Heating element for convector: needle, monolithic, TENS

An effective heating system is crucial for keeping our homes toasty and comfortable during the winter. Many households choose convector heaters because of their affordability and efficiency. On the other hand, the performance and energy efficiency of your convector can be greatly affected by selecting the appropriate heating element.

Convectors frequently use needle, monolithic, and TENS (Thin Enamel Nichrome Strip) heating elements, among other types. When making a choice, it’s critical to comprehend how each type differs from the others because each has pros and cons of its own.

The convector of a needle heating element is embedded with a number of tiny metal needles. These needles act as a quick and effective source of heat by heating up when electricity flows through them. A primary benefit of needle elements is their rapid response time, which enables the convector to attain the target temperature more quickly. Furthermore, compared to other types, needle elements are frequently more robust and damage-resistant.

Conversely, monolithic heating elements consist of a single, solid piece of ceramic or metal. This kind of element produces a more steady and uniform temperature output by dispersing heat more evenly throughout the convector. Homeowners searching for a low-maintenance heating solution frequently choose monolithic elements due to their longevity and dependability.

Thin enamel-coated nichrome wire strips are used in TENS heating elements, and they are arranged in a grid pattern inside the convector. These elements are efficient choices for heating larger spaces because they have good heat transfer qualities and heat up quickly. Because of their adaptability and capacity to offer both quick heating and accurate temperature control, TENS elements are frequently chosen.

In the end, the decision between needle, monolithic, and TENS heating elements is influenced by a number of variables, including the size of the area that needs to be heated, the preferred heating speed, and financial constraints. Homeowners can ensure their convector performs at its best while controlling energy costs by being aware of the distinctive qualities of each type and making an informed choice.

Types of electric heaters

Three different kinds of electric heating elements are used by manufacturing companies to produce modern electric convectors:

A prospective customer should become thoroughly acquainted with each of the aforementioned heater types prior to purchasing an electric convector, as each one has pros and cons of its own.

Stitch heaters

Other names for stitch heaters are needle heaters and ribbon heaters. This is a flat dielectric plate, or tape, that has an insulating lacquer coating and is sewn together with conductive thread. On both sides of the plate, thin loops of chrome-nickel wire are formed by electric current, which causes the plate to heat up rapidly to a high temperature and cool down quickly when it is turned off. Here, the heated thread comes into contact with air and may dry out as a result.

As an aside! Stitch heaters’ application area is severely limited because they are not protected from water splashing or dripping.

Needles heaters’ primary benefit is their affordability. Convectors created using them, however, have a number of noteworthy drawbacks, including:

  • low thermal inertia;
  • low coefficient of performance (efficiency);
  • insufficient degree of electrical protection (not higher than IP21), therefore they cannot be used in rooms with high humidity;
  • short-lived due to the fragility of the heaters themselves;
  • high fire hazard – dust getting on the heated coil causes sparks, which can lead to fire;
  • increased requirements for transportation.

The majority of band heaters on the domestic market are found in Chinese-made electric convectors (General and others).

Tube heaters

The conventional tubular electric heater (TEN) consists of a solid steel bulb filled with magnesium, ceramic, or quartz. Inside the bulb, a nichrome filament that receives heat from the electric current is also integrated.

Additionally, a diffuser (reflector) made of aluminum with many ribs that can vary in number, location, and configuration is attached to the top of the bulb body. The latter greatly expand the heating element’s surface area in contact with cold air, which raises the heating element’s heat output and promotes air convection. Because these TENs are totally sealed, the heated coil never comes into contact with the air, keeping it from drying out. Durability and unpretentiousness in operation are the hallmarks of tubular heaters.

As an aside! Convectors that are built using tubular electric heaters typically have an electrical safety level of IP24 (protection against water splashing in all directions), making them suitable for heating the air in humid rooms.

TENS units have certain drawbacks despite their many benefits that set them apart from stitch heaters. The principal ones are:

  • loose fitting of the reflector to the bulb, which leads to heat loss;
  • different coefficients of thermal expansion of the steel bulb and aluminum fins, contributing to their mechanical damage (cracking).

