How to connect bimetallic radiators between each other

Maintaining comfort and reducing energy costs in your home requires effective insulation and heating systems. Bimetallic radiators, which effectively distribute heat throughout the house, are essential to this process. Comprehending the process of connecting these radiators is essential to maximizing their efficiency and guaranteeing even heating throughout each space.

There are a few important steps to connect bimetallic radiators correctly. First, you must assemble the equipment and supplies you’ll need, such as valves, pipe fittings, and any other parts you’ll need for your particular configuration. To prevent any delays or issues, make sure you have everything you need before starting the installation process.

Next, carefully consider how your heating system will be laid out, keeping in mind aspects like the size and placement of each radiator as well as the general style of your house. With careful planning, you can connect the radiators in the most effective way possible to ensure even heat distribution and low energy waste.

The installation procedure can start as soon as you have a well-defined plan in place. Using the proper pipes and fittings, begin by connecting the radiators to the primary heating source—a heat pump or boiler, if applicable. To guarantee a safe and dependable installation, make sure you adhere to local building codes and manufacturer guidelines.

It’s crucial to correctly balance the system after connecting the radiators to the main heating source to guarantee uniform heat distribution throughout the house. This can entail utilizing balancing valves or other control mechanisms to modify the water flow to each radiator. A well-balanced system will guarantee sufficient warmth in certain places and help avoid overheating in others.

In conclusion, a vital component of designing a successful and efficient heating system for your house is connecting bimetallic radiators among themselves. You can make sure that your house remains warm and cozy during the winter months while reducing energy usage and expenses by following the above-mentioned steps and being meticulous during the installation process.

Step	Description
1	Prepare the area: Clear the space around the radiators, ensuring easy access.
2	Identify connections: Locate the inlet and outlet valves on each radiator.
3	Shut off the system: Turn off the heating system to avoid any accidents.
4	Drain the system: Release any water from the radiators by opening the bleed valves.
5	Measure and cut pipes: Use a pipe cutter to trim the pipes to the required length.
6	Install fittings: Attach the necessary fittings, such as couplings or elbows, to the ends of the pipes.
7	Connect the radiators: Join the pipes to the inlet and outlet valves of each radiator, ensuring a secure fit.
8	Check for leaks: Turn on the heating system and inspect the connections for any signs of leakage.
9	Test the system: Allow the radiators to heat up fully and ensure that each one is working correctly.

How to increase the heating battery: bimetallic sections, their size and quantity

If the room remains cool after installing new bimetal heating batteries, then the capacity calculations were done incorrectly. This typically occurs when calculations were made based solely on the room’s area, not accounting for all of the heat loss within. To create a truly comfortable living space, the precise number of sections of bimetallic radiator needed must be determined.

If there were any computation errors, you can add a section or several to the already-installed structure to fix them.

Design of bimetallic batteries

There are numerous varieties of bimetal radiators available on the thermal technologies market today. which are all distinguished by their excellent quality and dependability.

• Sectional models are very popular, since their technical parameters are ideal for multi-storey houses with a centralized heating system. Knowing how to connect the sections of a bimetallic radiator, you can assemble a design of any length. This allows you to create a different microclimate in each room.
• Molded models are used either as a design solution for room decoration or in systems with very unstable pressures. These types of radiators are tested at a pressure of 100 atmospheres, which makes them the best candidates where there are spikes of up to 30-40 atmospheres. These models have two significant drawbacks:

1. Very high cost, which you forget about if the house has a "problematic" heating system.
2. They can not be increased or reduced, so it is necessary to very scrupulously calculate their capacity, taking into account all heat losses, the method of connection and the area of the room.

View helpful details regarding bimetallic batteries here:

You must have all of the design components and the necessary tools ready in order to connect the bimetallic radiator sections correctly.

Preparatory work

You should buy the required tools and perform calculations prior to building up the battery. This is particularly crucial if every task is to be completed on your own. Quality work will necessitate:

• pipe wrench;
• radiator wrench;
• special nipples (should come with the battery section);
• plugs with left and right threads;
• gaskets to be installed between the sections;
• emery cloth;
• gaskets made of vaporite.

