How to fold a Russian stove with a lounger

On a bitterly cold winter’s day, picture yourself arriving home to a warm and inviting home—the kind of warmth that seeps into your bones and calms your spirit. Traditionally, a Russian stove with an integrated lounger is used to achieve this degree of comfort. The Russian stove, which dates back centuries, is a work of engineering and artistry that can be used for cooking and even sleeping in addition to providing heat for the home. This article will discuss the classic method of constructing a Russian stove with a lounger, which blends history and functionality.

Constructing a Russian stove with a lounger is a cultural custom that has its roots in Russian history and goes beyond simply building a heating device. These stoves, which functioned as the center of the home, were historically essential to Russian families’ everyday lives. Building one was frequently a community effort, involving friends and family pitching in to offer advice and encouragement. The allure of the Russian stove, with its nostalgic charm and unmatched warmth, continues to captivate homeowners seeking a connection to the past, even though modern heating methods have become widespread.

The versatility of a Russian stove with a lounger is one of its distinguishing qualities. It acts as a cooking surface and, in certain situations, a temporary bed in addition to emitting radiant heat to warm the surrounding area. Its adaptability makes it a priceless asset, especially in areas where severe winters are a regular occurrence. Envision cooking filling meals, making bread, and then unwinding in your cozy home on the warm lounger.

To the uninitiated, the idea of building a Russian stove with a lounger may seem intimidating, but with the correct assistance and planning, it is a doable project. Every stage of the process, from deciding on the best spot for your project inside your house to assembling the required supplies and comprehending the complexities of stove building, is vital to its success. Through the application of established methods and the knowledge of seasoned constructors, you can take this adventure with excitement and confidence.

The device of a traditional furnace

We won’t go into detail about the Russian stove’s history or its function in a village home because this information is abundantly available in technical and artistic publications. We’ll get right to the point and quickly examine the conventional design depicted in the figure below:

1. The lower part of the structure – Opera – was built of stone or wood – cedar, larch. The walls of the base form a niche – signs where firewood was dried and house utensils were stored.
2. The first arched vault and a large stove fuel was built on top of the Opera – the crucible. Under and the second arched vault was made with a bias towards the person – the front part of the structure.
3. A blossom was arranged above the crucible, where the bed was located. The cavity between the second vault of the fuel and the overlap was covered with sand to increase heat capacity.
4. Before the mouth of the crucible, a special niche was provided – a bent that ends with Hale (smokers) on top and a chimney itself. The horizontal shelf at the bottom of the opening – six – has a semicircular window that goes outside.
5. In the side walls of the brick heater, stoves were arranged – small niches for drying clothes and other things. The chimney was equipped with a valve and a bit located above Hale.

Citation. A well-known book bearing the same name, written in 2003 by Gennady Fedotov, provides a detailed account of the development of the Russian classic stove.

The following indications show how the authentic Russian furnace differs from other brick heating structures:

• deep vaulted fuel, made with a slope forward;
• The chimney is located in front – in the center or in the corner of the structure;
• An indispensable attribute – a couch arranged over the fuel chamber.

Now consider the stove’s operating principle as depicted in the diagram:

1. Firewoods are laid closer to the back of the crucible and are kindled. The air for burning flows through the outer window of the six and the mouth of the fuel, and moves above the charm.
2. The heat generated during burning heats the body of the furnace – the side walls, sandy filling and bed.
3. Light combustion products rise to the furnace set. The slope does not allow the gases to immediately leave the camera – at first they give heat to the overlap, then they become heavier and are replaced by a new hot stream.
4. Having passed under the arch of the crucible, combustion products go through the upper zone of the mouth, rise into the smokers and leave the stove through the chimney.

Note: Baking bread and cooking do not occur during the combustion process. After the stove is fully heated, the food is placed in a cast iron metal dish after the coals have been removed from the furnace. A damper closes the output.

A Russian stove with a lounger is rarely constructed in traditional performance, despite its many benefits. While the traditional heater takes up a lot of room and only slightly warms the lower zone of the room, the modern interior is worth its weight in gold. When building, it is preferable to take into account modernized structure projects where the given issue is resolved.