There are several countries in the world that organize the production of electric convectors with tubular heaters. The most well-known products are those made by Siemens (Germany), Ballu (China), Thermor (France), and other companies.

Monolithic heaters

Compared to band and tube heaters, their monolithic counterparts are completely free of these drawbacks. These designs incorporate the nichrome filament and dielectric filler into a single, fin-equipped aluminum housing.

Because every component in this design has the same coefficient of thermal expansion, microcracks won’t form during periodic temperature fluctuations. Furthermore, monolithic heater-equipped convectors operate quietly and with great durability. Additionally, they are distinguished by very little heat loss.

The comparatively high cost of monolithic structures and products manufactured from them is a major drawback. A device from the Electrolux 1000 series is thought to be one of the best examples of this type of electric convector; it comes with a contemporary monolithic X-shaped X-DUOS heater that has a capacity of 1 kW.

Heating elements: ceramic, infrared

Parts that are required to heat the appliances and their surroundings are found in a great number of household appliances. There are various heating elements, depending on the application and manufacturing material.

Classification of devices

A heating element is a component of a specific device’s mechanism that heats a material, an appliance, or the surrounding area. The layout of a basic boiler looks like this:

The following kinds of parts are offered:

  1. Open (Lukey);
  2. Closed (Galant), X-DUOS);
  3. Sealed (RTS – PTC, ENGL-1).

The most common material used in open heating micathermic elements (STICH) is nichrome. As portable boilers or heaters, for instance. Above the metal work surface, the nichrome wire is wound. On occasion, a manual heater is also utilized; it is simple to construct with your hands; a wire segment is fed through wooden supports and linked to the power source.

Every electrician used to have a sizable stockpile of wire skeins with a range of cross sections. It was possible to quickly determine how much and what kind of wire needed to be spun in order to reach a specific capacity thanks to straightforward calculations.

Picture: needed power and wire diameter

Open heaters, however, have numerous drawbacks:

  1. High fire hazard. If a little dust gets on the heated wire, a spark can occur and start a fire;
  2. High probability of short circuit. Some skillful people include from one socket several such heaters, which greatly overloads the network;
  3. Low efficiency. Such wire heating elements are considered extremely uneconomical.

These days, people hardly ever use the household boiling water heaters, even though they can be made in a matter of minutes.

The tubular heating element, or TEN, which is currently used in boilers, washing machines, and other appliances, took the place of these earlier heating methods. TEN is a closed tube used to hold a thermocouple or contact.

Heating elements come in two varieties: "wet" and "dry." Wet encountered liquid, thus it frequently experienced the negative effects of water on metal. It is protected from the dry ones by a unique surface called a wall. They take a little longer to heat up the water, but their service life is significantly longer.

"Wet" heaters need to be replaced annually on average.

Although they are not often used for heating, these appliances work wonders when it comes to heating water. A tube protects the nichrome coil, which is also the primary working component. It cannot be in contact with it as a result. Certain chemical compounds fill the empty space in the tube, making it tight and closed.

A temperature controller is now frequently included with the heating elements.

The TENS in sealed heaters is the same, but aside from two connections, they are totally sealed off from the outside world. They are employed in the heating of water, different surfaces, etc. The ceramic heating element heats up fast, maintains temperature well, and is safe.

Different types of heating elements are used for ovens, electric stoves, convectors, and soldering irons. Heating elements can also be categorized based on their area of use. Oven and stovetop surfaces are covered with flexible coils. They are able to preserve the integrity of the electric arc over a wide area. The same type of heating elements, albeit with different power parameters, are used in ovens, aerogrills, and incubators.

Stove heating element types include:

  1. Cast iron pancakes;
  2. High Light;
  3. Halogens.

The most basic stoves and ovens use cast iron heaters. They may be found in the lower or upper sections of the cabinet. A spiral of conductive alloys, including nickel, chromium, and occasionally silicon carbide heating elements (SCE), is located beneath the cast iron stove. This design causes the disk to heat up slowly and cool down slowly.

High Light is a band heating infrared element; it is frequently used as an electric convector (Double-U-Force) to heat a small room or an incubator at 12 volts. Wasteland home convectors, electric ovens, toasters, and toaster ovens can all be equipped with a ring band heater.

