How to make a brick furnace for a bathhouse

For bathhouse heating, a brick furnace can be a dependable and effective choice. It not only adds coziness on chilly days but also a rustic charm to the overall atmosphere. Although building a brick furnace may seem difficult at first, it can be a rewarding do-it-yourself project with the correct supplies and advice.

Recognizing the advantages of a brick furnace is crucial before beginning construction. Brick furnaces have superior heat retention capabilities over metal or electric heaters. They don’t require continuous fuel consumption because, once heated, they can keep the bathhouse warm for longer periods of time.

Furthermore, the traditional and aesthetic appeal of brick furnaces adds to the bathhouse’s overall ambiance. The organic appearance of brick gives the area a sense of authenticity and elegance while also fostering a comfortable setting for rest and renewal.

Let’s now examine the detailed steps involved in constructing a brick furnace for your bathhouse. Every step of the process is essential to the furnace’s operation and safety, from obtaining the required supplies to laying the bricks and making sure there is enough ventilation.

Materials Needed

Process

Firebricks, Regular Bricks, Clay, Sand, Metal Grate, Cement, Fire-resistant Mortar

1. Plan the location and size of the furnace. 2. Lay down a foundation with regular bricks and cement. 3. Build the walls of the furnace with firebricks and regular bricks, leaving space for the firebox and chimney. 4. Mix clay, sand, and water to create a mortar. 5. Lay the bricks with the mortar, ensuring a tight seal. 6. Install a metal grate for the firebox. 7. Build the chimney with bricks, ensuring proper ventilation. 8. Let the mortar dry completely before using the furnace.

How they are so steaming

20 years ago, then the author’s good acquaintance, a seasoned Ukrainian master named Vasily and nicknamed among his own villagers Hahuu, built a Russian bath for himself. The author who had previously helped him in the device of the Abyssinian well invited him to strik. Melted, settled down. Vasya, scooping up some kind of dark brown fluid, put on a heater. Shiban, and – the author felt that he was flying to the moon. At first I attributed it to the ilter – before it did not steam about 5 years. But from the second portion "led" the same. Being morally prepared for the next salvo, he sensations determined: the euphoria is clearly unnatural origin. – Vasya, what are you pouring on a stove? – That hemp infusion. – Vaska, you"re at all? Not only is there a drug, because the motor can become from such a dose! – That yak there is drugs … And Maine Crypka’s heart … good eyes are more kind … But back to baths and bath stoves.

Burning Materials

The most important thing to consider when selecting a material is to select well-burned, premium brick. The brick ought to have uniform faces and be free of chips and cracks. He should break into multiple large pieces when he falls. The party does not fit if there are numerous small items.

When laying a bathhouse brick, it should have even faces and be free of chips and cracks.

Fireproof ceramic brick, also known as stove brick, is required for masonry. Everything should ideally be standard size, measuring 125 x 250 x 65 mm. However, the realities are such that there may be a substantial difference in dimensions between the parties of the same manufacturer as well as between manufacturers. As such, you need to choose their sizes carefully. Before adding bricks, many stovers first lay out each row without using a solution, leaving spaces between the seams. In order to prevent numerous errors.

Without a solution, you can first arrange a number of bricks and select the appropriate size.

Additionally, there is a unique stove brick with only three sides burned. There’s one spoon that hasn’t been fired. And the undigested, uneven side (from the furnace) is arranged. But even so, this is a rare occurrence. Most people use regular red ceramic.

Ballpoint brick Sh5 in white, light pink, or slightly yellowish color is used for masonry in the fuel zone. He can tolerate really hot weather. His measurements are a little off. However, this has no special significance because, in the majority of stoves, the chamot firebox arrangement is independent of the furnace body, negating the need for level adjustments. However, after achieving the necessary correspondence, you can file it if you suddenly need to align it.

Brick made of chamomile may differ. The Sh-5 is used to lay the bath furnace’s fuel zone.

Crucial! It is not advised to lay the furnace entirely with chamotum bricks. It’s not just about the cost either (it is decent rather than red).

The shag is, in fact, cooling down fast. Its job is to tolerate high temperatures, not to store heat.

The white chamotis refractory clay is used to prepare a strain brick solution. Specialty stores that sell building materials sell it. For masonry chamot, ready-made compounds can be used. However, you cannot use the entire furnace on this solution because the composition is sintering into a monolith at a temperature of 600–800 °C. The external layer just does not have these kinds of temperatures, so over time the solution just pulled and spilled, destroying the masonry.

The remaining furnace design makes use of a clay and quartz sand mixture. One part clay to five parts sand makes up the 1: 5 ratio of the mortar mixture. Sand can be used for either river origin or career. River is a little worse because he is round and has a sandstone grain, which is the worst kind of solution. If you want to stand for a long time, you should get career sand. To get rid of big particles in the mixture, it needs to be sifted through a sieve with cells that range from 2 to 2.5 mm.

The clay-sand solution is used to lay the furnace.

Clay from quarries that are at least two meters deep is suitable. Her decision needs to be carefully considered. You can assess the clay’s quality on your own. Soak 200 g, or a small amount, in water for one day. Using your hands, roll the bun and place it under a canopy to dry. Make sure it doesn’t crack after two days. To accomplish this, "drop" onto a stove or stone tiles from a height of 170 cm. The clay is appropriate for laying the furnace if the bun is broken up into multiple large pieces.

After selecting the appropriate clay, it needs to be prepared by being wiped through a sieve and soaked in water until pasty. larger cells at first, followed by smaller cells.

A wire with a diameter of two to three millimeters is also needed. It’s going to be used to secure the blower door and furnace.

