How to make a boiler with your own hands

Are you sick and weary of paying hefty heating costs in the winter? Are you trying to maintain a warm and inviting home without going over budget? Constructing your own boiler could be a more feasible solution than you might think. Making your own boiler may be a rewarding do-it-yourself project that not only saves you money but also gives you more control over the heating system in your house, even though it may seem like a difficult undertaking. We’ll go over the fundamentals of making a boiler by hand in this guide, complete with helpful hints and detailed instructions.

It’s critical to comprehend boilers and their functions before beginning any building projects. In a nutshell, a boiler is an apparatus that generates steam or hot water for heating by heating water or other fluids. Homes with central heating and hot water are frequently equipped with boilers. The fundamental ideas behind them are the same regardless of their size or type: heat is produced by burning fuel and then transferred to the water or other fluid running through the system.

There are a few things to think about when building your own boiler, such as the kind of fuel you plan to use, the boiler’s design, and safety measures. Due to the ease of availability and low cost of wood, many do-it-yourselfers choose wood-fired boilers. In addition, compared to fossil fuel alternatives, wood-fired boilers may be more environmentally friendly. To stop dangerous pollutants from escaping, it is essential to make sure that ventilation and combustion are done correctly.

Your homemade boiler’s design is something else to think about. Although prefabricated boiler kits are readily available, creating your own enables customization to meet your unique requirements and spatial limitations. To guarantee effective operation and safety, meticulous planning and attention to detail are crucial, regardless of whether you go with a more contemporary water-tube configuration or a more conventional fire-tube design.

When building and using a boiler, especially one that you built yourself, safety should always come first. Make sure you are knowledgeable about the building codes and regulations that apply to your area as well as the suggested safety precautions when operating a boiler. To reduce the chance of accidents and provide peace of mind, safety features like emergency shutoff switches, temperature gauges, and pressure relief valves can be installed.

The principle of operation of the shaft type boiler. Design features

The heating boilers with long combustion units of the shaft type are distinguished by their lack of concern for fuel quality.

Given that other solid fuel heating devices have more erratic fuel selection, the condition is not insignificant. In terms of technology, boiler furnace logs with humidity levels above 40–45% are permitted to be used.

In addition to digesting raw wood, a mine solid fuel boiler can provide the required heat for an extended period of time. Generally, 12 hours or longer elapse between the subsequent fuel loadings. These indicators are even higher in certain models.

The unique features of the unit’s design gave rise to its moniker. This appliance’s firebox, also known as the combustion chamber, is shaped like a shaft. The fuel chamber and the heat exchange chamber are the two shafts in these kinds of units. Instead of being loaded horizontally, the fuel is loaded into the fuel chamber layer by layer like it would be in a well. These devices are also known as bottom combustion units because the combustion process occurs in these units from the bottom up. Let’s examine how it appears in real life:

• a hearth is created on the grate just before the stove is laid;
• the main charge is laid already on the burning fuel, layer by layer, from above.
• constant flow of air mass does not allow the upper layers of fuel to ignite;
• under its own weight, the firewood goes down, taking the place of the burned logs;
• firewood located in the upper part has time to dry out during the boiler operation;
• at the very bottom of the fuel shaft, in the absence of oxygen, pyrolysis, the process of wood (pyrolysis) gas formation, takes place.

The furnace chamber, also known as the heat exchange shaft, is the second furnace and is where the primary combustion process occurs. The primary source of heat energy, the second furnace, receives pyrolysis gas through its mouth.

For informational purposes: Pyrolysis is the process of using wood fuel in an exothermic reaction to produce a gaseous material. When something smolders without oxygen, a volatile gaseous substance is released. When this substance comes into contact with oxygen, it releases a lot of heat.

There are various designs possible for the furnace shaft. Certain heating appliance models feature a flat heat exchanger on a heat exchange shaft. A hot-water or hot-tube heat exchanger that is installed directly in the furnace shaft is frequently included in the design of the heating unit. Heat exchangers arranged and typed in this way are the most efficient available. Looking at the picture – section of the device will give you a good idea of how the shaft boiler is set up.

As was already mentioned, this kind of heating boiler equipment works flawlessly with inferior fuel. This kind of heating appliance operates on the principle that the firewood has time to reach the required moisture levels. Condensate, which is typical of classical type units and is released in large quantities of wet wood, does not pose a problem for mine devices. These units have a high performance efficiency of 75–80%.

Mine boiler with your own hands

There are numerous drawings available for building a mine boiler by hand. Create a system that is not as good as what the manufacturer can provide, but it is feasible to create a good analog for the home.

Boiler parts that are meant to be assembled by hand:

• Furnace. It occupies half of the entire system. The height of the furnace should be 2 times more than its width.
• Fuel loading shaft, located on the side or top.
• Ash chamber, located under the shaft.
• Spike grate, divides the ash and shaft part.
• Chambers for heat exchange.
• Chimney.
• dampers.
• Doors.

It is required to determine the necessary quantity of each material and element for the heating system before making any purchases.

Principle of boiler operation

There are two ways to generate heat in the Kholmov boiler:

• direct fuel combustion;
• Solid fuel gas afterburning.

Because of the way the pyrolysis boiler is made, there is not enough air volume provided by the incoming air flow for efficient combustion. As a result, part of the fuel just smolders and some just burns. Smoldering emits large amounts of smoke that are heavily concentrated in tar and soot. As smoke passes over hot coals, it also picks up additional substances that combine to produce even more active gases.

Kholmov shaft type boiler for pyrolysis

Compared to standard units on coal or wood, a shaft-type boiler on wood can operate steadily for up to 12 hours on a single charge. The Kholmov boiler is referred to as a long-burning boiler simply for this reason. Compared to the chamber of traditional solid fuel boilers, the device’s furnace is significantly larger and can hold a lot more fuel.

180 liters of fuel can be stored in the furnace chamber of the 15 kW power unit. Only the lower 20 cm of the fuel bed burns during combustion. Fuel from above that has been designated as "reserve" waits for fuel from below to burn completely before gradually replacing it. At a height of 30 cm above the smoldering coals, smoke gases begin to accumulate. The bigger amount of incoming air flows beneath the grates and enters a second afterburning furnace for pyrolysis. The smoke gases above the combustion layer are drawn to this air. Pyrogases become of higher quality as the smoke passes through the coals and becomes enriched.

