How to choose the right heating pipes in the floor under the screed overview of all types of installation with your own hands

Selecting the ideal heating system for your house is essential for both efficiency and comfort. Underfloor heating is becoming more and more popular among the available options because of its even heat distribution and compact design. The plumbing system positioned underneath the floor screed is a crucial part of underfloor heating. This guide will cover the various kinds of heating pipes that work well with underfloor heating systems and provide an outline of do-it-yourself installation techniques.

There are a number of things to take into account when choosing heating pipes for underfloor heating. PEX (cross-linked polyethylene), PEX-AL-PEX (multilayer composite), and PERT (polyethylene of raised temperature resistance) are the three most often used pipe types. Every variety offers benefits and things to keep in mind, like adaptability, toughness, and suitability for various floor coverings.

Because of their well-known flexibility, PEX pipes are simpler to install in confined areas and around corners. PEX-AL-PEX pipes offer improved durability and temperature resistance by combining the flexibility of PEX with the extra strength of the aluminum layer. PERT pipes, on the other hand, have high temperature resistance to withstand the rigors of heating systems and are specifically made for underfloor heating applications.

Installing new heating pipes is the next step after deciding which kind best meets your needs. Underfloor heating pipes can be installed using one of two primary techniques: wet installation or dry installation. In a wet installation, thermal mass and effective heat distribution are provided by the pipes being embedded in a screed or concrete slab. On the other hand, dry installation offers a quicker and less intrusive installation process by using pre-fabricated panels or insulation boards with grooves for laying the pipes.

There are benefits and drawbacks to both wet and dry installation techniques, which vary based on things like floor type, construction schedule, and individual taste. Wet installation can provide better heat retention and efficiency, but it may take more time and skill to complete. Conversely, dry installation is frequently preferred due to its ease of use and suitability for retrofitting already-existing structures.

In the end, the installation technique and heating pipe selection are determined by your unique needs and circumstances. You can guarantee the best possible comfort and efficiency for your home heating system by making an informed choice by being aware of the various options and their corresponding benefits.

Installation Method	Overview
Wet Installation	Heating pipes are embedded in the concrete slab or screed during construction. This method provides efficient heat transfer but requires professional installation.
Dry Installation	Pipes are laid within grooved insulation panels on top of the existing floor. This method is easier for DIY installation and allows for easier access to pipes for maintenance.

How to lay heating pipes in the floor warm floor technology

Everybody wants to be as comfortable as possible in their daily lives while making sensible use of every resource. This also holds true for homemade comfort, which is directly influenced by the interior physical microclimate. Heat is especially necessary during the cold months—which are, incidentally, more than warm.

Heating pipes installed in the floor screed

What depends on the heat in the apartment

Determine what is the primary source and what maintains the normal temperature first.

Heating

This is an essential component. This is typically a centralized system in apartments. Although they can control the temperature inside their apartments, residents are not in charge of the heating boilers themselves. Heating pipe insulation and sealing are necessary for this. Things are different in private homes and apartments that follow the Townhouse model. There are its heat sources, which are typically independent furnaces or gas or solid fuel boilers.

Diagram for pipe laying in the screed

Sealing

This is a supporting element that is required to maintain heat, not a source. Indeed, even the strongest heat will simply escape through the apartment’s old windows and wide gaps between the doors when it’s warm inside. The same holds true for poorly designed ventilation systems. As a result, you should pay attention to the tightness of any area that leads to the street in order to maintain comfortable temperatures.

Pipes

And the precise moment at which it merits a longer description. Pipes made of materials that readily give heat should be used to ensure efficient heat transmission. In other words, metals will be the best materials.

The insulation of pipes is mentioned in the second paragraph in relation to heat loss from them. Either way, it is preferable to insulate the pipes, whether it is a private home or an apartment. Numerous materials that are precisely mounted and significantly raise the caliber of the system components are available for this.

Plumbing in the screed

Third: appropriate wiring. For some reason, the majority of the heating pipes in the distant 1980s came from above; in certain apartments, they passed entirely through the ceiling and only descended to the radiator. If not for the laws of physics, perhaps this approach would be ideal. Warm air rises upwards and is much lighter than cold air, as everyone knows. From this, it follows that it makes no sense to conduct heat from an additional source (since pipes are involved in addition to the radiator) on top in order to lose valuable temperature.

As a result, floor heating pipe technology is highly common today. The most crucial aspect of this straightforward approach is that heat will be dispersed according to human growth, not in an ethereal manner from the ceiling. Thus, this approach is also cost-effective.

Many techniques can be used to lay pipes. Everything relies on the kind of flooring. In the case of a cement screed, gratings are simply installed with a specific step in some locations, through which additional heat will rise upstairs. Special gutters are made for products, which are then partially poured with solution.

Such wiring will also heat the floor, which is necessary for a comfortable stay in the space.

In cases where a wooden floor is to be installed on specially prepared logs, the heating pipes are installed beneath the crate. But unique windows are still there as well. This is accomplished by measuring the flooring in the material and creating holes according to size.

Plan for installing wooden floors with heating pipes

Patching pipes in the floor also has the benefit of making them appear more aesthetically pleasing due to their fragmentation.

Finally, it is important to remember that floor pipe wiring is typically done during construction or renovation. Additionally, you should speak with experts regarding the building’s technical suitability for this wiring method prior to beginning any work. Additionally, create a rough plan or schedule that accounts for all the subtleties of the floor, including bumps, thresholds, and so on.

• Installation of porcelain border on the floor
• How to put tiles on the floor in a bathhouse with a slope
• Thermal insulation of the floor of the first floor of a private house
• Which is better PVC tile or floor laminate
• Garage
• Plastic thresholds for the floor
• Pour the floor with a self -leveling mixture
• Types of warm floors in the apartment
• Cork floor to the kitchen
• How to drill porcelain tiles on the floor

We hide the pipes into the wall. The order of work

The system was designed with the intention of concealing heating within the wall or floor.