Improved options for the heater

The modernization of the traditional furnace was the work of numerous Russian masters, including Kuznetsov, Podgorodnikov, Emshanov, and Batsulin. The main changes are as follows: the old structure’s details, such as the vaulted crucible and the bent and haillo above the mouth, were used as the foundation. To them, new functional components were added:

1. Instead of a six, a hob is placed, a small shade is arranged from below. The parallel mine of the summer passes is laid out, united with the main smokebreaker at the top.
2. Solcted gases from an additional fuel are directed along the chimneys made in the lower part – Opechee. Then burning products are thrown into a common pipe.
3. At the end or on the sides of the crucible, vertical channels are arranged, again leading to the lower zone under the fuel, then to the chimney.
4. Channels from the fuel go to the attached heating shield and out of the combined pipe.
5. The shade is made from the bottom of the crucible and communicates with it through the grate, installed in the low (bottom) of the main firebox. Gas drives from the crucible penetrate the opera, converge into a vertical mine that goes into the chimney.

Note: The modifications enable you to heat the oven in two modes: heating-welding mode (gases move around the channels) and Russian (smoke comes out through the mouth and hailo).

While there are many more options available, we only attempted to describe the common concepts. The modifications are meant to enhance the fundamental structure’s functionality and heat transfer. The gas traders can be equipped with an oven register or water circuit, if preferred (the cabinet is placed next to the subcankment).

We will now examine the revised options in-depth using real-world examples, including drawings and visitors.

Project mini-stoves with stove

With an additional combustion chamber, the Russian heating-welding stove "Heat" has a 3.5 kW power output. The building is intended to be used for cooking during the summer and for heating a small house or cottage that is between thirty and forty square meters. The drawing depicts the small heater’s device.

A mini-pove operates in three ways:

1. Summer move. Open the valves 1, 2 and 3 (look in the picture), charge for the firewood firewood. Gases immediately go through the main channel into the pipe, the plate is heated. Damper No. 3 plays the role of hood.
2. The firebox is in winter. We use the lower camera again, close the valve No. 1. Then the combustion products move through the crucibles and gas trades in the back of the cod, go along the canal on the front side and then to the main chimney. Heated the entire body of the furnace, from top to bottom.
3. Topka in Russian. We kindle firewood in the crucible, open the hermetic door of the mouth and damper No. 3, valves 1 and 2 are closed. Smoke goes into Heilo and the main pipe, only a lying. For full heating, close the door, open the damper No. 2 – the gases will go through the lower stove channels.

Note: The figure depicts the gas movement scheme for the different operating modes.

It is safe to refer to a mini-tank as a housekeeper because of its effectiveness and comparatively cheap material costs. The bed’s tiny size is a drawback. Maximum building height: 2.1 m; maximum blossom area: 147 cm.

Building materials and furnace fittings

In order to create a handmade Russian mini-patch, you will need to purchase the following supplies and parts:

• Full ceramic brick – 670 pieces (chimney is considered separately);
• Shamot brick for the firebox – 25 pcs. (brand Sha-8);
• Block of the Shamot brand SHB-94 or similar in size-1 pcs.;
• door of the mouth of the main chamber 25 x 28 cm, it is possible with refractory glass;
• loading door 21 x 25 cm;
• Zolnik door 14 x 25 cm;
• two grates in sizes of 300 x 250 and 220 x 325 mm;
• wooden template – circled – with a radius of 460 mm, length – 65 cm;
• hob from cast iron for 2 burners 71 x 41 cm;
• 3 valves: 13 x 25 cm – 2 pcs., 260 x 240 x 455 mm – 1 pc. (brand ZV-5);
• Equal corner 40 x 4 mm – 3 meters;
• a sheet of steel thickness 1 mm for a shelf in the stove;
• galvanized mesh for reinforcement, cell 3 x 3 cm – 2.1m. P.;
• Caoline cotton wool, corrugated cardboard.

Red brick is laid over a solution of sand and cement. Cement M400 may be added while building the chimney. On top of another solution, such as mercuric, chamotis clay, or the like, are fire-guidly stones.

Suggestions. For novices, we advise using store-bought, pre-made building mixtures to create solutions.

Masonry move – step -by -step instruction

Beneath the furnace, which has dimensions 10 cm larger than the structure itself, is a button foundation or reinforced concrete structure. Commence construction after the concrete has reached 75% of its strength; under typical circumstances, the solidification process will take two weeks. A daily average air temperature of +20 °C and appropriate monolithic maintenance are assumed.