The second and first shafts are separated by a vertical partition wall. There is only a small gap at the bottom of this wall. Through this opening, the fire is sucked from one chamber to the other by means of a draught. Here at the bottom there is a complete afterburning of wood gases, and at the top there is a convection heat exchanger. The highest heating is achieved in the lower part of the second chamber (temperature up to +800 °C). Most of the heat energy in this area is transferred to the water jacket of the heating unit as radiation radiation. The remaining heat from the combustion gases is collected by a convection-type water-tube heat exchanger.

Mine boilers can operate with wood, coal, sawdust, chips, briquettes, and pellets. It is preferable to use less coal fuel in order to improve the heating unit’s efficiency. The truth is that coal is a byproduct of organic decomposition, and when it burns, pyrogases are rare.

Popov’s gas-generator boiler is covered in more detail at.

Increased duration of solid fuel combustion

Installing a boiler that eliminates the need to toss wood every six hours is what every homeowner wants to do. For up to a week, some heat generators maintain their heat. However, since the plant’s efficiency drops, extending the duration isn’t always a good idea. The following are the causes:

1. The efficiency of wood-fired boilers is about 70%. If the process is replaced by smoldering, thus increasing the duration of the process, the efficiency drops to about 40%, about the same as a simple stove.
2. Firewood that smolders gives out little heat. Therefore, the house will take much longer to heat up.
3. It will not be possible to burn raw wood, if the boiler uses only the smoldering mode.

The following types of boilers can run for eight hours or longer on a single supply of wood:

• Classic, where the air supply is forced;
• top combustion. Such installations can be made independently, if there is a suitable tool and experience with welding.

Boilers operating on sawdust can be found in some schemes, but they are very large and difficult to construct independently.

Peculiarities of operation of shaft boilers

The fuel is burned because air enters through the blower door beneath the grate and goes straight into the boiler. Flue gases are created in this situation and released through the gas slot. The blower door of the Kholmov boiler supplies an initial volume of air that is insufficient for full combustion due to its unique design. As a result, there is a specific chemnezhog when the appliance is operating.

In this instance, chemical underburning suggests that during oxidation, carbon dioxide is formed in combination with carbon monoxide rather than in its pure form. The auxiliary grate draws air into the holes in it as it passes beneath it. Because there are so many holes, there is already too much secondary air present. This location has very high heat tension, with temperatures as high as 700–800 degrees, which causes carbon monoxide residues to oxidize.

Vital details! Peeping through the rear top door peephole, you can see that the auxiliary grate is exploding with fire (it appears blue or yellow, like it is burning gas).

The gas travels to the furnace chamber’s radiation compartment following oxidation. There, the exchanger causes it to mix, rise, and split into a few streams. Next, the outlet spigot is used to feed the gas straight into the chimney. The walls next to the exchanger and the exchanger itself absorb convective heat energy. The working fluid travels through the entire apparatus between the heat exchanger and the chambers after passing through the inlet and hitting the wall. The device’s upper outlet pipe allows the coolant that has already heated to be fed into the heating system.

Boiler drawing

Creating a heat exchanger for shaft solid fuel boiler

This instance pertains to the water jacket, featuring multiple rows of pipes arranged horizontally. Experts advise against building a heat exchanger with vertical pipes because the coolant’s movement will align with the flow of carbon monoxide fumes.

Consequently, solid fuel boilers of the shaft type have a significantly lower efficiency. When the directions of movement are opposite one another, the coefficient exhibits its maximum value.

This is how the heat exchanger is constructed:

1. A square or rectangular shaped shell is welded. Its parameters should be made 6 centimeters smaller than the heat exchanger chamber.
2. Two holes are made in the shell. One of them should coincide with the hole in the partition for the gate valve, and the second – with the hole for cleaning the combustion chamber.
3. In the upper part of the other two, opposite sides of the shell bore holes for 25-millimeter tubes. For this purpose, a crown for metal is installed in the drill. Three rows of holes are created in a staggered pattern. The main thing is that the holes on one side should be higher than the holes on the opposite wall.
4. The tubes are cut into sections, inserted and welded.

Recommendations and operating experience

A common misconception is that the boiler’s efficiency will rise if the chamber’s area or number of heat exchangers are increased. Actually, the majority of the heat—between 60 and 70 percent—is obtained in the radiation portion.

It is advised to stack firewood along the grates rather than across them to ensure better and more uniform fuel combustion. Every 12 to 16 hours, the boiler is either fully loaded or occasionally placed underneath. Every two days, the ash needs to be cleared out. Every six weeks, the heat exchanger is cleaned.

The boiler of Kholmov heats up rapidly. It takes only twenty minutes to reach extremely high temperatures when fully loaded. Three kg of briquettes are needed for an hour of heating. It heats for roughly 13 hours when fully loaded with this fuel; 36 kg of dry birch burns for up to 9 hours. In certain instances, the boiler malfunctioned during the off-season when the supply temperature reached 50 ° and the minimum mode was necessary. Sam Holmov suggests staying away from the smoldering mode.

After first smearing the joints with soap solution, the boiler must undergo an obligatory pressure test at 1.5 atm using air.

It is advised to only buy a Kholmova boiler under contract and from the reputable manufacturer directly.

The main advantages and disadvantages of boiler equipment of mine type

This kind of heater is a true gem for a country home or country guest house. Obtaining the ideal fuel for a given task is not always feasible. In cold and wet seasons, dry firewood is an uncommon occurrence. Low performance of other heating devices could be caused by the state of the firewood. Such drawbacks do not affect my heating devices.

The following benefits come with installing such heating equipment in your home:

• The unit works practically on any type of solid organic fuel;
• Units are able to operate in different modes of operation (wide range of power);
• the equipment is economical. One charge is enough for 12-24 hours;
• long and continuous operation throughout the heating season;
• The units of this type are characterized by their energy independence;
• simplicity of design and ease of maintenance (ash is removed during operation of the unit);
• high level of safety of the operating unit.

As an aside, when evaluating the benefits of mine-specific boiler equipment, it’s important to remember that, similar to other boilers, this one needs skilled piping. If not, you run the risk of losing all of this equipment’s benefits.

