How to install a heating battery in a private house

A vital first step in guaranteeing warmth and comfort on cold days is installing a heating battery in your home. The general coziness and energy efficiency of your home can be greatly improved by knowing the ins and outs of this process, whether you’re building from scratch or remodeling.

Let’s start by dispelling the myth surrounding what a heating battery is. In essence, it’s a gadget that heats your house with hot water. Consider it a radiator with a contemporary makeover. These batteries are frequently placed in different rooms of the house to provide focused warmth where it is most needed.

What is the purpose of installing a heating battery, then? In addition to the obvious benefit of keeping you warm, they’re also a great way to save energy and money because they distribute heat efficiently, allowing you to have a cozy home without turning up the thermostat to the highest setting.

Evaluating your home’s heating requirements is crucial before beginning the installation process. Take into account elements such as your home’s size, design, and local climate. This will assist in figuring out how many heating batteries are needed and where to put them to get the best possible warmth.

Let’s now discuss the specifics of installation. Although you could complete this project on your own, it’s usually a good idea to hire experts, particularly if you have no experience with HVAC or plumbing systems. You can feel secure knowing that everything is installed properly and safely when a qualified technician does the installation.

Step	Description
1	Choose the location for the heating battery.
2	Turn off the main power supply to avoid accidents.
3	Measure the space to ensure the radiator fits.
4	Install brackets on the wall for support.
5	Connect the valves to the radiator.
6	Attach the radiator to the brackets securely.
7	Connect the pipes to the radiator.
8	Bleed the air out of the radiator.
9	Test the system for leaks.
10	Turn on the power and adjust the temperature settings.

The selection of heating devices by type and power

If you haven’t bought batteries yet, you must select one of the four types of heating radiators that are for sale before installation:

1. Sectional aluminum. Produced from a light alloy – silumin (aluminum + silicon) in the form of ribbed sections painted with heat -resistant polymer composition.
2. Bimetallic heaters are made two types – sectional and monolithic, although outwardly ready -made batteries look the same. Design: inside each section from Silumin, a frame of steel pipes is laid out.
3. Cast iron heating devices – designer and Soviet model – are only sectional.
4. Steel radiators are welded from stamped metal (panel) or made by casting (tubular).

Note: There are copper and skirting convectors in addition to the heaters shown in the picture. They are not often used in water systems.

When selecting a heating device type, consider two factors: cost and aesthetic compatibility with the rooms’ interior design. With one exception: radiators in apartments with centralized heat supply require radiators with a pressure of 12 bar. Any batteries can be used in an autonomous heating system of a private residence. A separate instruction goes into detail on how to choose heaters.

The manufacturer’s technical documentation details the heat transfer of batteries and registers. As per the relevant guidelines, a 70°C difference in the coolant and indoor air temperatures indicates the radiator sections’ power.

For instance, if the water in the pipes is 90 °C and the room is 20 °C, the section will produce roughly 180 watts of heat. The coolant rarely reaches temperatures of 80–90 °C, so the actual heat transfer will be substantially lower. Thus, the recommendation is to purchase radiators with an 80–100% margin. We go over simplified power calculation techniques in our content and in the video:

Nearly every battery type is available in two performance levels: one with a lower or lateral connection. In this case, the decision is based on the pipe-laying technique and the cart’s mechanism. Therefore, you must think about the problem before installing.

About the methods of connecting radiators

The placement of the heating device on the wall is dependent upon the connection scheme, which needs to be thought out beforehand. As an illustration, installing batteries with a lower connection necessitates positioning a headset with cranes up to 10 cm beneath the heater. If two pipes are installed in a two-pipe system above the baseboard, the radiator will not be able to reach the niche if the windowsill is too low.

An illustration of the second would be if you made the decision on your own to replace the outdated cast-iron "accordion" in your apartment with a contemporary gadget. Only lateral connections can be made through iron pipes in wiring. You will need to increase the amount of metal-plastic or polypropylene eyeliners in order to position the radiator in the center of the window.