After installing two layers of waterproof roofing material, construct the first row continuously using 40 bricks. We continued reading to find out how the orderly folded the stove:

1. On 2-3 tiers, a ash chamber is formed, a cleaning door is mounted and columns are built that support the bottom of the maiden. The 4th row continues the main walls of the stove, the ash chamber is overlapped with cut stones.
2. Rows 5-6 form the main smoke canal and the bottom of the flood of fire from fire bricks. The grate is placed without a solution, a series of chamotis stones placed on the rib is laid on top.
3. On the 7th tier, a loading door and a vertical valve of a summer move are installed. 7–9 rows are laid according to the scheme, at the end, the ball brick is covered with kaolin cotton wool (marked with green). Please note: on the seventh tier there is a reinforcement of the walls with a steel grid.
4. 10 and 11 rows partially overlap gas and the lower heating chamber, a gallop for the crucible and a hob is placed. The 12th tier begins to form the main fuel, on the 13th the door is attached to the mouth of the crucible.
5. 14-17 rows are placed according to the scheme, the corners are mounted for overlapping the hob. On the 18th tier, steel profiles are covered, an arched vault is built with a radius of 46 cm from wedge-shaped stones.
6. Tiers 19, 20 are made according to the scheme, the cavity between the arch and the walls is filled with sand or filled with a dense pantry solution. When the filler dries, the 21 row is placed -.
7. From 22 to 32 tiers, the front of the heater is built. On the 24th row, both chimneys are placed, on the 25th-an iron shelf size of 42 x 32 cm. Having laid the 29th tier, block the stove with the same sheet.

Suggestion made. Create a space with regular cardboard packaging between the ceramic and refractory masonry. The paper will eventually burn out, leaving the gap unfilled. The only material used to fill the horizontal seams between the red and chamotis bricks is kaolin wool.

We recommend watching the following video to understand the construction down to the last detail: it includes a master’s explanation and a detailed demonstration of the masonry in each row.

Few things in the world of home insulation and heating quite evoke the warmth and tradition of a Russian stove with an integrated lounger. This article examines the skillful construction of this classic piece of heating furniture, which combines functionality and fine craftsmanship. We explore the processes required to create a cozy and welcoming focal point for any home, from choosing the appropriate materials to perfecting the complex assembly process. This guide offers simple and understandable instructions to add the charm of a Russian stove with a lounger to your living area, regardless of your level of experience doing do-it-yourself projects. 1/ 2

Russian "heat" with a stove 127 x 166 cm

This stove’s mechanism and working principle are comparable to those of the earlier heat source. Size, power, and a few design elements are the differences. There are three more modes available here: firebox in Russian, summer, and winter. The heated area is 45–50 m², and the heat transfer is 4.5 kW.

The furnace’s dimensions in the plan are 1270 x 1660 mm plus an additional 10 cm for the foundation. When lying down, the front portion measures 147 cm in height. A group of building supplies:

• Fire-guidly bricks Sha-8-26 pcs.;
• Red, full -bodied brick – 995 pcs. (chimney into the indicated amount is not included);
• Shamot Block type SB-94-1 pc.;
• The main door installed at the mouth is 41 x 25 cm;
• The ash of ash 14 x 25 cm, furnace – 21 x 25 cm;
• 2 grates of golst sizes 240 x 415 and 220 x 325 mm;
• plate 71 x 41 cm (2 burners);
• chimney flap type ZV-5, size 260 x 240 x 455 mm;
• 2 valves 130 x 250 mm;
• steel sheet 2 mm thick;
• Galing reinforcing grid – 1.5 m. P. (cell 30 x 30, wire with a diameter of 1 mm);
• Template for the formation of an arch, radius – 322.5, length – 645 mm;
• circled under the set of the main furnace with a radius of 60, 77 cm long;
• Cardboard packaging corrugated, kaolin.

Work in preparation is a dependable foundational tool. Remember that the formwork can be removed 3–4 days after the foundation is poured (during the warm period), and the stove can only be built after 2 weeks. Half of the roofing material is waterproofed over the foundation site.

The proper layout of the full-size "warmth" is as follows:

1. Row No. 1 – continuous, consists of 65 ceramic bricks. On the second tier, we begin to form the walls of the furnace and support columns, put the ash chamber door. We install 8 stones on a poke without solution and cut down the height of the 3rd row. We do not associate the rest of the masonry – these will be food hatches.
2. We put the third tier according to the scheme, on the 4th we block the ash. On the 5th row, we begin to build the walls of the fuel from the fireupo, insert a grate of 415 x 240 mm.
3. We continue to put the ranks 6 and 7 according to the scheme, chamotis stones are placed on the rib. After the formation of the 7th tier, we mount the furnace door and a summer valve installed vertically. 8-9 rows are built according to the order.
4. On the 10th tier, we block the floods, the upper ends of the refractory bricks are covered with kaolin wool. The front of the chamber must be blocked by the shamot block SB-94 or similar. We begin to reinforce the walls of the furnace with a galvanized wire mesh, then arrange a second overlap from red bricks (row 11).
5. On the finished 11th tier, we insert the plate and grates of the main camera-the crucibles. We do level No. 12 according to the order and mount a large door. Then we lay out the 13th tier and the arch, using the circle.
6. Rights 14-17 are built according to the drawings, lifting the outer walls of the furnace, the smoke canal and the facial partition of the crucible. Next, put the arched vault r = 60 cm from wedge bricks. Tiers 18, 19 we continue to build according to the schemes.
7. The twentieth row overlap the front arch and raise the outer walls above. Fill the void above the arch solution of clay and sand. After drying, we build a tier 21 – the plane of the bed.
8. Tails 22-32 make up the front section of the stove, where Heilo unites with the side gas. We build the rows according to the schemes, at the 24th level we put 2 valves, on the 29th sheet of metal that overlaps the stove.