This kind of boiler equipment has additional drawbacks, such as its straightforward design. Here, you must exercise caution and focus! Unpleasant outcomes may result from incorrect interpretation of the equipment’s fundamental operating parameters and a cursory understanding of the mine boiler type’s operation principle.

The heating device has an easy-to-understand design at first glance. Many attempt to make such equipment by hand.

Because it is crucial to position the heat exchangers expertly and precisely, attempts do not always succeed. Your boiler will immediately boil if the water-tube heat exchanger is positioned low because the temperature in the combustion chamber can reach 450–5000C. This will have unfavorable effects.

The following types of heating devices can be distinguished based on the furnace chamber design, according to the creators’ names. Kholmov boilers and Efimov heating devices make up the majority of the heating units used in homes.

Boilers with automatic coal feeding

Automated coal-fired boilers. This direction has also been actively penetrated in recent years, and apparently, this movement will continue, because the demand for automated coal boilers due to the popularity of this type of fuel in our country is high. Ten years ago in Russia actively spread the Hungarian-made coal boilers under the brand Carborobot (Carborobot) – with automation. Emissions with the exhaust gases are then drastically reduced. Moscow environmentalists who repeatedly inspected Carborobots could not make any significant claims to the equipment and did not prevent their use. Efficiency of Hungarian boilers has grown on average about 80-85%. We would like to hope that in the next few years Russia will also be able to compete with Hungarian manufacturers, but alas, it is too early to talk about it yet.

Starkov, Б. В., Cand. tech. sciences

2 Continuous burning device classical scheme

The suggested design has a 22 kW power and a 75% efficiency. Works for 10 hours on wood without needing to be loaded again, and for 24 hours on coal. The volume of the furnace is 83 liters up to the stoking hole’s lower edge. Polish-made automatics, including a control unit with a KG Elektronik SP-05 temperature sensor and DP-02 fan, are installed in the boiler. The drawing displays the general view.

The way the gadget functions is as follows:

1. 1. Wood is loaded into the fuel box and set on fire. The doors are hermetically sealed.
2. 2. The required heating temperature of at least 50° is set on the control unit. The button on the unit is pressed and the fan starts blowing air.
3. 3. When the set temperature is reached, the fan stops supplying air. Firewood smolders slowly, gives very little heat.
4. 4. After some time the temperature drops. The fan is switched on again and combustion continues.

The combustion process is controlled by the electronic unit to ensure optimal efficiency. There is hardly any smoldering, and waiting modes and intense combustion are used.

The inside view is depicted in the picture below.

The traditional method of burning solid fuel transfers heat directly to the walls of the water jacket and the tank vault. It has a heat exchanger installed to absorb heat from the gases. A duct from below supplies the furnace with heated air. Large loads of fuel allow the boiler to run for an extended period of time. A gravity damper controlled by the automatics completely blocks the air while the fan is waiting to be turned off, preventing natural drafts.

The rear section with the heat-tube heat exchanger is depicted in the drawing.

Features of the Russian market

The efficiency of heat transfer in long-burning solid fuel boilers with automatic controls varies.

Many experts rightly consider it not yet fully formed. This is why the lower efficiency is not always proportionally reflected in the price of the product. There is no sufficiently clear classification, proper certification of equipment.
More in-depth and detailed studies are needed. Regarding power modes, different heat carriers, types of fuel, use of magnetic converters, etc.д. – All these factors are directly reflected in the efficiency of the appliances.
Without sufficient knowledge, it is difficult for an ordinary consumer to even recognize the differences between, for example, direct-flow boilers and pyrolysis boilers. As for the "pyrolyzniki" and "miners", here and the manufacturers themselves are not quite defined with the terminology (see "Pyrolyzniki" and "miners"). below).
But such research is expensive. And they can be carried out only in special conditions by licensed specialists, which is not always and not all manufacturers are available to them. And since so far in Russia it was considered not obligatory, it is clear that the manufacturers of boiler equipment have no need to conduct in-depth research at their own risk – why??
The real sense in this will glimmer only if the combination of quality characteristics and prices for the product will be close to the ideal in its segment, and the results and conclusions of the research will be a valuable basis for advertising campaigns.
At the moment, several manufacturers, from those who understand the subject and produce liquid products, to the best of their ability to combine common efforts to create an independent protocol. It is quite likely, and I admit it, that it can serve as a basis for the formation in the future of a powerful production complex in Russia, which is able to overtake (technically and intellectually) the world leaders in the field of boiler construction.

We will show you how to build a straightforward and effective heating system for your house in our guide, "How to Make a Boiler with Your Own Hands." Constructing your own boiler can be an enjoyable undertaking that offers you greater control over your heating system and financial savings. We’ll take care of everything, from obtaining the required supplies to assembling the parts and guaranteeing safety precautions. This article will give you useful advice and insights to get started on your DIY boiler project, regardless of your motivation—lowering energy costs or simply enjoying the satisfaction of doing it yourself.

Manufacturing of the main part

The primary component is a homemade housing that is equipped with several functional devices and is divided into chambers. The enclosure has this construction:

1. They are studying a drawing of a homemade unit and determine the dimensions of all metal parts.
2. Rectangles are drawn on the lined steel sheet, which will be walls and separate metal parts of the homemade boiler shaft type.
3. Cut the sheet steel into pieces. It is better to do it by means of autogenous welding.
4. The side walls of the enclosure are welded together.
5. In the sheet, which will be a partition between the furnace and heat exchange chambers, cut two holes: one must be at the top, the other just above the grate level. It is desirable that the height of the second hole was 3 cm.
6. Place the workpiece inside the body, fix it as indicated in the drawing or the video and weld on. At the upper opening, install the gate valve and weld its base. The damper must be on the firebox side. On the other side weld a neck with a depth of 4 cm.
7. Make a grate. For this purpose in A piece of lined sheet steel is cut out longitudinally and not wide openings. The grate can also be purchased, but it must be made of steel with a liner. The cast iron product is not suitable, as it will shake during several months of operation of the self-made shaft type boiler.
8. The grate is welded on.
9. Openings for ash door and combustion chamber cleaning door are cut in the side walls. On the perimeter of the holes you need to weld the necks. They must protrude outwards and inwards by 6 and 3 cm respectively. It is better to weld the neck for the opening in the combustion chamber after the heat exchanger is welded on.
10. The inner walls of the combustion chamber are welded to a two rows of angles or profile pipe. The top row is placed 3-4 cm from the top. The lower one is at the level of the bottom of the combustion chamber. These corners will become part of the water jacket. Do not make a water jacket around the pyrolysis chamber, because this will disrupt pyrolysis.
11. Weld the heat exchanger with the inner part of the water jacket (its construction is described below).
12. Weld the bottom of the combustion chamber. It should be at the level of the grate. In this case, one third of it should be horizontal, and the rest of it should rise up at an angle. The size of the angle depends on the drawing. The horizontal part is made the part near the inner partition wall.
13. Above the bottom cut out air pipe opening.
14. Drill a large number of holes in a 5 cm diameter pipe and weld it to the hole in the body. In this case, the pipe is placed so that it protrudes from the outside by 6 cm. This part should not have holes. Fix a damper at the end of the pipe.
15. Cover the walls of the combustion chamber with fireclay bricks. To fit the material to the required dimensions, it is cut to size. The top of the chamber should be a brick protruding inside. Between the bricks there should be opening for further movement of pyrolysis gas.
16. A similar process is done in the combustion chamber.

