How to lead the chimney through the wall

A chimney’s installation is an essential component of home heating systems, guaranteeing the effective and safe extraction of gases and smoke from your stove or fireplace. A frequent problem encountered by numerous homeowners is the correct way to lead the chimney through an external wall. To preserve the integrity of the wall and the chimney, this task needs to be carefully planned and carried out. We’ll lead you through the process of properly leading a chimney through your home’s wall in this guide.

Understanding the various parts involved is crucial before beginning the installation process. The chimney pipe or flue, which is the inner lining that directs the exhaust, and the chimney itself, which is the vertical structure that channels smoke and gases out of your home, make up your chimney system. In order to lead the chimney through the wall, a wall opening must be made to fit the chimney pipe and guarantee a tight seal to stop leaks and preserve the wall’s structural integrity.

Choosing the right spot is one of the first steps in leading a chimney through the wall. Ideally, this should be decided upon when your home heating system is first being planned. A few things to think about are how close you are to the stove or fireplace, how the interior and exterior walls are laid out, and whether there are any windows or doors in the way. In addition, you’ll have to follow the chimney placement and clearance requirements specified by the local building codes and regulations.

The next step is to prepare the wall for the chimney installation after you’ve determined the best location. This entails precisely calculating and marking the location of the chimney’s wall penetration. Creating the opening might require you to use a saw or drill, depending on how your home is built. Precautions must be taken in order to protect any internal electrical wiring or structural components of the wall.

You can now install the chimney pipe through the wall after the opening is made. To guarantee a correct fit and seal, this step needs to be done precisely. You might need to join the chimney pipe sections both inside and outside the wall using particular adapters or connectors, depending on the kind of chimney system you have. After the chimney pipe is firmly in position, the opening needs to be sealed to stop water intrusion and air leaks.

It takes careful planning, attention to detail, and adherence to safety regulations to lead a chimney through a wall. This guide will walk you through the process of installing a chimney that will improve your home’s overall safety and comfort while also working efficiently. If you have any questions, feel free to contact experts.

Method	Description
Through-the-wall kit	Install a through-the-wall chimney kit, which includes all necessary components for safely passing the chimney through the wall.
Professional installation	Hire a professional chimney installer who can properly assess your home"s structure and safely install the chimney through the wall.

Rules for passing through the ceiling

To guarantee the safety of the entire house, a chimney through the slab must be installed in compliance with regulations. Since there aren’t many combustible materials nearby, insulation should be increased as much as possible. Depending on the materials used to build the chimney, there are different rules.

Passage for a chimney through a wooden ceiling

Let’s examine the necessary width and distance to run a chimney through a wooden ceiling. The brick chimney wall here needs to be thicker than it is elsewhere. When there is no extra insulation and the pipe touches easily ignited materials, it should be 50 cm. A 38 cm width is permitted if the plaster has a minimum thickness of 25 mm. This section needs to be at least 70 cm above the ceiling.

Non-combustible materials must occupy the space between the building structure and the chimney opening through the wooden ceiling. The thickness should be at least 15 cm on each side. A passageway through non-combustible material sleeves is required for metal chimneys with wooden coverings.

Installation of a sandwich chimney through the wall

The smoke tube can be led through the wall in two different ways. One way to raise it in the room closer to the ceiling and lead it out is the first option (seen in the left photo). The second is to produce the boiler’s output at the flue level. Here, practically the whole chimney is exposed to the street.

How the sandwich chimney can be led through the wall

Choose option number two because, in the same conditions, the draught will be better because it has only one elbow. Additionally, there is less possibility of soot plug formation with such a structure.

The installation plan is slightly different if the flue outlet is located above rather than behind the stove: add an elbow at a 90-degree angle, followed by a straight section that goes through the wall, and then additionally, just like in other schemes.

The wall behind the stove is covered with a non-combustible screen, and the stove itself is set on a non-combustible base. A metal sheet is the easiest to fasten to the wall. It can be fixed on 2.5–3 cm high ceramic insulators. The wall will be secure because there will be a layer of air between the metal sheet and the wall. The alternative is to place heat-insulating material (such as cardboard with mineral wool) underneath the metal. An additional choice is an asbestos sheet (as seen in the picture).

Laying the groundwork for the furnace installation and inserting a piece of pipe into the wall FPU

The wall has a hole made in it. According to SNiP, the pipe’s dimensions should be at least 250 mm on all sides from non-combustible walls and 450 mm from combustible walls. It turns out to be a substantial hole, particularly when discussing walls composed of flammable materials. One trick that can be used to minimize the size of the sandwich passage opening is to build the opening’s dimensions in accordance with non-combustible wall standards and to cover it with non-combustible material.

An illustration of how to arrange for a sandwich pipe to pass through a wall

As long as fire codes are followed, the opening can be square or round. Square openings are more frequently used because they are simpler to create and coat.

This is the appearance of the pipe’s passage through the wall, which is covered in a metal sheet.

A non-combustible material box called the passage unit is inserted into this hole. It is then fitted with the sandwich chimney pipe and secured in the middle. Heat-resistant insulation is installed in all gaps, and non-flammable material is used to cover the opening on both sides. Usually, it’s a metal sheet.

A passage unit is introduced through the room’s side. It is composed of minerite in this instance, but it could also be metal.

One crucial detail to remember is that the chimney should be built without any pipe joints inside the wall. Every joint needs to be accessible and functional.

The next step is to construct or install a pre-made support bracket that can support the pipe’s entire weight. Although the design may vary slightly, the fundamental concept remains the same: a support platform that transfers weight to the wall with the aid of stops.

Customized 50*50 mm and 40*40 mm corner support platform for an external sandwich chimney a homemade support structure with pierced corners Building using a U-shaped metal profile

A profile pipe with a small cross-section of 25 x 25 mm or 25 x 40 mm can be used to weld such a structure.

