How to fold the stove correctly

Few things compare to the comfort of a well-built stove when it comes to keeping your house warm and comfortable. The right way to fold a stove is crucial, whether you plan to use it as your main source of heat or just enjoy the ambience it creates. It not only guarantees effective heating but also fosters safety in your house.

Even though folding a stove correctly is more about technique than complexity, the task may seem overwhelming at first. It involves comprehending the fundamentals of heat distribution, combustion, and airflow. We’ll take you step-by-step through the process of folding your stove in this guide, from selecting the appropriate supplies to becoming an expert wood stacker.

Choosing the right fuel is one of the essential steps in folding a stove. The rates at which different types of wood burn and the amount of heat they produce vary. Hardwoods that burn hotter and longer, like oak and maple, are great for long-term heating sessions or overnight fires. Conversely, softwoods, such as pine, burn more slowly and are ideal for warming a space rapidly. You can maximize the performance of your stove by being aware of the qualities of each type of wood.

For your stove to burn fuel efficiently and produce heat, there must be adequate airflow. It’s crucial to build a sturdy log base for your stove when folding it so that air can flow freely from the bottom to the top. By doing this, the fire is guaranteed to burn steadily and uniformly, producing the least amount of smoke and producing the most heat. Understanding how to arrange your logs can have a big impact on how well your stove operates.

It’s important to think about the size and positioning of your wood pieces in addition to positioning your logs for the best possible airflow. A combination of larger logs for continuous heat and smaller pieces for rapid ignition is ideal. Larger logs will ignite more quickly if smaller pieces are placed close to the center of the fire, resulting in a longer-lasting burn. You can keep your stove’s fire balanced and effective by layering your wood carefully.

You can maximize energy savings and environmental impact while still enjoying warmth and comfort in your home by learning the proper way to fold a stove. A warm atmosphere that endures throughout the winter months can be created with the correct methods and careful attention to detail. As you prepare to fold your stove like a pro, grab your firewood!

Choosing a place for the stove

Construction-wise, the following prerequisites must be met in order to select the ideal location for the stove:

• The distance between the wooden structures and the chimney must be at least 37 cm
• To obtain a good draft in the furnace chimney must be located in compliance with the minimum distance from the ridge – 1.5 meters and the minimum height above it – 0.5 meters
• If the chimney is located 1.5-3 meters from the ridge, it can be flush with it
• If this distance exceeds 3 meters, the pipe can be lower, but between the slope and the line connecting the top of the pipe and the slope, there should be an angle of no more than 10 °

Because each has distinct natural precipitation conditions, the foundations of the stove and the building cannot be combined.

When designing a dacha house with a stove, the location should be decided upon. To ensure that the heat reaches the nearby rooms, it is preferable to place the furnace in the center of the house.

Drawing up the plot layout is as important as drawing up the house. Go here to learn how a country plot is laid out. You can effectively arrange every thought-out object on a small plot as long as the space is well-planned.

Initial materials

Brick, clay, and sand are the most frequently used materials in the furnace’s construction.

The best option in this situation is ceramic brick, which is used for facing, masonry, and the "booting" (the interior space of the furnace). It is advised to go with M-500 grade. This brick is more resilient to numerous heating and cooling cycles and is more homogeneous. While lesser grades will crumble during such processing, higher grades can be easily molded to create decorative elements.

Brick should be evenly red in color and have a moderate level of calcined surface; when tapped, it should produce a metallic ringing sound. Overcooked bricks are brown with reddish undertones, while undercooked bricks are pale pink in color and sound muffled.

Ordinary, red, or fireproof clay can be used to make mortar; the type chosen will depend on the brick being used. Fine sand with particles as small as 1 mm is used as a filler. To ensure ideal masonry conditions, the ready mortar needs to be sufficiently plastic (or "fat").

Because the fat content of natural clay varies, experience is needed to determine the ideal ratio of mortar components. It is typically 1:2 or 1:1. Twenty-five percent of the clay’s volume is absorbed as water.

It is advised to roll the mortar into a ball and let it dry in order to assess its quality. Everything is good if it is not cracked, crumbles when calcined, and does not break when dropped from a height of one meter.

Metal parts

Typically, ovens contain metal parts:

• Doors and half-doors (blower, furnace, purge, view)
• Spike grates
• Cast iron flaps
• Cast iron dampers and vents
• Plates

One can buy or manufacture auxiliary furnace equipment on their own using steel sheets that meet the necessary thickness requirements.

