How to fold the heating-welding Swedish stove

Few options compare to the charm and dependability of a Swedish stove when it comes to heating your home in an efficient and sustainable manner. These small but effective heaters, which are Scandinavian in origin, are well-known all over the world for their capacity to produce heat for extended periods of time with little fuel consumption. A special technique for stacking and welding firebricks is used to build Swedish stoves, which are robust and effective heating appliances that can be tailored to fit a variety of spaces and heating requirements.

Swedish stoves are made to retain heat longer and use less fuel than conventional stoves or fireplaces. These stoves produce a very effective combustion chamber by precisely positioning firebricks in a predetermined pattern and joining them with high-temperature mortar. As a result, there is little smoke or other emissions produced and a clean, intense burn that produces enough heat. Swedish stoves are perfect for smaller spaces, like cabins, cottages, or even tiny homes, because of their small size.

The adaptability of a Swedish stove’s construction and design is one of its main advantages. There is opportunity for creativity and customization based on personal preferences and heating needs, even though the fundamentals stay the same. You can customize the design to fit your style, whether you like a more modern appearance with a sleek outer casing or a more traditional look with exposed firebrick. Furthermore, Swedish stoves offer flexibility in installation as they can be built as standalone units or integrated into pre-existing masonry.

Though building a Swedish stove may seem like a difficult undertaking, homeowners can find success doing it themselves with the correct supplies and advice. A successful build requires careful planning, which includes knowing the fundamentals of heat transfer and combustion and choosing the right firebricks and mortar. It is possible to build a long-lasting and effective heating solution that will offer warmth and comfort for many years to come by carefully following the instructions and taking all required safety precautions.

Design and principle of operation

The iconic "Swede" is a hybrid of two heaters: a conventional kitchen slab and an enlarged "Dutch," which is essentially a straightforward channel oven. An essential feature of the building is the oven next to the fuel.

The Swedish stove’s operation:

1. The flame burning in the firebox heats the hob directly. The next oven nearby is separated by a wall of a quarter or half -brick, so it receives heat from the heat of the firebox and smoke gases.
2. The hot products of combustion washed the oven body on top and back, then under the influence of natural traction of the chimney are lowered into the lower zone, where the output channel is located.
3. Through the indicated opening, hot gases leave the hob and penetrate the heating shield consisting of 3-4 vertical channels. Moving along the chimney, combustion products heat up the brick walls, then go outside through the chimneys.
4. A drying cabinet with stoves heated from below is provided above the hob, a system of channels from behind.

Note: Although furnaces with horizontal gas sections do exist, they are not as common due to soot buildup.

The "Swede’s" combustion chamber and oven combine to form a mini-cap because the horizontal output channel is situated below. The metal walls of the oven and the cast iron plate cover are heavily heated by hot gases en route to the hole. Because of this gadget, the Swede’s effectiveness is equal to that of the Russian furnace, but it is more portable and straightforward to use.

The Swedish furnace that melts metal magically is originally intended to be installed in the wall between two heated spaces, such as a kitchen and a living room or bedroom, as the picture below illustrates. The plate and open oven in the first room provides heat, while the brick rude in the second. Certain stove models have a summer range, in which a valve closes and gases escape through a smoke turn.

The nuances of construction

Only skilled artisans, or stovers, are authorized to alter the masonry scheme because the dimensions and proportions of the Swedish cameras are meticulously checked. The following considerations should be made when erecting the furnace:

1. Massive construction – a reliable foundation that is not related to the base of the house is needed.
2. Since the spent gases move into the mines through the lower hole, the stove intensively warms the floor. To avoid useless heat consumption, heat -resistant thermal insulation is laid under the base – 3-5 layers of basalt cardboard.
3. The body of the Swedish heater experiences high temperature stresses. Therefore, the firebox from the inside is laid out with chamotis (refractory) stone, and for construction a high-quality sand-clay solution is used with the addition of a measurement.
4. It is unacceptable to embed a water heating boiler instead of an oven if such a reconstruction is not provided for by the project. Intense heat supply will significantly reduce the temperature of the gases, the thrust and efficiency of heating from rude ones will decrease. Gaskets will clog soot.
5. The “Swede” can be supplemented with a fireplace – to build it from the side of the heating shield, organizing individual chimneys. Option Second: a fireplace fireplace with its gas output is displayed into a common pipe, but is heated with a non -working stove.