The majority of contemporary electric stoves use quartz and halogen heating elements. They are renowned for their quick heating and cooling, which guarantees a high temperature and the device’s security. Because high-temperature spirals heat up quickly and operate continuously until they are turned off, they are frequently compared to gas burners.

Additional components are frequently used to enhance the performance of heating devices. For muffle furnaces, this includes electric annealing heaters, and for boilers, it involves the use of specialized thermolayers. These thick-film "wraps" assist in maintaining a specific temperature balance even after the power is switched off. The air is not heated in order to create the thermo effect.

Repair and replacement

Electric water heaters, thermopots, and electric ovens frequently experience malfunctions with their flat and flexible heating elements. Although a professional should fix them, you can do some of the work yourself. High loads often cause industrial heaters to burn out, whereas limescale causes low-voltage carbon or carbon coil elements in boilers and washing machines to burn out.

Most of the time, you can just swap out the part for an identical one. For instance, a variety of products are provided to clients by numerous boiler manufacturing companies (Termex, Bosch, etc.).

However, there are situations when, for example, determining the voltage and resistor resistance is required to build a thermostat.

Assume that a device of some kind, such as a heater for plants, a mirror heater, or an automobile steering wheel heater, requires 20 watts of power to operate, with the heating element’s voltage being 12 volts. As it happens, the current will fall between 1.2 and 20/12.

As a result, 7 ohms will be the resistance (12*1,7). About 40 resistors are needed; one-watt resistors are preferred. To achieve the intended outcome, they should be connected in combination since their combined resistance should be 7 ohms.

You can use this computation to fix a small heater, automobile components, or a blow torch. However, what would you do if the boiler or washing machine’s heating element failed?

How to change the boiler’s heating element:

  1. First you need to find out where the heater is located. It can be located on the underside of the lid or on the side, depending on the design. This is described in detail in the user manual;
  2. You need to close the water in the boiler and if possible, drain it by simply opening the faucet (some brands make water heaters protected, t. е. They cannot be drained). Be prepared for this and install a container near you in advance to collect water;
  3. After unscrewing all the bolts near the cover, carefully remove it;
  4. There may be silicone gaskets or clamps under the bolts, be careful not to damage them;
  5. If the heating element is on the bottom, then it will be removed together with the lid. Sometimes this part is built into the body. You are interested in a needle thermocouple. Older boilers use a cartridge one, it is sort of inserted into the base of the unit.

It will be simple to remove the heating element from the water heater if it has a protective tube; however, if it is the "wet" type, it will need to be cleaned of scale and dirt first. Simply install everything in the opposite order and swap out the old part for the new one at this point. Using a glue gun, you can blow out the gaps if the silicone gaskets are missing.

Because the washing machine’s heating element has so many removable parts, it is more difficult to repair. It is important to use caution when disassembling the closed part because it is very close to the drum.

The washing machine must be upside down in order to be disassembled. Depending on the brand, there may be two or four bolts on the exterior. after removing the component with caution. It is crucial to avoid striking the air filter and the drum. It looks like a very basic heater that you would find in an old boiler. It needs to be changed.

Modern disk analogs are occasionally used, but they cannot be eliminated on their own.

Purchase replacement heating elements. is available for purchase at any electrical goods store; the cost is determined by the brand and technical specifications, which are best calculated in advance.


Electric convectors are no different from other home appliances in that they should all have protection class II, or double insulation on all conductive parts.

In addition, no modern convector can do without a safety unit that switches it off in case of overheating, which is necessary for elementary fire safety reasons. This is usually realized in the following way. In the upper part of the housing, near the ventilation grille, there is a temperature sensor that can open the contact and, consequently, cut off the power supply to the thermocouple. This occurs when the air inside the device is heated above, for example, 150 ° C (the threshold value of shutdown may be different for different manufacturers, this is due to the design features of the device and the use of certain materials). Thus, the heater is automatically switched off if something interferes with normal heat exchange, for example, foreign objects get on the ventilation grille or the convector is too tightly closed with curtains.

