How to correctly install a circulation pump in a heating system

Comfort and economy depend on your home’s heating system, which is especially important in the winter. A heating system’s circulation pump is one essential part. This tiny but essential gadget is essential to keeping the hot water in your home’s heating system flowing properly. To ensure optimal performance and maximize its effectiveness, a circulation pump must be installed correctly.

Understanding how a circulation pump functions is essential before beginning the installation process. Basically, the job of a circulation pump is to force hot water from the boiler or other heating source through the heating system’s pipes and radiators in your house. This makes sure that the warmth is distributed evenly throughout the room, making it a comfortable place to live.

There are a few things to think about when installing a circulation pump. The most important thing to do is choose the appropriate pump for your heating system. Selecting a pump that aligns with your unique setup and heating needs is crucial, as they differ in terms of size, power, and features. When choosing a pump, don’t forget to take energy efficiency and noise levels into account.

Following your selection of the suitable circulation pump for your heating system, the installation procedure comes next. Although you can install a circulation pump on your own, it’s best to get professional help, particularly if you’re not experienced with heating or plumbing systems. Nonetheless, installing a circulation pump can be a doable task if you have some experience with do-it-yourself projects and are confident in your abilities.

Paying close attention to details is essential during the installation process. For the pump to operate at its best and last a long time, it must be positioned inside the heating system, the pipes must be lined up correctly, and the connections must be tight. Furthermore, preventing heat loss and increasing efficiency can be achieved by making sure the pump is properly insulated.

You can have consistent warmth and comfort throughout your house and possibly save money on energy bills by installing a circulation pump in your heating system according to the right procedures and guidelines. A well-functioning heating system that keeps you warm all year long can be achieved by placing a high priority on accuracy and precision, regardless of whether you decide to install it yourself or hire a professional.

Step Description
1 Choose the right location for the pump, typically near the boiler.
2 Turn off the power to the heating system to ensure safety.
3 Identify the flow direction of the water in the pipes.
4 Shut off the water supply to the heating system.
5 Drain water from the system to avoid leaks.
6 Mount the pump onto the pipes with proper fittings.
7 Connect the electrical wiring to the pump following manufacturer instructions.
8 Open valves to allow water flow and pressure test the system.
9 Check for any leaks and ensure proper operation of the pump.
10 Turn on the power and monitor the system for any issues.
Contents
  1. Equipment installation requirements
  2. Features of the installation of the pump in the system with natural circulation of the coolant
  3. Popular manufacturers
  4. Italian pump Aquario
  5. Italian device DAB VA-VB-VD
  6. Grundfos
  7. Russian models
  8. How to correctly install a pump with your own hands in a private house
  9. The correct installation circuit
  10. On the installation of additional units
  11. Why is a pump for heating in a private house
  12. Binding options
  13. 1. Gravitational or natural strapping
  14. 2. Forced strapping
  15. 3. Combined strapping
  16. How to install it with your own hands
  17. At what speed should the pump work in the heating system
  18. Where to put
  19. Forced circulation
  20. Natural circulation
  21. Features of installation
  22. What is good pumping heating systems
  23. Determination of technical parameters
  24. Ways to connect an additional device how to put it
  25. Recommendations on the procedure for installing the pump
  26. Useful tips
  27. Connection to power supply
  28. Circular pump selection criteria
  29. Performance
  30. How to choose the right water pump for heating
  31. Calculation of the required pressure and volumetric feed, video:
  32. Features of forced circulation
  33. Advantages
  34. Flaws
  35. 5 We mount the pump unit sequence and important points
  36. How to start the pump
  37. 2 where and how to connect the pump
  38. 2.1 how to install a pump so that it works when turning off the electricity?
  39. 2.2 How to correctly install the pump in the heating system? (video)
  40. 2.3 Additional pressure apparatus
  41. Types of pumps
  42. Dry
  43. Wet
  44. Starting system
  45. Criteria for competent choice of equipment
  46. The main varieties of pumps
  47. Brief overview of technical characteristics
  48. Requirements for the installation of a circulation pump
  49. Device
  50. The purpose of the pump for heating
  51. Manufacturers and prices
  52. Video on the topic
  53. How to mount a pump correctly
  54. Proper installation of the ValTec circulation pump circulation pump
  55. Household tricks. How to correctly install a circulation pump for heating.
  56. Proper installation of the pump in the heating system

Equipment installation requirements

The system needs to have a closed-type expansion tank installed along with a circulation pump.

The installation of the circulation pump and its strapping components must be done correctly for the forced supply system of coolant to function for a long time and dependably.

  1. The system must be installed in an expansion tank, which is connected to the reverse pipeline.
  2. In order to prevent the formation of air plugs inside the pump, the shaft of its engine must be placed in a horizontal plane. Otherwise, a deterioration in the cooling and lubrication of the moving parts of the unit is possible, as a result of which it may fail.
  3. Before the pump, it is necessary to install a coarse filter. Its use helps to increase the service life of equipment due to filtering the coolant from abrasive particles that inevitably appear during the operation of the heating system.

Make sure to install a filter-gryazer with your hands by moving in the same direction as the fluid. Installing a protective element with a cork down is advised. Therefore, it will not add to the resistance to the coolant’s flow, and dirt removal also makes it easier.

By using a coarse cleaning filter, you can prevent premature wear on the pump blades.

Features of the installation of the pump in the system with natural circulation of the coolant

All contour sections must have a minimum hydraulic resistance in order to guarantee heating performance when the electricity is turned off. Any turns or modifications to the highway, the resistance of shut-off equipment, and a reduction in the pipeline’s cross-section all impede the thermal agent’s normal movement. Therefore, the following guidelines are followed when installing the circulation pump:

  • The insert is performed without opening the main contour, in the parallel to it. The required diameter of the pipeline should be at least 32 mm, and the cross section of the pipes for connecting the pump is a quarter less;
  • Before the pump and after it, shut -off valves are installed so that if the equipment malfunctions, it can be dismantled without the need to discharge the coolant;
  • A ball valve is mounted on the site between the pump insert inserts, which is blocked during the forced supply of the coolant. Otherwise, he will circulate in a small circle, between the places of the tuft of the pump.

The placement of the circulation pump’s components in the proper order

Installing a check valve rather than a ball valve will help if the switching process is automated when there is no electricity. Until the pump is stopped and the pressure in front of the valve is greater than the working spring’s effort, the so-called bypass will remain closed.