• The first thing to do when it comes to walls from traditional building materials (brick, building blocks, shells, and t.D.), break through the chtrobs – the channels in which the pipes will be laid. The width and depth of the channel is taken from the calculation of the diameter in thermal insulation.
• Pipes are laid in channels, fixed with special clamps. These clamps are attached with self -tapping screws to the walls or floor (when laying on the floor).
• Having collected the system, it is launched, and for some time they are tested at excess pressure. Only after heating has worked at elevated temperatures and high pressure for several days, but there are no leaks, you can close the strokes.
• The holes in the wall are covered with a solution, then putty and brought into line with the type of wall.

You must insert the trbies in the strokes and break through them.

One crucial point to remember is that you need a thorough plan that shows where the pipes are located inside the walls. This is essential to prevent unintentionally damaging the heating system during the next repair or work (drill a hole for the dowel and get into the highway… there will be care for you).

In a similar vein, conceal the walls with floor screed. Almost no differences exist. Everyone should aim to lay in a single, broad stroke for convenience’s sake, from which they subsequently dilute in the appropriate direction. Install the pipes (in thermal insulation) if you haven’t already, and then create a screed. Once more, maintain a communication plan.

In a similar way, they conceal communications in the strobe and floor screed.

Installing communications beneath the plank floor will be a little simpler because there is typically enough room to conceal the pipe in the heat insulator. Probably all that remains is to lay in such a way that, should the need arise, one or two boards can gain the greatest possible access to the trunk beneath the floor (just in case).

Heating in the floor of advantages and disadvantages

Examine all the benefits and drawbacks of this heating system thoroughly before concealing any pipes with a concrete screed. They shouldn’t be disregarded since doing so will ensure that money is invested sensibly.

Think about the benefits of the floor’s different heating system.

1. Long period of use.
2. A uniform level of heating.
3. The system in concrete filling in the floor is distinguished by cheaper content, if compared with classic options.
4. Simple care.
5. No moisture.
6. Economical use of the area.
7. Complete safety (installation of the system in a concrete screed allows you to avoid children"s injuries and burns from hot pipes).
8. The air is constantly maintained in the air.

Although there aren’t many flaws in the screed, you still need to become acquainted with them.

1. First of all, when laying the heating line under the screed, the height of the room decreases.
2. The repair work of the pipes is not as easy to carry out as in classical cases, because finding a place for leaks in a hidden line is not easy.
3. Conducted installation in specific places cannot be obtained. These include stair span and t. P.

Crucial! These structures in the mansions are built without limitations, and a different strategy will be needed for the apartment. It is imperative to ensure that the central network of apartment buildings can handle a substantial hydraulic load.

It is important to thoroughly consider the drawbacks and to be ready for the possibility of heating in the screed at some point. Remember that it can be challenging to determine the pipe’s flow in these kinds of constructions.

Furthermore, fixing the leak won’t be simple once its location has been established. It is crucial to approach work with complete responsibility as a result.

Methods for installing heating pipes in the floor

We’ll look at two options in this block:

• installation for filling;
• Installation under a wooden coating.

Installation for filling

The technique works well in homes and apartments, even ones with wooden floors. You can pour the screed onto a black wooden floor. The course of action in both situations is the same:

• waterproofing is spread;
• the insulation is laid;
• a reinforcing mesh is laid;
• pipes are divorced and fixed;
• a damper ribbon is glued;
• everything is poured with a layer of solution.

Everything is in order now. Waterproofing is applied to the floor to keep out moisture from below and to keep a wet solution from coming into contact with a dark, wooden floor. After that, the work area is insulated. Foam and its derivatives, like a foam, are the best materials for insulation. To distribute the load in the layer of frozen solution, a steel mesh is placed on top of the insulation. The screed will break in the absence of reinforcement.

There are unique foam mats with tubercles on their surface. Like mesh cells, they are arranged in rows with equal gaps between them. These mats are just put down on the floor, wired over them, and a solution is poured over everything. Easy to use, quick, and excellent. But new technologies.

The floor’s "Snail" heating pipe wiring pattern.

One of two schemes is used for the wiring of the floor’s heating pipes:

A circular circuit layout from the room’s walls to its center is implied by the snail scheme. The direction of circulation does not make any abrupt turns. Every time the snake moves from one wall to the next, the direction of the water flow changes by 180 degrees. While not inherently terrible, the first plan is still better.

The circuit needs to be fixed on the surface, and you should keep in mind that its length will increase. As a result, the highway should be able to slide through the mount without it being too difficult. Use plastic clips that are misaligned with the floor as an alternative. The pipes are connected to the grid using standard clamps, which are simpler to use.

A warm floor is actually a layer of frozen solution with concealed heating pipes. Simultaneously, neither the walls nor the draft floor are rigidly attached to the cement plate. This big rectangular parallelepiped just rests on the ground, its volume varying from time to time.

You must always remember to use the damping tape. This is a foamed polymer strip that is adhered to the wall around the whole circumference of the space. The floor should be followed by the lower edge. When pouring, the damper tape prevents the solution from boiling to the walls by making up for the screed’s expansion. The screed covering the heating pipes needs to be at least three centimeters thick overall, and preferably seven centimeters thick. If the layer is too thick, the surface temperature will be lower than anticipated, and if it is too thin, it will crack.

Installation under a wooden coating

Pipes for heating on a wooden floor

Although less efficient than putting pipes in the screed, this technique is occasionally used. If you are installing heating pipes in a wooden floor, you must first establish a buffer zone. Lags (bars) are laid for this purpose. After that, the pipes are split apart by the lags. Grooves are cut out in wooden logs where the circuit and bars meet, keeping the highway in one plane throughout. Of course, in order to ensure that all heat rises, waterproofing and insulation are required. In order to avoid breaking through the highway, the last floor is neatly pointed to the lags.

Let’s now review. The best products for installing heating pipes beneath the screed are those labeled Rech/Evon/Reh and made of stitched polyethylene reinforced with ethylene alcohol. The highway should be seamless, with each segment being constructed from one piece. Prior to pouring, the floor must be waterproofed and insulated. The minimum and maximum thicknesses for the heating pipe should be three and seven centimeters, respectively. The room’s perimeter is sealed with a damper ribbon. About 40 degrees is the temperature in the system warm floor, and about 30 degrees is the temperature on the final floor’s surface.

