How to disassemble the bimetallic heating radiator

It may be time to disassemble your bimetallic heating radiator and have a closer look if you’ve ever experienced a cold snap and found it’s not working as it should. Anyone can learn how to disassemble a radiator with the correct tools and a little perseverance; this process isn’t limited to those with mechanical aptitudes. By doing this, you can make sure it’s operating efficiently by giving it a thorough checkup or clear out any internal blockages.

It is essential to comprehend the characteristics that set bimetallic radiators apart before beginning the disassembly. Because they are made of two metals (usually steel and aluminum), these radiators are well-liked for their strength and superior heat conductivity. Because of their composition, they are an energy-efficient option for home heating because they warm up quickly and distribute heat evenly. Knowing this, you can prolong the life of your radiator in addition to enhancing its performance through care and maintenance.

There’s more to disassembling your radiator than just picking up a wrench. The most important thing is safety, so make sure the radiator is cool to the touch and the heating system is fully off. Assembling the necessary equipment, such as screwdrivers and wrenches, as well as possibly a basin to catch any leftover water, will facilitate the process and shield your home and radiator from needless damage. After you’re set up, you’ll be prepared to take on the disassembly task, making room for any necessary maintenance or repairs.

A bimetallic heating radiator should only be disassembled carefully and with the appropriate tools to prevent harm to the radiator and any nearby connections. First, switch off the heating and give the radiator time to cool fully. Empty any leftover water to avoid spills and lighten the radiator’s weight, which will make it easier to handle. Remove all valves and fittings and disconnect the radiator from its mountings, making sure to keep track of all the parts for simpler reassembly. Ensuring that every step is carried out accurately and safely can be achieved by having clear instructions and possibly even a diagram on hand.

How to disassemble, build and assemble a heating radiator

The same principle applies to the collection of radiators made of aluminum, bimetallic, or cast iron: the upper and lower sections are connected. The hollow, ring-shaped nuts with exterior carvings are known as nippel-gayki. Both ends of the thread are used. Each has unique grooves made inside of it. When the key is inserted into them during the assembly-disability, it rotates, tightening or disconnecting both sections depending on the direction of rotation. Hermeticization is achieved by placing silicone or a gasket over the nut.

Thus, the system is linked to the radiator.

In general, the following situations require you to disassemble and gather heating batteries:

• when installing a new heating system;
• if necessary, add additional sections of the radiator;
• replace the leakage section or gasket.

Dismantling of aluminum and bimetallic radiator

Before disassemble the heating battery, prepare the necessary tools. The nipple key is used as the main tool (you can rent in a specialized store for little money). It is a bar of about 700 mm long. On the one hand, the key head is welded to it with a size of 24×40 mm, and on the other, a through hole is made. You can insert a metal rod into it. With it, it will be easier to scroll around the nut. This is the main tool that is used when assembling/disassembling heating radiators on the key surface of the key. The distance between them corresponds to the width of the radiator section. By inserting the key inside the battery, and counting the number of notches, you can easily find the nipple of the desired section. Before disassemble the heating battery, you need to navigate the direction of rotation of the key. We lay the radiator on a flat horizontal surface with the front side up. On the right there will be the right thread, and on the left side of the lane. In order not to get confused, you can do it easier: we take a nut and bait one by one on the right and left, and then we conclude which direction to rotate the key. This is important because the thread is easy to disrupt and then you need to buy two new sections. Import manufacturers on plugs and feet on the front side of the section make the following thread designation: d-right, s-lane. The thread on the nipple gayka can be right or left, therefore, before disassembling the radiator, we determine which direction you need to twist, it is necessary to unscrew one section on the right. To do this, we insert the key to the upper hole to the desired place, fix it into the nipple-haijka groove and, with force, checking the key against the clockwise “tear off” from the place. Here you may need a bar inserted into the ring on the key: the force requires a decent. We make two full turns and rearrange the key to the lower part of the radiator. We repeat the operation, rotating the key in the same direction. We unscrew the nipple for 2 revolutions and here. We take out the key again and repeat the procedure for the upper part. So alternately unscrew the section completely. This is done so that there are no distortions.