Stove casting is thus fixed by means of wires inserted between the rows of masonry.

You will also need asbestos cords to install furnace casting because they are wrapped around the casting sections that come into direct contact with the brick. This lowers the temperature of the casting and keeps the masonry from cracking. When extending the chimney through ceilings and roof structures, exercise caution and make sure to cover the area as best you can with a heat-insulating material (you can use a clay solution). See the article for additional information on drawing a pipe through a roof.

The furnace’s case and its mechanisms are arranged differently. Sometimes, cardboard covered in basalt is placed between them to raise the temperature inside the chamota.

Materials and tools

To assemble a brick stove, you will require:

• red and refractory brick;
• clay;
• sand;
• blunt door;
• furnace door;
• grates;
• Feeding doors;
• asbestos -cement plate;
• Stones.

Standard brick is the material of choice for refractory construction.

Pouring the reinforced concrete foundation is essential because the brick furnace needs a sturdy base. In order to accomplish this, additionally get ready crushed stone and cement, along with a metal grid or reinforcing rods.

It is possible to fold a bath stove made of stone or brick using pieces weighing one to five kilograms. However, a granite or smooth boot is appropriate for these uses; flint should not be used as it will shatter into pieces when heated.

You will require traditional stove-stove or mason tools for your work:

• trowel;
• hammer;
• bubble or laser level;
• patching cord;
• plumb line;
• Construction square 40×40 cm
• Trombovka;
• plastering rule;
• containers for solution and bulk materials.

Brick can be trimmed with a grinder and a stone nearby. Using masonry more cautiously than with a hammer-brown will be possible as a result.

In the event that you decide on a metal stove, get ready:

• sheet steel 1 and 5 mm thick (it is better to use heat -resistant varieties);
• grate;
• Metal corner with a shelf of 40-50 mm.

The same metal can be used to make doors, or they can be bought and hung using loops and jaws. You can use a steel pipe with a minimum diameter of 100 mm as a chimney. Its minimum length of 4 meters will guarantee adequate traction. It should be noted that a stone furnace can also be powered by a metal chimney.

An exquisite cast-iron door will enhance the stove’s aesthetic appeal.

The following equipment is required to build a metal stove:

• welding transformer or inverter;
• angle grinder;
• Cleaning and cutting circle for metal;
• electric drill with a set of Sovers;
• roulette;
• scriber.

If the bath furnace’s design calls for a water heating tank, you should also consider a large-diameter pipe, thread, and taps, as these may be required to set up a hot water supply system.

Brick bath stove diagram

It was evident from the foregoing that the brick furnace had multiple main schemes:

• direct -flow;
• with chimney;
• cap.

All, however, provide numerous implementation options. Stated differently, the aforementioned schemes evince the characteristic unambiguously, but they do not exhaust the possibilities.

Bath furnace device: direct flow

Usually, a closed-running stove is included with the brick stove when the direct-flow structure is implemented. In this instance, passing furnace gases through a mass of stone laying quite effectively selects heat, so there’s no need to worry that they won’t have enough time to cool before departing.

By the way, the diagram illustrates the use of red fireproof and chamotis bricks, which are displayed in red and yellow, in the bathhouse design.

It’s important to note that there is still a gap between them at this point.

One could argue that the simplicity of the direct flow, including ease of maintenance, is one of its advantages. Naturally, you won’t get the exact amount and placement of stones the first time, but with practice, you will.

Designs of bath furnaces with smoke -turn

Although the goal of the smoke circulation is already known to you, the challenges it faces are not. Everything in the furnace is based on giving in. This system is not an anomaly either. Let’s start with When it comes to heat distribution and furnace durability, horizontal channels are superior to vertical ones because there is less of a temperature differential vertically and less likelihood of stove cracking. However, there is an additional issue with this location: soot growing up the walls. Vertical overgrowth grows more slowly, but cleaning is still necessary once a week to prevent a decline in thrust and efficiency. Vertical channels were therefore preferred.

Although there is a range of 1 to 12 revolutions, experience has shown that 4 is the ideal number of revolutions. Their cross-section shouldn’t be excessively large or small. In the first example, the soot hooks are more numerous; in the second, the heat fence is ineffective.

Speaking of which, The internal channels are specifically cleaned to remove any remaining solution residue in order to achieve the smoothest possible finish. The most even geometry when laying should be inside out. Reason: Soot can be detected by any roughness.

Bath furnace device: cap

There may not be any channels in the bath’s design. You have previously seen the apparatus of the most basic captacco stove. A bit more now.

Its basic idea is to construct something above the firebox that resembles an upside-down glass and to create a chimney exit close to the lower edge. Saji doesn’t suffer much from this design, which is quite tidy. Gases flow freely; the heated ones rise to the bottom of the glass and warm it, while the cooled ones strive downward and replace the heated portions with new ones drawn from the firebox.

Crucial! Even after a significant pause in work, such a stove is incredibly easy to melt.

She does, however, also have drawbacks:

• the upper part of the furnace warms up well, and for good heating, the steam room needs to be warm from below. This is treated two caps system.
• For the right firebox, you need a skill – in the overheated stove, the gases stop going under the cap, it is easier for them to immediately slip into the pipe. It is treated thin adjustment of the air entering the firebox.

Finally! Without expertise, all of a caps’ benefits can be negated.

With a tank or a coil

We discussed in an article how to set up a water tank in a bathhouse furnace device correctly so that the water didn’t boil, heat up too quickly, or produce a lot of steam that would increase humidity. It was also convenient to use the tank when filling it manually.

Here, we simply observe that, in our opinion, the stove’s internal coil is preferable to the nearby water tank. The water in the system will only run due to gravity and thermal convection if the pipe inclination angles are followed.