Sequence of actions when laying pipes

There is no cause for the extremely difficult pipe laying. Here, correctly joining the system’s individual components is crucial.

I cannot tell you how to lay pipes in your particular situation. Everything is dependent on the scheme chosen, the quantity of radiators, the boiler, and numerous other elements. The guidelines are generally as follows:

• The boiler is installed in a specially designated room for this;
• Heating radiators are mounted;
• combs are installed in the collector cabinet;
• Additional elements are placed (pumps, expansion tanks, and so on);
• All these parts are connected by pipes.

As a result, going forward, I will focus mostly on how to install pipes between different components of a residential building’s heating system.

Installation

Isn’t it preferable to see something once rather than hear it a hundred times?

In the home of my nearest relatives, the warm floor is currently installed. Sadly, I was unable to take pictures of every step of the report; nonetheless, the essential details were covered.

First, let’s take a quick look at what is actually built:

• The heat source-the air pump "Air-Wood" from Danheat with a capacity of 12 kW. The climate of Sevastopol allows you to use it for heating all year round. The external unit is mounted on the blind area near the house; All other thermal equipment (including a 300 liter heat -accumulator tank) is carried out to the basement;

The heat pump’s outer block is seen in the picture.

Heat accumulator tank located in the home’s basement.

• On each floor of a two -story building, its own collector shield is assembled. It allows you to centrally control the temperature modes of each individual circuit;
• The wiring of the coolant to the shields is performed by reinforced polypropylene, the warm floor with a PE-RT pipe with a diameter of 16 mm in a step of 20 cm;
• PE-RT pipe is also used to connect fanchools-devices for cooling the room. The heat pump, how easily guesses, knows how to work in air conditioning mode.

In strobes and hubby, pipes will be installed to connect the fanchools.

Now, for the details of the installation process:

1. The old screed with an abundance of cracks is completely removed in order not to increase the load on the overlap and not reduce the height of the ceilings;
2. Slate overlap is leveled with concrete preparation with fiber reinforcement (chopped fiberglass);
3. Plates of extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 30 mm are laid on top. Laying – without fixation, the insulation will be reliably pressed by screed;

The substrate for insulation is laid.

1. The pipe is fixed to the insulation with plastic clamps with a step of 20 cm. Laying is made by a "snail" that gives a more uniform distribution of temperatures inside the circuit. The length of each circuit does not exceed 100 meters; Those where this is not enough to heat the entire area of the floor, the pipes are laid by several independent contours;

The screed is heated most uniformly when it is laid "snail."

1. All compounds are performed outside the screed – in the collector shield and on the connection with the fancoles;

A collector shield located on level two.

1. The pipes are filled with fiber concrete with a thickness of about 5 cm. It is supposed to use a tile (in the kitchen and in the hallway) and laminate (in living rooms) as a finished coating).

And now for the depressing part: the only expenses that surpassed 800 thousand rubles were those related to the installation of the warm floor’s pipes and thermal equipment. I dare to point out that, given the minimal cost of the heat source, the installation and the air pump "air-water" are both reasonably priced.

Including all of the labor-intensive work involved in setting up the warm floor, my imprecise estimation puts the total expenses (direct and indirect) at roughly 1200,000 rubles for a 280 m2 heated area.

For instance, the inventory air conditioners that the company used to heat my 150-square-meter home were roughly ten times less expensive. The inverter, which operates on an air-to-air circuit, is essentially the same heat pump with relatively similar running costs for heat preservation.

A 60-meter attic with inverter air conditioning offers a comfortable environment.

How to close heating pipes in the wall or in the floor

You can conceal the heating pipes in the wall or floor while the building is being renovated or constructed. Unable to determine if this is a good option or not.

First off, you might run into issues if you try to hide communications in an apartment in a multi-story building rather than a private home. As per legal requirements, authorization is needed to modify engineering communications. The modification project must not only be ordered, but it also needs to be coordinated within the operational organization. And the likelihood of obtaining consent is almost nonexistent. There are advantages and disadvantages to this solution, even if you get permission to upgrade or equip your home.

Not everybody desires to see the heating pipes.

pros. Firstly, they do not spoil the appearance of the room, and secondly, their heat transfer is increased since the thermal conductivity of building materials is better than the thermal conductivity of the air. That is, it turns out that by hiding the pipes into the walls or floor, you increase the efficiency of heating. But this is provided that you will not protect them with a heat insulator, but such a solution also has negative aspects (described below). To all this, such a decision has a fairly large minus: In the case of a leak or the need to replace/repair/revision, you will have to destroy the wall with all the ensuing consequences. We are not talking about rapidly eliminating breakdowns at all, and if you live in a high -rise building, then guaranteed to flood your neighbors … So it is better to hide the heating pipes in your house: at least you will not have to pay the neighbors for repairs.

If the pipes are concealed in the floor, this could appear to be a radiator.

However, more and more people do just that. And all because modern materials have more than a substantial period of trouble -free operation, some of which have been calculated in decades. For example, the service life of some types of polypropylene products is 50 years. Almost the same amount of high -quality metal -plastic products serve. The longest service life is up to 100 years – copper, although there are shortcomings: too high thermal conductivity of copper can lead to the fact that most of the heat will go to the walls, and nothing will reach the radiators, and copper is very demanding, and copper is very demanding. And if they are not observed, they can collapse in a matter of months. The pipeline from high -quality such materials may well lie in the wall for more than a dozen years and at the same time there will be no problems for all the time

All that matters is selecting premium content and placing it appropriately.

