How to heat the stove with coal: features of the furnace, advantages and disadvantages

Many of us worry about heating our homes effectively and economically, particularly in the winter. Despite the widespread use of contemporary heating systems, there is still charm and utility in utilizing a coal stove. This approach has been used for many years and is still preferred by people who recognize its special advantages.

It takes more than just tossing coal onto a fire and hoping for the best to operate a coal stove. It involves a certain amount of science and art. The efficiency with which the furnace heats your house can vary greatly depending on your knowledge of its features and operation. To guarantee efficiency and safety, it’s also imperative to understand the dos and don’ts. Therefore, it’s crucial to familiarize yourself with the specifics of a coal stove if you’re thinking about using one to heat your home.

Coal heating has its own benefits and drawbacks, just like any other heating technique. The advantages of coal include its high heat output and low cost in comparison to other fuels. Another notable quality of coal stoves is their sturdiness and longevity—with the right maintenance, they can endure for decades. It is not without drawbacks, though. Regular maintenance is necessary for coal stoves, and handling and storing coal is a continuous task that can get messy. Concerns regarding environmental impact and air quality are other things you’ll need to think about.

Types of coal

Russia’s GOST 25543-2013 classifies stone coal into three categories:

Brown wood is relatively well-dried (humidity ≤20%) and has a low heat-intensive ability (≤6.6 kW poses/kg). It can burn at a maximum temperature of 1900 degrees, but because of air supply restrictions, it can only burn at a temperature of 1000 degrees, which is not much higher than that of firewood or briquettes. This material is distinct due to its weak brilliance and brown color.

Stone coal is much more efficient because it can grow heat at a rate of 7–10 kW per kg and can burn at a temperature higher than 2000 °C.However, it rarely produces heat in a furnace at a temperature higher than 1100 °C.

Varies in black and moderate brilliance when using stone coal. Anthracite is similar to stone coal in terms of heat-intensiveness, but it burns poorly below 1,500 degrees, so it frequently burns out in the furnace for a long time before being totally burned out.

Additionally, the owners of the furnace quickly destroy the gratings by increasing the thrust and air supply to ensure more stable burning. This is because the cast iron gradually becomes thinner at such temperatures because it fades greatly.

Anthracite coal can be distinguished from brown and stone coal based on these indicators:

• In appearance and touch it is fat and slippery;
• greatly reflects the light.

Coal is also divided into brands, but only long-flare coal is suitable for brick furnaces, so before you buy, make sure to find out which brand is being offered.

The fraction (size) is another crucial factor; for brick furnaces, they work best as follows:

Additionally, each fraction is better suited for a particular furnace stage than another, but all except seeds are universal, meaning they can be used without the fuel of another fraction.

Recall that coking coal cannot be used for heating purposes in residential brick furnaces.

Features of combustion

Although the process of burning coal is similar to that of thermally decomposing hydrocarbons, the way coal burns differs greatly from that of wood. If you add three to four chocks to the fuel, the burning will be stable and hot. If you add the same amount of coal pieces, the burning will be weak and the flame will be low.

Because air passes through the entire mass of fuel, oxidizing part of the pyrolysis gases and raising the coal’s temperature, the coal needs a layer that is 5 to 20 cm thick in order to burn the released gas above the coal’s surface and produce the greatest amount of heat and flame.

Simultaneously, the amount of airflow determines the temperature in the thermal decomposition zone, or inside the fuel mass. The temperature can reach 1-2 thousand degrees Celsius in the area where the smoke pipe damper and the most open jigsaw door are located.

Consequently, the temperature in the active combustion zone is raised to a level of 600–1200 degrees by varying the air supply and traction strength. The furnace must be warmed to its maximum temperature before using the reduced combustion intensity regime to continuously heat the furnace’s body or heating shield, which guarantees the KP’s maximum efficiency.

Because coal has a lower ratio of combustion temperature to smoke gas emissions than firewood, the furnace body heats more slowly. This, along with a high concentration of under-heated pyrolysis gases, causes a greater amount of soot and slag to form in smoke channels. As a result, brick furnaces using this kind of solid fuel require more frequent cleaning than those using wood.

If coal condensate doesn’t dry out during stove cladding, it gets absorbed into bricks and masonry solution, which causes a pungent, disagreeable smell to come out. If this occurs, the stove can no longer be allowed to dry; a new one made entirely of bricks must be disassembled and folded in its place.

Topka requirements

Should you desire to submerge the CP in coal, then it The fuel needs to meet the following specifications:

• the presence of a grate;
• a special form that ensures the rolling of unfinished coals to the grate;
• Flaws of refractory brick;
• sufficient depth from the bottom of the furnace door to the grate;
• Mandatory department of lining from the body of the furnace with kaolin or basalt wool.

