How to build a grubka with your own hands schemes

Appropriate insulation is essential for keeping your house warm and comfortable during the winter. And constructing a grubka, or Russian stove, is another practical way to improve insulation. A grubka not only gives your house a cozy, rustic feel, but it also efficiently heats it. This article will discuss how to construct a grubka by hand, complete with simple instructions.

For centuries, people in Russia have heated their homes and prepared meals using grubkas, a type of traditional stove. Because of its special design, wood can burn efficiently, producing a consistent, long-lasting heat. A grubka is an economical and ecologically friendly way to heat your home because it retains heat for longer than modern heating systems.

Although it may appear difficult, building a grubka is completely doable with the correct advice and a few basic do-it-yourself skills. It’s important to become familiar with the different parts of a grubka and comprehend how they function as a unit to produce effective heating before you begin. Every component, from the chimney to the firebox, is essential to achieving peak performance.

Creating the layout is one of the first steps in creating a grubka. Grubka designs come in a variety of forms, but they usually include a chimney, a heating chamber, and a firebox. Your home’s size and heating requirements are two examples of the variables that will affect the grubka’s dimensions. Luckily, you can find a ton of schematics and blueprints online to assist you in organizing the construction of your grubka.

After you’ve decided on a design, it’s time to acquire the required supplies and equipment. Bricks, clay, and mortar are among the fire-resistant materials needed to build a grubka. To build the frame and shelves, you’ll also need some basic carpentry tools, like a saw and hammer. Certain materials, like clay, might need to be found locally, but others, like hardware store supplies, can be bought there.

Grubka Design	Step-by-Step Instructions
Basic Grubka	1. Dig a hole in the ground. 2. Line the bottom with rocks or gravel for drainage. 3. Place a layer of sand or gravel on top. 4. Build a simple frame with wood or bricks. 5. Fill the frame with insulating materials like straw or hay. 6. Cover the top with a waterproof material like tarp or plastic. 7. Bury the grubka with soil.

Stove-grub with their own hands: from a simple dacha to two-storey for a house with a heated attic

The Gruba stove is a confusing thing. In actuality, the term "Gruba" or "Grubka" is unresolved. Gruba is either a wood stove for a summer kitchen with 150–200 bricks or just a stove for cooking and heating the house in Western and, to some extent, South Slavic languages. Indeed, and in line with. Hubcaps (!!), stoves, baths (! ), Dutch, Swedish, etc. There are even claims that there once existed an exceptional oven designer named Gruba.

In fact, the stove with a grubka, or simply gruba is a compact heating and cooking stove with a heating panel, separate from the stove in terms of heat cycle, but united technologically, t.е. They are built together (see. also further). Hence, the conclusion that the hooded gruba can not be – heating panels to the furnaces are always ducted. Gruba with their own hands is built simpler than a channel furnace of equal thermal capacity with a single thermal cycle, requires less materials and weighs less. However, its thermal efficiency (analogous to the efficiency for stoves) is lower. That is why they are built in seasonally inhabited premises or small houses with good thermal insulation, where some overconsumption of fuel in absolute and monetary terms does not affect the budget.

Note: 1200 bricks or more are needed for heating and cooking in order to produce 12 kW of heat; for Dutch ovens with the same capacity but no cooking surface, 1200–1350 bricks are needed, Swedish ovens 1200–2000 bricks, and Russian ovens 2500–3500 bricks.

Varieties

Grubka with your own hands can be built with a panel built into the body (structure) of the stove, and then it is indistinguishable from a stove, pos. 1 per rice. Grubka-plate is compact, the least material-intensive, the lightest, requires a minimum amount of additional construction work, but its thermal capacity is limited to 10-12 kW, and that with great stress. That"s why gruby-plates are put mostly in seasonal dachas (spring-autumn) with occasional trips there in winter, hunting lodges and so on.п. An important advantage of the rough-slab – it can be built without a foundation directly on the floor, if its load-bearing capacity is not less than 500 kgf/sq. м.

