How to install an electric boiler yourself

A cozy living area requires making sure your house is warm and cozy during the winter. Having an effective heating system in place is essential to achieving this. Electric boilers are becoming more and more popular due to their simplicity and ease of installation, even though traditional boilers have been around for a while. With the help of this guide, you will be able to install an electric boiler on your own and take charge of the heating system in your house.

It’s important to comprehend what an electric boiler is and how it operates before beginning the installation process. Electric boilers use electricity to heat water, which is then circulated through the central heating system to warm your home, in contrast to gas or oil boilers, which rely on burning fuel to produce heat. Because of this, they are a potentially more sustainable and cleaner option, particularly if you get your electricity from renewable sources.

Electric boilers are ideal for a variety of properties, including apartments and smaller homes, due to their small size and lack of flues or vents. This is one of their main advantages. Furthermore, because electric boilers don’t produce carbon monoxide or need to be burned, they are frequently thought to be safer than gas boilers because there is a lower chance of gas leaks or explosions.

Getting all the tools and supplies needed is crucial before starting the installation process. This usually includes specific parts like pipes, fittings, and valves needed to connect the boiler to your current heating system, in addition to standard hand tools like wrenches, screwdrivers, and pipe cutters. Having everything ready in advance will help to expedite the installation process and reduce downtime.

In our guide on how to install an electric boiler yourself, we break down the process into simple steps anyone can follow. First off, safety is key – make sure to turn off all power before you start. Then, it"s about choosing the right location for your boiler, ensuring it"s close to both the electrical supply and your water system. Next, you"ll need to mount the boiler securely and connect it to your water pipes. Don"t forget to add a pressure relief valve to keep things safe. Once everything"s hooked up, it"s time to test your boiler and make any necessary adjustments. Finally, double-check your work and ensure everything meets safety standards before switching the power back on. With our easy-to-follow instructions, you"ll have your electric boiler up and running efficiently in no time.

Choosing a boiler – how many liters will be needed

We chose to address this subject because the water heater’s output is dependent on the house’s regular hot water supply (abbreviated DHW). Purchasing a tank with a big capacity is likewise useless:

• The heating time to a comfortable temperature increases;
• the price of the equipment increases;
• The installation of a storage water heater is complicated due to the large weight of the device + a decent volume of water.

Advice: If the heater is only going to be used for dishwashing, it would be best to purchase a low-power electric flow-through model that can be installed under the kitchen sink or in place of a faucet. Read about how to pick the best electric water heater for your dacha in a different article.

The storage tank’s capacity is chosen based on how much mixed (warm) water each resident uses each day (20 liters for hygienic needs and an additional 12 liters for household needs). Boiler for the final number of liters required:

• 50 liters is enough for a family of 2 people for economical consumption, and 80 liters for comfortable consumption;
• 3 persons. – 80…100 л;
• 4 family members – 100…120 liters;
• 5 or more tenants actively using hot water – 120…150 liters.

Briefly about the principle of operation of the accumulator

It is essential to understand the device and its working principle in order to install and connect the water heater to the engineering networks correctly. This is how the system is configured and how it works:

1. The main tank – stainless or enameled steel – is filled with cold water through a pipe coming out of the lower zone of the tank.
2. When filled, the air is completely displaced into the DHW system through the hot water intake tube located in the upper zone of the tank.
3. After the boiler is turned on, the water is heated by a tubular electric heater (abbreviated as TEN) built into the bottom of the tank.
4. On the same site with the TEN is installed block of automation – immersion temperature sensor and thermostat. When the temperature of the tank reaches a preset threshold, the automation de-energizes the TEN. After the water has cooled down by 3-5 °C, the thermostat starts heating again.
5. A boiler safety group is installed at the water supply inlet. The part consists of a safety and check valve, functions – to relieve excess pressure from the expansion of the heated liquid and not to let the water escape from the tank back into the pipe.
6. Near the heating element is located magnesium anode, protecting the metal of the tank from electrochemical corrosion. Outside the tank is insulated with a layer of polyurethane, then closed with a decorative casing, as shown in the diagram in sectional view.

Citation. Depending on the tank’s volume, the heating element’s capacity ranges from 1.5 to 3 kW. A couple of the flat storage boiler models come with two electric heaters.

Boilers of the vertical and horizontal types have the same mechanism: the supply pipe is at the bottom and the intake pipe is at the top. The primary issue with maintaining any storage water heater stems from this: draining the water through the faucet is not feasible. The piping scheme, which we will address below, determines how the problem is resolved in various ways.