The prep work can start now that the necessary tools are available.

• First of all, the radiator to which the section will be added is removed. To do this, the coolant supply to the system is closed and the battery is disconnected from the pipe.
• The removed radiator should be thoroughly washed from dust and checked for contamination inside. Although stainless steel is not affected by the acidity of water, the core is "not immune" to the deposition of debris and scale on its walls. They should be removed by washing the radiator with a special agent.
• Check the places of connections for integrity and quality of threads. It happens that at the joints form growths, so it is necessary to treat each hole with threads with sandpaper.

It is still worthwhile to sand the threads with sandpaper in the event that no build-up is found. By doing this, impurities that can hinder the gasket from producing a high-quality seal will be eliminated.

• After the old radiator has been cleaned, it should be placed on a previously prepared flat surface. This is important, because to connect bimetallic radiators between each other should be without distortions, even the most insignificant ones. Little noticeable at first, they can lead to a serious accident in the future.

You can’t begin adding new sections until you’ve finished the preparation.

Radiator assembly

Pay attention to the radiator gaskets’ quality in order to get a good outcome. Usually, paronite versions are utilized because they are strong and long-lasting enough. Additionally, the state of the nipples must be examined, with particular attention paid to the integrity of the sockets and the thread quality. They must be completely and uniformly threaded, and they should not have any chips on them.

You can assemble the item with your hands if you pay close attention to the instructions and follow them in order. This calls for:

• Place the radiator and the prepared sections on a flat surface.
• Slide the sections and place the nipples with gaskets between them.
• Carefully start screwing in the nipple. Since it has left and right threads on one side and right threads on the other side, the sections are simultaneously attracted to each other when screwing in. Knowing this feature of the nipple, even a beginner will understand how to remove the section from the bimetallic radiator. It is enough to twist it in the opposite direction, and the sections will move away from each other. The work is carried out with a special radiator wrench.
• After all nipples are inserted and slightly tacked, they must be screwed tightly, making the same number of turns. This is important so that you do not get misalignments. If 3 turns were made on one nipple, then the same amount of movement is made on all the others.

Only a corresponding test can determine whether or not the bimetallic radiator’s section assembly was completed correctly.

Radiator testing

The best method to assess the radiator assembly’s quality at home is to use a compressed air pressure test. To complete this, you’ll need:

• A piece of pipe Du-15.
• Nipple from a car tire.
• Car pump with pressure gauge.

The tube that goes into the radiator needs to be soldered to the camera’s nipple. To verify whether it is sufficient, use a pump capable of producing one atmosphere of pressure within the radiator. If the device does not emit a whistling sound when air escapes, then all the necessary steps were taken correctly, the gaskets are of high quality, and the nipples are securely screwed down.

A soap solution or some tinted water can be used to test the construction’s tightness. It is sufficient to charge the battery and then watch it for a few hours to see if any water leaks occur.

You can connect the heating system and put the battery back in place only after testing. Verify that the brackets can support the increased weight of the radiator if multiple sections have been added. In this case, it is preferable to be safe and add an additional wall holder than to have the entire structure suddenly collapse onto the ground.

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Sections of the bimetallic radiator are assembled and removed only in the opposite order. Generally speaking, this work is not complicated, so the answer to the question of whether you can add sections to the bimetallic radiator yourself is yes. Even a novice can handle this work if they have all the necessary tools at their disposal.

All you need to keep in mind is that a bimetallic radiator can have no more than 16 sections total. It makes sense to divide the radiator into two sections if there are more of them. For instance, calculations indicate that a single room requires 27 sections; therefore, the radiator should be split into two structures, with 13 and 14 sections, respectively.

Useful video

In this tutorial, we’ll walk you through the easy steps to guarantee effective insulation and heating in your house when connecting bimetallic radiators. You can optimize the distribution of warmth throughout your space and save money and energy by strategically connecting these radiators. The fundamentals of bimetallic radiator systems will be discussed, along with the significance of appropriate sizing and placement and useful advice on how to connect them safely. You’ll be able to improve the comfort and effectiveness of your home heating system quickly with the help of our simple instructions.