Gruba with an attached shield (pos. 2) more complicated structurally and heavier, although the simplified foundation (see "The shape of slices and the size of portions"). below) is also suitable for it, but its heat capacity is potentially greater. Gruba on wood with an attached panel is able to develop up to 16-18 kW; on coal – up to 20-22 kW. Scheme of flue gas flow in the coarse with a shield is given on pos. 3; the popular Galanka stove is built according to such a model. However, you should know that it makes no sense to build a grubka for more than 3 turns: such a furnace with a single cycle will prove to be simpler and cheaper. In addition, when building it will be necessary to pay special attention to some features of the furnace – groba, the consideration of which is devoted to a significant part of the material of the article.

Note: A bed can also be used to make a wood-fired grubka; for more information, see "Wood-fired grubka." Heating such charcoal causes the rookery to overheat, which is undesirable.

Why rough is rough

A coarse stove can be visually distinguished from a stove with a later attached panel by the solidity of its construction (pos. 4), but they are essentially the same thing. Calculation of the heat efficient stove is very complicated and requires a fairly deep knowledge of thermal engineering, and the development of the design of the stove on the basis of its results and solid practical experience. It is much easier to design and build a roughhouse because its furnace (fire) part and the flue are calculated separately, and then "glued" together according to the rules of conjugation of building structures, taking into account the requirements of thermal engineering. Naturally, the thermal efficiency of the resulting appliance will be lower, t.к. The interaction between the thermal cycles of the firing part and the flap is not taken into account, but it is by taking it into account that it is possible to increase the efficiency of a single cycle furnace. Therefore, If you live in a harsh climate, a roughhouse can only make sense for you as a seasonal stove for temporary use.

Firebox, panel and chimney

The main differences between a rough and a solid fuel stove are a more powerful firebox and the absence of a pass (smoke tooth) in the firebox part. The tooth retains hot gases under the cooking surface, which in a summer stove allows to reduce fuel consumption for cooking. It is not needed in the chimney, t.к. the excess heat will be used for heating.

Because the flap adds more resistance to the flow of flue gases, a grubka stove is a fitting addition to a more powerful furnace. Here, a reinforced draught chimney won’t help since the gases inside the panel will instantly expand and cool. They will successfully release their mechanical energy into the chimney after converting their heat energy. Said another way, the furnace and chimney in this stove with a panel function according to the pull-push principle; the furnace with a larger capacity is the "push" in this instance. This clarifies the unique specifications for roughneck firebox and stove fittings; for more information, see "Wood-fired roughnecks."

Different types of heating panels are used in buildings, depending on their intended use. The figure below shows heating panel to furnace schemes; the fuel portion is displayed in a conventional manner throughout.

Plans connecting furnaces and heating panels

1. Sequential stroke with short vertical ducts. The least material-intensive and the easiest to build. The resistance to gas flow is the highest. Compactness and thermal efficiency of the stove are average. The most frequently used scheme;
2. Sequential run with horizontal ducts. The mass dimensions of the furnace are the same as in the previous version. case, but it is much more difficult to build a panel with horizontal channels. Resistance to the current of gases approx. 1.5 times less. As a consequence – the thermal efficiency of the furnace is higher. It is possible to build a stove, t.е. the upper channel heats up not much;
3. Sequential course with long vertical channels. Heat efficiency as in the case of the panel with horizontal channels, technological complexity – as in the case of the panel with short vertical channels. Takes up the smallest area, but requires a lot of materials and a good foundation (see the following table). further) due to the high specific pressure on the support. Optimal variant for a house heating stove for 2-3 rooms, cf. next;
4. Parallel course. Highest thermal efficiency, lowest weight per unit of heat output. The space required and the technological complexity are the greatest. It is possible to use with a furnace of reduced capacity. Optimum for an extension to an existing stove without remodeling it.

Notably, staggered or series-parallel shields are also available. The lowest resistance to the gas flow is found in the most challenging, yet lightest, material. The only place to rough-in, centimeters further, to a heated attic house.

Special requirements

Let’s reiterate: the benefits of the rough-and-tumble quality, as well as the potential to build inside an existing home without requiring extensive construction work. However, it is difficult to install a more powerful furnace in a furnace that is generally the same size because of the excessive heat load, which will cause everything to break down very quickly. Unless there are particular needs for:

• Furnace foundation.
• masonry mortars.
• Methods of masonry construction of the stove.
• Selection and methods of installation of stove fittings.