Necessary tools

Special tools will be required to complete the work:

• Stove hammer
• Ruler-rule
• Trowel (trowel)
• Brush
• Weight (plumb line)
• Roulette
• Level

Features of stove masonry

The typical smaller joint width is not the case with stove masonry:

• Up to 5 mm – for ordinary bricks
• Up to 3 mm – under fireclay

Arches and vaults must be laid out in order for the furnace to be constructed. Wooden templates that are appropriate for this purpose are installed inside the building. When the task is finished, they should be simple to disassemble and remove. When building a Russian stove, vaults podpechka and crucible are arranged according to these templates. They make building semicircular elements out of bricks without having to trim them much easier.

Foundation for the furnace

The furnace requires a strong foundation because it is a fairly large and heavy structure. It is constructed concurrently with the building of the house’s foundation. Underneath the stove, a monolithic shallow-deposited slab is typically used. which is arranged in line with the typical plan:

1. The pit is dug
2. Sand backfill is installed
3. A reinforced frame is created
4. Concrete is poured

Furnace masonry

A set of drawings with ordering schemes and brick placements are prepared prior to beginning the masonry. When working, the arrangement must be closely followed because even a small deviation can lead to channel overlapping, and fixing the error will need disassembling the furnace entirely.

The first row is laid on a cord that has to have the rectangularity controlled by measuring the diagonals, which must equal one another. A level placed on the rule is used to ensure that all succeeding rows are horizontal, and the rule itself is used to verify that the masonry’s sides are straight. A plumb line in two planes is used to control the corners.

Bricks are first "dry" laid in the new row at a distance equal to the joint’s thickness. Kelmoy then took up the mortar, placed it in the corner brick’s place, and leveled it to seal the space according to the brick’s size. Each brick is submerged in a bucket of water before being laid, and it is left there until the bubbles stop.

To achieve the desired joint thickness, bricks are placed on the mortar, manually compressed, and tapped with a trowel. After the mortar has been squeezed out, it is trimmed, and a plumb line in two planes is used to ensure proper laying. The process of installing bricks one after the other is essentially the same, but you must fill in the vertical joints and mortar.

There are several methods for laying masonry for stoves, including "in a brick," "in half a brick," "in a quarter," and using multiple masons. It is required to tie corners by switching between half-brick and quarter-brick masonry. Trimming is another way to accomplish dressing.

Plastering the inner surface of flue ducts and chimneys is not advised because it can clog the passageways and worsen the heat exchange between the stove walls and gases. Throughout the masonry process, the channels’ smooth, clean surface is maintained by wiping it with a damp washcloth.

Brick can be used anywhere. It is employed in the building of both massive houses and smaller constructions, like gazebos. For outdoor recreation with friends and family, brick pergolas are ideal. A gazebo like this is also a lovely addition to a landscape design.

Install a brazier or barbecue in brick pergolas frequently. We advise you to read this article to become familiar with building a pergola with a brazier by hand.

Pergola roofs with braziers need to be as fireproof as possible. Here, we conducted a comparison study between metal and ondulin tiles. Based on this article, metal tiles work well with a pergola that has a brazier.

Installation of stove equipment

Installing stove appliances is part of the masonry process. Because the coefficients of linear expansion of brick and metal differ, the openings for metal components should be marginally bigger than the elements themselves. It is crucial that the stove components match the measurements given in the specifications exactly. If they are not followed, the ordering will change, and it will be very challenging to remove the "error" in the following rows without the necessary experience.

It is necessary to leave approximately 5 mm of space on the cast-iron stove’s sides. They are sealed with a clay mortar mixed with crumbs of asbestos. Four holes are provided in the frame for soft steel wire, which is required to secure the firebox door. Wire segments are double-folded, twisted, and their ends are inserted into the masonry joints. The same asbestos mortar is used to fill the tiny space that remains between the frame and the bricks.

The blowpipe door is installed tightly, but the purge door and blowpipe are fixed in the same manner. Five millimeter gaps are left all around the grate to allow for easy removal.

Laying the chimney

Nearly the same layout applies to the chimney and stove. You only need to pay extra attention to where the attic flooring passes through. Here, keeping the fire distance is imperative: the wooden structures and the chimney’s inner wall must be at least 0.38 meters apart. By overhanging the masonry by a quarter of a brick in a new row, the outer wall of the chimney can be progressively expanded while maintaining an identical inner channel cross-section.