Effective coal burning can only be accomplished with golst furnaces. Even in the scam furnace, it is possible to guarantee the combustion of this kind of solid fuel; however, the grate is the only place where maximum heat can be produced.

It ensures the effectiveness of pyrolysis and burning pyrolysis gases, as well as the fall of ash in the ash chamber, by bringing air through the entire array of combustible material.

It is necessary to construct the lower portion of the furnace chamber as a truncated pyramid that taper to the grate.This allows stones that haven’t burned yet to be shifted to the grates as opposed to being burned and turning to ash, which would otherwise wake up through the grate.

Part of the coal won’t burn all the way through if you use the standard rectangular firebox, so you’ll need to sift the ash after cleaning the furnace to get these remnants.

You cannot heat the stove with coal without lining because the ceramic brick used to make the KP’s walls melts at temperatures between 1100 and 1300 degrees in the pyrolysis zone. Additionally, this kind of fuel is not appropriate for a furnace chamber lined with ceramic brick because already This lining needs to be replaced in a month. You should only use fireproof brick or bream to foot the furnace under coal.

The lower edge of the furnace door should be raised above the grate for this distance because coal fuel can only burn effectively with a layer of 5 to 20 cm.

Less efficiently, the firebox of a furnace with a normal lining and a door level with the grates, can also be used. A portion of the stovers create a CP for coal without a furnace door, allowing firewood and coal to be loaded through a cast-iron hob’s opening for ignition.

The pyrolysis decay zone is extremely hot, so even full-sized bricks—not to mention bream—cannot shield the CP’s body from overheating and brick structure destruction, which would result in a loss of masonry strength.

A layer of thermal insulation, such as air or a combination of basalt and kaolin cotton wool, is required to prevent this from happening. For brick, the ideal protective layer thickness is 0.5–1 cm, and for bream, it is 2-3 cm.

Main stages

The following are this process’s primary phases:

1. Maintenance of KP.
2. Brill stove and sifting ash.
3. Coal load.
4. ROZZHIG.
5. Rus and air supply adjustment.
6. Rolting of coal.
7. Topping.

Maintenance of KP

The following are included in brick coal furnace maintenance:

• pre -season prevention and repair;
• monthly examinations in search of damage;
• quarterly cleaning of the smoke channels;
• Prevention and repair after the end of the heating season.

In order to prevent damage during the summer (pre-season), thoroughly inspect the furnace from the outside and, to the greatest extent feasible, the interior. Look for signs of damage such as:

• cracked bricks;
• crushed masonry solution;
• dangling doors or shutters;
• gaps of the pantry.

If such flaws are found, fix the furnace right away to get rid of them. Make sure to examine the stove traction and the smoke channels as well.

During the summer, a web frequently forms in the channels, exacerbating the craving. Additionally, it is said that a nest is located in the bird’s pipe, which further complicates the process of turning on the stove.

Recall that applying a solution outside alone won’t be sufficient if a lengthy crack that runs along the seam in the masonry develops and the solution moves away from the brick. This kind of flaw is ultimately a result of the furnace’s oven, which may arise from an inadequate design or an improper firebox.

In the first scenario, you will only need to seal the crack to the full depth of the seam once a year, or more frequently. In the second scenario, you will need to make changes during the furnace process in addition to sealing the crack.

Tighten the KP’s corps using a frame made of steel corners if you do not want to close this crack every year and do not have the ability to adjust the fuel or furnace mode. Together with joining the corners by welding, the furnace body is attached to the aluminum angles with a steel core.

The efficiency of such an improvement in the furnace can be increased by applying a stinging, that is, covering it with a tin casing beneath a frame or later plaster. Only clean the stove after it has cooled completely or at least 12 hours after the furnace has finished, as this will allow the inner surface of the channels to cool and stop burning you.

Conduct a thorough inspection of the furnace after the heating season ends and a day after the last furnace is finished. Then, clean the furnace and remove any defects found, whether they were found during the inspection or not. This type of repair is better than one done during the heating season because there won’t be any temperature exposure to the masonry solution, allowing it to dry out without losing strength.

Brill stove and sifting ash

Coal is converted during combustion into non-combustible slag and pyrolysis gases, the latter of which does not entirely fall through the grate.

Furthermore, practically all coal types are melted at temperatures between 300 and 600 degrees. The resulting melt is combined with slag and clogs the gaps in the grates. When the stove cools, the melted coal freezes and forms the strangest shapes.

