How to make a comb for heating with your own hands

The importance of finding cost-effective ways to heat our homes increases as the temperature drops and energy prices rise. The use of DIY heating combs is one remedy that is becoming more and more well-liked. These easy-to-use yet efficient gadgets can reduce energy usage and help provide warmth throughout your living area. This post will explain how to make your own heating comb, which will provide warmth and cost savings for your home.

Heating combs function by warming up a network of pipes or channels using a heat source, such as a radiator or hot water. The heat is then uniformly distributed throughout the house thanks to the thoughtful placement of these pipes. Heating combs use the principles of radiation and convection to maintain a comfortable and even temperature throughout your house.

Saving money is one of the key benefits of creating your own heating comb. While heating systems that are professionally installed can be costly, inexpensive materials that are easily found at most hardware stores can be used to make homemade heating combs. Moreover, the design’s simplicity implies that you don’t need highly developed technical knowledge to assemble one. You can build a heating system that is competitively priced and comparable to commercial options with a few simple tools and some know-how.

The customizability that comes with making your own heating combs is another advantage. Homemade heating combs can be customized to meet your unique needs, unlike store-bought heating solutions, which might not be appropriate for every home’s layout or heating requirements. You can customize the size and arrangement of your heating comb to achieve maximum effectiveness and efficiency, regardless of the size of the house or apartment you’re heating.

Materials Needed	Procedure
Copper piping, fittings, pipe cutter, soldering equipment, flux, sandpaper	Measure and cut copper pipes to desired lengths. Sand the ends to remove burrs. Fit pipes together using fittings. Clean joints, apply flux, and solder them together securely.

We’ll dive into the DIY world of home heating in this article by learning how to make your own radiator covers. You can improve the effectiveness of your heating system and give your living area a little more individuality by making a custom cover. We’ll walk you through every step of the process, from material selection to detailed construction, providing helpful advice and insights along the way. A fulfilling project that can add warmth and visual appeal to your living space is creating your own radiator cover, whether your goal is to increase safety, boost energy efficiency, or simply give your house a stylish makeover.

How to make a distribution collector for heating a house with your own hands

The efficiency of the home’s sophisticated heat engineering complex, the heating system, depends on installation regulations being followed. Experts advise installing a distribution collector if it has multiple circuits so that you can regulate the heating of each circuit independently.

What is it needed for?

There is a rule that must be followed when installing water systems: the feed pipe’s diameter cannot be greater than the combined diameter of all layers. This rule applies to heating equipment and reads as follows: two contours with ½ inch pipe diameter are permitted in the system if the boiler’s output fitting has a diameter of one inch. Such a system will function well for a small house heated solely by radiators.

Warm floors are actually one of the more prominent heating features in a private home or cottage. heating the garage, utility rooms, and multiple floors. If they are linked by a layering system, there won’t be enough pressure in each circuit to heat the radiators efficiently, which will result in an uncomfortable home temperature.

As a result, collectors operate branched heating systems; this method enables you to independently modify each circuit and establish the ideal temperature in every room. Thus, you need a temperature of about plus 23–25º for the nursery and enough plus 10-15ºΡ for the garage. Furthermore, warm floors shouldn’t get hotter than 35 to 37 degrees because that will make them uncomfortable to walk on and may cause the flooring to warp. This issue can be resolved with the aid of a collector and locking temperature.

In this video, a collector system is used to heat a home.

Heating system collector groups are offered in their completed state, albeit with varying configurations and discharge counts. Selecting the appropriate collector assembly and installing it yourself or with the help of experts is an option.

Nonetheless, the majority of industrial models are general-purpose and may not always meet the requirements of a particular home. If they are modified or refined, the expenses can go up dramatically. Therefore, considering the characteristics of a particular heating system, it is generally easier to collect it from separate blocks with your hands.

Collector group for the heating system assembly

The figure depicts the layout of the universal collector group. It is made up of two blocks with the appropriate amount of coolant installed for both direct and reverse currents. Flow meters are mounted on the supply (direct) manifold, and thermal drives are positioned on the opposite side to control the temperature of the reverse water in each circuit. They will assist you in determining the necessary coolant flow speed, which will control the heating radiators’ temperature.

Air valves, a circulation pump, and a pressure gauge are all installed on the collector distribution node. With the help of brackets, the supply and reverse collectors are integrated into a single block that is fastened to the wall or cabinet. Such a block costs between 15,000 and 20,000 rubles. Furthermore, it will be obviously inappropriate to install it if only a portion of the bounces are involved.

The video demonstrates how to install the completed block.

