Heated attic for year-round residence

Envision possessing a particularly comfortable area within your house that you can retreat to throughout the year. That’s exactly what a heated attic provides—a flexible space that can be turned into a cozy living area for year-round enjoyment. Making your attic into a heated space opens up a world of possibilities, whether your goals are to add to your living area, create a peaceful retreat, or host guests.

Considering their attic merely a forgotten part of the house or a place to store stuff, many homeowners frequently fail to see the full potential of this space. On the other hand, your attic can become one of the most livable and useful spaces in your house with the right insulation and heating. It is possible to transform your attic into a useful space that improves your quality of life by making investments in heating systems and insulation that are specifically designed for its particular features.

The flexibility that a heated attic provides is one of its main advantages. Heating your attic enables you to utilize the space all year round, regardless of the weather outside, as opposed to restricting its use to specific periods of the year because of severe temperatures. Your heated attic can offer a comfortable space for work, leisure, or entertainment on a hot summer day or a cold winter evening.

Additionally, turning your attic into a heated living area can raise the value of your house significantly. It not only expands the usable square footage but also improves the property’s overall appearance and usability. The adaptability of a heated attic is frequently appreciated by potential buyers, who view it as a desirable feature that distinguishes your house from others on the market.

But it’s crucial to approach the insulation and heating of your attic with thoughtful thought and preparation. Maintaining a constant temperature in the room and ensuring energy efficiency depend heavily on proper insulation. Additionally, for maximum comfort and performance, choosing the appropriate heating system that fits the dimensions and design of your attic is essential.

Benefits	Challenges
Extra living space	Proper insulation needed

Attic heating modern ways

The bath and country house attic can be heated in a few different ways. The connection to the cottage’s shared boiler room is the first of these. The coolant, which is water heated in the boiler room, is circulated via a pipeline installed in the attic and radiators installed. The following drawbacks of a water attic heating system should be considered when determining the optimal method of room heating:

• Increases the load on the boiler: if initially it was not designed to heat the attic, then the temperature in other rooms will fall, and fuel consumption – will increase.
• The attic is remote from the boiler: the coolant reaches the attic with a reduced temperature, having already given the heat to other rooms. This reduces the efficiency of attic heating, or leads to the need to install a large number of radiators.

The second method – "warm floor".
Under the floor covering over the entire area of the floor is laid heating cable, connected to the power grid. The temperature is regulated by means of controllers, it is possible to program the work of the attic heating system: it will automatically turn on at the right time, or when the temperature drops to a set minimum. But "warm floors" have their disadvantages. Their installation requires serious time and financial costs: it will be necessary to completely re-lay the floors, select fire-safe materials with a high coefficient of heat return, for example, natural stone. To work requires a permanent connection to the power grid, consumes a lot of electricity, in the heating season bills from power supply companies sharply increase. This is an expensive solution, difficult to implement and maintain.Therefore, owners of country cottages recognize that An economical way to heat the attic is an autonomous system. The principle of operation of air heating of the attic in the house is as follows: the heater heats the air coming into it and blows it into the room with the help of a fan. Heated air masses circulate, evenly giving heat to the floor and walls. Positive temperature is quickly established in the attic. Additionally, excess moisture is removed from the air, rising from the whole house and accumulating in the attic. Building materials are not threatened by damping or freezing at a sharp drop in temperature. The service life of the roof insulation is increased. To ensure that air heating does not put a strain on the power grid, solar-powered devices are selected.

Advantages of using solar energy for attic heating

1. Autonomy.
   Solar heating equipment does not require connection to the power grid or the use of other fuels.
2. Easy installation.
   The products are installed on the walls or on the roof. Installation is simple and quick, no complicated project documentation is required.
3. Efficient operation.
   The devices maintain a positive attic temperature throughout the fall and winter period.

Residential buildings in the USA, Canada, Russia, Europe, and the Commonwealth of Independent States use solar attic heating.

Making your attic a heated space for year-round occupancy is a wise choice to optimize the comfort and usefulness of your house. You can add an extra living space to your attic that improves your lifestyle and increases the value of your property by properly insulating and heating it. The options are endless, ranging from using it as a recreational space to turning it into a comfortable bedroom or home office. Regardless of the outside weather, you can take advantage of your attic’s benefits all year long if you have efficient insulation and heating systems in place. This investment lowers heating expenses and minimizes heat loss, which not only enhances your living space but also advances energy efficiency.

Autonomous heating

An autonomous attic heating system makes it possible to keep the required temperature all year long.

Included in such a system are the following essential components:

• heating boiler;
• chimney;
• ducts;
• pipes;
• batteries;
• circulation pump.

The core of self-contained attic heating is the boiler. It can run on electricity, gas, liquid or solid fuel, or a combination of the above, at the owner’s request. Prior to starting attic heating, it is important to ascertain the boiler’s location, the kind of fuel it uses, and how to remove combustion products from the space.

There are two possible ways that the coolant circulates inside the heating circuit: naturally and artificially. Modern boiler systems typically have circulation pumps added to them, making them energy-dependent. Gravity systems do, however, have several major drawbacks, including the need to accommodate slopes, the requirement for large cross-section pipes, and the inability to control coolant temperature.