The rules that need to be taken into account when designing heating systems

The system’s consideration is just as crucial as the selection of content. There are a few guidelines that you should be aware of:

• When laying pipes from polypropylene and metal -plastic (namely, modern heating systems are most often collected), it is necessary to provide a compensation loop for leveling temperature extensions. If uninhabited PPR pipes are used, then each of its meters when heating the coolant to 70 ° C is almost not 1 cm to increase. This is enough to destroy the wall or screed. Therefore, you need to use reinforced pipes and make compensators.
• You can’t close collapsible fittings into the wall or floor: only welded unusable. This applies to heating from any material. If you hide metal -plastics in the walls, then in places where there are fittings (they are either pressed, or squeezing, or threaded), it is necessary to make viewing windows: even the best and best -set fittings require periodic tightening, otherwise they begin to “dig up”. Therefore, it is imperative to leave access to such compounds, otherwise you will have to break the wall in a couple of years.
• Thermal insulation for heating pipes in the wall is desirable. There is a special “sleeves” with a cut made of foamed polyethylene, but it is quite possible to use polystyrene foam, you can wrap with basalt wool (it is not very difficult to work with a fiberglass with it) or any other material similar in characteristics. For products made of metal (any), there is a destructive contact with the material of the walls, especially with concrete. When condensate is formed, a phenomenon of chemical or electrochemical corrosion occurs, which is subject to all the exceptions of metals. Therefore, isolation is also necessary to protect against corrosion.
• You can, of course, lay them without insulation, but then the system will be very inertial – to heating the walls, and then a lot of time and heat will go on their cooling, and the room will already be heated after the walls are warmed up. And when laying in the external walls, this can generally become a problem: not all houses can boast of excellent thermal insulation. Heating of such external walls can select all energy, and the room will be cold. In addition, it will still have to solve the problem of condensate and dew points. In general, without thermal insulation, laying heating pipes into the wall is extremely undesirable.

It is preferable to install pipes in the screeds and walls’ heat-insulating layer.

It is preferable to create separate channels and leave a minimum of 10 cm between the feed and return if you place them in one stroke.

If you lack sufficient experience in this area, attempt to seek advice from a qualified expert who can identify the best course of action in all or most of the scenarios that may arise. Thus, you ought to carefully consider your options before acting on them and arrange every aspect of your life.

Cons of location of heating pipes in the floor

If you need to drill a hole in the floor, say, to install wooden structures, you might run into problems. Care should be taken during work to avoid damaging the heating pipes. After pipes are installed, a plan of their locations should be created to eliminate such circumstances.

Installing pipes in the floor may be hindered by potential repair difficulties.

It’s difficult to find a leak when laying closed. Wet patches on the floor are the first indication. Beneath the finish coating, they can go unnoticed for a very long period. The size of the pipe hole and the length of time the detection is detected determine the diameter of the spots. It is challenging to locate a leak in them if they are sufficiently large. Оогда отсутствуют явные признаки, негерметичность системы можно паметить по падения давления (показаниям манометра) или мокрым стенам и подтёкам на потолке нижнего этажа.

Following the discovery of the coolant leak, a fairly arduous procedure lies ahead. Part of the finish coating must be removed, the defect site must be carefully opened, the coupling must be installed, or a portion of the pipe must be replaced. The repair site is then once more filled with solution. However, since the system now has a connective connection as a result of the manipulations, there is a chance of leakage. It is therefore wise to change the contour in its entirety.

Although it still requires removing the finish coating, repairing pipes covered in a wooden coating doesn’t take as long.

Generally speaking, flexible pipes (such as metal-plastic joints and stitched polyethylene) can be replaced without an autopsy. This is only appropriate for radiation wiring, which is when a few pipes from the collector are suitable for each radiator.

Replacement is only feasible if the heating pipes are installed in corrugated tubes, have a maximum length of 10 meters, have minimal bends with radii greater than 10–12 pipe diameters, and have no corrugation that has been compressed by screed. Data acquired through experimentation may exhibit discrepancies.

• Higher cost compared to the traditional installation scheme. Expenses will increase by 5-10 times. The final price will depend on the cost of the material and the work performed.
• Thermal power, obtained only when the floor is heated, is limited and without wall heaters it may not be enough to heat the room. Will the entire room be warmed up under the floor? How effective thermal insulation is in it? Is the heating temperature only from pipes in the floor, if 40-50 degrees are below zero outside? These questions should find answers before the installation.

The height of the floor will rise from 8 to 13 cm as a result of the closed installation method, which also has the drawback of being more difficult to install in occupied rooms (you will need to clear the area of all furniture).

Types of heating pipes for screed

Metal-plastic, polypropylene, and polyethylene products satisfy all of these requirements. Every one of them has benefits and drawbacks. As a result, it will be helpful to think through the advantages and disadvantages of each species’ floor heating pipe in more detail.

Pipes made of polypropylene. Even though the low cost was a big plus, they found that underfloor heating was not widely used. There are several serious flaws that account for the reason.

Thus, the polypropylene pipe has an eight-diameter bending radius. The warm floor pipeline’s adjacent branches’ distance from one another is influenced by this factor. Their diameter of 15 mm will cause them to be separated from one another by 1.2 meters, which will lower the heated room’s level.

One of the greatest materials for heating the floor is stitched polyethylene pipe because it is strong, flexible, and does not expand when heated.

Crucial! The installation of polypropylene heated flooring requires precise temperature conditions. It ought to be at least +15 degrees.

Pipes made of polyethylene. This has one subtlety. It consists of the fact that transverse polyethylene, rather than regular polyethylene, is used in their manufacturing. It is important to distinguish strength, dependability, and resistance to high temperatures from the benefits of heating pipes for this kind of screed. You can get stitched polyethylene with different densities thanks to current technologies. Thus, pipes that are labeled are available for purchase:

• LDPE (Light Density – low density polyethylene);
• MDPE (Middle Density – average density);
• HDPE (High Density – high density).

One advantage of this species’ products is their reduced bend radius (5 diameters). They can also tolerate temperatures as high as +120 °C. But it wouldn’t work here without minuses. The shape of stitched polyethylene pipe is not well maintained. Because of this, a lot of fasteners are needed for their reliable fixation. Furthermore, the strength and dependability mentioned above only pertain to coolant transportation. Polyethylene pipes are easily broken when filling the screed or even when laying.

Plastic-metal pipes. Despite being relatively new to the market, these products have already taken the top spot.

Metaloplasty pipes exhibit exceptional strength properties, are impervious to corrosion, and do not experience internal scaling.