As you can see, the pipe that passes through the wall is connected to a tee. Condensate collects in a detachable cup located in the lower section. Certain models feature a small tap connected to the bottom. It’s even more convenient because you can drain it by just turning on the tap; there’s no need to take out the cup because you can connect a hose to the connector, lead it to a container (you don’t need to drain it near the house because it’s highly toxic).

After that, the tube is raised to the necessary level. Given that the ridge is clearly more than three meters away in this instance, it is plausible that the chimney’s height was only marginally lower than the ridge, perhaps no less than ten degrees, with respect to the horizontal line that was drawn from the ridge’s level.

Leading out of the chimney above the ridge is preferred.

However, in order to provide a draft, the pipe was raised even higher than the ridge because this house is situated in a low-lying area. Stainless steel clamps were used to fasten it to the wall, spaced slightly more than a meter apart. Stretchers with a 6 mm diameter steel bar are mounted on the roof. To install the stretchers, they are fastened to unique clamps that have ears on them.

Sandwich tube-based stretches attached to the chimney

Another crucial detail that many overlook is the need to install a section of snow retarder on the roof where the pipe is to be installed. If the pipe is not led out towards the gable, as shown in the photo, snow may blow it away in the spring.

Organization of the node through the walls of the house or bathhouse

There are now two primary locations for sandwich chimney installation: inside the home and outside on the street. Indeed, chimneys are increasingly frequently installed from the first floor directly through the wall to the street, where they are already pointed upwards in a vertical direction. There’s also a sense to this: the chimney cools down considerably quicker and avoids going through the roof and fire-safe ceiling. However, a chimney that rises through the attic typically acts as an extra source of heat. Of course, there’s already a higher risk of fire.

You’ll be shocked to learn that the stainless steel sandwich’s exterior is actually quite similar in temperature to a single-circuit chimney. Since the original purpose of this type of chimney was to increase draft, the gases that exit the stove typically have a temperature of 800 degrees Celsius, while the outer casing can reach up to 300 degrees at the same time! Furthermore, this surface is already far from being fire-safe.

A contemporary sandwich chimney is led straight through the dwelling house’s walls and through the roof:

This illustration shows the assembly in greater detail:

You can thus use the following step-by-step instructions to help you arrange the sandwich chimney’s passage through the walls at the proper angle:

• Step 1. Before you start, be sure to calculate the length of horizontal sandwich pipe that will need to be run through the wall. And take into account the tee you"ll be installing. Calculate the slope of the roof, so that the chimney then does not end up too close to the eaves.
• Step 2. The box, which you insert into the wall, fill with non-combustible basalt material.
• Step 3. Close the passage assembly with a lid so that the basalt cardboard gasket remains visible.
• Step 4. The edges of such a cover of the knot close with a platband from the components of the external finishing of the house, for example, siding.
• Step 5. Seal the edges of the box with colorless roofing sealant.
• Step 6. Install a revision at the chimney outlet from the wall.
• Step 7. Fix the chimney with special wall brackets, one for each 1.5-2 meters.
• Step 8. So, after you have installed the pipe, check its verticality with the help of a level.
• Step 9. Make sure that the seam is turned toward the house.

Ultimately, the most crucial guideline is this: the chimney’s passage through the house or bathhouse wall needs to be as fire-safe as possible. Here is a nice illustration of one of these assemblies:

The sandwich chimney’s horizontal element needs to be properly supported with a metal corner in order for it to be installed securely:

In addition, assist in fastening the chimney to the wall in a precisely vertical orientation using specific constructions:

Trust me when I say that this is not the end of the work, particularly if your chimney has a complex design (which we strongly advise against):

Ceramic chimneys

When building an interior chimney, the following specifications must be met:

Setting up a ceramic pipe

• the minimum distance from the chimney to the supporting beams, if the laying between the pipe and the ceiling asbestos sheets in two layers – 250 mm, without laying asbestos – 380 mm.
• If there is asbestos insulation, the distance from the pipe to the wooden wall shall be 250 mm or more, if there is no insulation, the distance shall be at least 380 mm.
• when using mineral wool for insulation, the distance from the pipe to the rafters is taken at least 130 mm;
• if combustible materials are used – 260 mm;
• for roofing in the places of contact with the chimney should be used materials resistant to high temperatures (steel, ceramic tiles, slate). If such materials as asphalt shingles are used, it is necessary to prevent their contact with the pipe. The distance from the bituminous coating to the chimney in the plan should be at least 50 cm.

While choosing an external outlet is sometimes preferable, all of the aforementioned specifications are pertinent to the construction of an internal chimney. Since combustion products cannot enter the room, it prevents issues and raises the structure’s safety.

Products of combustion are released outside right away.

Only if the boiler is situated directly on the exterior wall is this installation appropriate. A lengthy horizontal section cannot be accommodated by the design. One of the benefits of utilizing it is the building’s appealing appearance. Boilers using liquid and gaseous fuels are best suited for this option. The design’s drawback is that it will result in more condensate forming, which will deposit materials on the pipe’s walls and cause it to burst.

The external chimney is constructed in the same manner as the internal one, however the walls that come into contact with cold air need to be insulated. Thermal insulation comes in up to 10 cm thicknesses, with the thickness determined by the local climate.

Since the chimney will typically still pass through the roof covering, it is important to follow the guidelines for internal leads. Provide a cleaning and inspection aperture in the lower section and install a drip tray.

It will be necessary to build an additional foundation or support ledge beneath the brick chimney.

It’s important to take into account these masonry specifications:

• provision of dressing;
• making of ceramic full-body bricks on lime (cement-lime) mortar inside the house;
• After the outlet through the roof, the masonry is carried out on cement mortar;
• the thickness of the joints should not exceed 10 mm;
• plastering of the inner surface of the pipe is prohibited.