Installing a ball-type device is the best option because spring check valves have the drawback of adding resistance to the fluid flow.

A check valve can be installed to automate the bypass process.

The decision regarding which device to buy has an impact beyond its technical specifications. Customers most often recognize a brand or manufacturer by it. Today’s market has a comparatively large selection. Here are both domestic and foreign analogs. Just a few models are shown here.

Italian pump Aquario

Its most well-liked model is the AC204-130. utilized for tiny private residences. It weighs 3.4 kg and has a power of 2.4 m³/h with a pressure of up to 3 m. Its power consumption is 0.64 kW.

Features three speed modes and a flange connection.

Italian device DAB VA-VB-VD

Its technical features are varied and include a pressure of up to 6 m and a power of 0.5 to 3.3 m³/h.

A unique thermal relay on this sample shuts off the pump in the event that it overheats. A lot of experts suggest going with this specific model.

Grundfos

Grundfos, a Danish company, offers five different types of pumps. The UPS model, which uses the least amount of electricity (0.55 kW), has become very popular in Russia.

In this instance, the pumped coolant volume is 3 m³/h and its pressure is 3 m.

Russian models

The "Circul" pump from the company "Dzhilex" and the Master brand pump from Podolsk are two of the domestic manufacturers that must be highlighted. A few technical attributes:

  • Master 4.25.180 – pressure 4.2 m, power 3 m³/h;
  • Master 8.32.180 – pressure 8 m, power 9.6 m³/h;
  • Circular 25/40 (pressure 4 m, volume 2.5 m³/h) – the smallest sample;
  • Circular 32/80 (pressure 8 m, volume 3.2 m³/h) – the largest.

These brands manufacture pumps that have a flange connection to the pipeline. Thus, by being aware of the various brands and models that manufacturers offer, you can select the ideal pump by considering both its technical attributes and cost.

How to correctly install a pump with your own hands in a private house

The rotor’s direction is among the most crucial factors. There’s a good chance the system will need to be redone if the installation is vertical. Consider the fluid current that flows through pipes as well. For this, the device has an arrow.

It is irrelevant what the installation principle is. Examine the instructions to see if they can be applied to any specific plans. When making your decision, consider the decrease in power. The pump should not be installed horizontally.

The correct installation circuit

Frequently makes use of installing the pump on the bypass. It makes the system functional even when the electricity is turned off. This also holds true in the event that the circulator malfunctions, enabling part replacement without emptying the water tank.

Photo 1. The scheme of the heating system. The location of the circulation pump installation is indicated by the number nine.

It will be necessary to install:

  • pump;
  • unit nuts or flange joints (included in the kit);
  • filter;
  • cutting taps;
  • Bypass and valve for it.

You’ll need room to install. Depending on the building’s features, you might have to create a project.

When making a strapping that has water circulation forced into it It is advised to install a specific pipe segment designed for the pump. Although they are uncommon, they make the work much easier. You should search for the assembled device for the same reason. If not, you will need to involve a specialist or carry out the procedure by yourself. The fasteners and material are what determine the assembly principle. The latter categorizes the devices into two types: plastic and metal, which require intricate welding.

It rarely takes longer than an hour to install. Steel pipes that need intricate connections made are exempt from this. Avoid making errors in length calculations during installation. The following is the work:

  1. Preparation: selection of components and their purchase.
  2. Choosing tools: You will need keys, sealant, possibly, welding machine.
  3. First, three nodes are packed on the pacli: two for the pump and one for the crane. The former are distinguished by the presence of the filter. The latter is placed in the lower part, combining the pipe and the. It is applied, planning the place of installation. And also think over the points of the junction.
  4. Then collect the loop, without completely twisting the nuts. At this stage, measurements are carried out, determining the characteristics of the node.
  5. Cut parts of the pipeline are placed along the general axis on arbitrary stops. The loop is tightened, then the structure is welded. Before the next step, it is recommended to remove the pump so as not to damage.
  6. Fasten the bottom, acting. Having packed the last, the pump is returned to the place. The rotor is aligned along the horizontal axis. The nuts are tightened, fixing the position of the structure. The joints are smeared with sealant and move to the electrical part of the process if it is required.

Once the installation is finished, you cannot perform the check right away. The coolant is first poured into the strapping. Open the crane so that air does not collect in the loop at this time. If there is a gas outlet, you can skip this step. The hole is blocked when water flows out of it. After the pipes are fully filled, perform a second procedure. After that, everything is tightened once more, sealed with lubricant, and operations begin.

On the installation of additional units

One circulation pump will usually suffice in a closed or open radiator heating system where the boiler acts as the only source of heat. Additional units—possibly two or more—are used to pump water in more intricate schemes. Under these circumstances:

  • when more than one boiler plant is involved in the heating of a private house;
  • if a buffer container is involved in the strapping scheme;
  • The heating system has several branches serving various consumers – batteries, warm floors and an indirect heating boiler;
  • The same, using a hydraulic separator (hydraulic shotus);
  • to organize water circulation in the contours of warm floors.

Each boiler operating on a different fuel type needs to have its own pump unit for proper strapping, as demonstrated by the joint connection of the electric and TT-cats. We explain how it works in our other article.

The TT-boiler and electric

Because the circuit with the buffer capacity involves at least two circulation circuits—the boiler and the heating system—an additional pump is installed in it.

The system is divided into two contours by the buffer container, though there are actually more

A separate story is a multi-branch, complex heating scheme used in large cottages with two to four stories. Here, three to eight pumping devices—or more—can be used to supply coolant to various heating sources and stamping operations. Below is an example of a scheme of this kind.

When heating the house with heated floors, the second circulation pump is installed last. It works in tandem with the mixing node to prepare a coolant that ranges in temperature from 35 to 45 °C. The following describes the scheme’s operating principle.

Due to the pump unit, coolant is forced to circulate over the warm floors’ contours.

Remind yourself. Pumping devices don’t always need to be installed on heating systems. The majority of wall-type electric and gas heat generators come with internal pumping units integrated into their design.

Why is a pump for heating in a private house

The conventional heating system that allows the coolant to circulate naturally is inefficient since the liquid’s turnover is slowed down by the constant resistance it must overcome. As a result, the coolant is brought back to the boiler already chilled, necessitating the use of additional energy to bring it up to temperature.