Grebanka – collector knot

Thermal drives and flow meters are the most costly components of the collector distribution unit. You can purchase a collector node, or "comb," and install the required control devices manually only where they are required to avoid paying too much for extra elements.

Brass tubes measuring ¾ or 1 inch in diameter are used for the rowing, and there are a specific number of sets with ½ inch heating pipe diameter. The bracket serves as another link between them. The reverse manifold layouts come with plugs that let you install thermal drives on all or just some of the contours.

Certain models have the ability to manually adjust the supply with the assistance of cranes. These combs feature a cast housing and a threaded fitting or nut on the ends, making it easy to quickly assemble a collector from the necessary number of layers.

You can make a collector entirely by hand or collect from individual elements to save a collector for heating systems.

Do it yourself

It is possible to make the heating system’s distribution collector independently out of metal or polypropylene. Functionality is unaffected by material selection, so go with what will be easiest for you to mount yourself.

A metal-welding inverter, specialized equipment for welding polypropylene pipes, and the necessary labor are required for the installation of a polypropylene collector unit.

Calculation and distribution of contours

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the required number of heating contours and perform the drawing of their connection. It is advisable to highlight individual contours to the following heating devices:

The collector’s geometric measurements should guarantee that the locking and adjusting mechanisms of each layer are easy to access and lightweight. It is recommended to leave an average of 10-15 cm between layers and 20-30 cm between the supply and reverse manifold.

The pipes used to connect heating radiators typically have a ½-inch diameter, while the collector measures 1-1½ inches. This ensures that the pipes match the boiler nozzle diameter. The supply and reverse pipe connections for gas and electric boilers may be made upper and lower; only lateral connections for solid fuels are permitted.

Polypropylene knot

It is constructed using fittings and leftover polypropylene pipe scraps. Welding pipes requires a specialized tool. A polypropylene pipe measuring Ø32 mm and tees measuring 32/32/16 mm are utilized for the feed and reverse manifold, and they are joined by a polypropylene welding apparatus. Before using pipe scraps, the mode is chosen.

The drain valve is connected to the installed tee 32/32/32 mm at one end, while the air valve is installed at the other. At the opposite end of the collector is an introductory valve, to which the boiler’s supplier or reverse pipe is connected.

Court valves are linked to the supply collector’s 16 mm settings and the flow meters on the other end. Using brackets, the acquired nodes are fastened to the wall.

Brass fittings knot

In a similar vein, a collector can be put together using pre-made brass fittings like valves and tees. They are gathered using a liquid fixer or linen dad in accordance with a prearranged plan. Such a collector has the benefits of being inexpensive and small in size. in contrast to the group of completed collectors. However, careful attention to detail and precision are needed during assembly to prevent leaks during operation.

Watch video: DIY collector nodes constructed from brass and polypropylene

With a profile pipe with your own hands

Welding is the most challenging design element in the distribution collector. constructed from pipe with a square and round cross section. These collectors have a hydraulic shotgun-stream distributor and are used to heat large objects with multiple contours.

Use a round section with the calculated diameter and a profile pipe measuring 80 by 80 or 100 by 100 mm when manufacturing the collector. The technology and detailed instructions needed to manufacture a collector are provided below.

• It is necessary to prepare a sketch of the future heating system. To do this, you need to determine all the connected contours and diameters of the pipes, as well as the equipment additionally connected to them – flow meters, manometers, circulation pumps.
• On the sheet of millimeters or leaf into the cage on the scale, perform a drawing of the collector node, withstanding the distance necessary for the convenience of installing the distance. Between the pipes, it is recommended to make 10-20 cm distance, between collector units-20-30 cm. In the drawing, you need to indicate not only the distances, but also the diameters of the pipes.
• Decide on the installation site of a collector group and auxiliary equipment: an expansion tank, a pump, a boiler security group, boiler. Check the overall dimensions and make sure that the collector group is installed without interference with other equipment.

• Profile pipe is marked in accordance with the scheme.

• The gas cutting openings are made by the gas cutter.

• They welcome nozzles to them – small segments of a round diameter pipe with pre -chopped thread. First grabbed with point welding, and then boiled along the contour and carefully protect the seams.

• Fasteners are welded to the resulting block.

• The resulting collector group is cleaned from scale, pollution, rust, after which it is primed and covered with heat -resistant paint for metal. For the convenience of maintenance, the supply and reverse contours are best painted in different colors, traditionally – red and blue.

The video demonstrates how a camshaft is made from a profile pipe.

It is advised to install hydraulic arrows in complex systems with many contours serving different purposes. These arrows will distribute and align the coolant’s straight and reverse flows to a safe pressure and temperature.

