How to choose and where to install the air release valve

Adequate insulation and heating systems are essential for maintaining a comfortable and warm home. But, if air becomes trapped in your radiators or pipes, even the most energy-efficient systems may experience problems. Air release valves are useful in this situation. These little but powerful devices let trapped air escape, which helps to ensure that your heating system runs efficiently. However, how do you pick the best one and where do you put it? Come with me as we explore.

First things first: for best results, choose the appropriate air release valve. There are several kinds that are appropriate for different heating systems and configurations. Which valve is best for you depends on a number of factors, including the kind of heating system you have, the size of your pipes, and the location of any potential air pockets. Making an educated choice can be facilitated by narrowing down your options and conducting in-depth research or professional consultation.

The next step is to decide where to install the appropriate air release valve in your heating system after you’ve made your selection. For efficient air removal and overall system performance, the location is crucial. Air release valves are usually positioned high in the system, where air naturally gathers. These high points can be found in horizontal pipes where air tends to congregate, at the top of vertical pipes, or close to radiators. When pipes are positioned properly, trapped air can readily escape, avoiding problems like uneven heating or noisy pipes.

Although installing an air release valve might seem like a simple task, it can have a big impact on your heating system’s longevity and performance. It not only lessens the likelihood of issues brought on by trapped air, but it also increases energy efficiency and lowers the possibility of system damage. You can make sure that your house remains warm and cozy during the winter months by selecting the proper valve and placing it in the proper spot.

Varieties of air dampers

Coolant air bubbles have a tendency to collect in specific areas of the heating system and within the radiators. The bubble that has formed keeps getting fresh oxygen feeds and develops into an air lock that stops the flow of heated water in this area. Neighboring radiators or radiator sections cool as a result.

To remove air from the heating system, there are two types of valves:

  • manual Maevsky valve;
  • automatic float-type vent valve.

Background information in history. In the Soviet era, these air separators were not in use. Open-type systems were used in private homes, allowing air to escape through the expansion tank. Apartment buildings with centralized heating networks had drain valves and air collectors mounted in the highest spots, occasionally even in the radiators.

How the drain cock works

The Mayevsky valve’s design, as depicted in the drawing, is simple to comprehend. An Ø2 mm hole with an external threaded connection of ½" (DN 15) or ¾" (DN 20) is drilled in the end of the brass body. The cross-section of this hole overlaps the screw and has a tapered tip. The side of the casing has a small-diameter hole designed for air discharge.

Note: The updated air vent valve has an outlet channel enclosed in a plastic swivel insert that can be turned. The ability to rotate a plastic washer to change the discharge hole’s position is convenient.

This is how a mechanical "air separator" operates:

  1. In the heating operation mode, the stop screw is tightened and the cone hermetically seals the hole.
  2. When it is necessary to release the air lock, the screw is unscrewed by 1-2 turns. Under the pressure of the coolant, the air passes through the hole with a diameter of 2 mm, enters the outlet channel and moves through it to the outside.
  3. First, clean air is blown out of the hole, then mixed with water. The screw is tightened after a dense stream of coolant flows from the channel.

An air tap Maevsky with a manual drive is a dependable way to heat radiators and remove gases from pipelines. The lack of moving parts that can wear out, clog, or rust is the key to dependability. The valve is typically utilized as a radiator air ventilator.

Manual heating air valves are classified into different types based on how the screw is unscrewed:

  • by means of a plastic or metal handle;
  • The traditional variant is a slot for a flat screwdriver;
  • screw with a square head to use a special wrench.

The master plumber’s video explains the Maevsky valve and its operation in great detail.

Principle of operation of the automatic air ventilator

The fact that this kind of bleed valve functions without the need for human intervention is easily deduced. The element is a vertical brass barrel that has a plastic float inserted into a threaded connection G ½ " (DN 15). A lever connects the latter to a bleed valve that is spring-loaded and fixed within the cover.

As a point of reference. Automatic air vents, also known as auto-air vents, diverters, or dumpers, are manufactured using two different sizes of male threads for connection: ½" and 3/8 ". However, half-inch thread is typically used in post-Soviet products; 3/8 thread is very uncommon.

The automatic air vent works on the following principle:

  1. In operation, the chamber inside the housing is filled with water pressing the float upwards. The spring loaded air valve is closed.
  2. As air accumulates in the upper zone of the chamber, the level of the coolant decreases and the float begins to lower.
  3. When the level drops to a critical value, the weight of the float will overcome the spring elasticity and the valve will open, and the air will be blown outward.
  4. Due to the excess pressure in the heating system, the water will push all the air out of the device chamber, take its place and push the float up again. The valve will close.

As long as the float is at the bottom of the tank, air removal from the pipe network during coolant filling is continuous. The venting stops when the spring closes the valve and the water fills the chamber. It should be noted that part of the air mixture will remain within the casing beneath the lid, but this will not have any impact on how the heating works normally.

The automatic machines are connected directly and at an angle, as indicated by the way the air vents are executed. While some manufacturers lead the discharge upwards vertically, others lead it to the side, using a nipple as a "spout." These distinctions may not seem significant to the average homeowner, but they will reveal a great deal to a skilled plumber.

