How to install a shower tray in the bathroom: the right approach to the question of installation of a shower cabin

Installing a shower tray is an essential step in remodeling your bathroom to create a contemporary and useful area. A shower tray, sometimes referred to as a shower base or shower pan, gives your shower enclosure a sturdy, watertight base. Your shower cabin’s longevity and effectiveness are largely dependent on proper installation. We’ll take you through every step of installing a shower tray in your bathroom in this guide, from setup to finishing touches.

Getting all the tools and supplies needed is crucial before beginning the installation process. A level, measuring tape, drill, screwdriver, silicone sealant, and of course the shower tray itself are usually required. Make sure your shower tray is the right size and style for your area, taking into account aspects like shape, size, and drainage options. Investing the necessary time up front to gather the necessary equipment will facilitate the installation process and reduce any potential roadblocks.

Installing a shower tray successfully requires preparation. Start by leveling and cleaning the floor thoroughly in the area where the shower tray will be installed. Any irregularity or debris could jeopardize the shower tray’s stability and performance. To check for any differences and make any necessary adjustments, use a spirit level. Furthermore, confirm that the drainage and plumbing connections are in the right location and prepared for installation. Sufficient preparation lays the groundwork for an easy and trouble-free installation process.

Now that the foundation has been established, it’s time to position the shower tray. The shower tray should be carefully lifted and moved into place, making sure it fits tightly against the walls and lines up with the drainage outlet. To ensure a perfectly level surface, use the spirit level to check for any irregularities and make the necessary adjustments. After the shower tray is properly positioned, fasten it with screws or adhesive, as directed by the manufacturer. For the shower enclosure to be stable and intact, proper alignment and secure fixing are necessary.

It’s time to seal the perimeter of the shower tray with silicone after it’s firmly in place. In order to stop leaks and water damage, this step is essential for sealing the shower tray against the surrounding walls. For a tidy finish, use your finger or a caulking tool to evenly distribute the sealant around the shower tray’s edges. Before moving on to the next step, let the sealant completely dry. This last step guarantees that your recently installed shower tray will last and work properly.

You’re getting closer to having a posh and practical shower in your newly renovated bathroom now that the shower tray is in place and sealed. To get the most out of your shower cabin’s longevity and functionality, proper installation is crucial. These steps will help you create professional-looking results and turn your bathroom into a chic and useful haven. Pay close attention to the details.

Step	Description
Gather Materials	Collect all necessary tools and equipment, including the shower tray, silicone sealant, leveling materials, and waterproofing membrane.
Prepare the Area	Clean the floor where the shower tray will be installed, ensuring it"s level and free of debris. If needed, use a spirit level to check for any unevenness.
Position the Tray	Place the shower tray in the desired location, making sure it fits properly and aligns with the drain pipe.
Level the Tray	Use shims or adjustable feet to level the tray if necessary. This step is crucial to prevent water from pooling and ensure proper drainage.
Secure the Tray	Once the tray is level, secure it in place using screws or adhesive as per the manufacturer"s instructions.
Apply Sealant	Apply a generous bead of silicone sealant around the edges of the tray where it meets the walls and floor. This creates a watertight seal to prevent leaks.
Install Waterproofing	If required, install a waterproofing membrane under the shower tray to protect the underlying structure from water damage.
Allow to Cure	Allow the sealant and any adhesive to cure as per the manufacturer"s recommendations before using the shower.

Mounting

A 120 x 90 bowl set atop a podium.

There are two methods for installing steel pallets: one is on a concrete or brick podium, and the other is on a unique steel frame that has legs. Selecting a model with movable legs and a frame is preferable.

Utilize a frame when installing.

If there isn’t a frame at the installation location, a brick podium needs to be set up beforehand. For this use, the floor is stripped of finishing to reveal a clean screed, which is then used to lay ceramic bricks (silicate bricks are not suitable because of their low resistance to moisture).

The surrounding structure is a parapet that is between 0.5 and 1.5 bricks high:

A brick curb is first installed.

Install a sewer pipe inside the building with a hydroseal to the riser (the exterior lead out the neck will enter the drain spigot). Then pour cement mortar. Pouring should be done at a height where the sides of the bowl rest on the curb and the bowl stands on it with the bottom.

Concrete base construction is the better option for increased reliability.

You can use assembly foam, silicone sealant, epoxy, or cement adhesive to fasten the bowl to the brickwork. Silicone has to be applied to wall joints.