Instructions on how to add sections of the heating radiator

House and apartment owners frequently deal with a very serious issue: even with a regular supply of coolant at the proper temperature, the house feels cold and can be uncomfortable to live in. Extending the heating radiator will be required to address this issue. Why is this kind of work being done? The main goal of this process is to add sections to the radiator, which will enable the home to be comfortably heated.

When heating a large space, sections are added to the radiator.

First things first, you will need to find a radiator key, which you absolutely must have. If, for some reason, you are unable to locate it, you will either need to get a new one from the store or borrow one from a friend or neighbor. Thus, you must remove the radiator with the aid of this wrench in order to cut off its connections to the heating system. After that, carry it over to the bathtub and fill it with water.

It will be impossible to add sections without a unique key.

Apartment residents have frequently lamented the lack of a comfortable air temperature in their homes, but the root cause was simple radiator clogging that prevented the unit from operating "in full force." However, if water that has been directed into the radiator flows through its channels clear and unobstructed, and does not appear foggy, the issue is not with the heating device’s blockage. Assuming you approach this task responsibly, the only thing that can help in this case—which, for the most part, lacks complexity and difficulty—is adding sections.

How to add sections?

Once you’ve established through experience that the reason for the house’s low temperature isn’t a clogged radiator, you should locate a heating equipment store close to your house (avoiding the need to travel to the Far East and wasting time). It is essential to purchase the identical sections—cast iron, aluminum, or bimetallic—that are outfitted with your radiator.

It should not occur that you select the incorrect sections; if it does, you will be unable to add them and the money you paid will be wasted. Therefore, exercise caution. For every kind of heating radiator, the process for adding sections is carried out in the same order of steps.

A connecting nut, or nipple, is required to join the sections.

Continue straight ahead and add more sections. First, take a radiator wrench and unscrew the lug on the side where you want to add one or more elements. A nipple, or connecting nut, is applied to the section joining area after the lug has been unscrewed. The following crucial detail must be considered: the threads at the ends of the nipple differ from one another. To ensure proper installation of new sections, follow these guidelines:

• The right side of the nipple should be directed in the direction where the connection to the new element will be made;
• Accordingly, the left one – towards the already present sections of the heating radiator.

It is essential to install inter-section gaskets (which can be made of rubber, paranite, or gel) on the nipple to stop additional battery leakage. They must be installed carefully and gently in order to ensure that the gasket is positioned as evenly as possible and free from undesired distortions. The thread needs to be tightened next. This exercise should also be performed carefully, slowly, and without abrupt movements. Any rush is out of the question if you want to improve the heating radiator’s quality.

The inter-section gasket is required to stop leaks.

Damage to the metal threading is very undesirable as it can lead to even seemingly insignificant issues that require more time and money to resolve.

Reinstalling the larger radiator on its bracket and resuming the connection to the central heating pipe are both necessary. Wadding, which is required to wrap the pipe threads when screwing on the radiator, and a wrench with the proper diameter are required tools for this task.

Adding sections to a radiator is not hard; you don’t need ten years of experience working as a heating installer’s team to accomplish it. However, in the absence of a serious approach, basic tools and the elimination of this process occupying his personal time are insufficient. To address the issue of inadequate room heating, you may, nevertheless, choose the second option, which is to hire the business that offers these services. Their staff will take care of everything on their own, efficiently, and to a high standard.

Connection of heating radiators: assembly of sections, connection options, piping

Is it challenging to take a sectional heater apart and put it back together? How should radiators in a shared heating circuit be connected to one another? How should the supply lines be connected to the radiator, and how should the threaded connections be sealed? Let’s attempt to respond to these queries.

A section of a private home’s two-pipe heating system.