Pipe made of metal and plastic has three layers. In addition to ensuring flawless coolant transportation across a smooth surface, the internal polymer shields the product from corrosion and scaling. Consequently, a lengthy service life. You can endure the high temperature and maintain the pipe’s shape thanks to the average aluminum layer. The outermost layer of polymer shields aluminum from outside mechanical forces. An unique type of adhesive is used to join the three layers together. This material, among other things, dictates how long the constructed structure will last. When the composition adhesive dries, the pipe just spreads and stops retaining hot water.

The relative difficulty of independently fastening the pipeline segments must be highlighted as one of the drawbacks (laser or ultrasonic welding is typically not used at home). It’s possible to "short" a bit and get leaks. Conversely, if you "squeeze," the malformed portion has to be cut off and a new one applied.

In conclusion, it should be mentioned that using copper pipes is the best technical solution for the warm floor arrangement. Experts point out that they have an impressive strength margin and the same durability as advantages. Furthermore, copper pipe heat transfer and allowable bending radius are elevated to the status of absolute leaders. On the other hand, not every countryman can afford the warm floor due to its high cost, mounting on their basis.

Simple but useful tips

A few helpful pointers for people who install the apartment’s heat supply on their own:

1. To easily drag a plastic pipe through a corrugated shell, carefully remove the chamfer at the end, it will freely insert, even when the corrugation has bends.
2. So that the corrugation does not slip from the sleeve during installation, sealing the strata with a solution, wrap it with tape.
3. Consider the plan of the apartment, heating will heat the floor in the place of gaskets. Mount through the aisles.
4. Fix the radiator from above, below for stiffness, full circulation.
5. Be sure to make a loop of self -compensation on each long manifold.
6. Install converters, they are more expensive, but much more effective.

Crucial! The PE-X polymer installation requires a specialized hydraulic tool. The set costs 16500 rubles to purchase or rent.

Create a project for the apartment’s heating and use apartment systems; new, multi-story, multipurpose buildings must be constructed. To create comfortable conditions, residents of such apartments can cover, fully close, or independently adjust the temperature of the supply taps for heating devices. It is strictly handled by the counter. Watch the helpful video in the apartment as well.

Video: Selecting pipes for installing heating systems

Video: The apartment’s heating system is being installed (Dedovsk)

How to connect a heating radiator most efficiently is demonstrated in this video.

Video: radiant floor heating in newly constructed apartments.Watch Video

Heating pipes under the floor of materials and requirements

Since the future system must be robust and able to withstand both internal and external pressure, you can install beneath the flooring far away from any pipes.

It is not appropriate for this pipe to corrode. If not, the overlap will need to be routinely disassembled by the system owner in order to replace the rusted section. Underfloor pipe pipes should not be penetrated by pairs, especially not by oxygen, as this promotes the growth of rust, which eats away at reinforcement structures and fasteners.

With these things in mind, you can construct a floor heating system using pipes made only of these materials:

• Pipes from copper. This option is the most expensive, but such pipes are suitable according to all the standards presented to a hidden heating gasket. Copper is not subjected to corrosion, resistant to mechanical damage and does not pass oxygen.
• Polymer pipes made of steam -permeable material (polybutilene or polyethylene). These pipes are quite resistant to external and internal pressure and are not at all to corrode. At the same time, polymeric materials are not enough for hardness, they are easy to cut, so it is recommended to install these pipes in a cement screed, which acts as a tread.
• Multilayer metal -plastic pipes from composites. These pipes have hardness, strength and resistance to rust. At the same time, metal -plastic will cost much cheaper than copper. This option can be called the most optimal of those presented in the construction market in Russia now.

Installation of pipes in the floor

Fasten heating pipes

Methods for mounting warm pipes

Which pipe to use for heating will determine how the warm floor is attached to the base. Nevertheless, since the strength and longevity of the compounds are not as great as the strength and durability of the entire pipe, it is still worthwhile to try to avoid or reduce the number of connecting joints.

Select pipes long enough to allow you to install a system without joints underneath the floor.

The capacity of plastic pipes to regain their original shape after deformation is one of their characteristics. As a result, when constructing a heating system, these pipes must be fixed on the basis as soon as they are bent at the proper angle.

This "memory" is not present in copper or multi-layer pipes, in contrast to elastic polyethylene pipes. They are flexible and can be bent in various ways. The floor water heating pipe will continue to have its original shape.

To secure the heating pipes, they employ:

• paper clips;
• clips;
• special nets;
• slices with cuts;
• foam insulation with special grooves for pipes, reliably fixing them.

The location of the heating pipes is shown in a diagram called a sore grid by the manufacturers to make pipe installation easier and ensure that bends are made at specified intervals. It’s simple to design a system that will heat the floor uniformly after that.

Plan for locating pipes in the screed

Occasionally, in an attempt to save money, common foam sheets are bought and used as the foundation for fastening pipes. These sheets are then covered in insulating film and a steel grid is placed on top. Additionally, it already has a clip or wire connecting the entire heating structure to it.

Choose foam sheets for a flooring device that have a minimum density of 20 kg/m3.

Features of laying floor heating pipes

• Before starting to lay heating pipes in the floor screed, you should pay attention to isolation. The floor in those rooms that are directly above the cold basements must be supplemented with insulating panels. Otherwise, part of the heat given by the pipes will be absorbed by the floor slab, and not enter the room itself, for heating which everything is arranged.
• The most used method of laying heating pipes in the floor is “wet styling”. As a result of the sealing of pipes in a seamless floor layer, excellent heat transfer is guaranteed. In this case, the pipes are mounted on a factory or homemade reinforcing mesh.

Plans for laying pipes

• To ensure uniform heating, ensure that sexual heating in the room is arranged in the form of a spiral or snakes with the same “step” between turns or zigzags.
• Before finally pour the prepared system of pipes with a concrete screed, once again you need to check the tightness of all pipes and transitions.

Remember to leave compensation seams in a screed of concrete to allow pipes to expand freely in the presence of heat.

• During “dry styling”, for example, chipboard slabs are used. They are laid on top of the prepared mesh with pipes attached to it, placed on the heat -insulating layer. The simplicity of this method and speed of the installation process are slightly diminished by the fact that a fairly large amount of heat is consumed useless due to the presence of inevitable voids that poorly conduct heat.