Reconstruction with smaller diameter pipes can only address a portion of the issue; additionally, the expenses involved here are significantly greater than those of the circular pump, which is required to force a uniform flow of coolant through the system’s pipeline.

The system’s pump operates on a very basic principle that is founded in the laws of thermodynamics: the coolant is forced into the system at the entrance and is forced out at the output by the impeller’s centrifugal force, which creates a circular pump.

Private homes’ autonomous heating systems are typically designed with the pump in mind, but updating an outdated system can boost its efficiency by 25–35% while lowering energy usage dramatically.

This is made possible by the system’s accelerated coolant turnover, which returns to the boiler without wasting any of its thermal energy after completing a full cycle. Consequently, less effort is needed to heat it, which results in energy savings.

Given that a system involving forced coolant circulation must have a Baypass established for the circulation pump, which is responsible for carrying out the following tasks:

  • the possibility of switching the system to the natural circulation mode, for example, when turning off electricity or the need to carry out repair work in a particular area;
  • As a device for adjusting the temperature in the room.

Generally speaking, a forced coolant circulation system requires installing bypas in each room. These bypas come with a filter, shut-off valves, and in certain situations, an automated air removal valve (a substitute for Maevsky’s crane).

Since circular pumps of the so-called "wet" type are most frequently installed in private homes in the middle area, the bypass installation should be done horizontally, and its diameter should match both the diameter of the locking valve and the size of the pipe it is connected to.

Binding options

In order to guarantee that the primary device is integrated with the overall system, binding is a set of extra nodes installed in the system. The type of circulation employed in the heating system determines the composition of the pump’s binding.

There are three that stand out:

1. Gravitational or natural strapping

Because the liquid in this type expands when heated and decreases in volume when cooled, the movement of the coolant is guaranteed. This has an impact on the pressure that rises or falls in the pipes that are positioned slightly angled toward the boiler. The lowest point is where the heating unit is situated. High pressure causes heated, warm water to rise to the furthest point. The cooled liquid re-enters the boiler upon return. This system configuration eliminates the need for extra water pumping equipment.

2. Forced strapping

In this instance, additional devices that can be installed directly into the system and be part of the boiler’s structure are ensured by the fluids moving through the pipes. Pipes and boilers can be mounted without the need for special permissions.

This option is the most effective from the position of fast and uniform heating of the room, but has some negative features. Complete energy dependence requires the presence of protective equipment in the structure of the boiler in case of turning off the power supply. The lack of circulation can cause boiling fluid in the heat exchanger. The entire heating structure will not be able to work without power supply, which is not always convenient in regions where its systematic disconnects take place.
The operation of pumping equipment consumes, albeit a little, but constantly electricity, which leads to additional financial expenses.
Pump can be built into such a system as directly into the return and through Bypass.

3. Combined strapping

This is the most widely used and ideal system. This kind of heating structure can only have the pumping device mounted by installing bypas. This enables you to heat the space with or without the pump, depending on how the boilers and pipes are set up.

Three components make up controversial reinforcement used in strapping: mud, valves, and check valves.

By positioning the valve between the pumping device and the boiler, it stops the liquid from receiving a return flow when the device is stopped.

Ball valves are the best parts to use when strapping because they don’t obstruct fluid flow when they’re open.

How to install it with your own hands

Experts differentiate between two types of forced-circulation heating schemes: single-pipe and two-pipe. The selection of one or more options affects not only the contour wiring principle but also the pipeline length, the kind and quantity of shut-off, regulating, and controlling equipment.

A single-pipe system’s schematic featuring a circulation pump

Heating radiators are progressively added to the circuit in a one-pipe heating system. Only after passing alternating through each of the heating system’s devices does the coolant return via a different pipeline to the boiler. This method’s drawback is that the radiators nearer the thermal unit warm up faster than the radiators farther away, shortening the equipment’s service life and decreasing thermal efficiency. At every stage of the system, the introduction of the circulation pump is achieved through temperature alignment.

Diagram of a heating system with two pipes

Since all heating devices are connected to the feed and reverse highway in parallel, two-pipe wiring has advantages over one-pipe wiring in terms of uniform temperature distribution throughout all rooms. Increasing the heating system’s efficiency and providing the option to change its thermal power allow for forced coolant circulation.

At what speed should the pump work in the heating system

The goal of forced circulation is to heat the house efficiently by ensuring that all system users, even the radiators furthest away, receive consistent heat delivery. In order to accomplish this, the pump unit needs to generate the required pressure, or in other words, the pressure. Ideally, engineers and designers will compute this pressure based on the hydraulic resistance of the pipeline network.

The majority of home pumps have rotor rotation speeds ranging from three to seven, which allows for adjustment of both generated pressure and performance. To spare you the agony of hydraulic computations, we provide the following technique for choosing the ideal speed:

  1. Find a laser surface thermometer (pyrometer). Bring the heating system to the operating mode.
  2. Measure the temperature of the pipe surface at the entrance to the boiler and at the exit.
  3. If the temperature difference is more than 20 ° C, increase the speed of rotation of the rotor. After 30 minutes, repeat the measurement.
  4. With a temperature difference of less than 10 ° C, the speed of water should be reduced. The task is to achieve the delta between the presentation and the return of about 15 ° C.

There are at least three rotational speeds; there are at least seven.

Advice: Do not operate the pump "on the go" by changing the circulation speed. After disconnecting it from the network and moving the regulator to a new location, restart it.

When thermometers are mounted on the feeding and feedback, you don’t need a pyrometer. Your system operates inefficiently if the adjustment limits prevent you from entering the temperature difference range of 10–20 °C. This is usually the result of a poorly chosen circulation pump. An excessive amount of cold water in the return increases the boiler’s workload and fuel consumption. When water flows too quickly, it cannot have time to properly transfer heat to heating appliances because it is too hot.

As a point of reference. The newest generation of circulation units, the Alpfa3, are available from the top European brand Grundfos (Groundfos). These units can independently select performance based on the load and thus adapt work under changing conditions. As our expert will explain in the following video, you can even balance the heating system with their assistance:

Where to put

Installing a circulation pump on the supply or reverse pipeline is advised, regardless of whether it is placed before the first branch or after the boiler. The materials used to make modern units can typically withstand temperatures between 100 and 115 °C. A more "comfortable" temperature is unachievable because few heating systems operate with a hotter coolant; however, if it makes you feel more at ease, make the return.