Fig. shows the layout of the foundation beneath the pile. Before pouring, the crushed stone pillow is leveled to the horizon without sand backfill. pouring a 1:2 mixture of sand, cement, and M150 mortar. There is a 30–40 mm space between the flooring and the rubble foundation. Remember to provide support for the trimmed beams! It’s a common but disgusting error to leave their ends hanging. The foundation’s dimensions in the plan should at least extend 100–150 mm over the stove’s outline.

The stove-gruba’sfoundationarrangement

Note: Just as the first two rows of masonry in the stove structure, spaced a few centimeters apart, the brick bed on the foundation beneath the stove is laid with dressing in rows and in between rows.

Three different types of mortar are used to build a roughcasting house; for more information, see "Mortars and mortars." rice. below. The butte should only be installed on extremely moisture-resistant cement-sand mortar. The bedding on the foundation and the chimney is laid on lime mortar because it combines adequate heat and moisture resistance. Rough-grained sand from a ravine or mountain should be used for clay mortar. Typically, kiln clay is bought and is assured to be fat and, most importantly, pure. For masonry gruby, self-excavated clay that has been sanded to the necessary fatness is not very useful.

Masonry mortar compositions for the furnace-gruba

Kilns are used for rough masonry, and fireclay brick is suitable for the highest quality if poryadovku (see "The joint between the bricks and metal bricks" further) is provided. Red workman is a light red color (quite annealed), without spots overburning, skewing, and bloating. Bricks with dried molding are completely useless. The trace is followed in the masonry construction of the chimney. guidelines:

• If you are an inexperienced kiln mason, each row of masonry is first laid out on dry; any defects found trimming / capping bricks are eliminated.
• Each brick is soaked before laying on the mortar until the air bubbles stop releasing. Buchat all the bricks in the barrel indiscriminately not allowed!
• A 5 mm layer of mortar is applied to the bed and the stub of the brick to be laid.
• The brick laid smoothly with a slight inclination is laid and pushed to the previous brick, so that there are no air bubbles in the joint.
• The bricks are pressed down until the joint comes together to 3 mm; tapping is not allowed!
• Between fireclay and ordinary masonry initial joint 8-10 mm; after pressing – 6 mm.
• The joint between the bricks and metal embedded parts (see "The joint between the bricks and metal embedded parts"). further) – 10 mm.
• Excess mortar squeezed out of the joint is removed with a trowel (trowel).
• After removing the excess mortar, the recesses in the joints are filled with mortar by pushing it in without transverse movements, but not by troweling!

The following video lesson on masonry heating and cooking stoves is suitable for those who learn best visually:

Video: Laying a heating and cooking stove

Stove door installation gone wrong

The roughhouse’s grates and fittings are made of cast iron, and its doors and latches have mounting skirts and holes for diagonal wire whiskers. Hardware made of cast iron or steel that is welded and has lugs for straight whiskers (placed on the same side as the door). walls of the stove) is inappropriate in this instance. Put the door/slide on the right side of the stove, as indicated in Fig. 2, even though this is completely against stove regulations. For a planned 2.5-brick country Dutch oven that will be heated once or twice a season, perhaps, but not for the prickly.

In order to prevent them from moving, the whiskers (wire, galvanized 2-3 mm) must first be crimped with a twist. Place it at the appropriate angle (at least 12 mm from the far end of the ear to the inside of the masonry) without applying too much pressure at first. Shake the door or latch lightly and then tighten gently. Not vanished? Adequate. Secondly, the skirt must be securely wrapped in basalt fiber or asbestos cord before being reattached. You can view the videos below for more information about installation in the furnace fittings.

Video: Installing the door in the stove

Video: grates and stove

Examples of constructions

The design of a basic rough stove for a summer cottage or short-term residence is shown in Fig. below. The sparing use of fireclay bricks (allocated textured filling), which is generally hard to do without, and the niche above the hob are two unique features. It expedites cooking in the winter and prevents the stove from overheating the room when cooking if the weather is already warm enough.