Manufacturing of the inner part

It is a structure with side, back, and front walls in addition to a water baffle. Making a water partition marks the beginning of the Kholmov boiler’s construction. Its measurements ought to be as follows:

1. Height – 485 mm.
2. The depth is 60 mm.
3. Width – 403 mm.

Two vertical walls with top and bottom weldings make up the partition. A curved "U" shaped compensator needs to be welded in the center. It is initially welded to a single wall. The partition wall shouldn’t have any end walls.

To create a Kholmov boiler, proceed as follows:

1. Cut out of metal the sides of the inner part of the shaft boiler. According to drawings and various videos they have a height of 77 cm and a width of 54.6 cm. True, they are not simple rectangles, because in front at the bottom corner there should be a vertical rectangle of 80×208 mm, and at the top of the same side should be adjacent to a horizontal rectangle of 387×30 mm. Also in these two sides cut out the holes for the water partition. They are made at a distance of 102 mm from the back side and 20 mm from the top side.
2. Cut out the back and front sides. According to the drawings, the size of the first one is 770×403 mm, the second one – 562×403 mm.
3. Weld all the elements into a single structure. At this stage Spot welding is performed. In this way, all parts will form a single structure, and it will be possible to correct its diagonals.
4. The two metal frames are welded together. One should be one piece, the other should have the shape of the letter "P". The first one is fixed at the very top of the welded structure. The other one at the bottom. The angle between them and the sides to which they are welded must be straight. Frames can be cut out of metal or welded from metal strips with a width of 3 cm.
5. Carefully weld all the seams.
6. Another U-shaped frame is made. It should be such that it can fit inside the structure. It is placed under the water partition at a distance of 9 cm from it.
7. A horizontal metal strip is welded to the top of the two rectangles that protrude from the front of the structure. It is 8 cm wide and 40.3 cm long.
8. At the top of the back side, a round 115-mm hole is cut out.

Pyrolysis boilers

Have ambiguous positions and even gained a certain reputation of "scandalous". In Russia, they began to be used in the household segment, replacing direct-flow boilers, and the difference in efficiency seemed striking. In the working mode, the efficiency of these boilers demonstrates great efficiency, reaching 80-90%. Manufacturers of pyrolysis boiler technology "undercut" the range of operating capacities (from 80 to 100% of nominal parameters), heat accumulators are required. They also limited the humidity for fuel to 20%. However, the new models work with any fuel and humidity, with a wide range of outputs (from 30 to 110% of the nominal). Some modifications constructively approached to the characteristics of mine boilers of long bottom combustion and can quite work more than a day on a single charge. By the way, the similarity of pyrolysis and shaft boilers is really there. Not without reason and manufacturers often call pyrolysis boilers ("pyrolyzniki") are called "mine boilers", and vice versa. Pyrolysis boilers, however, quite firmly occupy their own niche, and judging by the dynamics, will continue to improve.

Pyrolysis boilers with automation

Flare-type pellet burners automate pyrolysis boilers and t.н. miners, suggesting that fuel loading procedures into the furnace chamber itself may also be automated. I can only speculate that some more or less serious research work has been started in this direction in Russia, but as of right now, we know nothing about such developments.

Manufacture of continuous combustion boiler

You will need steel St 20 if you want to perform the installation yourself. It will last the unit made of it for at least fifteen years. Steel that has a high carbon content is not suitable for manufacturing because it could burn at high temperatures. If at all possible, purchase heat-resistant steel that has been chromium or molybdenum alloyed. You can determine what sizes of blanks are needed to manufacture the device from the table.

Blank dimensions

It is best to visit a workshop with guillotine shears in order to cut the material. Time will be saved to a great extent because there won’t be burrs in the parts. Additionally, the following information is required:

1. Equal-sided angle 50×4 mm. Will need to make grates.
2. 2 pipes: DN50 and DN The first one is for the heat exchanger and pipes to which the heating system will be connected. The second one is for the chimney.
3. Pipe 60×40 mm for the ducting channel.
4. Steel strip 20×3 mm.
5. Basalt insulation.
6. handles.
7. Asbestos cardboard and cord.

You’ll also need some common household tools for cutting and welding metal, among other things.

Control unit and fan

A temperature sensor, fan, and control unit will all be utilized in the shaft boiler. It is worthwhile to locate Polish products, which resemble Chinese products quite a bit but differ greatly in terms of assembly quality and lifespan. Control unit marking: KG Elektronik SP-05; fan marking: DP-02.

Heating unit

Assembling the fuel box’s body is the first step in the shaft boiler’s construction. It is composed of 4 mm thick metal components. It is necessary to tack weld them together. Commence with the lower section, where the side sections, the vault cover, and the door openings are to be attached. It ought to look roughly like it does in the picture:

Walls being welded

It is essential to adhere to the illustration. The bottom sheet needs to be spread out to both sides. It will also function as the bottom portion of the ash compartment doors. Welding will be required to secure the shelves in the chamber. The materials included information on angles. There will be the grate installed.

It is crucial to fully weld all joints and then inspect each compartment for tightness after welding.

