How to install air conditioning yourself

Having air conditioning installed in your house can make a big difference, particularly in the sweltering summer months. You’re in the right place if you’ve made the decision to work on this project alone. Even though it could seem overwhelming at first, you can complete the task without hiring a professional if you have the correct resources, direction, and a little perseverance. You’ll quickly have a cool and cozy home thanks to this step-by-step guide, which will take you through the entire process.

Knowing what kind of air conditioning system you’re working with is essential before you start. Are you setting up a split system that is more sophisticated, a window unit, or a portable air conditioner? Understanding the type you’re dealing with is essential, as each one calls for a distinct strategy. After you’ve worked that out, it’s time to gather your supplies and get going.

When installing any kind of air conditioning, safety comes first. Make sure you possess the required safety equipment, such as gloves and goggles, and are knowledgeable about the fundamentals of electrical safety. Having a friend or family member nearby can also be beneficial when it comes to emergencies or helping to lift heavy components. Now that safety measures have been taken, you can begin the installation process.

We’ll go over every step in the following steps, from picking the ideal spot to mounting the device and connecting it to the electrical system in your house. You’ll have a thorough understanding of how to install an air conditioner by the end of this guide, so you can enjoy a cool, comfortable space on those hot summer days. Now let’s get going!

If you"re considering installing air conditioning yourself, it"s crucial to understand a few key steps to ensure a smooth process. First, choose the right location for the indoor and outdoor units, aiming for a place with good airflow and minimal obstructions. Make sure you have the necessary tools, including a drill, a level, and a wrench. Begin by mounting the indoor unit, taking care to align it properly, then run the refrigerant lines and electrical connections to the outdoor unit. Follow the manufacturer"s instructions for wiring and ensure all connections are secure. Finally, test the system to confirm everything is working correctly. If at any point you feel uncertain or encounter complex issues, it"s best to consult a professional to ensure safety and proper installation.

Installation tools and materials

The split system’s working principle is explained in detail on the other page of our resource, so we won’t reveal it here. To put it simply, the refrigerant (freon), in both liquid and gaseous states, travels through the pipelines between the two heat exchangers (internal and external), transferring thermal energy to the house or to the street, depending on the chosen regime (heating or conditioning).

Installers are responsible for placing and fixing the blocks in accordance with all guidelines, assembling them with pipes and connecting them to the mains, and, finally, starting and inspecting the units.

Additionally, it makes no sense to include every screwdriver and key on the list; a skilled owner should have similar tools on hand. Only the tools and equipment necessary to install and operate the air conditioner will be considered:

• a perforator with a diamond drill or crown drill (depends on the walls of the walls) with a diameter of at least 45 mm;
• Vacuum pump;
• Manometric collector.

Note: If work is done on the apartment while it is being repaired, then a grinder with a circle on concrete should be added to this list. It will be useful for the covert installation of highways in the wall’s grooves (also known as stroobes).

Refrigerator experts installing climate control equipment will ask right away: where is the setup for rallying and cutting copper pipes with a scabbard for stripping (Rimer)? The response is straightforward: a novice for a split system installation done once, up to a 3 kW capacity. These gadgets are not required. Purchasing a pre-made installation kit that comes with all the components needed is simpler.

• 2 copper tubes of custom -made length with a diameter of 6.35 mm (¼ ”) and 9.52 mm (3/8 ”) with correctly broken ends and worn nuts;
• rubber insulation type K-Flex (already stretched on the highways);
• corrugated hose for drainage;
• Electric cable for 4 or 5 cores with a cross section from 1.5 mm²;
• Broke for fastening the outer unit.

Why is it preferable to install the apartment’s air conditioner using the set? First off, the price is about the same as what would be paid for individual roller devices and materials. Second, a dependable connection is facilitated by the highway ends being cut by a machine rather than by hand. The majority of unskilled masters make the poor-quality manual collapse mistake, which causes freon leaks and compressor failure.

Note: You may need to purchase mounting foam, visors, winding PVC tape, plastic cable channels, and mounting foam depending on the requirements for installing communications.

About economic expediency

In order to make an accurate comparison, we use the installation cost of a 3.5 kW (7000–9000 BTU) household split system. This includes installing and connecting the internal and external modules along with a tourniquet harness (two highways, cable, and drainage) that can extend up to five meters through the wall. All related materials mentioned above are included in the price.