Crucial! It is essential to check for leaks in the construction before making the final repairs. The tray cannot then be secured with glue or the joints sealed with silicone.

Ultimately, the podium is covered in tiles or another material, and skirting boards made of plastic or ceramic are used to adorn the joints where it meets the walls.

Make a small incline in the direction of the drain when installing.

How to tile the edge of the shower tray

The ugly cement stand is concealed by the tiling. Using tiles on a polymer or glass base is the conventional finishing method. The pedestal’s surface is coated with adhesive. The excess composition is taken out right away after the tile is laid. Uneven surfaces can be covered with mosaics, which are simple to cut with a construction knife. Set marking crosses to guarantee that the elements were spaced the same distance apart. Water-resistant grout and sealant are applied to every joint. In the video, you can see how to lay tiles.

Raise the shower tray’s curb.

The main design differences

Shape is the primary factor among the many reasons that distinguish all products. It is possible to encounter the following variants far more frequently:

It is not advised to select overly large models; the largest ceramic shower tray that is worth looking at is 100×100. After that, the price increases excessively.

For instance, if your niche is 1.2 meters wide, you should ideally place a 120 by 80 ceramic shower tray in that direction. This arrangement will allow you to place it very comfortably.

Furthermore, additional factors are to blame:

• Dimensions of the design – they are selected individually in each case and should be determined on the basis of their location, the highlights of the room – its area and configuration. In any case, options smaller than 70 cm in size should not look at – they are cramped and uncomfortable.
• The height of the sides is also extremely important, the higher they are, the less the possibility of splashing water, but it will also be more difficult to enter the cabin. Some variants may have a pedestal on which it is possible to sit down during hygienic procedures.

• The level of quality of ceramics is of fundamental importance, because this material is too fragile in case of non-compliance with the technology of manufacture. For this reason, we recommend choosing products from well-known manufacturers that have proven themselves among customers and experts.

Be mindful! To lessen the chance of slips and falls, pick designs with a grooved surface. This is another piece of very important advice.

Shower tray: the subtleties of installation with your own hands

Installing the shower tray is the first step in installing the shower stall. You must properly prepare before attempting to install a shower tray by hand. This includes understanding the subtleties of installation, assigning the tasks, adhering to the instructions, and following the calculation scheme.

Types and shapes of shower trays

The forms and materials used in the construction of various shower cabin trays can vary. The most popular types of shower trays are made of acrylic, ceramic, and steel, which are simple to install yourself. Cast iron and marble products are heavier, so it is still preferable to leave their installation to professionals.

The tray’s shape can be square, rectangular, rounded, or any combination of these. Every model has a similar installation principle, regardless of the material or shape. To make the process of equipping acrylic and ceramic trays easier to perform independently and prevent errors, let’s take a closer look at the fundamental differences between them and the intricacies of their installation.

It will be necessary to have the following supplies and equipment:

Building supplies include a trowel, concrete mortar, silicone sealant, hammer, jigsaw, screwdrivers, pliers, adjustable wrench, marker/pencil, drill, and perforator.

Preparing the place for the shower cabin

One of the following techniques is used to install the shower tray:

The area where the future shower stall will be located is first meticulously prepped. If the floor will be installed with the tray directly on it, without the need for a frame or other support, special attention must be given to leveling the surface. Roofing felt or polyethylene film is used to further insulate the walls when installing a shower tray in a frame or wooden structure.

Ensuring the shower tray is waterproof

Additionally, the strength of the installed tray must be confirmed. If the structure gives way under your weight, boards, foam, bricks, or polystyrene foam boards should be used to reinforce the tray. Concrete pouring beneath the stall’s base is one of the easiest ways to provide reinforcement. There are two possible approaches to this work: either pour and level the entire bathroom or just the area where the cabin will be placed and create a basic floor screed there.

A helpful tip is to install the steel tray beneath the shower stall mounting foam to minimize or completely eliminate the loud noise caused by the water jet pouring from above. Steel trays tend to make noise.

Not only must the floor be ready, but the pipes and electrical wiring for the shower cabin must be installed correctly. To make connecting hoses to pipes simple, every pipe should have an exit hole. Regarding the electrical wiring, it must be concealed and resistant to moisture; it is crucial to minimize twists. Three-core copper cable with double insulation, with a cross-section of at least 2.5 mm, is used in the wiring of the power supply cable. Cable routing is done straight from the electrical panel, and RCDs are installed.