It can be positioned before the first branch or in front of the boiler, either in the direct or reverse pipeline.

There is a pump in the supply or reverse branch, and the hydraulics of the boiler and the remainder of the system are identical. What counts are the proper strapping installation and the rotor’s proper orientation in relation to space.

At the installation site there is one important point. If there are two separate branches in the heating system – on the right and left wing of the house or on the first and second floor – it makes sense to put a separate unit on each, and not one general – immediately after the boiler. Moreover, the same rule remains on these branches: immediately after the boiler, to the first branching of this heating circuit. This will make it possible to set the required thermal regime in each of the parts of the house, regardless of the other and also save on heating in two -story houses. How? Due to the fact that the second floor is usually much warmer than on the first and there is much less heat. In the presence of two pumps in the branch that goes up, the speed of the coolant is set much less, and this allows you to burn less fuel, and without prejudice to the comfort of living.

Heating systems come in two varieties: those with forced circulation and those without. Pumps are necessary for forced circulation systems to function; in natural circulation systems, they do function, but heat transfer is reduced. However, since the system is built as a hydraulic (with natural circulation) in places where electricity is frequently turned off, less heat is still preferable to none at all. The pump is then removed from the system. This results in heating that is highly dependable and efficient. It is evident that these systems differ in how a circulation pump is installed.

All forced-warm floor heating systems will not allow the coolant to flow through such big circuits without a pump.

Forced circulation

Installed straight into the supplier or reverse pipe gap (you choose), the forced circulation heating system without a pump is inactive.

Sand and other abrasive particles in the coolant are examples of mechanical impurities that cause the majority of circulation pump issues. They are capable of stopping the motor by jamming the impeller. Consequently, a mesh filter-gryazevik must be placed in front of the device.

Installing a circulation pump in a forced circulation system

Ball valve installation is also advised on two sides. They will enable the device to be fixed or replaced without requiring the system’s coolant to be drained. Lift the unit out by overlapping the taps. The water that was directly in this section of the system only partially merges.

Natural circulation

There is one key distinction in strapping the circulation pump in gravitational systems: a bypass is required. This jumper helps the system function well even when the pump isn’t working. One cutting crane ball, which is permanently closed while the pumping operates, is positioned on the bypass. The system operates in forced mode in this mode.

The circulation pump installation diagram for the naturally circulating system

The system functions like gravity when the electricity goes out or the unit malfunctions, opening the jumper tap and blocking the tap that leads to the pump.

Features of installation

One crucial element needs to be present for the installation of the circulation pump to proceed normally: the rotor needs to be unfolded to point horizontally. The flow’s direction is the second point. The case has an arrow pointing in the direction that the coolant should flow. Thus, unfold the unit such that the coolant is moving "on the arrow."

The pump itself can be installed vertically or horizontally, depending on the model chosen. It is not compatible with either orientation. And one more thing: power (created pressure) decreases by roughly 30% in a vertical location. When selecting a model, this has to be considered.

What is good pumping heating systems

Thirty years ago, the practice of "steam heating" was common in private homes. A wood stove or gas boiler provided the heat, and coolant was used, moving through batteries and pipelines under gravity. Only centralized heat supply networks used water pumping pumps. As more compact units became available, they moved into the development of private housing because they offered the following benefits:

  1. The speed of the coolant increased. The heat generated by the boiler began to be delivered faster to the radiators and transferred to the premises.
  2. Accordingly, the process of heating the house has significantly accelerated.
  3. The higher the speed of the duct, the greater the throughput of the pipe. So, the same amount of heat can be delivered to the rooms in highways of smaller diameter. Simply put, pipelines have become half as much thanks to the forced circulation of water from the pump, which is cheaper and more practical.
  4. The highways can now be laid with a minimum bias and make arbitrarily complex and extended water heating schemes. The main thing is the correct selection of a pump unit in power and created pressure.
  5. Household circulation pump for heating made it possible to organize warm floors and more effective closed systems operating under pressure.
  6. It was possible to remove from the eyes the ubiquitous pipes passing through the rooms and not always harmonious with the interior. Increasingly, heating communications are laid in the walls, under the flooring and behind the suspended (stretch) ceilings.

Note: In the event of maintenance or repair, the network must be emptied with a minimum slope of 2-3 mm per 1 m of pipeline. P. was made to be at least 5 mm/1 m. in the past.

There are drawbacks to the pumping systems as well. This is the result of a pumping unit’s reliance on electricity during the heating season. As a result, the circulation pump needs to be installed in conjunction with a continuous power source or linked to an electric generator in order to handle frequent power outages. The device’s second drawback is not very serious if you select the appropriate power level, in which case the electricity usage will be reasonable.

As a point of reference. Prominent producers of heating systems, like Wilo (Vilo) and Grundfos (Groundfos), have created new models of units with energy-saving capabilities. For instance, the Alpfa2 circulation pump from the Grundfos brand will automatically adjust its performance based on the heating system’s requirements when you purchase and install it. Indeed, the starting price is 120 at. e.

Grundfos’s new generation products, the Alpfa2 and Alpfa2l models

Determination of technical parameters

How should a private home’s pump be selected? You should choose its technical attributes first. Therefore, experts use a variety of formulas to determine how to calculate the pump for heating a private home. The average norms are appropriate if the unit is chosen for a cottage or an apartment.

Since choose a pump to heat a private residence? It is critical to consider the following:

1. It is acknowledged that the unit’s performance is equivalent to the home heating boiler’s power. Stated differently, if a 35 kW boiler is installed for the heating system, then the pump needs to be chosen with a minimum performance of 35 l/min.

2. You will need to figure out the required pressure (or lifting height) at the next step of selecting the unit. How are the circulation pumps chosen in this instance to heat private homes? It is estimated that 0.6 m of pressure is required for every 10 m of pipeline. In other words, the rise’s height is calculated by dividing the system’s total length by 10 and multiplying the resulting number by 0.6. As a result, the heating pump in a private home is chosen. The device’s instructions must include the pressure value in addition to the calculation.

3. By adjusting the water movement speed in accordance with the heating system, comfortable conditions can be created throughout the house. Ultimately, it is only in this scenario that the owners will be able to modify the temperature in accordance with the current meteorological conditions. In this instance, the liquid will transfer heat at a faster rate. This means that pumps with variable speed capabilities are ideal for heating individual homes. It is important to keep in mind, though, that this parameter shouldn’t be greater than 1.6 m/s. This value represents the scheme’s silent work threshold.

