How to drown the stove with wood: the basic rules for laying, kindling and ignition, adjustment of the combustion mode

There aren’t many more comfortable or traditional ways to heat your house than with a wood-burning stove. In addition to offering coziness and warmth, it can also be an affordable and environmentally friendly choice. But there are some tricks to making the most of your wood stove. There are crucial guidelines to adhere to, such as correctly laying and kindling the fire and modifying the combustion mode for maximum efficiency. This post will teach you the fundamentals of using a wood stove efficiently so that you can stay toasty and cozy during the winter.

First things first: a successful burn depends on properly starting the fire in your wood stove. It takes more than just tossing in some logs and striking a match. The effectiveness and longevity of your fire can be significantly impacted by the way you arrange the wood. More even burning and improved airflow are made possible by stacking the wood properly. We’ll go into the best methods for setting up your wood so that it burns steadily and effectively.

After stacking your firewood neatly, it’s time to kindle and light your fire. This is where a lot of people get stuck, particularly those who have never used a wood stove before. Selecting the appropriate kindling and becoming an expert at starting a fire can have a profound impact. We’ll go over a variety of fire starting techniques, from the old-fashioned newspaper and kindling to the more cutting-edge fire starter sticks and environmentally friendly firelighters. You’ll discover how to start a fire safely and swiftly without squandering important time or resources.

It’s crucial to modify the combustion mode once your fire is started in order to get the right amount of efficiency and heat output. You can regulate the airflow and combustion rate of many wood stoves by using the adjustable air vents or dampers that come with the appliance. By knowing how to operate these controls properly, you can reduce fuel consumption and increase heat output. We’ll go over the significance of appropriate combustion as well as how to modify the airflow to keep a clean, effective burn.

These fundamental guidelines will help you maintain a warm and comfortable home without going over budget when it comes to laying, kindling, and modifying the combustion mode of your wood stove. Knowing these basics will help you make the most of your wood stove this winter, whether you’re an experienced user or a newbie to the world of wood heating.

Laying Place small pieces of wood on the bottom layer, followed by larger pieces stacked in a crisscross pattern.
Kindling Use newspaper or small dry twigs to ignite the fire, ensuring good airflow.
Ignition Light the kindling from the top, allowing the fire to spread downwards.
Adjustment of the combustion mode Control the airflow by adjusting the damper or vents to regulate the intensity of the fire.

What happens in the furnace during the furnace?

Whatever the kind of solid fuel, the following procedures always take place in the KP:

  • pyrolysis (thermal) decomposition into ash and pyrolysis gases;
  • primary and secondary oxidation of pyrolysis gases;
  • loss and drying of condensate;
  • the formation of soot;
  • heating the body of the furnace;
  • Temperature expansion of bricks and masonry.

The main parameters of firewood

It is essential to take into account them in order to comprehend how firewood impacts the CP. The primary variables that are

The breed is the most crucial factor since it controls the chemical makeup and firewood’s capacity to withstand high temperatures. Lignin and cellulose are the two main polymer substances that make up wood; the exact composition and physical characteristics of these substances vary depending on the breed.

Coniferous rocks, for instance, have a higher variety of resins, which makes the condensate that is produced when they burn in the furnace more chemically aggressive.

In addition, the breed and the volume of wood in a given log determine the density. Firewood from oak trees burns more efficiently than firewood from poplar trees because the higher this parameter is.

Humidity is the second crucial factor that determines the amount of water in wood, which implies:

  • how much energy will be spent on its evaporation;
  • how much condensate is formed during the heating of the CP;
  • at what speed does the soot grow on the chimney channels.

The size of the firewood is the third crucial factor; larger pieces burn hotter but release less thermal energy over time.

Thicker logs work better in some furnaces, while smaller logs work better in others. It all comes down to how the furnace chamber and smoke channels are set up and how the KP absorbs heat from the movement of smoke gases.

