How to make a deflector – weathervane on the chimney with your own hands: calculation, drawings, detailed description

Are you looking to add a little DIY flair to your home’s heating system and increase its efficiency? One often-ignored but powerful solution is to install a deflector or weathervane on your chimney. This small addition can improve the draft of your chimney, which will ensure better airflow and more efficient fuel combustion. In this guide, we’ll go over how to make and install a chimney deflector yourself, including measurements, drawings, and thorough instructions.

To fully appreciate the advantages of a chimney deflector, one must first understand how it operates. A deflector is essentially an object that is placed atop the chimney to change the wind’s direction and speed as it crosses the chimney opening. By doing this, a negative pressure zone is created above the chimney, aiding in the more efficient removal of smoke and gases. This enhanced draft encourages more effective combustion within your heating system in addition to lowering the possibility of downdrafts and smoke entering your home.

It’s important to determine the right size and angle for a chimney deflector before starting construction to ensure optimal performance. These calculations will be impacted by variables like the size of your stove or fireplace, the height of your chimney, and the direction of the predominant winds. It is possible to guarantee that your deflector is customized to meet your unique requirements and optimize its performance by taking the time to ascertain the appropriate dimensions.

It’s time to gather the project’s materials and tools once you have the necessary computations in hand. Fortunately, there isn’t anything extremely complicated or costly needed to build a chimney deflector. Usually, all that is required are common materials like sheet metal, screws, and heat-resistant sealant, as well as simple hand tools like a saw, drill, and measuring tape. Having these materials on hand will put your deflector in working order.

The next step after assembling the components is to design a comprehensive blueprint or sketch for your chimney deflector. Throughout the building process, this drawing will act as a guide to make sure every part is cut and put together correctly. The angles and measurements you included in your computations should be carefully examined because they will have an immediate effect on the deflector’s functionality after installation. By taking the time to produce an accurate drawing, you can prevent costly errors and streamline the construction process.

Materials and shapes

Weathervanes were the only metal devices made in the 19th century; there were no other options. A range of materials are currently used to manufacture weathervanes; the choice of material will also depend on how well the mechanism works. The following materials are used in manufacturing:

• Copper. Copper construction will last a long time (about 50 years). Mechanisms for fixing the copper weathervane should also be made of copper, because with other materials can occur a chemical reaction, which will further lead to modification of the design. The color of copper structures under the influence of UV rays is able to change, from brown to green.
• Galvanized iron and steel. These materials of manufacture are not inferior to copper construction in terms of reliability and durability. These materials have the possibility of painting in any color.

• Stainless steel. Stainless steel construction will last for about 20 years. These fixtures are resistant to strong heat. The only disadvantage of using stainless steel is that such products over time lose their original appearance.
• Zinc-titanium is a modern building material, which does not differ from copper structures in its operational qualities. Service life is not less than 50 years.

Types of "caps"

All deflectors have the same primary objective, although their designs vary in certain ways. As a result, they are divided into several types:

• spherical deflector;
• Grigorovich device;
• plate variant;
• DAC vent;
• H-shaped device.

These models are time-tested and practical in their use. Although their designs are different, variations on the "weathervane" or rotating deflector work on the same principles as the standard ones. In any event, materials resistant to elevated temperatures and precipitation should be used to make the device. Copper or galvanized iron are frequently used as building materials. Enamel or polymer-coated products are among the newest options. There is contact with hot air during the installation of the element on the chimney. Thus, using plastic products is not possible. They work best on ventilation ducts only.

Ball-shaped gadgets are elegant and practical.

The quality and dependability of each element’s fastening should be considered when selecting a product. Parts that revolve must do so neatly and gently, and the lower cylinder’s measurements must match those of the chimney. Remember that the deflector is only applicable to pipes with a round shape. An additional adapter needs to be installed for chimneys that are square brick.

Principle of operation of the design

The chimney’s external device can take on any form, but it always operates on the same principle. Air streams strike the deflector’s body and enclose it as they travel along the building’s roof. A discharged zone is consequently formed. Bernoulli’s law of aerodynamics states that rarefied air masses in this region do not obstruct the draught. The deflector works by increasing the force of the smoke exit and the quality of fuel burning.