Apart from the overheating safeguard, the majority of contemporary convectors come with an anti-freeze feature. The convector turns on and keeps the room temperature at a minimum when the inlet temperature falls below 5-7 °C. This will prevent the water supply system and household electronics from "falling into disrepair" even during the winter.

Take note

When choosing an electric convector, first of all, it should be remembered that we are talking about a serious consumer of electricity. This problem is especially acute when such devices are used for main heating. For example, just to heat a small cottage with a total heated area of 200 m2 during peak load will require about 20 kW. This does not include household appliances, electronics and lighting. And for any object, be it a holiday village, an apartment building, an office center, a company, etc., the power supply is provided by the power supply company. п., "Power Supply Company" allocates a certain electric capacity. In this case, cables of the appropriate cross-section are laid at the construction stage. They are brought into the electric room, where the allocated power is divided between consumers – cottages, apartments, offices, workshops. And for each put its own circuit breaker, which stops the power in case of exceeding the load (for example, in modern new buildings for an apartment allocated 10-16 kW). So the total installed power of all electrical products and household appliances must not exceed the allocated power of the thermostat.If the electrical project does not fit within the established norms, it will have to coordinate the withdrawal of additional power (if it is even feasible), which will cost a tidy sum, measured in tens or even hundreds of thousands of rubles. The final bill will depend on the age of the house, the state of communications, the distance from the nearest free transformer and other local factors.

Which type of thermostat to choose – electronic or mechanical??

Convectors are equipped with two types of thermostats: mechanical and electronic. In the name of the thermostat lies the principle of temperature measurement. In the case of a mechanical thermostat, a capillary air thermostat is used to measure the temperature of the air in the room. The electronic thermostat uses a microcontroller and a thermistor to measure the temperature. For the end user this information is not so necessary, other differences are more important: the electronic thermostat is more accurate than the mechanical one (the measurement accuracy is 0,1-0,3C against 1-2C of the mechanical one) and the convector with electronic thermostat works silently. A peculiarity of convectors with mechanical thermostat is a characteristic "click" when the convector switches the heating on and off. However, convectors with "mechanics" are cheaper and, if I may say so, more "oaky". The accuracy of electronic thermostats can save an additional 5-7% of electricity.

Convector controls that use "mechanics" and "electronics" might not differ from one another. For adjusting the temperature, European manufacturers typically use a rotating handle or a moving slider in addition to a mode switch, if one is present.

A convector that has an LCD screen, a remote control, power switching, some "ionizers," and other "whistles and farts" is almost certainly made in China, according to 99 percent of consumers.

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How to choose an electric convector heating

Everything is dependent upon your financial situation and the device’s intended use. But if you consider the selection of a heater from a structural standpoint, you will see something like this:

  • It is better to choose a device with an aluminum housing;
  • Monolithic type heating element will give the most effective efficiency;
  • Convector type heaters with a thermostat will create maximum comfort in use;
  • Buy only well-known brands, firstly, you will get a long-term warranty, and secondly, a safe heater.

Calculator for calculating the required power of the electric heater

Which convector to choose

Regarding which heater is the best option, there is no clear cut answer. Despite all the clear benefits, every variety has drawbacks of its own. The element with the longest incandescent time, for instance, is the tubular one. It may produce squeaks and clicking noises when in operation due to the structure’s expansion. Conversely, the monolithic element’s exorbitant price turns off the majority of purchasers. Not everyone is prepared to pay more than necessary for a high level of protection and low heat loss.

Store consultants typically advise customers to purchase convectors that have a monolithic element or TENS.

The features of the heated room should be taken into consideration when choosing which convector is more efficient.

  1. If the room is not humid, and the speed of heating the air does not play a key role, it is best to use a conventional heating element.
  2. However, if it is necessary to maintain comfortable conditions in the room at all times, it will be more correct to give preference to a monolithic element. An effective convection system will allow you to save a little on electricity.
  3. You can also pay your attention to the models of the combined type, as an infrared heater with a convection function. This device combines heating by means of a heating element and an infrared element, which allows you to achieve rapid heating of the room with a small consumption of electrical energy.