Methods for connecting batteries:

1. Side versatile (diagonal). The coolant is supplied through the upper hole, leaves the bottom from the opposite side, evenly flowing through the internal channels. Heat transfer is maximum, the radiator works effectively.
2. Lateral – both eyeliners join on 1 side. About 10% of thermal power is lost, since the far part of the battery warms up worse.
3. The lower versatile scheme is used in horizontal single -pipe systems such as Leningradka. The effectiveness of the device is reduced by 10-20% depending on the pressure created by the circulation pump.
4. The purely lower coolant eyeliner is not inferior to the diagonal due to the constructive feature – through the first vertical channel, the water rises into the upper zone of the radiator, and then diverges through the rest of the ducts and collects below.

Schemes with lateral connections are more frequently used in openly installed traditional two-pipe or single-pipe (apart from Leningrad) systems. A more contemporary alternative is the lower eyeliner, which has boiler pipes buried in the floor just beneath the battery.

4 types of radiator reinforcement

The system needs to be balanced before the water heating is turned on. It also needs to be repaired and radiators need to be flushed. The following shut-off-regulating reinforcement is applied in order to resolve these issues:

• balancing valve;
• Ball crane;
• Thermostatic valve with thermogram;
• Tarks.

A crucial aspect. Use straight and corner cranes with American women whenever installing heating batteries. You can remove the heater whenever you want without having to empty the pipeline network thanks to the connection to the unit nuts.

How to reinforce a radiator:

1. When connecting a heating device with centralized heating, put 2 ball valves, a balancing valve will not be needed. Option two: on the feed line, you can provide a valve with a thermogram for automatic control of air temperature in the room.
2. Radiators in a private house are connected as follows: at the entrance of a ball crane, at the exit – a balancing valve. If you want to adjust the duct automatically, instead of the input crane, put the thermogol.
3. For the lower connection, use a special headset with a built -in balance valve from Danfoss, Herz Armaturen, Overtrop. There are models for installing a thermostat.

Remember to include a bypass for a direct water duct for a riser when changing the apartment’s battery. You won’t need to balance it because the final radiator in the country house’s separate heating network is equipped with two cutting-off cranes.

Location and height of the installation of batteries

The locations where heat loss is greatest should be where radiators are installed:

• traditional location – under the window, in the middle of the light opening (if you look vertically);
• in the corridor near the front door;
• on stairwells;
• Near the cold walls of living rooms without window openings.

Justification. Оогда батарея установлена в подоконной нише, охлажденным воздухом от окна представит конвекционный поток. Installing water or electric convectors in the floor is preferable to building stained glass windows on the room’s exterior wall.

Should heating radiator installation be done beneath windows, be able to tolerate the minimum indentations listed below:

• From the outer wall – 2.5 cm;
• from the windowsill – 50 mm;
• from the floor – 60 … 200 mm, depending on the type of heating device and the method of connecting it.

The depth of steel panel radiators varies widely, ranging from 6 cm (type 10) to 160 mm (type 33), in contrast to aluminum and bimetallic batteries. The battery’s capacity to skip and heat more air increases with thickness. Thus, it is essential to remove the warm flow from above the heater and to supply air from below. The drawing displays the various steel panel installation circuits.

Suggestion made. We do not recommend that you sew the radiator all the way through after installation; instead, make two grating-covered convective openings. It will result in the complete loss of infrared heat flow, which uses at least 20% of the battery power. However, because of the temperature differential between the street and the niche, the air beneath the sheathing will heat up to 30 to 40 °C, increasing heat losses.