Advantages of exterior placement

Not too long ago, the internal chimney was the only feasible placement option. By selecting this option, you can make the most of the heat that is coming from the pipe. Nevertheless, it has a number of drawbacks, the most prominent being its cumbersome nature and poor fire safety. The following are the benefits of the pipe passing through the wall in an external chimney:

An outside chimney with a wall-through opening

1. Compactness. It does not take up space inside the bathhouse, so it can be used in the smallest structures by area. Especially this plus is relevant for chimneys made of brick, as they take up a lot of space.
2. Fire safety. Unlike the placement of the chimney inside the bath, external, according to the assurances of experts, more fire-safe. This quality is very important for buildings with such a high risk of fire.
3. Convenience of assembly. Due to the fact that the installation process is equipped with only 1 passage through the wall, the installation of external , without resorting to expensive services of professional craftsmen.

Take note! Since condensation occurs when there is a significant temperature differential between the inside and outside of a pipe, the severe Russian climate makes testing external ones challenging. The majority of the chimney is located outside the sauna when the pipe is led through the wall, which lowers the furnace’s efficiency and increases fuel consumption.

These drawbacks of external smoke exhaust ducts are eliminated by the use of thermal insulation or specialized sandwich systems.

Because they are installed with one or two turns, chimneys that pass through walls have a non-vertical configuration. This kind of device interferes with the stove’s regular operation by lessening the force of traction inside the pipe. Use larger diameter pipes when installing something by hand to prevent this kind of situation.

Wooden wall

While the installation process through a wooden wall follows the same general guidelines as previously mentioned, there are a few important safety measures to take. A hole is made, the diameter of which should be measured so that there is a minimum of 450 mm between the combustible material and the center pipe—which will be heated to its maximum extent. It is best to use sandwich panels for the outlet to guarantee the highest level of safety. The insulation made of basalt fills the area surrounding the pipe.

It is extremely temperature resistant. The maximum value is 1000ºC. Give the system a damper that it can close in the summer or when not in use. To hold the wool inside, a sheet of stainless steel or galvanized tin is padded both inside and out. In order to ensure fire safety, a gap of 10 cm must be maintained when fixing the pipe to the wall. Spark arrestor installation is a requirement.

• A hole is made, the diameter of which must be calculated so that there is a distance of at least 450 mm from the central pipe, which will be maximally heated, to the combustible material.
• In order to maximize safety, it is best to use sandwich panels for the outlet.
• The space around the pipe is filled with basalt insulation material. It is very resistant to temperature. The highest value reaches 1000ºC.
• Provide for the presence of a gate (damper), which can be closed in the summer or when the system is not used.
• A sheet of galvanized tin or stainless steel is stuffed on the outside and inside, which will hold the wool inside.
• When attaching the pipe to the wall, a gap of 10 cm or more must be maintained to ensure fire safety.
• The installation of spark arrestors will be a prerequisite.

Sandwich-style pipes

You can make provisions for a deflector if you would really rather not worry about the possibility of a strong draught. This unique umbrella, which is mounted atop the chimney, helps to increase the pressure drop. Some choices twist with the wind, causing the smoke to be drawn behind them by the stream.

Chimney of a street wall

This allows the pipe to be removed from both the bathroom and the. Thorough calculations must be done beforehand to ensure that the dimensions and height are not miscalculated. Make no material compromises. After all, the stability of the entire structure could mean the difference between your life and the lives of your loved ones.

Basic rules of chimney installation

The heating apparatus is always the first place to begin wall-mounting a chimney. Studying the advice provided by the boiler or fireplace’s manufacturer is essential to selecting the proper chimney pipe diameter.

In this instance, the following qualities ought to be considered:

• the boiler output affects the diameter of the chimney pipe;
• In addition to a drop in power, a short chimney can cause smoke in the interior of the room;
• At the same time, a long chimney tends to "force" the heating equipment. Thus, the cost of energy carrier will increase significantly, while the efficiency of heating may fall.

Use a special transition or connecting element, such as a pipe, elbow, or tee, to connect the heating device to the chimney.

Let"s look at an example. Let"s assume that the house is already completely ready, and inside there is already a heating boiler. Thus, it is no longer reasonable to install a classic internal chimney – the cost of passage through the floor and roof will be enormous. Therefore, in this situation, the optimal solution will be to lead the chimney through the wall. For this purpose it is enough to build an external chimney, and with the boiler it is connected by a horizontal pipe. It should be remembered that the length of this transition should not exceed 1 meter. Otherwise, the draught in the chimney is significantly reduced. If there is a situation when it is structurally impossible to fulfill this recommendation, it is necessary to compensate the draught by increasing the height of the chimney.

A stainless steel or enameled pipe is used to arrange a single-circuit system. Such a chimney has significantly lower production costs and is very simple to install.

The "pipe in pipe" design of the two-circuit system places thermal insulation between each of its surfaces. Because it doesn’t produce condensation and is better shielded from outside damage, this system is more useful. These characteristics make this system popular for use in the building of wooden homes.

How to make a chimney through the wall

To carry out the work independently, it is necessary to stock the following materials and tools:

• clamps and corners;
• aluminum tape;
• A sealant that is resistant to high temperatures;
• riveter;
• drill and drills;
• bolgar.

Chimney on the outer wall – the main elements

The heating appliance, such as a boiler, stove, or chimney, is the most crucial component since it directly influences the chimney’s primary characteristics. Diverters must be realized in order to control the smoke’s flow. The angle of deviation of the smoke’s direction should be a specified characteristic of connecting elbows.

A tungsten electrode is used to connect the branch’s components to one another. The quantity of components can vary greatly depending on the chimney’s length and design. Inspection windows and flaps are installed at this point in the project. Dampers can be added to branches, pipes, and transitions if desired. It is crucial to keep in mind that the flaps are positioned in this manner to prevent contact with the pipe walls. If not, the damper may jam when exposed to high temperatures.

You will also require a stand for the tee. The chimney pipe is made of stainless steel with a square section. Wall plugs are used to secure the stand to the wall.

In this instance, the space between the wall and the chimney needs to be given extra consideration.

Thermal insulation is used in conjunction with stainless steel tees to mount the chimney outlet through the wall. These components enable the heater to be connected to the chimney.

Tees will be utilized in the future for chimney element revision, cleaning, and condensate drainage.