Since the material in these sprinkled coals is the same as that of the original fuel, they can be drawn up during the next firebox; however, in order to do this, they need to be taken out of the grate and combined with fresh fuel.

Thus, the goal of cleaning the furnace chamber is to remove as much ash as possible and clear the grate of sprouting coals. To do this, use a poker, and finish the task right away before adding more fuel to the CP. If the pieces have cooled down sufficiently, you can remove the switched pieces using your hands or stove forceps.

Depending on the size of the grate cracks, unfinished coal pieces ranging in size from 5 to 15 mm may be found among the ash. If you use a suitable sieve and unload the outlet material into the fuel each time, you can save 5 to 15% of the stone fuel during the season.

Use a respirator and dustproof goggles when sifting the ash because the strong alkali in the slag can easily fly into the air and burn mucous surfaces.

Coal load

Coal is loaded into the brick furnace according to its method:

• Together with firewood;
• on flared firewood;
• after flogging with wood;
• after almost complete burning of the main laying of coal.

Together with firewood

This fuel should be laid along with firewood in a KP that has a top-to-bottom door. The primary benefit of this approach is that there is less smoke gas released into the building.

Another benefit of the method is that it uses the least amount of firewood possible. Four to six churok, each with a thickness of two to four centimeters, are sufficient to ignite stone or brown coal. This is particularly useful if you are unable to stab and place the firewood yourself and must hire someone to do it for you.

It will be necessary to figure out how to stack firewood beforehand, though, so that they can paint with just one match. To do this, plow the kindergarten, shut the door, and then adjust the thrust and air supply after the firewood flares up and starts to burn coal, which should take five to ten minutes.

Additionally, this method is not appropriate for people who obtain fuel cheaper than coal and who choose to fold and cut them themselves without hiring help. Ultimately, the expense of coal is substantial; in April 2023, a ton of "nut" delivered will cost 13,000 rubles, whereas large and slab material will cost 20,000 rubles.

On flared firewood

This technique is most common in villages where the stoves have detachable burners on the hob.

Observe the subsequent process concurrently:

• laid a small, but sufficient amount of firewood to create strong heat;
• set them on fire;
• After 10-15 minutes, depending on the traction and humidity/size, the chuckle, that is, when they flare up until the heat appears, remove the burner and fall asleep with a bucket;
• return to the place of the burner;
• regulate the thrust and supply of air, providing the optimal combustion of coal fuel.

After burning firewood

When firewood is the primary fuel source, this loading technique is employed; however, coal is added to keep the furnace’s and the heating panel’s body temperatures comfortable. This is best suited for the finest fuel—the "Sedochka" seed with tiny "nut" seeds scattered throughout.

This method of heating the KP follows the following algorithm of action:

• load the required amount of firewood into the fuel;
• finge it;
• regulate the traction/supply of air to ensure the most effective combustion;
• wait for the phase of the heat;
• put several thin chocks to light coal;
• fall in coal fuel;
• regulate the air supply and traction so that this fuel burns in smoldering mode.

After almost complete burning of the main laying of coal

Since the goal of this method is the same as that of the previous one, the action algorithm is fairly similar. The combustion of coal fuel, rather than firewood, is the sole reason for the heating of the CP’s body and heating shield.

A "seed" is thrown at once, or at first a few chuckles, and then coal fuel, depending on the temperature, when the latter starts to cool. By using traction and air supply, they push a fresh piece of coal to actively smolder. This prolongs the coal’s combustion for five to ten hours, continuously heating the CP’s body and the heating shield.

ROZZHIG

No matter how you lay the coal, you still need to make firewood first, and the bark that is removed from them works well for that. The procedure is described in greater detail in the article "How to drown a stove with wood."

Never ignite anything with gasoline or other combustible materials, with the exception of paraffin mixtures, which leave a thin layer of paraffin on the surface after drying.

Rus and air supply adjustment

Every stage of the furnace needs its own air supply and traction mode. Open all of the doors and valves during the ignition process. Excessive thrust will hasten the fire’s spread through traction, from where it will eventually spread to firewood.

If you use wood as the main fuel, then after the firewood is flared up, Cover the blown (blunt door, ash -free door), leaving the gap of about 1 cm. The amount of air entering through such a gap is enough for the calm, but hot burning of wood. Make a craving so that the stove works quietly, without buzzing and a roar, but without throwing smoke into the room.

Enough firewood will cover the shuttle (vyushka) needed for this, leaving a 3-centimeter space open. If you loaded firewood and coal fuel together, then push the vyushka so that the shift width is 4-5 cm and cover the blown area, leaving a gap of 2–5 cm (measure this experimentally as it depends on a number of factors).