Experts advise being mindful of more than just the heating element. Efficiency is also greatly influenced by the housing’s ergonomics, mobility, and maximum operating power. If you carefully examine the device’s technical specifications, you should have no trouble selecting the convector that is best for you.

One of the most widely used home appliances in the nation is the convection electric heater, or convector, which is primarily utilized as an extra source of heat in rooms for a variety of uses. Its affordability and straightforward design, which eliminates the need for an intermediary heat transfer link like oil radiators and heat fans, are the main reasons for its popularity. The heating element is the primary component of the converter design. This material goes into great detail about the various types of electric heaters, how they vary, their benefits and drawbacks, and how to check the heating element’s performance.

Type of heating element stich

One of the most widely used home appliances in the nation is the convection electric heater, or convector, which is primarily utilized as an extra source of heat in rooms for a variety of uses.

Its popularity stems from its straightforward design and comparatively low cost, which, in contrast to oil radiators and heat fans, results from the absence of an intermediary heat transfer link. The heating element is the primary component of the converter design.

This material goes into great detail about the various types of electric heaters, how they vary, their benefits and drawbacks, and how to check the TEN’s performance.

Design and operating principle of the convector

The room’s natural convection, or circulation, provides for the efficient operation of the electric heater. As previously indicated, the device’s primary component is a convector heating element housed in a metal casing, most commonly in the form of a rectangle.

An electric heating device works on the following principles. Through the holes in the lower portion of the casing, cold air enters the device. The holes on the front surface of the convector allow the heated air masses to rise upward and return to the room. The air descends once more as it gradually cools, and the cycle is repeated.

Crucial! Warm and cold air are constantly circulating, which quickly and effectively heats the space where the electric convector is mounted.

Prospective buyers may encounter convectors with both open and closed electric heating elements on the home market.

  1. Devices with open-type heaters are equipped with a mechanical temperature regulator and are characterized by low cost, ease of control and fast heating of the case. However, the degree of their electrical protection does not exceed IP21.
  2. Devices with closed-type heaters are more expensive, have a number of preset operating programs and additional options and are equipped with an electronic thermostat. They are characterized by low power consumption and high degree of electrical protection (IP24).

The features of the heated room should be taken into consideration when selecting an electric convector type.

Types of electric heaters

Three different kinds of electric heating elements are used by manufacturers to produce contemporary electric convectors:

A prospective customer should become thoroughly acquainted with each of the aforementioned heater types prior to purchasing an electric convector, as each has unique benefits and drawbacks.

In the world of home heating and insulation, choosing the right heating element for your convector is crucial. Whether it"s a needle, monolithic, or TENS (Thin Embedded Nickel Strip) element, each option comes with its own set of benefits and considerations. Needles are known for their efficient heat distribution and quick response time, making them ideal for rapid heating needs. Monolithic elements offer durability and longevity, ensuring consistent warmth over time. Meanwhile, TENS elements provide precise temperature control and energy efficiency, perfect for those seeking eco-friendly solutions. Understanding the differences between these heating elements can help you make an informed decision that suits your heating needs while optimizing energy consumption and comfort in your home.

Pros and cons of convector heaters

Since it is challenging to identify the precise indicators due to variations in the types of heating elements, housing shapes, and materials used in the product, all of the following features will be taken as general guidelines.


  • Sufficiently low cost compared to similar heaters;
  • Accessible and understandable installation for any consumer;
  • The heat output, expressed in efficiency, is at least 95 percent;
  • Very fast heating process of the heater;
  • Stylish design will decorate any interior furnishings in the room;
  • The devices have a very quiet operation, this allows you to place them close to the sleeping place;
  • Possibility of deep customization of room heating.

Negative sides

  • Inefficient use in large rooms. It is solved by installing several devices;
  • Over time, the efficiency of the equipment decreases, due to the burnout of filaments;
  • Some copies are able to burn the oxygen passing through them, which negatively affects the health of the people living there and increases the amount of dust in the room;
  • Increased energy consumption. It can be reduced by external insulation of walls, floors and ceilings.