It’s crucial to accurately calculate the boiler capacity based on the room’s area when installing the attic heating system on your own. Given that the space is insulated and the ceiling height is not higher than three meters, the standard power value per ten square meters is one kW.

Thus, it makes sense to choose a low-power boiler for the attic area in order to save fuel.

Air exchange in the living attic

The natural ventilation system in the house is set up so that the kitchen, bathrooms, and living room are where exhaust is located and the side of the house is where fresh air enters the house. This will effectively remove all moisture and odors from the utility rooms and prevent them from entering the living areas.

It is essential for natural ventilation to function properly to: a) supply air through airers or loose joinery; and b) leave slits under all doors.

Since modern double-glazed windows are initially airtight, they do not allow inflow when closed. You need to install labyrinth ventilating dampers in the top of the frame or adjust the window sash handle to the slotted ventilation position in order for fresh air to enter. These dampers are beneficial because they remove moisture from the incoming air.

Micro-ventilation (through loosely closed sashes) through roof windows is more efficient than through conventional vertical windows. Moreover, if you open a center-axis skylight, the incoming and outgoing streams will not mix at all. You get something like a coaxial channel.

It is not sufficient to simply open windows to address the ventilation problem in a home with an attic. The house will lose a lot of heat if the air exchange is not optimally controlled.

Air inlets must be installed in windowsless rooms, or they must be connected to at least two ventilated rooms. Doors with a sizable vent at the bottom covered by a grille should be installed if this is not feasible.

Utility rooms must be equipped with exhaust ducts. Hoods may be located on the ceiling or at the top of the wall. The exhaust hood in a bathroom or shower should be above the areas that get the most moisture. Exhaust vents are required above the sink in shared bathrooms.

The roof is where exhaust ducts should be routed. The ventilation ducts should be insulated (you can purchase sandwich ducts that are already assembled). Since the air exiting insulated ducts almost never cools, they offer superior draught control.

Half of the attic’s volume is thought to be exchanged by air on average every hour. If the exhaust ducts have a cross-section of 10×10 cm, this requirement will be satisfied. Experts think that channels should ideally be rounded.

The exhaust duct needs to be raised above the roof slope by at least 100 cm. Put on a rain hood over the pipe.

In our nation, forced ventilation in private homes is still uncommon. When a unique layout prevents efficient natural air exchange, a system like this one may be employed. The forced ventilation system operates by means of fans that are integrated into the ventilation ducts. It is possible to avoid raising the hood too high above the ridge thanks to fans. Basically, anyplace on the roof can be used for venting. But windows must be avoided, since the exhaust air can return to the rooms through them.

If fans are integrated into the hoods, it is possible to force the natural ventilation system, though it is still the simplest. It is possible to turn the latter on and off as needed. It will be nearly similar to forced ventilation if they have automatic controls that respond to an increase in humidity.

If your home is equipped with a recuperator, or heat exchanger, where warm outgoing air warms incoming cold air, forced ventilation can help you save heat. Temperature inversion occurs in the summer, allowing for less intensive air conditioning to save money.

There are many ways, which one to choose

Before designing a heating system, make sure the attic is adequately insulated. Then, there are various courses of action available:

• If the house already has a working heating system, it is possible to mount additional pipes and batteries to it. In this case, if the pump is weak, it will need to be replaced with a more powerful one to cope with the increased load;
• With air heating of the house to the main line, additional air ducts can be connected to the main line, which are taken out to the attic;
• Another way is the good old heating with electric appliances;
• And the most attractive option for many is to install a fireplace. It has good efficiency and safety features, but you will always have to ensure the availability of solid fuel, which adds extra hassle.

However, installing an autonomous heating system will be the best course of action. How is an attic heated? This calls for the heating system itself, which is made up of radiators, piping, pumping equipment, combustion products and air supply, and a heating boiler. The boiler is powered by the central gas supply if the home is connected to it. The boiler can run on electricity, liquid fuel, or solid fuel if there isn’t any.

Insulation

Among the easiest and most affordable methods. Styrofoam boards are typically utilized as the material for installing a layer of thermal insulation from the interior. Because of how stiff the samples are, their fixing is unique. The fact that wood naturally shrinks must be considered. This primarily pertains to the rafters in the attic. In order to prevent additional distortion of the thermal insulation layer, the boards are fastened with a 5 mm gap. Assembly foam is used to seal the joints between them, which is the most practical and efficient method.

Based on the discussions in the relevant forums, it appears that adequate attic insulation can eliminate the need for any additional heating. Unless there is extreme freezing. It’s also not true.

It is ideal to control the attic’s humidity when using this insulation technique. Mold and fungus grow on polystyrene foam at higher values, and they eventually spread to the wall and ceiling lining.

Minwats are less frequently used to insulate attics. The primary cause is the requirement for high-quality surface waterproofing because every product in this category has a hygroscopic nature. They therefore take in liquids.

Foam made of polyurethane. It is an insulating spray. When used with a skilled approach, its efficiency is maximized. Challenges in that it’s essential to buy the right tools or invite experts who bring their own. And this – extra expenses. One more drawback is that it is not very maintainable. Replaceable boards (mats) are relatively easy to replace; however, polyurethane, which is glued to the base, is much more difficult.