Any other kind of register can be added to the brick oven in addition to the coil. The stove, the firebox, or even the stove pipe could be the location.

Masonry of a bathhouse made of brick

Please take note that brick is laid using a cement and sand (one to three) mixture if the base beneath the stove is below floor level. Additionally, if the furnace is situated across from the floor level, a metal sheet is put in place during the furnace installation process from the side where the firebox will exit.

We take the appropriate amount of the clay mixture and level the solution at the masonry site with the aid of the cell. Place the previously marked brick in a bucket of water and place it on the solution, paying attention to the seam’s thickness, which shouldn’t be more than half a centimeter.

Sign a brick, tapping the cell on it, picking up the remnants of the mixture on the sides of the pantry suture.
Try to constantly take the same amount of solution. Apply the mixture to a new place under the brick, as well as to the face of the already laid brick. This line has a name – a poke, the pantry of the seam should not exceed 3 mm there.
The next brick is laid with a poke to a poke (they should be smeared with a clay mixture).
PLEASE: The thickness of the seam, the smaller – the better.
We check with a casual scheme. After three or four rows, wipe the masonry with a wet rag.

• With the help of the cell, we take the right amount of the clay mixture, leveled the solution at the masonry site.
• Dip the already marked brick in a bucket of water and set on the solution, following the thickness of the seam – it should not exceed half a centimeter.
• Sign a brick, tapping the cell on it, picking up the remnants of the mixture on the sides of the pantry suture.
• Try to constantly take the same amount of solution. Apply the mixture to a new place under the brick, as well as to the face of the already laid brick. This line has a name – a poke, the pantry of the seam should not exceed 3 mm there.
• We put the next brick with a poke to a poke (they should be smeared with a clay mixture).
• Pay attention: the thickness of the seam, the smaller – the better.
• We check with the scheme-cameline. After three or four rows, wipe the masonry with a wet rag.

Crucial! When installing a furnace, vertical seams should not line up; instead, they should overlap by at least 1/4 of the brick portion or precisely with a brick from the subsequent row in the middle. Furthermore, the damaged side of the brick does not face the furnace.

Sloped brick halves are found inside the masonry—neither the furnace nor the chimney are located inside.

We explore the key tactics to maintain a warm and energy-efficient home in our guide on heating and insulation. Our services include upgrading insulation and sealing drafts to guarantee your comfort while reducing energy costs. We also offer detailed instructions for building a brick furnace specifically designed for a bathhouse, for those looking to improve their sauna experience. You’ll discover how to build a strong and effective furnace that will improve your relaxation sessions with easy-to-follow instructions and helpful advice.

The first stage of design and foundation

As with any building project, a drawing project of the future furnace must be created before any construction can begin. The location of every brick must be indicated, starting with appearance, as this has a direct impact on service life. There are a tonne of conventional masonry variations, and they can be altered and modified after consulting with an expert.

The stone furnace project

Whichever masonry technique you select, the following fundamental components always apply:

• The furnace laid out of refractory bricks;
• A chimney that should be made of red ceramic or hollow (silicate) brick;
• Water tank;
• A as a ashes, which usually includes a cast -iron slab, a firebox, a sedimentary, where bath accessories and some other elements are stored.

It’s common knowledge that if a bathhouse has a monolithic foundation, a stove does not require its own foundation. However, we can observe regular temperature variations in our country’s northern latitudes, which is why even well-compacted soil can shift.

The location of the furnace should be decided upon during the design and construction of the bath, as it is more troublesome and expensive to demolish the supporting beams, cut lags, and rearrange the rafter system to make room for a chimney.

Given the significant temperature differential between the building’s base and the surrounding air, a minimum of 0.5 meters should be provided between them.

The foundation’s construction plan

Detailed instructions:

1. First you need to dig a pit, the depth of which depends on how loose soil under the bath, on average, the level of freezing of the soil (0.5 – 1.0 m) is enough. The width of the hole at the bottom must be made wider to the width of one brick than the width of the upper notch. This is necessary to increase the stability of the entire structure and prevent the formation of chips and cracks with the thermal expansion of the soil. The total size of the foundation should exceed the size of the furnace itself by one hundred. Also, keep in mind that for complete fire safety, it is necessary to leave the gap between the wall and the posterior wall of the furnace: in a wooden bath-10-15 cm, in brick or concrete-5-7 cm.
2. After pour the bottom with a layer of cleaned and sifted sand (10-15 cm) and pour water.
3. A broken stone or brick is laid on a layer of wet sand, so that its height of the layer reaches 15-20 cm.
4. A layer of crushed stone (10-15 cm) is poured on top of the stone and tightly compacted.
5. Then the formwork of wooden boards is installed, which are shot down by hand with a hammer. The formwork should be hard to ensure reliable furnace masonry. A metal frame from reinforced rods is also installed there.
6. At this stage, the foundation is poured into the container so that the distance from it to the floor surface is the height of two bricks (approximately 10-15 cm).

*You can make your own cement solution by combining crushed stone with wings of 30 to 50 mm in a 1x3x5 ratio, peeled quartz or river sand, and M200 cement (or higher).

1. After the solution has completely hardened, on average it takes from two days to a week, the formwork is dismantled and a layer of bundon is applied on the sides, and sand, crushed stone or gravel are poured into the stitches formed and compactly compacted.
2. A layer of waterproofing (roofing material) in two or three layers is laid on top of the finished foundation. Its size should be slightly larger than the area of the base itself. Extra, sticking pieces can be easily trimmed.

One of the most crucial phases of building a stone furnace for a bathhouse is laying the foundation.