Prefabricated pipe

Subsequently, underfloor heating becomes less of an exclusive perk for the wealthiest segments of society due to the growing demands for comfort in homes, as well as new materials and techniques for construction and installation. A warm floor is a necessary and rather convenient communication tool that more and more people can afford to use.

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In your quest for a cozy and energy-efficient home, selecting the right heating pipes for underfloor installation is crucial. With various options available, it"s essential to understand each type to make an informed decision. Whether you opt for radiant floor heating, electric heating cables, or hydronic systems, each method comes with its own set of installation requirements and considerations. By delving into the specifics of each option, you can confidently choose the system that best suits your needs and budget. Plus, learning how to install these pipes yourself can save you money and give you greater control over your home"s comfort. So, let"s dive into the world of underfloor heating systems and find the perfect fit for your home.

Why are heating pipes hid in the floor in new buildings

Why do new buildings have heating pipes hidden in the floor?

All homes were constructed using the conventional one- and two-pipe heating schemes up until 2000. Up until 2000, the entire house’s heating system in the new building apartment was handled by a single design. This allowed for total control over the heating process on the one hand, but it also precluded an individual approach to the residence.

At present, the building process has shifted away from adhering to specific guidelines, and every home is unique due to its distinct personality.

Modern homes and new construction are typically built with individual heating systems for each apartment, meaning that the conventional riser system—in which all pipes are visible—cannot be utilized.

The owner can install heating in his own apartment without interfering with the interests of his neighbor by using individual heating. This is very convenient because it allows for the repair and replacement of heating devices without compromising the neighbors’ access to heat, something that was previously unachievable with conventional heating schemes.

In newly constructed buildings, each apartment has a separate withdrawal with shut-off valves, and a single common heating pipeline is installed on a single apartment riser. You can simply replace and repair heating equipment and pipelines by shutting the apartment’s entrance valve.

How can the apartment’s plumbing be installed to be both aesthetically pleasing and practical?

The modern interior requires the pipes to be removed so that they do not interfere and are not visible. If you lay on the apartment’s interior walls, they will pass horizontally, parallel to the floor, making it uncomfortable to place furniture against the walls.

Pipes from both domestic and Western manufacturers were therefore developed for a specific purpose and can be laid on the floor beneath the screed. To prevent heating the screed, pipes are placed in isolation within the floor.

In order to accomplish this, they placed a cabinet with collectors next to the apartment’s entrance, from which they conduct wiring for concealed heating pipes in the floor. We lay a different pipeline for every radiator.

The entire gasket is concealed from view, meaning that vibrant pipes, fittings, and connections from the wall and floor are not visible when connecting radiators. Everything is well-kept and lovely.

Get in touch with us; we’re always available to assist you with apartment heating, including choosing the right radiators and performing installation work. Give 8 (495) 787-17-43 a call.

You can also read about what supplies are required for the apartment’s heating system.

Types of heating pipes

The sensible utilization of energy and the proper functioning of the home’s heating system are real realities. Assuring the least amount of maintenance required for heating equipment in a private building, finding the best price for system installation in a wooden home, and achieving maximum efficiency at the lowest possible cost are all very real. The most important thing is to install the heating system correctly and run all the pipes throughout the house in time for the heating season.

The options for installing the heating system are numerous and include installing the pipes under the screed, installing the pipes externally on the interior walls of the rooms, installing the communications beneath the floors of a wooden house, or installing the protective boxes and foam covers directly in the ground.

Heat-conductive highways can be heated using a variety of pipe types. The simplest option is to style in the ground using concrete trays with specific equipment using metal pipes (copper and steel). Heating pipes can be laid in the floor with the assistance of reinforced plastic pipes, which are more affordable, easier to install, and just as reliable. For "warm floor" systems, multilayer polypropylene pipes with an oxygen barrier are laid in the screed on the prepared surface.

The simplest way to install heating pipes is using metal ones.

Everything makes sense theoretically, but in reality, there are a lot of problems that need to be fixed. For example, how do you design a project for an autonomous heating system, and what kind of energy carrier should be used to make the system both efficient and cost-effective? And how to install a heating pipe in a private residence within an old building while preserving the interior’s originality – Such a problem requires multiple thought processes to solve.

Crucial! The backbone of the system and the hot water supply circuit from the boiler are connected using only metal pipes, each of which needs to be at least half a meter long.

Hide heating pipes under drywall

This choice works well for the kitchen and bathroom areas of a home. The benefits and drawbacks of this approach are nearly identical to those of the prior one. The sole distinction is that there is no requirement for project approval or engineering network transfer. Therefore, there can be no complaints from the legal perspective.

Another benefit of this solution is that it is simple to conceal the heating pipes in the panel house because there is very little space between the plates and it is nearly impossible to strike (apart from the improbable permission). Reaching the point of communication is nearly as challenging. aside from creating one of the panels on the latches and hinges. to enable simple access to pipes or valves in case of need. Thankfully, there are various accessories available today that can help you bring an idea to life. If you plan to "hide" the presence of heating in the restroom or toilet, you can install audit hatches in strategic locations.

One of the panels (upper) can be created using magnets.

In any event, the process for assembling the box will be as follows: first, take the metal profiles to form the desired frame; next, attach the finishing components to it, such as plywood, MDF, OSB, or drywall. While some of these materials need to be finished, others don’t. However, finishing work has already started. A box of this kind may resemble shelves or a cabinet.

Prior to hiding heating pipes behind drywall, the frame needs to be put together.

A fake wall is one of the frame options. The principles and the work order are the same. The frame is larger and the surface needs gypsum lining due to the entire volume difference. However, the steps are the same: the crate is mounted on the wall first. This is advantageous if the profiles’ depth is sufficient to conceal the pipes’ thermal insulation. If not, you’ll need to install a second crate at a distance. One way to make more room is to first add a counter-rush, and then place a crate—which is already fastened with drywall or another panel material—perpendicular to it.