Optimum fuel chamber of a wood stove

The following are the prerequisites for such a fuel chamber:

  1. Sufficient volume – tightly stacked or set vertically on the firewood (depending on the stove configuration) should occupy approximately half the volume, this will provide relatively good mixing of pyrolysis gases and air.
  2. The minimum width (optimal – one brick, that is, 25–26 cm), during the burning of firewood, the walls will be hot and will maintain the temperature in the zone of active pyrolysis, and also absorb more thermal energy.
  3. The comfort of loading firewood – a furnace chamber must have such sizes and shape so that you can freely put firewood there, because the denser you fold the logs, the hotter the fire. This is especially important if one laying of firewood was not enough and you decide to throw a pair of logs – an uncomfortable design of the fuel chamber will force you to keep its door open for a long time, which leads to cooling the walls of the chimney and the loss of the heat of the heat.

The characteristics of the wood and the furnace’s operating mode determine the answer to the question, "What is the temperature in the furnace?" Strong air supply can cause the flame temperature to reach 1200 degrees, which is too high for a CP without a connected fuel chamber. This can also result in excessive firewood consumption and other issues.

Because of this, a temperature between 800 and 1000 degrees is thought to be ideal; this can be attained by limiting air supply and traction. Simultaneously, the brick furnace fire lasts for an average of 1.5 hours (1.5–2 hours for a connected fuel chamber, 1 hour for no lining).

Brick stove firebox rules with wood

Using wood for Topka KP, or any other solid fuel, involves a variety of tasks, such as furnace maintenance, thrust inspections, log placement, and combustion mode adjustments. Nevertheless, firewood differs greatly from other forms of solid fuel in that it must be thoroughly prepared before use.

When and how to harvest raw materials?

Because illegal wood cutting carries severe penalties under Russian law, gathering firewood requires coordination with the local government or forestry department.

For this kind of workpiece, the best months are early November through mid-February, when the trees’ sap flow has stopped entirely and their humidity is at its lowest (40–60%). Since 20% humidity is ideal, chop down the trees as soon as possible and saw on the blocks whose length matches the top-end chamber of your KP.

The churbaki colitis is then on the logs, and since the wood becomes less viscous in the cold, it is easier to treat in the winter. Completed logs should be folded in an embankment beneath a canopy and left there until the middle or end of summer, at which point they should be moved to the barn or placed inside a log that is likewise covered by a canopy.

With this kind of workpiece and preparation, the logs’ moisture content approaches 20% by the start of October. It is best to wait until the next heating season to dry firewood that was prepared during a warm winter or at a different time of year, as it won’t dry by fall.

Chops up to ten centimeters in diameter cannot be splitting or pricking only in half because 8 to 10 centimeters is the ideal width and thickness for logs.

Churks measuring 20 cm in diameter can be cut into four to six pieces. Each piece of wood should then be cut again, this time separating the wide from the narrow parts. The wide part will provide the necessary heat, while the narrow part will be used for kindling.

Use an electric or hydraulic shoal car if you find it difficult to chop firewood by hand. If they are not available, you can hire someone to do the work for you, but the cost of crossing the firewood car will be several thousand rubles.

Fuel chamber cleaning

Take out what’s left of the old firebox from the camera before laying a fresh supply of firewood. Use a poker to make the ash in the gallop furnaces wake up through the grate holes and enter the ash chamber.

Remember that some of the leftover coal from firewood can occasionally smolder into the next firebox, so you should determine whether or not to remove the ash that has accumulated from the ash. If the ash chamber’s dimensions permit, clean it once every two to three days, gathering roughly a bucket’s worth of ash right away. If any coal is still smoldering, place the gathered material in a metal bucket and transport it to the street right away to eliminate the smoke odor in the room.

Booking firewood in the furnace

The best method for laying firewood that has been properly dried out is as follows:

  • Fold the lower row of the thickest logs;
  • In the next rows, gradually reduce the size of the logs;
  • Put the kindling and beams with a thickness of 5–20 mm on top.

By ensuring the maximum density of firewood, you can ensure that it burns longer than if it were piled in a heap. This allows you to slightly reduce the speed at which the chimney moves through the KP channels, resulting in more efficient heat selection.

There is an additional laying order if you own a Russian stove; we covered this in the related article.