Video: hydraulic arrow: its function and working principle.

Solar collector – the possibility of saving

Multiple coolant heating sources can be connected to the heating circuit. Solid fuel boilers frequently operate in tandem with electric ones. This enables you to maintain the heating system’s operating mode during the night or for a few days when the hosts are away.

However, this regime is not economical because electricity is one of the priciest resources. By installing a solar manifold, you can use modern advancements to harness solar energy to heat the coolant.

Installing a solar collector allows for year-round use, even in overcast weather. It works best on sunny days, reaching temperatures of between 70 and 90 degrees, depending on the boiler’s shape.

DIY solar collector

The solar manifold is an extremely easy-to-assemble device that can be made by hand. Although a homemade solar water heater may not be as efficient as an industrial model, considering their cost—between ten and one hundred fifty thousand rubles—a solar manifold you make yourself will quickly pay for itself.

To manufacture it, you will need:

• A coil of a metal tube, usually copper, can be taken suitable from the old refrigerator;
• scraping a copper pipe with a 16 mm thread on one side;
• plugs and valves;
• pipes for connecting to a collector node;
• a boiler tank with a volume of 50 to 80 liters;
• wooden strips for the manufacture of the frame;
• a sheet of polystyrene foam 30-40 mm thick;
• glass, you can take the window;
• Aluminum thick foil.

After the coil is freed from the freon residue, it is cleaned with a stream of running water. They construct a frame the size of a slightly larger coil out of a wooden rail or bar. To remove the snake tubes, holes are drilled in the lower portion of the frame.

A leaf of polystyrene foam is screwed to the reverse side, which will serve as the collector’s bottom. Excellent thermal insulation properties of this material will aid in lowering heat loss.

The foil is positioned from the interior, fully overlapping the frame’s wall and bottom. Stapler is used to secure foil to brackets. Insert a coil so that its ends spread out into the opening in the frame.

The solar manifold is secured to stacks or rails by a glass cover on top. The coil’s ends have pipes fastened to them so they can be connected to the heating collector unit. Flexible eyeliner or adapters can be used for this.

The collector is positioned on the roof’s southern slope. Pipes are introduced into a storage tank that has an air valve, and then they go to the heating camshaft.

How-to video: building a solar heater at home

The best method for connecting different heaters to one or more heating sources is the collector heating system. With it, you can maintain a constant and well-coordinated operation of all system components, as well as a comfortable and consistent temperature throughout the house.

Distribution comb for the heating system

In radiation wiring of pipes, collector nodes are installed using distribution crests for heating. You can mix low-temperature and high-temperature heating with this scheme. It is feasible to keep each room at a different temperature by turning off the heating in that room. The collector cabinet contains all of the equipment.

Rowing design for the heating system

Comb: a foundation for adding more hardware.

The heating switching comb is essentially a hole-filled pipe. This component is simple, but it serves as the foundation for adding more equipment. Two heating system distribution combs (one for feed and one for return) must be installed on them in order to assemble the collector:

• thermostatic heads;
• servo drives;
• flow meters;
• air vents.

Thermal tacks are made to manually change the coolant’s temperature. Servo drives, which are energy-dependent components that function as a result of the working substance’s thermal expansion, are installed on them in order to automate the process. Servo drives function silently because they lack any rotating parts and are not motors.

In order to align hydraulic resistance in the various coolant circulation rings, certifiers are required.

This is required in order for water to enter each heat exchanger in the heating circuit. To remove air from the collector unit, air vents are required. They work autonomously, without assistance from humans.

The purpose of the camshaft of heating

Heating collector crests are installed when radiation wiring pipes. They are necessary to divide the coolant flows among various circulation rings. For instance, the house has warm floors in addition to standard battery-operated heating. In this instance, it is necessary to keep the temperature constant in every room. It also happens that you have to turn off the heating completely in some rooms. For instance, you don’t have to submerge the house in the summer, but it should still function in the bathroom. and cozy flooring.

There are certain limitations when waterproofing the basement yourself after the house is built because you have to work from the inside.

The application of thermal insulation over a vapor barrier is the only way to insulate an attic overlap.

You must either fully block the thermostatic valve or tighten the flowmeter on the heating system’s return to stop the circulation. Installing thermostats in the appropriate rooms is necessary to keep the temperature at the desired level during the heating season. The thermostat receives commands from the servo drive wires that connect to it, telling it when to overlap or open a thermostatic valve. Certain thermostats are connected to the servo via radio waves via a specialized converter.

