How to disassemble an aluminum heating radiator with your own hands

Because aluminum radiators are lightweight, strong, and efficient, they are frequently used to heat homes. But these radiators might need to be replaced or maintained over time. Although disassembling an aluminum heating radiator may seem difficult, it is possible to accomplish it on your own with the correct equipment and know-how. We’ll walk you through the precise steps of safely and successfully disassembling an aluminum heating radiator in this guide.

Making sure you’re safe is crucial before you start. Before you begin, make sure the radiator is completely cold. Furthermore, to shield your floor from any water or debris that might leak out of the radiator during disassembly, you might want to place down towels or a drop cloth. After completing these safety measures, you’re prepared to begin.

Finding the bleed valve is the first step in disassembling an aluminum heating radiator. This valve, which is used to release any trapped air, is often found at the top of the radiator. To open the valve and let any air out from inside, use a radiator bleed key. Have a container close at hand to collect any additional water that may drip out.

The side panels of the radiator must then be removed. The majority of aluminum radiators have handily removable snap-on side panels. All you have to do is find the tabs or clips that are holding the panel in place and slowly remove them from the radiator. The interior of the radiator will be accessible once the side panels are taken off.

Step 1	Prepare the necessary tools: a wrench, a screwdriver, and a bucket.
Step 2	Turn off the heating system and let the radiator cool down.
Step 3	Locate the valve at the bottom of the radiator and use the wrench to close it.
Step 4	Use the screwdriver to remove the vent valve located at the top of the radiator.
Step 5	Place the bucket under the valve to catch any water remaining in the radiator.
Step 6	Use the wrench to disconnect the radiator from the pipes.
Step 7	Once disconnected, carefully lift the radiator off the brackets and place it on the floor.

How to disassemble, build and assemble a heating radiator

The same principle applies to the collection of radiators made of aluminum, bimetallic, or cast iron: the upper and lower sections are connected. The hollow, ring-shaped nuts with exterior carvings are known as nippel-gayki. Both ends of the thread are used. Each has unique grooves made inside of it. When the key is inserted into them during the assembly-disability, it rotates, tightening or disconnecting both sections depending on the direction of rotation. Hermeticization is achieved by placing silicone or a gasket over the nut.

Thus, the system is linked to the radiator.

In general, the following situations require you to disassemble and gather heating batteries:

• when installing a new heating system;
• if necessary, add additional sections of the radiator;
• replace the leakage section or gasket.

Dismantling of aluminum and bimetallic radiator

Before disassemble the heating battery, prepare the necessary tools. The nipple key is used as the main tool (you can rent in a specialized store for little money). It is a bar of about 700 mm long. On the one hand, the key head is welded to it with a size of 24×40 mm, and on the other, a through hole is made. You can insert a metal rod into it. With it, it will be easier to scroll around the nut. This is the main tool that is used when assembling/disassembling heating radiators on the key surface of the key. The distance between them corresponds to the width of the radiator section. By inserting the key inside the battery, and counting the number of notches, you can easily find the nipple of the desired section. Before disassemble the heating battery, you need to navigate the direction of rotation of the key. We lay the radiator on a flat horizontal surface with the front side up. On the right there will be the right thread, and on the left side of the lane. In order not to get confused, you can do it easier: we take a nut and bait one by one on the right and left, and then we conclude which direction to rotate the key. This is important because the thread is easy to disrupt and then you need to buy two new sections. Import manufacturers on plugs and feet on the front side of the section make the following thread designation: d-right, s-lane. The thread on the nipple gayka can be right or left, therefore, before disassembling the radiator, we determine which direction you need to twist, it is necessary to unscrew one section on the right. To do this, we insert the key to the upper hole to the desired place, fix it into the nipple-haijka groove and, with force, checking the key against the clockwise “tear off” from the place. Here you may need a bar inserted into the ring on the key: the force requires a decent. We make two full turns and rearrange the key to the lower part of the radiator. We repeat the operation, rotating the key in the same direction. We unscrew the nipple for 2 revolutions and here. We take out the key again and repeat the procedure for the upper part. So alternately unscrew the section completely. This is done so that there are no distortions.