These boxes are frequently found in restrooms or bathrooms, where all of the tiles are adhered to one another. Standard grout is used to seal the seams, and plastic corners can be used to seal the corners.

The alternative of using a false panel along the wall to elegantly conceal the heating pipes is shown in the picture below.

A fake wall is one method. It appears appealing.

Choose pipes

Ninety-five percent of modern heat supply system designs rely on the use of corrugated stainless steel, polyethylene, and plastic pipes. Every one of them has pros and cons of their own.

Although copper and metal pipes are still allowed, their use is decreasing because of their corrosive nature, high cost, and difficult installation. Products made of plastic that are not inferior in any way are given preference. Watch the video for comprehensive advice on selecting heating pipes.

Video: Selecting heating system pipes.

Metal -plastic, polypropylene pipes

When installing a water supply, heating system, or warm flooring, metal and plastic pipes are always utilized. They are reasonably priced, bend nicely, mount easily, and withstand high temperatures and pressures.

The layers that make up metalloplastics are heterogeneous and have different coefficients of thermal expansion. Based on user experience, it has been observed that when using metal-plastic on a hot water supply, the layers separate and the pipe breaks after five to seven years. It is not advised to use such floor-mounted heating pipes.

Pipes made of polypropylene

Without layers, polypropylene can freely withstand the manufacturer’s guaranteed service life. The primary disadvantage is having to closely monitor the soldering iron’s temperature and heating time during installation. Due to its poor heat conductivity, polypropylene is not suitable for warm flooring.

Corrugated stainless pipe

It is advised to install heat supply networks using corrugated stainless steel pipe that was created utilizing cutting-edge technologies. When such a product is used, heating the floor of a new building or replacing outdated pipelines is simple.

Stainless steel corrugated pipe

The following are some benefits of using it:

• easily bends;
• provides a simple connection of fittings, facilitates, accelerates the installation process;
• The corrugated design compensates for linear vibrations, hydraulic shocks;
• durability;
• not subjected to corrosion, there is no sediment on the walls.

PE-X pipes

PE-X items consisting of steam-cooked polyethylene. Giving the polyethylene molecules more strength through sewing results in a spherically shaped product. The stitching method is indicated by marking applied to the pipes (GOST 52134-2003 for Russian manufacturers):

Peroxides are used to sew PE-XA molecules. This is a costly and time-consuming procedure. PE-XB-train. These are the least expensive items in the PE line because the procedure is straightforward. Using radioactive isotopes in PE-XC sewing.

Since polyethylene is a good oxygen carrier, bacteria can grow inside heating components. The product is multi-layered to prevent oxygen from getting to the coolant. It is placed inside the EVOH layer.

Polyethylene that is more resistant to high temperatures has been created thanks to innovative developments (PE-RT). PE-RT is used in contemporary construction to wire the floor-level heating pipes in apartments.

Crucial! Selecting a pipe with PE-RT/EVOH/PE-RT labeling is advised because it is five-layer and prevents oxygen molecules from entering the coolant. Name; diameter: mm.

Wall thickness, millimeters.

PE-XB 16.0 259 PE-X/EVOH 16.0 2 28 PE-XA 25 3.5 208.6 ELSEN Exxpentax PE-XC 16 2 50 COMMON HOFRIENCE FITTED WITH S9 304 15 Stainless Steel

95-case, HOFRIENCED under 16 mm 25 polyethylene

Pipes of heating varieties

It is important to remember that only metal pipelines can be installed up to the heat point, according to SNiP.

Metal distribution products: pros and cons of

Black or galvanized steel water conduits are used in the installation of heating systems. These have a smoother inner surface and are far more resistant to corrosion; over time, the working diameter essentially stays constant. Black steel pipes are used to connect new construction to the central heating system.

• high strength;
• resistance to pressure drops and hydraulic boards;
• very low expansion coefficient;
• durability.

• Steel heating pipes are laid only in a straight line; fittings are used to form bends;
• Galled products retain their qualities only with a threaded connection, since welding destroys the zinc layer;
• Installation in the floor under a concrete screed requires the same safety measures as when using plastic products.

Metal -plastic heating pipes

It is also inappropriate to weld them into concrete. According to SNiP, the floor’s styling consists of mounting the system after the metal-plastic pipe is enclosed in a large metal sleeve with a diameter of that same. Thus, when growing, space is guaranteed. Reviews from users seem to indicate that this technology is not always used.

• less weight, and, therefore, a simpler installation;
• high operating temperature – +95 C;
• the possibility of laying at an angle without additional connecting elements.

• high price;
• When installing on the floor, you need to use only press films. Compression quickly lose their tightness;
• docking places should remain accessible for inspection.

Plastic reinforced pipeline

According to reviews, the most popular options available today are heating pipes made of stitched polyethylene and polypropylene water conduits. The latter can tolerate coolant temperatures up to +110 s. It is not advised to install risers from polymer water pipelines on SNiP.

The coefficient of thermal expansion is significantly decreased by fiber or fiberglar reinforcement. Although the modifications are concealed, the floor’s material perceives them as such and is unaffected. The following are the products’ benefits and drawbacks:

• Laying for any floor is possible;
• The pipeline is flexible, installation is carried out in the most complex contour;
• does not need thermal insulation;
• the material is a dielectric and does not require additional maintenance.

Fill the screed

When the solution is properly filled, heating in the floor screed will work. It will rely on the size of the entire room as well as the flaws in the base. Concrete screed needs to be applied all the way over the installed pipes. Compensatory seams are essential; otherwise, the floor’s surface will be disgraceful. The screed may become deformed during the heating process. It is polyurethane that fills in compensation seams. Corrugated pipe is the best option when it comes to pipe in these areas.

The concrete layer is usually 30-70 mm. It is prepared from dry mixtures, in which there are all the necessary components, fillers, supplements, plasticizers. If desired, the solution is prepared independently. At the same time, it should clearly observe the proportions for the amount of sand, cement, water and other components. A qualitatively prepared solution will affect the screed. If you forget about the proportions and do everything by eye, then subsequently will not do without the appearance of cracks, shrinkage areas and other defects. Will have to be dismantled and start work again. The warming up of the floor and the entire heated room will be uneven, and the pipeline itself will not be able to last the specified amount of time.