Plate deflectors are useful devices.

It is assumed that every variation of the traditional cap has a lower cylinder. This component is joined with the chimney. An "umbrella," or cover, that shields the chimney from precipitation, is added to the product from above. A few components of the design guarantee the deflector’s quality and correct operation.

A basic deflector’s design is laconic.

The chimney device’s structural components all need to be firmly fastened together. Determining the product’s parameters is particularly crucial because they affect how well it performs.

Drawings, dimensions and parameters

Assembling a deflector by hand requires measuring and sketching out the dimensions. The internal diameter of the completed chimney pipe is used to determine the product’s parameters. The product’s height (H) and diffuser width (D) must be chosen based on the data that is currently available.

The internal diameter of the chimney determines the deflector’s dimensions.

In case the necessary pipe parameter is not present in the table, utilize ratios like 1,6-1,7 d for the product’s height, 1,2-1,3 d for the diffuser’s width, and 1,7-19 d for the hood’s width. The internal diameter of the existing chimney pipe is denoted by d in this instance. The amount of material is calculated using the data that was obtained. The drawing should include a detailed representation of the construction details and should indicate all figures.

The most basic drawing can be the approximate one.

The fabrication of a chimney device is facilitated by an accurate drawing or scheme. Every element’s dimensions and fastenings are shown in the drawing.

Materials and tools

Simple tools that need to be precise, sharp, and of good quality can be used to make an improvement to the chimney draught by hand. Making a dependable and long-lasting product is impossible without considering these needs. Among the gadgets and instruments are:

• tape measure, ruler;
• scissors for cutting metal;
• a mallet, self-tapping screws with a press washer 15 mm;
• drill with a set of drills.

The construction is based on sheet metal, which should have a thickness of between 0.3 and 0.5 mm. Materials like stainless steel, aluminum, and galvanized metal are ideal for this use. Metal strips thicker than the foundation sheets are a simple way to create stiff fasteners. An alternative is to swap out the self-tapping screws with a riveting tool.

Preparation for assembly

Cutting sheet metal with scissors into pieces is a good idea, making sure to account for the parts’ required dimensions when they are unfolded. It works best to create templates for this purpose on thick cardboard, then transfer the form to the metal. Use a marker that leaves a clear trace when doing this.

All parts have templates, which makes the work easier.

All design components’ rigid fixation elements need to be cut to the exact measurements. These components enable the fastening of the upper cylinder, the protective cone, and the lower cylinder. In order to connect the cylinders and cone later on, the stiff parts must be bent into the ideal shape.

Features of this design

A small but significant drawback of the products under consideration is that when wind comes from below, swirls form beneath the structure’s hood, slowing down the smoke exit. However, there is a workaround available here as well: installing an inverted cone beneath the device itself serves as the solution to this kind of issue.

It is undeniable that deflectors on chimneys have a high level of efficiency despite their relatively simple design and working principle. Every device, including deflectors, has some drawbacks. However, if you perform a comprehensive analysis of all the features and capabilities of this device, the positives and pluses clearly outweigh the negatives and disadvantages.

Rotating mechanism of the weather vane

A thorough understanding of the weather vane’s rotational mechanism is required for it to operate correctly, silently, and for an extended period of time. It ought to be as sensitive as it is dependable and strong.

You can use one of the following technologies during assembly:

• On bearings. This method is considered to be the most reliable, durable and successful in terms of noise-free operation. It is necessary to take a steel tube of round cross-section and press in its ends standard bearings of rotation. Then the pipe is fixed on the roof, and the rhumbas are welded to it. A pin or pipe is welded to the body of the vane, the cross-section of which corresponds to the inner bore of the pressed bearings. The scheme is complicated, but practical. The collapsible design makes it easier to access the wind turbine for maintenance, repair or replacement.
• On a ball. Pipes with different cross-sections are used, when the diameter of the inner pipe is 1-2 mm less than the outer one. A steel or wooden plug is welded into the middle of the larger pipe. Then pieces of narrow pipe are welded to the roof and the weathervane. It remains to connect the fragments by filling the upper part of the outer casing with grease.