How to assemble an aluminum radiator

We collect in the reverse sequence. Section we have on a flat surface (suitable sizes of the table or simply put on the floor). If the radiator is not new, we unscrew the end plug and the crane of Mayevsky. Before installation, threads and grooves should be well examined, they should be of high quality, without chips and differences. On the mounted section for the sample, we “drive” the thread, screwing the nipple. Here you need to pay attention to the fact that before threading under a layer of factory paint, there may be a gasket. Rub the end of the end of the fine sandpaper slightly, if it is found there, then it must be carefully cut with a knife with a sharp blade. So the aluminum radiator looks in the context before adding the heating radiator sections, be sure to clean the ends to the smooth surface. We even take off the factory paint. On the ends of the radiators it is not needed, but will only contribute to the early manifestation of leaks. Sooner or later, the coolant will begin to seep under the paint. In the case of non -freezing liquids, this will happen very soon, if the water is used in the system, then not very, but it will necessarily happen. And then the coolant will begin to flow between the sections, although the gaskets are still in perfect condition. And the whole point is that the paint at the ends was delayed or it corroded, microcracks appeared. So we must clean the ends to clean metal, but we use fine sandpaper so that the surface of the metal is smooth and without scratches. This guarantees the operation of the system without leak in radiators. For better tightness, the ends then need to be degreased (you can gasoline). The gaskets also degrease, but they need to be washed with ordinary soap solution. For a system that will be filled with water degreasing, an optional procedure, and for systems that will work on antifreeze, it is necessary to conduct it. Antifreezes have great fluidity and seep in the smallest pores. After everything dries, we begin to collect aluminum radiators. Then we make both nipple-haiki for half a turnover. Tarm -resistant paronite (silicone) gaskets for sealing joints are dressed on top of the nipple. Now we take the section that needs to be screwed and tightly attached to the nuts, checking the density of their fit. Next, insert the key into the upper hole and tighten it into 1-2 revolutions. At the same time, we do not use the lever yet. We twist with our hands. Then we do the same operation and in the lower hole. We repeat several times, alternately for several revolutions tightening both nuts. We unscrew the sections gradually, for one or two turns of the nut either from below or from above we twist as much as enough strength. Only after manual tightening can you use a lever. This must be done in two stages at each nippe. It is better not to apply excessive efforts with the final tightening of the nipples, since you can easily tear the thread: aluminum soft metal, do not forget. If the section is collected completely, we wind up a plug on the unused holes on one side, and on the other, the “Maevsky” crane (for air release from the system). Now you know how to assemble sections of the heating radiator and, if necessary, can grow a few sections.

Dismantling of cast -iron radiators

• accumulates heat;
• resistant to poor quality of the coolant;
• simplicity in maintenance;
• reliable and have a long service life (from 110 years and above)

How can I distinguish this grandfather? And very easy, since all radiators are constructively gathered based on the same principle: with the aid of gaskets for tightness and nipples-trips. It’s true that back then, a rubber gasket stood and a paint bag was wound around a nut.

It is evident that it will be difficult to replace cast iron radiators, which can last for 50 years in some systems.

A new radiator can be disassembled without any issues. However, you have to adjust with the old:

• Over time, the joint between the sections “clipping”;
• Inner ledges for the key are corroded under the action of the coolant.

Because of this, it can be difficult to distinguish the ancient "cast iron."

Another difficulty in working with cast iron is its great weight. The mass of one "clean" section -7.5 kg. The battery of 10 sections weighs 75 kg, so it is better to transfer it together. Before disassembling the radiator, it is best removed and rinse it. A small battery can be washed in the bath, after laying a rag. To do this, it is best to take a piece of the hose, connect to a tap with cold water and rinse well. If you feel sorry for the bath, you can go out into the yard. Only the presence of water is important, you also need a drain: there will be more than enough horror in the water.

It takes strength to wear cast-iron batteries by themselves.

The radiator disassembly area is a well-spaced, even location. If you reside in a multi-story building, the stairwell is the appropriate place to complete this work. From the necessary tools:

• radiator key;
• a chisel, a hammer, a small sledgehammer;
• a brush with a metal pile, a soldering lamp;
• a few boards or a chuckle for lining under the battery;
• Plumbing key No. 2.3 for unwinding side traffic jams (wagons) and plugs.

A few notes regarding the key: it is more likely that you will look in the market or borrow a plumbing from a friend than that you will find something comparable in the store.