4. The diameter of the pipes is used to determine the pump’s power when heating a private residence. More hydraulic resistance results from their smaller cross section. Put another way, systems installed on small-diameter pipes will need a stronger pump installed.

Ways to connect an additional device how to put it

Extra pumps are frequently added to the water supply or heating system. Such modernization is being done for a number of reasons.

For instance, when installing a heated towel rail, warming the floor, or connecting an extra circuit, or when the pressure is insufficient to allow the washing machine to function normally.

Installing a second device follows the same guidelines and procedures as the first. Just one more highway is recognized as a distinct system.

Such modernization is occasionally planned to fortify the system during periods of severe cold. The drive in this instance is linked to the thermal relay-plate. As a result, more circulation is initiated and the coolant’s current is increased when the coolant’s temperature falls in the designated area.

Citation! Pumps in the water supply system are set for roughly the same purposes. However, in this particular instance, a timed system is preferred because strengthening will only be necessary in the morning and evening, when analysis is at its highest. The standard system is sufficient the remainder of the time.

The electrical component is easily connected. Zero, phase, and grounding are in accordance with the contact group’s marking.

Recommendations on the procedure for installing the pump

It is appropriate to do this work during the so-called "off-season." However, the boiler must "drown out" and wait for the coolant temperature to drop if the installation must be done during the heating season. These are basic facts that don’t require further explanation.

  • If necessary, it is better to assemble it separately by installing the bypass, installing all the reinforcement elements and the circulation pump. It remains only to make a insert into the pipe.
  • The next stage is air secretion with the simultaneous control of the system in order to detect leaks.

You can then safely flip the circuit to operate the pump after that.

Useful tips

"Wet" and "dry" circulation pumps are separated into two categories based on the rotor’s specifications. What makes the difference? It is sufficient to list the advantages and disadvantages of each modification without delving into specific technical solutions.

Utilizing a "dry" rotor. increased effectiveness. However, there are drawbacks, such as increased "noise," the requirement for routine maintenance (mainly lubricating seals), and unique operating condition requirements. These circulation pumps must be installed in isolated, totally hygienic spaces. The explanation is straightforward: even the smallest amount of dust causes them to become less effective or to break down.

The product is the only one that guarantees water circulation through the heating system pipes, so if the boiler lacks an analog, it is advised to purchase the "dry" pump.

"Wet" rotor operation. These pumps are typically mounted more frequently. The truth is that all contemporary home heating boilers come pre-installed with this kind of device, which is found beneath the aggregate casing. The newly installed one is merely an extra component that improves coolant circulation. For instance, when installing radiators that are not covered by the primary scheme, if the heat generator model is chosen incorrectly, lengthening the heating circuit.

This pump’s low efficiency is a drawback. However, since it is not the only one in the system, this disadvantage is mitigated because it has little effect on heating efficiency. An added benefit is that there is no need for technical maintenance. As long as the installation guidelines are followed, these pumps will continue to run continuously until the resource is completely produced.

It is recommended that you select a product with a "wet" rotor if your home boiler already has a "own" pump.

Connection to power supply

Pumps that circulate from the 220 in. network. Standard connection; an independent power line with an automatic defense is preferred. Three wires are needed for the connection: phase, zero, and grounding.

An electrical schematic of the circulation pump’s connections

Three-pin sockets and forks can be used to organize the connection to the network itself. If the pump is connected to a supply wire, then this connection method is utilized. Alternatively, you can connect straight to the terminals with a cable or through a terminal block.

Terminals are hidden beneath a plastic cover. After removing it and undoing a few bolts, we discover three connectors. It is challenging to make a mistake because they are typically signed (icon n: zero wire, l: phase, and the "earth" has an international designation).

Where to plug in a power cord

It makes sense to set aside power by installing a stabilizer with linked batteries because the operation of the circulation pump is essential to the operation of the entire system. Everything will function for several days with such a power supply system since the boiler’s automation and the pump itself "pull" electricity up to a maximum of 250–300 W. However, you must make all the necessary calculations and select the battery capacity when organizing it. One drawback of this kind of system is that it requires constant monitoring to prevent battery discharge.

How to use a stabilizer to connect a circulation system to electricity

Hello. My situation, the pump 25 x 60 costs immediately after an electric boiler by 6 kW, then the highway from the pipe 40 mm goes to the bathhouse (there are three steel radiators) and returns to the boiler; After the pump, the branch upwards, then 4 m, down, ringing the house 50 kV. m. through the kitchen, then through the bedroom, where it doubles, then the hall, where it triples and flows into the boiler return; In the bath a branch is 40 mm up, leaves the bathhouse, enters the 2nd floor of the house 40 kV. m. (there are two cast -iron radiators) and returns to the bathhouse to the return; It did not go to the second floor; the idea to install a second pump in the bath for filing after a branch; The total length of the pipeline 125 m. How correct the solution is?

It is indeed a long route for one pump, as the idea suggests.

Circular pump selection criteria

After considering the aforementioned features, the customer should consider the following when selecting the equipment he needs:

Performance

This indicator, which is derived from the system workload at its lowest level, is directly correlated with multiple parameters that can be merged into a single calculated formula: output is equal to Q. (1.16 x DT).

Expressed in kg/h.

An explanation is required for each indicator:

  • Q – heat consumed by the room. It is taken into account in watts (W). For each type of premises by SNIPs, its own norms of such consumption have been determined. The indicator depends on the region of the building and type of building. For example, in Europe for heating 1 m² of private house, 100 watts were allocated, and an apartment 70 watts. For the countries of the former CIS, there are norms established in 1986, which make up:- 173 – 177 W. m. in buildings up to three floors;- 97 – 101 watts per square. m. In buildings with more than 3 floors.
  • 1.16 – Water heat capacity. For other liquids, this number is different.
  • DT – the difference in the temperature values of the reverse and the supply branch of the pipeline.

Selecting a pump based on power:

This feature demonstrates the device’s ability to overcome resistance:

  • pipeline;
  • locking system;
  • fittings;
  • devices;
  • Height drops.

The indicator is calculated using the following formula:

(r x l + z)/p x g is the pressure.