Making a deflector with your own hands

There are easy steps involved in the complex process of making a chimney protection device. In this instance, it is worthwhile to adhere to the drawing, consider the assembly method, and carefully connect every component. The following are the primary stages of assembly:

1. The body, which is the base of the diffuser, must be rolled up. The edges are drilled and fastened with rivets. Next, it is also necessary to rivet the lower and upper cylinders, but the diameter of the upper one is larger than the parameter of the lower one. The outer one is used to fasten the elements to each other. In the edge of the upper element, you need to cut and bend 6 strips-flaps; Fasteners are also needed for the cone
2. The lower cylinder is fitted with "feet" for fixing the upper element. The strips can be fixed with rivets. All elements are assembled starting from the lower cylinder and ending with the cone; Rivets allow to securely fasten the elements
3. Installation of the structure involves mounting it on the chimney pipe. To do this, you can remove the upper part of the pipe and mount all the parts in a more convenient place, and then install it on the roof. Assembly is carried out sequentially

When assembling the deflector, the components must be fastened in order, keeping in mind where the rigid strips are located. Self-tapping screws or rivets with a press washer work best for fastening, but it’s crucial to connect the pieces carefully.

Operation and repair of the deflector

With great care, the product’s design is fixed and placed atop the chimney. Due to the effective and well-assembled design that strengthens the draught, the device doesn’t require any special actions during operation. Simultaneously, the apparatus must be cleaned on a regular basis, which entails taking the structure out of the pipe. Subsequently, the metal must be painted with a specific paint or coated with an anti-corrosion compound, and all impurities must be brushed out.

The deflector needs to be kept tidy at all times.

It’s imperative to seal all gaps and straighten the surface if the structure has dents or cracks. Extended use of the product may necessitate replacement because the deflector is greatly impacted by climatic precipitation and hot air from the chimney.

Drawings, dimensions and parameters

Every kind that is currently available has unique specifications and production processes. Examine a few of these devices to gain an understanding of their design and specifications. You should also learn how to build a deflector using drawings on the chimney by hand.

Grigorovich deflector for chimney pipes: this kind is distinguished by its straightforward design and excellent performance. The device in question is 1.6 d in height, and the manufactured hood’s width shouldn’t be more than 1.9 d. When manufacturing, it’s important to pay attention to the carefully chosen diffuser width; in this instance, the parameter in question will be equal to 1.3 d (keep in mind that the value of d represents the chimney’s chosen diameter, or more specifically, its channel).

CAGI deflector: in the type in question, the diffuser’s appropriately selected size—that is, its broad part—plays a significant role. This parameter equals 1.25 d. Knowing the dimensions of the ring—its height being 1.3 d and its diameter at this height being 2.5 d—is essential for its manufacturing. Since this design includes an umbrella-shaped component, its dimensions—the part’s width, 1.8 d—must likewise be precisely determined.

Mounting the chimney on the roof

The deflector can be installed in one of two ways: either directly onto the chimney or on a section of pipe that will eventually be mounted on the chimney. Because the most difficult part of the work is done on the ground rather than the roof, the second method is thought to be the most convenient and safe.

Norms according to GOST

The following information is provided by excerpts from the current normative documents pertaining to the installation of the deflector on the pipe:

• Any nozzles on the flue duct must be mounted in such a way that they do not block the path of combustion products of fuel;
• On a gentle roof, the mouth of the chimney should be placed above the fence;
  Around the mouth of the pipe must be free space
• on a roof with slopes, the chimney header should be located above the ridge, if the space between them is less than one and a half meters, or at ridge level, when the gap from the pipe to the highest point of the roof varies within three meters;
• the deflector must not be installed on a site where neighboring buildings create an aerodynamic shadow;
• the body of the device must be well blown regardless of the wind direction;
• rotating deflectors are not suitable for chimneys of stoves in houses built in areas with cold winters;
• installation of the round deflector on the brick chimney implies the use of special adapter sockets.