Walls are welded together.

The water coat needs to be inserted next. It is made of three millimeter metal. The fuel box is welded to a steel strip that is 20 mm in diameter because the side walls should be 2 cm thick. The steel sheets, or cladding, must be nailed to the walls.

Walls of tanks

It is crucial to remember that the water coat should begin at the grid’s level. The compartment shouldn’t be cleaned for ash by it.

The clips must then be installed sporadically, as seen in the picture. One end needs to be butt-welded to the furnace, and the other end needs to be welded around the opening.

You can tell where to put the water coat’s bottom based on the photo.

The installation of pipes, which will allow the heat to be released, comes next. They are positioned in the boiler tank’s upper section of the shaft. The drawing illustrates the location of the holes that need to be cut in the front and back for these pipes. Both their ends and the other water coat joints need to be well welded.

These pipes ought to be distributed like fans.

Installing the door and grate is the next stage. A strip that is welded in two rows to the inside of the door is required. The asbestos cord, which will serve as the door’s seal, is placed in between the components. Welding the grate’s outer corner downward is necessary. The air fed into the ash compartment by a fan will be distributed in this manner.

Grate spike

After taking all necessary precautions, the connections must be cut into the shaft boiler’s walls. They will be connected to return and supply pipelines. The ash compartment should be where the air line enters, close to the center of the rear wall. It is directly beneath the water coat.

Pipe installation

Door hinges and embedded components must then be welded; this will facilitate the installation of the decorative trim.

Fasteners

The long-burning boiler’s tank needs to have insulation placed over it on all sides. A cord can be used to fix it. The door must be installed and the tidy metal sheets must be screwed to the components.

Using glass wool or other materials is not required. Basalt insulation performs its function admirably.

Installing the purchased control unit and attaching the fan to the duct’s flange are required. Near the back of the device, beneath the basalt insulation, is where you should find the temperature sensor. The boiler, also known as the "bragman," can have more units installed, which is advantageous.

1. An additional water tank can be installed where the water will be heated.
2. A dip sleeve for a thermometer can be installed in case of a power outage.
3. To put a heater, which will be able to heat up the water after the complete combustion of wood.

At any point during the project, the unit’s feet are welded. To achieve this, appropriate metal components are used. The shaft boiler diagrams are shown below.

Making a long burning boiler

Making such a construction at home is not difficult, but it does require welding machine proficiency and clear instructions.

Step 1. Preparation of everything necessary

To assemble the boiler, you will require:

• Metal pipe ø30 cm or more with a wall thickness of 4-5 mm; The body can be made of sheet steel by welding
• welding machine;
• 5 mm thick sheet steel (for the distributor);
• bolgar;
• ø6 cm pipe for oxygen supply;
• pipe ø10 cm for flue gas outlet from the structure.

Once the supplies and equipment are ready, you can get to work.

Stage 2. Assembly of the structure

Be mindful! Installing the boiler on a level surface is a must. If necessary, a concrete base is set up (the exact amount relies on the overall weight of the structure).

This is the order in which the steps are performed during assembly.

Step 1: The pipe, which will make up the structure’s body, is cut to the desired length (0.8 to 1 m). Longer lengths will make loading the fuel during operation more challenging. Sheet steel is welded for the bottom, and channel legs are used if necessary.

Step 2 is the formation of the air distributor. This is accomplished by cutting a circle out of a steel sheet whose diameter is two centimeters smaller than the structure’s diameter. A 2 centimeter hole is drilled in the circle’s center.

The distributor has an impeller welded to it that has 5-centimeter steel blades. The previously created hole is in the center of an æ6 cm pipe that is welded on top.

Drum of the boiler and air distributor

Boiler walls twice

Boiler walls twice

Be mindful! The height of this pipe should match that of the boiler drum, if not more.

A flap to control the oxygen supply is attached to the top of the pipe.

Step 3: A door to remove combustion products is located close to the boiler’s bottom. Using a bolgar, a rectangle is cut out of steel sheet, and hinges with a locking handle are fastened. We’ll use the rectangle as a door.

Fuel-loading hatch

Step 4: Install the 10 centimeter chimney pipe on top of the boiler. The first 40–45 cm of pipe should run straight through the horizontal, passing through the heat exchanger (which is a metal container filled with water).

Step 5: The boiler cover is removed, and a hole is made for the air distributor.

Smoke will escape through the gaps if the lid is not as tightly fitted against the body as it should be.

Boiler cover (an additional choice)

All set, the long-burning heat generator is operational.

How to fire a shaft type boiler

The mine boiler operates with its own subtleties and nuances, just like any other type of boiler technology intended to heat residential buildings.

The quality of the fuel and the way the wood is loaded into the fuel chamber are the first and most crucial factors for the machine to operate normally. Proper firewood stacking results in a solid fuel mine boiler with high thermal efficiency.

In addition to maximizing performance, properly stacked fuel will lessen the chance of smoke entering the living area.

The length of combustion and, thus, the heating unit’s operation time are determined by the quality of fuel stacking.

As an aside, the majority of users are unable to operate the heating device properly due to a lack of requisite skills. Shaft boilers run in the regular mode as opposed to the gas generation mode. Consequently, such a unit has a very low efficiency.

1. Initial ignition of firewood in the traditional way.
2. In 15-20 minutes the boiler will be able to reach its nominal output.
3. After the boiler enters the working mode, the rest of the wood is loaded into the fuel shaft and the boiler enters the pyrolysis mode of operation.

Properly chosen and piled firewood is an assurance that the boiler will operate for an extended period, supplying warmth to your house.

Regarding the fuel itself, a lot relies on the homeowner’s imagination and financial capacity. The efficiency of the boiler is directly influenced by the material used to heat it, even though mine type heaters are omnivorous.

Pellets, woodworking waste, and fuel briquettes are placed in the boiler furnace. Although briquettes and pellets are expensive compared to regular firewood, they are regarded as an elite class of fuel.

Especially when we consider how unassuming mine boiler equipment is in terms of fuel availability. The main fuel source for mine boilers is firewood.

At least half of the wood needed for firewood laying must be made during the operation.

As an aside, hard wood works better for boiler heating. Because pine and spruce logs contain a lot of resin, tar may form and build up on the walls of the combustion chamber.