The control unit, also known as a thermoregulator, is in charge of turning on and off the heating element and allowing you to choose the preferred temperature mode, all while preserving the temperature at a predetermined level. It makes this decision based on data from a unique sensor that is placed at the air flow inlet in the lower section of the housing.

Control devices are mechanical and electronic. The mechanical ones use a cylinder with a temperature-sensitive liquid connected to the regulator through a capillary, as it is done in Beta (Ensto), CNS (Stiebeil Eltron), Evidence Mecanique (Thermor) models. In this case, the accuracy of readings, according to different manufacturers, is within ±1-3 ° C. In electronic devices, the function of the temperature sensor is performed by a thermistor or a calibrated transistor, whose resistance changes with increasing/decreasing temperature. Such thermoregulators are equipped with convectors Beta E (Ensto), all Beha models; Evidence Electronique (Thermor), Unique (Siemens), Spot E-2 (Noirot), Viking CF (Nobo). Depending on the implemented scheme, electronic temperature controllers are analog and digital with a measurement error of ±0.1-0.5 and ±0.05-0.1 ° C, respectively. For humans, such a high accuracy of temperature maintenance is not essential (the body is simply unable to feel it). But it is very important for the heating element. In fact, the less it heats up idle and the smaller the temperature fluctuations between on and off, the longer it will last.

By the way, a thermoregulator is an optional feature that many manufacturers include with their convectors. That is to say, the same model is available with an electronic or mechanical thermostat, a timer, or a programmable device.

Convectors do not burn oxygen!

The nichrome filament, which is a part of heating elements of electric convectors, can glow up to 600-800 °C. However, as a result of heat losses in the dielectric backfill and due to intensive heat exchange, the temperature of the aluminum fins is significantly lower. Particles of organic origin, present in the air, burn at a temperature of 230 ° C and above. This results in a characteristic odor and a feeling of stuffiness, while the oxygen consumption is much less than that of a conventional candle. The electric convector has fewer potential hot spots for dust collection than, for example, oil radiators. Therefore, there is practically no odor from it.

Heating elements of tubular type

The quartz tube with steel is integrated with nichrome filament to form the tubular heater. Furthermore, the design incorporates magnesium backfill that is connected to aluminum fins. The ribs serve as a component for heat exchange.

The distribution and form of fin plates are typically unique to each company, but this has no bearing on how the fins work. Such an aluminum diffuser’s sophisticated design enables intense heat transfer from the heating element to the air masses, improving the efficiency of convection.

The majority of heaters that use tube-type heating elements are waterproof, meaning that bathrooms can be used to install them. Even so, mounting the device less than one meter from the water source is not advised.

And the power is enough?

Contemporary electric convectors are low-inertia, compact heaters that are highly efficient. It will typically take fifteen minutes for the room to get warm if the device’s power settings are set correctly. Manufacturers advise utilizing the most basic formula to avoid mistakes when selecting a convector: 100 W per 1 m² for off-season use or supplemental heating, and 150 W per 1 m² for primary heating. A reserve is included in the figures for peak loads during severe frosts. The computations are based on the assumption that the heat power produced and the electric power consumed are equal (energy conversion losses are negligible).

In the assortment of each manufacturer usually presented devices with a capacity of 250 W – 2 kW (in increments of 0,25-0,5 kW). There are relatively tall models – like panel radiators, as well as long and low baseboard models. Who needs them? It turns out that not only designers. When using electric convectors for the main heating, they are permanently mounted on the walls and necessarily under the windows, because it is through the window openings that the main heat losses occur. For effective heating it is desirable to cover at least 75% of the length of the sill (SNiP 2.04.05-91) and at the same time try to optimally select the appliance in terms of power, so as not to overload the power grid and in the end not to overpay for "overheating". And when the window is not standard, it can be difficult to do this. So the wide range of sizes is very convenient.

What convector to choose, what to pay attention to

Choose a heater that is monolithic, stich, or ten if you want to be aware of the device’s maintenance, energy consumption, and heat output from electrical elements. The manufacturer of a given product always specifies the equipment’s power, level of moisture protection, and whether or not it has sensors, timers, switches, regulators, or other devices in the instructions for use. The gadget can also have a child lock, tilt protection, humidifier, ionizer, and remote control added to its list of features.