A crucial aspect. Good traction is necessary for the movement of gases inside the vertical channels. The chimney head must rise to a minimum of 60 centimeters above the skate and remain out of other buildings’ wind support zones.

Instructions for work

We won’t teach you how to build a stove as part of this publication; the masonry technology is explained in the relevant instructions. Instead, we will show you how to build a fireplace that can be used to heat a home using wood. Here, we’ll provide some general guidelines for building the "Swedes" stove:

1. A bottle or reinforced concrete foundation of the structure is placed on a stable soil horizon. Remove the upper soil layer and outplay the pit of the required depth, size – 10 cm wider than the dimensions of the stove. In subsidence soils, lay a pile-screw or pile-rowing foundation.
2. A solid mixture of small sand (particles 1 … 1.5 mm) with clay of average fat content. It is better for beginners to buy a ready -made construction mixture in bags.
3. Soak the red brick for a day, and make the solution thick so that it does not spread in contact with building materials.
4. Shamotic brick is not soaked, but only rinses from dust immediately before setting in a row.
5. Fire -guided stones are placed in a shameful solution + refractory clay in a ratio of 1: 1, the optimal solution is the acquisition of a finished mixture such as “supercamine fireproof”. Ceramic masonry is not bandaged with chamotnaya, between them a lumen of 5-6 mm wide is made, laid by basalt cardboard.
6. The foundations and pipes are built on a regular cement-sand mortar, clay is not suitable.

Assemble the tools in the picture for the stove’s construction. After pouring, the concrete base needs to harden for 28 days before being covered with two layers of roofing material and basalt cardboard for waterproofing.

We’ll walk you through the steps of assembling a Swedish stove in this post so you can use it for insulation and heating in your house. The benefits of building a Swedish stove outweigh the meticulous planning and execution required. These stoves burn wood effectively, minimizing fuel consumption and producing warmth. You can build a Swedish stove with our detailed instructions, which will help you keep your house warm and energy-efficient during the winter. Our guide will assist you in designing an aesthetically pleasing and practical heating solution for your home, whether your goal is to lower your heating expenses or just to enjoy the cozy warmth of a wood stove.

We lay out the classic "Swede"

This furnace’s plan dimensions are 102 x 88.5 cm, its height is 2.03 m, and its heating power is 3.2 kW. As a result, the heating area of a summer house is up to 40 m2 and is insulated in accordance with the local climate.

Remark: Since the model being presented lacks a channel for the summer gas passage, it is more practical to use a cooking stove in the winter. The section’s heating device is depicted in the image below.

To calculate a traditional "Swede" on your own, buy the following supplies:

• Brick full -bodied ceramic standard dimensions 250 x 120 x 65 mm – 553 pcs.;
• Shamota brick Sha-8, operating temperature-up to 1300 ° C, size 230 x 114 x 65 mm-33 pcs.;
• grate 30 x 20 cm;
• oven 45 x 25 x 29 cm;
• Doors: Topic 21 x 25 cm, blew 14 x 25 cm, revision 14 x 14 cm (3 pcs.);
• hob panel 2 cast iron burners 410 x 710 mm;
• Getes: smoke 25 x 13 cm, exhaust 13 x 13 cm;
• Corner of steel equalized 45 x 45 mm total length 6.5 m;
• Strip steel with a section of 50 x 5 mm 2 m long;
• Metal sheet 2 mm thick – 1 m².

The floors are covered with a 70 x 50 cm roof steel sheet, per the fuel’s fire regulations. The list does not include the building materials for the foundation or the chimney.

When the stove "Swede" is ready, it is arranged in line with the given orderly:

1. Rows 1, 2 – continuous, on the third, the outlines of ash, secondary chamber for the oven and vertical mines are laid. We fasten 3 food doors and one blunt.
2. The fourth tier is the continuation of the masonry according to the drawing, the fifth overlaps the installed doors. We begin to form the bottom of the fuel from chamotis bricks and put the gallops, after making a recess in the stones with a grinder.
3. Row 6 – lay out the walls of the combustion chamber, mount the oven and the loading door. Between the firebox and the oven compartment, we make a partition ¼ chamotte stone thickness. The 7th horizon is built according to the scheme, on the eighth we overlap the lower gas wrap, the ninth tier covers the door of the main chamber.
4. After the tenth row, a hob and a metal corner on the front side are installed. On the 11th, the walls of the niche begin to form, horizons 12-16-continuation. Then we lay the supporting corners and brick ceiling – row No. 17. On the left we leave an exhaust opening above the niche size in half a brick.
5. On the 18th tier, we fasten the second end corner and begin to lay the wall of the drying chamber (rows 19-26). After 22 horizons, cover the stove with a sheet of 34 x 19 cm, on the 26 row we put the next corners of the ceiling, we have a metal plate in size of 905 x 800 mm on top.
6. Tiers 27-29 – continuous, leave one of the chimney opening. Rows 30–31 – we form the beginning of a pipe with an internal channel 250 x 140 mm.