Method of stacking firewood in the shaft boiler

After learning the fundamentals of how mine-type heating devices work and the fuel requirements, it’s important to pay attention to how the fuel is laid.

The most common issues that mine solid fuel boiler owners deal with are those that arise from firewood being hung inside the fuel chamber. This phenomenon is caused by improper stacking. Considering the shaft boiler’s operating principle, which involves primary combustion in the device’s lower section, the firewood ought to descend effortlessly with its own weight.

In this instance, failing to follow the stacking guidelines for firewood carries a risk of abruptly stopping the primary process—fuel burning. Prior to using the shaft units, the following advice needs to be taken into consideration:

• the logs intended for laying should be of smaller size, a few centimeters less than the values of the perimeter of the fuel shaft;
• firewood should always be stacked across the shaft and never along it;
• the driest logs should be placed on the bottom, while damp wood can be placed on the top.

A few easy steps will enable your boiler to operate normally. If all the laying guidelines are followed, one load of firewood ought to last for twelve hours. During this time, the boiler will operate on its own without your assistance.

Device

The components of the Kholmov boiler are as follows:

• housing;
• fuel shaft;
• chamber with heat exchanger;
• grates;
• door;
• ash pan;
• expansion compensators;
• flue pipe connection;
• outlets and inlets for supply, return, drain and installation of safety group or safety valve;
• thermoregulator.

A 12 kW heating device weighs approximately 255 kg. It is 124 cm tall, 48.5 cm wide, and 66 cm long. This boiler can easily be moved into the doorway. The only internal construction differences exist between the 10 kW devices and the previous model, both externally and in terms of dimensions.

Chamber for loading

The boiler’s double upper doors and heat insulator inside allow the temperature inside to stay below 80°C. Sealant asbestos cord is used to adhere the edges together. applied paint that is heat-resistant. Four quick-release screws hold the back cover shut, while special locks secure the other covers. Just 40% of the ash chamber’s bottom door is covered in heat insulator. It never gets hotter than ninety degrees because constant airflows keep it cool.

Kindly take note! The boiler’s bottom, or chamber, is not the bottom. It’s a unique plate with two long legs and an internal heat insulator. This gives you the ability to work more efficiently while also making the space more fire safe.

It is therefore possible to install the appliance even on a wooden floor.

This not only makes the room more efficient, but it also makes it fire safe. It is therefore possible to install the appliance even on a wooden floor.

Energy-related In addition, Kholmova boilers come with a controller to regulate the combustion process and a fan or smoke evacuator. However, models that are energy-independent are primarily in high demand. The RT3 type thermo regulator in them regulates the boiler. It’s on the wall in front. A chain is used to connect the thermoregulator to the small blower door via a unique eyelet.

Smoke pump-equipped boiler

The purpose of the blower door is to keep the fuel in the boiler burning by supplying it with oxygen. It is situated on the main Ash Chamber door. As long as there is a specific opening for minimum air passage, it is never totally closed.

The flue pipe is connected to the spigot at the top located at the back. This component is what causes a natural draught to occur. As a result, the blast door allows oxygen to begin entering the boiler. Two removable cast iron grates allow air to pass into the ash pan chamber. There’s another welded grate behind them, which is positioned above the earlier ones and is called a hump.

Ash collection is housed in a box beneath the grates. The door is easily pulled out and can be cleaned of waste materials after it has been opened. A half-inch socket is located at the bottom of the boiler for draining the coolant; the same socket is used for the safety group or safety valve. With the outlet pipe at the top and the return pipe at the bottom, the supply and return pipes are larger.

Kindly take note! The design of the boiler incorporates expansion compensators to prevent it from expanding to critical dimensions and from splitting the welds.

They are positioned all the way around the heater’s edge. Between the chambers within the casing are bars and partitions as well. The installation of separation walls is spaced 24 cm apart from one another. The heat exchanger’s dimensions allow it to maintain its shape, so there are no expansion compensators inside.

Boiler device

The structure of the Kholmov heating unit is shaft-like. These boilers fall into two categories:

• dependent on electric power supply;
• operating without connection to the electrical network.

The construction of all Holmova boilers is the same and includes the following components:

• metal housing;
• two chambers – fuel chamber and shaft with heat exchanger;
• thermoregulator;
• grates;
• spigot to which the chimney pipe is connected;
• thermal expansion compensators;
• inlets and outlets for drainage, supply and outlets and installation of a safety valve;
• doors;
• sliding tray for ash collection.

The unit doors consist of a layer of thermal insulation material sandwiched between two metal sheets. Their contoured edges are adhered to with an asbestos-based heat-resistant sealant. The maximum temperature that the doors can be heated to is 80 degrees Celsius thanks to their design.

Only the rear closing panel is fixed with removable screws; the covers are fastened with unique locks. Less than 50% of the thermal insulation in the ash compartment door is due to the constant airflows cooling it.

The larger hopper of the Kholmov boiler is visible in the picture.

A unique plate with a material that reduces heat transfer is located at the bottom of the device. On top is a chamber, and on the bottom are two long, sturdy legs.

Kholmova boilers with energy-dependent designs come with an instrument that controls the process and a fan. The thermoregulator, which is used to automatically adjust the heat output of the heating equipment, is located on the front wall of units that run off of electricity. A unique chain connects the unit to the blower door. The ash pan is placed right beneath the wheelbarrow. The ash pan is simple to remove when the door is open. A spigot for draining the working fluid is located at the bottom of the boiler. The unit is designed with return outlets at the bottom and inlet outlets at the top.

In addition to being positioned as rods and partitions within the casing, expansion compensators are situated all the way around the unit. They prevent the casing from heating up to dangerously high volumes. Additionally, this keeps the heat exchanger from deforming. The space between the partition walls is 24 centimeters.

The process of manufacturing solid-fuel long-burning boilers with their own hands drawings and assembly

The fact that the constructions can have both a lower and an upper gas combustion chamber should be mentioned right away. In the first scenario, natural forces allow the combustion products to enter the working compartment; in the second, an additional air injection device facilitates this process.

Construction blueprints for independent production

It makes little sense to consider boilers with a lower combustion chamber because they are challenging to manufacture and require additional equipment during installation. Building a structure with an upper chamber for gas combustion is quicker and more cost-effective.