Low-power residential air conditioner installation in Moscow ranges from 5500 to 8000 rubles, or 98-143 USD. Although the price may vary somewhat in other Federation cities, the proportions remain the same. The following is a list of typical costs in Moscow for buying supplies and renting equipment for a DIY installation:

• Makita perforator – about 500 rubles. per day;
• a two -stage vacuum pump along with a manometric manifold – 700 rubles per day;
• Installation kit with communications 5 m long – 2500 rubles.

As a point of reference. Regarding these units, a deposit of 4–8 thousand rubles is frequently needed when renting equipment. Individuals who wish to stack copper pipelines independently can hire instruments for between 300 and 500 R per day.

After adding the designated sums, we obtain 3700 rubles, or 66. e. Adding 10% to the cost of consumables and unforeseen expenses results in roughly 4,000 rubles (71 from. e.). This indicates that installing an air conditioner on your own can result in savings of anywhere between 1,500 and 4,000 rubles. Generally speaking, the lowest price listed online does not reflect the actual cost because you will still need to pay extra for portions of the work that are not included.

Thus, the bottom line: Split system self-installation is a cost-effective way to save 2500–3500 r on low-power units. or 45–62. e. One requirement is that work must be completed quickly; otherwise, the cost of repairs or changes will make you recall the adage "the stingy pays twice."

Note: Prices in rubles are subject to change based on seasonality and the exchange rate. They were recorded for the period of March through April 2017.

How to install a cooler – instruction

The split system is installed in phases:

1. Determine the places where to hang an external and internal block. Mark the track for laying a touring tour.
2. Drill the wall through and pave the highways. Fix the internal module and connect the freon tubes, wiring and drainage to it.
3. Put the outer unit, connect all the communications to it.
4. Perform start -up work.

It is crucial to follow precisely this series of actions. The inner module’s supporting plate cannot be mounted before the tourniquet hole is drilled. This is because drilling may accidentally hit the reinforcement, causing the tool to move or lift. The track will appear awkward in the first scenario, and the plate will need to be rearranged above if you are unable to meet the pipeline bias requirements.

Provide suggestions right away for the optimal arrangement of the device and its units:

1. The internal block of the air conditioner must be hung so that the air flow does not blow you directly, otherwise the cold is provided. The optimal location is right on the outer wall or on the side partition near the window.
2. The minimum distance from the ceiling to the climate unit is 100 mm, but it is better to retreat 30 cm. Between the body and the side wall you need a minimum clearance of 125 mm to have enough space for curtains.
3. The external module should be installed so that it can be safely maintained at a height. The most convenient place is on the wall within the unhealthy loggia or balcony. In their absence, the block must be placed under the window so that the master can reach the service ports and to all parts of the device – compressor, heat exchanger and so on.
4. The distance from the building structures to the posterior wall of the external module is 20 cm, to the sidewall – 300 mm, as shown in the diagram.
5. According to the rules, the highways are laid with a slope towards the street. There should not be stagnant sections in the form of loops facing or down the way.

Suggestions. It is incorrect to place the street module on the wall next to the window. The unit must be completely dismantled in order to disassemble it, even though you can access the service ports. The master who showed up to fix the compressor has every right to decline to undertake more risky work (at altitude).

We mount the inner block

Initially, we suggest that you open the product, read the operating instructions, and examine it thoroughly. In actuality, the technical passport’s scheme precisely outlines how to install and connect a split system of this specific model. Without delay, remove the wall plate from the body. Moreover, the process is as follows:

1. Drill through the outer wall so that the channel goes with a slope towards the street. The optimal diameter of the hole is 50 mm. It is very desirable to put a special plastic sleeve in it.
2. Unpack the installation kit and immediately wrap the ends of the freon tubes so that dust and moisture do not get into them. Combine the second ends with the communications embedded in the niche on the back wall of the room module.
3. Clean the ends of the electric cable, get it through the rear open opening of the case and connect it to the terminals, sketching a small scheme on paper in order to remember the colors.
4. Form a tourniquet from the highways and cable, as shown below on the diagram, and then thoroughly wrap the PVC tape from PVC. Do not twist pipelines among yourself!
5. Now accurately place the mounting plate of the block and attach it to the septum with dowels, strictly observing the horizontal.
6. Together with the assistant, stick in the hole in the hole, while installing an internal module on the plate (it is fixed on the latches).