Installation of a comb for high -temperature heating

The installation circuit will be fairly easy if your floor isn’t heated and the heating comb’s camshaft only shares coolant flows between the radiators. Assume that our boiler isn’t

Collector unit featuring a blending knot.

Separate installation is required for the expansion tank and pump, respectively. The feed is sent directly to the collector from the heater. Installing a ball crane with an American is required prior to the comb itself, in case it becomes necessary to remove the equipment for maintenance or replacement.

Installing the following is required at the distributor’s return to the boiler:

The aforementioned components are put in this order. Batteries are connected to the collector via pipes without the need for any extra equipment. Not even ball valves are fitted. Thermostatic valves and flow meters can be used to disable a contour if that is necessary.

Installation of a warm floor of a warm floor

The water in the pipes should not be 45 degrees hot; a warm floor is the result of a low-temperature heating system. For comfort, the ideal temperature for the floor’s surface should be between 36 and 37 degrees. The collector installation is carried out in the same manner as for high-temperature heating if the warm floor is the only source of heat. The boiler controls the coolant’s heating intensity.

The crib circuit is altered if conventional batteries are used in conjunction with the low-temperature heating system. Installing a mixing unit is required in this situation. This portion of the contour is responsible for blending water from the return. A thermostatic valve is the central component of the mixing node. The thermostatic valve is mounted directly on the pipes, and if there is a wind floor, it is connected to the common manifold.

It is critical that the thickness of wall insulation be accurately calculated. You can find the calculator on the network.

The installation of a separate comb warm floor is necessary if there are numerous low-temperature heating rings, which is typically necessary. It has two pipes that connect it to the first manifold like a typical radiator. The mixing valve, which is positioned in front of the second collector, instantly controls the temperature in each and every warm floor circuit.

How to make a comb for heating with your own hands

Polypropylene is the easiest material to work with when creating a comb by hand for a heated floor. Note right away that thermostatic valves and flow meters cannot be installed in such a collector. The shut-off valves that are positioned in front of each pipe’s comb are the most reliable component.

The plan is right, but the way it was carried out is repulsive.

For production, you will require:

The goal is to join the polypropylene tees into a single line. A chopped pipe must be used for couplings. Verify that the tees on each tee belong to the same plane. Soldering polypropylene couplings with the transition to a metal thread is required right away on the nozzles. Some people install plastic ball valves in front of the coupling; however, this is not advised as you will have to redo the entire comb because you cannot remove them.

Only those contours where the length of every circulation loop is equal or nearly equal may utilize the DIY heating comb. It is not possible to adjust the hydraulic resistance because there are no holes for the installation of flow meters. One of the loops’ resistance will increase with its length. There, water simply won’t flow.

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Rowman for the heating system: Review of installation rules + algorithm for assembly with your own hands

Why do you need a comb?

How well-performing and effective is the heating system? It should supply the necessary water heating as well as a comfortable temperature in every room of the house. It also needs to be the easiest to maintain and safe to use.

The comb’s ability to cut off the coolant supply to a different circuit circuit is one of its features. This enables you to perform maintenance without generally turning off the heating.

The functional component of the collector (radial) heating scheme, also known as a collector or comb, is solved with the aid of all these normal operating conditions. Assume that the pipes or radiator in the house suddenly start to leak, as is common. This local issue can be resolved without turning off the heating entirely if there is a comb. Sufficiently, only obstruct the intended valve; only deactivate the area requiring repair.

Furthermore, a single collector installed throughout the cottage’s entire heating system will effectively handle the task of managing the heating process. Every room in the house will have temperature controls that he can operate. You can easily and effectively regulate the heating system by using this device. The costs of means and forces are minimized concurrently.

Both the distributor and the regulator

The distribution comb’s fundamental function is as a centralized node that facilitates the distribution of coolant by destination points. It serves an equally important purpose in the heating system as either the same boiler or the circulation pump. He modifies the temperature by distributing heated water across the freeways.

The two combs that make up the collector block are used in this scheme to supply the system with coolant through one and return it through the other.

This node can be referred to as the coolant’s temporary drive. It can be likened to a barrel that is filled with water, where the liquid emerges through multiple holes rather than just one. In this instance, all of the holes’ water pressure is the same. The device’s basic operating principle and the ability to deliver a uniform distribution of heated fluid simultaneously are concluded.

The collector, which is typically constructed of black or stainless steel, appears from the outside to be a node of two combs. Its conclusions are intended to be used in conjunction with heating devices. The quantity of these conclusions ought to line up with the quantity of heating devices that are served. The device can be regarded as dimensionless if there are more of these devices because the node can grow.