Any unfamiliar structure must be built correctly by adhering to the prescribed instructions. Stencils, which are pictures and descriptions of the placement of bricks and metal components in the structure’s body, are used as guidelines for installing stoves. It is very feasible to assemble any type of furnace on your own if you follow their advice, adhere to masonry principles, and use the "right" materials.

Video on how to build a stove with your own hands step by step

How to construct a basic stove by hand

Installing a stove for cooking and heating

Methods for assembling a Russian stove by hand

How to construct a Swedish stove by hand

10.10.2014 в 20:34

Since our rural home is, regrettably, extremely cold, the furnace problem was of utmost importance to us. In order to identify the best and most appropriate technology, many sources were long studied. This article is where we stopped. We meticulously examined every facet, viewed films, perused supplementary materials, created sketches, purchased supplies, and constructed a first-rate furnace ourselves. It functions well, and we were able to get by without expert assistance. We strongly advise applying these pointers.

10.10.2014, at 01:47

Prior to visiting the village, I just so happened to be on this location. And there, celebrating the gas that was just thrown out of the house a few years ago, along with the oven (which was replaced by a stove) and even my favorite bed (why is it heated by gas, anyway)! However, subsequent political developments have adjusted in the warm winter using gas of their own. Reconstruction was something that needed to be considered. I rewatched the video and felt as though everything was obvious, but as soon as I held a trowel, my confidence vanished. Holding out for the stove.

13.10.2014 в 22:48

Last year my husband built a country house with his own hands, and we also had a question about building a furnace. What a pity that then we did not come across this article, we collected, as they say, from a piece of thread. And in the end invited a professional to evaluate the work already done and if anything, to make adjustments. We assembled it from ceramic bricks and ordinary clay, it turned out not bad. At first we needed the furnace was more for beauty and comfort, but now, in the cold fall, it has become a real salvation. I"m sure that in winter we will not freeze either.

13.10.2014, at 00:36

That being said, there isn’t anything especially difficult about building a furnace yourself. I want to stress that the design is simple. I completed it myself, but for the bathhouse, I had a straightforward design that has been working well up to this point. However, I still called a professional stoveman because a big stove requires skilled hands.

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Build a stove with your own hands step-by-step instructions

It is a fact that many owners cannot imagine a private home without a furnace, even with the abundance of heating and cooking appliances available today. The furnace will not be unnecessary even if it is intended to build an autonomous heating system. For instance, when full-fledged heating is no longer required in the spring or fall, to save money, but also to prevent mold growth from growing in the house due to excessive dampness. The rooms can be kept at the ideal humidity and heat balance by heating the stove once or twice a day.

Step-by-step instructions for building a furnace yourself

Step-by-step instructions with complex configurations to build a furnace by hand will be challenging for a novice. Consequently, it is best to select an approachable version of the arrangement that will be simple to comprehend if there is no prior experience in the furnace industry.

When selecting a model, take into account not only how straightforward the layout is, but also how much heat the stove produces and how functional it is—some stoves aren’t fully functional. The heating structure’s chosen heat output is determined by the area it is intended to heat.

There are many different types of stoves because skilled stove makers can customize the design of any one of them, leading to the creation of ever-new stove variations. And in order to arrive at a stove type, you must be aware of its functional characteristics.

Types of brick ovens

There are three primary varieties of brick stoves: those that combine cooking and heating, those that only heat and do not have any built-in components.

• A heating and cooking stove can have not only a cooking hob, but also an oven and a tank for warming water, as well as a drying niche. In addition, such a structure can heat one or two rooms of a certain size.

An illustration of a cooking and heating stove

These ovens are frequently integrated into the wall, with the back wall facing the living room and the cooking plate and firebox facing the kitchen. As a result, the oven serves three purposes: it can be used to cook, create partitions, and supply dry heat to a living room or bedroom.

• A heating stove works only for heating, and most often has a compact size. It is installed precisely in order to maintain the balance of moisture and heat in the house in the fall or spring, when it is too early to turn on autonomous heating or has not yet turned on the central heating.

Small heating stove featuring a window for the fireplace

Installing a stove like this is beneficial, particularly in rural areas where there may be a cooking appliance. It is preferable to install a cooking stove in a building even if the dacha settlement’s power supply is frequently cut off.

