How to calculate the power of the boiler for heating a house

Efficient heating of your home is necessary for both financial viability and comfort. Selecting the appropriate boiler size for your home is essential to this. An overly large boiler will waste energy and money, while a boiler that is too small won’t heat your house sufficiently. So how do you figure out the appropriate size? This post will walk you through the process of figuring out how much boiler power is required to heat your home efficiently.

It’s important to know what factors affect the boiler size needed for your home before starting any calculations. The amount of insulation in your home, its size, the local climate, and the number of occupants all matter a great deal. You should also take into account things like the kind of heating system you currently have and any future expansion plans.

Evaluating the amount of heat loss in your house is one of the first steps in calculating boiler power. Walls, windows, doors, and the roof all allow heat to escape, especially in homes with inadequate insulation. You can calculate how much energy your boiler needs to make up for this loss and keep the interior temperature comfortable by knowing how quickly heat escapes.

Next, you should think about how much heat each room in your home needs. Not every room requires the same amount of heat; the size, insulation, and usage patterns of a space all affect this. You can make sure that your boiler is the right size to meet these different needs by figuring out how much heat each room needs.

After gathering all the required information, you can proceed with determining the boiler power required. This entails utilizing online calculators or formulas created especially for this use. These computations consider variables like your home’s heat loss, the ideal interior temperature, and the boiler system’s efficiency. You can get an accurate estimate of the necessary boiler size by providing accurate information.

Factor to consider Explanation
House size Measure the total square footage of your house to determine the heating load.
Climate Consider the climate of your area. Colder climates require more heating power.
Insulation quality Better insulation means less heat loss, requiring a smaller boiler.
Windows and doors Check for drafts and consider the number and type of windows and doors in your house.
Number of occupants More people mean more body heat, affecting the heating requirements.

Banal question – why know the necessary power of the boiler

It is necessary to provide a few explanations even though the question appears to be rhetorical. The truth is that some homeowners or apartment renters still manage to make errors and err on the side of caution. That is, when investing in equipment with either blatantly low thermal performance, in an attempt to save money, or extremely high performance, in their view, you can always count on having a lot of margin for safety.

That and the other are entirely incorrect and have an adverse effect on both the equipment’s longevity and the comfort of the living space.

  • Well, with insufficiency of heat-intensive ability everything is more or less clear. When winter cold, the boiler will work at its full power, and it is not a fact that at the same time there will be a comfortable microclimate in the rooms. So, you will have to “catch heat” using electric heating devices, which will entail extra considerable expenses. And the boiler itself, functioning at the limit of its capabilities, is unlikely to last long. In any case, in a year or two, homeowners clearly realize the need to replace the unit with a more powerful. One way or another, the price of the error is very impressive.

Whatever heating boiler is chosen, it must have a thermal power that achieves a certain "harmony"—that is, it must fully exceed the thermal energy requirements of the home or apartment and have a reasonable operational supply.

  • Well, why not purchase a boiler with a large margin than it can interfere? Yes, of course, high -quality heating of the premises will be provided. But now let"s list the “minuses” of this approach:

-First off, a boiler with more power can cost a lot more on its own, so it’s hard to justify such an expensive purchase.

-Secondly, the unit’s mass and dimensions nearly always increase as power does. These are needless obstacles to installing, a "stolen" space, which is crucial if the boiler is intended to be installed, say, in the kitchen or another room of the house’s living area.

-Thirdly, you may experience the heating system’s inefficient operation, which results in some energy resources being wasted.

Fourth, excessive power is caused by the boiler being regularly shut down for extended periods of time. This also causes the chimney to cool and produces a lot of condensate.

-Fifth, powerful equipment does not function to its advantage if it is never loaded correctly. While this may sound contradictory, wear increases and trouble-free operation durations decrease dramatically.

Only if an indirect heating boiler is intended to be connected to a water heating system for domestic needs will the boiler’s excess power be justified. That is, when the heating system is intended to be expanded in the future. For instance, the owners intend to build a residential addition on the existing house.