An illustration of the methodical construction of a homemade device

The following explains how to build a long-burning, solid-fuel boiler on your own with readily available materials.

Used elements

The following will be necessary for the structure’s manufacturing:

• pipe with a cross-section of 500 mm and a length of 1300 mm;
• pipe with a diameter of 450 mm and a length of 1500 mm;
• pipe with a cross-section of 60 mm and a length of 1200 mm;
• two rings with a width of 25 mm and a diameter of 500 mm;
• metal angles and pieces of channel;
• metal sheet;
• asbestos sheet;
• hinges and handles.

This pipe can serve as the structure’s main support.

The order of assembling the housing

First, pipes measuring 1500 and 1300 mm in cross-section are inserted into one another. A ring composed of a 25×25 mm angle bar connects them. A 450 mm-diameter circle is cut from a metal sheet and fastened to the pipe’s end. It serves as a base. Consequently, a small barrel ought to emerge.

A rectangular hole measuring 15 by 10 cm is drilled on the bottom side of the structure to accommodate the ashtray door. Hinge mechanisms hold the sash to the opening, and the latch is fixed in place.

For the construction, an ordinary gas cylinder can be utilized.

Just above it, a rectangular hole is cut for the fuel chamber. One can ascertain the dimensions on their own. Accurately choosing dimensions will determine how convenient it is to load fuel, such as firewood. The same technology is used to install a latching door.

The exhaust gases will enter the chimney pipe with the aid of an outlet pipe built into the upper portion of the homemade construction. The spigots required for connecting to the building’s heating system are fixed to the sides via welding. They inevitably have a slit in them.

Where the chimney’s outlet pipe is located

Design of the air distributor

A piece of tin is cut into the shape of a circle, the cross-section of which is 20–30 mm smaller than the diameter of the inner part of the boiler. A circular hole for the air distribution pipe is made in the middle. It should have a diameter of 6 cm. After being directly inserted into the opening, the pipe is welded to the base.

Stabilizer-equipped air distributor

Angle pieces are fastened to the bottom of the metal pancake. To move the structure up and down, a hinge on the opposite side is fixed by welding. A damper is installed to modify the air supply directly into the combustion chamber.

Distributing air using welded corners

A 500 mm-diameter circle is cut from an appropriate-sized piece of metal and inserted into the structure. The boiler’s top cover is then securely welded on after the pipe’s upper end has been inserted into the hole. You can raise and lower the distributor thanks to a cable that is fastened to the hinge.

An overview of the completed building

Be mindful! The most straightforward solid-fuel long-burning boiler scheme was showcased. Assembling a dependable construction with your hands is not that hard, particularly if you know how to weld and use other tools.

How to fire a mine boiler with wood

1. Autonomous operation for 6-8 hours.
2. No smoke in the room.
3. Sufficient heat output.

1. They ignite wood in the usual mode.
2. Wait for 15-20 minutes until the boiler reaches working power.
3. Transfer the device into the mode of gas generation.

what kind of wood is best for a shaft type boiler

• Briquettes.
• Waste wood.
• Pellets.
• Sawdust and wood chips.

The manufacturers advise using any hard wood of hard varieties to fuel the boilers. Resinous rocks should not be used because they shorten the boiler’s lifespan.

How to properly stack firewood in a shaft boiler

• Laying is done with logs, a few centimeters smaller than the size of the furnace chamber.
• Firewood is stacked across the firebox, not along it.
• Dry logs are placed at the bottom, wet ones can be placed on top.

Advantages and disadvantages of wood-fired shaft-type boilers

• Versatility – boilers are able to operate on almost any type of solid fuel. It is allowed to use firewood with relative humidity of 45%.
• Performance – models offered by various manufacturers are designed for heating private houses, cottages, industrial and storage facilities.
• Autonomy – energy-independent mine TT boilers of long-lasting bottom combustion on wood, do not depend on the availability of electricity. In economy mode, one load of wood will last from 12 to 24 hours. At maximum load, you will have to add fuel already after 6-8 hours.
• Easy maintenance – fuel loading and chamber cleaning, is done through different hatches. To clean the shaft, there is no need to stop the boiler. The ash is poured into a special box and then removed.
• Safety – operation of the boiler does not require the use of complex automation, it is carried out in a simple but effective way. The danger of smoke entering the room and carbon monoxide poisoning is almost completely eliminated.

Manufacturing of the outer part of the boiler

More outer walls and doors are needed for the Kholmov boiler. Several videos claim that the following steps are involved in the boiler’s manufacturing process:

1. Cutting out the outer walls from metal. In this case they are simple rectangles. The back side measures 77×46.3 cm, the sides are 77×57.6 cm, and the front side is 56.2×46.3 cm.
2. Cutting of 2 round or diamond-shaped compensation holes in the front wall. Diameter of round ones – 1 cm. They are placed on one vertical line. Also, a 15 mm hole is made in the upper right corner. It is necessary for the thermometer.
3. Cutting holes in the rear wall. In it make 2 compensatory and additional 3 holes: the first is for the chimney, the second – for the supply of coolant (diameter 40 mm), the third – for the drain valve (diameter 15 mm).
4. Cutting in the side walls of the 4 compensating holes. In this case, one pair in the two walls is placed so that it was on the same straight line with the compensator of the water jacket. In these holes later you need to insert a metal bar and weld it. Two holes are drilled in the left side wall: the first one has a diameter of 40 mm (needed for the return of the coolant), the second one has a diameter of 20 mm (for the thermoregulator).
5. Manufacturing of U-shaped expansion joints. There should be 10 of them. Dimensions 4x4x3 cm (DxWxH).
6. Welding the expansion joints to the expansion holes exterior walls.
7. Welding of all external walls to the internal structure.
8. Welding of spigots and flue pipe.
9. Welding of 4 bolts on the top of the structure. They are placed along the perimeter of the heat exchange chamber.
10. Tightness check. To do this, put plugs on all spigots and pour water into the Kholmova boiler. Then raise the pressure up to 2.2 bar. The working pressure of the device will be 1.5 bar. All leakage points are welded with electrode welding at high currents on water. This process can be seen in different videos.
11. Welding of the bottom.