It contains the following information: Z is the resistance of the fittings, indicated in P; I is the system’s total length, displayed in meters; and R is the resistance of a straight pipe, measured in pa/m. G is the acceleration of free fall, expressed in m/sq. P is the coolant density, expressed in kg.us. cube. Alongside.

The last number representing the pump’s pressure is calculated in meters. Since it is not possible to precisely eliminate the heating systems installed in individual buildings for the given values, the average values are used in the following calculation: Z = 30% of the value R; R = 100–150 per meter. Because of its existence in the system, the final indicator may rise:

  • a heat regulatory valve, which will increase the number by 70%;
  • a three -way mixer that gives an increase to 20%.

It is advised to use the following formula to calculate pressure, where the pressure is equal:

R x L x ZF The coefficient of the contour reserve, which is on an extra device, is determined by the final two characters (ZF).

  • The base coefficient of the contour is 1.3.
  • If there is a heat regulatory valve, then the value of ZF is 2.2.
  • When adding a three -way mixer, the indicator 2.6 is taken.

The calculations are made much simpler by this indicator.

How-to video: Calculating the necessary volumetric feed and pressure

How to choose the right water pump for heating

As a result, while selecting a circular pump, consider the following technical aspects:

  • power;
  • maximum temperature level;
  • internal pressure responsible for the pressure. For one -story houses, this criterion is not so important, but when heating multi -storey objects, close attention should be paid to this parameter. It is directly dependent on the diameter of the pipes in the system and about this indicator is reported by a special marking 30, 40, 80 and so on, indicating the height of the coolant lift in decimeters, respectively by 3, 4 or 8 m;
  • The productivity of the device, which is the volume of the coolant pumped per unit of time and depending on the power of the boiler, the flow of the pump and the temperature of the water in the supply pipe and in the opposite;
  • the volume of electricity consumption, as well as the possibility of regulating this parameter using a switch. The case, as a rule, indicates the greatest consumption, although many “household” models do not have adjustment and have averaged indicators.

However, before making a final decision, experts advise concentrating on peak indicators. Because the device operates for a very short period of time in this mode, it is preferable to consider average values, which will block out noise caused by the coolant moving through the pipes.

Additionally, this strategy will save money both during operation and during the purchase phase.

– This page contains more helpful information.

Calculation of the required pressure and volumetric feed, video:

Features of forced circulation

A tiny amount of internal pressure is produced by the system’s installed circulation pump. In this instance, the coolant flows slowly, dispersing heat over each radiator in an even manner.

Is it really the case that thermal energy cannot be distributed evenly by the coolant’s natural circulation?

Perhaps, but it is getting harder and harder to overcome the pipe circuit configurations as a result of the growing size of the suburban private homes that are being built, which in turn makes pipe trunk trimming schemes more challenging. And you simply cannot live in one of these homes without a circulation pump.

Advantages

The coolant travels more quickly around the whole heating system’s curve under the pump’s influence, returning to the heating boiler. Its temperature in this scenario won’t be low. Heating a coolant that isn’t extremely cold will therefore be simpler. reduced expense of fuel usage.

Its large volume is required for the coolant to circulate naturally and maintain the required temperature inside its mass. Accordingly, large-diameter pipes, radiators with large cavities, and shut-off valves that match the pipes are required for the regular operation of the heating system in a private home.

There’s no need to hold a lot of coolant in the system where the pump is installed. Smaller diameter pipes and shut-off valves can therefore be used without risk. Additionally, materials are being saved and all product prices are falling.

Flaws

Energy dependence is the only possible deficiency in such heating, in theory. Devices using electric current function. It is small, to start, but expensive. Second, the pump unit ceases to function when the current is cut off.

Given this circumstance, the masters naturally install a bypass through which the principle of natural hot water circulation is used to start the heating system. And this is both a reduction in work efficiency and a decrease in efficiency.

5 We mount the pump unit sequence and important points

We carefully review the instructions that come with each installation to ensure that it is done correctly. We remove all of the liquid from the system and cut off the section of pipe where the heating pump installation is meant to occur. Cleaning the outdated system where rust and dirt have accumulated is often necessary. We use the cut location because the small cross-section of the hole prevents us from doing this with the drain crane. We attach the hose to one end and use it to deliver pressurized water. Conversely, water flows, washing until it’s clean.

We install the bypass at the pump’s pump (bypass site). It is required in the event that the pump malfunctions or the electricity is turned off. After that, the coolant will pass through the main thoroughfare, where we manually open the tap. It is preferable to use an automatic ball crane that reacts to changes in system pressure rather than a traditional ball crane. Two ball valves are installed on either side of the bypass pump to either remove or block water during maintenance. We install the air release valve atop the bypass line.

Mount the pump after the bypass has been installed. The more precisely we set the pump shaft’s horizontal alignment, the better. A deviation from horizontal positioning will result in only a portion of the rotor immersed in the liquid, causing a power loss and potential failure. At the top is a terminal box. With the connecting nodes, the pump housing is firmly fixed along its axis. We apply sealant to the joints, which will stop fluid flow, stop air leaks, and boost the device’s productivity. Stellars on the pump casing guide us in the direction of the fluid flow when we connect the pump.

The heating system, which is only intended for forced circulation, cannot function when the electricity is off. It is advised to install additional power sources in such circumstances.

We eliminate the possibility that moisture will enter the terminal box by connecting electricity to the equipment. Heat-resistant wiring is used to connect units that are situated on feeding lines because they heat up significantly in these situations. The cable must remain away from the pump body and pipes. Rearranging the plugs will be done from any side, save the lower one. We start the cable from below if the terminal box is on the side. The gadget will undoubtedly ground.

Once the installation is finished, add coolant to the system. By inspecting the case’s central screw, we drain the air from the pump. Water will start to appear when all of the air has been removed from the circulation pump. Then turn on the device. Most pumps have a handle to adjust the power on the body of the device. We examine the work across all modes. There are models that come with an electronic regulator installed.

How to start the pump

After an extended period of inactivity, the circulation pump must have the air removed from its working cavity before it can be restarted.

The boiler is turned on once the equipment has been installed and the heating system has been filled with water. The plug on the front cover of the pump’s case needs to be unscrewed in order to empty the working cavity of the device. The fluid flow without bubbles is proof of the unit’s complete "fraud." Furthermore, air traffic jams must be eliminated from every part of the system. The supply voltage cannot be supplied until after that.