The key is an 18 mm-diameter round bar. In terms of internal dimensions, it is, on the one hand, flattened into the shape of a shoulder blade, measuring 28 x 40 mm in width and 6 mm in thickness. Conversely, the rotation lever is inserted into the ring that is welded to it. A key’s length is equal to half of the biggest radiator plus about 300 mm. Such a "miracle" can be created by flattering one end of a half-inch pipe segment that works well. However, this method is limited to disassembling a brand-new radiator.

The gasket and joint flow. The cast-iron battery needs to be disassembled and changed.

In order to make the process easier, the joint needs to be warmed up using a soldering lamp or a construction hairdryer before being disassembled. Boards are required here; warm them up with a battery on them.

"Boiled" sections of problems are a common problem. They are so "akin to" that substantial physical exertion is ineffective. Next, the initial "medication" – heating. Try to promote after warming the metal to a faint glow (just use thicker gloves). Another viable option is to spin after cooling, but only after the temperature drops. In this instance, the gaskets develop microcracks, making it easier to break such a connection.

And now for the sequence of events. Before removing the plugs, we place the key over the radiator, aligning the key head with the location of the nipple to be unscrewed, and use chalk to mark the end of the section in a circle on the key body. You can use a piece of tape or isolets in place of chalk. After that, place the key into the lower inner hole and turn it slightly to the left and right along the axis to reach the created tag.

The section needs to be unscrewed in which direction now. We "make it" with the left or right side in turn if there is a nipple. We ascertain the direction of its twist. After that, you must use a key to unscrew the nut in the opposite direction. To unscrew, turn the key counterclockwise if the thread is correctly twisted (clockwise). Unscrew in a clockwise direction for left-handed thread.

Do not spin the thread through to the end just because you were able to tear it by some miraculous means. After turning the nut one revolution, turn the upper nipple in the same manner. Thus, gradually unscrew from either the top or bottom. Cast iron can split corny and dislikes distortions. Every section is promoted in the same manner.

Occasionally, the crushed section is not able to be promoted. Next, attempt to make a cut in the middle of the nipple using a knife-haired or "grinder." Simply cut the section as carefully as possible. Cast iron is, after all, a delicate material by nature. An alternative method involves using a small sledgehammer on both sides to break the middle portion of the unfit section, and then twisting the nipple with a plumbing key or knocking it out with a hammer and chisel.

It won’t always be possible to disassemble everything using just the key. The metal must frequently be heated until it glows weakly; only then will it usually be possible to separate the thread from the boiling battery.

Assembly of a cast -iron radiator

Produced in the opposite order, with the key’s rotational direction being the only difference. Remember to replace your gaskets! Paronite from the store is the best option because it is more robust, long-lasting, and resistant to coolants that are harsh (like antifreeze).

Suddenly you will not find such gaskets, you can use plumbing lin. It is wound on the right thread clockwise, and on the left, on the contrary, counterclockwise. For reliability, you can apply a sealant (for example Unilock) on the threads of the nipple gay. If you use antifreeze in the system, then you can’t apply the paint to the winding – it is very fast and you will have to weave everything. And this is a drain of the system, it was washed, to disassemble, then collect all sections … there are a lot of work. So under a system with antifreeze, use a chemical stable sealant and paronite gaskets.

Radiators made of any material can be assembled and disassembled in one scenario. The only things that can vary are weight and certain specific metal properties (like cast iron’s briefness, for example).

How to independently disassemble the heating radiator

• Dismantling of cast -iron heating radiators
• Dismantling of aluminum heating radiators

When one of the ribs on a heating radiator cracks or bursts, it becomes necessary to disassemble the radiator. In older buildings, radiators were installed with more ribs than necessary when energy conservation was not a concern. As a result, extra ribs should be removed.

Radiator heating apparatus.

Regardless of the kind, make sure the pipes are not receiving water before disassembling any heating radiators. It is preferable to collaborate.

Connecting couplings are dismantled if the heating system is installed on polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes.

It is important to make an effort to improve the drives at the section entrance and exit if the heating system is installed using steel pipes. Should it fail, as it frequently does in the old building’s apartments, the drives need to be severed using an autoge or grinder.

The battery still needs to be taken out of the wall-mounted hooks and placed on a level surface.

Dismantling of cast -iron heating radiators

Cast iron radiator disassembly can occasionally become an extremely time-consuming but necessary procedure.