• The cooking version of the stove can also serve for heating, if you need to heat a small area. The device is perfect for a summer house or for a small building for permanent residence.

A tiny room can also be heated by the cooking stove.

If you have a stove like that and enough firewood on hand, you won’t have to worry about the house getting damp and cold or the family going without hot tea or dinner in the event of a gas or power outage.

It should be remembered that stoves can be large or small. The size of the room or house, as well as the amount of space available for construction, will determine the stove’s size.

Choosing where to install the stove

When deciding where to install a stove, it’s crucial to take into account the little details that affect both fire safety and the creation of comfortable working conditions. When constructing a house, it is crucial to take into account the stove’s placement because the chimney pipe shouldn’t cross over the roof rafters or the attic floor joists.

The stove can be built into the inside wall of the house, placed in the center of the room, or installed at the inner bearing wall.

• It is not recommended to erect the furnace near the outer wall, as it will quickly cool down, and the efficiency from its use will be significantly reduced.
• In the middle of a large room, a stove is installed if it is necessary to divide the room into two zones. All the more – with a beautiful decorative finish it will become a decoration of the house and can become for the interior one of the elements that will emphasize a certain style.
• Building the furnace in the partition between rooms, you must be sure to provide for its insulation from combustible materials of the wall, using heat-resistant sheets of asbestos or special gypsum board.
• The space allocated for the stove must be larger than its base by 120 ÷ 150 mm in each direction, as the perimeter of the foundation is always slightly larger than the size of the stove.
• To make it easier to determine the dimensions, it is necessary to choose a model that has a layout diagram attached to it.

Once the model and installation location have been decided upon, you can go ahead and buy the supplies and get all the tools you’ll need. Each model has its own selection of materials in terms of quantity and variety, but the laying tools are always the same.

Tools for carrying out the work

The following equipment and tools are required for the furnace’s erection process:

The typical toolkit of a skilled stove maker

A) Brick is split and chipped with a pickaxe.

B) A stove hammer performs the same tasks as a pickaxe and makes it easy to get rid of dried mortar that is visible through the masonry.

B) The concrete on the foundation’s surface is leveled using a rule. Making it oneself from a perfectly flat planed board is not unheard of.

D) The clay mortar is rubbed and stirred with a wooden trowel.

E) In order to maintain the evenness of the rows, a level is an essential tool. both in a vertical and horizontal manner.

E) Sand and hardened mortar are removed from the inside surfaces of the kiln using a whisk.

G) To install and fix cast-iron building components, pliers are used to bite and bend steel wire.

H) When using lead scribe to finish the kiln with tiles, marking is done.

I) A knocker is a fitting for tiles made of pipe.

K) A marking drawing rod.

L) Rasp is used to remove buildup from completed masonry and lap lumps.

M) To create 90-degree inside and outside corners, a construction angle is required.

H) A plumb bob is used to measure a wall’s verticality.

O) Bricks arranged in a row are tapped with a rubber mallet.

P) To split the bricks and break up old masonry, you’ll need a chisel.

R) During masonry work, excess mortar is removed with trowels and applied to the brick rows.

C) If the kiln is not lined with finishing material but the joints between the rows are to be tastefully decorated, a jointer will be required.

If you are going to make your own mortar, you will also require two mortar and water containers in addition to a sieve for sand.

If there are "girders," it will be simpler to lay the upper rows.

Work should be done conveniently by using a scaffolding, also called a "gantry." Standing atop them to perform masonry tasks at an elevated height is a convenient option, particularly since the platform’s dimensions allow for the installation of a mortar container.

Building a foundation for the stove

• The foundation for the furnace is usually laid together with the general foundation for the entire structure, but they should not be connected to each other, since in the case of deformation or shrinkage, one of them can damage the other.
• If the stove is to be built in a house with a wooden floor already built on a strip or pillar foundation, it will be necessary to remove the covering and build a base for the stove from the ground.
• If a compact model of stove is chosen and a slab foundation is installed under the house, the heating structure can be built directly on it. making a waterproofing lining.

An approximate layout of the furnace base

Should the foundation still need to be set up "from scratch," keep in mind that it should resemble the oven’s base in shape but extend an additional 120 to 150 mm on each side.

• The contour of the foundation is marked out on the wooden floor, a part of the boarding is cut out according to the markings.
• Next, in the soil of the sub-floor is dug an excavation of the required size, depth of 450÷500 mm.
• The soil at the bottom of the excavation is well tamped, and on it is made sand backfill, which is wetted with water and also tamped to a thickness of 80÷100 mm.