Cement mortar is used for additional laying in accordance with fire safety regulations. That is, as shown in the plan, stove cutting is placed in a wooden ceiling with a thickness of one and a half bricks (38 cm) and a 130 mm declaration on the roof.

Watch the video to see the Swedish classic stove’s masonry order:

Note: The following uses of the materials were made possible by the Belarusian master Nikolai Zolotarev’s website "Heating stoves and fireplaces."

Project of a stove with a lounger and stove

An alternative to a large Russian furnace, the design in the picture requires more labor-intensive materials and skilled construction. The "Swede" has a heated area of 40–45 m² and a thermal power of 3.5 kW when equipped with a sunbed and traditional plate. The stoves measure 1910 x 765 mm, while the furnace measures 1245 x 765 mm.

The heater has a summer operation mode that involves making a straight channel to the left of the combustion chamber and closing it with a valve in the winter. Combustion products enter the sunbed through the lower horizontal canal, travel through the vertical gas tract system, and then return to the heating panel via the chimney pipe.

What kind and quantity of building supplies are required for masonry?

• Red, full -bodied brick (standard) – 870 pcs.;
• Shamot stone type Sha-8-140 pcs.;
• grates in size 415 x 240 mm;
• Cast iron hob panel 65 x 31 cm;
• Zalinka 13 x 25 cm – 2 pcs.;
• Doors: loading 21 x 25 cm, ash 14 x 25 cm, revision 7 x 13 mm (5 pcs.);
• corner No. 5 (50 x 50 x 5 mm) 1 m long;
• Steel strip with a cross section of 50 x 5 mm – 7 m;
• Metal plate 375 x 360 mm.

The typical sequence for constructing a Swedish stream is to lay the foundation, waterproof it, and then install non-combustible insulation. Proceed to the orders next:

1. We put the first and second tier, then fix 5 doors – one blunt, 4 revision. On the third, we lay the walls of the ash and horizontal channel from refractory bricks.
2. Rows 4, 5 – we continue to build walls according to drawings. On the 5th horizon, we mount the grate and cover the technological opening formed in the middle with steel stripes – it will not be used in any way. Tier No. 6 forms the vertical channels of the bed, the laying of the fuel continues.
3. On the 7th horizon, put the burning door door of the burning camera, lay out 8-10 rows according to the scheme – build the walls of the fuel and the sunbed to the end. The eleventh continuous tier is overlap the bed, after the twelfth, install the plate.
4. Row No. 13 completes the construction of the bed and begins the construction of the side walls of the hob niche. Tiers 14-18 – continuation of the masonry, at the eighteenth we put a support corner from the front side and an exhaust door. A steel strip is laid near the corner for better support for the stove facade.
5. Horizon No. 19 forms a niche overlap – first we put bricks, then cover with sheet metal, and place the stiffeners of 5 steel stripes on top. The twentieth nearby is completely covered with a niche, crashes into the channel of the summer. Tiers 21-23 are being built according to the order.
6. On the 23rd row, put 3 stripes above the left vertical shaft, with the 2nd horizon we block it. Similarly, tiers No. 25, 26, 27 form ceilings of the drying niche and stoves.
7. The last rows of the stove (28, 29) are the basis for the pipe. After 28 tiers, put a chimney, then start building a pipe.

Since the masonry text description does not fully capture the work process, we recommend watching the master’s step-by-step video instruction:

Two -story building heating oven

The project incorporates the arrangement of heating for the second floor rooms in case the channel portion of the "Swede" is elevated. The portion of the furnace that houses the oven and plate doesn’t change. The stove’s dimensions are 89 x 89 cm near the base and 89 x 38 cm for the heating shield on the second floor.