A large irregularly shaped construction stone called a boot is used less frequently to build foundations. It is placed on top of a layer of cement (10–15 cm), and roofing material is used to isolate it.

Kamenka made of brick for the bath materials

It is evident that brick and solution will be the primary building materials for the stove. But, metal components (furniture) are also necessary and must be purchased in advance.

Specifically, it will be:

• The door is furnace;
• the door blew;
• Kamenka door;
• grate;
• sockets and stuffies (for Shans and heating pipe).

It is important to note that while Harding doors are available for purchase, they are typically installed on stoves that burn coal.

Given the known dimensions of the standard brick, the height of the door can be calculated as the multiple of one row’s height, or 7 cm, accounting for the seam. The standard furnace door is typically made in two rows, measuring 14 cm, and equal to four rows, measuring 28 cm. You will encounter needless difficulties if the blower is one and a half rows; use a 14-centimeter instead.

Going back to the doors. Cast iron continues to be the ideal material for them. The truth is that steel under continuous heat stress "leads," losing its shape and necessitating the replacement of failed details. In this sense, cast iron has more racks.

However, if you select a high-end door based on structural characteristics, we suggest that you look for models that have an extra metal screen welded from the inside of the door; this screen lowers the temperature outside the door. The furnace’s door may be glazed, which is currently popular (see

). In this instance, however, keep in mind that you are not doomed to a never-ending battle with soot if you do not have a specific system in place for your glass to clean itself. This concludes the review.

The furnace door can be glazed, which is a stylish option these days (see. ). However, keep in mind that, in this instance, being without a self-cleaning glass system condemns you to a never-ending battle with soot, which ends the review.

Regarding water tanks, it is not advised to use materials like black and cink steel when manufacturing them independently. Alternatively, decide between stainless steel and puddled copper.

And what about brick say the stovers? They claim that there is currently no substitute for the red, continuous, manufactured process of wet pressing. Of course, we’re talking about heterogeneous firing with the proper geometry and no color change. In addition, it sounds loudly, much like a metal object would when struck. Pallor is the expression of infinite, and furnence is only visible at the break, where areas will be blue-black in hue.

There are times when it’s written that frost resistance brick is only necessary for chimney pipes. Not at all. Regarding the pipe and furnace Material with at least thirty cycles must be used; the more, the better.

Regarding the pipe, it is preferable to cover it with clinker brick as soon as it passes through the roof, but it must also have a choice. High frost resistance—70 cycles or more—is the cause.

Take note! Because the clinker has poor solution adhesion and does not take water, it is not appropriate for laying the stove itself.

Shamotic brick, which is also referred to as a furnace liner, is exclusively utilized as the building fuel nucleus. In the instance we outlined, the lining was designed for the heater.

Crucial! The chamotum is placed on a mixture of refractory clay with a ball-shaped crumb, and red brick is placed in a standard solution of clay and sand. A solution without clay, cement-sand, or cement, sand, and lime is the pipe above the roof level. The amount of sand needed for each part of clay can range from one to six parts, depending on the clay’s fat content. The more crumbly the dried clay is, the less sand is required.

Instead of crumbling, fatty clay cracks. If the typical solution crumbles, it does so only on the periphery. It does not break. To determine the proportion, samples with various sand fractions are usually prepared and dried.

The amount of sand required for one part of clay varies depending on the clay’s fat content; the more crumbly the clay becomes after drying, the less sand is required. Instead of crumbling, fatty clay cracks. Ordinary solution does not fracture, and if it does, it does so only on the periphery. To determine the proportion, samples with various sand fractions are usually prepared and dried.

Counseling! Take mountain sand or career if you can; he’s the best.

Brick counting is as easy as following the masonry drawings, where one row’s height with a solution is 7 cm. In pipe lining, the quantity of bricks in a row is multiplied by the height of the rows plus an additional 50 pieces for each jelly (fire extension) and 70 pieces for the heads and prison. The only thing left to do is figure out how many cubic meters, which is easy to do because we start with the knowledge that one cube contains 420 bricks. It makes sense to add an extra 10% to the final amount when purchasing.

how to make a bathhouse for a bath with your own hands photos and drawings

The bathhouse was just seen as an essential feature to maintain youth, beauty, and health since ancient times. She still has a great domestic value in the villages and throughout the nation. The bath can always be kept warm even if there isn’t any hot water in the house. In addition, guests can always spend a few nights in the bath if there isn’t much room. How can one function in it without a stove? But no way!

With their own hands, masters attempted to create furnaces for baths. Additionally, the model that was bought in the store comes to mind on its own. This is done to ensure that it satisfies every requirement of the location where it will be established. For that reason, you should learn how to build a bathhouse by hand.

1 Comparison of metal and brick bath furnaces

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Stupidly deny the benefits of metal bath furnaces. They are less expensive than their brick counterparts by several times, simpler to install, and provide faster room heating; however, they fall short in a number of areas:

1. 1. Durability. Average service life of the factory bathhouse – 10 years. Properly folded brick stack has been serving for decades;
2. 2. Comfort. When the metal is heated, infrared radiation appears, burning oxygen in the steam room and burning skin. Soft comfortable heat spreads from the stone furnace;
3. 3. Temperature maintaining – a metal stove, quickly heated, also cools quickly. A brick furnace will cool for a day;
4. 4. Fire safety. To ensure safe operation of metal products will have to use additional protective equipment.

Metal stoves are less reliable and safer than brick stoves.