The "cushion" of sand and gravel used during the stove foundation excavation.

• After that, on the perimeter of the excavation can be laid roofing felt, which will act as a waterproofing and formwork, if it is temporarily reinforced with boards or bricks. After the concrete mortar hardens, the formwork is removed from the foundation.

Use a formwork composed of boards covered from the inside with a polyethylene sheet in place of roofing felt.

Immediately notice that it is preferable to have the stove’s concrete base 70 × 100 mm above the ground. By doing this, you can simplify the joint between the foundation side walls and the floor surface while also saving bricks.

• A layer of crushed stone of the same thickness is poured on top of the sand and is also well compacted.
• The next step is to place a reinforcement grid at the bottom of the excavation. made of metal wire or ready-made mesh. The elements of the lattice are connected with each other with the help of twisting from wire.

Strengthening the base – an alternative

• The first layer of mortar is poured into the prepared pit. It can consist of crushed stone, sand and cement – 1:2:1 or gravel and cement 3:1. This layer should occupy approximately ⅓ of the space to be filled.
• After pouring the first layer, immediately mix and pour the second one, consisting of sand and cement in proportions 3:1.

In order to leave room for the upper leveling foundation, 50 mm is left at the top of the second layer when it is poured.

Expandable formwork can be used for the top layer of concrete if needed. A 70×80 mm reinforcing mesh can then be laid on top of the poured mortar.

Reinforcement of the foundation’s upper layer

• Then the last top layer of mortar is poured and leveled with the help of a rule.

The concrete is allowed to mature on the foundation for a period of 27–30 days. To help the concrete become more durable and monolithic, it is preferable to wet it with water every day and then cover it with a polyethylene film.

The foundation is left in place until the concrete reaches its full maturity.

Following the formwork removal, two to three layers of roofing felt are laid on the ready foundation to shield the stove’s brickwork from capillary moisture that may enter from the ground or the cellar.

You can then proceed to the most important task, which is installing the stove.

A few recommendations for masonry work

• Before you start laying bricks on the mortar, the entire structure is lifted out of the brick dry, but each of the rows must necessarily be laid out strictly in accordance with the scheme-ordering.

First-time stove builders are advised by preliminary laying dry experienced stove builders to all masters who undertake stove construction. By taking this measurement, you can ensure that all internal channels are located correctly and that you don’t make any major mistakes when placing the bricks in each row.

You must have a lot of wooden laths on hand to complete the masonry dry. These will control the brick-to-brick seam thickness. Their typical thickness is 5 x 7 mm. The primary masonry, which has already been completed with mortar, will require the use of the same lath. If the masonry is constructed "under the decking," this "calibration" of the seam thickness is extremely important and has to be precise.

We proceed cautiously and slowly through this process because it’s critical to comprehend how the smoke enters the chimney and exits the furnace.

• Having lifted the structure dry before the beginning of the masonry pipe, it is carefully disassembled. If the bricks were simultaneously adjusted in size, then each row can be put in a separate pile, marking on the bricks with a marker the number of the row and the place in it .
• When making the main masonry, each of the rows is also first laid out to dry, and then, after careful adjustment of all parts, mounted on the mortar.
• When the main masonry will be made, on the edges of the previous row put two measuring laths to maintain the exact thickness of the seam. Then the mortar is applied in a layer of 10÷12 mm. Bricks are laid on top of the mortar, pressed down and, if necessary, tapped with a rubber mallet until the brick rests on the measuring lath. The excess mortar is picked up with a trowel.

Techniques for masonry and jointing

• The laths are pulled out of the masonry after the third ÷ fourth row is installed over them, and then used once again. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare several pairs of these auxiliary elements.
• After pulling out the laths, the joints are carefully filled with mortar and immediately "expand".
• Carrying out masonry on the mortar, each of the rows check with a construction level for compliance with the horizontal and vertical planes.

Following these details will make the process of erecting any furnace easier and help prevent "fatal" errors that could necessitate starting over from scratch.

Heating and cooking oven with a drying chamber of the Yu design. Proskurina

Stoves come in a multitude of models, as was previously mentioned. This article will discuss a small-space, energy-efficient solution that can be installed in a small house, as it can heat a 16 by 17-meter room without taking up much room.