How to make with your own hands

The Kholmov boiler’s straightforward design makes it easy to assemble on your own. Studying the entire assembly process step-by-step will be made easier by the device’s schematic and detailed description. The simplest model, capable of up to 10 kilowatts, is used in the example.

The boiler’s measurements will line up with these specifications:

• depth including door and neck – 63 centimeters;
• The height of the body is 80 centimeters;
• width – 47 centimeters.

How to construct a Kholmov boiler by hand

In order to put the heating unit together, the following supplies must be bought:

• Thick-walled steel sheets with a thickness of at least 3 millimeters;
• Asbestos cord with parameters 15 x15 millimeters;
• Metal spigot with a length of 47 millimeters and a cross section of 1 centimeter;
• Pipes of different diameters – 15, 20, 40 and 115 millimeters.

You can do the following steps to make a solid fuel boiler by hand:

1. The inner part of the structure is made. Initially, the water barrier is constructed. It consists of two vertical walls with a bottom and a lid welded to them. A metal U-shaped compensator is fixed in the center by welding. The ends of the construction are left uncovered. The water partition must be 403 millimeters wide, 60 millimeters deep and 485 millimeters wide.
2. The inner side walls of the boiler are cut from metal sheets with a width of 540 millimeters and a height of 770 millimeters. The rectangle should turn out not quite right – in the lower corner in the front will be a vertical figure with a size of 80×208 millimeters, and on top on the same side is formed a horizontal rectangular structure with parameters 387×30 millimeters. At a distance of 10.2 centimeters from the rear wall and 2 centimeters from the front wall on both sides of the water partition holes are made for the water partition.
3. The back side is cut out – 770×403 millimeters and the front side – 562×403 millimeters.
4. All prepared parts are connected into one construction with the help of spot welding.
5. The first one-piece frame is welded to the top of the assembled boiler body. The second one must have a U-shape and is attached from below. A right angle must be observed between the frames and the sides.
6. The third frame in the form of the letter "P" is prepared, which should fit inside the body under the water barrier. The distance between them should be 9 centimeters.
7. To the rectangles protruding in the front of the structure horizontally weld a strip of metal with a length of 103 millimeters and a width of 80 millimeters.
8. On the rear side, a hole of 115 millimeters is made at the top.
9. The outer walls are cut out of metal sheets. They have a simple rectangular shape and correspond to the dimensions, front – 562×463 millimeters, rear -77×463 millimeters and side -77×546 millimeters.
10. The holes for the expansion joints are made in the front wall in one vertical line. They are enough a couple of pieces with a diameter of 1 centimeter. A circular opening for the thermometer is cut out in the corner on the right-hand side.
11. Two compensation holes are added to the back of the housing, and one each for the supply, drain valve and chimney.
12. Two openings are made in the side walls on the same line with the prepared water barrier compensator. Next, round openings are made in the left wall on the side of the structure for the thermoregulator and the return flow of the coolant.

Diagram of the Kholmova solid-fuel boiler

Expandable joints are then welded into holes that have been specially prepared. Every exterior wall is welded to the interior component. Spouts, smoke pipes, and four bolts that surround the heat exchanger’s chamber on top of the body are all connected via welding.

To test the construction’s tightness, water is poured into the assembled device and pressure is increased to 2.2 bar. All of the spigots need to be plugged simultaneously. The boiler’s bottom is welded at the conclusion.

A 400 x 160 x 550 millimeter threshold with 14 holes is created using a metal sheet. It is situated beneath the water baffle at the base of the structure. The construction of an ash drawer and two-layer door is then cut out. The boiler’s chambers are sealed with a cover at the conclusion.

Mine-type heating equipment is highly efficient and has simple operating features. It runs on solid fuel. You can construct a device similar to the Holmov boiler’s assembly scheme with your own hands to heat a country home or cottage.

Step	Description
Gather Materials	Collect necessary materials like a metal container, pipes, insulation, and a heating element.
Design	Create a design plan for your boiler, considering size, placement, and safety measures.
Prepare Container	Modify the metal container to serve as the boiler chamber, ensuring it"s clean and safe for use.
Install Heating Element	Place the heating element inside the container, making sure it"s securely attached and wired correctly.
Connect Pipes	Attach pipes to the boiler for water inlet and outlet, ensuring proper flow and connections.
Add Insulation	Wrap the boiler with insulation material to conserve heat and improve efficiency.
Test and Monitor	Test your homemade boiler for functionality and safety, and monitor it regularly for any issues.

Building your own boiler can be an economical and satisfying way to heat your house. You can construct a boiler that satisfies your unique requirements and stays within your price range by following the instructions provided in this guide. Every step, from acquiring supplies to putting the parts together, calls for meticulous planning and close attention to detail.

Being able to tailor your boiler to your tastes is one of the main advantages of building your own. Do-it-yourself boiler building offers countless options for maximizing efficiency, cutting energy use, or just experimenting with different designs. Your boiler’s dimensions, design, and functionality can all be customized to guarantee optimal performance.

Additionally, building your own boiler gives you the chance to learn useful information and abilities about energy systems, mechanics, and plumbing. You will gain knowledge about the concepts of insulation, combustion, and heat transfer as you proceed through the procedure. Through these practical experiences, you will gain a deeper understanding of how heating systems work as well as the ability to troubleshoot and maintain your boiler effectively.

But, safety must always come first when building and using your do-it-yourself boiler. Adhering to safety guidelines and regulations is imperative when working with combustible materials, high temperatures, and pressures, as these situations present inherent risks. Purchasing high-quality parts, carrying out exhaustive testing, and putting in place appropriate ventilation and emergency shutdown protocols are essential actions to guarantee the security of your house and its occupants.

To sum up, creating your own boiler is a rewarding experience that blends imagination, know-how, and practicality. Building a homemade boiler can be a fulfilling project, regardless of your motivations—saving money, lessening your impact on the environment, or just enjoying the satisfaction of do-it-yourself tasks. You can take advantage of the warmth and coziness of a well-designed heating system that is customized to meet your needs with meticulous planning, close attention to detail, and a dedication to safety.

Video on the topic

tejamkor kotyol yasash. ekanom kotyol yasash sirlari. boiler with your own hands. economical boiler.

Boiler with your own hands. tejamkot kotyol. uy isitish. heating. yasash boiler. economical boiler.

Stove for the bath with your own hands