Based on the application in relation to the primary or secondary heat source, the radiator’s power is determined. Therefore, 0.5 kW/h is sufficient for continuous convector use in a small bedroom and a 20 square meter living room. One meter will require 1.5 kWh, while two rooms will require a minimum of 3 kWh. The calculations are divided by roughly 1.7–2 for extra heating.

Diagnostics of heating elements for electric convectors

Convector heaters are generally quite straightforward devices with a limited number of internal assemblies. One or more heat-producing heating elements form the device’s foundation. The convector stops heating the room if they malfunction. The heater’s testing results are the only way to be certain that it is the heater that has failed.

Modern convectors typically have closed-type heaters installed. Their open plans are extremely uncommon. Closed TEN cannot be repaired; in the event that it breaks, it must be replaced. It is best to use the most basic multimeter (tester), turned on in the resistance measurement mode, to verify that it is operational.

Use the following method to determine the heating element’s resistance:

  • disconnect the power supply cable;
  • set the resistance measurement limit of 200 Ohm on the multimeter;
  • Apply the tester probes to the contacts of the heating element;
  • the readings on the multimeter display indicate that the heating element is in good working order.

If the resistance value measured is within a few tens of ohms, the heating element can be considered serviceable. If the display indicates "0" (short circuit) or "infinity" (break), it can be deduced that the heating element is faulty and needs to be changed.

Crucially! Convector heating elements are classified as non-repairable units. Anyone who knows how to handle even the most basic tools can replace them. Finding and choosing a heater model that meets your needs based on its technical specifications, overall dimensions, and connection size is crucial.

Therefore, you should first ascertain the kind of heating element being used before selecting a convector. Which room it can be used in for its intended purpose depends on this. Additionally, when using the equipment, adherence to the guidelines and instructions provided by the equipment manufacturer in the user manual is necessary. Since the electric heater cannot be fixed, this is required to extend its lifespan as much as possible.

Tubular heaters (TEN) with aluminum fins

Tubular electric heater (TEN) is a nichrome filament installed in a steel tube with quartz, ceramic or magnesium fillings. Aluminum fins are attached to the tube, which acts as an effective heat exchanger. As a rule, the configuration and arrangement of aluminum fin plates differs from one manufacturer to another, but the meaning does not change from this. The developed finning of this aluminum diffuser provides intensive heat transfer from the heater to the air and enhances convection. The temperature of such heaters is significantly lower than that of needle heaters, and they are also unpretentious and durable. Basically convectors with tubular heaters are made in splash-proof version (IP24) and allowed for installation in wet rooms at a distance of at least 60 cm from "open water" (bathtub, pool edge, etc.).

These types of heaters are more costly than needle-heated convectors, but less expensive than monolithic ones. These heaters, for instance, are fitted into Thermor or Atlantic convectors.

Heating Element Types
Convector Needle, Monolithic, TENS

The comfort and effectiveness of your home heating system can be greatly impacted by selecting the appropriate heating element for your convector. Every available option, such as needle, monolithic, and TENS elements, has pros and cons of its own.

Needle heating elements are perfect for areas that require quick heating adjustments because they have precise temperature control and quick response times. They are also appropriate for spaces with limited installation space or compact convectors due to their small size.

Conversely, monolithic heating elements ensure constant warmth throughout the room by dispersing heat evenly across the convector surface. They provide long-term dependability for efficiently heating your home because they are strong and less likely to break.

TENS heating elements provide comfort and energy efficiency through the use of thin film technology. They maximize heating performance and use less energy because they heat up quickly and disperse heat evenly. In addition, TENS elements typically operate more quietly than conventional heating techniques.

The decision between needle, monolithic, and TENS heating elements ultimately comes down to your personal preferences, financial situation, and heating requirements. For your convector, the best heating element should take into account things like noise level, durability, energy efficiency, and response time. You can maximize energy savings and guarantee the best possible warmth and comfort in your house by making an informed choice.

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Sergey Ivanov

I like to help people create comfort and comfort in their homes. I share my experience and knowledge in articles so that you can make the right choice of a heating and insulation system for your home.

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