For instance. Experience has shown that a side-outlet automatic valve is more dependable than a vertical-outlet automatic valve. Conversely, the design with a lower direct connection design collects air bubbles better than the product with an angled connector.

Automatic air vent designs are continuously being refined. Top producers of heating system components add extra features to their goods:

  1. Protection against hydrostroke with the help of a reflective plate (placed at the inlet to the chamber).
  2. Effective trapping of small bubbles is achieved in a flow-through design with two horizontal connections for connection to the network. The lower zone of the increased volume of the tank is occupied by a special filler that stops moving air bubbles and collects them in the chamber.
  3. Ability to remove the air thrower for maintenance purposes, without emptying the pipes. This is achieved by installing an automatic shut-off valve with a spring on the inlet connection. When the plumber unscrews the element, the spring straightens and the washer with a sealing ring closes the passage, as shown in the diagram above.
  4. Building a mini-valve into the radiator plug (see photo).

A poetic aside. It is essentially incorrect for homeowners and a few ignorant "experts" to refer to the float air vent valve as an automatic Maevsky valve. Although it has nothing to do with the "automatic" valve, inventor Majewski proposed the design of a manual valve in the 1930s.

Where air release valves are installed

There are locations in every water heating system where installing air vents is required. When discussing Maevsky cocks, it is recommended to turn them all the way on to release the trapped air. The precise location is in the upper corner plug, far away from where the supply line connects to the appliance. That’s where the bubble of air originates.

The heating network’s automatic air valve needs to be installed precisely vertically at the following locations:

  • in the safety group of the boiler connected to the closed type system;
  • on both floor heating manifolds;
  • If the highest point is a pipeline, and not a radiator, then a float air vent is cut into it;
  • in the buffer tank and indirect heating boiler, if it is provided by the design;
  • on the coil of the towel dryer;
  • to the common distribution comb of a complex and branched system (to both manifolds);
  • to the hydraulic circuit separator (hydrostrelka).

In addition to these locations, air throwers are positioned in troublesome areas of the heating network where the challenging pipe-laying conditions result in U-shaped loops that are turned upward. For instance, the main line goes up a flight of stairs and then around a doorway before descending once more. There is a 100% chance of air locks forming in these compensators, so an air vent—ideally an automated one—is required.

Advice: Never cut the Maevsky valve directly into the pipework; otherwise, the bubbles will pass through it while the coolant flows, rendering the valve inoperable. While the "automatic" flush has its own chamber for collecting air, the manual "flush" requires one in order to function properly. Install a tap on top of the vertical pipe that you tapped into the mains to act as an air collector.

Instead of using Maevsky valves to fill the heating network with water, install automatic angle air vents if you don’t want to run between radiators with a screwdriver. This solution is also appropriate for tenants in apartments with central heating because air plugs are frequently found in cast-iron batteries, which are impossible to remove.

Additional guidance. Make a miniature replica of the radiator cover valve to stop the corner air extractor bulb from poking out and clinging to the curtains.

Choosing and installing the right air release valve is crucial for maintaining an efficient and effective heating and insulation system in your home. These valves help release air trapped in your heating system, preventing airlocks and ensuring proper circulation of hot water or steam. When selecting an air release valve, consider factors such as the type of heating system you have, the pressure and temperature requirements, and the size of your pipes. It"s essential to install the valve at the highest point in your heating system, where air tends to accumulate. Proper installation ensures that the valve can effectively release trapped air, allowing your heating system to operate smoothly and efficiently. By carefully choosing and installing air release valves, you can optimize the performance of your heating and insulation system, ensuring comfortable temperatures and energy savings throughout your home.

Considerations Location
1. Identify the highest points Top floor or attic
2. Accessible area Near the boiler or in a utility room

Maintaining an effective heating and insulation system in your home requires selecting and installing the proper air release valve. With so many different styles and sizes on the market, it’s important to take into account things like the kind of heating system, the size of the house, and the possible locations of air pockets.

Choose an air release valve that will work with your heating system and be able to efficiently release trapped air without rupturing pipes or creating pressure problems. If you’re not sure which valve to get or how to install it correctly, get professional advice.

The location of the air release valve is also crucial. Installing it near radiators or at the top of vertical piping—the highest point in the system where air tends to collect—is a good idea. By ensuring effective air removal, problems like less even heat distribution and noisy operation are avoided.

Maintaining your heating system and air release valve at optimal performance requires routine maintenance. Regularly inspect the area around the valve for leaks or indications of air buildup, and take quick action to resolve any problems that appear. By taking preventative measures, you can save expensive repairs and guarantee that your house is consistently warm and comfortable.

In conclusion, even though choosing and installing an air release valve might seem like a minor part of insulation and heating, it actually has a big impact on your system’s overall performance and efficiency. You can keep your house comfortable and energy-efficient for many years to come by making wise decisions and paying attention to appropriate placement and maintenance.

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Sergey Ivanov

I like to help people create comfort and comfort in their homes. I share my experience and knowledge in articles so that you can make the right choice of a heating and insulation system for your home.

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