When it comes to figuring out the right boiler power for heating your home, it"s essential to consider several key factors. First off, the size of your house plays a crucial role. Larger homes require more heating power to keep them warm and cozy. Secondly, insulation quality matters a lot. A well-insulated home retains heat better, meaning you won"t need as powerful a boiler. Next, think about the climate in your area. Colder regions demand more heating power compared to milder climates. Additionally, take into account the number of rooms and their individual heating needs. Lastly, consider any future changes you might make to your home, like adding extensions or improving insulation, as these can affect your boiler requirements. By carefully assessing these factors, you can accurately calculate the power of the boiler needed to keep your house comfortably warm throughout the year.

Methods for calculating the required power of the boiler

Since there are so many subtleties to consider, it is actually always preferable to trust experts when conducting heat engineering calculations. However, since it is evident that these services are not free, many owners would rather be in charge of selecting the boiler equipment’s specifications.

Let us examine the most popular online methods for calculating thermal power. Firstly, we elucidate the precise question of what ought to influence this parameter. The benefits and drawbacks of every suggested computation method will be simpler to comprehend.

What are the principles key during calculations

Thus the heating system has two primary jobs to do. We will right away make it clear that they are not at all apart; rather, they have a very close relationship.

  • The first is the creation and maintenance of the rooms comfortable for living temperature. Moreover, this level of heating should spread to the entire volume of the room. Of course, due to physical laws, the temperature gradation in height is still inevitable, but it should not affect the feeling of the comfort of being in the room. It turns out that the heating system should be able to warm up a certain volume of air.

The degree of comfort associated with a given temperature is undoubtedly subjective, meaning that different people will assess it differently. However, it is still acknowledged that the range of this indicator is +20 · 22 °C. Usually, when doing heat engineering calculations, they function at exactly this temperature.

Regarding this, the standards set by the current GOST, SNiP, and SanPin are also mentioned. For instance, the requirements of GOST 30494-96 are displayed in the table below:

The type of room Air temperature level, ° C
optimal permissible
Living spaces 20 ÷ 22 18 ÷ 24
Residential premises for regions with minimal winter temperatures from – 31 ° C and below 21 ÷ 23 20 ÷ 24
Kitchen 19 ÷ 21 18 ÷ 26
Toilet 19 ÷ 21 18 ÷ 26
Bathroom, combined bathroom 24 ÷ 26 18 ÷ 26
Cabinet, recreation and training premises 20 ÷ 22 18 ÷ 24
Corridor 18 ÷ 20 16 ÷ 22
Lobby, staircase 16 ÷ 18 14 ÷ 20
Pantries 16 ÷ 18 12 ÷ 22
Residential premises (the rest are not normalized) 22 ÷ 25 20 ÷ 28
  • The second task is a constant compensation for possible thermal losses. Create a “perfect” house in which heat leaks would be completely absent – a problem of problems, almost unsolvable. You can only reduce them to the maximum minimum. And the ways of leaks to one degree or another are almost all the structural elements of the building.

The biggest threat to heating systems is loss of heat.

The construction element of the building Approximate share from general thermal losses
The foundation, base, floors of the first ethad (on soil or over an unheated raid) 5 to 10%
Joints of building structures 5 to 10%
Sites of the passage of engineering communications through SRODOGE CONCOVACIONS (sewage pipes, water supply, gas supply, electric or communion cables, etc.P.) up to 5%
External walls, depending on the level of thermal insulation from 20 to 30%
Windows and doors to the street about 20 ÷ 25%, of which there are about half – due to insufficient sealing boxes, poor fitting of frames or paintings
Roof up to 20%
Chimney and ventilation up to 25 ÷ 30%

Why were there so many detailed explanations provided? And only so that the reader is fully aware that both directions need to be considered when calculating arbitrarily. That is, the approximate amount of thermal losses from the house’s heated premises as well as their "geometry." And these heat leaks’ total quantity is dependent on several variables. This includes the temperature differential between the inside and outside of the home, the level of thermal insulation, the characteristics of the entire house, the placement of each room, and additional assessment factors.