Instructions for installing the water heater

Choose the boiler’s location before installation, or even better, when making the purchase. No limitations: the device can be installed in a country house’s basement or attic. While these variations are not prohibited, we advise adhering to the following guidelines:

1. The best option for an apartment – to fix the horizontal device above the bathtub. In case of an accident, you will not flood your neighbors. Do not hang a vertical model of water heater here, you may hit your head on the tank during washing.
2. Another place in the apartment is the toilet, the boiler is placed in the niche above the toilet bowl. Positive point – saving space, minus – inconvenience of maintenance. If there is a leak, you risk flooding your neighbors, you need to waterproof the floor.
3. In a private cottage, the heater can be placed in any non-residential room. The main condition – close to water consumption points, so that when opening the faucet you do not have to drain a lot of cooled water from the pipes. Suitable rooms: kitchen, bathroom, laundry room or boiler room.
4. Ensure access for servicing the appliance. Leave at least 50 cm of free space on the side of the spigots (bottom or side), so that it is possible to connect a hose, to put a bucket, to remove a magnesium rod or a heating element in the process of repair.
5. Make 50…100 mm clearances from the water heater to the nearest walls and ceiling. The reason: dust accumulates on the casing (especially at the top) and has to be wiped off somehow.

Ideas to ponder. The manufacturer of Termex (Termex) water heaters states in their passport that the user will be responsible for paying for warranty service if they choose to install the device in an area that is difficult to access. The heater is disassembled independently or at your own cost in the event that it needs to be replaced.

The water heater’s horizontal model cannot be positioned vertically, and vice versa. Although there are universal models that can operate in both positions, moving the water heater is rarely necessary in real life. Unless the water heater needs to be relocated or replaced.

The most un-Chinese water heaters are frequently referred to as French Atlantic models. The rationale is that Atlantic owns numerous production facilities across the globe. Not so in China, though. Most significantly, no Chinese designs are used by Atlantic; instead, European engineers design every boiler in France.

The newest "dry" steatite heating element used in Atlantic water heaters is a product of the company’s exclusive patent development. Whereas traditional "wet" TENs need to be replaced every two to three years, statite Atlantic TENs can last up to 20 years.

A service for an Atlantic water heater should be performed every two years. That is equivalent to half as often as traditional "wet" heating elements found in traditional "Made in China" water heaters. In addition, compared to a boiler with a "wet" heating element, the overall cost of maintenance for the Atlantic water heater will be three times less during operation.

The tank is virtually free of scaling and corrosion in the Atlantic because of the enamel with titanium dioxide, magnesium anode, and larger bulb area. Atlantic heaters operate extremely silently as a result.

Furthermore, compared to other water heaters, Atlantic water heaters consume 20% less energy.

Consequently, out of all the water heaters available for purchase in Russia, this one is the quietest, most cost-effective, and least maintenance-intensive.

The maximum warranty offered by Atlantic is eight years; typically, boiler manufacturers only offer warranties of five years.

Methods of fixing to the wall

The heavy weight of storage units is one of their drawbacks. For instance, the 50-liter wall-mounted Ariston tank weighs 18 kg dry and nearly 70 kg gross. A 100-liter water heater weighs 30 kg net, with a possible 130 kg total weight.

It is necessary to mount the bulky boiler tanks on separate walls:

• Atlantic heaters are made of dense materials – concrete, bricks, wooden beams, logs;
• of porous building materials – aerated concrete, foam blocks;
• framed partitions, plasterboard, OSB plywood.

With the aid of spacer anchors fitted with nuts, you can install the water heater on the concrete wall by hand. The method is straightforward: we drill holes, mark the fixing locations on the standard tank bracket, insert anchor bolts, and tighten the boiler with nuts. Both the hole’s depth and the fasteners’ overall length must be at least 7 cm.

Note: You can mount small units of 30–50 liters on plastic dowels and hooks (or bolts) with a single hanging bracket. Water heaters with two brackets cannot be suspended from hooks because it is impossible to determine where the holes will be precisely so that the weight is evenly distributed across four points.

The process is even easier in log and log houses: a bolt or hook with an Ø of 8 to 10 mm is screwed into a hole that has been prepared with the same diameter. These techniques are applied to hang the boiler on porous bricks or aerated concrete:

1. Lightweight 30-50 liter water heaters can be attached using plastic dowels designed for foam concrete (shown in the photo below).
2. Heavy tanks over 80 liters are suspended on special metal dowels, where bolts with ordinary metric threads are screwed in.
3. In materials with large pores and air spaces (e.g. ceramic blocks), chemical anchors will hold the boiler in place.
4. If the unit is placed in a boiler room or other utility room where appearance does not play a role, a round support made of a strip and 2 steel pipes is welded together. The tank is fixed to the wall with simple dowels.

The hardest part of installing a water heater on a plasterboard structure is when the walls of the bathroom are already tiled, particularly after the apartment has been repaired. While 12.5 mm thick GKL sheets are strong enough to support heavy objects, the boiler should not be installed directly on plasterboard as the fasteners could snap off at any time.

What methods do experts employ when mounting a water heater on a drywall foundation?