Inter-sectional connections

Device

Let’s investigate the process of connecting heating radiator sections to one another:

• The manifolds of each section are provided with opposing threads on both sides.
• For their connection is a nipple – a short branch pipe with, again, opposing threads on its outer surface. The inner surface of the nipple is equipped with two longitudinal protrusions – hooks for a radiator key.
• Sealing the joint is performed by ring gaskets made of paronite – hard heat-resistant rubber.

Nevertheless, in actual use, it is preferable to use silicone gaskets that can be bought or, in the worst situation scenario, gaskets that you cut out of an old car camera. When tightening, paronite requires a lot of force, and aluminum is not a good fit for them because of their low strength.

It is preferable to replace the gaskets when reassembling the radiator.

Assembly and disassembly

For illustration, let’s examine how to connect the various parts of bimetallic radiators when assembling the battery:

1. Unscrew the blind radiator plugs on the side opposite the supply lines.
2. Having put the added sections to the radiator end face, mark the points of attachment of additional brackets. Recall: their number is selected at the rate of one bracket per three sections; not only the upper, but also the lower collector of the battery need a rigid fixation.
3. Mounting the bracket.
4. Press a couple of nipples with gaskets into the threads of the end section.
5. Mark on the radiator key the distance from its blade corresponding to the total length of the new sections.
6. Attach the added sections to the old radiator and feed the radiator key through their upper manifold. It will have to be continuously rotated to pass the nipples. When the wrench blade reaches the required nipple, turn it clockwise just enough so that the nipple securely engages both threads.
7. Repeat the operation with the lower nipple.
8. Alternately tighten the nipples no more than 1 – 2 turns at a time. The instruction is due to the fact that in case of uneven tightening, the nipples will be wedged or even torn. The criterion of readiness is the edges of the gasket extruded between the sections.
9. Screw in the blind radiator plugs and check the radiator under pressure.

Diagram of the radiator assembly.

The connections between sections are disassembled in the opposite order.

Helpful: heating sections can be accomplished by heating a spot or the entire radiator on fire with a blowtorch if the cast-iron radiator’s nipples refuse to unscrew. Naturally, afterward, the inter-section gaskets will need to be changed.

Every way that heating radiators are connected to outlets assumes the following:

• Connections;
• Optionally – shut-off and regulating fittings.

Pipes and radiators

First, let’s take a brief look at the materials that are used to make heating devices. More specifically, from the operating pressure that their design calls for. These values can generally serve as your guide:

Kgf/cm2 operating pressure

Any heating system’s standard parameters are well within the most permissive limits: during normal operation, the central heating circuit’s working pressure does not exceed 6 kgf/cm2 at temperatures as high as 95 C.

Important words: normally functioning.

The so-called "hydro-impact," in front of which the pressure will reach 20 to 25 kgf/cm2, may occur when the discharged system is filled too quickly or when the screw valve is torn off.

One of the water hammer’s mechanisms.

Hydrostroke is not common in autonomous circuits where the owner must be extremely sane, but in central heating systems with a large number of valves, maintenance staff with varying degrees of training, and routine testing of high-pressure heating lines… I believe there is no more to explain.

For this reason, the following distribution of heater types will be the most reasonable:

• Aluminum and cast iron can be used only in autonomous circuits;
• Steel and bimetallic ones are suitable for the central heating system.

Which kind of pipes are compatible with them?

• The connection of aluminum heating radiators to the boiler and/or outlet is usually made with inexpensive and easy to install polypropylene or metal-polymer pipes.
• Connection of bimetallic radiators – between each other or with the pipes of filling in the central heating system – is better to perform with a steel pipe. Either black steel on welding or galvanized on threads.

The steel piping on the bimetallic radiator is welded.

Useful: Using corrugated stainless steel pipes is an additional excellent solution. They can be bent with a radius equal to the pipe’s diameter and are installed using the most modern tools available.

Shut-off and regulating valves, fittings

As was previously mentioned, shut-off valves frequently cause the connection between pipes and heating radiators to break. Which variety?

On both supply lines, a pair of valves is the most straightforward solution. They make it possible to turn off the heater for repairs or extended thawing. Ball valves are the best option since, in contrast to erratic screw and cork valves, they are incredibly fail-safe and require little maintenance.