The stove’s design Yu. Proskurina is a two-turn cooking and heating model with a drying chamber for fruits and vegetables, mushrooms, and other items, as well as a single burner stove. ο.

Stove for cooking and heating Yu. Proskurina equipped with a drying room

If preferred. The drying chamber’s recess can accommodate an oven box of the right size.

The oven measures 750 x 630 x 2070 mm (without including the height of the chimney). With 1700 kcal/h, it produces heat. The fact that the design has two operating modes—summer and winter—is crucial for fuel economy and for enabling the stove to be heated and food to be cooked without overheating the building during the summer.

List of necessary materials

The following supplies are required to build such a heating structure:

Elements and materials names

How to build a brick stove for a house or summer cottage

The traditional wood-fired brick oven is still one of the most widely used forms of heating for homes, including country and private ones, garages, and other outbuildings, even with the advancement of new technologies. However, even the most basic stove requires a large financial investment to build, so many homeowners are curious about whether and how best to do it themselves.

This material explains how to properly assemble a basic brick oven, intended for heating a house or summer cottage, with their own hands in order to help them save money on construction.

Choosing a stove project

It’s no secret that there are innumerable wood-burning brick stove projects, and stove artisans are always creating new models. It will therefore be difficult to select one among them for someone who has chosen to learn the fundamentals of stove making. As a result, you should respond to the following inquiries with clarity first:

1. What tasks should solve the brick oven in your house, it will be only heating or you will need to use it to cook food and heat water?
2. How much space you are ready to allocate for the construction of the stove when building a new house?
3. If the dacha or house is already erected, then you need to think about the location of the heater and the passage of the slabs with a chimney pipe. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the device of a separate foundation.
4. Decide in advance with the design, perhaps you wish to build a fireplace stove with panoramic glass.

Advice. Initially, a novice should not attempt to install a large brick oven in the house. Instead, they should start with a small, easy project in the yard, like a barbecue or grill. These types of projects are frequently published. As a result of your practice and hand strength, you will be able to grasp the subtleties of this work and start building a home heater with greater assurance.

Diagram of a brazier outside with lockers

To an ignorant person, of course, it is unlikely that you will succeed in building a beautiful stove with built-in panoramic glass with your own hands right away. Ultimately, though, you can always ask a baker to handle these tasks and provide advice. These individuals are usually kindhearted since building a home hearth should always be done with soul. Regarding the project selection, you have three easy choices:

• A conventional 2-burner stove with a tank for heating water;
• channel heating stove – Dutch;
• heating and cooking stove of classic design.

Cooking stove with a water boiler

With its 890 x 510 mm dimensions, this stove is meant to cook while simultaneously heating water in a tank that is positioned in the furnace’s flue gas stream. When storing firewood twice a day, the stove produces 1.2 kW of heat overall. The following stove is displayed in a cutaway drawing:

Constructed by hand, this compact brick oven is easy to assemble and will occupy a small amount of kitchen space. It can then have a heating panel attached to it in order to absorb additional heat from the flue gases. The stove staging is depicted in the masonry diagram below:

If you want to construct the cooking stove yourself, you’ll need to buy the stove fittings and the following materials beforehand:

• full-body ceramic bricks – 185 pcs.;
• 2 burner cast iron stove 530 x 180;
• 250 x 250 grates (cast iron or steel grate);
• fuel stove door 250 x 210, ash pan door 130 x 140, revision door 130 x 140;
• equal-sided angle 30 x 4 – 3.6 м;
• oven 320 x 270 x 400;
• water tank 150 x 350 x 450.

Note: The measurements of the materials and fittings are listed here and below in millimeters.

The lining beneath the oven will also require roofing steel and asbestos sheet measuring 115 by 64 cm, and a metal sheet measuring 50 by 70 cm will be required to be placed on the floor in front of the stove.

Duct Dutch oven

The picture depicts a traditional duct-type heating stove that originates from Holland. Its benefits include its ease of use and low-maintenance material quality. Moreover, the stove’s body can be assembled to any height, heating rooms across two stories. Furthermore, because the Dutch oven occupies so little room in the layout, it is safe to refer to it as a mini stove.