Things to think about. Selecting the ideal thickness of insulation material is one of the trickiest problems. First off, the attic’s usable area is decreased by this layer and the cladding. Second, the dew point position is a factor that not many people consider. Inadequate computation of the insulator’s parameters may cause moisture to condense in the space. This led to ongoing moisture in the attic and all the associated "delights."

Types of heating the attic of the sauna

• Connection to a common system. In this case, the boiler and pump will need a larger capacity. If the heating was not designed at the construction stage, the equipment will have to be replaced.
• Installation of a fireplace. From the construction of a classic structure will have to be abandoned because of its heaviness. Optimal options – electric models or fireplace inserts.
• Warm floor" equipment. Such a system can work on infrared, water or electric heating. Installed at the stage of construction or major renovation. One of the most functional heating methods, because in this case the room is heated evenly around the entire perimeter, and the warm air rises from the bottom to the top.
• Autonomous heating. This method is most popular if the heating is planned to be done in an already built attic. It is also used when heating the bathhouse with a traditional stove. It assumes completely separate heating of the attic room.

Attic finishing

Internal projects The first step in attic finishing is to use materials to close the rafters, which will serve as the foundation for applying decorating materials. Wood, gypsum board, gypsum fiberboard, fiberboard, or particleboard can all be used as rafter linings.

Plasterboard works well if you want to finish the attic walls quickly. It is reasonably priced and relatively simple to install. It is screwed either directly to the rafter structure in one or two layers, or to the steel (wooden) frame.

Special water-emulsion paints are available that are odorless, dry quickly, do not burn, and can be safely cleaned with a variety of cleaning solutions.

If wallpaper is going to be used for decoration, you should pick your pattern carefully or, in general, stick to options without patterns. The truth is that the image may be distorted due to the attic’s beveled surface and corners. Should you wish to apply paste to the ceiling as well, professionals suggest beginning with horizontal sections, progressing to sloping areas, and concluding with triangular areas. Using latex-based glue for this project will be convenient because it takes no longer than 30 minutes to set.

Warm floor

4.1. Water

It’s not a bad idea to heat the attic if the boiler capacity permits. Plastic pipes won’t put a heavy burden on the ceiling. Not a bad option for an underlay that is small in both height and size.

It begs the question: what about the screed? It is also required. A professional will be able to tell you which technology you can live without.

Learn more about the features, costs, and features of the most widely used underfloor heating pipes here.

4.2. Electric

There are many options available here, including cables, mats, and films-IC. Individual preference is determined while accounting for the unique characteristics of the attic.

The provides specifics on the benefits and drawbacks of various schemes.

Insulation

Styrofoam. By using this material, you can save a significant amount of money and create excellent thermal insulation. Usually, this is carried out internally. A 5-millimeter space is left between each piece of foam board. Construction foam is inserted into the gaps that have formed.

This technological process is intended to account for the roof’s natural shrinkage, which happens as a result of gravity, allowing closely spaced boards to start piling on top of one another. A complete guarantee against the occurrence of cold bridges is provided by carefully constructed laying using assembly foam. However, there are drawbacks to using foam. It is not advised to use it in areas with high humidity because it is easily colonized by mold and other fungi.

Comparative qualities of roofing insulators.

Minwool. This material stands out for its low heat conductivity, strong fire resistance, moisture resistance, and excellent sound insulation. Insulation technology is nearly identical to that of the. But there’s a little detail. It is important to add more insulating layers to minwata in order to increase its resistance to moisture.

Foam made of polyurethane. Insulation has the same qualities as minwool after application and is very similar to assembly foam. In addition, it doesn’t require extra layers because of its strong vapor barrier and water resistance. To apply, you’ll need a mask, tight clothing that covers every part of the body, and a specialized sprayer. Since it only takes 500 m² per day to complete, you can insulate the attic fairly quickly.

Attic heating with a fireplace

Now, how can the attic be heated? Options aren’t always abundantly available. Therefore, installing an independent heating system will be costly if it’s a summer home, and electric heaters are inefficient. Setting up a fireplace in the attic would be the wisest course of action in this situation.

When choosing to build a fireplace, one must consider the weight of the appliance and whether the installation site’s floor will need to be reinforced. The degree of heating will have a significant impact on its weight because a larger furnace will be needed to produce it more frequently, which will increase its weight. If the heating is intense, you can lower the floor pressure by building a firebox out of metal pipes. A lightweight fireplace with a lightweight chimney design is thought to be ideal for the attic.

Keep in mind that installing an electric fireplace is preferable because it is safer, simpler to install, and much easier to use. Any type of fireplace will do, whether it runs on coal or logs. It should, nevertheless, be built so that it is integrated with the overall ventilation system. The best trees to use for heating are hornbeam, beech, and oak because they produce the most heat energy. Wood waste-based briquettes are also efficient.

The problem of flue gas extraction

Any fuel type that is burned produces combustion products that need to be expelled from the room. Combustion gases in conventional boilers are released through a chimney, which naturally creates a draft. The chimney works on a straightforward principle: hotter, lighter gases have a tendency to rise and obey expulsive forces. The draft is better the higher the temperature of the gases. It is not guaranteed that the heater will operate normally if there is not enough draught in the chimney. Modern boilers are equipped with an automatic shut-off mechanism to protect against a lack of draft.

There are two varieties of gas boilers: open and closed furnace models. Products of combustion are always extinguished by a natural draft at the beginning. Another name for these boilers is atmospheric boilers. In the latter instance, always forced. t.н. turbo boilers are these.