As you can see, a brick bathhouse makes sense in at least four of the parameters. However, there are drawbacks:

1. 1. Price. The brick for the furnace costs a lot, and after all, the costs of delivery, the cost of supplies are also taken into account. It"s good if you are able to fold it with your own hands. Otherwise, you will have to pay the stove, and its services are expensive;
2. 2. The complexity of the construction. The construction of a brick stack is a long -term difficult process;
3. 3. Heating speed. To heat the bathhouse with a brick stove, you need several hours. While a properly selected metal stove will cope with the task within an hour.

Due to these flaws, the brick stanks were forced to squeeze and, in some cases, to concede to metal rivals. On closer inspection, though, they don’t seem to be deadly. For instance, building a stove requires expensive bricks, but the bath will not be finished in a year.

The fact that a bathhouse with a stone stove heats slowly is undeniable. However, the ritual of visiting the bathhouse—which includes a few trips to the steam room, steaming brooms, and a tea party in the restroom—does not put up with the commotion. The won minutes are invisible in this context. Stated differently, a bathhouse is a place of leisure, but rushing while on vacation is not customary.

But a modern person is accustomed to living fast. He also doesn’t have time to waste setting up a bathhouse after working in a summer cottage. We can conclude that metal stoves are suitable in situations where speed is the deciding factor, but building a stone furnace is preferable for a fully comfortable bath.

The second stage masonry of the body of the furnace

Masonry in a brick furnace is an extremely labor-intensive and sophisticated process that calls for specific abilities and expertise that come with experience. Therefore, plans known as "guesses" were developed for novice builders; each brick’s location is shown step-by-step in the pictures.

In order to level the foundation and bring it to the bath floor, all schemes start with the zero row. To prevent errors later on, it is also advised to build a stove in a dry state—that is, without a solution—first.

There are many different types of masonry, so only the most common ones will be covered here. In almost every case, there will be steps involved, along with some guidelines and advice.

For the furnace to last for a long time, the geometry needs to be correct.

Each brick needs to be soaked in water before you start building the stove in order to release any trapped air bubbles and keep the mixture from drying out. Shamot brick can only be submerged in the liquid for a brief period of time—a few seconds will be sufficient to dissolve the dust layer. The corner is where the masonry starts. First row should be laid out without using the mixture on a dry foundation.

Detailed instructions:

1. Using a trowel, dial the required amount of sand-clay composition and cover it with the masonry and moving.
2. Set the brick on top, tapping with a rubber hammer or the same trowel, tamp. A layer of solution between rows should not exceed five millimeters, and between elements of one row no more than 2 mm. The smaller the seam, the stronger and more stable the design itself will be. In addition to the edge of the brick, which it is attached, its pumpkin part is also lubricated.

Multiple choices for the placement

*You can use the trick by first laying out the entire row without a solution to ensure that everything goes as planned and nothing unnecessary sticks out, then numbering each brick before continuing with the final laying.

1. In order to further prevent the appearance of large gaps, it is necessary to prepare halves and quarters. Remember that the seams of one row should not coincide with the seams of the previous one, that is, each brick move by 40-50%. Cutting a brick if necessary is better using a grinder with diamond spraying.
2. Immediately after the first row, the blower door is installed. Since it is not possible to fix metal elements, use a hard galvanized wire with a thickness of about 3 mm. It is screwed in the corners of the door. For a more reliable fastening in bricks, small holes are pre -cut, where the wire is inserted, it can also be burned to increase elasticity. In places of touching the door with the stove, use isolation asbestos.

Galvanized wire is used for the ashin and fireboard door fastening.

*To further draw a corrugated metal hose through the ash-free door, you can leave a small gap above it. There is no need to install a heating tank because the water will get heated as it passes through it. This option is particularly helpful for very small baths.

1. Each row is checked by the level so that the furnace does not build a slope.
2. Subsequent ranks are laid down similarly.
3. To build a more reliable and durable furnace, it is necessary to reinforce the aisles of brick every four rows, the fireboxes – each row. The thickness of the metal grill on average reaches three millimeters.
4. A cast -iron plate is mounted on top of the furnace compartment, on which special bath stones are put in the future. Their weight is about fifty kilograms, while in the sauna the total weight does not exceed thirty.
5. The door of the furnace is attached just like as a ashrian, but with one only difference – since the size of the door is different and the fastening is necessary and durable, so they use more than one wire on every corner, but three or more, twisting into one whole.
6. Every four rows are wiped with a damp cloth.
7. We check with the masonry scheme. If everything is true, we are transgressing to the equipment of the chimney.

Kinds

There are two types of brick furnaces for bathrooms:

• constant action;
• periodic action.

The first version will have the stones either in the box or on the metal flooring. In this instance, heat is transferred from one material to another rather than by fire, heating the stone backfill. In a different scenario, though, the fire will go straight through the stones.

When selecting a furnace for a bathhouse, many people are not entirely aware of the distinctions between Finnish and Russian baths.

A temperature of sixty degrees with fifty percent moisture content is ideal for a Russian bathhouse. A brick stove that is more appropriate with a closed heifer. The Finnish bath has a moisture content of 5–15% and a temperature of 90 degrees. The temperature will decrease as humidity rises, and there will be significantly less steam as a result.

It is crucial to realize that the bath cannot be used with the heating-welding brick furnace. A bathroom’s brick design differs greatly from that of a domestic furnace.

The primary function of a domestic stove is to provide and sustain heat within the building.

The primary goal of a bathhouse is to generate steam and maintain the appropriate room temperature by optimizing heating and stone backfill.

The selection of the fuel required for a furnace also influences the classification of furnaces into species. The unit can run on gas or wood and is powered by the mains.