Simple cottage stove-coil layout

A single-burner stove’s layout on the trace (fig. ) is similarly lightweight and compact, but it’s more intricate due to its combined channel system. This choice is more appropriate for a dacha or hunting lodge where people spend the weekends in the winter.

Design of a cooking and heating stove that is coarse for everyday use

Next, as seen in Fig., is the staging of the home’s cooking and heating systems with a two-pass system for winter and summer. Although this stove is highly intricate, it is sufficiently cost-effective for use in both the summer and the winter. A variant of a one-room house or dacha that is occupied on a permanent basis.

The way the cooking stove and heating system are arranged for the winter and summer seasons

Along the path. rice. – the design and blueprints for a heating stove; – a fireplace stove for a two to three-room home, with a glass furnace door. This oven is positioned in the partition in a two-room home, and in a three-room home, it is facing the living room from the front and the two rooms next to it from the back, with the partition between them located on the back side of the oven. Yes, 650 bricks isn’t much for a heating stove in a three-room house.

Design of a heating stove for a two to three-room home

Let’s look at the image now. below is a rough layout and diagram of a bed that is lying down: part of the cooking in the kitchen/hallway that leads to the restroom; lying in the living room. Even for a skilled stove builder, this construction is extremely complicated. In order to prevent overheating during warm weather, the cot is covered with a featherbed and t.ο. However, this means that the kitchen and hallway windows must remain open. The operation is not changed to summer mode.

The cooking and heating stove’s schematic and arrangement with a stove bed

And lastly, for a rough estimate of the highest pilotage, refer to the figure below, which shows the location of an additional panel with staggered channels for a home with a heated attic (see the inset on the right below). If the firebox door is made of glass, this stove can also be used as a fireplace. It is a two-way summer gate valve, designated ZLH on the drawings.

Designs of a two-story heating stove for a home with an attic that is heated

About chimneys

All fire safety requirements must be met by the chimney. All that needs to be mentioned is that a sandwich chimney works best for roughcasting and doesn’t require any additional capital construction work.

In conclusion

If this is your first stove (which is totally possible), take your time building it; first, model it on a table. Suddenly, you have a little extra cash, so you can purchase a set of scale plastic bricks and schemes for modeling stoves. No, you can also cut bricks from foam using a scale. Then, using strips of thick paper or thin cardboard and the selected scale, it is convenient to mimic the masonry’s seams.

Stove laying with your own hands schemes

Stovemen were highly respected and well-liked in the days when the only source of home heating was a stationary solid fuel stove. Brick stoves are still in demand even though there are many different units available today that can be used for individual heating arrangements and run on different fuels.

Using their hands to lay stoves schemes

These days, finding a stove maker that is truly competent is not an easy task. Furthermore, you can lay out a complete stove with your hands, so there’s no need to do this.

The main types of stoves

Learn about the characteristics of the current models of these units before moving on to the independent laying of the furnace. Stoves are available:

• heating. Designed exclusively for heating. Such ovens have an extremely simple design and are laid out in the shortest possible time and with the least effort compared to the designs of other types;
• heating and cooking. The most popular and in demand variant. Simultaneously heat the house and allow you to cook food;

Improved models of cooking and heating stoves are also available that have an oven or a built-in stove.

Arranging the Dutch oven by hand

Stoves and fireplaces fall under a different category. It’s a great choice for a contemporary private home. These designs look good and are fully capable of handling the tasks involved in heating the space. Both a modest country home and a lavish private villa would benefit from the interior addition of a well-planned and completed stove-fireplace.

These are the stoves that

Modern stove designs set them apart from one another not only by function but also by shape. Units with square and rectangular shapes are most frequently installed in private homes. However, you can set up a circular oven if you’d like. The particular choice should be chosen with consideration for both your preferences and the unique characteristics of the space.

The image displays the most basic brick oven for cooking and heating.

Of course, you can arrange the furnace yourself, and a variety of techniques will enable you to do so as quickly as possible. When performing this work, keep in mind that all stoves—regardless of their design, function, or other attributes—must adhere to the most recent fire safety laws.