Chimney The minimum length for a chimney on an atmospheric gas boiler is 4 meters, and the minimum length for a chimney on a liquid fuel boiler is 5 meters. Since there is typically not more than 2 meters between the boiler outlet and the roof surface, it can be challenging to meet these requirements when the boiler is located in the attic. It turns out that for atmospheric gas boilers, the chimney height above the roof slope must be at least 2 meters, and a chimney this length may not always blend in with the cottage’s architectural style.

Boilers with closed chamber combustion boilers do not have the disadvantages of atmospheric boilers. They do not depend on the draught in the chimney, weather conditions and wind direction. Combustion products in them are discharged through a coaxial pipe, which also serves to supply fresh air to the furnace. The exhaust gases are discharged due to the overpressure created by the built-in fan. The specificity of this solution allows the use of not only vertical, but also horizontal chimneys, and along their entire length. The only restriction is that they cannot be longer than 5 meters. The coaxial pipe of a boiler with a closed combustion chamber is most often led through the wall and ends with a special lug on the outer side. If necessary, flue gases can also be discharged through the roof. Special ceramic or steel chimneys are designed for this purpose. As a rule, it is a pipe in a pipe, where the inner channel discharges gases, and the outer channel takes in air.

Convection and condensing are used in gas boilers. Convection: these atmospheric conditions with an open furnace have already been discussed. Condensing boilers are made to remove residual heat from combustion products and have a closed furnace. Because the temperature in these boilers is significantly lower than what would create a natural draught in the atmospheric chimney, gases are forced out of the boiler.

Two things happen when the horizontal coaxial pipe is led through the wall:

• the outlet height from the ground is at least 2.5 m;
• minimum shortest distance to the nearest window – 0,5 m.

A boiler that has both an open and a closed combustion chamber installed in the attic needs to have adequate ventilation. Even though closed combustion chambers are totally sealed off from the room, depressurization emergencies are still possible.

The boiler room needs to have continuous ventilation, with the inlet opening measuring at least 200 cm² and its lower edge no higher than 30 cm from the floor. The air from the outside or from nearby rooms with natural ventilation must enter through this opening. The supply and exhaust ventilation openings are constructed in the same space.

If the air inlet is located near a room that has natural ventilation, care should be taken to ensure that there is enough inflow, which can be achieved by making sure that door and window frames are tightly sealed. Air vents on sealed double-glazed windows need to be operational.

In light of this summary, let us draw the following conclusions. Installing a wall-mounted gas boiler with a closed firebox that runs in a closed heating system in the attic is the most advantageous option. It is very space-efficient, simple to install, doesn’t put any weight on the ceiling, and offers a high degree of safety.

Installation rules for the water pump

The pump is installed correctly and safely in the following order:

• Enter the water pipe into the bathhouse.
• Connect an intermediate buffer tank in the form of a hydraulic accumulator tank. It is a kind of water tower in the system.
• Install a special check valve at the inlet to the tank. It is necessary to prevent the water from flowing into the well. Some pumps are already equipped with a valve, so no additional installation is required.
• At the outlet of the tank we fix the pressure gauge. With its help it will be possible to control the pressure.
• Attach an automatic air inlet/outlet valve near the pressure gauge.

The depth of immersion has an impact on the water pipe’s pressure. The pressure will be roughly 6 bar if it is up to 50 meters and 16 bar if it is up to 230 meters.

Floor heating

The idea behind this system is the upward movement of warm air. You can make the attic floor very useful in this way! The floor space experiences heating as a result of the components of heat transfer being distributed evenly. These could be pipes carrying hot water or electrical wires.

Installing cables can be done on any kind of flooring. If the floor is made of wood, a grid with a cable laid above it is hung, and a layer of thermal insulation is sandwiched between the lags. On top, a covering is placed. One viable option for the attic room is cable heating.

Warm flooring installed in the attic space

Attic water heating is not as commonly used. This is as a result of placing a large weight on the ceiling. The floor needs to be concrete in order to support the weight of the entire heating system. Here, the water supply comes from the boiler. The most common application for this system is autonomous heating.

Lastly, we would like to draw your attention to the following educational video, which will fully explain the workings and finer points of attic heating:

Owners of attics can thus select a suitable method of heat maintenance, adding to the feeling of coziness and comfort.

Electric appliances

Using outdated electrical appliances is not cost-effective due to their high energy consumption, which is expensive. You can cut expenses with contemporary electric convectors. Their installation is simple; all that is required is to locate the device and connect it to the power source. Energy savings are achieved because the convector does not run nonstop.

An electric convector mounted on the wall for your attic

The owner determines the desired temperature for the heated air. The convector is turned off until the values drop when the device’s sensors detect that the temperature has reached this point. It should be noted, though, that more than one of these devices might be required for attic heating, which would add to the wiring’s load and raise expenses.

Safety of the heating system

When installing a boiler in the attic, the heating system must necessarily be a closed system. Let me remind you that in an open system circulation of the coolant is carried out naturally by reducing the density of the heated liquid. That is why all heating appliances used in an open heating system should be above the level of the boiler. It is tried to be placed at the lowest point of the system. If the boiler is installed in the attic or on a floor, the system must be closed. The heat carrier in it circulates with the help of a pump, not naturally. Therefore, the point of location of the heat source in closed systems does not matter. In addition, closed systems allow the use of smaller diameter pipes, as well as radiators with high hydraulic resistance.