The side or bottom of the tee has inspection windows or condensate drain pipes installed. After everything is put together, silicone is used to support the window door. The actual tees themselves can be prefabricated, single-piece, or through-tees. They are connected at different angles depending on the type.

Brackets must be used for the chimney to be installed properly. You are able to make them yourself. To achieve this, take

At this point, it’s crucial to accurately measure the distance between the wall and the chimney since it’s necessary to comply with fire regulations.

Thermal insulation needs to be placed on top of the external chimney. Here, the pipe is housed in a unique casing.

Mineral wool, or basalt fiber, can be used as a heat-insulating material. Stainless steel, galvanized steel, or other materials resistant to corrosion are used to make the casing.

Choice of chimney type

The house’s architecture and the characteristics of the heating units that will be connected to the chimney system will dictate the material and design of the chimney. For instance, the flue gases from a coal-fired boiler can reach 700 degrees Celsius, while the flue gases from a pellet boiler rarely reach more than 250 degrees. Obviously, there are much stricter requirements for the chimney of a coal boiler.

Brick chimneys

In older homes, where the furnace and chimney were frequently constructed before the structure itself, brick chimneys are common. Although brick is less common these days, many homeowners still choose it.

The benefits of brick chimneys

• high mechanical strength;
• relative durability;
• attractive appearance.

One drawback of brick chimneys is:

• high weight;
• rectangular cross-section (not ideal from the point of view of draught force);
• rough surface;
• sensitive to strong acids and aggressive chemical compounds;
• complexity of installation and maintenance.

Chimneys were installed using red full-body brick. Lime or cement-lime mortar is used for the interior masonry work. The only cement mortar that works well for laying brick above roof level is waterproof.

Ceramic chimneys

Ceramic chimneys are a great replacement for heavy brick buildings and sheet steel chimneys that don’t last as long. They are extensively utilized in contemporary homes constructed of beams, cylindrical logs, and other wood components.

The benefits of ceramic chimneys

• mechanical strength;
• good draught;
• ease of installation;
• The possibility of installation both inside and outside the building;
• resistance to aggressive compounds;
• resistance to high temperatures (up to 1000 degrees Celsius);
• exceptional durability (manufacturers" warranty for many systems is 30 or more years);
• high-quality thermal insulation.

The latter ought to be discussed independently. The structure of ceramic chimneys is composed of three parts in most cases. Each component consists of a lightweight concrete box, heat-insulating mats, and a section of ceramic pipe with a smooth interior surface. Thus, the concrete outer casing essentially does not heat up even when passing extremely hot fuel gases.

This is crucial for the installation of chimneys in wooden homes.

There is only one drawback to ceramic chimney systems: their high cost.

Metal chimneys

Metal chimneys consisting of one or two components are distinguished from one another.

Simple circular-cross section steel pipes make up single-piece chimneys. Although this is the least expensive option, it has a number of drawbacks:

• low durability;
• high heat loss;
• Impossibility of external installation;
• The need to create complex and expensive thermal insulation.

The latter is particularly crucial when it comes to wooden homes. Literally everywhere that even the smallest amount of heat is possible, thermal insulation is used. This is true for any chimney, but it’s crucial when it comes to thin steel pipes.

The unique thermal insulation layer of a two-component chimney, also known as a steel chimney "sandwich," is situated in between two steel pipes. This is a more costly, long-lasting, and secure choice. Such a chimney can be installed outside as well, saving space by allowing one passage through the wall at the location of the heating unit installation rather than having to go through all the floors and roof.

Advantages and disadvantages

Upon leading the chimney through the wall, certain advantageous features of this design become apparent:

• Saving internal space.
• The possibility of installing a channel even after the completion of the house.
• Installation, installation of such structures is much easier than similar inside structures.
• High fire safety. After all, the inner walls can reach a temperature of more than 1000 degrees, indoors is a huge disadvantage, unlike the street, where such temperatures can be ignored.
• Over time, even the most airtight and high-quality chimneys, begin to leak carbon monoxide, through the formed in the walls of the gaps and cracks.
• In case of any problems with the draught, it is possible to adjust the chimney pipe without damaging and breaking the integrity of the passage places.

Drawbacks pertaining to, among other things, sandwich chimney installation:

• Mandatory insulation (except for the "sandwich").
• External channel, in some cases requires the necessary "piece" of land to be set aside.
• From outdoor systems, heat escapes into the atmosphere, when inside the house you could organize an additional source of heating.
• It is difficult to match the construction to the design of the building.
• With high channel sizes, the fastening system can become a problem, from the large sailability.

When it comes to installing a chimney through a wall for heating and insulation purposes, it"s crucial to ensure safety, efficiency, and proper construction. Proper installation involves careful planning, considering factors like the type of wall, clearance requirements, and materials used. The chimney should be constructed with fire-resistant materials and installed at the correct angle to ensure optimal airflow and smoke dispersion. It"s essential to follow local building codes and regulations to prevent fire hazards and ensure structural integrity. Additionally, regular inspection and maintenance are necessary to keep the chimney functioning safely and efficiently over time. By prioritizing safety and adherence to guidelines, homeowners can enjoy the benefits of a well-functioning chimney while maintaining the integrity of their home"s heating and insulation systems.

How to install the chimney through the roof

The location of the floor joists and rafters on the roof must be considered when leading the chimney from sandwich pipes through the roof. The pipe must be adjusted to pass between these components. As long as the combustible element is shielded from the flames by insulation, the pipe’s outer wall should be at least 13 cm away from the combustible element. It is frequently required to move the pipe in order to meet this requirement. Two 45° angles are used in this process.

Adjusting the pipe so that it can go through the slab of ceiling

Keep in mind that installing a sandwich chimney from a solid fuel boiler begins with an uninsulated metal pipe. It appears black in the image above.

Subsequently, the chimney with insulation already enters the passage unit, and a sandwich adapter is positioned.