In this article, we"ll guide you through building your own grubka (a type of heating and insulation system) for your home, providing clear and easy-to-follow schemes. Grubkas are efficient systems that help to keep your house warm while also saving on energy bills. By following our step-by-step instructions and diagrams, you"ll be able to create a grubka tailored to your home"s specific needs and layout. Whether you"re looking to improve the insulation of an existing space or planning for a new construction, this article will equip you with the knowledge and tools necessary to tackle the project confidently. From selecting the right materials to understanding how to implement them effectively, we"ll cover everything you need to know to make your home cozy and energy-efficient.

Choosing the place and type of foundation for the stove

Plan for building the stove’s foundation

Give careful thought to where the stove will be placed before you begin to build it. For instance, the unit’s heat output will increase significantly if it is positioned in the center of the space, warming the air around it and the room on all sides.

The most common option is to position the furnace against the wall, in which case cold air will continuously "walk" across the floor. You must thus come to your own conclusion in this regard.

Determine the firebox door’s installation location in the preliminary stages. Installing this component will ensure that fuel can be loaded into the stove as quickly and easily as possible in the future, preventing coal or wood debris from being dispersed throughout the house. The side of the kitchen or another seldom used room is typically where the fire door is located.

When complete, the brick stove will weigh a pretty impressive amount. An independent concrete foundation must be prepared for the device in order for it to stand as dependable and long as possible.

Features of the furnace design

The design of traditional brick kilns is rather straightforward. On the other hand, despite its seeming simplicity, it offers extremely high productivity and efficiency.

The chimney and fuel box make up the majority of the brick kiln’s body. In addition to having ovens and/or stoves, cooking stoves can also have a tank installed for water heating.

Russian stove scheme

The stove unit’s primary component is the fuel tank. Wood or another fuel used for heating is loaded into the firebox. The size of the fuel box is customizable. There are a number of significant considerations that should be made when choosing the right dimensions, including:

• type of fuel used. If you will be heating the stove with wood, make the fuelbox 50-100 cm high;
• required productivity;
• required volume.

Use refractory bricks to build a fuel stove. The thickness of the walls of the construction under consideration can not be less than half a brick.

Another essential component of any heating stove is the chimney. The purpose of the chimney is to remove flue gases that contain a variety of hazardous materials that are created while the furnace is operating.

Guidelines for the brick-built furnace chimney device

When designing the chimney, make an effort to consider every aspect so that there are as few bends and turns as possible. The chimney should ideally be entirely vertical. Bends of any kind will cause the draught to deteriorate and lessen the room’s heating efficiency.

The ash pan chamber is one of the key components of a brick kiln’s design. This compartment will hold the ash collection. Air is supplied to the fuel inside the device via the ash pan as well. The ash pan chamber, which has a door of its own, is situated beneath the grate. The ash pan’s standard height is three bricks.

What mortar to use for masonry?

The dependability and longevity of the finished stove are directly impacted by the caliber of the masonry mortar. A mortar made of sand and clay will be used to complete the masonry.

There is no complexity involved in mortar preparation. Take some clay, add some water, and let it soak. After passing the mixture through a sieve, mix it with the "clay milk." To get a sufficiently viscous and plastic solution, add some water at the end.

Recall that the strength and dependability of the furnace directly affect how well the masonry mortar is prepared. Your furnace should efficiently heat your house for many years to come if you do it right. The thermal unit is unlikely to be able to operate at its peak efficiency and last for very long if you choose to disregard the technology or cut corners on materials.

The stove’s mortar was laid with it.

The main stages and important features of laying the stove

It should take three to four weeks from the time the foundation is poured to the start of construction. The base will strengthen enough during this period to support the weight of the brick furnace. The performer must give the work they are considering their utmost responsibility and focus. Since errors can have irreversible effects, prepare yourself by starting the work ahead of time and allotting enough time to finish it.

Using your hands, make a brick stove

There are multiple steps involved in stove laying.

The initial action. Brick the first hood’s lower section and the ash pan. Use the previously discussed sand-clay mortar to create the masonry.