The furnace transfers about 4 kW of heat in total. The distribution of heat across the floors is as follows: at the top, 15 m², and below, up to 25 squares. There isn’t a summer regime, but there is a chance that there will be heating phases because the channels in the upper and lower sections have valve overlap.

Construction supplies:

• Brick clay red (full -bodied) – 950 pcs.;
• Brick Shamotnaya Sha-8-18 pcs.;
• grates 200 x 300 mm;
• Plate for 2 burners 71 x 41 cm;
• Plant 130 x 130 mm – 3 pcs.;
• Doors: Topic – 21 x 25 cm, the rest – 14 x 14 cm (7 pcs.);
• Equal corner 40 x 5 mm – 2 m;
• strip 50 x 5 mm – 5 m;
• metal sheet 50 x 80 cm.

It is advised to pay close attention to the strength of the foundation and the alignment of each row during the masonry process because of the structure’s decent weight and height, in order to prevent any damage to the Pisan tower. Just be mindful of construction technology and handle work with care.

Starting on the first floor, the "Swede" is built with an emphasis on the furnace’s plans and drawings in relation to:

1. We lay out a continuous zero tier, on the first we begin to build a ash compartment of the stove. On the second horizon, put the camera door, we build the third according to the scheme, after the fourth we fasten 2 revision doors.
2. Row No. 5 – lay the bottom of the fuel from the fireupo, mount grates. On the 6th tier, we install the furnace door, form the walls of the wood chamber and chimneys. The seventh and eighth horizons – the continuation of the masonry according to the orderly, the ninth and tenth rows cover the boot opening. On the 10th row we make an opening connecting the firebox to the left channel.
3. After the construction of 11 tiers, we put the plate and the front end corner. Horizons 12-17 form a niche for cooking. The ventilation door is mounted on the 16th row, the seventeenth is overlapped with a metal plate and stripes. Next, we lay out two tiers of ceilings – No. 18, 19.
4. Horizon No. 20 begins to form a drying niche, a treatment door is placed on the side. We make ranks 21-24 according to the schemes, then we lay the overlapping strips of the upper chamber. Tier number 25, cover the dryer, on the right we fasten the door – revision.
5. In rows 26-30 we continue the masonry, install 2 smoke shutters. 27th horizon reduces the size of the stove, forming a ledge. The second “step” appears on 31 tiers, then we drive two chimney -turning up to 35 rows inclusive. Horizons 36–38 again expand the furnace, firewood is formed (passing through the ceiling 1 floor).

Remark: The stove’s main section is 2.6 meters high. Add the necessary number of brick rows between tiers 32–35 if the room’s ceiling is higher.

We begin building the upper channel section of the two-story "Swede" after laying the lower portion of the structure:

1. The first tier narrows the furnace after cutting, on the second we fix the next audit door.
2. Then we continue to drive 3 channels in height according to the same type of schemes. Having reached the 27th horizon, we built the main valve.
3. Row No. 28 blocks 2 vertical mines, the remaining tiers 29–32 form the transition to the chimney.

To put it more simply, the video illustrates how to erect the stove as follows:

The Swedish stove is a good option if you’re searching for an economical and effective way to heat your house. It provides an affordable, long-term heating solution due to its straightforward design and dependence on natural materials like wood.

Although building a Swedish stove may seem difficult at first, DIY enthusiasts with moderate skill levels can complete the project with the correct materials and guidance. You can build a heating system that adds a rustic charm while simultaneously providing warmth for your home by following the instructions provided in this guide.

The capacity of a Swedish stove to hold heat long after the fire has gone out is one of its main advantages. This implies that you won’t need to continuously tend to the fire in order to enjoy a comfortable ambiance day and night. Additionally, the radiant heat the stove produces can help you use less energy overall, which will further cut your heating costs.

A Swedish stove can be used for purposes other than just providing heat. Its level surface makes it an easy-to-use platform for boiling or warming water, which makes it a flexible addition to any house. The heat output of the stove can be readily changed to meet your needs, whether you’re boiling water for tea or simmering a stew.

To sum up, the Swedish stove provides your home with an affordable, efficient, and adaptable heating option. You can enhance your living area with a hint of rustic charm and reap the advantages of this age-old heating technique by following the instructions provided in this guide. Why not give it a shot and discover for yourself the coziness and warmth of a Swedish stove?

Video on the topic

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