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Equipped with these foundational insights, let us now examine different approaches for determining the required thermal power.

Calculation of power by the area of heated premises

It is not surprising that this approach is "advertised" more widely than others since nothing is simpler to come up with nothing.

It is suggested to move forward with their conditional ratio, according to which 100 watts of thermal energy are required to heat one square meter of the room to a high standard. Therefore, the following formula will assist in determining the thermal power:

Q is equal to Sobshchi / 10.

Q is the heating system’s required thermal power, given in kilowatts.

S is the total square meters of the house’s heated space.

The simplest method of computation solely takes into account the area of heated rooms.

It’s true that reservations are held:

  • The first – the height of the ceiling of the room should be 2 on average.7 meters, a range from 2.5 to 3 meters is allowed.
  • The second – you can make an amendment to the region of residence, that is, to accept not a tough norm of 100 W/m², but a “floating”:
The region of interest The specific power of the heating system (W is 1 m ²)
Southern regions of Russia (North Caucasus, Caspian, Priazovsky, Black Sea regions) 70 ÷ 90
Central Black Earth Region, Southern Provider 100 ÷ 120
Central regions of the European part, Primorye 120 ÷ 150
Northern regions of the European part, Ural region, Siberia 160 ÷ 200

That is, a slightly different look at the formula will be required:

Sobshchi × QUD / 1000 = Q

QUD: The value, obtained from the table, of the specific thermal power per square meter of the area.

  • The third – the calculation is fair for houses or apartments with an average degree of insulation of enclosing structures.

However, such a calculation cannot be regarded as accurate in light of the aforementioned reservations. I agree that the "geometry" of the house and its surrounds play a bigger role. However, heat loss is essentially ignored, with the exception of the rather "blurry" ranges of the specific thermal capacity by regions (which also have very hazy boundaries), and the statement that the average degree of insulation in the walls is appropriate.

However, because of its simplicity, this approach is still widely used.

It is evident that the computed value needs to include the boiler power’s operational reserve. Experts recommend not going overboard and to stop between 10% and 20%. By the way, this holds true for all techniques used to determine the power of heating apparatus, which are covered in the sections that follow.

Calculation of the necessary thermal power by the volume of rooms

This calculation method basically duplicates the previous one. It’s true that the volume, or rather the same area multiplied by the ceiling height, is the starting value in this case rather than the area.

Moreover, the following specific thermal power norms are acknowledged:

  • for brick houses – 34 W/m³;
  • For panel houses – 41 W/m³.

Computation using the heated room volume as a basis. It also has a poor accuracy.

These norms were installed for apartment buildings and are primarily used to calculate the need for thermal energy for premises connected to the department’s central system or the autonomous boiler room, even based on the suggested values (from their formulation).

It’s clear that "geometry" takes center stage once more. Furthermore, the only factor remaining in the entire system of accounting for thermal losses is the variation in the thermal conductivity of panel and brick walls.

This method of calculating thermal power is also the same, in one word: accuracy.

Calculation algorithm taking into account the characteristics of the house and its individual premises

Description of the calculation methodology

Therefore, the above-mentioned methods only provide a general idea of the quantity of thermal energy needed to heat a home or apartment. Their shared vulnerability is the near total disregard for potential heat losses, which ought to be regarded as "average."

However, it is entirely feasible to carry out more precise computations. This will support the suggested calculation algorithm, which is also implemented in the form of an online calculator and will be suggested later. It makes sense to go step by step by step by the very principle of their implementation right before the calculations begin.

First, a noteworthy observation. The suggested method includes evaluating each heated room independently, rather than the entire apartment or house as a whole or in terms of volume. Assuming that the rooms have the same area, but with variations in, say, the number of external walls, they will need varying amounts of heat. When there is a large disparity in the quantity and size of windows between two premises, it is impossible to place an equal sign between them. And there are a lot of criteria for rating each room.