Necessary tools

You’ll need the following tools and fasteners to install the deflector on the chimney:

• electric drill;
• horn wrenches;
• threaded rods;
• nuts;
• clamps;
• Two ladders (one for climbing on the roof and one for moving around the roof).

You will also require a section of pipe in order to install the device on the chimney. Its diameter needs to be marginally bigger than the flue duct’s.

Fixing the deflector

The pipe and chimney work together to complete the following tasks:

1. On the prepared section of pipe 10 cm from the edge mark the points where it is necessary to drill holes for fasteners. Similar markings are left on the wide section of the diffuser.
2. Holes are made in the pipe section and the diffuser with a drill. The parts are temporarily connected to each other, checking whether the upper and lower holes coincide. If this is not observed, the products are recognized as defective, because the fastening elements cannot be inserted evenly.
3. Studs are inserted into the holes. On both sides, both on the diffuser and on the piece of pipe, the fixtures are fixed with nuts. They are screwed evenly to protect the product from deformation.
4. With the manufactured device is sent to the roof. The construction is put on the chimney and tightened with clamps.

Should you wish to install the deflector on a brick chimney, you will need to provide yourself with a hammer and nails.

As stated above, you can mount any device—the weather vane deflector being the exception due to its unusual design.

When utilizing the device with a wind rose, a drill bit is used to make three holes in the chimney. To later insert bolts into them, holes are made at the same level. When the weather vane’s ring portion is inserted into the chimney flue cut, these fasteners are inserted into the holes. Place the axle into the ring-shaped bearing, then hook the cylinder, the device’s web, and the hood on it in turn. Brackets or rivets hold the weather vane deflector’s components together.

Technological tricks

An improperly designed chimney umbrella

The first guideline is to avoid building a chimney in the style of a cylinder vault or a double-sloped roof (refer to the instructions below). Fig. (right). These should only be used with mobile appliances where the umbrella’s axis can be oriented in any direction toward the wind. or as adornment on a fake fireplace. Homes featuring bio-fireplaces are in vogue. In other situations, the draught will follow the elements’ whims all the way to the opposite.

Next, you will need to learn some tinsmithing techniques in order to create a deflector on the chimney by hand. Firstly, the sheets should be folded (bent), as shown in Fig. 3. rice below. The deflectors’ parts are typically connected by a single standing seam, although occasionally a double standing seam is employed for aesthetic reasons on the umbrellas of imperfect deflectors.

Assembling thin metal sheets into a rebate by folding them

The pattern of the deflector parts must then be marked out in accordance with the outer dimensions. We provide a selection of video tutorials on how to make the various parts of smoke deflectors for those who learn best visually:

The umbrella is round:

Pyramidal (tent) umbrella with the top in the center:

Elongated faceted umbrella:

Transition from square to circle (square inside a circle):

Refer to "Flue Baffles" for information on how crucial closed deflectors are for low-power furnaces and boilers. moreover.

Transition from circle to circle:

All of these patterns can be made with just a ruler and a circular, like a goat’s foot (with a pencil inserted). We provide a range of projections and formulas for precise part reaming construction for those who wish to thoroughly study the fundamentals before beginning work. Take note of the longer umbrellas; these are placed on chimneys with two to three strokes. The flue channels are set up in a row, with each one being the smallest allowed for this heater cross-section. There is very little chance of blowing two channels at once, and there is essentially no chance of blowing any of the three channels.

Here in Fig. – data for the construction of a truncated cone, which in the deflectors at least plenty of. Initial data – cone height H, radii of top and base R1, R2. Pay attention also to the mortise marked in red: it is a reamer of the very same Grigorovich cone. The forming angle (30 degrees in this case) is found as φ = arcsin(H/r), where H is the height of the cone and r is the base radius. Radius R is determined similarly to L for a truncated cone, but H and r are squared. However, for those who have not forgotten the Pythagorean theorem, it is already so clear.