Take note! It is best to leave the task of connecting the shower stall to the electrical panel to an expert if you lack the necessary knowledge and expertise working with electrical wiring!

How to install an acrylic shower tray

Acrylic models typically come with brackets for simple attachment, other fittings that make installation easier, and adjustable legs that can be fixed to the product already.

You can install the product as horizontally as possible with respect to the floor by adjusting the legs with an adjustable wrench and a level.

One weakness of acrylic products is that their centers are frequently unsupported. As a result, acrylic trays are frequently set up on sturdy podiums or other supports. The strength of the tray will directly depend on the size of the installation gap that is available. It is imperative that the sewer pipes remain accessible.

Proceed straight to the product installation after fortifying the bottom:

Marking is done by setting the structure horizontally with a construction level and accurately marking the drain hole and profile on the walls or tiles with a marker or pencil line; The pallet is taken out for the time being, the drain’s components are disconnected, and the drain’s outlet is linked to the sewer pipe;

The shower tray’s siphon is attached to the drain in the siphon drain hole. This process is known as "gluing of pipes"; bricks are laid beneath the base to serve as support, or steel pipes may be used. A layer of thick rubber is then applied to the top of the pipes, and the structure is pushed in and secured with silicone. The stall is connected to all required communications, and the lower perimeter of the entire construction is lined with decorative panels with silicone sealant applied carefully to the joints.

Installing a ceramic shower tray

Take note! Any ceramic tray installation needs to be done very carefully. The product is extremely brittle and is easily broken or damaged by even a small bump or a heavy object falling on it!

One characteristic that sets the ceramic models apart is that there is no empty space beneath the construction. This implies that no extra supports are needed, and installation can be done right on the floor covering. This is handy since it removes the need for any structural strengthening operations, but it has a drawback in that access to the drain and other communications is difficult to provide.

Marking: borders are drawn around the whole perimeter of the structure and the future location of the drain is marked with a marker or pencil; has a drain hole, which should be as close to the drain pipe as possible; this is the area of the floor where the trap will eventually be placed, and it should be carefully removed using an electric jigsaw;

Via the inspection hatch, the pipe and siphon are connected.

unobstructed access to the sewerage communications is provided – not far from the already existing made cutout is made another small notch in the floor, so that the floor area was beyond the boundaries of the structure and there is an opportunity to lay the trap and pipe grid under the floor;
a small removable viewing panel is made of a piece of flooring cut out with an electric jigsaw, and PVA glue, previously diluted with a small amount of water, is applied in two layers to the location of the tray;
the siphon is connected to the drain;
the tray is fixed with mortar, while maintaining a horizontal position;
When the mortar is completely dry, the siphon is carefully connected to the pipe through the inspection panel;
all joints are carefully sealed with silicone sealant.

Final finishing of the sump

After the installation is finished and all communications are connected, finishing work is done. Depending on the kind of pallet that was used, finishing is done:

When installed directly on the floor, an "apron" is typically used as a finish, and the joints are then sealed with sealant. The frame for the support is frequently tiled with tiles, followed by joint sealing.

Tiling with tiles or mosaics

To conceal the mounting bases, it is frequently necessary to tile the sides. Using mosaic tiles on a plastic or glass base is one of the easiest ways to solve the issue.

Using a toothed trowel, a layer of adhesive is applied to the substrate. Excess adhesive needs to be taken out right away after the tiles are pressed in place.

Because of their paper base, mosaics are a great way to cover uneven surfaces because they are simple to cut with construction scissors or a knife.

All joints need to be sealed, whether you use mosaic or tiles. This makes the most sense if you choose to construct the pallet yourself.

Tiles or mosaics can be used to fill in the area between the tray and the floor. If you construct it yourself, the mosaic pieces’ flexibility enables you to quickly and effectively tile the tray’s sides or entire surface.

Use crosses to form the joints. Use a rubber trowel and waterproof grout to grout the joints after tiling. After that, the grout residue is eliminated, and everything is cleaned using a cloth. It is necessary to clean the tiles after everything has dried.

What is the best base for a sump

The shower tray can be installed in a few different ways:

• on a brick foundation;
• on plastic support parts;
• on a metal frame.