The simplest Dutch stove for three channels, as illustrated in the drawing below, is not too difficult for an experienced craftsman to make. A novice will need to put in a lot of effort to create high-quality masonry with the plan’s dimensions of 1010 x 510 mm and reach a height of more than 2 m plus the chimney. However, it is advised that you become acquainted with the brick oven’s laying scheme and staging first:

The following supplies will be needed for building:

• full-body ceramic brick – 390 pcs.;
• grates 250 x 250 (cast iron or steel grate);
• fuel stove door 250 x 210, ash pan door 140 x 140, revision door 140 x 140;
• metal gate valve 130 x 130;
• asbestos sheet 1000 x 500;
• the same sheet of roofing steel.

Heating and cooking stove

Even though this heat source looks like a Dutch oven on the outside, it has a more complicated design. Measuring 650 by 510 mm, its developing heat capacity is approximately 1.5 kW. Given that the brick oven’s name means "heating and cooking," it should be clear that its purpose extends beyond simply cooking food. The figure depicts the construction scheme:

Diagrammatic schematic of the integrated stove

Important point. It is apparent from a close examination of the scheme that this straightforward design does not account for the summer mode of operation.

This implies that if the stove is inside the house, cooking food on it during the summer will be hot. You’ll need to cook differently or decide on a project with a better heat source. For homeowners who are not ashamed of this fact, here is a list of supplies and methods for building a brick oven:

• full-body ceramic bricks – 211 pcs.;
• 1 burner cast iron stove 360 x 410;
• grates 250 x 250;
• fuel door 250 x 210, ashtray door 130 x 140, revision door 130 x 140, ventilation door 130 x 75;
• equal-sided angle 32 x 4 – 300 mm;
• gate valve 140 x 140;
• knitting wire with a diameter of 1.5 – 5 м.

What bricks should be used to build the oven

Red ceramic brick grade 150, which is formed of fired clay, is the primary building material used to construct the furnace. Its dimensions are standard, measuring 250 x 120 x 65 mm, though other stones were once made for kiln construction. However, all of the measurements are now consistent, meaning that the dimensions are the same as usual, even for fireclay (refractory) brick, which is frequently used to layout the stove’s fuel compartment.

Although 88 mm high stone is still used in construction, its voids make it unsuitable for laying ovens. However, in this case, only full-body material devoid of voids and cracks is necessary. For the latter, each unit needs to be carefully inspected because the work calls for high-quality brick. Indeed, there is one exception: a Dutch oven made of lower-quality stones can be laid. However, you shouldn’t go to absurdity because a heat source composed of cobblestones won’t actually warm up.

The truth is that even when the masonry mortar is just drying, the heating and cooking oven, which they constructed by hand out of cheap red bricks, may collapse. It should be remembered that unlike cement mortar, clay mortar dries instead of hardening. It is therefore advised against beginners experimenting with damaged or old bricks, as this will necessitate quick repairs for the newly constructed furnace.

Using fireclay stone, create a firebox

Regarding the masonry mortar, there is another recommendation. Going to the closest ravine for clay is not necessary at first because it still needs to be brought to the proper condition. For masonry stoves, it is preferable to purchase pre-made construction mixtures like clay or fireclay.

How to properly build a furnace

The foundation for the future heat source is usually where construction begins. The only possible exception would be outdoor mini-stoves, which are occasionally set down right on the yard’s concrete screed due to their small weight. Every other one, wherever it may be placed, needs to be built upon a sturdy foundation. Additionally, it is not permitted to connect or arrange the furnace’s foundation close to the base of the house; instead, you must leave at least a 5-centimeter (ideally a 10-centimeter) space.

Vital. After a year or two, if this requirement isn’t met, the stove might crack and possibly veer off vertical.

The masonry can begin directly from the screed after asbestos and roofing steel sheets have been laid, provided the house has a sound foundation in the form of a cement screed and the furnace’s total weight does not exceed 750 kg. Because the structures discussed in the previous section weigh more than 750 kg, a sturdy foundation must be built for them. There are two types of furnace foundations: brown and reinforced concrete.

Whatever kind of foundation you choose, you must first dig a pit that is 10 cm larger on each side than the stove’s surface area. The foundation sole should rest on a denser layer, and the depth is determined by the thickness of the top layer of chernozem or other sagging soil. In the first instance, dressing rubble is placed over the excavation using a mortar made of the following ingredients:

• sand – 6 parts;
• cement – 1 part;
• lime mixed with water – 1 part.

This mortar is used to level the upper portion, which is 80 mm below the floor, and to fill in all the spaces between the stones. A 10-cm-thick crushed stone cushion is poured at the bottom of the pit before the reinforced concrete base is filled in using formwork and reinforcing mesh.