Therefore, it will be more accurate to determine the required power for each of the premises independently. The intended indicator of the general thermal power for the entire heating system can then be found by simply adding the values that were obtained. That is actually a boiler for her "heart."

Every room in the house has unique qualities. It will therefore be more accurate to determine the required thermal power for each of them separately before adding up the findings.

One more comment. The suggested algorithm makes no claims to be "scientific," meaning that it is not based on any particular formulas developed by SNiP or other regulations. But it was put to the test through actual application, and the results are displayed with a high level of accuracy. The discrepancies from expertly performed thermotechnical calculations are negligible and have no bearing on selecting the appropriate equipment based on its stated thermal capacity.

The calculation’s "architecture" remains the same: it starts with the fundamental specific thermal power value of 100 W/m², as previously mentioned, and adds a number of correctional coefficients to account for variations in a room’s heat loss.

If one were to put this into a mathematical formula, it would look something like this:

Qk is equal to 0.1× SK× k1× k2× k3× k4× k5× k6× k7× k8× k9× k10× k11

Qk is the desired thermal power required to heat a given room completely.

0.1: To translate 100 W to 0.1 kW simply for the sake of getting a result in kilowatts.

SC: The space inside the room.

K1 through K11 are correction factors that are used to modify the outcome while accounting for the room’s characteristics.

Presumably, once the room’s dimensions are known, there shouldn’t be any issues. Thus, we’ll get right into a thorough analysis of correction factors.

  • K1 – coefficient taking into account the height of the ceilings in the room.

It is evident that the amount of air that the heating system should warm directly correlates with the height of the ceilings. It is suggested that the following correction factor values be used in the calculation:

Ceiling height in the room The value of the coefficient K1
– no more than 2.7 m 1
– from 2.8 to 3.0 m 1.05
– from 3.1 to 3.5 m 1.1
– from 3.6 to 4.0 m 1.15
– more than 4.0 m 1.2
  • K2 – coefficient taking into account the number of walls of the room in contact with the street.

The degree of heat loss increases with the area of contact with the outside environment. Everyone is aware that having a room with a corner makes a space much cooler than one with a single exterior wall. Furthermore, certain areas within a home or apartment may not even be visible from the street.

Naturally, you should consider the area of the external walls in addition to their number. However, since our computation is still quite basic, we are only able to add the correction coefficient.

The table below provides the coefficients for the different cases:

The number of external walls in the room The value of the coefficient K2
– One wall 1
– Two walls 1.2
– Three walls 1.4
– the interior of which the walls of which are not in contact with the street 0.8

Situation in which each of the four walls is external is disregarded. This is just some sort of shed now, not a residential building.

  • K3 – coefficient taking into account the position of the external walls relative to the cardinal points.

You should not rule out the potential impact of solar energy, even during the winter. On a clear day, they enter the rooms through the windows and become part of the general heat source. Furthermore, solar radiation is also absorbed by the walls, resulting in a reduction of the overall heat loss through them. All of this, however, only applies to walls that can "see" the sun. On the northern and northeastern sides of the house, where certain amendments can also be made, there is no such influence.

Because the sun’s rays can adjust on their own, the value of the room’s wall in relation to the parties outside can have a value.

The table below shows the values of the adjustment coefficient on the cardinal cardinal:

The position of the wall relative to the cardinal points The value of the coefficient K3
– The outer wall looks south or west 1.0
– The outer wall looks north or east 1.1
  • K4 – coefficient taking into account the direction of the winter winds.

Although it might not be required, it makes sense to consider this amendment for homes situated in open spaces.

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Winter winds are predominant in almost all areas; this phenomenon is also referred to as the "wind rose." Such a plan is invariably available to local meteorologists; it is assembled based on the findings of numerous years’ worth of weather observations. The people who live there are frequently well aware of the winds that bother them the most during the winter.