Choosing and making kindling

The wood bark, old newspapers, and the broken logs into tiny pieces (beams) make the best tuning materials. Since it is challenging to light the thick bark of old trees with paper shreds, cut the bark into strips that range in thickness from one millimeter to one centimeter using your hands or a knife.

Place the torn paper first, followed by the thinnest bark pieces to resemble a hut, and then progressively add more fuel material to the stack of logs. Finally, arrange the bens using the same principle—thin first, thick afterwards.

Checking traction

This task can be carried out both prior to and following the installation of firewood. Light a match, close the fuel chamber door, and bring it to the open ash door (Puncher) to check the traction. The match’s fire will be drawn into the ash if the craving is strong enough.

Bring the match to the firebox’s open door since there are no ash furnaces in the solid furnaces. Make sure the chimney’s overlapping valves are open when the flame does not veer. If this still does not help, open the treatment door closest to the smoke pipe and as high as you can, then insert the burning newspaper into it.

In order to generate traction, you must warm the air inside the chimney. You cannot drown a kP, so if such a manipulation was ineffective, there must be a problem with the stove or chimney.

Rod and adjustment of combustion mode

If the kindling and firewood are properly arranged, all you need to do is light a match on the paper; fire will spread to the logs first, followed by the roller.

There are videos of stoves being ignited with gas burners that can be found online; this simply suggests that the people who filmed the video are inexperienced with heating stoves.

Shut the furnace chamber door after the kindle is covered in flames. There’s a low growl coming from this chamber, which is the main indication that everything is working as it should. Covering the blower door is necessary because the fire will spread to the firewood in approximately five to ten minutes, depending on a number of factors.

Do the following if you are unsure of how to tell when such a time has arrived:

  • Complete the blower door completely;
  • Open the door of the furnace;
  • See how the fire spread;
  • If the upper row of firewood is already burning, close the furnace door and open the ash -free door by about 1 cm;
  • If the fire has not yet covered the upper row of firewood, then close the furnace and completely open the ash.

Cover the valve and wait five to ten minutes after covering the ashin. Use experimentation to pinpoint its precise location, paying particular attention to the furnace’s lack of hum and the room’s smoke-free atmosphere.

When to close the stove?

Since the majority of KP are highly sensitive to excessive air flow, the door may not close promptly, and the valve may shorten the amount of time the stove actively heats the house by 10% to 40%. Although Colling stoves are much less prone to this, even they have doors that don’t close on time and a valve that shortens the amount of time that heats up by 3–10%.

To figure out when the oven needs to be closed, Periodically examine a blower door. Actively burning coal residue from the logs will cause a red or yellow light to emerge behind it somewhere near the furnace’s center. Shut the door and valve when the light starts to fade.

Since the process of releasing pyrolysis gases and their oxidation continues even after the furnace chamber is closed, closing the valve will leave a 5 mm slot.

To accept hot pyrolysis gases and their oxidation products, drill three to five holes measuring 10 mm in diameter or one hole measuring 20 mm. If you don’t want to fiddle with this, just remove the clip from the clip.

We go over the essentials of using a wood stove efficiently in our guide to heating and insulating your house. We explore the fundamental guidelines for starting, maintaining, and igniting a fire as well as modifying the combustion mode for best results. We offer helpful advice to ensure effective heating while reducing the impact on the environment, from efficiently arranging the wood to safely lighting it. This article offers simple guidance to help you get the most out of your wood-burning stove while maintaining a warm and comfortable home, regardless of experience level.

The effect of firewood on the furnace temperature

Any breed of wood will have a heating capacity of 4.2–4.3 kW/h for one kilogram of moisture-content (15–20%), and conifers are even more efficient than deciduous.

The same amount of firewood from different breeds will, however, produce different amounts of heat during combustion because a kilogram of wood from different species does not have the same volume.

Consequently, the densest wood yields the best firewood, which is:

  • acacia;
  • oak;
  • grab;
  • elm;
  • beech;
  • maple;
  • larch.

Is it possible to heat the stove with wood of the following breeds and what are the best?

