floor system.

Lags, fasteners on a concrete base

In homes or apartments with concrete bases, it’s common practice to install a wooden floor on the lags to provide an insulating layer for the floor.

In this case, the process of aligning the lag on the surface will be extremely complex. particularly if raising a wooden covering to just a few centimeters above the concrete base is already part of the plan.

If your apartment is above the first floor, the lags are typically arranged and leveled before being fixed on a concrete base with what are known as anchor mounts.

The lags are drilled through in both the first and second cases. A variety of metal and plastic parts are used to raise the lags above the very base. These are essentially the so-called studs; they can be used to level out and raise or lower the lags from side to side. Once all of the lag has been removed to the necessary height, an additional section of this hairpin is simply severed with a grinding machine.

In nearly every option, thermal insulation can be added by laying insulation materials between the lags in the concrete base. These materials can also be used to block out noise coming from the apartment’s floor and the rooms where the lag is installed beneath wooden floors. You can use mineral wool, loose insulation, or polystyrene as such a warming component.

We suggest using the first and second options for fixing and stretching the vapor barrier film before moving on to the clean coating’s flooring.

Floor surface processing after completing flooring

Your floor’s surface needs to be gently fed after it has been crossed and fixed. Only then, if the bar has slightly led and the surface has become uneven after drying up, should this process be completed.

Following the cycling process, we recommend applying starting varnish in the shape of a basic fiber pattern. It takes ten to twelve days for everything to dry, and then the surface needs to be sanded.

The so-called starting varnish can be used to identify areas on the board that are not very smooth, making it easier to find rough spots and carry out additional grinding after the board has completely dried.

Following the grinding process, skirting boards are installed, which can effectively conceal the spaces between the boards and the wall of your choice. Putty should be used to seal any gaps that still exist between the skirting board and the floor after this process is finished.

After completing this thorough preparation of the floor, you should apply oil, paint, varnish, or wax to the surface’s finishing layer.

The primary purposes of the plank flooring are protection—long-lasting use that brings owners joy—as well as respectability, beauty, and aesthetics.

Oil processing

You should apply special oil to the floor if the pattern on your boards is textured and beautifully defined. When a floor is varnished, for example, it can give the floor an antistatic quality and become extremely warm and ridiculous. Wood can be penetrated by oil, which can dependable shield it from moisture infiltration.

The tree, which had an oil coating on it, has sustained far less damage from different sources, and even its original flaws are now barely noticeable. Oil can leave a tree’s pores pockmarked while preserving its organic qualities and letting everything in the space breathe, which makes the atmosphere in the space rather pleasant.

Dust will be kept off the oil-covered floor until the oil has been fully absorbed. Additionally, this floor requires the departure’s owners to use special means during the application process. A crucial point to remember is that we do not recommend placing any type of furniture with metal legs on the surface because doing so could cause unintended reactions and leave dark patches on the tree.

We suggest applying oil to your floor only in areas with higher relative humidity, such as bathrooms, kitchens, or terraces. These coatings are also ideal for the hallway and corridor since the boards are saturated with an ink that keeps the coating as resistant to erasure as possible.

There are floor coverings available that, as the saying goes, aren’t just made of oil but also contain various liquid wax additives to give your floor a matte, soft sheen. You can also use basic, clean oils on the floor; they don’t need to be left to dry for a long time, are inexpensive to apply, and are readily absorbed into the floor surface.

Moreover, floor oil can be colorless, have vivid hues that darken your tree, or, on the other hand, give it a strikingly bright color.

Applying oil in two or three doses is possible. To prevent the issues associated with the formation of an uneven film, excess oil can be immediately removed by rubbing it on or simply applying it to a brush.

The oil’s composition can be applied in multiple layers using both a hot and cold option. The more layers you apply, the faster the tree will absorb the oil. In comparison to the cold application method, the heated composition penetrates wood pores much more deeply and quickly, and it also lasts much longer.

The floor of the floor

Wax and various oil coatings are frequently mixed together. In rare circumstances, a mixture that includes bee wax and linseed oil may cause villation. This coating effectively shields the floor surface from many types of abrasions, pollutants, and moisture, but it is not resistant to strong mechanical forces or fractures. A wax coating can impart a very pleasing matte, or even golden, color to the floor.