It makes sense to consider the predominant directions of the winter winds for homes situated in exposed, cleared terrain.

Additionally, the room’s wall will protrude much more strongly if it is positioned on the windward side and is not shielded from the wind by any man-made or natural barriers. In other words, the room’s thermal losses rise. This will be expressed, to a lesser degree, by a wall that is, at the very least, leeward of the wind and parallel to its direction.

You can leave the coefficient at one if there is no desire to "bother" with this factor or if there is no trustworthy information regarding the winds’ winter rise. Alternatively, you could push it to the limit just in case—that is, under the worst circumstances.

The following table contains the values for this correction coefficient:

The position of the outer wall of the room relative to the winter wind rose The value of the coefficient K4
– Wall on the windward side 1.1
– The wall is parallel to the predominant direction of the wind 1.0
– wall -side wall 0.9
  • K5 – coefficient taking into account the level of winter temperatures in the region of residence.

The assessment of heat losses takes into consideration the temperature differential between the room and the street if heat engineering calculations are performed in compliance with all regulations. It is evident that the amount of heat needed for the heating system to function increases with the colder the climate.

Naturally, the degree of wintertime warmth directly affects how much thermal energy is needed to heat the space.

This will also be considered in our algorithm, albeit with allowable simplification. The K5 correction factor is chosen based on the lowest winter temperature that occurs in the coldest decade.

The level of negative temperatures in the coldest decade of winter The value of the coefficient K5
-35 ° C and below 1.5
– from -30 to -34 ° C 1.3
– from -25 to -29 ° C 1.2
– from -20 to -24 ° C 1.1
– from -15 to -19 ° C 1.0
– from -10 to -14 ° C 0.9
– no colder -10 ° C 0.8

It will be appropriate to make one comment at this point. If the temperatures—which are thought to be typical for this area—are taken into consideration, the computation will be accurate. It is not necessary to recall the unusual frosts that occurred, say, a few years ago (which were, incidentally, remembered). In other words, the least extreme yet typical temperature for a certain region ought to be chosen.

  • K6 – the coefficient taking into account the quality of the thermal insulation of the walls.

It makes sense that there will be less thermal loss the more effective the wall insulation system is. Thermal insulation should ideally be fully implemented, based on thermotechnical calculations that are performed and take into consideration the local climate as well as the characteristics of the house’s construction.

The amount of thermal insulation that is currently present in the walls should be considered when determining the necessary thermal power of the heating system. The following correction factor gradation is suggested:

Assessment of the degree of thermal insulation of the external walls of the room The value of the coefficient K6
Thermal insulation was made according to all the rules, on the basis of pre -conducted thermotechnical calculations 0.85
The average degree of insulation. This can conditionally include walls made of natural wood (log, beam) with a thickness of at least 200 mm, or brickwork in two bricks (490 mm). 1.0
Insufficient degree of insulation 1.27

Theoretically, there shouldn’t be any evidence of inadequate or nonexistent thermal insulation in a residential structure. If not, installing a heating system will be very expensive and there is no assurance that it will result in genuinely comfortable living quarters.

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The data and calculator located in the final section of this publication can be used by the reader to determine the degree of thermal insulation of his housing on his own.

  • K7 andK8 – coefficients taking into account heat loss through the floor and ceiling.

The next two coefficients are comparable; when they are introduced into the computation, the approximate amount of heat loss through the premises’ ceilings and floors is taken into consideration. It is unnecessary to go into detail here because the tables display both the potential choices and the associated values of these coefficients:

First, the K7 coefficient, which modifies the outcome based on floor characteristics:

Features of the floor in the room The value of the coefficient K7
A heated room is adjacent to the below with the room 1.0
Insulated gender above the unheated room (basement) or soil 1.2
Unserbed flooring on the ground or over the unheated room 1.4

Now, let’s look at coefficient K8, which adjusts the neighborhood from above:

What is on top, above the ceiling of the room The value of the coefficient K8
Cold attic or other unheated room 1.0
Insulated, but unheated and unlucky attic or other room. 0.9
A heated room is located on top 0.8
  • K9 – coefficient taking into account the quality of the windows in the room.