The ball valves that cut off the battery are clearly visible in the picture.

Note: When the radiator is disconnected, a jumper in the central heating system is required to allow the heat carrier to pass through the riser before the valves on the riser side.

More sensible options include a single-pipe autonomous circuit with two throttles in a two-pipe system, or a throttle and a ball valve in a central heating system. By connecting heating radiators to pipes via this particular set of fittings, the amount of heat output can be manually adjusted. In a two-pipe system, two throttles are required for independent system balancing and heat output regulation.

Lastly, a thermostatic valve with a thermal head—a device that automatically adjusts the flow based on the room’s air temperature—can be installed in place of a throttle to control the heat output. Unfortunately, the cost of such a set is between 700 and 1500 rubles, which is significantly more than the cost of regular faucets.

Strapping featuring a valve and thermostat.

How do I connect the taps or liners to the radiator? Americas, or quick couplings with cap nuts, are typically used for this purpose these days. They make it possible to disassemble the heater in 30 to 40 seconds, as opposed to the typical bends.

How are the threads sealed? The ideal material for heating radiator threaded connections is polymer thread sealant, such as Tangit Unilok and its equivalents; sanitary tape impregnated with silicone sealant or any fast-drying paint comes in second.

Connection diagrams

One-pipe leningradka is the safest method for connecting heating radiators in a private home to a boiler and outlet. The outlets, which are arranged around the room’s perimeter, are connected to heating appliances in parallel.

Comparatively less expensive to install, but notably more challenging to operate when using a battery series connection scheme. It is sufficient to say that in this instance, their independent adjustment is not feasible.

A one-pipe scheme variant connected serially.

Lastly, each radiator in a two-pipe system is connected as a jumper between the supply and return strings. It is inconvenient because it limits the movement of heating appliances near the boiler and necessitates the balancing that was previously mentioned.

What possible configurations exist for the supply line connection of heating radiators?

• one-way. The supply pipes are connected to the upper and lower radiator plugs on the right or left side. It is compact, but makes the heating of the device uneven: the last sections will always be colder than the first ones.
• From bottom to bottom. In this case, the radiator is necessarily completed with an air vent. The advantage of this solution is that the radiator does not require flushing and always warms up along its entire length.
• Diagonal. The heating of the sections is even more uniform; however, the lower corner of the device with a blind plug will gradually silt up.

Alternatives for attaching to the supply lines.

An essential first step in providing your home with effective insulation and heating is connecting the bimetallic radiators. You can reduce energy waste and maximize heat distribution by connecting these radiators correctly.

In order to provide even heating throughout the house, it is first crucial to make sure that the radiators are positioned at the proper intervals. This entails taking into account elements like room dimensions, insulation thickness, and window and door placement. Arranging things correctly will help the heating system work as efficiently as possible.

The most popular technique for joining bimetallic radiators is to use pipes to connect them in parallel or series. Whereas parallel connections link each radiator to the main supply and return pipes separately, series connections link each radiator to the other in a sequential manner. The desired heating efficiency and the design of the home are two important considerations when deciding between series and parallel connections.

To stop heat loss, it is crucial to make sure the pipes are appropriately sized and insulated, regardless of the connection method selected. Insulating the pipes lowers energy consumption and boosts overall efficiency by assisting in maintaining the temperature of the water as it moves from the boiler to the radiators.

To control the temperature in each room independently, thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs) must be installed in addition to the radiators themselves. With the help of TRVs, homeowners can regulate the amount of heat that each radiator produces, reducing energy waste and assisting in the maintenance of a comfortable indoor temperature.

In conclusion, one of the most important steps in maximizing your home’s insulation and heating is connecting bimetallic radiators to one another. You may design an effective heating system that maximizes comfort while reducing energy consumption and expenses by taking into account elements like radiator placement, connection technique, pipe insulation, and the use of TRVs.

Video on the topic

How easy it is to extend a heating radiator.

Connect sections of aluminum radiators. Make a wrench.