How to assemble an aluminum radiator

We collect in the reverse sequence. Section we have on a flat surface (suitable sizes of the table or simply put on the floor). If the radiator is not new, we unscrew the end plug and the crane of Mayevsky. Before installation, threads and grooves should be well examined, they should be of high quality, without chips and differences. On the mounted section for the sample, we “drive” the thread, screwing the nipple. Here you need to pay attention to the fact that before threading under a layer of factory paint, there may be a gasket. Rub the end of the end of the fine sandpaper slightly, if it is found there, then it must be carefully cut with a knife with a sharp blade. So the aluminum radiator looks in the context before adding the heating radiator sections, be sure to clean the ends to the smooth surface. We even take off the factory paint. On the ends of the radiators it is not needed, but will only contribute to the early manifestation of leaks. Sooner or later, the coolant will begin to seep under the paint. In the case of non -freezing liquids, this will happen very soon, if the water is used in the system, then not very, but it will necessarily happen. And then the coolant will begin to flow between the sections, although the gaskets are still in perfect condition. And the whole point is that the paint at the ends was delayed or it corroded, microcracks appeared. So we must clean the ends to clean metal, but we use fine sandpaper so that the surface of the metal is smooth and without scratches. This guarantees the operation of the system without leak in radiators. For better tightness, the ends then need to be degreased (you can gasoline). The gaskets also degrease, but they need to be washed with ordinary soap solution. For a system that will be filled with water degreasing, an optional procedure, and for systems that will work on antifreeze, it is necessary to conduct it. Antifreezes have great fluidity and seep in the smallest pores. After everything dries, we begin to collect aluminum radiators. Then we make both nipple-haiki for half a turnover. Tarm -resistant paronite (silicone) gaskets for sealing joints are dressed on top of the nipple. Now we take the section that needs to be screwed and tightly attached to the nuts, checking the density of their fit. Next, insert the key into the upper hole and tighten it into 1-2 revolutions. At the same time, we do not use the lever yet. We twist with our hands. Then we do the same operation and in the lower hole. We repeat several times, alternately for several revolutions tightening both nuts. We unscrew the sections gradually, for one or two turns of the nut either from below or from above we twist as much as enough strength. Only after manual tightening can you use a lever. This must be done in two stages at each nippe. It is better not to apply excessive efforts with the final tightening of the nipples, since you can easily tear the thread: aluminum soft metal, do not forget. If the section is collected completely, we wind up a plug on the unused holes on one side, and on the other, the “Maevsky” crane (for air release from the system). Now you know how to assemble sections of the heating radiator and, if necessary, can grow a few sections.

Dismantling of cast -iron radiators

• accumulates heat;
• resistant to poor quality of the coolant;
• simplicity in maintenance;
• reliable and have a long service life (from 110 years and above)

How can I distinguish this grandfather? And very easy, since all radiators are constructively gathered based on the same principle: with the aid of gaskets for tightness and nipples-trips. It’s true that back then, a rubber gasket stood and a paint bag was wound around a nut.

It is evident that it will be difficult to replace cast iron radiators, which can last for 50 years in some systems.

A new radiator can be disassembled without any issues. However, you have to adjust with the old:

• Over time, the joint between the sections “clipping”;
• Inner ledges for the key are corroded under the action of the coolant.

Because of this, it can be difficult to distinguish the ancient "cast iron."

Another difficulty in working with cast iron is its great weight. The mass of one "clean" section -7.5 kg. The battery of 10 sections weighs 75 kg, so it is better to transfer it together. Before disassembling the radiator, it is best removed and rinse it. A small battery can be washed in the bath, after laying a rag. To do this, it is best to take a piece of the hose, connect to a tap with cold water and rinse well. If you feel sorry for the bath, you can go out into the yard. Only the presence of water is important, you also need a drain: there will be more than enough horror in the water.