Installation instructions

In order to hang and attach the battery to the heating pipes, get ready the following parts and supplies:

• hooks with plastic dowels for attaching the radiator to the wall – at least 3 pcs.;
• 2 footballs (side traffic jams) with right pipe threads are indicated by the Latin letter D;
• 2 footers with left thread, marking – S;
• 1 manual air vent (Maevsky crane) with a key;
• 1 plug;
• sealing silicone thread or flax;
• tap, balancing valve, thermostatic valve, headset – according to the scheme;
• polypropylene, metal -plastic or polyethylene pipes with an inner diameter of 10-15 mm for eyeliners.

The heating device determines how many fasteners are needed. Up to ten sections of aluminum batteries must be fastened to three hooks or specialized brackets—two from above and one from below. Four fasteners are used in other instances.

Suspended brackets are included with the sale of steel panels in sets. Floor-mounted cast iron radiators that are heavy have legs.

From the necessary tools:

• electric drill and drill corresponding to the hardness of the wall;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• construction level;
• gas key;
• Roulette, pencil.

Preliminary assembly

The metal drives called nipples, on which the left and right threads are cut to half their length, are what pull the radiator sections together. There isn’t a long key with a nozzle under the nipple in the house, which is required for the connection. Thus, advice: request that sections be twisted in-store.

Gather a sectional battery by following these steps:

1. Clean the sites around the side holes.
2. Twist 4 feet from the ends, carefully tighten them with a gas key. Please note: traffic jams with conventional thread should be twisted into the right ends of the radiator, with left thread – in the left (if you look at the front side of the product).
3. Close the unused lower output with a plug from the kit.
4. Using sealing material, packet and screw the maevsky crane into the upper channel.
5. In the remaining 2 holes, set the response part of the Americans disconnected from the cranes.

A crucial aspect. It is not necessary to encase a footstorm around an American element with a rug nut until it stops. If not, the nut will remain fixed against the edge, preventing the valve from being attached. You will need a specific internal key to screw, but you can also use strong pliers if you prefer.

Once the Americans have been installed, tighten the valves by hand. Except in cases where you need to install an air vent, assembly panel heaters are not necessary. The film shields the coating from accidental damage, so don’t remove it from the body.

How to mark a radiator mount

We begin with preparation: we take out any objects that could cause interference, tear down any outdated wallpaper (you can glue a foil reflective screen in its place), and disassemble the old battery in case it needs to be replaced. Use caution when using a grinder to cut the threads on steel pipe wiring. It is preferable to use a metal brush to clean it and to unscrew the nut to unpack the coupling connection.

Reference: You will need to find a set of pipe Lerok and cut the turns along a new length if the thread has become unusable for any reason. The GEBO type crimp connecting couplings can be used in open heating systems operating at atmospheric pressure.

How to appropriately mark up the battery:

1. Determine the middle of the window opening and designate it on the wall with a vertical line.
2. Retreating from the windowsill 7-10 cm, draw the horizontal using the level. This line denotes the position of the upper end of the radiator.
3. Measure the distance from the center of the collected battery to the suspension points, set it on horizontal in both sides of the vertical line. The section heater can be put to the wall and make tags opposite two extreme joints.
4. Find out the size from the upper panel to the radiator mounting point, set this distance from the previous tags. Get the upper drilling points.
5. The points of the lower suspensions are easily determined: back down another 50 cm – this is the standard inter -bee range of heaters. There are other sizes – 300, 600 mm and so on.

Make sure to measure the windowsill’s horizontality before marking. From the outside, it will appear as though the radiator is fixed unevenly if it stands unevenly and the battery is hung level. Next, you have to negotiate the windowsill’s slope.

Moment two: the heater is installed with a slight slope to allow air to exit through Maevsky’s crane. The air intake side of the device is actually elevated by one to two millimeters; this skew won’t be noticeable from the outside.