Here, too, things are quite straightforward: the better the windows, the less heat escapes through them. Generally speaking, old wooden frames are similar in terms of their good thermal insulation qualities. It is preferable to do this with contemporary window systems that have double-glazed windows. However, they might also have a different gradation based on other design elements and the quantity of cameras in the double-glazed window.

The K9 coefficient can be used with the following values for our streamlined calculation:

Features of the design of the window The value of the coefficient K9
– Ordinary wooden frames with double glazing 1.27
– Modern window systems with a double -glazed glass packet 1.0
– Modern window systems with double -glazed windows are two -chamber, or with a single -chamber, but having argon filling. 0.85
– There are no windows in the room 0.6
  • K10 – coefficient of amendment to the area of glazing room.

The amount of heat loss through the windows is still not fully disclosed by their quality. The glazing area is crucial. Yes, it is challenging to draw a comparison between a small window and a large panoramic window that spans the entire wall.

Even in cases where the double-glazed windows are of the highest caliber, thermal losses increase with window area.

You must first determine the room’s so-called coefficient of glazing in order to adjust this parameter. This is straightforward: just find the glazing area to total room area ratio.

SW / S = KW

KW is the room’s coefficient of glazing;

SW is the total square footage of glazed surfaces;

S stands for square meters of the room.

It will be possible for everyone to measure and smack the window area. After that, finding a straightforward division is simple. And he in turn opens the table so that the value of the correction factor K10 can be found:

The value of the glazing coefficient KW The value of the coefficient K10
– up to 0.1 0.8
– from 0.11 to 0.2 0.9
– from 0.21 to 0.3 1.0
– from 0.31 to 0.4 1.1
– from 0.41 to 0.5 1.2
– Over 0.51 1.3
  • K11 – coefficient taking into account the presence of doors to the street.

The final coefficient that is being examined. There might be a door in the space that opens directly onto the street, to a chilly balcony, to an entryway or corridor that isn’t heated, etc. The door itself is frequently a very serious "cold bridge" because each time it is opened, a sizable amount of cold air will enter the space. As a result, consideration should be given to this factor: such heat loss will obviously necessitate additional funding.

The following table lists the K11 coefficient values:

The presence of a door outside or in a cold room The value of the coefficient K11
– There is no door 1.0
– One door 1.3
– Two doors 1.7

If the doors are used frequently throughout the winter, then this coefficient needs to be considered.

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Thus, every correction coefficient is taken into account. As you can see, there is nothing extremely complicated here, so you can move forward with the computations without risk.

Another advice before the start of calculations. Everything will be much easier if you pre -make a table in the first column of which sequentially indicate all the soldered premises of the house or apartment. Further, by columns, place the data required for calculations. For example, in the second column – the area of the room, in the third – the height of the ceilings, in the fourth – orientation on the cardinal points – and so on. It is not difficult to make such a tablet, having a plan of your residential possessions in front. It is clear that in the last column the calculated values of the required thermal power for each room will be entered.

The table can be created by hand on a piece of paper or even assembled in an office program. And don’t be hasty to discard it after doing the calculations; the heat power indicators that emerge will come in handy later on, for instance, if you need to use electrical heating devices or radiators as a backup source of heat.

A special online calculator is provided below to make the reader’s task of performing such calculations incredibly simple. It will only take a few minutes to calculate with him because the source data is already gathered and organized in the table.

Calculation calculator of the required thermal power for the premises of the house or apartment.

Following calculations for every heated premises, a summary of all indicators is provided. This is the amount of total thermal power needed to heat the apartment or house completely.