It takes strength to wear cast-iron batteries by themselves.

The radiator disassembly area is a well-spaced, even location. If you reside in a multi-story building, the stairwell is the appropriate place to complete this work. From the necessary tools:

• radiator key;
• a chisel, a hammer, a small sledgehammer;
• a brush with a metal pile, a soldering lamp;
• a few boards or a chuckle for lining under the battery;
• Plumbing key No. 2.3 for unwinding side traffic jams (wagons) and plugs.

A few notes regarding the key: it is more likely that you will look in the market or borrow a plumbing from a friend than that you will find something comparable in the store.

The key is an 18 mm-diameter round bar. In terms of internal dimensions, it is, on the one hand, flattened into the shape of a shoulder blade, measuring 28 x 40 mm in width and 6 mm in thickness. Conversely, the rotation lever is inserted into the ring that is welded to it. A key’s length is equal to half of the biggest radiator plus about 300 mm. Such a "miracle" can be created by flattering one end of a half-inch pipe segment that works well. However, this method is limited to disassembling a brand-new radiator.

The gasket and joint flow. The cast-iron battery needs to be disassembled and changed.

In order to make the process easier, the joint needs to be warmed up using a soldering lamp or a construction hairdryer before being disassembled. Boards are required here; warm them up with a battery on them.

"Boiled" sections of problems are a common problem. They are so "akin to" that substantial physical exertion is ineffective. Next, the initial "medication" – heating. Try to promote after warming the metal to a faint glow (just use thicker gloves). Another viable option is to spin after cooling, but only after the temperature drops. In this instance, the gaskets develop microcracks, making it easier to break such a connection.

And now for the sequence of events. Before removing the plugs, we place the key over the radiator, aligning the key head with the location of the nipple to be unscrewed, and use chalk to mark the end of the section in a circle on the key body. You can use a piece of tape or isolets in place of chalk. After that, place the key into the lower inner hole and turn it slightly to the left and right along the axis to reach the created tag.

The section needs to be unscrewed in which direction now. We "make it" with the left or right side in turn if there is a nipple. We ascertain the direction of its twist. After that, you must use a key to unscrew the nut in the opposite direction. To unscrew, turn the key counterclockwise if the thread is correctly twisted (clockwise). Unscrew in a clockwise direction for left-handed thread.

Do not spin the thread through to the end just because you were able to tear it by some miraculous means. After turning the nut one revolution, turn the upper nipple in the same manner. Thus, gradually unscrew from either the top or bottom. Cast iron can split corny and dislikes distortions. Every section is promoted in the same manner.

Occasionally, the crushed section is not able to be promoted. Next, attempt to make a cut in the middle of the nipple using a knife-haired or "grinder." Simply cut the section as carefully as possible. Cast iron is, after all, a delicate material by nature. An alternative method involves using a small sledgehammer on both sides to break the middle portion of the unfit section, and then twisting the nipple with a plumbing key or knocking it out with a hammer and chisel.

It won’t always be possible to disassemble everything using just the key. The metal must frequently be heated until it glows weakly; only then will it usually be possible to separate the thread from the boiling battery.

Assembly of a cast -iron radiator

Produced in the opposite order, with the key’s rotational direction being the only difference. Remember to replace your gaskets! Paronite from the store is the best option because it is more robust, long-lasting, and resistant to coolants that are harsh (like antifreeze).

Suddenly you will not find such gaskets, you can use plumbing lin. It is wound on the right thread clockwise, and on the left, on the contrary, counterclockwise. For reliability, you can apply a sealant (for example Unilock) on the threads of the nipple gay. If you use antifreeze in the system, then you can’t apply the paint to the winding – it is very fast and you will have to weave everything. And this is a drain of the system, it was washed, to disassemble, then collect all sections … there are a lot of work. So under a system with antifreeze, use a chemical stable sealant and paronite gaskets.