Constructing a tent sweep (pattern) with a pyramid top in the middle

It is not difficult to deal with the reamer of a one-center tent after the cones, as shown in fig. There is just one "but": the example pattern’s allowance (located on the right in Fig.) is made for a single riveting to increase the solder joint’s strength.

How to build a Grigorovich cone and a truncated cone sweep

A single fold of metal up to 0.6 mm thick can be joined by taking allowances of 20 mm on one side and 21+2+20 mm on the other. 30, 31,5+3+30 mm, and 0,6-1,5 mm, respectively, are the metal measurements. However, compared to rebated seams, soldered and riveted seams are generally easier to make, look neater, and resist corrosion better. Naturally, it is technically impossible to rivet and solder the sheets if the iron is covering the roof. However, the deflector umbrella is a distinct issue. Put it together using rivets and solder so:

1. The reamer is marked and cut out;
2. Drill the holes for the rivet;
3. Bend inward at 90 degrees sides (wings) of the allowance;
4. Rivet the edge;
5. The boards are clamped together using wooden liners with clamps;
6. Solder the seam.

A hip tent (umbrella) chimney is constructed and assembled similarly; refer to fig.

Building a hip tent (umbrella) chimney sweepsweep

The diffuser of an aerodynamically perfect closed deflector, also known as an adapter-skirt from a square to a circle (circle inside) for the installation of a chimney-zoning on a brick chimney, is the last and most intricate detail. The construction rules are straightforward (refer to fig. ), but they do demand accuracy and precision in the job.

Building a sweep (pattern) for the chimney deflector’s diffuser (skirt) that represents the change from square to circle (circle inside).

Note: Additionally, bending the diffuser/skirt shape inwards may help equalize the draught of imperfect and open deflectors on a round pipe and significantly lower the likelihood of blowing into the latter (see Fig. 2.2.2. fig.). However, the work is extremely intricate and requires hammering out the adapter on a hard wood dummy after it has been assembled from circle to circle. chimney deflectors with a diffuser with a curved pattern

Variant with your own hands

Assembling the deflector on the chimney by hand doesn’t present any unique challenges because of the drawings. The various deflector design variations that will improve the efficiency of your home’s heating system are listed below. To transfer particular shapes to the billets for the deflector, the diagrams can be enlarged to actual dimensions.

CAGI

When making a deflector, the size of the chimney on which it will be installed is taken as a basis. It is denoted by a small Latin d. All other elements are a certain part of this diameter. For example, the largest part in the deflector should exceed the diameter of the chimney by 25%, to put it simply, it should be multiplied by 1.25. For the ring it will be necessary to double the size of the chimney. The height of the ring will be greater by 20% or multiplied by 1.2. The dimension from the base of the ring to the tapered part of the deflector is equal to the radius of the chimney. The height of the diffuser is equal to the sum of the radius of the chimney and the height of the ring. The cover or umbrella is mounted on top, it should exceed the size of the chimney by 70%. More clearly these dimensions can be assessed on the drawing of the deflector, which is presented below.

In order to assemble the deflector without any problems, it is better to make a paper model or a sample of each individual part, so that they can be transferred to the sheet material. One of the most difficult parts to make a mold for is the diffuser for the deflector. It represents a truncated cone. For this purpose, it will be necessary to calculate the length of the circumference of the pipe on which it will be mounted, as well as the length of the circumference of the outer outlet of the deflector. Between them draw a line of its height. The easiest is to make an umbrella for a deflector, the drawing of which can be seen below. To do this, you need to draw a circle with the specified diameter, and then inside the circle from the center to draw a triangle with an angle at the top of 30 ° and just cut it out.