If thermal insulation material is going to be used to protect the ceiling, a hole that complies with fire regulations is cut in the ceiling, 250 mm from the edge of the chimney. Its edges are covered with non-combustible thermal insulation material after it has been cut. The best material for this is minerite, either nailed or fastened with wood screws.

Minerite is the gray substance that surrounds the hole’s edge.

Leading the pipe sandwich chimney is the resulting box. It must be pointed precisely vertically, with not even the smallest deviations. It can move up and down without any trouble, but it cannot be fixed firmly. The only way to direct it is to install a few strips that will hold it in place. This is required because when it gets heated, its length greatly expands.

Basalt wool fills the remaining space (verify the temperature range). Pouring expanded clay or granulated foam glass is an additional choice. Sand was also added in the past, but eventually it all seeped through the gaps, making this option unpopular today. All of this "beauty" is hidden from view from the front by a stainless steel sheet, beneath which is positioned a non-combustible substance (between it and the ceiling). Before, they used an asbestos sheet, but since asbestos is known to cause cancer, they switched to cardboard made of mineral wool.

There is an alternative. After using mineral wool to seal the hole’s edges, install a prefabricated stainless steel ceiling-pass assembly. It has the decorative stainless steel screen and the box all at once.

Completed ceiling-pass assembly (a choice)

Create a hole in the roof cake after leading the pipe to the attic. Every film at the waterproofing and vapor barrier points of passage is cut crosswise. Using a stapler, the resultant triangles are wrapped and secured. In this manner, the harm is reduced. Make sure the pipe is at least 13 cm away from the exposed purlins by cutting them.

How to guide the chimney through the roof: the roofing and ceiling passage

The roof passageway in the right photo above is incorrect; there is not enough space between the pipe and the boards. They must be cut in accordance with the specifications and covered with the same minerite. The end product ought to resemble the picture below.

The sandwich chimney’s correct passage through the roof

Additionally, a master flush is applied to the chimney following the installation of the roofing material, and the desired shape is given to the skirt (under the shape of the roofing material).

A flexible "skirt" attached to a rubber cap is the master flash for a sandwich chimney.

Heat-resistant sealant is used to seal the joint where rubber and pipe meet. Additionally, sealant is smeared beneath the "skirt" on the roof’s surface.

A master flashing fitted within the conduit

Keep in mind that a clamp is used to tighten each sandwich module connection. The internal chimney likewise fits this description.

Material selection

Extra sandwich pipe components

Although there are many pre-made options available today for chimney arrangement, some people still choose to take the tried-and-true route and handle everything themselves.

• Brick. A good option if you are making a chimney for a conventional stove or fireplace. The advantage of this material will be the ability to combine it with the overall exterior of the building. Also no insulation is required with proper calculation and installation. If a sufficiently tall structure is required, it will be very large.
• Stainless pipe. It is especially relevant when acidic emissions are possible. In this case, it is better if it will have molybdenum in its composition. The disadvantage will be the need for its good insulation. If this is not done, too much condensation will accumulate, which will worsen the draught.
• Double-circuit or consist of two metal sleeves. One of them is placed inside the other, and the space between them is filled with insulation. They can both be made of stainless steel, or only the inner one, and the outer one is made of galvanized steel. Supplied in blocks, so assembly is not particularly difficult. There are adapters that allow you to connect them to the spigot coming out of the stove or fireplace.
• Ceramic tube. An excellent option that can withstand high temperatures. It also needs insulation. The disadvantage is a fairly high price and fragility of the design.

Features of construction

Even though there is a vast array of materials available for building chimneys, two-circuit steel pipes, also known as "sandwich" pipes, are currently the most common.

The "sandwich" style chimney is built in two layers. There is an insulating material layer between the two metal pipes with varying diameters that acts as both an insulator and an insulator at the same time.

Sandwich pipe chimney seen in a video

Better technical qualities and enhanced fire safety are features of two-circuit design as opposed to single-circuit pipes, which have a steel thickness of 0.5 mm. It is not advised to use single-circuit pipes for chimney installation outside of buildings. They can’t hold on to heat during the cold season because they only have one layer. Such a chimney forms condensate due to the extreme temperature difference, which lessens draft and causes blockages in the pipe.

Configuration of a sandwich pipe with two circuits

Consequently, the best choice for installing a chimney through the wall will be to buy sandwich pipes. Such a two-circuit chimney is very popular because it is less expensive than a brick chimney, looks good, has great technical features, is fire safe, and operates for a long time.

Furthermore, you can install a chimney made of this material with your own hands. Even a beginner will be able to complete the task if they carefully follow our comprehensive instructions, despite the nuances and subtleties.

External chimney choose the method, prepare the elements

There are two ways to achieve passage through the wall: single- and double-circuit.

1. The first in the case of a sandwich construction is irrelevant – it is used if they want to reduce the cost of installation with their own hands by installing a conventional pipe made of enameled steel. Find a video with a detailed explanation of how to properly make such a chimney, you can find on the Internet
2. Two-circuit (aka internal) method – more acceptable version of the output through the wall. in which the main part of the smoke outlet "goes" inside the wall through which the passage is carried out, and the pipe itself is insulated with thermal insulation materials. This is the "sandwich version", quite well protected from mechanical influences, plus in the two-circuit method is necessarily installed gate valve, with its help the owner of the heating boiler and external chimney can regulate the draft .

What needs to be ready before installing a chimney-sandwich by hand?

1. First, pipes, and plus to them – tees, with the help of which you can make a branching of the smoke channel, and then connect the chimney to the furnace of the heater.
2. Secondly, the elbow (without it you can not make a bend to the desired degree).
3. Third, the support bracket (the basis of the design of the external chimney) and clamps (do not forget about the need to fix the structure to the wall through the optimal distance of 60 cm).
4. Fourth, a revision tee, condensate collector and mouth – it will complete the design.

Through-wall passage: from boiler to beyond The external chimney outlet originates internally, from the stove, fireplace, or heating boiler. It is connected to the heating device’s pipe and secured with a plug before continuing through the wall.