In this section, we will address the most frequently asked questions regarding wood species that we received from brick warm-intensive stove owners and answered online. Specifically, we will address whether it is possible to fill the stove to the brim with firewood from maple, aspen, alder, cherry, poplar, and other conifers, as well as the benefits and drawbacks of using them in furnaces.

Consequently, in addition to providing information regarding each breed’s suitability for burning in a wood furnace, we will also provide a few succinct suggestions for extending and making the best use of the KP resource.

We gathered all of the data shown in the table:

Breed Suitability Influence on the stove How to reduce a negative impact
Pine Average Strong soot formation, firewood quickly burn out Increase air supply, more often clean the channels
Poplar Low It is difficult to warm up the KP Use only if there are no other firewood
Spruce Average Strong soot formation, firewood quickly burn out Increase air supply, more often clean the channels
Willow Low It is difficult to warm up the KP Use only if there are no other firewood
Aspen Average He does not secrete a lot of heat, quickly burn out, but burns soot in the channels Carefully monitor the thrust and supply of air in order to eliminate the fire of soot in the channels
Larch High Strong soot formation Increase air supply, more often clean the channels
Linden Low It is difficult to light firewood and it is difficult to warm up the KP Use only if there are no other firewood
Rowan Average He burns quickly Use only if there are no other firewood
Any coniferous Average Strong soot formation, firewood quickly burn out Increase air supply, more often clean the channels
Maple High Give strong heat, quickly warm up the stove Carefully monitor the thrust and supply of air in order to eliminate the fire of soot in the channels and overheating of the KP
Cheremukha Low Quickly burns out, although it gives a strong heat Use only if there are no other firewood
Alder Average Gives weak heat, but the formation of soot is minimal Regulate air supply and traction

We have an article on additional materials you can use to drown an oven besides firewood on our website; you might find it interesting to read it.

Useful videos about the furnace furnace with wood

We would like to draw your attention to the following video, which demonstrates how to melt the stove when using wooden fuel and how to properly drown the stove with wood if the house has stove heating:

You will also learn why using pine wood to heat the stove is not only impractical but also undesirable in the following video:

Whether you have a Russian stove or a Swede, find out which breed of tree produces the most "hot" firewood for the furnace:

There’s more to maintaining effective and efficient heating in your home than just stoking the stove. It necessitates an understanding of the fundamentals of kindling, laying, and controlling combustion. You can maximize the efficiency of your wood stove and reduce its impact on the environment and fuel consumption by adhering to a few basic rules.

First and foremost, choosing the right wood is essential. Choose hardwoods that have been well-seasoned, such as oak, maple, or cherry, as they burn hotter and cleaner than softwoods. Burning green or damp wood can cause excessive smoke and creosote buildup, which can cause chimney fires and reduce efficiency. Avoid doing this.

Make sure there is enough airflow by building a sturdy base of kindling and small wood fragments when starting the fire. Larger pieces of wood should be layered on top gradually, alternating in directions to allow for even combustion and airflow. Refrain from packing the stove too full as this may impede airflow and result in ineffective burning.

Proper kindling of the fire is necessary for a clean and rapid ignition. At the fire’s base, place newspaper or fire starters; make sure they are dry and free of moisture. To create a strong flame that will more successfully ignite the larger pieces of wood, light the kindling from several points.

It’s crucial to modify the combustion mode once the fire is burning steadily in order to maintain the ideal temperature and effectiveness. To get a clean, hot burn, keep an eye on your stove’s airflow controls and make any necessary adjustments. A properly adjusted stove will maximize heat production and produce the least amount of smoke and ash.

Keep in mind to use the appropriate safety measures when using your wood stove. To avoid buildup and potential hazards, install and maintain carbon monoxide and smoke detectors in your home. You should also have your chimney inspected and cleaned on a regular basis. Your home can remain warm and comfortable throughout the heating season while leaving the least amount of environmental impact possible if you adhere to these simple guidelines for laying, kindling, and controlling the combustion process.

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Michael Kuznetsov

I love to create beauty and comfort with my own hands. In my articles I share tips on warming the house and repairing with my own hands.

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