Radiators made of any material can be assembled and disassembled in one scenario. The only things that can vary are weight and certain specific metal properties (like cast iron’s briefness, for example).

How to disassemble an aluminum heating radiator with your own hands

Every home may need to disassemble the heating batteries. Should a section leak, it must be either replaced or taken out. When the current ribs are not warm enough to make the room the right temperature, more must be added. Additionally, you must take down the additional sections if the apartment gets too hot during the heating season. Professional assistance is provided for solving such issues, but if money is tight, you may need to learn how to build a heating radiator on your own. This will obtain valuable experience and save.

How to use your hands to identify a heating radiator

Design of heating radiators

The heating element needs to be fixed or replaced right away if it breaks down, especially during the winter. Depending on the style of design, it may be possible to disassemble the radio. Non-graceful radiators that are not subject to restoration are frequently installed in apartments. It is best to buy a new battery right away in this situation. However, some collapsible models can be disassembled and the damaged element replaced before reinstalling.

Items are separated into two primary categories:

1. Sectional batteries collected from several identical sections, reliably interconnected. In each of them there is a channel through which water circulates, and the ribs that radiating heat heat the room. Sectional batteries are the most popular, since the cost of such radiators below. If a breakdown occurs, it is enough to replace only the damaged section, and if necessary, you can always add or remove the ribs.

Batteries with sectional heating

1. Monolithic products are one whole design that does not have separate sections. By external signs, these radiators can resemble sectional counterparts, but the differences between them are obvious. There are no connecting joints in monolithic devices, due to which they can withstand greater pressure. From this and the timing of the non -precious operation of these structures is almost twice as much as the sectional. But in the case of leakage, the monolithic device will have to be completely changed. In sectional products, it will be enough to replace the damaged element.

Monolithic bimetallic radiator

You can safely and efficiently disassemble your radiator by following the easy steps outlined in our guide, "How to disassemble an aluminum heating radiator with your own hands." Understanding how to disassemble a radiator is crucial, regardless of whether you’re remodeling your house or simply need to clean or paint it. The radiator panels are easily removable, allowing you to access the interior for upkeep or repairs with the correct equipment and safety measures. You can easily disassemble your aluminum heating radiator by following our easy-to-follow instructions.

Preparation for disassembly

At this point, you must gather all required instruments and remove the battery from its fastening location. Depending on the radiator’s type and condition, the following tools might be required for the job:

• radiator (nipple) key;
• a divorce key or a set of finding keys with different head size;
• autogen or a grinder;
• construction hair dryer;
• hammer, sledgehammer;
• chisel.

Disassembly tools for heating batteries

An iron rod with a hole or bent "ear" on one end and a head shaped like a scapula on the other is called a nipple key. The cutters on the tool you bought in the store are spaced apart by the width of the heating radiator sections. They will assist in locating the required nipple-gayki.

Once the tools are ready, a location for radiator disassembly must be furnished. An appropriate floor or sturdy table. Remember that the battery will leak dirty water, and make sure you place a waterproof cloth underneath.

Dismantling of bimetallic and aluminum sectional products

In order to extract the radiator from its mounting location and disconnect it from the system, the following steps must be taken:

1. Stop the water circulation and lose the pressure.
2. If the heating battery is hot, you need to wait until it cools down, and then disconnect from the system. To do this, unscrew the connecting couplings at the input and output.
3. Put the coupling from the radiator through the pipe remove the device from the brackets.
4. Drain the remaining water and put the product in place of disassembly by the front side up.
5. Pull out and wash the filter immediately so that the pollution does not dry out on it.

Disassembling aluminum sectional productsand bimetallic products

The radiator is divided into distinct sections at this point. You must determine which direction to twist the nipple-haike in order to prevent damage during the procedure. This component is a ring-shaped nut with grooves on both sides and an external thread. One nut has both left and right thread on it at the same time. When you unscrew it, the batteries’ adjacent sections will expand uniformly and tighten when you twist them.