Numerous factors determine where the chimney’s exterior exit will be, but the side of the gable is usually the best choice. In the event that the installation can only be completed on the sloping portion of the roof, it is worthwhile to take care of the support post’s preparation. However, measure the roof overhang first. If it is more than 40 cm, the rack is not required. Instead, the pipe can be left through the overhang to act as an extra fixation method when attaching the structure. You must reinforce the snow retarder above the location of the chimney outlet.

The primary steps involved in assembling the external chimney by hand:

• mark the place of outlet, prepare a hole for the outlet pipe;
• fix the spigot in the prepared hole, insulate (you can use foil mineral wool);
• The chimney is connected to the heating apparatus: an elbow in three sections is connected to a tee (a transition element is used).

A tee with a cleaning cup will be needed to reposition the chimney; it will be simple to remove and clean later, even with your hands. A bracket holds the tee with the cup in place.

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Pros and cons of installing an external chimney

Naturally, the wall-mounted chimney is more recognizable to us and does not draw notice from other people. However, it also has drawbacks of its own that more than outweigh those of the external chimney hood.

1. The installation of an attached external chimney significantly increases the fire safety of the premises. After all, everyone knows that over time in the pipe accumulate deposits of soot, which at high heat can burst into flames no worse than gasoline. During its combustion, it generates temperatures that only ceramics can withstand. Therefore, the external chimney is the safest in this regard.
2. Minimize potential smoke. If this type of chimney is properly installed, the part of its outlet channel that is inside the room is negligible, and therefore the probability of exhaust gases getting into the room tends to zero.
3. The possibility of arrangement without disturbing the roofing and installation in the finished building (I know from practice that "to hole" the roof do not want many people).
4. Easily increase the draft by freely choosing the height of the chimney.

The likelihood of strong sailing when climbing to a greater height, the requirement for the proper fastener selection for its dependable fixation, and the potential violation of the building’s overall style are the only drawbacks associated with such a design.

Functionality and features of the design

The ideal chimney length is between five and ten meters. A draft is hampered by an indicator that is less than the minimum value, and a pipe longer than the recommended 10 meters will cause excessive combustion and increase fuel consumption.

Chimney from the street through the wall

Because the internal planes of the chimney are smoother and soot buildup is less noticeable, single-layer steel pipes are becoming more and more popular among consumers, effectively replacing brick equivalents. The chimney’s contemporary design, which consists of two steel pipes nestled inside one another with an insulating layer of rock wool in between, makes installation easier.

Because no negatively acting condensate forms inside and the external surfaces only slightly heat, such a system has demonstrated its viability.

Building a protective box must be taken into consideration when installing the chimney through the wall and then outside the house. Making it out of brick or gypsum board and adding fireproof thermal insulation is advised.

Three-layer chimneys with lightweight concrete outer blocks and a ceramic inner cylindrical tube with a thermal insulation layer on top also exhibit excellent performance.

Choice of chimney

You must choose the kind of chimney device you want to use before inserting the chimney through the wall.

While there are many options available, not all of them are appropriate for installation in a wooden home. Two stand out among the most widely used systems.

1. Single wall chimney systems. They are made of galvanized sheet or stainless steel. Single-wall systems have one significant advantage – affordable price. This option is well suited for inexpensive country houses or dachas. But if you have invested a considerable amount of money in the house, then it is better to abandon this idea, because single-wall steel chimneys are not characterized by a long service life. In addition, it will be necessary to organize a highly effective thermal insulation. In addition to metal pipes, single-wall systems are often made of ceramic and polymer analogs. But their cost is higher.
2. Double-walled chimneys. Double-walled chimneys or sandwich systems are the optimal solution for a wooden house. The peculiarity of the design is low thermal conductivity and multilayer. The device double-walled chimney includes two pipes of different diameters, which are located inside each other, and thermal insulation material that fills the intermediate space between the pipes. Choosing such a device for a private house, buy a mandatory with a connection of the mama-papa type. Designs with a flange connection are available on sale, but they are more suitable for industrial purposes.

Installation tips

Follow these guidelines to ensure proper installation of single- or double-wall chimney systems. The instructions that come with the heating equipment—the chimney that you will be organizing yourself—should serve as your primary source of reference.

1. Make a marking on the wall, oriented on the level of the outlet from the heating boiler or stove.
2. According to the markings in the wall is made a hole in the wall. And its diameter should be one and a half times the diameter of the chimney channel. This is required in order to install a passage cup between the chimney and the wooden wall.
3. The spigot is inserted into the resulting hole. One end of it is mounted on the heating equipment, and the second goes to the tee. Tee – an indispensable thing that allows you to organize effective condensate drainage.
4. In the space between the wall of the wooden house and the spigot, a void is formed, filled with heat-insulating material.
5. A tin casing is mounted on top of the insulation.
6. On the spigot is fixed already a tee, on the outside of which a pipe is installed, directed vertically.
7. If the roof is double-sloped, the pipe must reach the ridge. If the roof is flat, the end of the chimney pipe will rise above it by at least 50 centimeters.
8. Never install the chimney pipe close to the walls of a wooden house. The distance between the elements is at least 20 centimeters. To achieve the necessary distance, use fixing brackets.

Chimney ducts leading through the walls of a wooden house are not difficult to lead through, provided the passage is done skillfully, appropriate quality chimney is used, and effective insulation materials are used. Frequently, they do the installation by hand.

Make sure you read these resources:

• Connecting the furnace to the chimney
• Connection of the boiler with the chimney
• Proterm boilers manual

Basic rules of chimney installation

Benefits consist of the following attributes:

1. – greater space saving inside the dwelling,
2. – probability of installation in an already residential building,
3. – Exclusion of requirements for the provision of floors between floors, as the installation of the chimney is much simpler.