A very wide roller should be used to apply wax in multiple layers to a surface that has already been cleaned. For the initial layer to effectively absorb into the surface, it needs to be thin. Subsequently, the floor undergoes grinding, followed by another layer of composition and grinding.

When combined with oil, wax is regarded as an environmentally friendly material that works well in both adult and child’s rooms. Because the tree that made it through this process has breathing characteristics, these floors will be able to maintain their quality for a very long time and will be able to establish a comfortable microclimate in your room.

Build the floor in two layers in a wooden structure

Double gender, in contrast to single gender, has two layers: black and finish.

A wooden floor with two bases

Lags are fixed to supporting beams with additional bars nailed to them.

Sneaking a peek at more bars

Further transverse bars on the skull are nailed boards of the black layer of sexual flooring. The non-cunning coniferous board in different thicknesses (15-45 mm) is suitable for use. The boards are given an antiseptic treatment prior to laying. There are very few remaining cracks because the laid boards are firmly driven to one another.

On the black floor, a layer of vapor barrier made of sturdy polyethylene is installed. There is overlap in his stripes.

Transparent polyethylene film vapor barrier

The draft floor is where lags are laid. The required degree of insulation (usually 50 mm) determines their height.

The insulating layer is located between the lags. The insulation material you choose will only depend on your preferences and financial situation:

• rolled roll of mineral wool;
• plate of foamed polymer (for example, polystyrene foam);
• a layer of fermented material, such as expanded clay or a mixture of clay with wood sawdust;
• Pipelines system of warm water floor.

The wooden floor’s ability to withstand heat

Over the thermal insulation layer is another layer of waterproofing. The top layer of waterproofing is not needed if a warm water floor the thickness of a wooden floor is constructed. A gap of one to one and a half centimeters is left between the upper edge of the heat-insulating layer when constructing a floor with passive thermal insulation.

This "sandwich" has downs placed on top of it. Their installation’s technology has already been explained above.

During installation, ventilation holes measuring approximately 5 centimeters in cross section are left in the corners of the room. These holes are sealed with ornamental gratings. The grilles’ surface elevates a few centimeters above the ground. This raise shields the grille from moisture.

The basement’s windows serve as additional ventilation for below ground. Every kind of ventilation window overlaps during the winter.

Preparatory work before laying

Ascertaining the soil’s condition is advised prior to installation and styling method selection. For instance, you can lay it directly on the ground in some lag areas, but first you should lay the waterproofing underneath them. A wooden floor can last over a dozen years thanks to this kind of device. Adding more sand and gravel is preferable in certain situations, but occasionally even this is insufficient. Thus, the subject matter video:

Since there are no explicit guidelines regarding adherence to room features and styling techniques, it is advisable to select the option that works best in all circumstances, including highly humid areas.

Even now, a private home’s best bet is a wooden floor over a concrete screed or cement-sandy surface. Such a floor can serve as waterproofing or a stiff foundation. However, soil planning will remain the primary focus. The soil is well tamped to allow for the regulation of building material consumption. Additionally, you can already fill the sand with a thickness of at least 20 mm on tamped soil. Waterproofing, which can be roofing material or cellophane, is applied on top of the sand.

Methods for installing wooden floors

There are three ways to make Paul out of wood in a country home. When installing load-bearing beams within a log home is unrelated to the floor installation within the structure, the first method is employed. When the wood is finished, it will float and have nothing to do with the walls. Such a layer is accumulated atop pillars of support.

When installing load-bearing beams and assembling the log house, the second and third techniques for arranging wooden floors are employed. A floor with either a single plank or two planks depending on these beams. Even for a novice, installing a single-layer floor in a wooden home is not difficult. Although this coating mounting technique is simple to use in practice, it is only appropriate for homes used during the warm months. While a single coating may be put together in a summer home or a rural area, this design is inappropriate for buildings that are intended to house occupants throughout the year.

Only a double wood floor will do in a house frequently used for year-round living. The installation of draft and final flooring, separated by the placement of materials that insulate against heat and moisture, make up the floor design of a wooden house. Usually, a dodgy board is used to assemble the upper final floor.