Specifics of installation of radiators in the attic above the bathhouse

Set up the appliances as follows:

1. Install a pipe for heat distribution at the boiler outlet. The most durable and high-quality copper pipes are considered to be. However, they are characterized by high cost. Therefore, plastic and metal-plastic elements are more popular recently. They are lightweight and resistant to corrosion, but can gradually deform under the influence of high temperatures.
2. Fix the thermostat (automatic thermostat) to the pipe. It is necessary for temperature control.
3. Connecting radiators to the pipes.

Keep in mind that the attic radiator installation should be done so that warm air rises and passes close to the window. In order to blow out the glass and stop condensation, this is required.

Author: editorial staff at TutKnow.ru

Warm floor installation

When the temperature difference between the upper and lower parts of a room is no more than 2-3 ℃, the application of a floor heating system can provide the most comfortable conditions for human beings. These days, there are a wide variety of heating elements that can be installed under wood flooring, tiles, or artificial stone.

A self-sufficient heating source, the electric "warm floor" can heat a room to such a degree that recharging the batteries in the attic is not necessary. It can be installed over any kind of flooring. In this instance, heat loss is minimized by using cable or film heating elements to evenly heat the space. These pieces of equipment typically have a 50-year lifespan.

Before putting in the "warm floor," place a heat-insulating material in the spaces between the lags. Then, place a grid to hold the heating elements in place. Aluminum foil is used to insulate the holes that are cut in the lagging where the cable will pass through. The finish coating is applied following the installation of the heating cable.

Installing a boiler that will heat the coolant is required for the warm floor in a home with an attic to be represented by a water circuit in the heating system. Polymer pipes can be used in this situation because they are long-lasting, easily installed, and able to tolerate the coolant’s temperature.

It is important to note that these systems are typically only utilized for the purpose of heating private homes with attics that have concrete flooring. The reality is that the installation of a water-warm floor implies an extra 250–300 kg/m2 load on the floor slabs. On the other hand, if the project calls for attic heating, the water circuit is installed over the coarse screed and then mortar is added again.

A finish coat and vapor barrier membrane are applied to the concrete once it has dried completely. A hot water test run can be done 20 days after the concrete has been poured.

Another method of creating a water heating floor is to bring in a metal plate with troughs for installing polymer pipes. In this instance, there’s no need to pour concrete screed over the plate—the substrate and finish coating can be applied directly on top of it. The room receives an even distribution of heat from the hot water pipes. This option is typically utilized as a backup source of heat.

Attic heating

Attic heating can be done in different ways. First of all, it is possible to connect the traditional water heating attic с . In this case, the attic room simply must be taken into account in the scheme of pipe distribution, as well as specialists should be carried out the necessary calculations, taking into account the water supply to the attic. Otherwise, there will be a pressure imbalance, which can disrupt the entire heating system of the attic and the whole house. There is nothing new in bringing water heating to the attic, and the description of the organization of the water heating system in the country house we have repeatedly given in past issues. But it makes sense to consider the specifics of the location of the radiators themselves on the attic floor.

First off, since the outer walls of the house are the coldest, experts advise placing the radiators in the attic on those walls rather than the inner ones. Placing it directly under the windows is advised. In this instance, the radiator will ensure that warm air is circulated throughout the attic while also producing a heat curtain in the areas of greatest heat loss in addition to direct heating.

Remember that the height of the knee wall—that is, the wall that the roof structure rests on—determines whether or not radiators can be installed beneath the windows. In case the minimum height is 80 cm, installing panel radiators is advised.

Convector-type radiators are a good alternative since they operate on the natural air exchange principle, which states that cold air enters from below, heats up, and then exits the radiator through the upper grid. In attics where the knee wall must be at least halfway up, convectors work very well. They are seven centimeters deep or deeper.

Radiators can, of course, also be mounted on interior walls, but experts estimate that doing so will lower their overall efficiency by roughly 10% and result in little cold spots close to the windows (even with a well-designed and installed heating system).

Radiators are typically supplied from the side, but some models currently on the market have multiple connections to the hot water distribution system, including the bottom, left, right, and side. These connections are made to the thermo-valve, which controls the water flow into the radiator.

Lastly, keep in mind that a radiator is now considered an interior component. Favor, the current models let you account for the particulars of this room’s layout, which includes sloping surfaces. For instance, certain models highlight the roof’s geometry and are specifically made for walls that slope. The industrial radiator design is an additional choice. Its curved shape allows it to be wall-mounted or angular. Additionally, there is a radiator model that resembles a freestanding heating column and can be freely installed.

Lastly, you can use the floor heating system if you don’t want to bother bringing the heating system to the attic (especially if the attic is built after the main house is finished).

Experts claim that the advancement of construction technologies in modern times allows for the quick construction of attics, even those that are converted from non-residential spaces. The most crucial thing is to know exactly what will be needed for the attic and how it will eventually look. In theory, it will take anywhere from two weeks to a month to come to pass.