Among the drawbacks are

1. – organization of mandatory thermal insulation of chimney pipes,
2. – The presence of a large horizontal section at the point where the chimney passes through the wall,
3. – such a chimney gives a lot of heat to the outside environment,
4. -often it can not effectively fit into the architectural solution of the building

1. – first you need to understand the rated capacity of the device. usually this indicator depends on the diameter of the chimney pipe,
2. – after that it is necessary to calculate the height of the chimney, which should provide the optimal draught of the heating device. If you choose too small a distance from the exhaust outlet to the end of the chimney, the hearth will not be able to work at full capacity – among other things, a short chimney, improperly selected, will cause smoke in the dwelling,
3. – too long chimney will not be able to provide a long combustion of fuel and, as a consequence, will increase fuel costs, because the strong draft will affect the unnecessary removal of heat into the atmosphere.

CHIMNEY, SINGLE-CIRCUIT, TWO-CIRCUIT

Materials and tools for self-installation of an external chimney

Stove chimney heating

• bolt cutter,
• drill,
• riveting tool,
• heat-resistant sealant,
• aluminum tape,
• clamps and angles for fixing the outlet pipe.

Main elements of the external chimney

What components and parts are needed to install the chimney system outside?

1. – Of course, first of all, it is the hearth itself or heating system in the form of a boiler,
2. – in order to regulate the circulation of flue gases used special plumb bobs, which must have a suitable angle of deflection of the smoke,
3. – tungsten electrode is used for welding the elements of the outlet. Generally, we do not stipulate the number of bends, as each chimney requires a different number of them,
4. – During the installation of the chimney in the tees, bends, pipes and transitions are also installed viewing windows and flaps. These elements are used as desired by the owners of the hearths,
5. – flaps must be installed so that they do not have contact with the material of the pipes, because when expanding under the influence of high temperatures, the flap can jam,
6. – among other things, you may need a stand for the tee, which can be made of square stainless steel pipe. Dowels are used for fixing the stand. The stand should be carried out following the requirements. Thus, the necessary distance between the chimney and the wall of the house must be observed,
7. – The chimney outlet through the wall of the house is created with the help of special insulated tees made of stainless steel. Such tees are used to connect the heating device to the chimney. Subsequently, during the operation of the hearth, the tees will be designed for cleaning, revision and condensate drainage,
8. – If you explain in more detail the design of the chimney system elements, such as condensate drainage pipes and windows for revision, it should be mentioned separately about their installation. Usually these components are mounted either at the bottom of the tee, or on the side of the tee. After complete assembly of the equipment in accordance with the requirements of fire safety, the door of the viewing window should be fixed on special silicone. Since the variants of tees can be very diverse, then their connection should be made at different angles,
9. – execution of the chimney system is carried out with the help of brackets. Such a device can be made by yourself, for which they use stainless steel pipes. During installation, it is necessary to comply with the norms and requirements specified in special sections of the relevant documents. Particular attention should be paid to the calculation of the distance from the chimney to the wall of the house, – since during the operation of the heating device may occur condensation, the outer layer requires quality thermal insulation. Thus, the chimney is placed in a special protective casing. As a material for insulating the device, basalt fiber is used. The casing is made of galvanized steel, stainless steel or other materials,
10. – In some cases, carrying an external chimney through the wall of the house requires the use of additional reinforcements, they will help to organize the passage cup, and also in order for the device to be able to withstand loads.

Basic installation steps

When installing your chimney through the wall, it’s crucial to keep in mind the crucial guidelines and phases of the process. In order to complete everything correctly and without forgetting anything, the sequence must be followed. Put in the chimney in the following stages:

• Check if there are no communications in the places of passage through the wall.
• Make a marking, and prepare the required diameter of the hole.
• Install the "spigot", which is carefully sealed and heat insulated from the wall with a special fire-resistant material. A special cover can be installed on top.
• The pipe is connected to the boiler, stove with the help of a three-end "elbow". The bottom part is obligatory, with the help of this outlet it will be possible to clean it.
• The outer section of the second "elbow" behind the wall, you need to fix, it is important to remember that the horizontal planes should not exceed one meter.
• Next is the installation of the vertical part. Pay attention to fastening, use only quality fasteners.

An illustration of the chimney

Once the vertical section is fully constructed, you will need to learn how to install the header, also known as the cone-shaped cover, which will help to improve the draught and keep the channel clear of blockages. You will need to insulate the area between the pipe and the wall as well, depending on the kind of channel.

Fire protection first of all

Boiler or stove—it makes no difference

Furthermore, in general, it doesn’t matter how your chimney operates or what kind of material it is made of! The most crucial factor is your room’s thermal protection, as a stove or boiler can cost up to $1000 or more, while the building as a whole may cost up to $20,000. Thus, the most important thing is to comprehend what thermal protection is and how to secure the structure.

How to guarantee that the pipe passage through the outer wall does not present a fire risk is the trickiest question.

An excellent material for insulating the area where the pipe passage is located is claydite.

Where we plan to put the chimney, it is necessary to cut a wide enough (at least 25 cm from the pipe) wooden hole in the wall, which is closed on both sides with a special metal flange. It looks neat both outside and inside, and weighs very little, because the metal sheet is not thick at all. Connecting the transition with the chimney hole from the boiler side (from the inside), we fix the metal flange from the room side, and then the part that remains between the inner and outer flange we stuff with non-combustible material. The best are considered to be stuffed with basalt wool or expanded clay. Then close the construction with a flange from the outside and mount the chimney on the street. The protective sleeve must be attached very securely, with self-tapping screws or anchors, all around the perimeter.

There are two types of pipe penetrators on the markets – round and square. And many people are interested in what is the difference between them. Except for their shape – absolutely nothing. Under any passage node you will need to saw out the same square, that in the wall, that in the ceiling. And inside the box you will have a chimney. The space is stuffed with mineral wool, expanded clay, basalt fiber or other fireproof materials, but not brick, and even more so – not sand. You may have seen how coffee is made in sand tourniquets. So it can get so hot that water is boiled on it, and this is not the limit.