Suggestions. If you choose to install the split while repairing the house, it is preferable to lay inter-block communications covertly by slicing through the tracks. Additionally, handle the power supply cable. Here’s how to do it yourself, as demonstrated in the video:

What you need to know to successfully install and connect communications within buildings. First, as opposed to what is shown in the picture, when twisting highways for the refrigerant, turn the unit nut while gripping the retaliatory part with the key. If not, you will need to solder the factory tube after you "turn your head" toward it. Additionally, avoid using excessive force when tightening the nut to avoid squeezing the roller, which is why freon leaks will eventually occur.

The second nuance is to firmly secure the plate in place; a mounted bath for condensate has already been created with the appropriate slope. Finally, avoid looking unsightly by not sticking a power cable into a socket. Subtly disable a different line by using your automatic circuit breaker.

We suggest you watch the installation video, which was captured by a skilled technician, as the article a priori is unable to include all the details and runs the risk of becoming a narrative:

Put the outer module

It’s crucial to exercise caution and have insurance when installing the air conditioner’s street unit in the apartment. When working with fasteners, ask your helper to hold you behind the belt; alternatively, wear safety gear. The installation technology is straightforward and appears as follows:

1. Using the building level, outline on the wall of the drilling point and perform holes for anchors.
2. Insert the fasteners of the external unit with the heads down into the brackets, calculating its position on the site. Fix them with special plastic washers so that they do not fall out.
3. Set the brackets by fixing them with anchors. Put an external module on them, combining holes with bolts. Using the union key with the extension cord, make fasteners and tighten them.
4. Suite the communication unit – fasten the tubes to the ports, and attach the cable to the terminals.

Suggestions. It’s important to take your time mounting the visor since doing so will stop you from using service ports during the launch. The video illustrates the process of installing the split system’s outer component.

The final stage is the launch of the system

The freon found in the outer block is used to refuel all of the plant’s new air conditioners. It is your responsibility to begin the split system and fill in the entire contour without losing any. Here is the work procedure:

1. Connect the extreme hose of the manometric manifold to the spool of the service port on the gas side (a larger diameter tube is suitable for it). Connect the middle hose to the vacuum pump. In this case, all taps should be closed.
2. Turn on the pump unit and open the collector valves. During the first 10-20 seconds of work, struggle the air through the fitting provided on the pump.
3. Vacuum the system for at least 20 minutes if the length of the track does not exceed 5 m. The goal is to completely remove moisture from the contour and pump out air, which will inform you about the manometer on the manifold (it will show the pressure minus 1 bar).
4. After half an hour, redraw the valve and stop the vacuum, then wait for at least 20 minutes, watching the arrow of the manometer. If it begins to climb to zero, then your system is indefatigable and needs to be altered.
5. Hide the key to the service port on the liquid side with a hexagonal key, and then on the gas, thereby filling the contour with a refrigerant.
6. Turn on the air conditioner and check its performance. When the pressure in the system rises, quickly unscrew the hose from the collector and put all the plugs.

Take note! When connecting pressure gauges to the port using the adapter underneath the Freon R410, unscrew the adapter’s nut—not the hose—to disconnect! If not, the entire Freon will be released into space.

Allow the air conditioner to run in all modes at the end, and ensure that the condensate drains from the drainage system and not somewhere else (like along the wall beneath the internal module). Watch the most recent video to learn more about the split’s launch and the installation of the street block:

Imagine you have unintentionally let factory refrigerant leak into the air or that the gas has passed through a subpar connection. Remove the source of the leak, replace the cylinder’s freon, and re-season the air conditioner according to our advice.

Gaining more control over the comfort of your house can come from installing your own air conditioning system, which can be a satisfying experience. You can enjoy a cool, comfortable living space at a lower installation cost by being cautious and adhering to a clear plan. Don’t forget to carefully consider which system best suits your needs and make sure its layout works with your house.

Although going the DIY route has advantages, there are some things to consider. It takes extra caution to handle electrical components and refrigerant, and you might need specialized tools to do the task correctly. To make sure your system operates effectively and safely, it is best to seek professional assistance if you run into any difficulties or have any doubts.

Think about combining your air conditioning system with high-quality home insulation to get the most out of it. This can eventually result in lower energy bills in addition to making your AC operate more efficiently. Maintaining adequate insulation in your house will lighten the strain on your air conditioner, extending its lifespan and improving its performance.

While DIY air conditioning system installation can be a lot of fun, safety always comes first. Make sure you have the necessary equipment, are aware of the directions, and know when to seek professional assistance. You can have a cool, cozy house for many years to come with careful planning and attention to detail.

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