As already mentioned, a stock of 10 ÷ 20 percent should be added to the final value. For example, calculated power is 9.6 kW. If you add 10%, it will turn out 10.56 kW. When adding 20% – 11.52 kW. Ideally, the nominal thermal power of the acquired boiler should just be located in the range from 10.56 to 11.52 kW. If there is no such model, then the closest in terms of power is acquired towards its increase. For example, specifically for this example, heating boilers with a power of 11 are perfect.6 kW – they are represented in several line of models of various manufacturers.

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How to correctly evaluate the degree of thermal insulation of the walls of the room?

As previously stated, the reader will be assisted in determining the degree of thermal insulation present in the walls of his residential property by this section of the article. You must also perform one streamlined heat engineering calculation in order to accomplish this.

The principle of calculation

Heat transfer resistance, still known as thermal resistance, building structures of residential buildings should not be less than the normative indicator, per SNiP requirements. Additionally, these normalized indicators are set up for each region of the nation based on the characteristics of their respective climates.

Where can I locate these values? They are in special applications to SNiP, to start. Secondly, you can find out more about them from any local architectural or construction firm. However, using the suggested card scheme across the whole Russian Federation is quite feasible.

A map-scheme to calculate the building structures’ normalized thermal resistance value

Since walls are of interest to us in this instance, we use the scheme to determine the thermal resistance value "for walls," which are denoted by violet numbers.

Let’s now examine the components of this thermal resistance and the physics that make them equal.

Thus, for some abstract homogeneous layer X, the resistance to heat transfer is equal to:

Rx is equal to Hx / λx.

Rch stands for resistance to heat transfer, expressed in m³ × ° K/W;

Hx is the layer’s thickness, given in meters;

Λkh: The material’s coefficient of thermal conductivity, expressed in W/m × ° K, is what makes up this layer. This is a tabular value that can be easily found on the Internet’s reference resources for any construction or thermal insulation material.

Even with large (relatively speaking) wall thicknesses, conventional building materials typically fall short of meeting the required benchmarks for heat transfer resistance. Stated differently, the wall cannot be referred to as completely thermo-insulated. This is accomplished by creating an extra layer of insulation, which "replenishes the deficit" required to produce normalized indicators. Furthermore, you can avoid building very large structural thicknesses because high-quality insulation materials have low thermal conductivity coefficients.

Check out the insulated wall’s simplified layout:

Wall schematic featuring an insulating and decorative layer

1 – the wall itself, which is made of a specific material and has a specific thickness. She is typically unable to offer normalized thermal resistance "by default."

2. An insulating layer whose thickness and coefficient of thermal conductivity should guarantee the "covering of shortages" to the normalized indicator R. Make a reservation right away. Thermal insulation can be positioned inside walls or even between two layers of the supporting structure. For example, it can be laid out using the "well masonry" principle and placed on the outside of the wall.

3-finishing the external facade.

4-Decoration of the interior.

Often, the decorative layers have no discernible impact on the overall thermal resistance indicator. However, they are also considered when doing calculations professionally. Furthermore, the finish can be altered; cork plates or warm plaster, for instance, can significantly improve the walls’ overall ability to insulate against heat. Therefore, it is feasible to consider both of these layers when determining the "purity of the experiment."

However, a crucial point to note is that if there is a ventilated space between a facade finish and the wall or insulation, it is never taken into consideration. Furthermore, the ventilated facade’s systems frequently employ this technique. The overall level of thermal insulation in this design will remain unaffected by the external decoration.

Thus, using the above formula, we can easily determine their total thermal resistance and compare it with a normalized indicator if we know the material and thickness of the capital wall itself, as well as the material and thickness of the insulating layers and finish. The wall has complete thermal insulation, no less, no questions asked. If that is insufficient, you can determine which layer and what kind of insulation this shortfall can compensate for.

Additionally, the task will be even simpler thanks to the online calculator that is provided below, which can complete this calculation fast and precisely.

There are multiple justifications for collaborating with him concurrently:

  • To begin with, on the map, the diagram of the heat transfer resistance is found. In this case, as already mentioned, we are interested in the walls.