Every unit has benefits as well as drawbacks. Wood stoves are regarded as dependable and reasonably priced. The device, which solely runs on wood, is better suited for areas where gas or electricity outages are possible. It should be anticipated that installing a wood-only structure in the bathhouse will make it challenging to swiftly heat the steam room. You should also take care of maintaining the required temperature and clearing the stove of ash. A brick stove accepts a variety of fuels.

Without a comprehensive plan, it is not advisable to construct even the most basic stove for a Russian bath. You should create a thorough plan, make drawings, and list the required dimensions before you begin any work.

It is crucial to realize when examining all aspects that a bathhouse cannot be set up for a bath unless fire safety regulations are followed.

In steam rooms, a brick product ought to be constructed next to the wall across from the shelves. It should be kept in mind when designing the project that there should be at least 40 centimeters between the unit’s warming portion and the burning area. The distance can be shortened to 20 cm if special protection is selected, such as cardboard covered with asbestos.

It is possible to weld and independently produce a high-quality product if you intend to bake using a water tank. At the same time, installation is more important than the product’s manufacture. You should choose the loty of the water heater tank before you begin work. There are two possible designs: closed and open. It is much more convenient to fill and take care of an open container, according to experts. To prevent water from freezing in the tank during the winter, do not leave it there.

Nobody can deny that a bathhouse is more than just a place to wash your body; it’s also a place to unwind, treat illnesses, and generally improve your attitude on life.

The process’s ability to be completed successfully depends on the steam room’s appropriately folded furnace. A furnace with a firebox in the dressing room is one of the most widely used models.

You can design a bathroom floor with heating for optimal comfort. The owners of paired have been familiar with this design for a long time. Additionally, because the coolant is hot water heated by a firebox, using it does not require connecting to the mains. Utilizing a metallized substrate ensures that thermal energy is retained.

Kinds

Bath furnaces come in four main variations:

• "In the white";
• "In black";
• "In a gray";
• With a stove.

Stoves that are healed "in black" do not have a chimney, and for many decades have been used in villages throughout the country. All children and smoke go through the steam room itself – naturally through the cracks and gaps of the roof. Of course, so the best pairs and aroma arises in them, and it becomes very pleasant to wash, but at the same time you have to wait until all the firewood burn out. When choosing furnaces “in black”, it is recommended to process the internal walls of the bath with a special solution that can prevent the occurrence of soot residues. Baths “in black” have a very high efficiency, and therefore when using them you can save on fuel.

Further, the complexity is followed by stoves that are healed "in a gray". They have a chimney, and therefore the bath warms up much faster. However, you still have to expect until all the fuel burns out, since the soot is deposited on the stones. The walls are not dirty with soot, but when the liquid is supplied to the stones, a small amount of soot microparticles appears along with the steam from the furnace. This design can be direct -flowing and with channels. In the first case, the stones placed above the firebox are on fire, and the gases reach the air through the pipe, and in the second – through two valves.

The “white” furnaces warm up the room for up to 12 hours, but do not pollute the stones, therefore they are considered the most environmentally friendly. The process occurs as follows: an overlapping metal plate is heated from the fuel, and from it – stones that will store heat for several hours. This heating method appears the most costly – a large number of firewood and other materials are consumed. Previously, the box in which the stones was folded was made from ordinary black iron, and now from heat -resistant stainless steel. Traditionally, there are two separate spaces in the battles in the white baths: a dressing room and a steamer directly. To warm both rooms, on one side the furnace goes into the dressing room.

The fourth example features a stove, stones, and a movable water tank that provides heat from two cast-iron plates. There are two of them: one above the firebox and the other over the chimney. A brick screen fence should be erected on three sides of the slab to provide hot water. These stoves are typically constructed on their own.

Stoves are classified based on the type of fuel they use:

• wood;
• melted with stone coal;
• natural gas;
• diesel fuel;
• wood brief briquettes;
• electricity.

They are separated into furnaces based on the kind of design:

• with an open heater (characteristic of the Finnish sauna);
• with a closed stump;
• Combined.

In the first example, kamenka is referred to as running, and the furnace is referred to as periodic action. In the second scenario, the stove operates continuously while the heater operates directly.

Large families typically select periodic stoves when there are lots of people washing, but the steering process takes little time. Their walls are thick, storing heat for an extended period of time and enabling the bath to function as needed. Before entering the chimney pipe, smoke travels through the stones. Compared to stoves with continuous action, such a stove has a substantially larger volume of stone backfill.

Constant action bath stoves are characterized by thin walls and a small volume of stones housed in a separate metal box above the firebox. Their primary benefit is that they can use a steam room to aid in the melting process. Additionally safer are stoves with a closed heater. The heater and furnace both use the same wall opening to carry out their internal heating. The steam room’s air maintains a constant, ideal temperature because the stones retained heat for a much longer period of time. Air in such a bath will warm up over the course of four to five hours.

A stone stove-stone for a bathhouse is one example of a variation that merits attention on its own. Although this design is attractive, it is not very efficient. You can enjoy your vacation in a singed room and protect yourself from flame tongues by installing a valve made of refractory glass. For this reason, fireplaces are frequently added to "pre-Banniks." By using modern technologies, you can create mini-kamenki. The bathhouse gets heated quickly thanks to this design, and the heat continues even after the fuel is completely burned. It often has two bricks for both length and width.

Choosing a stove for a steamer of a variety of structures

You need to be aware of additional bath stove features in order to make the best decision. We can now discuss the categorization based on the following indicators:

• heating speed;
• Features of the layout;
• the method of heating the stove;
• used fuel.