It is crucial. A waterproofing barrier composed of two layers of roofing felt should be applied to the foundation after the mortar or concrete has hardened.

Masonry in furnaces is installed following the lines and with a tolerance of 3-5 mm for joint thickness. Once each row is laid, a construction level and a plumb line must be used to ensure proper vertical and horizontal alignment. Brick mortar can be applied manually or with a trowel, and after the stone is in place, it is permissible to give it a little tap.

After cleaning the inner side of the wall with a damp rag to produce a smoother surface, the mortar residue is removed from both sides of the wall. In order to minimize resistance to flue gases, this is being done.

Make sure there are no spaces between the metal surface and the masonry when installing water tanks and fittings. The joints need to be carefully filled with mortar to prevent the stove from smoking. After construction is finished, you must wait two days for the solution to dry completely. Only then can you build a trial furnace using a small quantity of firewood. The video shows you how to assemble a small stove at home in detail:

We concentrate on the crucial actions to guarantee the effective and secure functioning of your stove in our guide on "How to Fold the Stove Correctly" for heating and insulating your home. To maximize heat output while reducing fuel consumption and environmental impact, the stove must be folded correctly. Important topics like choosing the appropriate wood, arranging it inside the stove correctly, preserving ideal airflow, and following safety precautions will all be covered. By adhering to these recommendations, you’ll support sustainability and energy efficiency in addition to keeping your house warm.

What can be painted stove

It is obvious that the new master’s inexperience will prevent him from assembling a lovely stove on his first attempt. However, this is a fixable issue because painting can be used to create the brick wall’s exterior facing. There are now easier and more convenient ways to do it than the traditional method of plastering and applying two coats of whitewash made of chalk or lime. Lime also requires constant renewal and is easily transferred to clothing by accident.

When it comes to painting a brick oven, the following options are available:

• Organosilicon heat-resistant enamel of KO brand, designed for high temperatures;
• silicate or acrylic paints;
• heat-resistant varnish (for example, PF-238) mixed with colorant.

The transparent enamel variants KO-85, KO-174, and KO-813 are the most preferred. Given that it can withstand temperatures of up to 600 °C, it can be used for both painting metal parts and the stove itself. Although silicate and acrylic paints are less expensive, they won’t last as long. As seen in the picture, you can also paint the stove with transparent varnish PF-238 or combine it with gouache to get the desired color:

In any event, two coats of the coating are applied; the second coat is applied after the first has dried. A roller and brush are the instruments used. A unique primer made for such uses should be applied to the preliminary surface.

Step 1:	Clear the area around the stove and make sure it"s clean.
Step 2:	Place newspaper or kindling at the bottom of the stove for airflow.
Step 3:	Stack small pieces of dry wood on top of the newspaper in a crisscross pattern.
Step 4:	Light the newspaper or kindling at the bottom to start the fire.
Step 5:	Once the fire is burning well, add larger pieces of wood gradually.
Step 6:	Keep the stove door slightly open until the fire is strong, then close it.
Step 7:	Adjust the air vents to control the intensity of the fire.

To maximize a stove’s efficiency and guarantee the security of your house, fold it correctly. You can design a well-functioning stove that minimizes energy waste and efficiently heats your space by following a few easy steps.

First and foremost, choosing the appropriate materials for your stove is crucial. Choose fire-resistant materials that can tolerate high temperatures or premium bricks. Although durable materials may initially cost more, they will save money over time by giving your stove better insulation and a longer lifespan.

Take special note of the layout and design when folding your stove. Make sure the stove is built in a way that allows for effective heat distribution and airflow throughout your house. Maintaining a healthy indoor environment and preventing smoke buildup depend on proper ventilation.

To stop heat loss, make sure to seal any gaps or cracks in the stove. Your stove’s efficiency can be greatly decreased by even tiny gaps, which will increase the amount of energy it uses. To ensure a seamless seal and firmly hold the bricks together, use high-temperature mortar or sealant.

Maintaining the best possible condition for your stove requires routine maintenance. Check the stove for wear and tear on a regular basis and fix any damage right away. Regular cleaning of the stove is necessary to get rid of ash and debris, which can cause problems and even start a fire.

These instructions will help you fold a stove that will not only heat your house efficiently but also help save energy and protect the environment. Always put safety first, and seek professional advice if you have any questions about any aspect of stove folding or maintenance.

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