1. The most reliable way is to apply embedded parts made of wood. The beam is inserted inside the 2 vertical profiles of the frame, between them at the required height is placed a horizontal lintel – a wooden board 30…50 mm thick. The boiler is screwed to the wall after cladding.
2. We cover the finished plasterboard finish with an additional sheet of gypsum board on the section of the wall where we plan to hang the water heater. For fastening to the two-layer construction we use a dowel "Hartmut" from the brand Knauff, withstanding a load of 50 kg in 1 point.
3. We make a metal plate with hooks for the boiler, screw it to the profiles of the frame in 6-8 points. If wooden tabs have not been installed, the unit over 50 liters must not be attached to the profiles.
4. Folding metal molly anchors can be used on a tiled wall. Here it is important to clearly select the length of the fastening element, as the master does in the video:

Connecting the boiler to the water supply – 2 proven schemes

Water heater manufacturers advise connecting their products in a straight line to the water supply system’s pipes. That is, the safety valve and the cold water connection are separated by no fittings at all. How to assemble the boiler strapping as recommended:

1. Hang the unit on the wall in the desired position. Screw the safety group directly to the cold water connection, of course, seal the thread with linen or thread (FUM-tape is not the best option).
2. Install a ½" diameter shut-off ball valve (DN15) in front of the valve.
3. To the thread of the faucet and the hot water connection you connect the pipes. The joints are split – it is necessary to use fittings with coupling nut (American fittings). It is allowed to use flexible lines – ready-made hoses with a braid.
4. Put a flexible tube on the outlet of the discharge valve, put the end into the sewer, or better – in a transparent plastic bottle. Then you will be able to timely notice the failure of the element or problems with pressure in the system.
5. To check the tightness of the joints, fill the container – open the hot tap on the faucet and water pipe. Wait until the water flows out of the faucet.

To be clear. When plumbing a horizontally positioned water heater (with side connections), the inlet connection is first fitted with a 90° elbow, followed by the valve. The element’s drain spout ought to face downward.

The plan’s drawback is how hard it is to empty the tank because you have to unscrew the pipes in order to drain it. It is worthwhile to use the strapping with a drain cock, as seen in the picture below, if the boiler is installed in a country house or in a country house with intermittent heating.

A tee with a side valve that allows for rapid tank emptying appears between the check valve and the fitting. In one scenario, a cut-off valve is installed on the hot line when the heater is linked to the centralized DHW system’s pipes.

Advice: When connecting an appliance to the water supply, avoid using flexible hoses and instead approach the fittings using pipes made of polypropylene PPR or metal-plastic PEX-AL-PEX. Short-lived lines begin to leak in the middle of the night as the network’s pressure reaches its peak.

How to supply power

A high-power domestic electrical appliance is an accumulation boiler. Supplying the appliance requires a different cable line that emerges from the common distribution board. How to properly connect an apartment or private home’s power supply to the water heater:

1. To supply voltage from the switchboard to the water heater, use a three-core copper cable of the VVG type. Cross-section of wires should be selected according to the power of the unit, using the table below.
2. To protect the supply line, install a two-pole differential circuit breaker with a 30 mA tripping current as shown in the diagram.
3. Connecting the grounding conductor – a mandatory requirement of safety regulations.
4. To connect the wires to the contacts of the heating element, remove the protective plastic cover (usually held on 2-3 self-tapping screws).
5. It is not necessary to install a socket for the water heater. But if the appliance is fitted with a factory plug, the socket can be neatly placed on the side of the tank.

Important point. Installing the socket right underneath the water heater puts it at risk of flooding in the event of an accident. The video shows the entire tying and connecting of the storage tank process:

A practical solution for efficiently and comfortably heating your house is to install an electric boiler. You can do this project on your own if you take the required safety precautions and follow the required procedures. To guarantee correct installation, it is essential to possess a solid understanding of plumbing and electrical systems.

It’s crucial to determine whether an electric boiler is the best option for your needs before beginning the installation process. Take into account elements like your home’s size, insulation quality, and preferred heating system. Making an educated choice can be aided by expert advice or in-depth investigation.

The secret to a successful installation is meticulous planning. First, decide where the boiler should go; it should be near the power source and the central heating system. Make sure the space satisfies any local building codes or regulations and has adequate ventilation. Additionally, before beginning the installation process, gather all required tools and equipment.

Safety should always come first during the installation process. As you work, make sure the area’s power supply is turned off, and take safety measures to prevent electrical hazards. Never be afraid to ask an experienced heating engineer or electrician for help if you’re not sure you can handle the task.

It’s crucial to give the boiler a thorough test after installation to make sure it’s operating properly. Make any required adjustments and look for any leaks or malfunctions. To guarantee effective and secure use, become acquainted with the boiler’s controls and functioning as well.

In conclusion, installing an electric boiler yourself can be a satisfying undertaking that will give your house a dependable heating system. It does, however, necessitate thorough planning, close attention to detail, and a solid grasp of plumbing and electrical systems. You can successfully install an electric boiler and take advantage of its benefits for many years to come by following the right procedures and safety measures.

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