Text: Trufanov, Denis

43 Mansion, March 2012

Attic heating

Let’s start by addressing the initial question: why is attic heating a separate topic of discussion? Indeed, installing a separate heating circuit in the attic is essential to improve system dependability and efficiency as it is a room situated on the second or third floor. The attic is not included in the boiler output calculation in the typical ratio of 1000 W/ 10 m², but rather 500–700 W/ 10 m². Because of the sloping building envelope, the attic’s volume is lowered, requiring less power from the heating equipment.

In order to have a separate source of heat as well as a separate heating circuit, some experts advise heating the attic. Here, a two-circuit boiler is used as both the primary and backup source to heat the coolant and water for the attic.

Attic heating can also be solved with the help of a modern fireplace, which will also become an interior detail. Attic rooms are usually well insulated and it is possible to heat them to a normal temperature quite quickly, especially with a fireplace. However, we are not talking about heavy classical fireplaces, which can weigh up to 500 kg, but about lightweight fireplace inserts. They are able to heat an attic up to 50-70 m². You don"t have to keep tossing in firewood all the time. Fireplace inserts have a closed firebox with adjustable air supply, so that the wood burns slowly, giving most of the heat to the room. Their efficiency is up to 80%.

Bedroom installations of fireplace inserts are safe and don’t have to worry about fire hazards or carbon monoxide leaks. They can put in several hours of labor on a single load of wood. Usually, this is sufficient to put off worrying until the next morning. After a few trials, the quantity of wood, the stoking time, and the flame regulation will be determined. When the main boiler is operating, which heats the lower floor, the temperature in the attic is unlikely to drop below 18 °C if you do not flood the fireplace at night.

The Bulerian stove is a fireplace substitute. Its design is unique, the flame is visible, albeit small, and most importantly, this furnace generates a lot of heat without the need for regular firewood laying.

Autonomous heating of the attic with a heating circuit may be necessary if there are several rooms there, and the area of the house exceeds 200-250 m². A separate boiler and heating circuit will allow you to do without a circulation pump, because the liquid does not need to be fed upstairs. Natural circulation of the coolant will take place due to the pipe slope of 3-5°. Separation of heating circuits allows you to get rid of the riser pipe. True, you will have to lead to the second floor gas, but the pipe can be laid outside the house and lead it to the place of installation of the wall-mounted boiler. It is better to use gas boilers with a closed furnace – then it is easier to solve the problem of flue gas removal. The wall-mounted boiler should be located in a part of the attic where the height to the ceiling is at least 2.2 meters.

Finally, attic heating can also be electric. If we are talking about one bedroom with an area of 15-20 m², one convector or oil radiator with a power of about 1500 W is enough. As long as the outside temperature does not fall below -5…-7°C, you can also heat with an air conditioner, which is about 35-40% cheaper than directly with electricity. The only disadvantage of such heating is noise. Although the noise is insignificant, the comfort of sleeping is clearly reduced. But it is not recommended to use heat fans for attic heating. They make louder noise than an air conditioner, but consume much more electricity and dry the air.

Finally, a few remarks regarding the subtleties surrounding the placement of convectors and heating radiators. Installed beneath the windows in standard rooms. This is intentional: heat from radiators rises and circulates around window panes, preventing condensation from forming on them. In the attic, the same procedure ought to be followed. It is only possible to place the windows a specific distance from the attic wall; is it not possible to place a radiator in the center of the space? Installing it on the wall is necessary, but it must be done so that the heat rises along the sloping ceiling and through the dormer window.

Possible options for heating the attic room

When a building project starts with a room under the roof, it makes the rest of the organization easier. But more often than not, the attic area in a prefabricated building needs to be reequipped. This suggests a large number of extra robots to lay all the required communications and choose the best heating technique:

• connection to the general heating system;
• Creation of autonomous heating;
• installation of a floor heating system;
• building a fireplace.

Regardless of the option you select, you should carefully plan the heating system, considering the building’s features, the quantity and cost of materials required. Adopting a methodical approach like this will enable you to accurately ascertain the positioning of the essential apparatus, considering the optimal arrangement of pipes and radiators. Specialist services are occasionally needed to guarantee the proper and safe operation of heating systems, but with the right tools and knowledge, anyone can accomplish this task themselves with ease.

Although experts are occasionally needed to guarantee the proper and safe operation of the heating system, you can easily accomplish this task yourself if you have the necessary tools and know-how.

Connection to a common heating system

If the building already has a planned heating system, installing more powerful boilers and pumps—of which the store "ALFATEP" offers a large selection—as well as more radiators and pipe work may be necessary to maintain enough heat under the roof. The piping can be concealed in the floor if the floor slabs are sturdy and built correctly. Auxiliary ductwork has to be maintained when using air heating.

Stand-alone heating

A very effective, although somewhat costly method, is the installation of an autonomous boiler unit, due to which a comfortable temperature regime in the room under the roof is ensured all year round. This option is more often used where there is no possibility to connect to the main heat pipe or when using stoves. The organization will require a pump, boiler, air ducts for injection and removal of gases. The good thing about this method is that the payback of costs is fast, and as a fuel can be used various types of wood, coal, light oil products and gas. Such efficient and productive solutions will be Kiturami liquid fuel boilers and Plusterm solid fuel units. The capacity of the necessary equipment is determined by the area, and with all the calculations and detailed data will help to determine the specialists "ALFATEP".