The outer ring of the deflector for the chimney is an ordinary cylinder, which is formed from a rectangle, the same is the inlet pipe. It is better to make the working parts of the deflector on cardboard, t. к. They will be easier to work with. The next step is to transfer the outline of each part of the deflector on the tin base. You will need a permanent marker or an ordinary nail. It should be remembered that each individual piece will be folded later on and a margin is needed to organize the seam. Therefore, it is necessary to add 2 cm for overlap to one of the sides where the cut will be made. For cutting the parts of the deflector you will not need a bolgarka, everything can be freely done with metal scissors. The connection is made by means of aluminum rivets. If you have a familiar tinsmith, he will be able to provide special grooves, which are processed with a mallet. After assembling the deflector, it is mounted on the chimney pipe. This can also be done with rivets or self-tapping screws. In other cases, a stainless steel clamp can be used.

Grigorovich

The Grigorovich deflector’s assembly is a little bit easier. Thus, it is advised that you go with this one if you don’t want to fiddle around for a while. All the dimensions required to create such a deflector are shown in the drawing below. Another factor considered is the diameter of the pipe on which the deflector is to be installed.

It is also advised to create molds in order to streamline the process. Below is a diagram showing possible configurations for this kind of deflector. As you can see, the chimney deflector’s primary component is a truncated cone. The length of the circles, which is determined by the diameter of the pipe and the coefficient, is drawn in the same manner as in the previous variant. Additionally, the formula for determining the deflector’s truncated cone’s height is provided.

The process of transferring the part outlines is the same as it was in the prior instance. Making a tiny hole that will act as a seam is required. This deflector model has an umbrella with a different shape made up of two identical cones that are attached to each other. To get the desired swirl, this is required. Utilizing aluminum rivets as fasteners is also preferable. Precipitation does not cause corrosion on them. It will be necessary to add multiple sections of reinforcement that can withstand wind loads in order to fix the deflector.

Functions and tasks of the deflector and wind protection of the chimney

The installation of a wind-blocking device is necessary for the chimney to operate safely. This is the source of the back draft, and the chimney vane keeps snow and rain from falling into the chimney. Moreover, it will serve as a shield against dust and debris. These devices are especially important when raising the pipe above the level required by the wind retaining zone is not physically feasible.

Furthermore, the chimney vane’s capabilities go beyond that. The chimney pipe won’t last very long if it isn’t installed on it because of the constant wind, rain, and snow pressure. The truth is that continuous wetting causes the upper portion of the pipe to progressively deteriorate. Additionally, during the winter, when there is a temperature differential between minus and plus degrees and condensation, water can enter the pipe’s microcracks and freeze and thaw. The strength of the chimney weakens and eventually collapses as a result of the chimney elements’ constant expansion and contraction.

Chimney fan

The smoke fan is displayed as a draught modulator and an electric motor. It can automatically generate the necessary draft in the chimney. The ideal place for such a device to be installed is in the fireplace’s chimney, which has a narrow internal cross-section. It should be remembered that smoke extractors require a power supply ranging from 10 to 220 V, depending on the fan model.

Installing hoods, mushrooms, and umbrellas over the chimney is not recommended because it lessens the draft.

Give the article a star and forward the URL:

This post will walk you through the steps of making a chimney deflector, a cheap and easy way to increase the insulation and heating in your house. Easy-to-follow drawings, precise calculations, and a thorough explanation will help you create your own deflector with the least amount of difficulty. This do-it-yourself project can improve the efficiency of your chimney, ensuring better airflow and retaining more heat inside your home by redirecting wind and preventing downdrafts. Whether you’re a novice to home improvement or a seasoned do-it-yourselfer, this guide will give you the know-how to approach this project with confidence and reap the rewards of a cozier, warmer house.

Step-by-step instructions for creating a weathervane

The Internet offers a sizable assortment of variations for making a weathervane on the chimney. This process won’t be too tough with the aid of drawings.

Unusual weather vane model

Chimney weathervanes with stainless steel construction for longer lifespan.

An alloy of copper or stainless steel with a minimum thickness of 1 mm can be used to create such a model. The first and second materials exhibit favorable anti-corrosion properties. They are composed robustly and are fairly light.

Advice: You can greatly extend the weathervane’s service life by using copper as the manufacturing material, but you should factor in the cost of the metal in your estimate.