The calculator is universal, though. It enables you to assess the thermal insulation of roofing coatings as well as ceilings. Thus, you can use (add the page to the bookmarks, if needed).

  • The next group of fields indicates the thickness and material of the main supporting structure – walls. The thickness of the wall, if it is equipped according to the principle of “well masonry” with insulation inside, the total is indicated.
  • If the wall has a thermo -insulating layer (regardless of its location), then the type of insulation material and thickness are indicated. If there is no insulation, then the default thickness is left equal to “0” – they move to the next group of fields.
  • And the next group is “dedicated” by the outer decoration of the wall – the material and thickness of the layer are also indicated. If there is no finish, or there is no need to take it into account – everything is left by default and move on.
  • Similarly come with the interior wall decoration.
  • Finally, it remains only to choose the insulation material that is planned to be used for additional thermal insulation. Possible options are indicated in the drop -down list.

The result in millimeters will be displayed after selecting the "Calculate the missing thickness of the insulation" button. There are potential choices:

A zero or negative value indicates right away that the walls’ thermal insulation satisfies the requirements and that no more insulation is needed.

– A positive value that is almost zero, say up to 10 ÷ 15 mm, also doesn’t cause concern and can be regarded as a high degree of thermal insulation.

A 70 × 80 mm deficit should cause the hosts to pause and consider their options. While this type of insulation contributes to average efficiency and is factored in when determining the boiler’s heat power, it is preferable to schedule work to reinforce thermal insulation. How thick the extra layer that is required is already evident. Additionally, there will be an immediate and noticeable improvement in the microclimate’s comfort as well as a reduction in energy use once these works are implemented.

In other words, if the computation indicates a gap larger than 80 x 100 mm, insulation either doesn’t exist at all or is incredibly inefficient. There are no two ways about it—the possibility of insulation work comes first. Furthermore, this will be far more profitable than buying a high-power boiler, some of which will be used for nothing more than the literal "warming up of the streets." That waste of energy is, of course, accompanied by ruin.

Calculator to assess the effectiveness of thermal insulation of the walls

The publication will be concluded with a video that is also devoted to accounting for thermal losses when determining the heating system’s power consumption. You can get an answer about squeezing fittings for metal-plastic pipes by clicking the link.

Measuring the power of your boiler is essential to making sure your house stays warm and comfortable during the winter. It’s important to choose a heater that will effectively meet your heating needs rather than merely having one. Being aware of the variables that affect this computation can help you avoid discomfort and wasteful spending.

First, think about how big your house is. You’ll need more heat in a larger space in order to maintain comfort. However, square footage isn’t the only important factor; your home’s heat loss can also be influenced by other elements like ceiling height, the caliber of the insulation, and even the number of windows. Considering these guarantees that your boiler is capable of handling the work.

Consider climate next. The location of your home greatly influences how much heating you need. More powerful boilers are needed in colder climates to effectively combat the extreme temperatures. Selecting a boiler that can manage the workload without increasing your energy costs is made easier when you are aware of the climate in your area.

Insulation is another important component. A well-insulated house keeps heat in better condition, which eases the strain on your boiler. Examine the quality of your home’s insulation before calculating its power. Your home may become more comfortable and you may be able to choose a smaller, more energy-efficient boiler by upgrading the insulation.

Finally, keep in mind your needs for the future. While meeting your current heating needs is crucial, planning ahead can help you avoid having to make frequent upgrades. Take into account things like future renovations, possible expansions, and changes in occupancy. Purchasing a boiler with a little excess capacity will help your heating system last longer.

To sum up, knowing how powerful your boiler is is essential to keeping your house toasty and cozy. You can choose a boiler that effectively meets your heating needs without going over budget by taking into account factors like the size of your home, the climate, insulation, and future needs. Making a well-informed decision now can save energy costs and provide years of comfortable winters.

Video on the topic

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What type of heating you would like to have in your home?
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Anna Vasilieva
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