The thread directions are usually marked by the manufacturer on the front side of the plugs and cubes. "D" indicates a right-sided thread, while "s" indicates a left-handed thread. It is advised to try making a nipple-gayka on the radiator’s thread with a free one in order to precisely ascertain the direction of motion. Once you’ve determined which way it’s twisted, it will be obvious how to turn the key to separate the sections.

Crucial!You can easily break the threads on the nipple-gayka and the heating battery if it is twisted the wrong way.

Once the thread direction has been determined, advance to the desired nut by inserting the nipple key into the radiator. This can be accomplished with the tool’s notch. Put a lever into the opening on his opposite side once he is in the grooves. You have to exert yourself to get the nut out of there. To fix the radiator all in one location, call the helper.

Bimetallic radiator repair

Оогда гайка продвинется на половину оборота, переходите на другую сторону, чтобы открутить вторую, и выполните такие же действия. After confirming that both nuts spin without requiring a lot of physical force, carefully unscrew one by moving it 5-7 mm.

Positioning in between radiator sections

After the sections have been separated, remove the metal gaskets that were in between them. If they are in good shape, you can reinstall them during assembly; if not, you can use them as a model for new ones. Silicone gaskets eventually need to be replaced.

Dismantling of a cast -iron radiator

Heating battery made of cast iron

Generally speaking, cast iron products have been a fixture in apartments for many years. In this sense, it is frequently impossible to examine them without endangering them. Spin the drives at the input and output to take the battery out of its mounting position. Should this prove ineffective, it will need to be severed using an autogen or grinder. The product is disassembled, cleaned, and placed on a level surface.

Using a grinder, cut off the old battery.

The joints between sections, nippel-gayki, and other individual elements are boiled to each other after many years of operation. As a result, disassembly calls for more physical strength than when assembling brand-new heating radiators. Use the tool to heat the connection points if the nut is not unscrewed. It will be simpler to disconnect the boiled areas once they are heated.

Suggestion: You can use a soldering lamp, autoogen, or building hair dryer for heating.

The product cannot be disassembled if the rust corroded the grooves meant to hold the key in the connecting nuts. Using a sledgehammer to mechanically break the damaged section is an effective way to remove it, but there is a significant risk of damaging the entire structure. Another option is to attempt cutting the battery in the joint by using a knife or grinder with sharp edges.

We examine the outdated battery.

Once the damaged section has been separated from the rest of the structure, use a hammer and chisel to try and remove the nipple-gays. It was simpler to work and draw in an assistant. Because cast-iron products are so heavy, removing and disassembling the radiator with just your hands might not be possible. It weighs roughly 7.5 kg in one section. As a result, a battery divided into ten sections will pull 75 kg.

Diagram showing how to disassemble cast-iron heating radiators.

This can be completed quickly and safely if we know how to remove a heating radiator using just our hands. The most important thing is to assemble the required equipment and expertise. Issues with outdated batteries could occur. However, if you’re fortunate, the appropriate sections will be received. You’ll need to purchase a new heating element if not.

Photo gallery (14 photos)

It’s crucial to follow the correct procedures when disassembling an aluminum heating radiator in order to prevent damage and maintain safety. To begin with, turn off the heating system and allow the radiator to cool fully.

Next, find the bleed valve and drain the radiator of water by using a radiator key to release any pressure that has built up. After the water has been drained, you can start disassembling the radiator by taking off the side panels, top grille, and internal parts last.

To make it easier to reassemble the radiator later, be sure to record the sequence in which you remove the parts. Before reassembly, make sure all the parts are clean and free of any wear or damage.

These instructions will allow you to safely disassemble an aluminum heating radiator and do any required DIY maintenance or repairs, saving you both money and time.

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