Depending on the temperature of the outer walls, all bath stoves can be divided into “hot” and “cold”. In the first, the surface temperature reaches more than 100 ° C, which allows you to very quickly heat the room of a large area. Such a stove is indispensable if the steam room is used episodically, and constant heating is not provided for in it. But from the advantages of such structures, significant disadvantages also follow. Firstly, touching the red-hot walls is fraught with the receipt of burns. Secondly, it is difficult to control with rapid heating, so the likelihood of accidental air overheating increases, and, as a result, obtaining a thermal blow.

Even with the strongest flame, the temperature inside "cold" stoves never rises above 50–60 degrees, even though they take longer to heat. You just cannot get on her. In addition, you can keep the desired air temperature for several hours thanks to "cold" furnaces’ capacity to retain heat. Because ofthis, the functioning ofstructures meant for the frequent use of

It’s also crucial that you can adjust the heating gradually to get the ideal humidity and temperature in the space.

As for the layout, there are options for placing the furnace both in the steam room itself and in the dressing room. The first design is certainly cheaper and easier to install. Nevertheless, it has several drawbacks. So, when opening the door to add fuel, smoke can go to the room. In addition, due to high humidity, it will not be possible to store firewood next to the stove, and each time running after them in another room will not be quite convenient. The safety of the structure will also suffer, since the risk of touching a red -hot door increases in a tight steam room. Therefore, it is better to mount the removable furnace part, which can be placed in the adjacent room, and in the steam room leave only the stove. Of course, this option has the right to life only if the bathhouse has a sufficient area.

The most common oven design is the one with an open heel.

When it comes to heating techniques, stoves that keep the stones away from the flames are particularly well-liked these days. They are set up in a unique garden that is welded to the heating appliance’s casing, or in metal baskets that are hung from the walls or stove pipes. The stones in this instance reach a temperature of 400 degrees. This method’s benefit is that it uses water procedures to simultaneously heat the stove and change the air’s humidity.

Periodic action stoves are configured entirely differently. The stones within come into contact with combustion products, causing them to heat up to temperatures of up to 1000°C. Only after the firewood has been completely burned and the carbon monoxide has been expelled from the furnace’s interior can you move on to healing measures in this situation. Additionally, the stove is closed with a casing or a leaning door to prevent it from cooling down too quickly.

Bath stoves frequently have a water tank as well. It is primarily mounted at the rear of the building, with the chimney going through the capacity. Water in adequate quantities can be obtained in a wooden font for both full-fledged water procedures and rinsing, owing to the high temperature and lower heating of the outgoing gases.

With an understanding of every aspect of bath furnaces, selecting the ideal design is simple. One simply needs to consider the features of a particular construction, the owner’s personal preferences, and the operational requirements.

Do -it -yourself stove technology for a bathhouse for a bathhouse

The design of a brick furnace doesn’t really matter because they are always constructed in a specific order: the foundation, the furnace, and the chimney installation. Filling the foundation is always the first step.

Fill the foundation is always the first step.

The best course of action will be to complete this work in advance and build the bath’s foundation. Filling the foundation is done in the sequence listed below:

1. Initially, you should decide on the place, where the bath oven will be located. When choosing a site for the foundation, it must be borne in mind that the foundation of the furnace should not fit to the base of the bath, but be located at a distance from it. The size of the site must correspond to the dimensions of the base specified in the selected project. The foundation foundation is fed to a depth of about 60 cm. To increase the stability of the future foundation to the movements of the soil, 10-15 cm of its lower part should be slightly expanded. Then the pile of the pit is filled with sand and tamped with a 5-10 cm.
2. The next part of this stage will be the backfill of crushed stone. Its layer should be filled to a depth of about 10 cm and tamped. Then the formwork is mounted from the boards, and then the reinforcing mesh made of steel rods is mounted. The grid should have cells in size of 15 x 15 cm, obtained by fastening the rods with special locks, or knitting wire. The net must be fixed so that from it to the walls and bottom of the pit there is a gap of about 5 cm. After the installation of the reinforcing mesh, a concrete solution consisting of cement M400, sand, crushed stone and water is prepared. The pit is carefully filled with the solution so that its surface is below the soil of the site by 150 mm. In about a week, concrete will gain the necessary strength.
3. There is a queue dismantling the formwork and backfill of the emerging voids with small gravel, Carefully compacted. Completes the work on the creation of the creation of two waterproofing layers made of roofing material, filled with molten bitumen. In the formed gap between the concrete base and the surface of the site, the starting row of bricks is laid.

Typically, the foundation’s construction is It doesn’t lead to problems. even those without any particular expertise in construction. Masonry for a bathhouse that you do yourself is far more difficult. Below is a drawing of one of the brick bathhouse versions.

In addition to skillfully arranging the stoves in a specific configuration, the stove masters are also capable of refining the design. When bath owners choose to tackle this project on their own, they typically utilize pre-made plans that show the location of each brick as well as the number of bricks in each row of the future furnace.

The only thing left to do is adhere to the current plan exactly, carefully mounting grates, doors, and valves in their designated locations and tightening them.

Take note! The bath’s wooden wall shouldn’t fit too close to the furnace to guarantee fire safety. At least 25 centimeters should separate you and your non-combustible material.

.. Numerous experts advise laying each row’s bricks initially without figuring out how to precisely fit them in terms of size.

Use a solution when performing masonry only after such fitting. Before laying, the brick needs to be lowered into the water for a short while so that it can grasp the surface more firmly.

Numerous experts advise In order to precisely fit each row’s bricks in terms of size, they are first laid without a solution. Use a solution when performing masonry only after such fitting. Before laying, the brick needs to be lowered into the water for a short while so that it can grasp the surface more firmly.