Select the foundation based on the technological features and equipment of the model. Because the drain hole needs to be above the sewer line in order for the water to drain away properly, a foundation is required. According to experts, there should be a minimum 3-degree inclination from the bottom to the sewer main entrance. A specialized pump will be needed to pump out the water if creating a pedestal or lowering the sewer inlet are not feasible options.

The majority of deep models come with a unique metal profile frame. However, bathers’ feet will quickly squeeze the bottom between the rails if the tray has thin walls, especially if the bathroom’s owners are not particularly frail. Variants of acrylic can even form through cracks in these areas. Deep pallets with thin walls therefore also need a firm base.

Ceramic shower trays can be installed straight onto a level floor without the need for a foundation or mounting gap.

In order for the water to exit the container quickly and the drain hole to be above the outlet, it is necessary to track the quality of the sewer line laying in this area. With the use of cement tile mixture or glue, the element is secured to the floor.

Typically, cast iron components are just set on the ground. They are tall enough to drain into the sewer system with consistency. For stone products, the same holds true. However, there might be a siphon issue here. Either a flexible unit needs to be connected and concealed in a specially designed wall niche, or it needs to be set up directly on the floor.

When installing shower trays, take into account the various foundation installation techniques.

Metal or plastic frame

Should you decide to go with this kind of base, installation won’t take a long time. Here, the primary actions will be:

1. Leveling the legs with a construction level.
2. Installation of the shower tray itself.
3. Connection to the sewerage system and fixing the drain hole.

To insulate the area, place a slab of extruded polystyrene beneath the bottom. The same method is also applied to the installation foam. When installing steel trays, this is extremely crucial. It will also aid in lessening the sound of water falling.

After the shower tray has been installed, you must make sure it is stable. You will need additional supports made of brick pillars or steel angles if the tray squeaks or wobbles.

You can construct a detachable formwork and pour concrete to safeguard the thin bottom and provide stability to the structure. On the resultant pedestal, the shower tray installation will take place. There are drawbacks to this approach: leaks cannot be found and fixed. Installing a trap and replacing the sewerage unit are both fairly challenging tasks. As an alternative, you’ll need to conceal the siphon in a wall niche and use flexible connections.

Installing the shower tray on a brick foundation

For the majority of trays, this is a great solution that removes any deformation and prolongs the life of the sanitary ware. Selecting the location for the siphon installation is crucial.

In this instance, bricks are not just placed around the product’s edge. If not, the bottom will eventually sag. To overcome this drawback, designs with legs include an extra support in the middle. Such a model cannot be installed on a level brick foundation due to the bulge. For this bump, an indentation must be provided.

The following is the proper process for laying a brick foundation:

1. The foundation lines are drawn to the required dimensions.
2. Mixing the cement mortar for masonry.
3. Apply a few strokes of the composition on the floor with a trowel.
4. Lay the first row of bricks, starting from the corner, and tap them with a mallet for better adherence to the floor. The seam thickness should be 5-7 mm.

After three days, when the masonry has fully risen, the shower tray is installed.

In the event that the pallet is semicircular, the bricks are arranged in a fan at the bend, with the pumpkin faces outward.

A 20 by 20 mm metal frame that has been welded together can serve as support in the middle of the bottom. Dowel nails are used to secure it to the floor in between the brick rows. An insulating rubber layer adhered to the metal surface should be used to prevent acrylic from rubbing against metal surfaces.

A ladder to the shower stall entrance will need to be built if the tray is deep and the foundation is high. Tiles can be used to cover steps that are composed of bricks or concrete. Tiles or another waterproof material complete the walls behind the tray. Additionally, the tile adhesive needs to be extremely resistant to moisture.

Choosing the right model

Shower cabin trays are available in square, rectangular, and rounded edge shapes. Here, the decision is based on the owner’s preferences. When installing, it is far more crucial to consider the structure’s depth:

Trunking trays are like miniature bathtubs. They are supported by a sturdy frame with six height-adjustable legs and high sides starting at 20 cm. The cost of deep shower trays The side heights of products with a medium depth range from 10 to 20 cm. They may have the same network of support as their deep or shallow analogs. Shallow or low structures have small sides, and occasionally they have legs. However, they typically receive no assistance. And under them, a specific foundation must be laid.

In certain instances, the shower cabin’s floor is waterproof and equipped with drains to facilitate water drainage.

There are also options for the trays as detachable and built-in trays. Installing requires that this point be taken into consideration.