Forced and natural circulation are the two methods used to distribute temperature. The first approach uses less energy and is more effective than the second, which calls for the installation of pumps and extra expenses.

Installation of underfloor heating

An efficient and contemporary form of floor heating is the "warm floor." When setting up a complex like this, the air rises and is dispersed uniformly throughout. This solution’s design makes use of either water or electric pipes. Due to the substantial weight of the system, this method’s drawback is that it cannot be installed in homes without concrete floors.

Heating by stove and fireplace

An attic fireplace can serve as both a dependable source of high temperature and a beautiful ornament for the interior of the attic. However, it is imperative to confirm the strength of the ceilings or pre-strengthen the location before installation. Lightweight fire bricks can be used to lessen the weight. A major drawback of the fireplace is the substantial risk of fire. To lessen the risk of fire, it is essential to choose non-combustible materials with extreme caution and to construct sturdy chimneys.

It is possible to use an electric fireplace, which is safer and easier to use. Here, it’s important to account for wasteful energy expenditures, which can be minimized by installing convectors equipped with unique temperature sensors.

Autonomous heating

The process entails building a system specifically intended for attic heating. This option works well in attic conditions, particularly if the first floor is heated by a furnace or if connecting to the house’s main heating system is not possible.

A boiler that runs on any fuel that is available takes center stage in this kind of heating system. The system’s other components include pipelines, required fittings, pumping equipment, the air supply system, and the air supply system flue gas discharge.

It looks great to have a heating boiler in the attic.

Selecting the kind of circulation is crucial. An advantage is that if it’s natural, it’s likely not a pump that uses energy.

However, there are also a number of drawbacks to this option, such as larger pipeline diameters, the need to strictly adhere to gradients, and some management challenges.

The most practical way to ensure the best possible heat distribution in the attic is to use a two-pipe system with a forced circulation pump.

Radiator installation

They are part of the shared heating system. Nothing in particular is particularly difficult, in theory. However, there are a few subtleties to be mindful of.

• Is the boiler capacity enough not to work at the limit of possibilities at additional load in the form of attic?? Otherwise, the heater will not last long. And replacing it with a new unit is not a pleasant prospect either. First of all, such equipment is expensive. Secondly, there will be a question of what to do with a second-hand boiler.
• Most likely, it will be necessary to install another pump or purchase a more powerful one. Same thing – where to put the old one, which is in working condition? And the problem with the pumping device will have to be solved, because the attic is not only an increase in the length of the route, but also a rise of the heat carrier to a height of.

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Installation of a fireplace for attic heating

Please be aware that there are some challenges and quirks involved in setting up a fireplace. First things first, if a fireplace was not included in the house’s design, the floor needs to be strengthened.

The weight of a brick fireplace will actually be quite substantial, and during heating, fuel weight will be added to it as well. In this sense, it is best to stick with an electric appliance for the attic or go with a lightweight fireplace with lightweight pipes. It is important to remember that an electric fireplace is the safest and most convenient to operate.

What type of boiler can be installed in the attic

Theoretically, in the attic you can install both gas and solid fuel boilers, but it will be much more difficult and inconvenient to service the latter on the floor. For most single-family cottages, a gas boiler with a capacity of about 30 kW is suitable. It does not necessarily need to be installed in a special room – a boiler room. There are hinged boilers, which are usually mounted on the kitchen wall. In this case, the wall must be able to withstand the load of a boiler, and sometimes a boiler with a boiler. However, technically it is solvable, even if the wall is framed. Floor-standing gas boilers are more powerful, oversized. They are used for heating medium and large cottages, where there is room for a separate boiler room. We are talking about cottages of small sizes, for the heating of which is quite enough power of floor models.

It is possible to install a gas boiler on any floor of the house, including the attic. Simultaneously, liquefied gas boilers can be installed in the attic, second story, or first floor, but not in the basement. This restriction is a result of fire safety regulations and liquefied gas usage guidelines. Because liquefied gas is heavier than air, it will gather at the lowest point in the event of a leak.

Not every room may be suitable for installing a gas boiler. The ceiling height in it should be at least 2.2 m, and the cubic capacity is not less than 8 m³. The installation of liquid-fuel boilers is subject to the same requirements as for natural gas boilers. Plus, when installing a liquid-fuel boiler on the upper floors, the floor in them must be waterproofed, and thresholds – have a height of at least 4 cm. In this case, the waterproofing must be 10 cm above the walls. However, planning to install a liquid-fuel boiler on the floors, you should not forget about the smell of diesel fuel, which in one way or another will be present in the room. Accordingly, if it is a residential premises, then from the installation of a liquid-fuel boiler in it is better to refuse to install it. In addition, the operation of the boiler is accompanied by the sound of blown air, which becomes especially audible at night, when other sources of noise are silenced.

Boilers powered by solid fuel. Solid fuel boilers are the preferred option when the house is not gasified. They are better than gas floor models in terms of size. However, the space needed for storing the fuel in such boilers is what really matters, not their size. Coal, wood, pellets, or briquettes must be carried up stairs if a solid fuel boiler is installed on the floor. Since these boilers typically only have one circuit, it is necessary to place another boiler next to them, which will take up extra space.