After the "seed" has fallen asleep, cover the smoke pipe damper, leaving 1-2 cm, and the blowing door with a 5-mm slot.

Toring

Spokanability is dependent on a number of variables, such as the location of coal fuel production; nevertheless, coal basin material is inherent in all of them to some extent.

You must turn the material placed in the furnace if you remove a lot of spaced fragments during cleaning in front of a new firebox. This is because the molten mass clogs air supply gaps and lowers the amount of heat released during burning.

To accomplish this, level the surface of the combustible material by scraping the grate slits about an hour after laying the coal with a poker, and then allow it to burn until it almost completely extinguishes.

More thermal energy will be allocated to both whole and molten fragments as a result of the improved air flow that resulted from your actions. Before turning, fully open the oven damage and close the blower door to prevent the room from smelling bad. After the process is finished, move them back to a position that promotes the best possible fuel combustion.

The end of the furnace

The regime under which the KP operates directly affects this process. A noticeable reduction in the brightness of the glow visible through the blower door indicates that active combustion is taking place in the firebox. When it nearly disappears and is hardly perceptible, shut off the blower door entirely and cover the valve, leaving a 5-mm gap.

Drill two to three holes with a diameter of ten to fifteen millimeters if you don’t want to constantly adjusting the valve’s position to create the right amount of gap. This will enable you to securely close the valve without running the risk of carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide entering the building.

One firebox will end and another will begin if you add 1-4 kg of "seeds" to the furnace after the majority of the coal has burned. This is because air will constantly pass through the smoldering coals, heat up, and keep the heating panel at that temperature.

Use a poker to gently scrape the furnace to remove any ash and a sided molten mass that can fall on top of a fresh batch of fuel before adding more firewood and coal.

Heating your home with a coal stove offers a traditional and effective way to stay warm during cold months. These stoves are designed with features that allow for efficient combustion of coal, producing a steady and long-lasting heat. One of the main advantages is the cost-effectiveness of coal compared to other fuels. Additionally, coal stoves can provide a cozy ambiance with their visible flames. However, it"s important to consider the maintenance involved, as coal stoves require regular cleaning to remove ash and soot. Another point to note is the environmental impact; burning coal releases carbon dioxide and other emissions. Overall, while coal stoves have their benefits in terms of warmth and cost, they also come with responsibilities and environmental considerations that need to be taken into account.

Advantages and disadvantages of different types of fireboxes

With this material, there are only two types of furnaces:

1. Active.
2. "Rustic".

Active way

The heat from burning coal in the active firebox warms the heating shield and furnace, storing thermal energy that is released over an extended period of time.

This option’s primary benefits are:

• minimum number of operations;
• maximum safety;
• Minimum soot.

The primary drawbacks are:

• a large temperature difference between the tops (5-15 degrees);
• The increased fuel consumption caused by a large thermal inertia of brick, which manages to gain no more than half of the released thermal energy.

"Village" method

The following are some benefits of the furnace’s "village" method:

• the lower consumption of combustible material, provided with a more uniform and strong heating brick of the heating shield;
• more uniform heating of the furnace and shield;
• The minimum temperature difference between the tops (2-5 degrees).

Since he can only absorb half of the heat from the flux of smoke gases during active burning (1.5–2 hours), extending the exposure time of hot gases on the inner surface of the brick reduces the amount of fuel used.

With the exception of the first channel, also known as the "burning camera," where the temperature reaches 800 degrees, the flower gases traveling through the shield’s or the furnace’s body’s channels during active combustion are 300–500 degrees.

Simultaneously, by the time the furnace ends, the inner surface of the shield or channel’s bricks hardly ever reaches a temperature of more than 250 °C, though it can reach 500–900 °C in the vicinity of the furnace and first channel.

Seldom does the temperature retained by the furnace’s end—which is calculated by dividing the total temperature of the interior and exterior surfaces by two—rise above 150 degrees. Furthermore, the uneven heating goes away because all of the channels’ inner surfaces swiftly cool to the middle brick after the fire goes out.

Five hours after the furnace’s termination The temperature that is stored is lowered to a point where the heating shield reads 100 degrees, while the furnace and first channel register 250–300 degrees. The only way to alter this is to expose hot gases to more heat, but doing so will cause the firebox to overheat and burn.

When using a "rustic" stove, the maximum temperature of the interior surfaces of the smoke channels is lowered because a slightly smaller quantity of combustible material is used for the primary heating.