This is an option if the pump is unable to start on its own after a prolonged period of inactivity. In this instance, the protective cork is removed, and the unit’s rotor shaft rotates using a screw that has a flat sting. To accommodate this, a unique slot is machined into the part’s end surface. The procedure for eliminating air is repeated once the pump has operated for five minutes.

Remember that the "Deloversion" process is always executed following an extended period of equipment outage.

By installing equipment with an automatic protection system and control over its operation, you can prevent the negative effects of air plugs.

2 where and how to connect the pump

The following algorithm determines how the heating circuit should be installed correctly. Only when the shaft is in its horizontal position should the circulation pump be connected to the pipes. Although the pressure equipment can be connected to an underwater or reverse pipe, the return pipe has some benefits that we will discuss briefly below.

Setting up the circulation pump for operation

To rid the coolant of mud contaminants, a filter needs to be placed in front of the apparatus. It is best to orient the suspension collection downward. The direction of the arrow apparatus applied to the case, which indicates the direction of the water current, must precisely match the direction of the filter.

2.1 how to install a pump so that it works when turning off the electricity?

Without opening the main contour, cut the device exactly parallel to it. Ensure that the contour in the pipeline has a diameter no less than the Du-32 in order for gravity to function normally and allow for the natural circulation of coolant.

Install valves before and after the pressure apparatus to block the main boiler circuit and prevent water overflow between the inserts. Keep in mind that you will need to manually switch from the pressure apparatus to the bypass in the event of a prolonged power outage. Using two ball-cutting taps or valves, the bypass is simultaneously disconnected from the main pipeline.

There must be a valve in the upper bypass section to pump air. The pressure apparatus’s terminals and control units are only set up in the "Up" position. Sealant should be applied to the compounds created on the thread.

Configuration of a heating system in a private residence

2.2 How to correctly install the pump in the heating system? (video)

2.3 Additional pressure apparatus

Generally speaking, homes with older boilers or larger rooms as a result of newly constructed additions that were not part of the previous heating plan are equipped with more pressure devices. To prevent air from entering the heating circuit, additional installations that heat the floors in accordance with a different scheme work effectively.

If you intend to install an additional pump, don’t overlook the small details that are necessary. To get rid of the debris that has accumulated in the pipes over the years of operation, pre-salt the heat carrier and give them a thorough rinse.

Types of pumps

Drier and wet pumps are used to move energy in a productive manner.

Dry

The rotor’s contact with the coolant is absent from the first type of equipment. The pump in this device hermetically seals the sealant coming from the motor. This equipment has an efficiency of 80%, so it is recommended to use it when continuously pumping a large volume of liquid.

The use of dry pumps in factories, shopping malls, and other establishments. These kinds of structures are not utilized in private homes since they produce a lot of noise.

Wet

The coolant that the wet pumps are pumping contains the rotor of the pump. The engine is cooled by water. To approach electricity, the design incorporates a stator. A "wet" rotor pump’s many benefits include a long service life, minimal maintenance requirements, minimal noise generation, compact size, and easy block replacement.

Cons: Poor efficiency (between 30 and 50 percent), restricted application (private homes and city apartments), incapacity to use pumps for anything pertaining to food products, including drinking water.

Starting system

The apparatus is always turned on following the removal of her air and the addition of water to the system.

Open all shut-off valves and add water to the system to accomplish this. Lower the air after a short while. additionally incorporate a power source.

In case it’s the first time Start the apparatus for a short while. Additionally, the air in the system is rechecked after disconnecting it. The equipment is switched to the standard mode if everything is good.

It should be noted that following an extended period of inactivity, the process will be accurately repeated prior to each launch, i.e., at the start of each heating season.

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Criteria for competent choice of equipment

If the equipment is not chosen correctly, then all installation work will be negated. To ensure accuracy, it is imperative to conduct a thorough analysis of every facet of the particular heating system and perform all required computations.

The main varieties of pumps

Each device falls into one of two categories based on its structural features: wet or dry rotors. The "wet" type is a good option for private homes. It is nearly silent, small, and easily maintained and repaired thanks to its modular design.

Regrettably, though, there is little difference in terms of high performance: the current models’ maximum efficiency is between 52 and 54%.

Heating network circulation devices are not to be confused with dowry circulation devices. The heating pump is less expensive and does not require a bronze or stainless steel anti-corrosion case or additional scale protection.

Dry rotor units are efficient, don’t care too much about the coolant’s quality, can operate at high pressure, and don’t need to be positioned exactly horizontally in the pipe. But they make more noise, and there’s vibration while they work. A lot of models are fixed to the metal support frame or foundation.

A separate room called the boiler room is required in order to install console, monoblock, or "in-line" models. When servicing a group of cottages or apartment buildings, or when a consumption of more than 100 m³/h is necessary, it is best to use them.

Brief overview of technical characteristics

It is important to research a pump’s technical specifications and weigh them against the needs of the heating system.

Indicators like these are significant.

  • pressure, which covers the losses of hydraulics in the circuit;
  • performance – the volume of water or the supply for a certain temporary interval;
  • The operating temperature of the coolant, Max and Min – in modern models on average +2 ºС … +110 ºС;
  • power – taking into account hydraulic losses, mechanical power prevails over useful.

Additionally crucial are structural components, such as the pipe diameters used for input and output. The typical parameters for heating systems are 25 mm and 32 mm.

Taking the length of the heating line into consideration, the number of electric pumps is chosen. One device is sufficient if the contours are up to 80 meters long; if not, more devices will be needed.

An example of an aggregate that can be used to outfit a 100 m² housing is a Grundfos UPS pump that has a 32 mm pipe connection, can pump 62 l/s, and weighs 3.65 kg. Beneath a thin partition is a compact, low-winged cast iron device that is silent and powerful enough to move fluid to the second floor.

When temperature or pressure on the network changes, pumps with integrated electronics enable you to quickly switch the equipment into a more practical mode. Digital displays, which offer the most information possible about the functioning of the pump—temperature, resistance, pressure, etc.—are a feature of automatic devices.

Requirements for the installation of a circulation pump

The installation of the circulation pump in the heating system is governed by several legislative regulations. An outline of the regulations can be found in SNiP 2.04.05 "Heating…" It speaks, for instance, of forced circulation’s precedence in heating networks.

The effectiveness of the system as a whole and the circulation device in particular substantiate almost all requirements. For instance, in order to prevent air plugs and premature wear and tear on the pump’s components, the shaft of a device with a wet rotor needs to be installed on a pipe that is strictly horizontal and level.