Features of the construction of the floor on the ground floor of wooden buildings

Certain characteristics are present when the floor is laid out on the lower first floor or basement of a wooden house above unheated basements.

Cold floor located directly on the ground (without underground)

If the soil beneath the house is dry, a cold floor with the first floor’s ceiling elevated is constructed, with no subterranean space. There are four levels to this gender’s subterranean:

• rammed sand pillow;
• dry, clean, prolonged sand;
• lag (bars of coniferous trees with a thickness of more than 15 centimeters), buried in a poured soil base and resting on the recesses in the outer walls of the room;
• single plank floor flooring with a thickness of 30-40 mm.

Insulated floor with non -heated underground space

It is advised to install such a gender with a high soil water content. In this instance, lags are positioned atop supports-stalls (made of concrete monoliths or bricks).

The process for building an insulated floor with an unheated subterranean space

1. Pilling in the underground pillows from a stamped sand peeled from organics (thickness 10-15 cm).
2. Installation of support columns at least half a meter height. A very simple and economical way to install the supports will be pouring a concrete solution into the segments of vertically standing pipes with a metal frame inside.
3. Laying a double waterproofing layer on the surface of the supports.
4. Placement of wooden dies 30 mm thick.
5. Laying bearing beam-lag.
6. In order to carry out the thermal insulation of the floor when using this technology, rails (about 15 mm in cross section) are nailed to the side ends of the lag, on which the black layer of the floor is laid from the chopped non -cut boards.
7. A vapor barrier film and a layer of insulation are laid on the black layer of the sexual transmission (the flooring level is just below the final floor). A plank floor or a coating of wood plates is laid on top of the beams.

Cold floor with heated underground space

On soils with low soil water content, construction uses a heated subsurface area with a cold floor. Up until the point of installing the draft floor, its installation technology is compatible with that of the preceding one. Without adding a layer of thermal insulation, the lag is installed on top of them and mounted by the last floor.

Materials for lag processing

Certain environmental elements, like moisture, shouldn’t have an impact on the lags. As such, you should safeguard the floor’s device in a wooden house against specific elements.

Bio -west compounds

The biologically based medication shields the tree from fungi, mold, rot, blue, beetles, and mold. Within 27–32 years, protection will be provided through one application of these funds. They are available for purchase as a concentrate. To control the quality of application, a pigmenting substance is occasionally added to the composition.

Bio-west compounds receive recognition for:

• environmental friendliness;
• minor smell;
• Lack of allergens.

In a wooden house, medication must be applied prior to floor installation.

Unbearable antiseptic

Excellent choice if the humidity in the city is high. It is also recommended for use in saunas and baths, as well as locations with higher precipitation levels and temperature variations. Using antiseptics is easy and doesn’t cost a lot of money over time. 400 grams is the approximate consumption for one meter. Four layers are needed to achieve surface application. The tree’s color will turn pistachio after work is finished.

Folk methods

Traditional methods for processing lags:

1. Transformer oil. Due to the deep penetration into the structure of the tree and embalming, this tool perfectly protects the material.
2. Resin. Birch resin will help from beetles, fungi and rotting perfectly. Its only minus is the insecurity from the fire.
3. Motor oil. Pluses – low price, good protection. Cons – too strong smell, sometimes interfering for several months.

Concrete floor in a wooden house

Filling the earth with concrete is the most popular method for laying a floor in a wooden house, but it must be dry beforehand.

Stage 1 – Preparation

The following tasks are included in preparatory work:

1. Using the level of the level, determine the main indicators and make the calculation of earthwork.
2. In order to exclude soil subsidence and cracking of the concrete floor in the future, the soil is thoroughly tamped with special devices.
3. A well -tamped sand pillow is performed on the ground. Snack will be denser if the material exceeding the required volume is 25%, moisturize and thoroughly compact with a rink or vibration plant.
4. A expanded clay or gravel layer is laid on the sand.

Stage 2 – waterproofing

The base must be waterproofed in the following step to prevent moisture absorption from the concrete screed and to shield the floor from soil moisture. Use bitumen-based roll materials to accomplish this. A thick polyethylene film is one option.

Waterproofing material is laid in layers, extending 20 cm along the wall, and the joints are glued with tape. It is crucial that the material is damage-free and homogenous.