You must measure the radiator’s position in relation to the windowsill before attaching it to the height of the existing pipes when replacing the radiator. The master will demonstrate how to do this in the video:

The final stage

The following basic guidelines are followed when installing heating radiators in their final location:

1. Drill holes, forget the dowels and attach the suspensions. Hooks for sectional appliances are screwed taking into account the smallest retreat 25 mm.
2. Piece the battery on the brackets and try on the eyeliners. For convenience, draw lines on the wall.
3. Remove the radiator and do preliminary work – break the furrows for a hidden gasket, connect the eyeliner to the highways, stick the reflecting screen.
4. Finally install the heating device, connect the pipes and tighten the American.

After shutting off the taps and valves, leave them open in order to properly add coolant to the system. When using a manual air vent to water water or remove antifreeze, it must stay closed.

It’s essential to block the entire riser when changing the central heating radiator in the middle of the season. After installing the tap at the battery input, shut it off and proceed to fill the riser with water. As soon as the теплоносителя затихнет, открываѹте сначала верхних кран, потом нижниѹ. Reduce the battery’s air pressure.

How to hang a battery on a warm wall

Homeowners will occasionally use a 50 mm-thick layer of foam or extruded polystyrene foam to insulate the exterior walls from the interior. The issue is that regular hooks are too short and longer hooks bend and experience console load when installing the radiator battery. It is obvious that attaching solely to the wall rather than the polystyrene is impractical.

Our expert Vitaly Dashko provides a straightforward solution in his video. This is the technology used for battery installation:

1. We mark the fastening points according to the above instructions.
2. We take a wooden beam of 5 x 5 cm (or along the thickness of the insulation) with a length of 600 mm or in size of the bracket for a steel radiator.
3. We cut out a vertical recess in the foam, insert the beam there and fasten it to the wall with any fasteners – dowels, anchors, bastards.
4. We put the heating device on the standard suspensions attached to the bars.

In order to install the radiator on the insulated wall, we watch this video:

In addition to potentially lowering energy costs, installing a heating battery in your home can greatly improve comfort during the winter. A few essential actions will help to guarantee a smooth installation procedure. First and foremost, it’s critical to choose the right kind and size of heating battery depending on the particular requirements of your house. Take into account elements like the room’s dimensions, the degree of insulation, and your heating needs.

Be sure to adequately prepare the space where the heating battery will be installed before beginning installation. This includes making sure there is enough room for air to circulate around the radiator and that it is accessible for maintenance. Before installing the new battery, it’s also crucial to evaluate the state of your current heating system to see if any improvements or repairs are required.

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to the letter when installing the heating battery. For best results, the radiator must be positioned and connected to the heating system correctly. Please do not hesitate to contact a licensed plumber or heating engineer for assistance if you have any questions regarding any part of the installation process.

To guarantee that the heat is distributed evenly throughout your house after the heating battery is installed, give the system a thorough balance. This can entail regulating bleeders and valves to control how much hot water each radiator receives. Frequent upkeep of your heating system, such as cleaning and inspections on a regular basis, can help extend its life and guarantee effective functioning.

In conclusion, installing a heating battery in your home is a doable task that can result in major comfort and energy savings advantages. You can enjoy a warm and comfortable home during the winter months and possibly save money on heating costs by carefully choosing the right radiator, prepping the installation area, adhering to proper installation procedures, and maintaining your heating system.

In this guide on "How to Install a Heating Radiator in Your Private House," we"ll walk you through the process step by step. First, you"ll need to choose the right location for your radiator, considering factors like room layout and heat distribution. Then, gather your tools and materials, including the radiator itself, pipes, valves, and fittings. Next, shut off the water supply to the area where you"ll be installing the radiator, and drain any existing water from the system. Once you"ve prepared the area, it"s time to mount the brackets and attach the radiator securely to the wall. After that, connect the pipes to the radiator, ensuring a tight seal with the appropriate fittings. Finally, refill the system with water, bleed any air from the radiator, and test the heating to ensure everything is working correctly. With careful planning and attention to detail, installing a heating radiator in your private house can be a manageable DIY project that enhances comfort and warmth throughout your home.

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