This technology is ideal for industrial facilities as well as residential and commercial buildings. It is essential to allow time for the concrete to fully dry after finishing the floor with concrete. It usually lasts three to four weeks. Everything will be reliant on the actual solution. You can use a grinding machine to walk across the surface as soon as it dries, which will help to ensure uniform smoothness and evenness. The flooring, which is chosen for the heated floor variant, just needs to be laid.

When the room is in need of significant repairs, the choice is made to fill the floor’s heating pipes. Although it can be done, not many people use this when building homes. When completing the floor screed in the pipe apartment, it is imperative. Their selection will determine the final quality. They have to fill up the entire future screed.

You should consult experts first if you need to pour heating pipes into the screed. They will outline all installation-related pitfalls and potentially negative outcomes. If you want to acquire only good traits, it is worthwhile to listen to this.

1. A comparison and selection of heating mats and cables is made in the video, "All About the Warm Floor: Answers to Many Questions."

Video: A partial analysis of the warm floor Why pay more than necessary? Section Two

Video: The warm floor installation method that works the best! How to avoid making mistakes

Video: responds to four inquiries concerning the water-warm floor installation

Collector system

I will go into greater detail about this plan because, to start with, it is very challenging to execute, and secondly, my neighbor selected it.

The collector comb heating pipe laying diagram offers greater scalability, dependability, and flexibility in regulating the microclimate in every room.

Although the collector scheme for heating pipe laying is actually a two-pipe variation, I prefer to draw attention to it separately. In this instance, the pipes are connected to the combs that supply hot coolant and collect cooled water rather than the main highway.

The work plan is as follows:

• The liquid from the boiler flows into the supply of the distribution collector;
• From there, water flows through the pipes to heating radiators (each battery is connected to a comb with a separate pipe);
• After heat transfer, the cooled coolant flows to the collector (return) in the radiators, and then goes to the boiler.

Further equipment is required in order to guarantee the proper functioning of this intricate system:

• sealant expansion tank;
• circulation pump (sometimes several).

This is the layout of the collector heating system’s pipe wiring unit in a big country home.

Typically, collector combs are installed in a special distribution cabinet located in the boiler room. Conversely, I would rather arrange the cabinet in such a way that the distance between it and the heating radiators is roughly equal (saving pipes).

Radiators can be connected in a variety of ways, but I like the lower eyeliner. In this instance, no pipes disrupt the interior harmony of the rooms because they are all walled up in the floor screed.

Naturally, you must use the Maevsky cranes in order to pour air here as well.

As previously mentioned, the option to install warm floors was one of the factors in the decision to go with a collector heating system. Everything is easy to understand here. Furthermore, a pipe that is walled up to the floor and connected to the collector—rather than leading to the pipe—heats it. I always install a second circulation pump on this contour to increase efficiency and prevent overloading the main.

By connecting heating radiators and setting up the floor heating, you can lay pipes in this manner.

I will discuss the advantages and disadvantages of choosing to swing and execute pipe laying in accordance with this plan if you choose to do so as well.

1. Despite the apparent difficulty, such a pipe laying scheme does not require special skills and attracting specialists of the highest level. It is enough if you just know what end to take up the wrench.
2. This system has the largest efficiency of useful action, since the coolant reports thermal energy to heating radiators with almost no unproductive losses.
3. To construct the system, you can use a not very powerful boiler (since the efficiency is high) and the pipes of smaller diameter. However, the latter need a lot.
4. Metal -plastic pipes leading from the collector to batteries have no joints, so you can not be afraid of leakage if they are poured into the floor.
5. You can not put radiators at all, limiting yourself to the arrangement of warm floors. I have come across such solutions more than once and it looks very impressive, and it is quite warm.
6. The failure of some part of the collector heating system does not affect its other parts. You can simply turn off the damaged outline and perform its repair.

Well, the ability to precisely adjust the temperature in each room is the most significant feature for me personally. For instance, you can set the temperature in the nursery to 28 degrees Celsius to prevent illness in the child, but in his office to 20 degrees Celsius to prevent him from falling asleep.

Many materials are required in order to lay pipes in accordance with the collector scheme.

However, there are a few shortcomings:

1. Planting the heating system. From the intensive operation of the pump in horizontally laid pipes, air bubbles are often formed, which accumulate in the upper part of the heating radiators. They are easy to steal from there through the crane of Maevsky.
2. High cost of project implementation. Collector combs, pumps, pipes and so on are worth a lot of money. But this, in my opinion, is just the case when every ruble spent is worth.
3. Inoperance without electrical energy, which nourishes circulation pumps. However, almost all modern boilers cannot work without electricity, so this minus refers to all pipe laying schemes.

For your underfloor heating system to operate effectively and efficiently throughout your house, selecting the appropriate heating pipes is essential. With so many different installation techniques available, it’s critical to comprehend the distinctions and select the one that best meets your requirements.

The staple-up installation technique is a widely used technique in which the heating pipes are fastened to the subfloor’s underside. This approach works well for both new construction and renovations, and it is comparatively simple to install. In terms of heat distribution, though, it might not be the best choice.

An additional prevalent method involves suspended installation, in which the floor joists house the heating pipes. When retrofitting existing homes, this method is frequently chosen because it allows for better heat distribution. However, it could cost more and involve more work during installation.

Last but not least, the installation technique that is most frequently employed is slab-on-grade, in which the heating pipes are set into the concrete slab. This technique is perfect for new construction because it offers superior heat distribution and retention. But since it necessitates close coordination with the construction process, planning ahead is crucial.

To ensure the longevity and effectiveness of your underfloor heating system, use high-quality materials and adhere to correct installation techniques, regardless of the installation method you choose. Making well-informed decisions and achieving optimal results can be facilitated by seeking advice from professionals and adhering to manufacturer guidelines.

Video on the topic

Polypropylene in the screed is impossible!!! Don"t make a screed of warm floors until you watch this video.

What pipes to choose for heating

Which pipes are best used for heating? | Types of pipes | The main differences