An expert in his video will provide step-by-step instructions for building a Russian multifunctional stove.

Construction technology tips

A major problem is the construction of a Russian heating stove. It will be very challenging for the homeowner without furnace experience, so we advise him to be patient and to stock up ahead of time. In an article about building a fireplace, we provided comprehensive instructions for the masonry and solution preparation; we encourage you to become acquainted with the required materials.

Here are our general suggestions for the Russian domestic stove:

1. Even a mini-version of the heater weighs over 2 tons. The foundation plate must be covered on a stable horizon of soil, the depth can be determined by the occurrence of the existing base of the dwelling.
2. In the finished building, the sole must be arranged separately from the foundation of the house, retreating at least 10 cm. At the stage of building a cottage, the foundations, on the contrary, are united – a common formwork is set and concrete is filled.
3. You need high -quality brick and solution, and not a mixture of ravine clay. The correct geometry of stones will greatly facilitate your work – uneven bricks will have to be filled out.
4. Soak red brick in a bucket for 2-3 minutes, as shown in the photo. Do not immerse a refractory of fire, only rinse from dust.
5. The masonry of the crucible and the fuel of the ceramic brick is allowed, as our ancestors did. But remember: such cameras are afraid of a random re -tape, the material begins to crumble and crumble.
6. The heaps of temperature are also afraid of the lynchist, arranged on a bulk base. That is why it is recommended to fill the void above the arch with clay solution. If you fill the cavity with sand, small cracks may appear on the blotter. Did not have time to build a stove, how to do repairs.
7. Fire -controlled masonry is not bandaged with ceramic, cardboard is inserted to ensure the gap between the two walls. Horizontal seams are laid with kaolin non -combustible cotton.
8. It is not necessary to drive the pipe to the top of the brick. Facilitate the structure – after cutting, install a sandwich – a chimney that goes to the roof, as shown in the photo.

Citation. Stokers frequently use an iron frame that is welded from the corners to reinforce the walls and arch.

Lastly, a few tips on properly drowning a new stove. First, dilute a small bonfire on the upper damper after the stove has dried for two to three days (in the summer). Start freezing the crucible once the pipe warms up, and then move on to the lower camera. Take your time; the firewood is coming in slowly. The objective is to heat the furnace’s body uniformly in preparation for final drying.

Constructing a Russian stove with a lounger is about efficiency and practicality, not just setting a warm and inviting scene. This age-old technique of insulation and heating has been shown to be successful in keeping homes warm in cold climates throughout history. You can lessen your energy costs and environmental effect in addition to enjoying the comforts of a warm home by following the instructions provided in this article.

The long-term heat retention of a Russian stove with a lounger is one of its main benefits. The massive masonry construction of a Russian stove absorbs and stores heat, radiating it slowly and evenly throughout the room, in contrast to modern heating systems that quickly lose warmth once turned off. This implies that you can maintain a comfortable temperature without having to burn fuel continuously, which will ultimately save you money and lessen your carbon footprint.

Furthermore, a Russian stove’s lounger-equipped design permits multipurpose use. The raised platform, also known as the "lounger," not only provides warmth but also functions as a sleeping area or a place to sit and unwind. Because of its adaptability, it is a great addition to any house, but smaller ones where making the most of available space is crucial.

Building a Russian stove with a lounger involves meticulous planning and attention to detail in its construction. Everything from choosing the right materials to becoming skilled in masonry is important to guaranteeing the longevity and efficiency of the stove. However, even inexperienced builders can complete this project successfully and enjoy the benefits of a warm and comfortable home with the right guidance and patience.

To sum up, a Russian stove with a lounger represents a timeless tradition of practicality and craftsmanship, offering more than just heat. Accepting this traditional approach to insulation and heating will allow you to enhance your living area with a dash of rustic charm while reaping the benefits of efficiency, warmth, and comfort. So why not set out on this adventure and discover for yourself the warm, inviting charm of a Russian stove?

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