To manufacture a weathervane on your own, take the following actions:

1. It is necessary to select the dimensions and determine the approximate weight of the future structure. With the help of the figure below, this item can be easily understood with this point.

The diameter of the tube, the thickness of the metal, the weight of the bearings, the axle, and the bushing must all be known in order to compute the weight of the vane.

1. From the prepared sheet of metal cut out the elements of the weathervane.

Cut out the stainless steel parts of the chimney weather vane using metal scissors.

1. All components are assembled according to the instructions on the picture.

Schematic instructions for putting together the weather vane’s structural components.

1. Assembled protection element to be installed on the chimney.

Weather vane model, ready-made. The air inlet is represented by the blue arrow, and the combustion products outlet by the red arrow.

Installing a weather vane of this type is done on the chimney pipe head. In addition to being ornamental, this component aids in avoiding a back draft.

Advice! Weather-related factors, such as rain, hail, strong winds, or abrupt temperature swings, drastically shorten the chimney vent’s lifespan. For protection, a weather vane is installed for this reason.

How to make a deflector yourself

The most basic kind of deflector that we have selected is the Grigorovich unit, which can be manufactured on our own. For most users, this design increases the draft by 20–25%, which is quite satisfactory. Locate a drawing of the apparatus and acquaint yourself with the suggested measurements and component list. You will need a small piece of galvanized tin, metal-cutting scissors, and a tool for special rivet installation in order to make a deflector.

An illustration of a deflector that can be manufactured by oneself

How to determine the deflector’s size

Step 1: Transfer the device’s component dimensions to the metal. Draw two circles and two arcs with the appropriate diameters on the surface to accomplish this. It is best to use a special tinsmith’s circular for assistance. It is not an issue if you do not have one. Place a felt-tip pen or pencil in the center of the metal and secure it with a thread whose length equals the circle’s radius. This simple gadget has been put to the test in real life and functions flawlessly. Remove the blanks using metal shears.

Mark a section of tin and cut out the blanks.

Step 2: Put the deflector housing together. In order to accomplish this, drill holes in the reamer’s edges that correspond to the rivets’ diameter. You should drill on one side first, then bend the body temporarily and mark the opposite side. If they don’t match precisely, there will be serious issues when installing the rivets.

Make holes all the way around, then fasten the body together with rivets.

Step 3: Determine the area that needs to be cut in order to bend round components. However, leaving it in place is not required because the excess metal is needed to join the bend’s rivets. You can cut on one radius and choose the ideal element type by practicing, or you can use formulas to determine the bend’s angle. The second option operates much more quickly without compromising the device’s functionality in any way.

Mark a circular workpiece and cut along the marked line.

Step 4: Bend the circles, drill holes, and rivet them in place. There is usually no need for the 3–4 cm gap between rivets because there isn’t any mechanical stress there.

Rivets hold the cutout’s edges together.

Problems of chimneys and the purpose of the deflector of the CAGI type

A well-designed chimney with a built-in draught typically accomplishes two goals rather well:

• remove gaseous by-products released during combustion of fuel in the heater;
• provide the necessary air supply for a better draught.

Kindly take note! When the natural draught and the efficient operation of the chimney and heating device as a whole are disrupted, malfunctions in the operation of chimneys without a forced draft are possible.

Such malfunctions may result from:

• errors in design, when excessively narrowed flue passage can not provide the necessary level of natural draught;
• installation errors, when the chimney is not raised to a height sufficient to create the necessary pressure and self-draught in it;
• strong wind gusts, in which the air entering the chimney obstructs the natural draught, which can lead to smoke in the room and even to the stoppage of the heater"s operation.

The most crucial task in the operation of chimneys and natural draught ventilation systems is successfully resolved by the deflector created by experts at the Central Aerohydrodynamic Institute. It becomes a barrier to wind flow, preventing it from passing and resulting in a drop in pressure. The natural draught level is raised when the mass created in the chimney or ventilation duct is drawn into the space with thin air.