An expansion tank is a necessary component of the system that adjusts for variations in coolant volume during heating and cooling. It is located on the return in front of the circulation pump in the closed type system.

It is always necessary to have a filter to remove dirt and abrasive particles, even when installing monolithic models. Compared to the liquid containing sand and weight, the filtered coolant will cause significantly less damage to the pump’s internal components.

To lessen resistance and make system maintenance easier, the mud is installed downward in the direction that the water moves.

Manufacturers must follow certain regulations. For instance, because they couldn’t tolerate high temperatures, certain brands’ outdated models were only used in return.

The pumps can now be installed anywhere that meets the power requirements and have a more universal character.

Device

A circulation pump: what is it? This technological apparatus continuously circulates water through pipes while operating in a ring heating system. Its primary goal is to guarantee a steady flow of water and a supply of heat.

If we look at the unit’s simplified device, the interaction between the motor and the rotor—which is submerged in coolant—leads to the conclusion of the principle of operation.

Fluid is continuously supplied through the pipes by the running engine. Here, kinetic energy is converted to potential energy by the rotor. By doing this, you can increase the system’s pressure to the necessary level.

The purpose of the pump for heating

Prior to recently, circulating type pumps were exclusively utilized in centralized heating systems. In the construction of private homes, the coolant would naturally move due to temperature differences.

Thanks to the development of small, low-cost models intended for small-scale residential heating networks, forced circulation is now widely used.

The quantity of circuit solutions increased with the introduction of circulation pumps. Highways of varying degrees of difficulty could be planned, and the reliance on the slope has all but vanished.

The premises heat up more quickly as a result of the coolant in the pipeline moving more quickly and transferring thermal energy to the radiators more quickly. Due to the fact that water was heating up more quickly, the boiler’s load decreased.

It was no longer necessary to install big, uncomfortable pipelines; instead, the contours could be deeper into the walls or concealed beneath the flooring.

The "warm floor" system could be installed on any floor of a private residence; however, it only functions by applying a specific amount of pressure to the network.

The primary disadvantage of heating system pumps is their reliance on electricity. Installing a backup electric generator or at least a continuous fence is required if there is a chance of a period of intermittent power supply or a total power outage.

The remaining drawbacks are related to the layout and operation of various device kinds. For instance, pumps with wet rotors have pressure restrictions and are more demanding on coolant quality than monoblock units and devices with dry rotors, which are noisier and require ongoing maintenance.

Manufacturers and prices

The method for selecting circulation pump manufacturers is the same as it is for choosing any other technological arc. It is preferable to use European manufacturers’ equipment, which has been gaining popularity for a while. The Grundfos (Golo), Dab (Dub), and Willo circulation pumps (Villo) are the most dependable in this industry. There are other reputable brands, but you must read consumer reviews.

Name Performance Pressure The number of speeds Connecting dimensions Maximum working pressure Power Corps material Price
Grundfos UPS 25-80 130 l/min 8 m 3 G 1 1/2 ″ 10 bar 170 watts Cast iron 15476 rub
Caliber NC-15/6 40 l/min 6 m 3 External thread G1 6 atm 90 watts Cast iron 2350 rub
Belamos BRS25/4G 48 l/min 4.5 m 3 External thread G1 10 atm 72 watts Cast iron 2809 rub
Jiglex Circul 25/80 280 133.3 l/min 8.5 m 3 External thread G1 6 atm 220 watts Cast iron 6300 rub
Elitech NP 1216/9E 23 l/min 9 m 1 External thread G 3/4 10 atm 105 watts Cast iron 4800 rub
Marina-Speroni SCR 25/40-180 S 50 l/min 4 m 1 External thread G1 10 atm 60 watts Cast iron 5223 rub
Grundfos UPA 15-90 25 l/min 8 m 1 External thread G 3/4 6 atm 120 watts Cast iron 6950 rub
Wilo Star -r 15/2-130 41.6 l/min 2.6 m 3 Inner thread G1 45 watts Cast iron 5386 rub

Please be aware that the technical specifications are all meant to move water. If the system’s coolant isn’t freezing liquid, adjustments must be made.

The manufacturer of this kind of coolant must be contacted by the data for this particular heat carrier. Such attributes were absent from other sources.

The efficiency and performance of your heating system can be greatly enhanced by installing a circulation pump. You can minimize expenses and energy consumption while optimizing the efficiency of your heating system by making sure it is installed correctly.

First and foremost, choosing the appropriate pump for your heating system is essential. Think about things like the desired flow rate, the type of heating system you have, and the size of your home. A pump that is too big could result in wasteful energy use and higher costs, while a pump that is too small might cause inadequate heating.

After selecting the right pump, installation needs to be done precisely and with care. Find the best location for the pump in your heating system first. To guarantee ideal circulation, this usually entails positioning it close to the boiler or the system’s hottest point.

Next, confirm that the pump is installed correctly in accordance with the guidelines provided by the manufacturer. This entails attaching the inlet and outlet pipes correctly and making sure the pump is mounted firmly to reduce noise and vibrations. To guarantee smooth operation, it’s also crucial to wire the pump to your heating system correctly.

To guarantee continued effectiveness and performance after installation, it’s critical to perform routine maintenance on your circulation pump. This entails keeping an eye out for any wear and tear indicators, like leaks or odd noises, and taking quick action when necessary. Furthermore, to avoid accumulation and increase the pump’s longevity, clean the pump and all of its parts on a regular basis.

To sum up, adding a circulation pump to your heating system is an investment that will pay off handsomely in terms of performance, efficiency, and cost savings. You may maximize the performance of your heating system and take pleasure in a more comfortable home environment by choosing the appropriate pump, making sure the installation is done correctly, and performing routine maintenance.

Installing a circulation pump in your heating system is essential to ensuring effective heating in your home. In order to ensure that the heat is distributed evenly throughout your home, a circulation pump aids in the movement of hot water through your system. To get the most out of a circulation pump installation, make sure the pump is installed in the proper location and is the appropriate size for your system. Furthermore, adequate pipe insulation can lower heat loss and raise the overall effectiveness of your heating system. You can save money on energy bills and have a warm, cozy house by following these instructions and making sure your circulation pump is installed properly.

Video on the topic

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Proper installation of the pump in the heating system

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