Not less significant is the wall thickness of the chosen piece of sanitary ware.

Plastic and acrylic are used to make trays with thin walls. These models have the benefits of being inexpensive, easy to transport, and easy to install. However, thin-walled models have several drawbacks:

The need for a solid base; temperature fluctuations causing surface cracking; mechanical deformation from people washing their feet.

Steel pallets may have peeling coatings, and areas that are damaged may develop rusty patches. Analogs of acrylic are easily scratched, say, if you decide to wash your best friend’s dog.

Concrete and brick trays or ceramic trays are stronger. Cast-iron models are the strongest.

How to choose a shower tray, video:

Mounting of the drainage drain

Whatever the design of the drain and the tray, the best option will be the "hard" installation of the trap before pouring the tray|stretcher. Rigid installation is when the trap, tray or channel is securely fixed with mortar. Trays and channels usually have a special fastener in their set, but it fixes the structure not rigidly enough and it is easy to break the design position during the pouring of the screed.

It is therefore best to install the drain on complete (if available) or homemade fasteners first, and then to cover the entire area beneath the drain with tile adhesive or grout. This will give us a clear view of the tray’s lowest point in addition to enabling us to safely fix the structure.

If the pouring is done in two layers, as a last resort, stiff fasteners can be made before a clean layer of screed forms.

In this picture, the shower tray is cemented with cement mortar in addition to the full fixing, which consists of legs. This was carried out when the first rough screed layer was poured.

I want to state up front that drain designs that do not include a flange are not taken into consideration. In most cases, it is necessary to have high-quality shower waterproofing, so having a flange in the trap’s design is essential!

A flange is a few centimeters of border around the tray that is specifically made for dependable waterproof mating.

To adjust the drain to the desired level, four studs are screwed into appropriate dowels. The structure behind the flange is supported by the studs, and each stud’s height can be changed by twisting and unscrewing two locknuts.

The drain in the aforementioned picture is designed in a way that means the flange’s level will always be lower than the finishing screed. As a result, going forward, a tie must only be formed up to the flange, leaving a space around the tray. An illustration can be found in the picture below.

After applying spray waterproofing, the depression surrounding the drain is sealed with tile adhesive (obviously after the latter has dried).

A 40 or 50 mm pipe connects the drain itself to the sewer. Though I believe it is not necessary and 40 mm will also perfectly serve its purpose, I prefer to use 50 mm pipe. An adapter is used directly behind the drain when installing the 50 pipe if the drain outlet is 40mm, as is frequently the case.

It’s best to use two at 45 degrees rather than 90 degrees when laying sewers, as is the case with any sewer installation. As experience has shown, corrugated sewer spigots are highly unreliable, so I do not recommend using them.

It is important to understand that there is a strong likelihood that the drain’s water gate will frequently be torn off if the sewer riser is inadequately ventilated. Additionally, "grunting" noises from the tray are common. It is therefore preferable to select a drain with a premium combined shutter in these circumstances. For instance, springs should not be a part of the gate’s "dry" mechanism since this is an inherently unstable technical solution.

Additionally, the issue with the aerator—a valve that allows air to enter the sewer but limits odors—will be resolved in the event that riser ventilation—which is common in older homes—is absent. You shouldn’t, however, rely solely on the valve because it will function to service the entire riser, which includes all apartments. If only to install the same as the majority of the neighbors…

Necessary consumables and tools

1. Screwdriver and punch;
2. A set of screwdrivers;
3. Marker or pencil;
4. Drill with drill bits;
5. Electric cable;
6. Sewer pipes;
7. Fixing compound;
8. Plastic dowels;
9. Self-tapping screws;
10. Plugs;
11. Concrete mortar; container for it;
12. Styrofoam;
13. Trowel;
14. Silicone sealant.
15. Construction level;

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Types and shapes of pallets

The forms and materials used in the construction of various shower cabin trays can vary. The most popular types of shower trays are made of acrylic, ceramic, and steel, which are simple to install yourself. Cast iron and marble products are heavier, so it is best to leave their installation to professionals.

Pallets come in a variety of shapes, including square, rectangular, and others, with or without rounded edges. All models follow a similar installation principle, regardless of material or shape. To make independent work performance easier and prevent mistakes, let’s take a closer look at how acrylic and ceramic pallets are equipped, as well as the subtle differences between them and how to install them. [ The following equipment and supplies are needed:

Construction level, trowel, concrete mortar, silicone sealant, hammer, jigsaw, screwdrivers, pliers, adjustable wrench, marker/pencil, drill, punch, and copper cable

Which material works best, ceramic, acrylic, or metal?