Every comb has locking mechanisms in addition to conclusions. There are two types of taps that can be installed at the output:

• Cutting off. Such taps allow you to completely stop the supply of the coolant from the general system to its individual contours.
• Adjusting. Using these cranes, the volume of water supplied to the contours can be reduced or increased.

There are valves on the collector for air release and water draining. Heat control meters are the most practical way to set up measuring apparatus. In this instance, everything required for this node to function effectively will be in one location.

Two combs enter the collector block; why is that? The first is in charge of providing coolant to the contours, and the second gathers water from the same contours that has already cooled (return). Every component required for efficient operation ought to be present on every comb.

Rules for placing a collector

In the case of a private residence with multiple stories, collectors are positioned on each floor. The rooms on the floor where they are installed will be without heat thanks to them. This contributes to fuel savings. These gadgets give each floor its own unique contour. The temperature of any rooms on a floor that are not occupied during the day may be momentarily lowered.

It is possible to modify the temperature regime in areas other than the entire floor, though. Sometimes it is sufficient to turn off just one radiator or one room. The operation of any other heating apparatus will not be impacted by this procedure. Additionally, because each radiator gets its coolant from a different pipe that approaches it, the heating of each radiator happens uniformly.

If a multi-story building’s heating plan is designed, you should locate your collector on each floor.This way, it will be in charge of managing the heating equipment on that specific floor.

Although the cost of such a heat supply system may appear high, its advantages become clear when it is in use. She is self-satisfied, so the installation-related costs won’t seem excessive to you anymore.

The advantage of using the collector becomes clear if any of the contours or a specific heating device need urgent repair. To block the crane at the distribution device’s exit, the master repair will merely cut off the device or the damaged area from the coolant flow.

Of course, there are benefits and drawbacks to using this heating system.

Of course, the satisfaction of having a warm home outweighs the cost savings on gasoline and potential repairs. But eventually, all of your initial outlays will be reimbursed.

• Significant expenses at the installation stage. Simple pipes are cheaper than high -strength steel products, which is necessary for the manufacture of a collector. This must be taken into account, and then add the cost of locking mechanisms used in the scheme. With an increase in the number of contours, expenses increase directly in proportion.
• The need for a circular pump. Such a pump is simply necessary for the work of the radial scheme, and this entails an increase in electricity costs.
• Additional expenses. If a separate branch will approach each of the heating devices, you will have to spend on additional pipes and pay for their installation.

The amount of work will increase, which will cause them to drag on for a while. However, this system will function more effectively and dependably when it is in use.

Rules for the installation of a comb

When designing the house, the location of the collector block must be decided. As previously stated, if the cottage is multi-story, then these nodes ought to be present on every floor. The best course of action is to get ready for those unique niches with higher floor levels.

If you are unable to locate a location for the node beforehand, you can install this block in any room where it won’t interfere with anyone, such as the boiler room, pantry, or hallway. If only there weren’t so much moisture here.

You can store the knot in a special cabinet—offered by their customers who are manufacturers of locking mechanisms—so that it is hidden from view. A cabinet like this has a metal case. It has a door, and holes for heating pipes are located in the side walls. Occasionally, the collector group is just positioned against the wall or in a niche, with the combs secured in place with the use of clamps.

This comb is situated in a location with specific equipment. It appears rather attractive, as you can see, and most significantly, getting to this node won’t be difficult.

After leaving this distribution device, pipes lead to the heating batteries through openings in the floor or walls. Heating devices should be equipped with an air or air crane if the pipes are located in the floor screed.

In addition to being a cost-effective do-it-yourself project, making your own heating comb can make your house warmer and more energy-efficient. You can create a heating comb that is customized to your own requirements and tastes by following the instructions provided in this guide.

Customizing your heating comb to match the design and dimensions of your home is one of its main benefits. You can modify the comb’s size and arrangement to achieve maximum heating efficiency throughout your living area, regardless of the size of your house—a large family home or a tiny apartment.

Making your own heating comb also gives you the freedom to select the materials that best fit your needs in terms of cost and environmental impact. You can choose components that match your priorities and values, ranging from sturdy metal options to basic PVC pipes.

Building a heating comb yourself also gives you the ability to add cutting-edge features and technologies that might not be found in manufactured goods. The possibilities for customization are endless, whether you want to experiment with alternative heat sources like solar panels or integrate smart thermostats for remote control.

In conclusion, creating your own heating comb has a lot of advantages, such as financial savings, the ability to customize, and the chance to be creative. You can design a heating solution that will improve your home’s comfort and energy efficiency for many years to come by using the tips in this article and your imagination.

Video on the topic

DIY heating collector

DIY heating collector