Phase two. Install the masonry ash pan door. The door can be fixed with galvanized wire.

Install the door for the ash pan into the masonry.

Phase three. Cover the chamber of the ash pan with a grate.

Place the grate over the chamber of the ash pan.

Step four. Put the firebox together. Line this compartment’s interior with fire bricks. Bricks should be laid "on the edge." Use specialized masonry mortar at this point. The preparation process is the same as for regular mortar, but fireproof clay is used in place of regular clay. Fireclay е. Using a steel plate and the well-known wire, secure the furnace chamber door.

Stage five. Proceed with standard masonry up until the twelfth row. Once you’ve reached this row, shut off the fire and distribute the burner tiles evenly. Cast iron is a requirement for this stove. A construction level can help you manage the levelness of the lay.

Step six. Arrange the first cap. It is installed on the stove’s left edge. The channel for the summer run is set up at this point.

Step seven. Assemble the stove and plan the cooking compartment’s walls. Arrange the previously mentioned lower hood.

Step eight. Put in a damper for the channel known as the summer run. The cooking compartment’s inner corner is where this latch is located.

Step nine. Masonry should continue until the 20th row. Once you get to this row, shut off the first hood and the cooking compartment. Make sure you leave the necessary number of openings in the solid masonry for the cooking compartment vents, the summer run, and the lifting channel. Bricks should be positioned on steel corners to increase the stove’s strength and dependability.

Step ten. Use the hinged fireplace doors to close the cooking compartment portal. The doors’ heat-resistant glass inserts are a better feature. With this solution, you can watch the flames and keep an eye on the fuel combustion process.

Step eleven. Put in sweep doors to make soot removal simple. Select the installation location that will be most convenient for you to reach.

Stage twelve. Assemble the hood’s walls nearly to the wall opening’s upper edge. Put a few rows of bricks over the top of the stove. Minwool should be used to bridge the space between the stovetop and the lintel. In addition to adding more thermal insulation, this will marginally improve heating efficiency.

Step Thirteen. Install a decorative sash around the unit’s upper perimeter.

Step fourteen. Install the chimney flue next. The chimney is better off made of brick. A structure like this will endure far longer than pipes made of asbestos or metal.

Ultimately, all that will be left to do is lay out the stove to the chimney’s end and, if desired, finish the stove’s exterior. Plastering is the easiest solution. The remainder were focused on their personal tastes and financial constraints.

As a result, although installing the stove is not an easy task, it is doable with your hands. It suffices to merely comprehend the technology and adhere to all instructions. Recall that the best materials should be used for the task. And tried-and-true stove designs will enable you to build a unit on your own that will satisfactorily heat your house for many years to come without any issues or complaints.

Video – Stove laying with your own hands schemes

A satisfying project for any homeowner looking to preserve fruits, vegetables, and other perishables year-round is building a root cellar, or "grubka," by hand. You can build an effective and useful storage area in your backyard by using easily accessible materials and basic schematics.

The location of the root cellar is one of the most important things to think about when building one. For best results, pick a location that is easily accessible, well-drained, and shielded from the sun. Furthermore, maintaining adequate insulation and ventilation will help control humidity and temperature, resulting in the perfect environment for food storage.

Simplicity is essential when it comes to root cellar design. The construction process, including excavation, framing, and sealing, is outlined in basic schematics. By assembling components like lumber, insulation, and concrete blocks, you can create a long-lasting, robust building.

To keep the temperature in the root cellar constant, proper insulation is necessary. Layering materials like fiberglass or foam board will help you to create a barrier that shields your stored items from temperature changes outside and stops heat transfer.

Ultimately, creating a DIY root cellar is a doable undertaking that can yield significant advantages for your home. You can build a sturdy and effective storage area that will help increase the shelf life of your produce and other perishables by using simple construction methods and schematics. You can reap the benefits of your labor for many years to come with careful planning and close attention to detail.

Video on the topic

Stove layout. Thin-walled heating panel (Gruba).

Successful experiment, cool stove turned out to be. Combined stove with your own hands.

Stove layout with a cooking stove. Heating panel or gruba.

Layout of the stove with a cooking stove. Gruba or heating panel.