Purchasing a prefabricated shower cabin, which requires little installation work, is currently the easiest option. Numerous features, including a radio, telephone, and hydromassage, are included in this design. But this kind of functionality isn’t always needed, and the cabin can cost up to enormous sums of money. In this sense, the majority of people would rather purchase a shower tray that they can install themselves rather than spend money on it.

Acrylic trays are the most widely used because they are affordable and lightweight.

Choose the shower tray’s manufacturing material before installing it, as some installation details will depend on it. And there are plenty of options from which to select:

Natural stone. Expensive options, the installation of which should be done by professionals, because they are heavy, and at the slightest wrong movement can damage the pallet without the possibility of recovery.Metal. Such trays are quite noisy and slippery, especially steel ones, although modern manufacturers are trying to produce more advanced models, combating these shortcomings. But such options are still very few. Therefore, it is necessary to be ready for independent soundproofing of the bowl.Ceramics. Heavy, but at the same time reliable designs. Their disadvantage is the price and the possibility of damage by heavy objects.Acrylic (plastic). The most common option, due to its affordable price and light weight. Such structures are easy to heat, they are non-slip and do not make noise, unlike their steel counterparts.

Contemporary models come in various heights and sizes as well. As they say, each person makes their own decisions in this situation. In the event that the occupants of the house are elderly or have any physical disabilities, options featuring a slight elevation will be important to ensure easy access to the pallet. However, we suggest that you bring trays with high walls if you intend to use the design as a tiny bathroom and you have young children. Ultimately, they can extend up to 40 cm in certain models.

For the article "How to Install a Shower Tray in the Bathroom: The Right Approach to the Question of Installation of a Shower Cabin" on the "Heating and Insulation of the House" website, the main thesis is to guide readers through the correct steps to install a shower tray for their bathroom. From preparation to final touches, the article will provide practical tips and advice to ensure a successful installation. By focusing on key elements such as measuring, leveling, sealing, and securing, readers will gain confidence in tackling this project themselves, saving time and money while achieving professional results. Whether it"s a DIY endeavor or with professional assistance, understanding the proper techniques for installing a shower tray is essential for a functional and aesthetically pleasing bathroom space.

Creating a customized pallet – step-by-step instructions

Building a structure with your hands involves the following steps:

1. Preparing the place of installation. First, a waterproofing layer is laid. This will prevent the spread of fungus.
2. Arranging the drainage system. The ready-made drain is purchased at a plumbing or building materials store. The drainage system is connected to the sewage line. Joints are sealed with special compounds or rubber gaskets.
3. Laying the base. Lay bricks or form a cement base. It is recommended to give the sides a square shape. The protruding corner is rounded so that it does not traumatize the occupants and the construction takes less space. After 3 days lay the waterproofing layer. The surface is then covered with a cement screed with a slope towards the drain.

A unique mixture is used to level the structure’s surface. Tiles are installed following more waterproofing.

Although installing a shower tray might seem difficult, it can be simple and satisfying if you take the proper approach. You can make sure that your shower cabin is installed properly and gives you years of useful and pleasurable bathing experiences by following the instructions provided in this article.

First and foremost, being prepared is essential. Before you start, make sure you have all the required equipment and supplies. To guarantee a good fit, measure the area where the shower tray will be placed. Make sure the floor is level and stable and clear the area of any debris.

When it comes to actually installing the shower tray, pay close attention to the instructions provided by the manufacturer. In order to do this, the floor may need to be coated with sealant or adhesive before the tray is positioned. Before letting the sealant dry, make sure the tray is level in every direction using a spirit level.

To stop water leaks, give the shower tray’s edges careful sealing after it is installed. Applying silicone sealant to the edges of the tray where it meets the walls or other surfaces may be necessary to achieve this. Let the sealant fully dry before taking a shower.

Lastly, if you have any questions concerning any step of the installation procedure, don’t be afraid to ask for professional assistance. Even though many do-it-yourselfers can install a shower tray, it’s crucial to know when the task calls for the skills of a qualified expert. Long-term savings on time, money, and hassle can be achieved by making an investment in a properly installed shower cabin.

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