All solid fuel boilers should be placed equally away from heated spaces, no matter how high they are situated. Usually, a different room next to the one where the boiler is installed is set aside for fuel storage. It is not feasible to meet the latter requirement when installing a boiler in the attic because hundreds of pounds of fuel must be carried up the stairs and then the ashes must be removed. But before centralized heating emerged, these devices were used as heaters for a considerable amount of time in multi-story homes. But necessity was the only issue; comfort was not at issue.

The location of the room where a solid fuel boiler can be installed should have a passageway leading past the residential buildings. They will be shielded from debris by this. Solid fuel boilers that are installed on the floor can weigh several hundred kilograms, and only a small portion of the base is used.

It is always necessary to consider the ceiling’s load-bearing capacity when planning the installation of a solid fuel boiler on the floor!

Attic design with a fireplace in a country house

In the thirteenth century, Russia imported the idea of a "fireplace" from Europe. It was made primarily of stone and clay, and it had an open hearth with a straight pipe on three sides. Over time, fireplaces were recognized as a characteristic of mansions and estates. It’s hard to picture a country home without a fireplace these days, but hearths have recently come back into style. These days, it serves as both a focal point and a status symbol, drawing the attention of friends, family, and visitors. A fireplace room is a designated space for a fireplace.

These days, fireplaces are typically used to decorate living rooms and add coziness and comfort rather than for heating purposes. They give the house a unique, peaceful atmosphere. This shift in the intended use of fireplaces gave architects and designers the freedom to create designs that were both aesthetically pleasing and manageable enough for the majority of do-it-yourself artisans to construct.

Fireplaces are the simplest stoves with an open firebox in the form of a thread. They heat the room exclusively with radiant heat energy. Heat transfer is 10-20%, the rest of the heat goes into the chimney. That is why fireplaces in cold areas of the country cannot serve as heating devices. Fireplaces always have wide, but not deep fireplaces, and the upper and side walls should have a collapse or widening towards the room. This design allows more heat to be reflected. Fireplaces are freestanding, built into a brick wall, at least two bricks thick, or attached to it. Due to the fact that fireplaces well ventilate the room, they are most often arranged in smoking rooms, studies, halls. They emit heat only during heating and at that very irregularly. The air is heated best in front of the firebox, and very little on the sides.

Flue gas drafts from fireplaces are not very strong. For this reason, some fireplaces have hoods or shafts installed, where smoke is first collected before gradually escaping the shaft through a pipe to the outside. A damper or ram (rotary damper) must always be used to seal the chimney of a non-operational fireplace. As a result, the room doesn’t cool down rapidly. More heat is released from the fuel stove the smoother the interior walls are. The side and back walls are lined with stainless or bronze steel sheets to boost the heat output. The heat output increases with the cleanliness of the sheets.

You are seriously mistaken if you believe that you have enough space on the first floor of the country house layout and do not require the second floor or attic. You can fit everything in the attic, including bedrooms and a greenhouse, since it has an abundance of space.

By combining a hallway and a spacious bedroom in our project, we are able to create a 36 m² room with a fireplace. This allows you to host guests and enjoy long winter evenings spent by the fire.

In the picture a high-tech fireplace made of iron and glass, so not a lot of weight. But if you plan to install a fireplace straight away, you will need to reinforce the first floor ceiling. I will not talk about buying expensive floor slabs for transportation and installation by machinery. But I think everyone can do it, in the front under the ceiling to install a formwork well reinforced and monolithically pour the ceiling concrete. That"s when you can make a fireplace even in the style of Art Nouveau. modern), or classic from brick, or even in Rustic style from solid natural stone. The chimney of the fireplace can be removed separately or connected to the main chimney with a hog.

You can set up a tiny space as an office. And not just for work, as everyone has hobbies of their own; even stamp collectors who are philatelists require a space of their own.

Further -

Choosing a boiler for heating the attic of the bathhouse

1. Gas. They are connected to natural gas mains. They can also work on liquefied cylinder fuel.
2. Liquid fuel. Such devices mainly work on diesel fuel.
3. Solid fuel. For their work, coal, coke, wood are used.
4. Electric. Such devices are the easiest to operate, environmentally friendly and do not require additional chimney equipment.
5. Universal. The most functional are boilers operating on all the main types of fuel. They have two chambers: one – solid fuel, the second – for liquid fuel and gas. In this case, the device is equipped with a special heating element.

You can greatly improve your home’s comfort and usefulness by converting your attic into a heated space that you can use all year long. You can add more living space, increase energy efficiency, and save money on heating by insulating and heating the attic.

The extra living space that a heated attic offers is one of its main advantages. You can maximize every square foot of your home by converting your attic into a guest bedroom, home office, or comfortable retreat.

Better energy efficiency can also result from a heated attic. As a result of preventing heat loss through the roof, proper insulation and heating eventually lower energy bills and put less stress on your HVAC system.

The potential increase in property value is another benefit of having a heated attic. Your home will appeal to more buyers and have a higher resale value if you add usable square footage.

A heated attic also provides flexible climate control. It is possible to keep your attic living space at a comfortable temperature all year round, providing occupants with a pleasant environment regardless of the weather—hot summer days or chilly winter nights.

In summary, converting your attic into a heated living area for the entire year is a wise investment with lots of advantages. With a heated attic, homeowners can benefit from increased living space, improved energy efficiency, and increased property value in addition to increased versatility, comfort, and cost savings.

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