Types of chimneys and their features

Chimneys in saunas and homes, particularly those made of wood, need to be constructed from a variety of fire-resistant materials. Brick chimneys are long-lasting, aesthetically pleasing, and resistant to high temperatures, but their porous and heterogeneous structure also makes it easier for moisture to collect and combustion products like soot to settle. This leads to the overgrowth of the stove pipe’s lumen, deterioration of the draught, and unsafe stove operation. Brick chimneys should not be used in systems for removing smoke from solid fuel boilers, such as pellet boilers with closed combustion chambers.

It is not advisable to use black metal pipes when installing a gas or solid fuel boiler, or in wooden houses or bathtubs, as they can catch fire due to their high heat and rapid burning. Chimneys made of this type are occasionally placed in utility rooms and brick garages, but even in those cases, they are useless because condensate formation and corrosion can cause problems with them.

Sandwich chimneys with insulation composed of ceramic and stainless steel have proven to be the most effective solution. Pipes with a round cross-section allow smoke to pass through and create a strong draft. Less soot collects on the inner, smooth surface. Insulation keeps condensation from happening. They are simple to install yourself with the help of the modular system. Sandwich chimneys composed of ceramic and stainless steel differ slightly structurally.

A hollow foam block and an interior ceramic chimney element make up each module of the ceramic sandwich chimney system. They are separated by a layer of insulation made of basalt for thermal reasons. The modules are delivered disassembled, and special glue and sealant are used during on-site assembly. Because ceramic chimneys are heavy, a foundation must be installed before they can be installed.

Stainless steel sandwich chimneys are offered for sale as pre-assembled modules. These are two pipes with varying diameters that are nestled inside one another and have an insulation layer between them. The outer pipe can be made of galvanized tinplate or stainless steel, while the inner pipe is made of stainless steel. Compared to ceramic ones, they assemble considerably more quickly. Additionally, a stainless steel chimney doesn’t require a foundation because of its low weight.

Ceramic chimneys are the most fire resistant of all; they can endure temperatures as high as 1200 degrees Celsius for extended periods of time, and some models come with ventilation systems. These chimneys have a minimum service life of fifty years. However, because ceramic chimneys are expensive, only residential homes, cottages, and other capital buildings should install them.

Brick chimney in a wooden house

Fireproof brick is typically used to construct chimneys in wooden homes.

Particular attention must be paid to the dressing of bricks between one another when laying chimneys. A cement and limestone mixture can be used to join the brick chimney’s components inside the home, but pure cement mortar is required when laying bricks in the chimney’s open area.

In this type of masonry, the seam between the bricks shouldn’t be thicker than one centimeter. Red bricks, not hollow ones, are what you want.

Condensate, one of the combustion products, has an aggressive effect on the inner surface of the brick chimney. On internal surfaces, this can lead to chipping and collapse. Concrete mortar is used to fill the space between the brick and the asbestos cement pipe inside the brick chimney to prevent such unfavorable moments. You will complete the chimney’s "sleeving" in this manner.

Passing the chimney through the wooden ceiling

The article’s picture illustrates how to lead the chimney through a wood ceiling.

Asbestos interlayers can be used to pass through flooring. In this instance, there will be a 25-centimeter gap between the floor wood and the chimney.

The space between the pipe and the wood must be increased to 38 centimeters if the asbestos gasket is not used.

Chimney flues adjoining timber walls

In addition to going through the ceiling and next to wooden walls, the chimney pipes need to be dependable insulated.

Attaching the wooden wall to the chimney

Similar to passing through the ceiling, the standard distances here are 25 centimeters for two layers of asbestos lining and 38 centimeters without lining.

The wall’s sides can be bricked throughout the entire structure.

It is preferable to mount a chimney on a movable wooden panel that is relative to the wall when building one in a newly constructed, unsettling log cabin. In this instance, the chimney’s brickwork and chimney pipe won’t be destroyed by the log cabin sagging over time.

Passage of the chimney through the roof of a wooden house

The space between the chimney’s heating components and the rafters, if it is led through the roof, must be at least 13 centimeters. A heat insulator must be installed in the space between the rafters’ wood and the chimney. Wool made of basalt can be utilized as insulation. Make sure the wool you choose for thermal insulation is resistant to high temperatures and doesn’t contain any organic binders.

Chimney exit via the rooftop

A minimum of 25 centimeters should separate you and any low-ignition-threshold roofing materials, like sheet felt, from the roof. It is required to use non-combustible roofing to cover the area between the combustible material and the chimney pipe. One such protective substance is slate. The roofing felt won’t receive heat from the chimney. Steel for roofing has additional uses as a covering for protection.

Location of the chimney on the roof of a wooden building

If the chimney on a wooden building is situated directly next to a ridge or even on a flat roof, its head must rise above it to a minimum of 20 centimeters from the top of the ridge.

The chimney pipe’s height should not be less than 50 centimeters if it is less than 1.5 meters from the ridge.

The headband of the chimney pipe should not be below the level of the ridge if it is positioned 1.5–3 meters away from the conk.

Height of the chimney above the roof

If your chimney is more than three meters from the ridge, you will need to draw an imaginary line that descends 10 degrees from the roof’s ridge in order to determine the height of the chimney cap.

One of the most important steps in guaranteeing the effectiveness and safety of your home heating system is leading a chimney through the wall. You can avoid possible risks like fire or carbon monoxide leaks by installing and sealing the chimney penetration correctly.

A few things to keep in mind when leading a chimney through a wall are the kind of chimney, the materials you’ll be using, and any applicable building codes. A successful installation will be aided by the selection of appropriate materials and the appropriate placement for the penetration.

Your home’s energy efficiency depends on having adequate insulation around the chimney penetration. Particularly in colder climates, insulating the space between the chimney and the wall ensures that the chimney functions as efficiently as possible and helps prevent heat loss.

To guarantee continued performance and safety, the chimney and the surrounding structure need to undergo routine maintenance and inspections. Noticing any damage or deterioration early on and taking quick action to fix it can avert bigger problems later on.

To sum up, leading a chimney through a wall necessitates thorough planning, correct installation, and continuous upkeep. You can make sure your home heating system runs effectively and safely for many years to come by adhering to safety regulations and best practices.

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