Nonetheless, a long-term thermal effect on bricks is caused by air flowing through the hot fuel chamber and the additional heat released by a smoldering "seed." As a result, five hours after the firebox ends, the stored temperature rises to a point between 150 and 200 degrees, virtually maintaining the same temperature as the outer surface where heat loss is dispersed.

Notwithstanding its many benefits, this furnace method has not gained widespread acceptance due to a number of serious drawbacks, the primary one being a high likelihood of carbon monoxide emissions into nearby buildings.

When burning at a low temperature Significantly less carbon is completely oxidized when pyrolysis gases are oxidized, which increases the amount of carbon monoxide produced. A stronger setting as a result of a lower smoke temperature during the main clan is the second drawback.

The chance of soot igniting and burning is inversely correlated with the temperature of the smoke traveling through the channels; that is, it is still significantly higher than in cases of intense protopation.

Is it possible to drown a wood with a coal furnace?

The answer to the question of whether such a stove can be drowned in coal is undoubtedly impossible because there are numerous types of wood furnaces in their homes, including lining furnaces. Examine your stove; if it has a lining, you can probably fill it with coal. Take care to remove one of the lining bricks to confirm this.

It is appropriate to operate on coal fuel if there is an air gap or heat insulator between the lining and the KP body; if not, there is a significant risk of damage. A stove that lacks an insulator or a space between the furnace’s body and lining is only appropriate for burning coal in the "rustic" manner, which isn’t always feasible because of the way it’s made.

Ultimately, the temperature of the outgoing gases from coal fuel is significantly higher, resulting in a higher thermal load on the burning chamber and the first channel. If the first channel’s cross section is smaller than two bricks (26 x 26 cm or 676 cm 2) and it is not lined, this design will probably not last long in a typical firebox because the first channel will overheat excessively.

Because it is rare for someone to clean their furnace once every three months, if the cross section of any of the channels is smaller than one brick (13×26 cm or 338 cm 2), they will rapidly grow soot when using the "rustic" method, which will cause a fall in the thrust in six months.

Without a fuel lining, the KP is essentially unfit for use on any type of stone coal, even brown coal.

Discussion on the forums

We offer to use the experience of visitors to various forums who discuss their experience using stone coal to heat houses and baths, since practice is the best way to verify any theory.

The following links lead to the most fascinating forum branches:

1. forum.IXBT.Com.
2. m.E1.ru/f.
3. Forumbani.ru.
4. www.Russianam.ru.
5. Stroiteli.Info.
6. Diesel.Elcat.KG.
7. www.Bolshoyvopros.ru.

Video on the topic

This video roller explains how to properly and affordably heat the stove using coal:

Features of the Furnace	Advantages and Disadvantages
1. Design	Advantage: Coal stoves often have a simple and durable design, making them long-lasting.
Disadvantage: Some designs may require more frequent maintenance.
2. Heat Output	Advantage: Coal stoves can produce high heat output, warming up large spaces effectively.
Disadvantage: Heat output can be harder to control compared to other heating methods.
3. Fuel Efficiency	Advantage: Coal is a relatively cheap fuel source and can burn for long periods.
Disadvantage: Storage and handling of coal can be messy and require more effort.
4. Environmental Impact	Advantage: Burning coal can produce consistent heat with fewer emissions when compared to wood.
Disadvantage: Coal is a non-renewable resource and can contribute to pollution when burned.

Using a coal stove for home heating has its own special charm and advantages. An exceptional quality of a coal stove is how well it produces heat. Unlike many other heating fuels, coal burns hotter and longer, keeping your house toasty warm even on the coldest winter evenings.

The affordability of utilizing a coal stove is an additional benefit. Even though the upfront cost could be somewhat more than with some other heating options, there can be substantial long-term savings. In the long run, coal will cost you less to heat your home than electricity, oil, or natural gas because it is frequently more affordable.

Still, it’s critical to recognize the drawbacks as well. For coal stoves to function effectively and safely, regular maintenance is necessary. It is necessary to routinely remove ash from the stove and check for any indications of wear and tear. Furthermore, burning coal can result in higher emissions than using other fuels, so it might not be the best choice for people who are worried about the environment.

In conclusion, if you live in an area where coal is easily accessible and reasonably priced, heating your home with a coal stove can be a sensible and cost-effective option. A coal stove can reliably supply warmth and comfort to your home during the winter with the right upkeep. To decide if a coal stove is the best option for your heating needs, consider the advantages and disadvantages as you would with any heating system.

Video on the topic

How best to drown a household stove with coal

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How to drown a furnace with coal (boiler).

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