If there isn’t enough draught in the chimney, you can increase it with the use of a deflector.

Installing a deflector TsAGI can solve the following issues in addition to problems with the natural ventilation system or chimney’s operation:

• Raise the level of natural draught in a chimney or ventilation system working on the principle of natural inducement;
• prevent back drafts from occurring, even with a large air outlet diameter;
• prevent precipitation from entering the system;
• Act as a spark arrestor, increasing the level of fire safety;
• protect the chimney or ventilation system from rodents and insects, small birds, dust, leaves and other debris;
• slowing down the process of destruction of the chimney header.

The principle of operation of the weathervane

The following procedure describes how the deflector or vane works:

• when the wind blows into the chimney from top to bottom, the combustion products of the fuel are drawn out by the lower annular opening of the device;
• if the air currents act from bottom to top, the gases are extracted by the upper ring slot;
• When the wind blows horizontally, carbon monoxide and other unnecessary substances are sucked out of two openings at once.

When the wind is blowing upward, the weather vane performs the worst. This is because air currents are repelled by the umbrella and are directed in the opposite direction of the combustion products’ movement.

By compelling the wind to blow in a specific direction, the apparatus increases the draft.

The umbrella of the deflector is shaped like two cones joined by bases so that it can function properly in any direction of wind. One function of the lower cone is to push apart and repel the flows of fuel and air from combustion products, guiding them toward the chimney outlet hole.

Materials Needed	Steps to Make a Deflector-Weathervane on the Chimney
Metal Sheet (preferably stainless steel)	1. Measure the diameter of your chimney.
Drill	2. Calculate the size of the deflector based on the diameter.
Marker	3. Draw the design of the deflector on the metal sheet.
Scissors or Metal Cutting Tools	4. Cut out the deflector shape carefully.
Screws and Nuts	5. Make holes on the edges of the deflector for mounting.
Measuring Tape	6. Bend the edges of the deflector slightly upwards.
Hammer	7. Attach the deflector to the chimney using screws and nuts.
Paint (optional)	8. Paint the deflector if desired for better aesthetics and protection against rust.
Compass	9. Ensure the deflector is securely fixed and facing the direction of prevailing winds.

Your heating system will operate more efficiently and safely if you build a homemade deflector-weathervane for your chimney. It can be a satisfying project. A well-designed deflector can increase the draft of your chimney and promote better airflow and more effective combustion by rerouting wind and preventing downdrafts.

Starting this project requires precise calculations to determine the right size and shape of deflector for your chimney. A deflector’s design depends on several factors, including the chimney height, diameter, and direction of the prevailing wind. By measuring and taking these factors into account, you can design a deflector that will minimize downdrafts to the greatest extent possible.

A deflector-weathervane’sdesigncan be visualized with the use of drawings and diagrams. You can better understand how the deflector will fit onto your chimney and how it will affect airflow by looking at detailed sketches. These drawings act as a construction blueprint, taking you step-by-step through the assembly procedure.

Precision and attention to detail are necessary in the construction of the deflector. Utilizing long-lasting materials like aluminum or stainless steel guarantees durability and corrosion resistance. You can assemble the deflector with confidence if you follow the thorough instructions in this article because every part has been thoughtfully chosen to perform its job well.

To guarantee that your deflector remains functional after installation, give it routine maintenance and inspections. Periodic checks are necessary for optimal operation because weather and wear can affect performance over time. Maintaining your DIY deflector-weathervane will improve chimney draft and give you more peace of mind during the chilly winter months.

To sum up, installing a deflector-weathervane on your chimney is a do-it-yourself project that can improve safety and heating efficiency significantly. You can design a deflector that efficiently reduces downdrafts and improves the functionality of your chimney system with meticulous planning, precise calculations, and close attention to detail during construction.

Video on the topic

Weather vane deflector on the chimney

chimney vane

The second weather vane on the chimney with your own hands part 1

Turbodeflector with your own hands (Dimensions). Roof Ventilation.Ventilation System.

A weathervane is nothing else but a chimney cap, a chimney flue