It’s crucial to keep an eye on the seam’s thickness and verticality when laying. The thickness of the masonry seam should be 0.5 cm horizontally and 0.3 cm vertically. During the masonry process, all of the openings’ upper portions need to be strengthened. After completing the laying of every row shown in the plan, including the chimney, we can presume that the first hand experience building a brick furnace for a bathhouse on our own was gained.

Verify that the furnace is of the highest caliber; this will only be feasible in two weeks. The stove now has a chimney, and it will take a long time for the solution to dry up. It should be scored multiple times in sparing mode before you use the stove.

From brick

Utilizing a water tank and brick

A solid and simple “cold” furnace for the bathhouse looks structurally like this: a furnace chamber is made of refractory bricks, a ash is located under it. Coblylcers on a steel or cast -iron grill are laid out on top of the heat to preserve the heat. Their mass is calculated from the ratio: 1 m3 of steam rooms required 20-30 kg of stones. This proportion is true for continuously working devices. If heating occurs periodically, that is, after warming up the room to the desired level, it is extinguished, then the amount must be increased by 2 times. Sometimes, for better heat retention, cast -iron flaps are added in a ratio of 20% by 80% of the stone.

Apart from brick, the walls themselves can also be constructed from regular or bottle stone. Take granite or something nude occasionally for construction. Each component weighs between one and five kilograms. Try not to construct anything out of silicon; when heated, it simply explodes.

Only sand and clay can be used as a binder. The typical cement solution will not endure a year in high temperatures.

Clay-based solution

To make clay the consistency of thick sour cream, it is soaked in water for several days and then combined with sifted sand. Sand is better than rivers; mountains are better. Its facets offer the best adhesion; they are uneven and superfluous.

Since the burned brick stove with stones weighs a lot, a foundation must be built underneath it. There is a sufficient 70 cm-deep pit for this.

Crushed stone and sand measuring 15 cm are added to the bottom. After that, a layer of concrete—ideally reinforced—is added to everything. Rolls of roofing material are placed on top of the frozen foundation to provide waterproofing.

A brick stove with a strong base

We observe a few things:

1. The angle of the bathhouse where the furnace is installed should be thermal insulated and strengthened. In addition to the danger of fire, it will observe a large temperature difference, which can lead to the appearance of cracks in the walls.
2. The first row is laid on a roofing substrate without a solution, dry.
3. The remaining blocks are wetted with water during operation, each new row is laid with a dressing (with a displacement relative to the previous one).
4. It is necessary to ensure that the sides of the bricks, facing the furnace chamber, are intact, without chips and cracks. The wall here should be as smooth as possible, since any pothole provokes the destruction of the structure. At the same time, it is impossible to coat the inner surfaces with clay – drying out, it will begin to exfoliate and clog ,
5. After the masonry work is completed, the stove must be dried. To do this, either it is left for 15 days with a good air flow, or is healed several times in sparing mode.

Video: masonry of a mason 3 × 3.5 bricks

Masonry schemes

If you have never built a stove before, it is advised that you locate the completed order and utilize it instead of accepting the drawing to be made by hand. There are currently many different masonry schemes in use; professionals choose the most complex ones, while amateurs choose the simpler ones. The oven functions well in both situations, and the outcome is satisfactory. Apart from the conventional masonry techniques, Kuznetsov’s large bath furnaces hold special significance. This layout requires a lot less room.

The stove is initially set up in a dry position to create a guide plan. It’s important to keep in mind that standard schemes aren’t appropriate for every bathroom; instead, they must be specifically designed for each bath, incorporating any required modifications to the existing. When everyone has a firm grasp on how each row is executed, it’s time to begin the main assembly.

The furnace’s base, or the so-called "zero row," is where the order always starts. At this point, laying continues continuously, but the chimney shaft is cleaned and the side of the side is typically left on the side to provide extra traction. The next step involves dressing, which entails shifting the row by 30 to 50% in order to stabilize the design. If you require brick halves or quarters, a grinder fitted with a diamond disk is advised. It is important to keep in mind that these components can only be found inside the building and not in chimneys, where the mines are always constructed from whole bricks.

The ash door installation usually starts at the third level, when the damper first appears. There is a door sampling door indicated by the appearance of the fourth row. Typically, a jumper is used to split the shaft into two sections at the sixth stage, one of which will become a plate mine. One main mine and one mine will be placed on the twelfth row. The main structure is typically finished by stages twenty-fifth and twenty-sixth, at which point the chimney’s masonry begins.

Constructing a brick furnace for a bathhouse is a worthwhile endeavor with many advantages. It not only adds a rustic charm to the bathhouse ambiance, but it also provides efficient heating. This guide will walk you through the process of making a long-lasting and efficient heating solution for your area.

A brick furnace’s longevity is one of its main benefits. When properly maintained, a well-built brick furnace can last for decades, unlike metal stoves, which can deteriorate over time. Long-term savings are achieved due to its longevity, as you won’t need to worry about regular replacements or repairs.

An additional advantage of a brick furnace is its superior capacity to retain heat. The bricks absorb and radiate heat gradually and evenly after the furnace is heated, keeping the bathhouse at a comfortable and steady temperature. This not only makes bathing more enjoyable but also contributes to energy conservation by lowering the requirement for continuous fuel use.

Building a brick furnace also enables customization to meet your unique requirements and tastes. For best heating efficiency, you can plan the furnace’s size and arrangement based on the bathhouse’s measurements. To make the most use of available space, you can also choose to add elements like built-in benches or storage sections.

To sum up, building a brick furnace for your bathroom is a valuable project that provides dependability, effectiveness, and customization possibilities. You can take advantage of the warmth and atmosphere of a traditional brick furnace for many years to come with careful planning and close attention to detail.

Video on the topic

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Brick for a 4×4 -brick bath for white with a water tank. Part 2