Method for disassembling cast-iron heating radiators: A grouping of two radiators; B-arguing nipples and docking sections; C-connecting the third section; G-a capture by nipples of sections threads, 2-3 threads of threads; 1 – section; 2 – nipple; 3 – laying; 4 – short radiator key; 5 – crowbar; 6 – long radiator key.

A radiator, whether new or old, is positioned evenly. You must, at the very least, take out regular footballs or deaf plugs. Radiators can have either left or right threading on various sections. Footballs made of cast iron typically have left plugs and right thread. It is preferable to know before using force what kind of thread this is and which way the key should rotate if there are no disassembly skills and a free section. When disassembling cast iron batteries, you must rotate the key while proceeding if there is any remaining thread.

You must "tear off" the feet from the location, or turn them to a quarter of turnover on both sides of the battery, before you can unscrew any nuts. After that, the footballs are twisted to create a gap between the sections that is several millimeters wide. The entire structure will start to flex due to the weight of it and the effort put in if you release the footer any more. The thread may jam in this scenario. An helper should stand on the disassembled battery to stop this from happening because their weight will cause the bend to be interfered with.

Old heating radiators are typically challenging to disassemble because the foot and sections have "clipped." You will need to use a soldering lamp or an autoogen to disassemble such a battery. Circular motions are used to warm up the connection point. The footballs are twisted as soon as the weather gets warm enough. The steps are repeated if the first attempt at removal proved unsuccessful.

You will need to lengthen the key if your strength is insufficient to remove the battery. As a racal, a regular pipe is employed.

In a similar vein, integrated nipples for raising cast-iron radiators are on show.

If the methods for disassembling the cast-iron battery are taken into consideration, then the last option is to break it while lying down with a sledgehammer or cut it with a grinder or autogen. You must carefully cut or divide one section. Following this procedure, the clutch between the sections might become less strong, allowing the battery to separate and preserve the sections that are left.

Since the feet of the old cast-iron batteries were sealed with paint and flax, using a "liquid key" or WD liquid has no effect because the liquids will not fall into the thread.

Go back to the contents table.

Dismantling of aluminum heating radiators

Aluminum heating radiator design.

Cast iron is similar to aluminum or bimetallic heating radiators, however there are a few minor variations:

• These are smaller keys and nipples;
• As a rule, these are new products, therefore, when disassembling them, it is not necessary to make such significant efforts as in the case of cast -iron;
• On the front side of the plugs and the batter there are designations S and D, respectively, for the left and right threads.

To seal the spaces between the sections, metal gaskets are installed. They ought to be cleaned, wiped, and stored for later assembly after disassembly.

Gaskets under the corks are typically made of silicone; after assembly, they become unusable and need to be replaced with new ones.

A lot of aluminum section models are not very attractive. It will not be possible to reassemble them after you have disassembled them.

You’ll need the following supplies and tools for disassembly:

• Disassembly keys (5/4 inches – for cast -iron batteries, 1 inch – for aluminum or bimetallic);
• gas key;
• divorce (plumbing) key No. 2-3;
• Bulgarian with metal disk;
• blowtorch;
• gas cutter (autogen);
• A piece of steel pipe.

It must be considered that the work described is noisy and dirty. It must therefore be agreed upon with the neighbors.

Utilizing the previously mentioned advice and suggestions, as well as a tool if available, disassemble and gather heating batteries by hand.

Even though disassembling a bimetallic heating radiator can seem difficult, it can be made much easier if you know how to do it. You’ve been guided through every step of the disassembly process in this guide to make sure you can do it safely and effectively. Recall that planning is essential for a successful disassembly. To prevent mishaps, make sure you gather all required equipment and fully turn off the heating system.

It’s crucial to use caution when taking out a bimetallic radiator to avoid damaging it or the nearby fixtures. Care should be taken with every part, particularly with connections and seals, as these are vital to avoid leaks when reassembling or replacing the radiator. As you remove parts, keep them organized to make the process of reassembling or getting ready for a new installation easier.

Finally, don’t be afraid to seek professional assistance if you run into any problems or questions while disassembling the component. Although many homeowners can complete this task with the correct equipment and direction, professional advice is always the best way to guarantee the effectiveness and safety of your heating system. Professional intervention can also avoid expensive mistakes or needless harm to your heating system.

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