When mastic waterproofing is used during the black sex stage, a coating method is an alternative.

Stage 3 – Black Paul filling

The hydraulic and vapor barrier layer is built upon a technological or black floor. Crushed stone in the size of 50–20 and concrete class B7.5–B10 are utilized in its production. The draft layer should be poured according to loose guidelines as long as the thickness is no more than 50 mm and the variation is not greater than 4 mm.

Stage 4 – vapor barrier and insulation

On top of the black floor is a vapor barrier material laid in the form of cheap membranes made of polyester or fiberglass. PVC membranes: a resilient material unafraid of deterioration. By installing a heater for the vapor barrier, you can raise the home’s energy efficiency by 20%. The following substances are suitable for use as insulation:

1. Mineral wool whose density does not exceed 120 kg/m3. So that she does not accumulate cotton wool, she is isolated with polyethylene.
2. Where the floor is subjected to large loads, it is recommended to use extruded polystyrene foam, which is deformed when compressed, and then accepts the initial state.
3. When using foam, to give strength from all sides, they are closed with polyethylene.

Stage 5 – final screed

A final screed, which will serve as the foundation for a decorative flooring, is completed at this stage. It may be dry or solid. In the first scenario, a solution containing a sizable filler—crushed stone, stones, tiny pebbles, or a cement-sand mixture—is made in accordance with the beacons. From the far corner of the room, they start to fill the screed, leaving the rule and the solution. After 30 days, the screed has completely dried.

A dry screed made of fiberboard, plywood, and asbestos-cement sheets, or GKLV, is an alternative. The technology is quick and easy to use.

1. Landed with plastic film.
2. A technological gap of 1 cm is left along the walls, in which soundproofing material is placed.
3. Perform sandy backfill 5 cm thick.
4. The sheet material is laid in two layers and reliably fixed with each other using self -tapping screws or construction glue.
5. Perform putty and grinding joints.

Step	Description
1	Prepare the ground by clearing it of debris and ensuring it"s level.
2	Install a moisture barrier to prevent water from seeping into the floor.
3	Lay down insulation to keep the floor warm and energy-efficient.
4	Place a vapor barrier over the insulation to prevent moisture buildup.
5	Install a subfloor made of plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) for stability.
6	Add additional support, such as joists or sleepers, if needed.
7	Secure the subfloor to the support structure using nails or screws.
8	Apply flooring material of your choice, such as hardwood, laminate, tile, or carpet.

Building a floor from the ground up for your own home can be a fulfilling project that increases the comfort and value of your house. A step-by-step guide will help you make sure your floor is efficient, long-lasting, and visually appealing.

Planning carefully is essential first and foremost. Think about how your home is laid out, the kind of flooring you want, and any unique requirements or difficulties your project might provide. Before you begin, take precise measurements and gather all required supplies and equipment.

Next, appropriately prepare the subfloor. Your flooring material is supported and stabilized by this base layer. Make sure there is no damage or debris on the subfloor and that it is level and clean. You can choose from a variety of subflooring materials, such as plywood, oriented strand board (OSB), or concrete, depending on your preferences and financial constraints.

When the subfloor is prepared, insulation installation is necessary. Appropriate insulation lowers noise transmission, increases energy efficiency, and helps control temperature. Whether it’s spray foam, foam boards, or fiberglass batts, pick the insulation material that best fits your needs and climate. To optimize the insulation’s effectiveness, carefully install it, paying attention to any gaps or overlaps.

The installation of the floor covering occurs after insulation. No matter what material you choose—hardwood, laminate, tile, carpet, or something else entirely—make sure you carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions. When laying each tile or piece, take your time and use the proper adhesives or fasteners as needed.

To improve the floor’s resilience and appearance, finish it at the end. Use wax, sealant, or varnish to shield the surface from wear, stains, and moisture. For added comfort and protection in high-traffic areas, think about installing rugs or mats. Frequent upkeep, like mopping, sweeping, and resealing, will help your floor last longer.

To sum up, creating a floor for your own home from the ground up involves meticulous planning, exact execution, and close attention to detail. You can create a floor that not only satisfies your practical needs but also adds to the beauty and value of your home for years to come by using high-quality materials and a step-by-step guide.

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